HI I recently buy the car android unit. I attach the amplifier with the unit's blue wire so it turn on with unit power on. But now when i increase the volume more than 20 it just stop the audio out on all speakers. And the only way it work is turn the car off wait 1 min then power on. Can any one help me regarding this?
Same issue, any audio I play sometimes stop (maybe for a second) and it’s back again, but when I turn of the car, and come back maybe 5 min after, turn on the car and there’s no sound on any app. I tried whit the original HU (veloster) and all the speakers works fine, so I’m guessing is a software problem. I’m new in all this but, the can bus will something to do??
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Hey I received my head unit, installed it with no visible issues, until I tried to play music. I didn't notice the whole time that there was no sound, only feedback. I plugged in the adapter that came with the unit for rca connects and all was good. Minutes after connecting I went inside to eat, came back out turned on my car to listen to music from my phone via mirror screen, but no power to the unit... I've been through almost 13, 10 and 15 amp fuses... Any ideas? I was thinking wiring but the factory unit works fine with no issues. I've even just connected the red positive and black negative straight to the battery, and yet the fuses blows on the head unit
Normaly those headunit should with 3 wires, yellow, red connect to 12V+, and black connect to 12V-. Maybe you miss connect anything?
Hello,
I have recently bought a new hizpo head unit off ebay for my 2004 Lexus ES330, the car has a built in Pioneer amp, and I installed it using the TYTO-01 wiring harness. All the conections are good with no issues but there is a problem going on and im not sure what the source is or how to fix it. Multiple times a day, when I start the car there is no sound from the head unit at all, no system sound bluetooth sound radio sound or anything else. It is dead silent. This doesnt occure every time i start the car but it happens 2/3 of the time. I did some trouble shooting and this is what i have figured out, the sound works again if the head unit is restarted through the rst button with a paperclip. I can also get it to work by stopping the car completley and starting it again but this doesn't always work and takes multiple trials. The other way it will work without ****ting it off and powering back up is by disconnecting the blue/white wire from the head unit and reconnecting it. This wire is the amp connector wire from the head unit to the factory amp of the car.
Any suggestions would be much apreciated, thanks!
Hi, perhaps the amp "turn on" wire could be connected to a accessories 12V wire so that every time the accessories voltage turns on the amp is also on, regardless if the head unit turns it on or not. The blue/white wire should be the amp "turn on" trigger wire, the amp does not get power from it, it only gets out of standby if the blue white has 12V on it. Accessories wire from the car side for me has been red, and the main positive is yellow. You can test the red wire with a multimeter to see if it turns off and on when turning the car key. The head unit also uses the accessories voltage to know when it should turn on the screen from standby.
Hey all,
I upgraded from a PX5 Xtrons. Had no issues with it.
When volume is muted, there's no sound. When on 1 or higher, there's a background fuzz. Not static but just a general oldschool hifi 'furry' sound. It doesn't get louder if I turn the volume up. I've tried unplugging everything but the main harness. Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.
I'm using the Xtrons harness because I didn't want to have to run a whole new one to the boot where the factory amp is. It looks like there's a couple of pins different too. Hoping it's not that...
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Honestly most of these units in my experience have some. WiFi, cell phones, radio etc can sometimes be picked up by the amplifier circuit and you'll hear their resonate frequencies through the car stereo (turn any stereo up loud and put a phone near the active input cable... you'll hear it). Honestly the best thing you can do is make sure the radio is grounded to your chassis directly, that way a lot of these spurious signals are filtered properly and their pesky resonates cease to exist!
Oh and it usually quits when you turn it to 0 because it actually completely shuts down the amplifier...
Thanks for the response. I’ll pull the head unit out at some stage and try and ground it. If it fixes it I’ll report back. Thanks again.
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After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it.
I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back.
Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again.
I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights.
My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU.
The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter.
Any ideas what to try next?
I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that.
I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice.
Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on?
Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input.
I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V.
Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound.
When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off.
Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said:
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestions!
I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights.
I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery.
Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said:
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though.
I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights.
After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB.
Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back.
My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.
Hello,
I have Android head unit for Peugeot 407, it's PX5 and running on Android 9.0. Issue I'm having for some time is that I have seperate amp and sub attached to it. I have taken 12V signal to turn it on from head unit's I think antenna or something that gave out 12V whenever it was turned on. I sometimes play music louder and after some time subwoofer just cuts off and it remains playing on normal car speakers. I checked already if maybe amp overheats but it doesn't as when I restart the unit (turn car off then on) the signal is back on and it can play again for some time before it cutsoff again. Also other interesting thing is that my rear speakers are not working at all on head unit... the weren't working for quite a long while, not sure if they have correct wiring on that adapter that comes with it to plug it to car. I was thinking of bridging the front and rear speakers together since I don't want them not playing as i've bought them new after my factory ones rotted out. They were working when I had my factory radio in few years back.