Hey All, I looked for my answer elsewhere on this board but couldn't find the answer.
I am trying to set my Xoom up at work with a Bluetooth Keyboard/Mouse and output the screen to my monitor. To simulate my current work environment. The monitor I have only has VGA or DVI inputs. The cable I have is Micro HDMI - HDMI. So I bought an HDMI - DVI converter. When I output to the monitor, the monitor resolution will not match the Xoom so I don't get the entire screen. I have to scroll up or down to get the entire screen. I verified that the monitor supports 1280 x 800 but for some reason when I plug the Xoom in it goes to 1280 x 720 (720P?). I am guessing somehow I need the monitor to be 1280x800 so it matches the Xoom? I don't see a manual configuration on the monitor to change that. It seems to auto-ajust depending on what is plugged in. So I guess my question is; Is the issue with the HDMI-DVI converter or is the issue the monitor? This is very problematic because I need to Remote Desktop into servers and/or workstations as a proof of concept.
The Xoom will chop off the bottom 80 pixels to get 1280x720 (native 720p resolution)
Bauxite said:
The Xoom will chop off the bottom 80 pixels to get 1280x720 (native 720p resolution)
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I understand that (I assume the bottom 80 pixels are the task bar and such for android). That isn't quiet the issue. I think it is something to do with Pocketcloud application that I am using to RDP. When I set my PC resolution to 1280 x 720 and VNC into my machine the resolution is just fine (setting Pocketcloud to "Automatic Resolution". Doing the same for RDP it defaults to 1280x756 for some reason).
i want to say that 1280*800 and 1280*720 is similar with our eyes. so i think u don't need to care about such a litte gap.
Hi all,
Did anyone succeed already to make the Moverio BT-200 be monitor for a Windows 8 PC using Miracast?
This is what I tried already. Apologies for not adding the weblinks, but the forum rules won't allow.
1) The problem is that the BT-200 has a qHD resolution of 960 x 540 which is not supported by Windows 8. Therefore, I set the DownScaling bit to 1 in the registry. (Start Regedit, find all occurrences of Display1_DownScalingSupported and set the value(s) to 1).
2) I then started Miracast on Windows 8: go to right bottom corner, in the menu select "Devices" / select "Project" / click the dimmed "Add a wireless display".
3) On the BT-200 start a "Moverio mirror" session. It takes some synchronization effort to get the two devices see each other and get connected (have some patience while trying).
In the end I got the two connected, but I only get a black screen on the BT-200. When I try to configure the modes (right click on the desktop / choose "Screen Resolution / click "Advanced settings" / "Adapter" tab / "List all modes" button), the only mode shown is 1280 by 720 at 60 Hz.
Any way how I can fool the modes into a 960 x 540 configuration? Even better: how can I set up the Miracast connection as primary screen at startup?
Oh, and yes, I do have an Epson Wireless Mirroring Adapter, but it's not showing me the proper graphics either. for that reason I tried making the direct Miracast connection built-in into Windows 8.
Any pointer greatly appreciated.
Kind regards.
Hi,
I don't have any of these devices yet. But I am considering purchasing them. Just for screencasting what the user is seeing. I understand that it probably cant show the "augmented view". But, does the mirroring adapter sink function work ? Can I atleast see whatever is being cast to the user on a big screen using this adapter ?
Thanks.
aaaku said:
Hi,
I don't have any of these devices yet. But I am considering purchasing them. Just for screencasting what the user is seeing. I understand that it probably cant show the "augmented view". But, does the mirroring adapter sink function work ? Can I atleast see whatever is being cast to the user on a big screen using this adapter ?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi aaaku,
Yes, the mirroring adapter that is sold with the BT-200 works pretty well, but it's a clumsy device that very much limits the useability of the BT-200. While the BT-200 is battery operated, the Wireless Mirroring Adapter needs an adapter. Connecting it to a power bank works, but it uses quite some energy. Moreover the double interface (device to Mirroring Adapter, and then the Miracast connection between the Adapter and the BT-200) takes quite some time to set up properly. If you lose connection on the go, it's a guessing work where you lost the image or where a cable got disconnected. All-in-all it's not that smooth as you would like it (for me it turned out a showstopper even), and that's the reason why I wanted to Miracast from a Raspberry Pi directly to the BT-200.
As stated higher another issue is the not-quite-standard 960 x 540 resolution of the BT-200. Yes, it's possible to connect a Windows PC to the Wireless Mirroring Adapter, and then display the image on the BT-200. The BT-200 will even show a very clear image even. Since 960 x 540 is not recognized by Windows (or Linux, tried that too) it will display at a higher resolution, and the Mirroring Adapter will do the 960 x 540 translation. Read: some resolution is lost. It e.g. makes selecting menus and doing configurations under Windows 8 rather difficult as it's pretty hard to read the menus. For image viewing it works well, though. The image is bright and clear, and the display does what it promises.
Hi there. I have the Nvidia Shield TV Pro and have been having trouble finding the right receiver.
First I purchased a Sony STRDH550 5.2 Channel 4K AV Receiver, and found out that it cannot handle 4K upscaling (which the Nvidia Shield TV does according to Sony) Technically it worked, but what would happen is the screen goes black then will show the input on tv. Almost like someone unplugs the HDMI and then reconnects. Best way I have thought of naming this is an HDMI Blink. It happens numerous (10 to 15 times) per day. So according to Sony this receiver was only 4K passthrough capable, which actually didn't even work, I had to connect shield directly to TV and use ARC for sound.
Second, I purchased an Onkyo Thank you-NR636 7.2 Ch -- which is advertised as 4K passthrough and 4K upscale capable. I still have the HDMI blink, but now it is not as often (2-3 times) per day.
The TV I'm using is a Vizio M50-C1 and is 4K HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2.
It has 4 30Hz HDMI ports and 1 60Hz HDMI port.
The only way I can get ULTRA 4K to play from Netflix is to connect it to the 60Hz port.
The other 30Hz ports are labeled 4K, and when connected will play with audio/video but will not broadcast in 4K. I do not understand this, so if anyone could shed some light that would be great. (I've tried every troubleshooting step I could think of) ie. unplugging all cables and plugging them back in sequence. After connection unplugging the power on the Shield TV and re plug. (Same with receiver and TV) I've tried other sources on the receiver and tried every HDMI port/input.
So I'm thinking of returning this Onkyo Receiver and purchasing a better/more expensive one. I would appreciate anyones feedback on their experience with the Nvidia Shield TV and 4K Receiver/TV.
Has anyone been able to get full 60Hz 4K and 720/1080 Upscaling from Receiver to TV to operate without any problems?
Are there any Receivers you could recommend to me that can handle this properly? Thanks for your help.
I cant answer your question directly as I haven't used 4k receivers, but have you considered that the HDMI cable could be faulty?
Unfortunately I already replaced both the HDMI cables with brand new gold plated HDMI 2.0 4K cables.
I might be able to shed some light.
Firstly it doesn't sound like your HDMI cable. There's actually no such thing as a HDMI 2.0 cable. It's the devices that are HDMI 2.0, and will work with any high speed HDMI cable.
Always plug a 4K device into a 60hz HDMI if possible. That way if any of the apps, or even the home screen want to run at 50hz or 60hz you won't experience a problem. Obviously if it's plugged into the 30hz port, the picture will disappear when the device outputs anything above 30hz.
You don't actually want your AVR to upscale your picture. Your 4K TV will do it automatically, and TV's generally do a better job than AVR's.
As for the HDMI blink, I'm not entirely sure (I've not actually plugged my shield into my 4K TV yet) it could be when the system switches resolutions, eg 4K to 1080p. The screen needs a little time to process the new source. My TV does that when my PC is hooked up, and I switch between a 4K desktop environment and a 1080p game.
If it's any help my AVR has no problem with any 4K material I've thrown at it. I use a Pioneer VSX 930.
The Shield TV, like all modern Nvidia devices, has a built in upscaler. No need for an external one and in fact, extra processing is likely to degrade gaming experience.
Using ARC is actually a good solution although that has the disadvantage of requiring the TV to be on just to listen to music.
martyn3000 said:
I might be able to shed some light.
Firstly it doesn't sound like your HDMI cable. There's actually no such thing as a HDMI 2.0 cable. It's the devices that are HDMI 2.0, and will work with any high speed HDMI cable.
Always plug a 4K device into a 60hz HDMI if possible. That way if any of the apps, or even the home screen want to run at 50hz or 60hz you won't experience a problem. Obviously if it's plugged into the 30hz port, the picture will disappear when the device outputs anything above 30hz.
You don't actually want your AVR to upscale your picture. Your 4K TV will do it automatically, and TV's generally do a better job than AVR's.
As for the HDMI blink, I'm not entirely sure (I've not actually plugged my shield into my 4K TV yet) it could be when the system switches resolutions, eg 4K to 1080p. The screen needs a little time to process the new source. My TV does that when my PC is hooked up, and I switch between a 4K desktop environment and a 1080p game.
If it's any help my AVR has no problem with any 4K material I've thrown at it. I use a Pioneer VSX 930.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for the information. It's actually really helpful. Those were all things I was wondering but not sure. Another question for you; I primarily use the shield remote and not the controller. If I have the shield connected to the receiver with pass through, and I try to adjust the volume with the shield remote it does not work. It says this app is set for surround sound please use the tv remote to adjust the volume. Is this normal? On my previous receiver that didn't happen. I could adjust the volume with the shield remote. Any thoughts?
NiHaoMike said:
The Shield TV, like all modern Nvidia devices, has a built in upscaler. No need for an external one and in fact, extra processing is likely to degrade gaming experience.
Using ARC is actually a good solution although that has the disadvantage of requiring the TV to be on just to listen to music.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The arc solution does work. I get 4K video etc. but it still has the HDMI blink when playing non 4K content. The only solution so far I have found us to use the 30hz input on the TV, which eliminates the HDMI blink. Then when I way to watch 4K content, switch it back to the 60hz port.
I haven't tried changing the Nvidia HDMI settings to use the (less than 60hz) option. I think it's 27hz or something like that.
Does the TV work fine with another 4K source like a PC? You might also want to try a shorter and/or different brand of HDMI cable.
I have t tried another source. I'm not even sure my PC does 4K. Would I need a 4K graphics card? I will definitive try a different cable. I had previously used a gold plated cable that was a few years old, and that's when I noticed the HDMI blink. So I purchased two new ones from Amazon. I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, but would like to reassure if anyone knows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
those should work, but if you are looking for a great AV receiver to use with this, I just bought a yamaha 2050, and everything works great!
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-A2050-9-2-Channel-MusicCast-Bluetooth/dp/B00YMN6E7O
mikie00mike said:
Thank you for the information. It's actually really helpful. Those were all things I was wondering but not sure. Another question for you; I primarily use the shield remote and not the controller. If I have the shield connected to the receiver with pass through, and I try to adjust the volume with the shield remote it does not work. It says this app is set for surround sound please use the tv remote to adjust the volume. Is this normal? On my previous receiver that didn't happen. I could adjust the volume with the shield remote. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDMI control is a fickle beast. I find it works with some devices and not others. It could just be the combination of Shield and AVR you currently have.
I wouldn't be changing your AVR primarily on it's ability to function with your Shield though.
mikie00mike said:
I have t tried another source. I'm not even sure my PC does 4K. Would I need a 4K graphics card? I will definitive try a different cable. I had previously used a gold plated cable that was a few years old, and that's when I noticed the HDMI blink. So I purchased two new ones from Amazon. I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, but would like to reassure if anyone knows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a 650 or above GPU (Kepler), it supports 4K output.
I have just overcome some 4k UHD issues with my Shield TV which are similar to the ones you described.
The main problem is HDCP 2.2....
This is what I found out.
Some time last year the HDCP standards were changed to require any 4K 60hz display to only accept a 4K 60hz UHD signal if it was wrapped in HDCP 2.2. Put simply - this means if any device in the connectivity chain is not HDCP 2.2 compatable you will not get a 4K 60hz UHD picture on your display.
For me this was a problem because my HDMI 4K UHD switch was not HDCP 2.2, and my LG 55EG960v refused the non-hdcp2.2 signal, so the shield TV would auto re-connect @ 1080p beacuse the connectivity chain was incompatible....
4K UHD Netflix requires HDCP 2.2, which is why it will only connect/work on the single HDMI input on your TV rated for 4k 60hz hdcp2.2...
The only way to guarantee a working 4K 60hz UHD signal is to ensure all your equipment is HDCP2.2 certified, or do some clever duplex routing.
Unitl this year HDCP2.2 equipment at reasonable prices was very scarce, but LIGAWO is a german manufactuer who seems to have just released a whole range of HDCP2.2 routers/switches/splitters etc (at reasonable consumer level prices).... I am sure there will be many more suppliers soon.
The rule of thumb I would use is - Unless the specification clearly states the device/equipment is HDCP2.2 compatable - don't go near it.....
I really, really hate DRM....
PS: It sounds like may not need to replace your expensive AV reciever, and what you want to achieve could be done through duplex routing. Happy to have a PM discussion if that would help. I currently run 5 consoles, 1 STB, 1Shield TV, 1 PC, and Chromecast audio, all with a Yamaha DSP Soundbar/Reciever (which is only HDMI 1.4 compatable), into 1 TV, and still can get 4k UHD 60hz + 7.1 HD audio.... So it can be done without replacing your AV reciever.
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
MintyTrebor said:
I have just overcome some 4k UHD issues with my Shield TV which are similar to the ones you described.
The main problem is HDCP 2.2....
This is what I found out.
Some time last year the HDCP standards were changed to require any 4K 60hz display to only accept a 4K 60hz UHD signal if it was wrapped in HDCP 2.2. Put simply - this means if any device in the connectivity chain is not HDCP 2.2 compatable you will not get a 4K 60hz UHD picture on your display.
For me this was a problem because my HDMI 4K UHD switch was not HDCP 2.2, and my LG 55EG960v refused the non-hdcp2.2 signal, so the shield TV would auto re-connect @ 1080p beacuse the connectivity chain was incompatible....
4K UHD Netflix requires HDCP 2.2, which is why it will only connect/work on the single HDMI input on your TV rated for 4k 60hz hdcp2.2...
The only way to guarantee a working 4K 60hz UHD signal is to ensure all your equipment is HDCP2.2 certified, or do some clever duplex routing.
Unitl this year HDCP2.2 equipment at reasonable prices was very scarce, but LIGAWO is a german manufactuer who seems to have just released a whole range of HDCP2.2 routers/switches/splitters etc (at reasonable consumer level prices).... I am sure there will be many more suppliers soon.
The rule of thumb I would use is - Unless the specification clearly states the device/equipment is HDCP2.2 compatable - don't go near it.....
I really, really hate DRM....
PS: It sounds like may not need to replace your expensive AV reciever, and what you want to achieve could be done through duplex routing. Happy to have a PM discussion if that would help. I currently run 5 consoles, 1 STB, 1Shield TV, 1 PC, and Chromecast audio, all with a Yamaha DSP Soundbar/Reciever (which is only HDMI 1.4 compatable), into 1 TV, and still can get 4k UHD 60hz + 7.1 HD audio.... So it can be done without replacing your AV reciever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does this mean 650 or above GPU is for the receiver or media player? When you say 650 does that handle 4K passthrough, as well as full 4K upscaling from 480/720/1080p content?
NiHaoMike said:
If you have a 650 or above GPU (Kepler), it supports 4K output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the PC you're using as a source, to rule out the Shield as the problem. And yes, any Kepler or newer GPU (including the one built into the Shield) will upscale all the way to 4K, although the smaller ones won't be able to handle the most advanced algorithms. But unless you're a hardcore videophile, you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference between how well a high end GPU upscales as opposed to how well a smaller GPU upscales. Not surprising given that image scaling is just one of the most fundamental parts of 3D rendering.
mikie00mike said:
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I pm'd you some stuff.
Minty or Mike may I get a copy also please?
Minty I PMd you
Thanks!
mikie00mike said:
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thruster999 said:
Minty or Mike may I get a copy also please?
Minty I PMd you
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have updated my config since I sent the details last, but I still duplex (or send multiple signals of the same HDMI source) to bypass the HDCP restrictions so I can continue to use my older soundbar. Picture with notes attached. Shout if you need anything more.
Hi Guys,
i own a 2K-Monitor (ViewSonic VX3211-2K-MHD) which i want to use to stream YouTube, Netflix & Co.
Therefore today i bought a 4k Firestick - connected it without the flexible adapter (straight into HDMI) and installed all available updates.
Unfortunately i had to recognize that the max resolution i can choose is 1920x1080, also when i enter the Monitor-Menu it shows me the actual resolution, which is also 1920x1080.
Ive read a lot about this topic and the only reason for it - i guess so - is the well known HDMI Version-Thing.
My Monitor has HDMI 1.4, DisplayPort 1.2 and HDCP 1.4 on board.
Now ive questions about this and hope you guys can give me a hint to solve my problem:
- Some users reported, that they had the same issue (max. 1920x1080 on a 2k tv/monitor) and solved it with an HDMI>DisplayPort Adapter, cause HDMI (or the specific HDMI-Version) was limiting to 1920x1080 and in some cases the DisplayPort had a newer Version.
In my case the DisplayPort has the version 1.2 which i fear would also limit the 4k FireStick. Does it make sense to try this adapter?
Can you confirm that my HDMI Version is limiting?
(EDIT: I connected my Computer/GTX970Phantom on it and WQHD worked without Problems - so why is the FireStick limiting?)
Can you refer a setup to get 2k running on my monitor for my (streaming) goals?
Can be software sided if it makes sense (rooting, etc.) or Hardware sided (Change the FireStick against other "Media-Boxes" or Hardware.)
Thank you,
E