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I have an XDA Neo whose soft buttons haven't been working for quite a while and I cannot find a right moment to send it for repair. But I suspect it's the dust that has made its way beneath
But the bolts are so strange, I cannot unscrew them with anything - screwdrivers, knives I tried - nothing helps
Any suggestions?
this is easy you need a torx 6 screwdriver good luck
10x a lot
Look no further..
http://www.modaco.com/Changing-you-prophet-caseand33-t240109.html
Attention to side plugs...
Yes that's torx 6. It's rare but available in some stores.
But it's not over. There are some steps which need special care. Otherwise you may break some fragile parts of the body. I dismentled 2 times completely but i broke some plastic ears on the sides and the screws are not enough to come back to a tight fixing. Some spaces remian on the sides if you break the small ears while disassembling.
The steps, roughly:
1- Pull out battery, sim card.
2- Unplug upper rear cover (not necessary to unplg the antenna cover) starting from top, then bottom. Pushing 2 ears at left and righ side of the bottom is enough.
3- Unscrew 4 x torx6
4- Pull out front frame by unplugging side ears surrounding the whole frame but PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO KEEPING THE EARS UNDAMAGED. The frame is still connected to the board and the speaker. So separate it slightly, not too much.
5- Unplug the speaker unit by pushing its caoutchouc frame and slide it through the hole to free the rear frame. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISCONNECT THE SPEAKER SOCKET. IT'S DANGEROUS AND NOT NECESSARY.
6- Pull out the camera. Its body is not fixed but only pushed into its frame. Pay attention while disconnecting its cable.
7- Unplug the keypad socket by pushing upside from sides. It's fragile but not too difficult.
8- Unscrew 4 little screws. One may be masked by a spacer. You can push it the access the screw.
9- Unplug the AC connector if necessary. Not screwed. So, you can get manually.
10-Pull out the keypad towards the rear of the phone. It will not come very easyly. Find the right angle. It's not necessary to pull out the white cover but you can do this if you want.
I write this using what i remember. I may forgot some small details but the order should be correct.
Finally don't use battery screwdrivers on a/m screws. The torque will be too strong and may destroy the plastic holes. You can unscrew but don't screw.
Thanks a lot man. I know it's dangerous, so want to be extremely careful. But some people told me that doing this can break my warranty because some of some manufacturer sticker being damaged. Is that true?
Yes, Warranty Voids If Dismantled
Yes indeed. One of 4 torx screws is covered by a warranty label. You have to destroy it to unscrew.
I did it because i never trust warranty issues on PDAs, at least in my country. Mine was fallen on its upper left corner and the body has taken a good crash make-up! It's 100% sure that u have no warranty because of user fault.
So, i dismantled and tried to repair the cover like a garage man works on a crushed car. Result: Not bad. Better than nothing. Some painting has gone. I add a silicon case on the device and everybody's happy.
Hi. Can anyone help me identify where a part comes from? I took apart my Prophet because of the amount of dust it in and the very irregular digitiser calibration. This is much better but I seem to have a piece left over and I don't know where it should go. I think it must be something to do with the phone antenna as I have very poor telephone reception since.
can u post a pic of the top end of the circle? can't really make out what it is. didn't have this problem when i opened my case
Hi, thanks for taking an interest. Here's another couple of shots.
Richard
i'm kinda guessing that it's the external antenna? u know the 1 with the rubber circle at the back of the pda? can't seem to find my tools atm to see what it actually is...
Yes, I am sure you are right - I will get my tools out and have another play with it. I may find an obvious place where the antenna goes which will fit the part in.
Well I feel pretty silly now. I took the Prophet apart and realised that this part was just a mount which the long screws screw into. One mount had come loose so I superglued it in and the screw firmly screws in now, making the whole device hold together better.
part
Richard Fantom said:
Hi, thanks for taking an interest. Here's another couple of shots.
Richard
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i think that part is below the antenna cap
Richard Fantom said:
Well I feel pretty silly now. I took the Prophet apart and realised that this part was just a mount which the long screws screw into. One mount had come loose so I superglued it in and the screw firmly screws in now, making the whole device hold together better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hahahah... well, it did look like the ext antenna part to my eyes... heheheh glad you know what it is now
Had two damaged screen's bought replacement on eBay and both were perfect but the tools that come with them are cheap crap so don't rely on them especially the scraping tool
You need a tri wing screw driver and most importantly that saw on no forums or videos a heat gun. Bought mine for 14 and did the job perfectly as long as it goes to 500c or 1030f you should be fine.
Remove sd and sim card first
STEP ONE
Remove the screw covers on either side of the speakers, compass or paper clip will do the job, them with tri wing unscrew the two screws an put in box, careful they are tricky little feckers and you could be searching on the ground for awihle.
Step two
With the cheap crap tool that they supply a few use them All after they break to remove the seal around the edge of the screen and the case, start at v the bottom and careful of the volume rocker buttons.
Then keep on going around till there is give on all sides, then reverse the tool and pry then casing away. After a few moments of fiddling get small flat head or small spatula to pry more. Then it should lift of with help.
STEP THREE
There is seven screws and six clips to remove and the videos on you tube are excellent help here and removing battery and mother board which is all nice and easy.
But the hard bit is taking the screen off, don't even bother attempting this with out a heat gun that doesn't come close to temp above, no point this glue is brilliant.
With the gun you move around the edges for good few moments two maybe three mins then with spatula gently stick between the black glue v screen and the grey casing, you have to be careful as this gets hot after the gun and you don't want to push the spatula to much cause you could damage the digitizer.
After wrestling for another few mins it comes of. First one I did was real messy, but the second just used heat gun for another twenty thirty seconds in stubborn areas then it was fine.
Once the screen was removed make sure the glue tape is removed from the casing and let it cool down for few mins then apply the new one, I positioned it between my thumbs and bottom of the screen both times and had no issue's.
Then reverse the process and have brand new device
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Introduction:
When a button mechanically clicks, that is the signal to you that you've done your part and you should expect the button to do its part. While I've seen this on several other devices, the Nexus7 2013 apparently has a widespread problem which manifests itself in "having to press the power button a certain way". This is caused by the glue used to assemble the buttons having seeped under the contacts.
Here's the fix.
You will need:
A gituar pick
Rubbing alcohol
A Q-Tip
Superglue
Instructions:
1. Remove the back cover from the device with a gitaur pick.
2. Peel up the tape/laminate covering the power button.
click for larger picture
3. Clean off both contact surfaces using rubbing alcohol.
click for larger picture
4. Reassemble the switch by replacing the tape
5. Using just a dab of glue on the edge of the button assembly, secure the button tape/lamination back into place.
6. Reassemble the device.
Conclusion:
And that's all there is to it. You may decide to skip the superglue during reassembly, but its a good idea to use it generally as removing the tape weakens the hold of the manufacturer's adhesive.
Make no mistakes, this is a manufacturing defect and you should have the ability to return the device to get a new one if you experience this problem. But, after this procedure, the power button should work easily, every time.
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
silentheero said:
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Xdatv is coming up on Wednesday and I will add that into here..
Glad to see the fix is easy. Not surprised to see the issue since Asus has just been making crap in terms of quality for a while now. Nexus 7 was better then I thought not having the crap asus quality but the new one has Asus all over it. Used Asus stuff for years and after the crap G75 laptop I had I will never get anything made by Asus. Sucks I wanted a new nexus 7 guess I'll wait till Samsung or lg or Motorola makes the third version.
Asus has just dropped off a cliff the past few years. They dident even go downhill they went from great to utter budget crap even the ROG line. Waiting to see the last great Asus products go down the same way. The Rog mobos. I was really hoping Google would push some weight saying they have to do some QC on the nexus 7.
Anyways great guide. But I'll add that on electronics you want 90%+ alch. Get the colorless with no scents added. Those leave traces behind. Should not matter on buttons like this but if anyone was wondering if they could use the red or green alch. I advise you to get the highest % with no colors or sents added. At my work for cleaning pcb's we use 98% but anything over 85% is great.
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
mjoa68 said:
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
AdamOutler said:
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
mjoa68 said:
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
AdamOutler said:
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is definitely much easier to get into the case starting near the buttons as there's more flex to it there. I suppose a better way to say it might be that if you can get started on the opposite side you will avoid possibly cracking it near the camera like I did. But you'd probably be fine starting near the buttons as long as you're very careful (and not as clumsy or impatient as I was ) working around that first corner.
I aint never had to open up anything like this and will have to to replace my screen. So glad I found this thread first and will be sure to check out the unboxing video before I do. and Yes isopropyl is a much better cleaner than other alcohol based solutions. Gonna do them buttons while Im in there.
I would not be nearly as daring to attempt any of this without the guidance from seasoned members. Thank you so much!!
Thank you so much! the power and volume buttons worked again flawlessly!
But I damaged my N7 13's thin black metal like bezels around the screen when I'm trying to open it, that stuff is really fragile :/
i did this, but i also placed on the power button contact a small piece of 'thickener'... in my case it came from a double sided tape. the sticky part contact on the power button contact, and the other side which has the cover (of the double sided tape), i didn't remove that cover. effectively, a small 'thickener'. then close back the device. fixed!
Adam, a quick question on this power/volume button thread. I got my Nexus 7 2013 version very briefly wet - I mean for a micro second. It does charge, but it won't power up. I can get it into bootloader and the volume buttons work, however, the power button does not. Is there a good way to test the power button using a multimeter or, should I just go ahead and replace the power button/volume button strip completely and hope that does the trick?
Thanks!
Chris
Chris: wet Nexus 7 bootloader only with volume buttons
Hi Chris,
My nan also got her tablet wet and can only access the bottloader with the volume buttons. Did you find a solution to make the power button work in the end? I've got a very useless paper weight sat around :/
Mike
I lost the rubber mic grommet replacing a cracked screen even knowing it was there. After 20 plus years coding with shot eyes, I paid my 2 nephews to come over and crawl around to find it (wife's phone - nuff said). Still took over an hour to find. So I put a small amount of rubber adhesive around the edges to make it fit snug. I've had it apart 4 times since and it stays put.
Sent from Ponius using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta
bert682 said:
Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I did a little more reading and it seems that a gorilla has changed the screen on this phone in the past and he / she has used compound to stick the screen down and some of it has gone around the sensor and the resulting press down on the screen has created a few air pockets.
Looking less forward to changing the screen now as no doubt with my luck the "technician" will have used some crazy heat resistant glue!
Also....missing the speaker grille....funny how you only notice things after you have bought them!
Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sp_Ark said:
Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!
It will work for sure, I posted this fix on a YouTube screen replacement guide of octopus glues I think and its confirmed to work from a lot of people. Then if you use a custom rom go to brightness settings while having auto brightness enabled and try changing light sources from dark to very bright places to see the instant lux values you get. If you are not satisfied with the result try custom auto brightness values.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
bert682 said:
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.
Planterz said:
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got a "kit" off eBay, [URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?
That's the full part. The one you've posted is the type I usually go for, they're good quality so far.
bert682 said:
I got a "kit" off eBay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you), I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other components shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.
Planterz said:
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you, I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other comments shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video[/i] that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.
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Awesome, I saw some cheaper screens but that one notes that its LG compliant etc. I bought a set of tools separately so will have all the stuff needed. Didnt think about the battery, will order one as it does make sense!
Thanks for the info, will update as I go.
If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sp_Ark said:
If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
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Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?
bert682 said:
Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?
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Yeah this is normal.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
bert682 said:
New screen in and working well.
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Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"
Planterz said:
Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"
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No, not with the correct tools. I will admit had I not bought the plastic tools, tweezers etc I may have struggled.
The battery was my main concern, its really stuck down, even though this had been replaced before and likely a less tacky glue used it was still tough. Had to use some heat to soften it and the "battery cover" has seen better days. Next thing to replace is that, just for piece of mind.
All in all, pretty nice experience, the phone seems more modular that other phones I have taken apart which is nice.
Okay so I did this to my battery last night, and so far today I've had my tablet on, with the wifi running, and downloading various apps, for an hour twenty minutes thus far today, and the battery is only down to 95 percent. Before I did this last night it would more likely be in the low 80's right now.
Okay so first off I should tell you, there is a bit of risk involved here, so unless you don't have a spare battery, or are not okay with going without your tablet till you can get a new one, should the worst happy, you might want to give it a moments thought.
But then my hands are shaking constantly and I managed it so not as much risk as I just made it seem, haha.
Okay so you'll need three things to do this. A pair of pliers. preferably Slip-joint pliers, mainly as that's the kind I used. Metal tweezers of the type you would find in a mini screwdriver set. And any magnifying glass. Honestly that last one is optional.
I'll have pictures of those up later.
Okay so first off we need to remove the little plastic piece from the wires, so grip it with the pliers, not to hard, and pull. It may take a few tries, but eventually you should pull it right off.
Next you take the tweezers, and one at a time, you squeeze, using only a bit of pressure, on the wire heads where the connectors on, and it should push the two connectors closer together if you use enough pressure.
Then you get the little plastic thing again, and it takes a bit of work, honestly this is the part that annoyed me the most, but stick with it, it is possible, you slowly push each connector wire back into the holes they were previously in.
Then connect it to your tablet same as you ever would and viola, better battery strength. :3
Thanks for that info. Waiting for the photos. Good work.
I should have the pics of the tools up after christmas.
Oh, but small bit of additional warning to those that do this, you have to be gentle with those wires. While putting them back in the connecter you may tear a bit of the wire covering, but that doesn't matter, my tablets working fine.
But on the spare battery I ruined a few months ago trying to do this by a different method, I was practicing on it first, and I was really struggling to get the last wire in and it broke off. Which I had no idea could even happen. Is there a way to fix that? I don't know.
Small bit of advice to add.
Use electrical tape, and stick it over the wires on both sides before you pull the connector off. It'll help avoid breaking anything.
Pics in a few days hopefully. Including that one.
Nother update. This is honestly an ongoing process.
Just completely forget the little plastic thing, and using a magnifying glass to see better just go and connect the connectors. As long as you tightened the ends on the wires enough it shouldn't pop off. Then just put a piece of electrical tape over it just in case.