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[Info] Power button hardware fix

Hello all. Yes I am a noob to the forum, but not to small electronics and the dismantling of them. After getting everything set up on my machine necessary to Root my TF and side load the netflix app, I noticed my power button wasn't being as responsive as it should. Doing a quick google search I found that this was a common thing, even on TFs with stock firmware, so I took to dismantling the thing to figure out what is causing it.
I did a quick search to see if anyone has cracked the case open and found this thread. I didn't use a guitar pick, but rather a plastic and metal spuder set I had from repairing my mom's ipod touch (damn soldered batteries!).
Tools:
Tool Kit
Or
A T5 Torx bit
A spudger
#0 Phillips screwdriver.
Lock-Tite super glue gel (optional!)
1. Start by removing the two T5 torx bits from both sides of the charging/dock port
2. Use the plastic spudger or guitar pick and loose the seam around the entire case. If you look closely at the face, you will see the glass meet a black plastic rim and then the metal rim around that. What you are aiming to do is separate the black plastic from the glass. The plastic is glued to the metal so if you see adhesive separating, you are prying the wrong spot. There are various plastic tabs around the glass like a TV remote so using the plastic spuder is safer until you get some visible room to go in with the metal one.
3. Once you have the frame off, there are 4 #0 Phillips screws on the face, one at each corner, then 3 screws on the top and bottom of the frame (previously under the metal case
4. Removing all 4 face screws plus 6 rail screws will allow you to remove the back plastic. Now you can see everything
5. Bonus points for ASUS for giving us a battery that unplugs vs one that is soldered in (damn you apple). If you want some peace of mind, you can pop off the battery cable. I did not see any side effects from doing this (no data loss, etc).
6. On the side with the power and volume buttons, you will see a blue-tipped silver cable under a black tab. This black tab is what holds the ribbon down and lifts up like a toilet seat. It does not pull forward, it does not pop off (unless you broke it), but because it is plastic, be gentle. Once the tab is lifted, the silver cable will come out.
7. Unscrew the 3 #0 Phillip screws holding down the button board for easier access remove it.
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It doesn't matter whether you are having a volume issue or power button issue, so long as you know its hardware related. The way these buttons work is under constant pressure is "off" and removing that pressure turns it "on". So the metal tab pushes down on the plastic button, which pushes down on the switch. What is happening is over time, that metal tab gives way to less pressure on the daisy chain and the button stops working. The good news is, this metal tab is just held on via 'wings' around the soldered base. A razer knife is enough to gently lift the wings to pop the assembly apart for repairing. Given the construction of these switches, I wish ASUS just made the entire board available, but oh well.
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8. With the offending metal cap off, bend the middle thumb further down and back in to position and re-assemble the switch.
9. (Optional). I bent my tab further in to prevent me from having to re-do this operation several months from now, but doing so meant that ANY pressure on the button caused the metal cap to pop back off. That is really bad if the case is re-assembled. My solution was to swab some lock-tite super glue gel on the bottom wings and base of the metal cap and put it back on the switch. A very thin film is sufficient because it is a gel, it dries in seconds. WARNING> Once you reassemble the switch, keep pressure on the metal cap while you keep pressing the black button. If you don't, any glue leakage will lock that button in place.

O button work like back button in most emulators!

Hello people
First I love my xperia play and I feel sad that no company done another cel like this with hidden buttons =\
. Recently I installed some emulators from google play like mame, Final burn,etc
and the O button works just like the back button from our phone and that makes the emulator close as usual. There's no config in changing this in emulators config options. I can let the O button as blank if I want, but I want use it!
For example: Street fighter 2 has 6 buttons in arcade weak punch, mid punch, strong punch, weak kick, mid kick, strong kick.
I want use all my 6 buttons in my xperia play to be like this
weak punch -Square
mid punch - L
strong punch - Triangle
weak kick- X
mid kick - R
strong kick - O
but if I press the O button, the emulator close instead simulate the strong kick.
Anybody knows how to fix thix?
I heard that in other android games(no emulators) this happen too.
Thanks and Long live our xperia Xd

You can fix that by getting GameKeyboard+. It's an app that can remap keys, create virtual gamepads on the screen etc.
It's not free, but it's dirt cheap and it even has dedicated settings for Xperia Play. I had identical problem to you and this is the solution.

gamekeyboard usually does the job,depending on the rom you are on.i personally use retroarch so i have all emulator in 1 app, for free

New Shield 2017 cpu meters in SPMC / KODI

I have noticed when streaming in SPMC if you press X on the control pad a drop down box comes down telling you the load while streaming, the shield shows all 4 cores working and load on each core to about 30-60% .
Now with say a Amazon fire tv 4k box if you do the same but with the 3 lines button on the remote the drop down box comes down again telling you only 1 of the 4 cores is working at 50 odd % .
This can't be right can it?

Joypad sticking

If had the shield 2017 for four months and hardly ever use the joystick. I picked it up to play a game and the up direction on the left joypad doesn't want to move. Like something under is broken. The left D pad and right joypad are fine. No one ever is around it except me and I've never dropped it, besides I have very soft and fluffy carpet. It's seems like it's built with cheap parts.

Kindle Fire 8 HD 8th Generation Screen Replacement (LCD/Digitizer)

I couldn't find any instructions for how to deal with replacing the LCD screen/digitizer on a Kindle Fire 8 HD 8th generation device where the motherboard is a little different than previous generations. So I wrote up some instructions to help the next person who needs to replace the screen.
I bought the replacement screen by S-Union on Amazon.
There are two YouTube videos I recommend watching: one on how to replace the screen for Kindle Fire 7 https://youtu.be/_zaQVY2wu58 (I couldn't find one for Kindle Fire 8 HD 8th gen and this was a good enough overview.... any that show how to remove the glass screen are fine) and how to remove the motherboard for Kindle Fire 8 HD 8th gen https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4.
So here's what I did:
1. Remove the back cover. Use the plastic pry tool or guitar pick to wedge in between the side edge of the Kindle Fire and unsnap the back cover.
2. On the backside, carefully disconnect the battery by taking a flat head screwdriver and gently lifting upwards towards your face. The cable you're wanting to remove has little red and white wires and connects to the motherboard at the bottom of the Kindle Fire. See here: https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4?t=90
3. Remove the broken glass on the front. I borrowed a heat gun from a neighbor, but I think I could have just as easily used a hair dryer. I used the heat gun to loosen up the glue around the edges and pry off the old glass with one of the plastic prying tools that came with this kit. I put packing tape over the glass to keep it together. I would recommend wearing rubber gloves, gardening gloves, or oyster gloves to keep from cutting your hands. It takes patience. After removing the glass, you can clean-up any extra pieces of glass and adhesive that get left behind.
4. There's a cable that goes from the LCD screen/digitizer to the motherboard on the back. It's OK if it comes apart in pieces. On the motherboard, there's a 1 cm black square that connects to the LCD screen/digitizer. First, you'll need to remove the yellowish tape covering it and the little ribbon cable. Next, you'll need to unplug the little ribbon cable by pulling the cable out towards the 1 cm black square. Next, take a flat head screw driver and scrape off the black square. It's just lightly glued to the motherboard. See here: https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4?t=156
5. Back on the front, stick only one side of the white double-sided tape adhesive to the edges where the new glass will attach. Later, we'll pull off the top side of the double-sided tape with tweezers so that the glass will stay down.
6. Next, you'll need to remove the motherboard so that the ribbon cable and 1 cm black square from the new LCD screen/digitizer can pass through the Kindle Fire (from front of device to the back). There are four little phillip screws (similar to eyeglass screws) that need to be removed which attach the motherboard to the Kindle Fire. One screw may be covered by a little "S" sticker. See here: https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4?t=53
7. Once the screws are out of the motherboard, you can take a flat head screw driver and pop out the motherboard. Wedge the flat head screw driver towards the edge where the volume and power buttons are and gently press up. Other than the battery and the little ribbon cable for the LCD screen/digitizer, you do not need to disconnect any wires as in the motherboard replacement video. See here: https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4?t=214
8. When the motherboard is loose, just pull it back and pass the cable from the LCD screen/digitizer through the hole where the old ribbon cable went through for the LCD screen/digitizer from the front. Once it's through, you can gently snap the motherboard back into place and put the four phillips screws back in.
9. Practice plugging in the little ribbon cable from the 1 cm black square. It slides in like a plug (there are six pins on top and bottom and they will hold the little ribbon cable in place). Once you see how to reattach the ribbon cable, you can remove it, pull the tape off of the bottom of the 1 cm black square, attach the 1 cm black square to the motherboard, and then plug the little ribbon cable back into the motherboard.
10. Back on the front of the Kindle Fire, remove the top layers of the two-sided tape, remove the plastic film from the rear-side of the LCD screen/digitizer, and push the screen into place.
11. Plug the battery back in. If you bent any pins while removing the power cable, you may be able to gently straighten them with your finger or a flat head screw driver.
12. You can carefully attempt to power on the Kindle Fire by plugging it in or holding down the power button. Please don't touch the back while doing this as you might short out the device and get a nasty shock. If the device powers on, you should hear the start-up beep and see the Amazon logo on the screen. You now know your screen replacement attempt has been successful! If it doesn't power on, you will want to check the connection from the battery to the motherboard and any other cables.
13. If everything worked, power down the device, unplug it, snap on the back cover, and remove the clear plastic film from the front of the glass. Congratulations!