Database Users

USB Problems (newbie) Pls help me out (progress...please take a look)

Hi peepz. first time posting,
Now to the point....
My 8525 for no good reason is no longer seen by my PC. When hooked up via USB, I still get the "charging" icon on the battery...but the machine cant see it in device manager as well as active sync. The only thing I have done recently is install TomTom6 and then uninstall it. I'm hoping its not the hardware. (i installed TomTom via the SD card). I must have blew away a driver or something.
Is there a .cab or a fix out there for this?
Running
WM5
Rom ver. 2.15.502.3
radio. 1.40.30.00
I'm at a loss. I've already looked at the USB to PC settings and gone threw all the configurations with no results.
Be Kind! I'm a newbe and need help.
~ThumB

have you checked your deviceid? it might have been changed. if it has just change it back to what you have had before you had any problems.
you can try deleting your existing partnership and create a new one.
notice you still have wm5. you might want to consider wm6. there is a lot of functional and stable cooke ROM's laying around here..

bapski said:
have you checked your deviceid? it might have been changed. if it has just change it back to what you have had before you had any problems.
you can try deleting your existing partnership and create a new one.
notice you still have wm5. you might want to consider wm6. there is a lot of functional and stable cooke ROM's laying around here..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No its not the partnership. I'ts not detected at all! I've tried that. The problem is not with active sync, its with the USB port. It dont know its even there. I get no errors...I get nothing at all.....
I was looking to upgrade tonight to WM6.....If there is a way to upgrade from the SDcard, I'd do that. I've tried it actually. but it just tels me its not a valid PPC app. (RUU_Hermes_CINGULAR_WWE_3_1_.57.502.1_6275_1.48.00.00_108-ATT-MR3_Ship.exe)
The phone works fine otherwise....just wont show up!
Also, I've un-installed EVERYTHING on the PPC. Its backed up so I can blow it away anytime.

is the "enable advance network functionality" option disabled in your USB to PC setting?

bapski said:
is the "enable advance network functionality" option disabled in your USB to PC setting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it's on.
I'm really thinking its a driver or a file that was overwritten that controles the USB port. Selecting the "enable advance " key i think is just not functioning.
Is there a way to re-install the OS (either WM5 or WM6 from the SD card without having "hardSPL" installed?

ThumB said:
Yes it's on.
I'm really thinking its a driver or a file that was overwritten that controles the USB port. Selecting the "enable advance " key i think is just not functioning.
Is there a way to re-install the OS (either WM5 or WM6 from the SD card without having "hardSPL" installed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A hard reset will likely sort this. By the way, I would NOT enable the advance functionality.
Mike

It's possible you could do it without a hard reset - it sounds like something has gone wrong with your notification list...have a search on here or in the wiki about putting it back - can't remember exactly what it is but if you can find it, it might save you rebuilding.
Smiffy.

ThumB said:
Yes it's on.
I'm really thinking its a driver or a file that was overwritten that controles the USB port. Selecting the "enable advance " key i think is just not functioning.
Is there a way to re-install the OS (either WM5 or WM6 from the SD card without having "hardSPL" installed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try to uncheck the "enable advance....."

I know this may sound strange, but are you using the same USB cable that you always have?
Not all mini USB cables are made equal. I ordered some 5pin mini USB cables from Triplite that would charge my 8525 but would not connect to active sync on Vista. (Have not tried XP) If I switched to another mini USB everything worked as expected.
I just noticed this two days ago and have only had my device for a week, so I am by NO means an expert.

Eskimo said:
I know this may sound strange, but are you using the same USB cable that you always have?
Not all mini USB cables are made equal. I ordered some 5pin mini USB cables from Triplite that would charge my 8525 but would not connect to active sync on Vista. (Have not tried XP) If I switched to another mini USB everything worked as expected.
I just noticed this two days ago and have only had my device for a week, so I am by NO means an expert.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah! Penfold I have an idea!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Mike

Eskimo said:
I know this may sound strange, but are you using the same USB cable that you always have?
Not all mini USB cables are made equal. I ordered some 5pin mini USB cables from Triplite that would charge my 8525 but would not connect to active sync on Vista. (Have not tried XP) If I switched to another mini USB everything worked as expected.
I just noticed this two days ago and have only had my device for a week, so I am by NO means an expert.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK guys....still at a loss. I have done 2 hard resets and still no USB connectivity. Also, I have checked to see if my headphones still work....they do. Also, It does still charge the battery when plugged into the PC and with the actual AC charger. Lastly, I have noticed that my charging LED never goes green like it would when fully charged. I'll leave it for another hour to see if I'm just being impatient.
I'm starting to think that somehow its a hardware issue. Like the USB has gone partially bad.....if thats possible to go "half" bad.
Any other ideas??? Also, is there a way I can upgrade to WM6 via SDcard? And is there a utility that will allow me to install programs without activesync? (IE: not a valid PPC application) Then I could at least try and figure out how to activesync via wireless.
~ThumB
And thanks for all your help with this! Great community !

ThumB said:
OK guys....still at a loss. I have done 2 hard resets and still no USB connectivity. Also, I have checked to see if my headphones still work....they do. Also, It does still charge the battery when plugged into the PC and with the actual AC charger. Lastly, I have noticed that my charging LED never goes green like it would when fully charged. I'll leave it for another hour to see if I'm just being impatient.
I'm starting to think that somehow its a hardware issue. Like the USB has gone partially bad.....if thats possible to go "half" bad.
Any other ideas??? Also, is there a way I can upgrade to WM6 via SDcard? And is there a utility that will allow me to install programs without activesync? (IE: not a valid PPC application) Then I could at least try and figure out how to activesync via wireless.
~ThumB
And thanks for all your help with this! Great community !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you did not change any active sync settings on the PC.
Worth a check (if you have not already) that for example, the "allow usb connections box is ticked and connect is automatic.
You can try deleting any existing ppc relationship and in the end you could try uninstalling and re-installing AS (if you have not already been through that!)
EDIT: forgot to mention: ensure you do not have any firewalls/security running on PC just as a check - this can block ASync.
Mike

mikechannon said:
I assume you did not change any active sync settings on the PC.
Worth a check (if you have not already) that for example, the "allow usb connections box is ticked and connect is automatic.
You can try deleting any existing ppc relationship and in the end you could try uninstalling and re-installing AS (if you have not already been through that!)
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. Already un-installed and re-installed ActiveSync and yes...checked the "allow usb" box. As i stated before. Active Sync is the least of the problems. The device wont show up on the computer....so activesync will never find it.
I have checked on 3 PC's thus far and with different cables.
I have deleted the relationship and all that as well, but thats not the root of the issue.
Also, I was just impatient and the charging light finally turned green.....so thats working fine as well.....It's a mystery!

ThumB said:
Yup. Already un-installed and re-installed ActiveSync and yes...checked the "allow usb" box. As i stated before. Active Sync is the least of the problems. The device wont show up on the computer....so activesync will never find it.
I have checked on 3 PC's thus far and with different cables.
I have deleted the relationship and all that as well, but thats not the root of the issue.
Also, I was just impatient and the charging light finally turned green.....so thats working fine as well.....It's a mystery!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly is. Sounding more like a hardware issue. Have you got another cable around to try. Or even holding the connector end with light pressure at different angles at the device end in case there is a loose connection in the socket or at the device m/board.
Mike

mikechannon said:
Certainly is. Sounding more like a hardware issue. Have you got another cable around to try. Or even holding the connector end with light pressure at different angles at the device end in case there is a loose connection in the socket or at the device m/board.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yah i've tried different cables and tweaking it to the side and such. no dice.
Basically, I guess the USB port on my phone is now nothing more then a charger....
What is the possibility of this being a KITL Transport problem? (possibly talking out my ass)
~ThumB

Just try putting it into bootloader mode (the three colour screen, accessed by holding power buttonon right side, ok button on left side (below scroller) and pressing reset button in the bottom)
Once you're there, it will say serial on the bottom unless it's plugged into a USB port when it should change to "USB"
This will definitely rule out any software issue on the phone...
HTH
Smiffy.

Lordsmiff said:
Just try putting it into bootloader mode (the three colour screen, accessed by holding power buttonon right side, ok button on left side (below scroller) and pressing reset button in the bottom)
Once you're there, it will say serial on the bottom unless it's plugged into a USB port when it should change to "USB"
This will definitely rule out any software issue on the phone...
HTH
Smiffy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK two things...One PROMISING!
First I booted into Bootloader mode and it states "serial" regardless of if its plugged in to USB or not.
Second, I booted into KITL Mode and hit the left OK button. Under "Select KITL Transport", USB KITL comes up. When I did this, it showed up on my PC's Device manager. But once I softboot back into WM5, It does not come up again. So I'm thinking it was changed but I dont know how to save the setting. How do I keep the settings???

Progress................
So people... Here's where i'm at...
I Boot into KITL and select the OK button on the left side. It comes up with "USB KITL" and shows up on the PC in Device Manager. But it just hangs there in KITL mode. If i softboot, it looses the setting.
If i select the PPT button while in KITL Mode, it selects "ETH KITL" and then boots into WM5 and does NOT show up on the PC.
Please peeps.....any help will.....well.....help.
My Problem lies in KITL!!!
~ThumB

[HOW-TO]Set up a Captivate for Samsung Bootloader Development

OK, there's been quite a few unanswered questions on bootloader development.. I didn't want to clutter the Make your Own Bootloader thread with hardware stuff. I didn't want to clutter up the UnBrickable Mod thread with Bootloader development setup stuff. UnBrickable mod will be a one-stop shop thread for the Captivate eventually.
Introduction
This thread will get you started with bootloader development speciffic to the captivate, however the same techniques work on all GalaxyS devices with an adjustment to the RX/TX locations
We need to delve into the hardware, remove a resistor, attach a wire, and bring two wires outside of the phone. This is quite a bit more difficult then the typical UART over USB connection which we have used in the past. For bootloader development the UART Output described in this video will not work..
The external UART output with a 619Kohm jig between pins 4 and 5, monitoring 115200 8N1 serial output between pins 2 and 3 will not work because the USB hardware is initialised by the bootloaders. In order to test the bootloaders you are developing, you must go to a lower level.
Note:While the UART output in the video will not work for Bootloader development, itis absolutely unbeatable for Kernel level debug on nearly all Samsung devices.
Getting Started
You will need:
1. UnBrickable modded captivate (or other device)
2. A UART device (Android Acessory Development kit or Arduino Mega or a Bus Pirate or any other UART device)
3. A Soldering Iron
4. Flux
5. Solid core wire
6. A relay (For the wire contained within)
7. A Linux computer (get Ubuntu here and dual boot, or run in a virtual machine)
Instructions
1. Apply the UnBrickable Mod to your Samsung Captivate. See Here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1206216
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2. Next we need to connect a relay wire to the internal JTAG UART points. We cannot use the external UART via USB as we have seen in the past for writing bootloaders because the chip which handles switching for UART has not been initialized yet. We need to go directly to the source off of the processor. You can connect to the internal JTAG UART RX and TX lines here on the JTAG pads:
Using the JTAG header, you can connect to these points using this header: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/AXT612124/?qs=2rFUEsTwVNwSdqVM5XnLHw==
and this Receptical: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/AXT512124/?qs=2rFUEsTwVNy9TGVyeT43Dg==
They can be connected directly, or you can use a board from a guy named "K-WW" on the Hackaday.com forums
Here is a picture of my JTAG connector... This is optional and you will likely want to run wires directly for this project.
Alternately you can get these same points here, next to the processor:
3. Once you have the wires connected to the board, technically you're done and you can now connect up to your Android using your UART Device of choice. I decided to go the extra step and run those small wires to some solid core wire I bent and melted into the phone's case.
The further one is RX and the closer one is TX. Using this low point allows me to close up the device properly and I can still use my SDCard slot.
4. To do some debugging you can connect your Arduino at 8N1 using the same code from the video above...
Code:
void setup() {
// initialize both serial ports:
Serial.begin(115200);
Serial1.begin(115200);
}
void loop() {
// read from port 1, send to port 0:
if (Serial1.available()) {
int inByte = Serial1.read();
Serial.print(inByte, BYTE);
}
// read from port 0, send to port 1:
if (Serial.available()) {
int inByte = Serial.read();
Serial1.print(inByte, BYTE);
}
}
Or connect the Bus Pirate up to the device using the following options in a terminal:
Code:
HiZ>m
1. HiZ
2. 1-WIRE
3. UART
4. I2C
5. SPI
6. 2WIRE
7. 3WIRE
8. LCD
9. DIO
x. exit(without change)
(1)>3
Set serial port speed: (bps)
1. 300
2. 1200
3. 2400
4. 4800
5. 9600
6. 19200
7. 38400
8. 57600
9. 115200
10. BRG raw value
(1)>9
Data bits and parity:
1. 8, NONE *default
2. 8, EVEN
3. 8, ODD
4. 9, NONE
(1)>1
Stop bits:
1. 1 *default
2. 2
(1)>1
Receive polarity:
1. Idle 1 *default
2. Idle 0
(1)>1
Select output type:
1. Open drain (H=Hi-Z, L=GND)
2. Normal (H=3.3V, L=GND)
(1)>2
Ready
UART>
4. Next you need some firmware. There is firmware in the Captivate Development Platform thread, and there is some in the Create Your Own bootloaders thread You can create your own.
5. In order to debug the firmware it has to be uploaded. You can use the SMDK Download tool attached in this post. Uncompress to your desktop
6. To prepare the phone for debug, remove the battery, insert the battery attach USB and run the following program in a new terminal (not the one you are monitoring USB Output)
Upon plugging in the USB, you should see
Code:
�����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������
Uart negotiation Error
Then you execute this in a new window
Code:
sudo ~/Desktop/dltool/smdk-usbdl -f ~/Desktop/dltool/s5pc110_test/s5pc110_sbl_loader.bin -a D0020000
you will see this in the same window
Code:
SMDK42XX,S3C64XX USB Download Tool
Version 0.20 (c) 2004,2005,2006 Ben Dooks <[email protected]>
S3C64XX Detected!
=> found device: bus 002, dev 011
=> loaded 24576 bytes from /home/adam/Desktop/dltool/s5pc110_test/s5pc110_sbl_loader.bin
=> Downloading 24586 bytes to 0xd0020000
=> Data checksum ffb7
=> usb_bulk_write() returned 24586
[email protected]:~$
And upon upload of the primitive bootloader, you will see this in the UART window
Code:
Welcome to the S5PC110 resurrector by Rebellos!
Calling SGS IBL Stage2, pray so it wont hang...
DONE!
Testing if BL3 area is R/W
DONE!
Please prepare USB dltool with BL3 (SBL)
Starting downloader in...
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
7. Unplug the USB cable. As soon as the USB cable is removed all executing commands stop and the device awaits you to push the power on button.
Some notes:
PBL execution automatically occurs at 0xD002000 (this is with a 0x10 signature in front so the actual code begins at 0xD002010)
SBL is in DRAM at 0x40244000
Conclusion
So, there you have it. This is how to set up your Captivate to be a bootloader development kit. You don't have to develop a bootloader to load it up using this method.. You can simply stop at step 1 of this guide, UnBrickable mod, and be able to test results without UART output.
If anyone would like to give me one of the following devices' mainboard I will make a UnBrickable Mod/Development Platform for each device.
Samsung Devices: I9000 S8500, S8530, SGH-897, SGH-i896, SGH-i997, T959, SGH-T849, GT-P1000, GT-i9010, GT-i8350, GT-I917
Google Nexus S, Odroid T,
Apple iPhone4
Any new Samsung WP7
Further reading
Create your own bootloader: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1233273
The Captivate Development Platform: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1206216
Lets save some bricks: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1018862

Samsung Infuse (SGH-i997) Owners:
We've got it much easier when it comes to the JTAG header. As you can see in the picture below, the header is already attached to the PCB, and all we need is the connector board from "K-WW".
The large metallic thing on the left is the SIM card slot. The connector for the display (at the bottom of the picture) might be in the way. If it isn't we'll be able to connect to the JTAG and UART2 ports without doing any soldering or even disconnecting a single cable on the device.
We need someone to donate an Infuse to AdamOutler. He needs to remove the processor from the PCB to be able to find the xOM5 pad. This means destroying the phone, so it doesn't matter what the condition is. If it's bricked with a smashed screen and water damage, it doesn't matter! If you can help us with this, please speak up on this thead: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1221064

You don't NEED the board. The receptical itself with wires attached will attach to the header and you could close up the device with it attached. With the socket breakout board, the device would need to remain open. I would be searching for alternate UART points as well so the JTAG header would remain available.
Like I said.... I need device mainboards... they need not work. I'm not gaining anything directly from this except fruits of firmware development.... alternate OSs and open source bootloaders

Or, try to find 5 OM resistors while phone is being powered up.
3 should be 100.3kOhm resistance and connected to GND
2 should be ~10.1kOhm resistance and connected to VCC PDA (most likely exactly 2.8V, but 1.8V and similiar is also possible option)
These should be in row, or close to itselves. Then all whats left is guessing which one of the 3 is OM5. By some dangerous tests most likely, but with much smaller risk of damaging the board, comparing to complete CPU teardown.

aww dude, that's awesome....will try to do some of it on my cappy ; )

Rebellos said:
Or, try to find 5 OM resistors while phone is being powered up.
3 should be 100.3kOhm resistance and connected to GND
2 should be ~10.1kOhm resistance and connected to VCC PDA (most likely exactly 2.8V, but 1.8V and similiar is also possible option)
These should be in row, or close to itselves. Then all whats left is guessing which one of the 3 is OM5. By some dangerous tests most likely, but with much smaller risk of damaging the board, comparing to complete CPU teardown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my device, all resistors are 100.3kohm.

how to send the MB or how to fix my bricked phone GT-i8350

Adam,
I've been staring at this document, the picture of the infuse and the sgh-t959v pictures from ifixit for a while and finally got the gumption to try finding the internal uart. Big thanks for this picture:
AdamOutler said:
You can connect to the internal JTAG UART RX and TX lines here on the JTAG pads:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SGH-T959V Internal Uart thread.
Thanks again for all you do for the community!
-Bryan

Just me or does Epic 4G + Samsung Driver 1.3.800 + Windows 7 (64-bit) = Massive fail?

So I recently switched from Windows 7 (32-bit) to Windows 7 (64-bit) because I upgraded my memory to more than 4GB and ever since I've been unable to reliably connect to my Epic 4G through adb. Before the upgrade I had no issues with connectivity and even creating a VM (Windows 7 (32-bit)) on the same machine connects to the phone ok. Have been searching for a solution for a while but haven't come across anything. The phone appears to connect ok in Win 7/64 but quickly goes offline.
Other android devices I own are working fine in Win 7/64 so I'm wondering if I'm just missing something or if the Samsung drivers have an issue with Win 7/64. Thanks in advance for any info...

did u try DL drivers again ? = worked 4 me when I went from 32 to 64 myself

I let Windows Update update my drivers and they work great on my 64 bit Gateway.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

TexasEpic4G said:
did u try DL drivers again ? = worked 4 me when I went from 32 to 64 myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Win 7/64 was a clean install. However I have tried uninstalling all the devices from the device manager, rebooting, re-installing the Samsung exe, rebooting again and connecting the phone. Have also tried using USBDeview to remove any left over registry entries and what not.

kennyglass123 said:
I let Windows Update update my drivers and they work great on my 64 bit Gateway.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you're saying you never even installed the Samsung drivers and just let Windows Update find the appropriate ones? If so this is not something I have tried... Maybe I should?

how 'bout trying a different USB port ?

machx0r said:
So you're saying you never even installed the Samsung drivers and just let Windows Update find the appropriate ones? If so this is not something I have tried... Maybe I should?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah. I plugged in the phone with USB debugging on, hit connect usb on phone and then went into Device Manager and found Samsung Android under USB. Hit update driver from Windows Update. Takes over 30 minutes to get them all.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

TexasEpic4G said:
how 'bout trying a different USB port ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've run out of ports I haven't tried. I'm going to try uninstalling the drivers I downloaded and letting Windows Update give me whatever like kennyglass123 suggested. Will let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the suggestions!

You'll get it working right soon

machx0r said:
So I recently switched from Windows 7 (32-bit) to Windows 7 (64-bit) because I upgraded my memory to more than 4GB and ever since I've been unable to reliably connect to my Epic 4G through adb. Before the upgrade I had no issues with connectivity and even creating a VM (Windows 7 (32-bit)) on the same machine connects to the phone ok. Have been searching for a solution for a while but haven't come across anything. The phone appears to connect ok in Win 7/64 but quickly goes offline.
Other android devices I own are working fine in Win 7/64 so I'm wondering if I'm just missing something or if the Samsung drivers have an issue with Win 7/64. Thanks in advance for any info...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been Odining and doing other USB things on my Win7 64bit Thinkpad T400 with no problems at all. I don't remember where I got the driver, it may have been the Samsung website, but the info panel says :
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Grrr... It still works off and on. Certainly not as reliable as my Win 7/32 laptop (or VM). Do you guys with working connections have to retry things often and/or disconnect/reconnect?
This is the kind of stuff I get:
Code:
C:\Users\ccharlton>adb shell
$ exit
exit
C:\Users\ccharlton>adb shell
$ exit
exit
C:\Users\ccharlton>adb shell
The last 'adb shell' command just hangs as does everything else until I dis/reconnect (ie: adb logcat). I can successfully repeat the same commands all day long on my Win 7/32 laptop/VM so I'm not sure...

Have you tried a different cable than the stock Samsung cable?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

Yup, bad cable. Get a heavy duty Blackberry or Palm Pre cable.

I went through the same thing on win 7 64 on my buddies pc and we tried literally everything. He ended up swapping his motherboard at one point and low and behold it worked fine... I honestly think that microusb is so touchy that certain USB busses have compatibility/power issues, especially with non standard applications like odin or adb commands of any kind. On my PC I can only use my onboard USB ports. The ones on the front of my PC absolutely will not make it through a oneclickroot or Odin, yet I can plug into them and transfer data and charge my phone no prob. Very frustrating.

getting win7 to detect + load drivers for your samsung device is a bit trial/error, where the PC auto detecting + loading drivers part usually works out fine but the SDcard file won't mount (even after tapping 'USB connected/Mount') .......have experienced a conflict where the drivers were obviously installed yet MyComputer would not show the device as an external drive (to the mounted SDfile in the Epic)........in that instance have instead Odin'd the device and flashed a ROM (proving the usb cable was ok)........thereafter have been able to run SWUpdater --again, using the supplied samsung usb cable-- or else mount the SD card direct to the win7 and work w/ the SD file in MyComputer, something that it had not allowed me initially to do.
Edit: was on the PC last night (win7professional 64 bit) and experienced this very issue again , the external card on the device mounted (w/ PC notification beep), but not viewable as external drive.......tried changing various cables, + finally re-booted both the PC + Epic (was not going to ODIN as i did last time w/ this issue), and FINALLY the D: drive appeared!.............very likely (as others on this thread have suggested) the cable is the culprit, what else could it be?

Ya I'm at a loss here...
- All three USB cables I have work fine w/ another laptop (Win 7/32), on the same laptop while redirected to a VM (Win 7/32, different system drivers since it's a VM), and in the past on the same laptop when it was Win 7/32...
- I get connected for a brief period of time if I connect/reconnect (it's a crap shoot and honestly something like 'adb logcat' will run forever [when it works] as long as I don't disconnect)
So I'm not really sure what the issue is as there as so many potential targets. Very frustrating...

I have trouble now and again where i get a lockup when transfering files(using winxp) to my epic and explorer crashes.
I cross my fingers whenever im transfering large files. Im also using the latest samsung driver off thier site.
Ive also used many different types and quality of cables and all of them act the same. Bleh
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

chkchkboom said:
I have trouble now and again where i get a lockup when transfering files(using winxp) to my epic and explorer crashes.
I cross my fingers whenever im transfering large files. Im also using the latest samsung driver off thier site.
Ive also used many different types and quality of cables and all of them act the same. Bleh
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this happen too I link it to having a bad ROM I odin'd and problem went away.
I know lol it would suck because id be sitting there transferring a 10mb file and next thing you know windows exlorer crashes I'm like wtf??! Lol
Sent from my SPH-D700

Use different cable
Had that problem with stock cable. I use my kindle micro usb cable and it works fine.

G2 Lollipop usb cable issue

Hi all i am running on the lollipop 5.0.2
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Since few days I'm having an issue with the usb cable i got from lg. When i connect it to pc or a charger, both show charging slowly.
And it doesn't give me an option to change the connection type when i connect it to pc either, so pc is not able to recognize it.
When i use the cable i got from Nokia, it works properly.
I'm thinking it's something with the lg usb cable, but I'm not sure because it's not damaged or anything. It's still in a great condition.
Can anyone suggest what can be the real cause of this?

aniketpatil87 said:
Hi all i am running on the lollipop 5.0.2
View attachment 3273853
Since few days I'm having an issue with the usb cable i got from lg. When i connect it to pc or a charger, both show charging slowly.
And it doesn't give me an option to change the connection type when i connect it to pc either, so pc is not able to recognize it.
When i use the cable i got from Nokia, it works properly.
I'm thinking it's something with the lg usb cable, but I'm not sure because it's not damaged or anything. It's still in a great condition.
View attachment 3273854
Can anyone suggest what can be the real cause of this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well there may be 2 reasons.. your phone might be set to "Charge Only" mode or you might have a Charge Only USB cable.
I haven't touched Lollipop yet, but try going to Settings > Storage > Click the 3 dots > Choose USB Computer Connection, then check MTP. If that doesn't work.. read on..
Most USB Data & Charge cables contain 2x 28 AWG DATA wires, 2x 20-28 AWG POWER conductors and 1x DRAIN wire, giving us 5 pins on each side of the Cable (USB to Micro USB)
If you look closely on your USB Cable you may see some small print. On my official LG Charger/USB Cable that came with my G2 I see the code "28AWG 2C".
28AWG is the specification of my DATA wires.
2C is telling me I have 2 POWER CONDUCTOR wires.
Do you see any kind of model number or code on your USB Cable? If so.. google it or share it here.
Fun fact: The lower the AWG value (in my case, 28) the faster charge you get since it will have less resistance.

d00lz said:
Well there may be 2 reasons.. your phone might be set to "Charge Only" mode or you might have a Charge Only USB cable.
I haven't touched Lollipop yet, but try going to Settings > Storage > Click the 3 dots > Choose USB Computer Connection, then check MTP. If that doesn't work.. read on..
Most USB Data & Charge cables contain 2x 28 AWG DATA wires, 2x 20-28 AWG POWER conductors and 1x DRAIN wire, giving us 5 pins on each side of the Cable (USB to Micro USB)
If you look closely on your USB Cable you may see some small print. On my official LG Charger/USB Cable that came with my G2 I see the code "28AWG 2C".
28AWG is the specification of my DATA wires.
2C is telling me I have 2 POWER CONDUCTOR wires.
Do you see any kind of model number or code on your USB Cable? If so.. google it or share it here.
Fun fact: The lower the AWG value (in my case, 28) the faster charge you get since it will have less resistance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are no 3 dots in storage page.
E258105 P1 AWM21104 80C 30V VW-1 BROAD NON-PVC
The same cable used to charge & media transfer as well

The other issue is that I flashed the leaked lollipop rom on my g2.
before that it was showing software version v30a but now its showing v20d-ESA-xx.
also the startup animation was changed to shiny text 'Android' & shutdown animation was none, as we know there were vodafone animations.
No idea how this happend.

aniketpatil87 said:
The other issue is that I flashed the leaked lollipop rom on my g2.
before that it was showing software version v30a but now its showing v20d-ESA-xx.
also the startup animation was changed to shiny text 'Android' & shutdown animation was none, as we know there were vodafone animations.
No idea how this happend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I'm in the same situation, but I swear mine started when I did USB tethering for the first time. Now when I plug in it always says USB tethering even when that is turned off, and I have nowhere to select usb connection mode. It happens the same way on any laptop, not just the one I tethered that one time.

Were any of you able to resolve this issue? I'm having the same problem.
Thinking a reload would address it. but would like to back up the device first, kinda annoying.
---------- Post added at 07:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------
Are you saying that you get the USB connection type charging, mtp, to, midi when tethering in enabled?

Hello
From past 2 weeks i am wondering on internet for a solution . Hours and hours of surfing and articles but still
Hope some one solve this issue.
Okay. First i m using LG G2 F320 K update to lollipop . Non rooted. It was working fine . I can transfer files in MTP .
But about a month ago i get an update for my phone . And after some days i need to transfer some files to my phone , i wonder when i connected my phone to computer nothing happened . No notification on mobile for changing PTP MTP option . Also nothing happened in Computer device manager..
From that day i am unable to connect my phone with windows 10. It always charging mobile.
I uninstalled all drivers in device manager and installed from LG website. I updates windows N and NK MTP update from windows for windows 10.
I changed different data cables and different computers and different ports . All stuff i can do. Still no luck.
When ever i plug USB data cable it always put my Mobile on Charging . No notification on Mobile. Also i go in setting > storage> and there is no option in upper right corner to select USB PC connection .
I am in developer mode and debugging mode is on also. Also USB tethering option is Disabled .
Kindly some one help me regarding this.

[GUIDE] Samsung Galaxy S7 UART

It is happened that I needed to obtain UART access on Galaxy S7. I tried Google search, apparently. I have found several threads on XDA dedicated to this question; however, they all are a bit outdated (2012-2013 years), containing information about an old loader.
Moreover, they are describing information in a very limited way, mostly telling the reader only about how to use UART with loader and do not going deeper into details.
Finally, despired to find any valuable piece of information, I performed my own research and here I will structure all the information I gathered and discovered.
To begin with, there is an USB multiplexing unit between USB-connector and USB-controller, aimed to measure the value of resistance between ID and GND, and setup a USB controller mode in dependance of that. That is not a new thing: the same way works, for instance, USB OTG.
But there exist other work modes which are hidden from the normal user. These work modes are utilized by a special device which is used by Samsung engineers. One can order a device like this on Ebay, but I do not se any reason for. Source codes of the mobile phone kernel are available for download and include a multiplexing unit driver.
The S7's MUIC name is MAX77854, which comes with lack of documentation, but we have a driver, which, obviously, has source codes which are available here: drivers/muic/max77854-muic.c. Going through the sources, I found an actual table of the resistance values and work modes for this device:
OTG =*GND
MHL = 1K
VZW_ACC = 28.7K
VZW_INCOMPATIBLE = 34K
RDU_TA = 40.2K
HMT = 49.9K
AUDIODOCK = 64.9K
USB_LANHUB = 80.07K
CHARGING_CABLE = 102K
GAMEPAD = 121K
TYPE1_CHG = 200K
JIG_USB_OFF = 255K
JIG_USB_ON = 301K
DESKDOCK = 365K
TYPE2_CHG = 442K
JIG_UART_OFF = 523K
JIG_UART_ON = 619K
TA = OPEN
USB = OPEN
CDP = OPEN
UNDEFINED_CHARGING =*UNDEFINED
ATTACHED_DEV_NUM = NUM
I have no idea what the listed most modes mean, but I see one very interesting mode JIG_UART_ON, which has been researched a bit and which allowes us to connect a device through USB-UART adapter and get a SBOOT boot log. I was inspired by an article about SBOOT where a guy researched the possibility of hijacking the boot loader and discovered a way how to change boot parameters including kernel boot parameters.
First of all, we need to build a JIG(UART) adapter. For that purpose we need to have any USB-UART adapter (I used FT232) and resistance unit for 619kOm (I have purchased one for 620kOm in the shop next to my house). Then we need to get them together as on the scheme:
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"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
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}
The newly created adapter we need to plug in to the computer and wait for a new device name (on my system it set as /dev/ttyUSB0), then connect to this device through a terminal application (I used minicom).
Code:
sudo minicom -D /dev/ttyUSB0
I am not sure what settings will you have for your terminal application, that's why I highly recommend you to set up your port settings and disable the hardware flow control setting. After all things done, you have to plug a mobile phone to this adapter and turn it on using the key combo: Vol-(Volume Down) + Power.
As symbols on the screen start displaying, you need to quickly press Enter key as minimum as 3 times until we see the command line. Congratulations! We are in the SBOOT console! Run the following command:
Code:
setenv CMDLINE console=ttySAC4,115200 loglevel=4
saveenv
After its execution complete, press and hold Vol-(Volume Down) (if the above mentioned key has not been pressed, SBOOT will not print anything in the console) and enter the command into the SBOOT console:
Code:
reset
The device will reboot and we will see a SBOOT boot log and a part of kernel boot log. Why only a part? Because as of my research, a small bug is located in the kernel sources, I give you a patch for it below:
Code:
diff --git a/drivers/muic/universal/muic_apis.c b/drivers/muic/universal/muic_apis.c
index 342bc51..5af193c 100755
--- a/drivers/muic/universal/muic_apis.c
+++ b/drivers/muic/universal/muic_apis.c
@@ -796,7 +796,7 @@ int detach_jig_uart_boot_off(muic_data_t *pmuic)
*/
int attach_jig_uart_boot_on(muic_data_t *pmuic, muic_attached_dev_t new_dev)
{
- int com_index = COM_OPEN;
+ int com_index = COM_UART_AP;
int ret = 0;
pr_info("%s:%s JIG UART BOOT-ON(0x%x)\n",
After it has been applied, we will be able to see all the kernel boot log; however, we will break the GSM component of the mobile device. This UART port is used be system to communicate with a GSM modem. At this stage we can use it for kernel debugging, but it wasn't our goal.
Now let's get mobile device console access through UART, using the information received above.
To achieve this, we have to install TWRP on our device and using it, get root access. Then we have to install busibox, which includes getty application and that is the only its difference from the original. Afterwards, we boot our device, install a terminal emulator and switch the device to the airplane mode.
Now start the emulator and enter the following commands:
Code:
su
echo 1 > /sys/devices/virtual/sec/switch/uart_en
echo AP > /sys/devices/virtual/sec/switch/uart_sel #на этом этапе должен появиться лог ядра
su root -c "getty -n -L -l /system/bin/sh 115200 ttySAC4 vt102"
Useful links:
xda old forum thread
SBOOT hacking

and you connected the 3.3v line -why- exactly? the samsung won't power your max232 (if it does, like with usb otg, it will supply 5v, not 3.3 or usb converter and 3.3v won't power the samsung. just txd rxd and gnd is enough. also the 301ohm one always turns on the phone and boots to factory 'odin' mode for mass deployment of new firmware. (normal usb tho). when using them with the rs232 resistor value they'll output some crap at 115k2 during the bootloader.

cb3rob said:
and you connected the 3.3v line -why- exactly? the samsung won't power your max232 (if it does, like with usb otg, it will supply 5v, not 3.3 or usb converter and 3.3v won't power the samsung. just txd rxd and gnd is enough. also the 301ohm one always turns on the phone and boots to factory 'odin' mode for mass deployment of new firmware. (normal usb tho). when using them with the rs232 resistor value they'll output some crap at 115k2 during the bootloader.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I connected 3.3v because it normal to connect this line and it works. Probably without this line it will work. Everything that I write was tested by me. If you see crap during bootloader check minicom config.

lSDriim said:
I connected 3.3v because it normal to connect this line and it works, ft232 won't power Samsung because it's not working like that. Everything that I write was tested by me. If you see crap during bootloader check minicom config.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
connecting a 3.3v line to a 5v line (regardless of which way the power goes) doesn't seem very practical for long time use. at least for 'factory odin' mode the phone can be powered from the 5v usb side during the firmware deployment (as usually the batteries aren't all too full when we pull them out of the box anyway
nah not crap as in frame errors and random bytes crap. crap as in some status messages but nothing useful. could not find any way to stop it and drop into a machine language monitor, get any type of prompt, inject code to be booted, or anything else that would be useful from there. it literally just seems to be some debug messages of the bootloader(s)
1650 pages of leaked "samsung confidential" datasheet but finding how to actually -use- the things for anything 'not android' (as in registers, memory map instruction set)? nah. it's more work to figure out how samsung screwed things up and get rid of all their 'monopoly' code which they try to pass off as 'security' than to just design a new phone and order it into production
anyway, the age of the post of the resistor values doesn't matter. the values are the same for every samsung device i've tried (we only use s7's but i got boxes full of other models, including very old ones. the resistor cables work exactly the same way all of those - although the 'magic bytes' for samsungs 'modified' simg format are different for each model, as are obviously the partition sizes. and really old ones seem to use a different and incompatible version of the odin protocol alltogether). haven't tried it with those usb-c connectors on those j5/a5 or whatever those things are called, as i don't have usb-c male pcb connectors in stock, but most likely there too. it's also not very picky on the actual resistor value. 300 ohm instead of 301 is fine. as long as it's 'close enough' it'll go to the desired mode. (as their specified values are weird, you can't buy 301 ohm resistors (pretty much all of them do uart mode and turn on+odin factory mode)

cb3rob said:
connecting a 3.3v line to a 5v line (regardless of which way the power goes) doesn't seem very practical for long time use. at least for 'factory odin' mode the phone can be powered from the 5v usb side during the firmware deployment (as usually the batteries aren't all too full when we pull them out of the box anyway
nah not crap as in frame errors and random bytes crap. crap as in some status messages but nothing useful. could not find any way to stop it and drop into a machine language monitor, get any type of prompt, inject code to be booted, or anything else that would be useful from there. it literally just seems to be some debug messages of the bootloader(s)
1650 pages of leaked "samsung confidential" datasheet but finding how to actually -use- the things for anything 'not android' (as in registers, memory map instruction set)? nah. it's more work to figure out how samsung screwed things up and get rid of all their 'monopoly' code which they try to pass off as 'security' than to just design a new phone and order it into production
anyway, the age of the post of the resistor values doesn't matter. the values are the same for every samsung device i've tried (we only use s7's but i got boxes full of other models, including very old ones. the resistor cables work exactly the same way all of those - although the 'magic bytes' for samsungs 'modified' simg format are different for each model, as are obviously the partition sizes. and really old ones seem to use a different and incompatible version of the odin protocol alltogether). haven't tried it with those usb-c connectors on those j5/a5 or whatever those things are called, as i don't have usb-c male pcb connectors in stock, but most likely there too. it's also not very picky on the actual resistor value. 300 ohm instead of 301 is fine. as long as it's 'close enough' it'll go to the desired mode. (as their specified values are weird, you can't buy 301 ohm resistors (pretty much all of them do uart mode and turn on+odin factory mode)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I write from my phone, because I am on vacation now and can't write long messages(too lazy now). But in this guide I write how to get bootloader prompt and change kernel start command and you can change kernel and boot anything you want... I already do this to boot up normal linux. In links there are link to guy that tried to hack sboot, may be he can help you.