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Hi there,
I'm still in my internal debate of doing a tablet car install (like Galaxy Tab S2 8 inch) or getting an Android Headunit to avoid all the install struggles.
So I have been looking around on different forums for quite a while to find a REALLY working combo with an Android Head unit on Android 8.0 and a USB DAC. I would prefer an optical out DAC. Have you any positive experiences and suggestions of both models that would fit ?
I'm planning on getting a Sabre ES9010 based DAC or a Sabre ES9010K2M.
Anyone got it working with an head unit ?
By the way, I'm aware of the issues with the volume with the radio and bluetooth. I will be using a MiniDSP 6x8 with it in a MK5 golf.
i work with joying headunit + with sabre u2 dac.
the volume little loud even when i set it to one. ( i also add more step no change)
for bt call i connect a speaker to the internal amp of headunit, for me its better because my external sound processor add delay to the speakers. ( the speaker work on bt call and radio. )
if u have a physical volume is better, u can try Fain volume control v2 or Precise volume to get the volume more dynamic.
RoNeReR said:
i work with joying headunit + with sabre u2 dac.
the volume little loud even when i set it to one. ( i also add more step no change)
for bt call i connect a speaker to the internal amp of headunit, for me its better because my external sound processor add delay to the speakers. ( the speaker work on bt call and radio. )
if u have a physical volume is better, u can try Fain volume control v2 or Precise volume to get the volume more dynamic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need an Intel based joying unit. They are still being sold. Works!
Thanks for your answers. So I guess any Sabre DAC world work ! Good news.
RoNeReR said:
i work with joying headunit + with sabre u2 dac.
the volume little loud even when i set it to one. ( i also add more step no change)
for bt call i connect a speaker to the internal amp of headunit, for me its better because my external sound processor add delay to the speakers. ( the speaker work on bt call and radio. )
if u have a physical volume is better, u can try Fain volume control v2 or Precise volume to get the volume more dynamic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess I can connect both RCA out from HU to DSP swell as the Optical out. It should be quite easy to switch from one input to another and remove the delay compensation probably.
What specific model are you using from joying ?
gtxaspec said:
You need an Intel based joying unit. They are still being sold. Works!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What about other models like PX5 that contains 4GB RAM and such ? Sabre DAC are not supposed to work on ARM as well ?
Hypnox99 said:
Thanks for your answers. So I guess any Sabre DAC world work ! Good news.
I guess I can connect both RCA out from HU to DSP swell as the Optical out. It should be quite easy to switch from one input to another and remove the delay compensation probably.
What specific model are you using from joying ?
What about other models like PX5 that contains 4GB RAM and such ? Sabre DAC are not supposed to work on ARM as well ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is the software on the head unit, the 4gb models are made by a different vendor. The PX 2gb units are made by the same vendor as the Intel, so we know the USB devices work well.
gtxaspec said:
The problem is the software on the head unit, the 4gb models are made by a different vendor. The PX 2gb units are made by the same vendor as the Intel, so we know the USB devices work well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for answering me. So alright, I see. But I guess the Intel units present the same following problems like : 44.1khz/16 bit playback max, no knob volume control and some applications playing only through the HU audio chip?
Because if the 44.1khz/16 bit problem is fixable as well as all of the applications can play though the USB Dac (not mentioning radio or bt audio since I don't care of thoses so much) the Android HU will get interesting...
On another note, do theses head unit run smooth for quite while and will get Android updates? I didn't see any of the Intel based shipped with Android 8.
Still in my internal debate of tablet dash install vs Android HU vs Western brands Android Auto capable stereo...
So again thanks a lot
QUOTE-Because if the 44.1khz/16 bit problem is fixable as well as all of the applications can play though the USB Dac (not mentioning radio or bt audio since I don't care of thoses so much) the Android HU will get interesting...
On another note, do theses head unit run smooth for quite while and will get Android updates? I didn't see any of the Intel based shipped with Android 8.
--ENDQUOTE
Firstly I personally don't regard 44khz and 16bit audio as a "problem". It is more than adequate for reproduction in a vehicle with all the other attendant noise sources, especially with a window or sunroof open.
Head unit manufacturers are way way behind other Android tablet and 'phone manufacturers by the order of about 2 years. They are still selling and promoting Kit Kat head units. You probably won't see any Android 8 units for another couple of years, if you are very lucky you may find a Nougat unit to suit your vehicle.
Good hunting, Tony.
vidtek said:
QUOTE-Because if the 44.1khz/16 bit problem is fixable as well as all of the applications can play though the USB Dac (not mentioning radio or bt audio since I don't care of thoses so much) the Android HU will get interesting...
On another note, do theses head unit run smooth for quite while and will get Android updates? I didn't see any of the Intel based shipped with Android 8.
--ENDQUOTE
Firstly I personally don't regard 44khz and 16bit audio as a "problem". It is more than adequate for reproduction in a vehicle with all the other attendant noise sources, especially with a window or sunroof open.
Head unit manufacturers are way way behind other Android tablet and 'phone manufacturers by the order of about 2 years. They are still selling and promoting Kit Kat head units. You probably won't see any Android 8 units for another couple of years, if you are very lucky you may find a Nougat unit to suit your vehicle.
Good hunting, Tony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok then, the Android version does not matters that much. Seems like Android 6 is OK. Thanks.
I have been looking around and found that some people can get the HDMI out from a PX3 7.1 HU to a box that will extract the audio and feed it as optical to a DSP. Is this advisable ? I guess the volume knob will work with it and after all it will be "as good" as a USB DAC out. I understood that the problem are the converters before the RCA out...
On a side note I was thinking about Joying Intel Sofia for vw golf, I have found some Android 6 units, but can't seem to find one with HDMI out. Only Xtrons PX3 seem to have HDMI out for the units made specifically for the vw golf.
So if I understand well, when I'm using a USB DAC, only bluetooth audio and radio will go through the RCA out ? Anything else will go through the DAC ? If using on a Sofia Intel.
I have also been looking at Android Audio to USB, something like the MiniDSP USB Streamer, any thoughts ?
Many many questions again
Hypnox99 said:
Ok then, the Android version does not matters that much. Seems like Android 6 is OK. Thanks.
I have been looking around and found that some people can get the HDMI out from a PX3 7.1 HU to a box that will extract the audio and feed it as optical to a DSP. Is this advisable ? I guess the volume knob will work with it and after all it will be "as good" as a USB DAC out. I understood that the problem are the converters before the RCA out...
On a side note I was thinking about Joying Intel Sofia for vw golf, I have found some Android 6 units, but can't seem to find one with HDMI out. Only Xtrons PX3 seem to have HDMI out for the units made specifically for the vw golf.
So if I understand well, when I'm using a USB DAC, only bluetooth audio and radio will go through the RCA out ? Anything else will go through the DAC ? If using on a Sofia Intel.
I have also been looking at Android Audio to USB, something like the MiniDSP USB Streamer, any thoughts ?
Many many questions again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hypnox-
I installed a Joying in mine, a VW EOS, and since doing the Heatsink/fan modification, I have been quite satisfied with it's performance. They supply all the looms and can-bus interface to suit your model car and it is the easiest plug and play install imaginable, takes 5 minutes.
I was in the same position as you, although not as fixated on the sound fidelity I was choosing between a tablet and head unit solution. I am VERY glad I chose the head unit, the finished install looks like an OEM unit and performs with very few hiccups. See the piccies of mine below. The unit I chose was a UK-JY-VM130N2D, it has a digital amplifier and 2 MicroSD card slots on the front (I have used them with up to 128gb MicroSD cards) and most importantly for me a physical volume knob.
Cheers Tony.
vidtek said:
Hypnox-
I installed a Joying in mine, a VW EOS, and since doing the Heatsink/fan modification, I have been quite satisfied with it's performance. They supply all the looms and can-bus interface to suit your model car and it is the easiest plug and play install imaginable, takes 5 minutes.
I was in the same position as you, although not as fixated on the sound fidelity I was choosing between a tablet and head unit solution. I am VERY glad I chose the head unit, the finished install looks like an OEM unit and performs with very few hiccups. See the piccies of mine below. The unit I chose was a UK-JY-VM130N2D, it has a digital amplifier and 2 MicroSD card slots on the front (I have used them with up to 128gb MicroSD cards) and most importantly for me a physical volume knob.
Cheers Tony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I forgot to post a picture of the finished job, see below. Pic 1 is original MFD2 VW unit, pic 2 the Joying.
Tony
This is some nice unit there Thank you for your input ! By the way this is exactly the Sofia Intel based unit I have my eyes on. I will certainly make the same mod as you if I pull the trigger on this one and the integration into the dash is very sexy
I'm still trying to figure out the HDMI out audio extraction if possible on PX3 Xtrons unit... I might send Xtrons a mail, but not sure if they will reply. Also trying to know if spotify can use USB dac for audio out... Damn, finding the "somewhat" good unit is not easy task.
Hypnox99 said:
This is some nice unit there Thank you for your input ! By the way this is exactly the Sofia Intel based unit I have my eyes on. I will certainly make the same mod as you if I pull the trigger on this one and the integration into the dash is very sexy
I'm still trying to figure out the HDMI out audio extraction if possible on PX3 Xtrons unit... I might send Xtrons a mail, but not sure if they will reply. Also trying to know if spotify can use USB dac for audio out... Damn, finding the "somewhat" good unit is not easy task.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hypnox- You seem to be hypnotised (pun intended) by sound quality. I am a video/ audio engineer with 50 years experience. I have installed hundreds of home theatre hif-fi and casino/night club PA systems.
As we age, our hearing deteriorates rapidly from the age of 12 onwards. In today's world with attendant noise pollution, headphone use, aircraft and motor noise and concert visits, our hearing is far worse than previous generations at an earlier age. Most people over 30 will have difficulty hearing any signal over 12,000khz.
There is a hearing testing app in the google play store, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobile.eaudiologia&hl=en using headphone/earbuds why don't you check your own hearing before embarking on a quest for excellent sound in your equipment, you could well save yourself a bundle of dosh and a heap of time!
As we age, the viscocity of the fluid in our ears gets thicker, which is why older people hate the boom boom of bass notes youngsters love so much, it literally resounds inside our heads and is painful. Older folks turn up the treble/high equaliser settings in a vain attempt to hear those high notes we once could hear. This in turn is painful to young people who cannot stand high levels of higher frequencies, because they can actually hear them!
When you try to put a high-fidelity sound system into a car environment, you are basically pushing sh*t uphill. As soon as you open a window, all the careful measurements an audio installer makes literally goes out of the window.
My advice, forget hifi in a car, it's is a nonsense. If you must have hifi in your car, use headphones and let someone else do the driving.
Sorry for the lecture, you don't want to get me started on the monster cable and oxygen-free cable rip-offs
Cheers Tony.
vidtek said:
Hypnox- You seem to be hypnotised (pun intended) by sound quality. I am a video/ audio engineer with 50 years experience. I have installed hundreds of home theatre hif-fi and casino/night club PA systems.
As we age, our hearing deteriorates rapidly from the age of 12 onwards. In today's world with attendant noise pollution, headphone use, aircraft and motor noise and concert visits, our hearing is far worse than previous generations at an earlier age. Most people over 30 will have difficulty hearing any signal over 12,000khz.
There is a hearing testing app in the google play store, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobile.eaudiologia&hl=en using headphone/earbuds why don't you check your own hearing before embarking on a quest for excellent sound in your equipment, you could well save yourself a bundle of dosh and a heap of time!
As we age, the viscocity of the fluid in our ears gets thicker, which is why older people hate the boom boom of bass notes youngsters love so much, it literally resounds inside our heads and is painful. Older folks turn up the treble/high equaliser settings in a vain attempt to hear those high notes we once could hear. This in turn is painful to young people who cannot stand high levels of higher frequencies, because they can actually hear them!
When you try to put a high-fidelity sound system into a car environment, you are basically pushing sh*t uphill. As soon as you open a window, all the careful measurements an audio installer makes literally goes out of the window.
My advice, forget hifi in a car, it's is a nonsense. If you must have hifi in your car, use headphones and let someone else do the driving.
Sorry for the lecture, you don't want to get me started on the monster cable and oxygen-free cable rip-offs
Cheers Tony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand your point of view, I certainly don't have the same Audio background as you.
However I'm 28 and a music producer and I can certainly tell the difference between pairs of monitoring speaker. Through the years (still a lot to learn though) I have developed my hear in mixing sessions. And I have a passion for listening to music as well.
I have replaced the stock HU of my car with a 100$ Sony last year and I can tell straight away the difference in sound quality. I also made an audio car install on another car and the difference between the stock system is stunning.
Here, I just want to have a decent audio quality, I know that in car audio there is some serious diminishing return when you build your system.
If you take a look on XDA and like diymobileaudio, you will find hundreds of threads stating that the audio quality is poor even in a car...
You know, If for 50$ I can get a DAC working pretty well with it and that it won't crush the audio quality, I'm all for it
Hypnox99 said:
I understand your point of view, I certainly don't have the same Audio background as you.
However I'm 28 and a music producer and I can certainly tell the difference between pairs of monitoring speaker. Through the years (still a lot to learn though) I have developed my hear in mixing sessions. And I have a passion for listening to music as well.
I have replaced the stock HU of my car with a 100$ Sony last year and I can tell straight away the difference in sound quality. I also made an audio car install on another car and the difference between the stock system is stunning.
Here, I just want to have a decent audio quality, I know that in car audio there is some serious diminishing return when you build your system.
If you take a look on XDA and like diymobileaudio, you will find hundreds of threads stating that the audio quality is poor even in a car...
You know, If for 50$ I can get a DAC working pretty well with it and that it won't crush the audio quality, I'm all for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hypnox- OK at 28 your hearing will be far superior to mine-especially as in my mis-spent youth I was in a rock band before health and safety went bananas, we always used the same stage layout so my right ear is shall we say, less than perfect?
I just hate to see people spending money on a system which as you say is subject to the law of diminishing returns when they could be spending it on other leisure pursuits, or food and housing.....
As long as you get a system that floats your boat and you personally are satisfied, who can gainsay that?
Good luck to you, Tony.
Bump. Would love to get an update on the status of that quest of knowledge.
Please can someone help? I really want (as many of you) to use an external DAC (standard PCM2704) with and android HU. It works with my Android 5.1 Tablet but I am really looking for a compatible HU.
Do you have a model that works with USB DAC? I want a recent one available to buy on market.
Thanks
Lets make this Thread a nice help for everyone
So here is my DAC setup and I can say that the sound is so much better. And with an external eq, it is easy to have access to the Bluetooth and the other things you have inside you Head Units until we find a way to send all the signal to the DAC !!!
First of all,
My head Unit is a: XTRONS TE706PL
To go the DAC way, I brought a preamp CLARION EQS755 and an AudioQuest DRAGONFLY RED
The only problem was that I was getting Pops and bizarre sound out of the signal chain.
I get a AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub and I now connect the DAC and the POPS are almost gone now ( it was a current problem i guess ) Only some bizarre sound comes now and then Flash drive is loading. ( only in DAC MODE )
Upgrade for the future
AUDIOQUEST JITTERBUG will change for the IFI ISILENCER
CHORD MOJO or something in that caliber as an EXTERNAL DAC. ( in about 5 month ) as i need some money
I did a some video to show you the difference in quality and the pops I am talking about
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LEBDARV6GRV_wF3pInB1fgjwm4Aw8Gbf
UPDATED
Just receive my IFI ISILENCER , I can say that the sound is about 1 to 4 % better with it. I test it in my car and in my house. It kinda makes a difference but you need to really focus to hear it.
I still have that computer distortion coming from both my HEAD UNIT and my main computer. ( this have to be regularize before the current goes to the head unit I guess )
have a good day.
Have a good day everyone !
Did anyone figure out a way to get the android volum control to turn up and down the usb audio output. ??
Hi all. Id thought Id start another thread regarding the SQ of this device.
Iv always used Alpine Head Units for last 20 years but bit the bullet and bought this device to try and bring my ICE into the future a bit.
My system is HU - RCA's - C-DSP6x8 - RCA's - 3xJL amps - Focal Utopias (6w2/TN51)/2x JL ZR800's/1x JL 13W3
+ a shed load of experience with Room EQ wizard and at least 2 years of my life I won't get back!
In comparison I can say the SQ of the pumpkin sucks, also a bit of ground noise I never had before.
Will a USB DAC work with this unit?
Which one? I read a thread where someone used a USB to SPDIF converter board with Texas instruments chip on board, very simple which is good and cost less than a tenner from Amazon! then there's dragonfly dongles, then there's miniDSP's MiniDAC8. Price range between £10 & £200
Also I was always under the impression if you use a digital signal from your source unit you cannot control the volume from that source unit as bits and bytes cannot be attenuated so the volume control would be from the DSP(via the wired remote)
Can anyone suggest a tried and tested setup for getting a clean signal from this source to my DSP that wont break the bank, (Bit One out of the question) I think Iv spent enough on my system now as its probably worth more than my car! (B7 audi a4 3.0tdi)
Thanks
ps I am a complete Android programming noob but can learn with a bit of help
from Lollipop there is dac native support on all devices, so it should work.
in joying headunit the radio and bluetooth not work with the dac, u can add small speaker for the bt, or connect another rca pair to the sound processor if the pumpkin also suffer this problem.
i recommend the hifimediy, be aware that spdif its digital connection so its really not important which dac u choose , the conversion from analog to digital will process on your c-dsp
u can see dac support here:
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/technology/usb-audio-driver
Hi and thanks for reply. I looked at the DAC you use and read through that link. Another good thing about the external DAC is any analogue ground noise from the device should be isolated. There is ground noise on this units RCA outputs (to be expected on a device in this price range) once you rig up the bluetooth/radio via rca's anywhere into the chain that noise will be re-introduced. I'm not sure there's a way round this issue but its a minor one.
The HiFimeDIY also has spdif out so if connecting to my DSP with digital coax I assume the volume pot wouldn't work? Not a problem since any DAC will have it own analogue volume control I can use the master volume (after DSP). Still if I connected BT/radio via RCA that volume would be controlled by the device. Unless somehow I set everything up for max volume and use just the master to control everything. I have a lot more learning experimenting ahead!
This could be a deal breaker:- Will spotify ouput be routed through the DAC?
mamba76 said:
Hi and thanks for reply. I looked at the DAC you use and read through that link. Another good thing about the external DAC is any analogue ground noise from the device should be isolated. There is ground noise on this units RCA outputs (to be expected on a device in this price range) once you rig up the bluetooth/radio via rca's anywhere into the chain that noise will be re-introduced. I'm not sure there's a way round this issue but its a minor one.
The HiFimeDIY also has spdif out so if connecting to my DSP with digital coax I assume the volume pot wouldn't work? Not a problem since any DAC will have it own analogue volume control I can use the master volume (after DSP). Still if I connected BT/radio via RCA that volume would be controlled by the device. Unless somehow I set everything up for max volume and use just the master to control everything. I have a lot more learning experimenting ahead!
This could be a deal breaker:- Will spotify ouput be routed through the DAC?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it will.
Thx GTX its got be worth pursuing then
The model of my unit is AE0273B on autopumpkin. Does anyone know for sure that BT/radio/DAB wouldn't be routed through a USB DAC? Would be interesting to know why?
Should I be looking to root this so I can have Viper4Android installed or Neutron player? I just want to unlock the potential for quality audio out, I dont need to tweek the signal or colour it I would like the output flat but a good PEQ app would be helpful.
Using a multimeter and oscilloscope I swept a pure 0db sine wave through the Alpine and the AC voltage from the pre-out only deviated by about 0.01vac from 30hz upto 10k then it climbed a bit more. Done same thing on the Pumpkin and highest unclipped Vac is 1.2vac at 1khz, at 30hz it dropped to 0.5v and same with higher frequencies, just like a sad smile lol. I want a DAC with a flat frequency response and a 4volt pre-out.
The floor noise / ground noise was made worse because I had to increase input gain cos of the crappy pre-outs.
I could do with some help customizing this for quality audio so if anyone's in the same boat and wants to trade ideas Im open to test things on my device and help out where I can.
what apps & DAC's work for you? digital or analogue cabling? What DSPs? Anything regarding SQ is interesting to me
I think Iv taken one step forward and 2 steps back but I'm committed now lol.
Just found and read through this thread - https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...io-problems-discussion-thread-t3657637/page11
Aluver seems to be able to fix this issue.
The pumpkin is still a great bit of kit for the price and to be fair I used the buggy built in amplifier app to adjust the eq to a V shape, pulling down 1khz (in the middle)as the lowest point (-6db) and as no surprise I think this has cured the problem this HU caused with the SQ. At low volume my target curve in REW appeared the same its only at high volume when the pre-amp output deviations are at their most extreme (sad smile) which is why it sounded too harsh.
Im really not sure if I would be able to tell the difference from a 100% digital system with high quality DAC and my old alpine setup but it does solve a few problems.
Still have excessive ground noise and amp pop when ignition turned off (never had before) so not sure if Ill be keeping this unit, so maybe up for UK sale in near future!
Really interesting thread, are you planning to buy the DAC finally ? It would be interesting to try a DAC, just to get rid of the ground noise for example.
Seeing your setup, if the source has crappy output you will hear it right away so your EQ modification is quite surprising that it improves the quality that much ! I'm still thinking about pulling the trigger on a model similar as you but very afraid of sound quality. Still trying to decide between Joying Intel or Xtrons PX5
Im going to give it a bit more time to see if I can get it to behave. Iv has this set up with the alpine for a couple of years and am always tweaking / improving so Im very aware of any change. If it hurts your ears at high volume then somethings wrong. The alpine's FR was completely flat and clips just over 2v, the pumpkin clips at different voltages (max 1.3v) but on this unit anything above vol 20 with pure tones will clip, its just a pain in the ass but if you always eq your car with high volume in mind for me that's where it matters. Dont rely on tone generator apps their 0db is not accurate I burnt the test wave files from JL audio website to CD as a reference then match it with Room EQs generator so can sweep any frequency.
Yeah Im gonna look for a DAC would be nice if you could control the DACs volume from steering wheel! And the auto switching rca's it doable or might as well go digital to dsp not sure yet its all a bit of a headache lol, but the units capabilities makes it worth trying. I will post any solutions on here if I find them but may be some time.
Im still trying to work out what this unit gives me that an alpine ilx-f903 (or similar) won't, apart from alot of spare change!
Im sure Iv read pros and cons for either them units but don't know enough about whats inside. I know mines a px5. I would be looking for something that can output everything through USB but not sure it exists.
ordered a minidsp usb streamer from amazon £60 delivered +van damme digi cable. First step see what it does out of the box then install 'USB Audio Driver Pro' app which will bypass the native android drivers??
I think this requires usb debugging mode to be enabled in developer options.
I found a switching module that might come in handy - https://www.tindie.com/products/Beni_Skate/automatic-spdif-opticalrca-audio-switch/#product-reviews
If anyone understands what Im trying to do and can foresee what needs to be done regarding operating system changes I would definately appreciate any advice as Iv no experience at all with the programming side of things i.e changing audio policies, etc...
I should be playing with this again at weekend if all the bits arrive
RoNeReR said:
from Lollipop there is dac native support on all devices, so it should work.
in joying headunit the radio and bluetooth not work with the dac, u can add small speaker for the bt, or connect another rca pair to the sound processor if the pumpkin also suffer this problem.
i recommend the hifimediy, be aware that spdif its digital connection so its really not important which dac u choose , the conversion from analog to digital will process on your c-dsp
u can see dac support here:
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/technology/usb-audio-driver
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi RoNeReR. I see your usb dac outputs on analogue rca's. Do you still control the volume from the pumpkin?
Thx
Well as promised I will update this thread with my progress to get my system setup with the pumpkin.
I got my mini streamer but digi cable not arrived yet.
So I enabled developer options which was easy but couldn't find the menu anywhere afterwards, eventually downloaded an app call 'developer options' which does what is says on the tin. I found usb debugging mode was already on then went to 'usb configuration' and set to 'Audio'. Plugged in my ministream and was expecting the audio from spotify to go quiet as is should now be trying to route through the streamer but it didn't appear to change anything. I get a feeling when I eventually get the cable and connect to the dsp I will still have nothing. Anyone know what else I need to do to make audio goes through USB? ASIO drivers?
As I said Iv no experience with android OS but Im learning more and more things, so happy days!
mamba76 said:
Well as promised I will update this thread with my progress to get my system setup with the pumpkin.
I got my mini streamer but digi cable not arrived yet.
So I enabled developer options which was easy but couldn't find the menu anywhere afterwards, eventually downloaded an app call 'developer options' which does what is says on the tin. I found usb debugging mode was already on then went to 'usb configuration' and set to 'Audio'. Plugged in my ministream and was expecting the audio from spotify to go quiet as is should now be trying to route through the streamer but it didn't appear to change anything. I get a feeling when I eventually get the cable and connect to the dsp I will still have nothing. Anyone know what else I need to do to make audio goes through USB? ASIO drivers?
As I said Iv no experience with android OS but Im learning more and more things, so happy days!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is the software and hardware combination needs modifications (software) to generally work. We have this working on the joying Intel, and hopefully soon on the joying px5 (FYT based) units. Nother brands might not be possible depending on the original manufacturers programming.
If other users with your unit, maybe they have experience. Generally only working on the joying with Xposed properly.
gtxaspec said:
The problem is the software and hardware combination needs modifications (software) to generally work. We have this working on the joying Intel, and hopefully soon on the joying px5 (FYT based) units. Nother brands might not be possible depending on the original manufacturers programming.
If other users with your unit, maybe they have experience. Generally only working on the joying with Xposed properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see. I read a post where 'Aluver' says he got usb output working on app media and usb fobs but not on BT/radio/DAB (which went throught the MCU instead of DAC?) so assumed it was doable with a few changes to audio policy. Thinking about it not sure if the thread was referring to my HW/SW. Ill read the thread again but got lost in the jargen which I half understand.
So it looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till someone works out a fix.
So PX5 is the hardware and Oreo the software. Whats FYT based? Can this unit be rooted easily yet?
Thanks
mamba76 said:
I see. I read a post where 'Aluver' says he got usb output working on app media and usb fobs but not on BT/radio/DAB (which went throught the MCU instead of DAC?) so assumed it was doable with a few changes to audio policy. Thinking about it not sure if the thread was referring to my HW/SW. Ill read the thread again but got lost in the jargen which I half understand.
So it looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till someone works out a fix.
So PX5 is the hardware and Oreo the software. Whats FYT based? Can this unit be rooted easily yet?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there any car android devices out there, chinese or otherwise, that allow for routing ALL audio digitally?
Any HW/SW setups know to work?
What about the latest 'NewsMy NR3001'?
mamba76 said:
I see. I read a post where 'Aluver' says he got usb output working on app media and usb fobs but not on BT/radio/DAB (which went throught the MCU instead of DAC?) so assumed it was doable with a few changes to audio policy. Thinking about it not sure if the thread was referring to my HW/SW. Ill read the thread again but got lost in the jargen which I half understand.
So it looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till someone works out a fix.
So PX5 is the hardware and Oreo the software. Whats FYT based? Can this unit be rooted easily yet?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYT is the OEM manufacturer for the system on module (SoM) that powers certain head units (that contains the CPU and memory etc)
Px5 is the CPU made by rockchips.
gtxaspec said:
FYT is the OEM manufacturer for the system on module (SoM) that powers certain head units (that contains the CPU and memory etc)
Px5 is the CPU made by rockchips.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whats the model of Joying intel you have working? I assume there is still the problem of bluetooth / voice & radio still not being routed through USB on this as well?
I connected my XP laptop to the ministreamer then to DSP (with vanne dam spdif coax) and played some flac files and it sounds great, noise floor is zero! Shame I cant find a device other than my phone to output a dam digital signal for everything!:crying:!
PS: Android 8 Oreo + all extras for sale... £200 anyone?? (comes with dabonwheels DAB external whip aerial, original in dustbin) Will drop in a B6 / B7 Audi A4 like factory does.
mamba76 said:
Whats the model of Joying intel you have working? I assume there is still the problem of bluetooth / voice & radio still not being routed through USB on this as well?
I connected my XP laptop to the ministreamer then to DSP (with vanne dam spdif coax) and played some flac files and it sounds great, noise floor is zero! Shame I cant find a device other than my phone to output a dam digital signal for everything!:crying:!
PS: Android 8 Oreo + all extras for sale... £200 anyone?? (comes with dabonwheels DAB external whip aerial, original in dustbin) Will drop in a B6 / B7 Audi A4 like factory does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the joying Intel that fits into the b7 a4 as well. On their site, and yeah no radio or Bluetooth yet via dsp.
mamba76 said:
Whats the model of Joying intel you have working? I assume there is still the problem of bluetooth / voice & radio still not being routed through USB on this as well?
I connected my XP laptop to the ministreamer then to DSP (with vanne dam spdif coax) and played some flac files and it sounds great, noise floor is zero! Shame I cant find a device other than my phone to output a dam digital signal for everything!:crying:!
PS: Android 8 Oreo + all extras for sale... £200 anyone?? (comes with dabonwheels DAB external whip aerial, original in dustbin) Will drop in a B6 / B7 Audi A4 like factory does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh too bad you can't even get the spotify output on the dac? Did you try another dac like hifimediy using optical cable?
gtxaspec said:
I have the joying Intel that fits into the b7 a4 as well. On their site, and yeah no radio or Bluetooth yet via dsp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info gtx.. You know a hell of a lot more than me on these things. If you could suggest a head unit thats a safe bet for what Im trying to do Id appreciate any links / model numbers. I bet there's more than one joying intel out there and dont want to make the same mistake twice
Hypnox99 said:
Oh too bad you can't even get the spotify output on the dac? Did you try another dac like hifimediy using optical cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi. its not the dac thats the problem its that no one can get the output through the usb cable to start with. At least not yet but sure some very clever ppl on here will figure it out:fingers-crossed:
Hi all,
New member but long time observer.
I’m finally dipping my toe into the Android Headunit waters, and will use this as a log of what I get up to as well as the many questions I will have due to finding it quite difficult to source specific info on a good-sounding setup in my generation of VW Polo (6C).
My setup will initially entail a current VW-specific Joying HU running the intel chip, Android 8, and 4gb of ram, all the while using the supplied cabling to connect to the factory speaker and CANBUS looms.
I’ve chosen this HU because of its SPDIF output, and will eventually run it to a converter so I can output an optical signal to a Audison amplifier for the best possible signal.
From there I will use the amp to run a set of Morel front splits and rear coax.
I have a Focal sub, but another dedicated amp and enclosure will be required. So this will happen later.
So for now I’ll install the Morel splits and HU, and progress from there. .
My first question: whats the most responsive OBD2 transmitter that you would recommend to use with this HU?
And does anyone know what the new gen Joying HU RCA voltage is?
Cheers in advance!
From what I have read Joying is having issues with OBD2 on the new HU's. They are working on it and are going to come out with new firmware.
If you are using the SPDIF output then the voltage on the RCA doesn't matter, but it's pretty low. If you have even a somewhat ok amp then it won't matter much. Even crappy amps can handle low voltage from the RCA's.
kouklo said:
From what I have read Joying is having issues with OBD2 on the new HU's. They are working on it and are going to come out with new firmware.
If you are using the SPDIF output then the voltage on the RCA doesn't matter, but it's pretty low. If you have even a somewhat ok amp then it won't matter much. Even crappy amps can handle low voltage from the RCA's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know re the firmware, but if it’s being fixed, then I’ll persist in finding a good OBD2 transmitter.
And yep, I’m aware the RCA’s won’t be used if I can use the SPDIF output, but I’m preparing just in case.
Hey all,
Does anyone know how to make the factory reverse camera work with the new Joying units?
Is it simply a case of splicing the cable from the rear camera and soldering on an RCA plug?
Cheers!
BCK_Phoenix said:
Hey all,
Does anyone know how to make the factory reverse camera work with the new Joying units?
Is it simply a case of splicing the cable from the rear camera and soldering on an RCA plug?
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe?: https://avinusa.com/volkswagen-factory-backup-camera-rgb-to-rca-converter.html
Hi all, I have an Australian 2011 Kia Sportage Platinum model - I think it was SX / highest spec model in other countries. Apparently the Australian car in 2011 was a little unique in that it had a 6 stack CD but no sat nav on the head unit. There is a factory digital amp and sub woofer located in the rear. As much as I have attempted to get this fact across to suppliers on Aliexpress, I am sure they did not fully understand and have suggested I only need a CAMBUS and I am good to go.
As you can see with the pinout for my radio on connector A I have SPDIF ground, DN and DP. So it is a discrete signal to the amp that decodes what I assume is PCM and then sends it off to the speakers. I have a few questions:
1. Before I install the 7862 Unit, I will check voltage out from Pins 6 and 15 on my factory radio with sound on. I assume this will be less than 5 volts. as per SPDIF coax spec. I will then connect up the 7862 unit, plug in an RCA to the COAX SPDIF out and check voltage. If the wiring loom that I have been sent doesn't work, this COAX out feed fed into my car's wiring loom along with a 12v signal on pin 14 (remote AMP) will get me started. Any thoughts?
2. On Connector A of my original head unit, there are the SPDIF outs but why are there also speaker outs for front and rear left and right if there is a digital signal to the amp? Does this mean that the amp is only feeding the sub woofer and that the fronts and rears are fed directly from the head unit? It seems very strange to me.
3. PIN 9 on Connector A is DETENT. What is that? PIN 14 is Remote AMP. Is this a 12v line to wake up the amp?
4. Chinese Unit wiring shows a CANBUS but I am unsure is the CANBUS has an analog to digital converter? Can anyone shed light on this?
I appreciate any assistance you can offer.
This could help regarding SPDIF: https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/help-spdif-preamp-input-nav-premium.106094/
Are you sure the China head unit has an SPDIF output?
I think your OEM radio supports both. SPDIF and analog output. Or there is a cheaper variant available which only supports analog output. You don't need this connectors when using SPDIF.
I don't know Detent but in another forum they just ignored this pin.
Remote Amp is 12v signal for the amplifier. So you're right.
The canbus converts digital signals from your car to the radio. E.g. Translates the steering wheel buttons to a signal the head unit can interpret.
Hi, thanks for the link.
I am sure the chinese unit I purchased has SPDIF out via TOSLINK and coax but not through the main head unit wiring.
There definately is a cheaper model of my vehicle that didn't have a digital amp but I am suprised that there is both direct digital signal to the amp as well as direct wiring to the speakers. It is very confusing.
I understand CANBUS has a high and low signal but I wasn't sure if they specifically also change digital audio signals as well as well as the standard CAN signals.
I believe some CANBUS may handle both the CAN high / low transfer and have the ability to to convert the analog signal out of the android head unit to an SPDIF line level PCM (assumed) signal that my amp needs.
I guess this is not a common subject here. I might have to wait and do a fair bit of testing before I install.
Connecting a china head unit can be a real challenge, especially because there is zero support from the seller.
I've seen the amplifier has separate inputs for navigation voice (pin 9 and 23). Sorry for the German link:
Kia Sportage - Externer verstärker Bauteile und bauteile-Übersicht - AVN-System
Maybe some audio signals will be transferred analog. You could connect the new device without the analog audio connections to check if they are really required.
Can't help you regarding CANBUS but I hope you keep us updated and give some updates of your "project".
Maybe you're interested:
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com
Thanks again. The problem I have is that my head unit has SPDIF out, USB out rear cam out but all connected to the two white plugs. This unit seems different to all the US, Europe and other Asia models. It might be why I am getting so many blank stares.
I'm even having trouble finding an Australian edition of the wiring diagrams.
Your helpful link to the QL model German manual also has an SL model which is my model. Unfortunately my radio is not amongst the option in the manual. I see radios offer Sirrus so I am assuming that is a US model.
I might just need to go back to first principals and really understand my head unit before I do any installing. How is your install going?
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter. But I wasn't able to find the wringing diagram with the model name of the device.
I have a Kia and finally the needed wiring diagram was from a Hiunday device. Someone crosslinked from a Kia forum to a Hiunday forum.
I had to completely re-wire and enhance the black plug of the China head unit because AUX and MIC are separate outputs on the China nav unit.
On the other side I had to remove USB from the black connector because this is a separate plug in the Kia.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
grassrootsmotorsports.com
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
TorstenH said:
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is still a little mystery for me, but I will work it out.
TorstenH said:
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were lucky to have the option to eliminate 2 of the 3 wiring diagrams. I will do the same before I start wiring the new HU.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I will be doing a double check of everything.
I *think* that I have worked out why there is SPDIF line level + and - to the amp as well as wiring direct to the speakers from the factory HU.
I *think* that when I use and AUX input from USB or 3.5mm which is analog input, the factory headunit does no conversion and just amplifies the analog signal and sends it to the 4 main speakers. It will be simple to check this.
If I am correct, only CD and radio singal gets converted to digital line level SPDIF PCM then gets sent to the amp.
As my radio has a COAX SPDIF out, I might be able to make a single RCA to double RCA cable to send the signal to the amp. Or I might just patch in the SPDIF COAX RCA into the main ISO plug directly. I think having the COAX SPDIF out from my new HU will give me a lot more option.
I need to check if the CANBUS converts the analog signal to SPDIF line level or if the Chinese wiring just bypasses the amp and sub woofer or does something else again.
My new HU will arrive tomorrow of Monday so I will get time to study the wiring and make some checks. I will be sure to document all of the things I find. I just need to make the time to do it.
Well after a quick plug in and test, I am not getting any signal to amp regardless of how well I have followed the supplier's suggestions.
I think the standard signal to the amp id not happening so the amp is not waking up.
Canbus is for a 2015 Sportage but steering wheel options work with the volume working in opposite.
Will investigate more tomorrow.
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
ludditefornow said:
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
TorstenH said:
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is that function and I did try to use it. I was long pressing on the physical button before pressing the on screen as suggested but there was no change. I assumed the button remap is only useful for non Canbus driven buttons. I could be wrong, though.
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too would like a full understanding of the sleep function. Things like when sleep starts, when shut down starts etc would be useful.
ludditefornow said:
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you got this sorted. If not, have you tried this?
ludditefornow said:
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Storrsy said:
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
ludditefornow said:
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Success!!! I was able to get the amp working thanks to this thread. I was also able to get the camera working by splicing the 'unused' green reverse wire from the supplied harness to the brown reverse signal wire in the CANBUS connection. (I noted that in the some of the offical images the wire was pink.)
Peeps, did you have to connect the remote amp (12v positive?) or SPDIF ground (12v negative?) I’m almost there just no sound.. I’ve connected coax out to pins 6&15 but nothing
From the modifed coax cable coming out of your head unit, what voltage are you getting on either wire when playing audio?
If you aren't getting a signal, then there is a software setting (that I can't think of right now) or another issue.
And I have not connected the remote amp wire. Clear photos help a lot if you have followup questions.
Zero volts
Then the headunit is not passing a signal to the spdif RCA out for some reason
Hi all
First, I'm not English, I'm from France and I apologize for my poor English.
I recently purchased a Head unit for my Opel Antara car.
I think it's a Chinese one, I bought it on a french website.
Everything work but I have a problem with the sound, I will try to explain it.
There is no dsp in it and there is an eq but only the music app.
On the radio I have only treble, but on the music app, I hear some little bass. When I go the the eq and max the bass, I hear it but very bad quality.
I don't know how to make the bass work.
Before, an Android head unit was installed too but there was no bass to...
Wiring is good.
I post you a photo , maybe it can help you.
Thanks for your help.
Oh and the link where I bought it.
https://www.cdiscount.com/auto/gps-car-audio-electronique/autoradio-android-pour-opel-gps-7-pouces-ecran-ta/f-133164801-oss0787937334681.html
Does it have crossover settings?
lowridincrew said:
Does it have crossover settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I just have in the setting to get more sound left or right, called fader I think
Virbolix said:
Nope, I just have in the setting to get more sound left or right, called fader I think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats the main issue, you can't adjust the crossover on any of the speakers. I'm not quite sure if you could flash any operating system to it to give it a better eq and crossover but check your options based on your build
Notice the OP said:
"Before, an Android head unit was installed too but there was no bass to.."
So it is not a fault of the current head unit, there will be something that has been overlooked, maybe power switching for a bass amplifier or wiring for low frequency speakers. We'd need information about the rest of the system in the car to make any useful suggestions.
Mr.TT_NZ said:
Notice the OP said:
"Before, an Android head unit was installed too but there was no bass to.."
So it is not a fault of the current head unit, there will be something that has been overlooked, maybe power switching for a bass amplifier or wiring for low frequency speakers. We'd need information about the rest of the system in the car to make any useful suggestions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What informations do you need?
My car model is an Opel Antara Cosmo Pack from 2007.
On the doors I have 1 big speaker (bass come from it) and one little where I hear treble.
I have one center on the dashboard too.
I don't know if there is an amplifier in the car already.
I link you the wires behind the head unit.
If needed I can take other photos
Thanks for your help.
Oh and the rear speakers don't work too
I'm not sure I can help more, but from what you've told me I'd be almost certain there will be an amplifier somewhere in the car and it is not getting either power or signals or both. hopefully someone here may know the model of car and share some knowledge of the systems that will be installed and thus how to make the necessary connections. Have you approached the Opel dealers to see if they have any documentation that could help? There may also be some tie-up with the car's CANBUS system.
On my FYT unit with an DSP, enabling "LOUD" (loudness management?) Made a tremendous difference, do you have such option hidden somewhere?
Kwen said:
On my FYT unit with an DSP, enabling "LOUD" (loudness management?) Made a tremendous difference, do you have such option hidden somewhere?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Only in the Music App, but when I activate it's very terrible bass
If your rear-speaker are not working, and you have a center speaker in the dash, there is a OEM amplifier in there, or has been fired by the OEM radio and the only connection which is missing is the power connection to the OEM amplifier.
You need to talk with some guy of a car-hifi shop. That is nothing we can support, if you even don´t know what is built in there.
By the way... the OEM speakers are just crap. Don´t expect any good sound with their paper membranes. First try to find the amplifier, the connections to it and may be you need a different CAN-Box.
That needs all to be verified by someone who is able to.
rigattoni said:
If your rear-speaker are not working, and you have a center speaker in the dash, there is a OEM amplifier in there, or has been fired by the OEM radio and the only connection which is missing is the power connection to the OEM amplifier.
You need to talk with some guy of a car-hifi shop. That is nothing we can support, if you even don´t know what is built in there.
By the way... the OEM speakers are just crap. Don´t expect any good sound with their paper membranes. First try to find the amplifier, the connections to it and may be you need a different CAN-Box.
That needs all to be verified by someone who is able to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh ok,thank you, I will do this.
I just did some Googling, and from that it does not sound like there's any amplifier in those cars so my first impression is probably incorrect, they mention 7 speakers but only 4*20 watt outputs on the factory unit so I think that will be front woofers *2, front tweeters *2 (probably just fed via capacitors from the woofers), rear full range speakers *2 and the centre front speaker will be just for vehicle warnings and sounds (like the direction flasher clicks, for example).
I'm tending now to incorrect connection of the speakers to the HU. OP did you just copy what was done with the other Android unit which you said also had the problem and was likely wrong, or did you go through and check each speaker's wiring individually and ensure correct connection? You should check each speaker except the tweeters by using a 1.5 volt cell and a pair of wires to identify correctly the wires from each one and which is the positive terminal of each so that you get correct phasing.
Who installed the previous Android unit? Were they familiar with audio installations?
If you were here I'd offer to look for you, but I think we're in very different countries.
Further thoughts, we may be making an incorrect assumption that the speakers are in good condition. They may have been damaged by someone or something previously.
Using the 1.5 volt cell as I mentioned, you should get a good rich sounding thump each time you make or break the connection. If you get only a thin scratchy sound or no sound at all then the speakers are damaged, or vaguely possible the wiring to them is damaged in some way, perhaps a short to ground.
Don't worry, you can't harm speakers with 1.5 volts, that is far less power than a 20 watt output gives them.