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Creaking / Squeaking behind Galaxy S2, with and without Back Cover

today i removed the back cover of my galaxy s2 after a long time and heard some creaking around the area circled in the picture below. I don't know if this is normal. however, the sound is concentrated over the microsd area. whether there is a microsd card inserted or not I still hear a creak when a little pressure is applied.
when the back cover is installed and when a little pressure is applied on the same area but from above the back cover, i can sometimes hear squeaking, but it depends where you apply the pressure. there seems to be a little gap between the cover and the interior of the chassis because sometimes it is easy to feel the SIM slot.
however, i don't know if this something to be concerned about because plastic materials do seem to behave this way after sometime. i don't think this is a heat-related issue because temperatures after using 3g usually concentrat on the opposite side (right)
let me know what you all think. what i am experiencing is focused in the area labelled as a square in the picture below
by the way, anybody know what is that area circled around the black piece, as shown in the picture below? the creaking can be easily felt there too.
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Isn't that the Internal Antenna? Could be wrong though!

i read that the antenna is placed below where the speakerphone is located
do any of you feel the squeaking in the region shown above?

I just popped the back cover to test and mine does not creak on that circled area, you might but im not sure if its a cause of worry though.

can you please check to see if you are experiencing the same thing i am facing. it could be normal, but i would like to hear from you all
ithehappy said:
Isn't that the Internal Antenna? Could be wrong though!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

i had to apply very hard pressure to get the squeak again. could there be screws loose, or could it be know normal since it is around the microsd slot area?
EDIT: the squeak lies around the the area circled, not squared, in the picture above. afaik, there are no screws in that area, i could be wrong though.
EarlZ said:
I just popped the back cover to test and mine does not creak on that circled area, you might but im not sure if its a cause of worry though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

It could just be the PCB flexing, and yeah I applied pressure on the circled area as I've said. Probably nothing to worry about but again im not 100% sure. I've also found a slight "thing" and im gonna post a thread about it in a bit, gonna do more testing.

like i pointed, this squeak is more prominent around the area circled around that black piece as pictured above. i don't know what that is

the highlighted area is the internal antenna

Im sure if i put force on areas, bent and twisted the phone, i would here creeks as well. Handle a phone how its supposed to be handled. Plastic by design does this especially when there isnt support and when its adhered to by metal parts. Common sense people.
Sent from my GT-I9100M using XDA App

well i didn't bend and twisted the phone, i was trying to get a case fitted but the case would not stay fit, some pressure had to be applied to get the case in there right, you would only hear the squeak if the force was hard enough
the plastic banding around the phone was made in such a way that it molds into itself over time when temperature comes into play,
but the squeaking was heard in an area where a microsd slot reside, some flexibility has to be present there you know
i don't know if what i encountered was a normal thing

I just noticed your phone does not have the samsung sticker on the top left area.. is it located on another part of the phone ?

Just like how if you press on someone's arm hard enough, it starts to bruise. Same with plastic that is covering an area where there is less support. If you press hard enough, it will creak.
The creaking is normal. Pressing that hard to make it creak is not.

My phone also squeaks a bit if I push the top left corner of the cover.
That connector shown is used in production. After the PCB is populated and the components soldered, they put it in a test device to calibrate the radio and some other systems. That connector actually cuts the path to the internal antenna when something is plugged in.
Sent from my GT-I9100

[How to] Repair the LCD cable clamp you broke while replacing the digitizer

I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
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I guess yours isn't the worst fix!
moktarino said:
I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently, it's not such a bad idea after all! I'm just wondering how to adapt it to work on an EVO 4G. There's no ribbon to put it underneath, but I get the idea... one would think those incredibly thin/weak plastic clamps (which should be relatively simple to replace) could be purchases for 10 to 100 times what they are worth (say, $3USD?) and problem solved. I put an HD2 screen in an EVO 4G, worked fine, until I didn't glue it in properly, and it popped out. My g/f brought it back to me, saying that I needed to fix it right! I went back in, and that damned wide flex ribbon cable, just the angle I was at, along with my son jumping about the table I was working at, I inadvertently broke that clamp, in three pieces! Damned frustrating too! I gotta get me a dedicated desk for my PC/CELL/TV repairs... with lights, magnifying glass, and a locked door...

Well folks, I have outdone myself today. I was digging through my old tech to harvest the buzzer motor out of an old Boost Mobile Motorola i425 phone. After ripping it apart for the motor, I decided to pick through the rest of the parts to see if there was anything worth keeping (I bet you know where I'm going with this by now), and after harvesting the speakers, I noticed that the LCD cable looked suspiciously similar to the one on my poor Droid X.
3 hours later, I have fully repaired my Droid X. It was pretty tricky though, but I discovered that if you bend the metal bits at either end of the connector down, you can slide the clamp in and then bend them back upright.
Parts reuse FTW! Thanks Motorola! i425's are apparently $5 on eBay now, btw.

You saved my life (and the one from my Sensation). Such a simple and working idea! Thanks!

Help finding correct charge port daughter board for Galaxy s5 G900W8

My charge port is busted and I want to replace it but cannot find G900W8 (Canadian model) anywhere.
I read somewhere that I could use the G900T model daughter board.
Can anyone confirm this? Thanks!

you can buy any charge port of any model, it is default from manufacture. ------- Galaxy S5 SM-G900F works aswell like i said.
you can't buy the charger port of Galaxy S5 New Edition because i believe it has different mAh and it has some pieces that does not have on S5 Old edition.

My model is the Canadian version Galaxy S5 - so you're saying I'd be fine no matter what version of the daughter board I buy?
A second question - I've noticed online you can buy just the silver micro-usb port... Would this be an easy fix? Does the port itself pop on and off the motherboard? Or is it hardwired / requiring lots of intricate soldering? If it pops on and off just like the flex cables do onto existing pins, then that seems like a much better solution - but I can't tell without taking the whole thing apart and no one discusses this as an option online - they all talk about replacing the daughter board.

No.....it won't be fine.....this is something I know about....having had experience of this issue on a number of Samsung devices.....
You *do* need to match the board physically.....but not only that, you need to match the REV (revision) number from your existing board to the one you buy....
There will likely be a number of older/newer versions of the board, and in my experience they are NOT interchangeable.....
And as for replacing just the socket, this is something I have considered attempting in the past....but the simple truth is that the connectors are just too small to accurately hand solder....You'd need a very low power soldering iron with a needle point tip and a rock steady hand.
You'd also need a lighted magnifying glass to enable you to actually see what you were doing.
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg

keithross39 said:
No.....it won't be fine.....this is something I know about....having had experience of this issue on a number of Samsung devices.....
You *do* need to match the board physically.....but not only that, you need to match the REV (revision) number from your existing board to the one you buy....
There will likely be a number of older/newer versions of the board, and in my experience they are NOT interchangeable.....
And as for replacing just the socket, this is something I have considered attempting in the past....but the simple truth is that the connectors are just too small to accurately hand solder....You'd need a very low power soldering iron with a needle point tip and a rock steady hand.
You'd also need a lighted magnifying glass to enable you to actually see what you were doing.
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in fact i believe they are default.
only matching the revision number. if you find an recent revision, that's fine. only not buying an old revision.
only what changes is the modem country code.
scott487 said:
My model is the Canadian version Galaxy S5 - so you're saying I'd be fine no matter what version of the daughter board I buy?
A second question - I've noticed online you can buy just the silver micro-usb port... Would this be an easy fix? Does the port itself pop on and off the motherboard? Or is it hardwired / requiring lots of intricate soldering? If it pops on and off just like the flex cables do onto existing pins, then that seems like a much better solution - but I can't tell without taking the whole thing apart and no one discusses this as an option online - they all talk about replacing the daughter board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
to change the usb port, you will need an soldering iron; 30w will be enough to do the work.
and experience how to solder.

keithross39 said:
No.....it won't be fine.....this is something I know about....having had experience of this issue on a number of Samsung devices.....
You *do* need to match the board physically.....but not only that, you need to match the REV (revision) number from your existing board to the one you buy....
There will likely be a number of older/newer versions of the board, and in my experience they are NOT interchangeable.....
And as for replacing just the socket, this is something I have considered attempting in the past....but the simple truth is that the connectors are just too small to accurately hand solder....You'd need a very low power soldering iron with a needle point tip and a rock steady hand.
You'd also need a lighted magnifying glass to enable you to actually see what you were doing.
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks - But I'm wondering what you think of this posting: http://forums.androidcentral.com/sa...0w8-charging-port-flex-cable-replacement.html
It's saying that Canadians (G900W8) should use the T version. That's what I'm hoping to confirm. Because I cannot find the G900W8 version online anywhere.

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@DBlackFireD There is simply no way of accurately soldering these contacts.....
I have all the practical hand soldering experience you can think of.....it can't be done.....There is a reason that these boards are assembled on automated production lines, and that is that computer controlled robots do not have shaky hands. If you try to hand solder the socket, you WILL end up causing other damage.
@scott487 I understand that the W8 board may be hard to find.....it might well be the case that the board for the T variant is compatible....I had a look at the thread you linked to, and I noticed the lack of feedback as to whether it worked or not...
If it were me, I'd still try to source the W8 board, and keep the T board in mind as a last resort.
With regards to what has been said about the REV versions of replacement boards.....
There may be some truth about newer replacements being reverse compatible with older originals....but doing things the other way around *definitely will not* work.....
And getting the wrong REV version has been known to break functionality on other Samsung phones.......things like data transfer, signal strength etc; so these boards are NOT generic/default....
I still maintain that replacing your existing board with one that has an identical REV number should be considered as a first resort......
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg

FPC Battery Connector for main logic board

Hi guys, is there anywhere I can get a fpc battery terminal for the logic board as per image attached? one of the brass prongs got caught in the battery and pinged off to my horror!
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Gutted is an understatement!

@turbotux If it's *just* the connector you want, and you're happy/able to solder it to the board, you can get it here.....
http://www.fonejoy.com/genuine-sams...edge-j1-j5-battery-connector-3711-008737.html
I personally wouldn't touch a hand soldering job like that, and I have been regularly using a soldering iron on all sorts of kit for over 20 years. The connectors are invariably microscopic and the potential to cause other, accidental damage is too high.
But if you want to try it....fair play and good luck (I think you'll need it).

Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.

keithross39 said:
Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.

turbotux said:
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah....you have a broken phone right now so why not try it? Just be *REAL* careful....There are a number of surface mounted components in close proximity to your work area....
Damaging them through accidental contact with the soldering iron (or even simple heat transfer along the board) is a BIG possibility....
---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------
One final bit of advice (though you probably already know this) 'tin' or coat the solder points on the new part before going near the board. It'll help minimise the length of time the iron is in contact with the board.

I have a soldering iron with a 'home modified' reversable tip. You can see in the picture, at one end is the standard 4mm tip while at the other is a 1mm tip that tapers down to practically a needle point. This is the end that sees the most use, and it is that size of tip that you're going to need.

Just to update, I managed to solder it and it still did not work unfortunely so I've bought another n910f handset, these things happen. However the cause of this I think is down to the extended battery I had pulling on the whole module, I'm going to be running the stock batteries I have from now on.
A worthy purchase however is the extended battery I've picked up for those long cycle rides which should easily see me through, for interest its a 14000mAh Logic3 which I picked up from Maplin for around £40 and compared to its 30000mAh Chinese predecessor it totally kicks ass.
A expensive lesson learned here....

I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.

keithross39 said:
I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah the safe approach, I'm going down this route also, thanks for all your help

Yeah....It also minimises wear on the micro usb socket built into the phone...which is one big weak point on these devices.

Xperia Z5 Thermal hardware mod

Hello Z5 users!
It's my first thread ever posted by me so please forgive my lack of knowledge in creating new threads.
Warning! If you decide to do that mod yourself, proceed with extreme caution, I'm not responsible for breaking your device as it's very easy to break something.
I decided to crack open my good old Xperia Z5 and do something to increase performance and improve heat dissipation.
Firstly, I spent some time in watching teardown videos to have a look at the cooling system. It features metal backplate behind an lcd and two copper heat pipes that are soldered to the metal plate. I took some pictures of cooling system:
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There is metal shielding above the cpu and couple other elements. Between the metal shield and copper pipes, there is an inefficient thermal filler, so I removed it.
Next, we've got the motherboard. The metal shield is held by metal clips, so you need a little bit of leverage to lift this up. Between the shield and cpu is a thermal pad (it's extremely thin) which I think is inefficient as well, so I also removed it. Instead of this thermal pad, I just used a little bit of thermal paste which I needed to spread on the cpu (it must be a thin layer). After closing it up, I had to use something to close the gap between metal shielding and copper heatpipes. Firstly, I used 0.5mm Thermal pad with better conductivity, but it was too inefficient. Eventually I sanded a little bit the shielding, it had that uneven surface as you can see on this pictures.
I do not recommend using "metal based" thermal pastes, they're usually conduting electricity and that is undesirable.
I didn't do any pictures inside of this metal shielding, because i added there some thermal paste before and if I opened that it'd very messy.
The uneven surface is the problem, the heatpipes are around 0.5mm higher than the metal plate that are soldered to. I decided to put copper pad. I didn't know the exact thickness back then, so I bought a 1.0mm one and it was too thick so I sanded it down so it'd fit, I found that it should be around 0.2-0.3mm - If you put too thick copper pad and screw the motherboard, it'll push on the backplate and on the back of the lcd too hard and the dark points will appear (I was cautious so i unscrewed it and sanded the pad, so my lcd is fine).
You can even sand a little bit the copper pipes, so the surface will be more even and flat, it'll improve the heat transfer a little bit. I've spread the same thermal paste on both sides and just put everything back together.
The heat is going from the processor to shielding, through the copper pad and finally to the copper heatpipes. It is better from the factory solution, because the heat is transferred almost only to heatpipes and the lcd will be a little bit cooler to the touch, because it's not touching the metal backplate behind the lcd directly.
Do not add that much thermal compound. Please, don't point to me, that I'm using too much thermal paste, I'm aware of that.
Also, I know that the heat transfer surface under the copper pad is terrible, but it's better than stock solution. I've tried using those "soft" thermal pads next to heatpipes to increase the surface, but in the end I discovered that the results aren't that better and the lcd was heating up much more.
And the results are in the attachments. I didn't do a before and after, I've based the improvement on the average points in benchmarks. So check your scores in those, and let me know your stock points, so I'll know better if the mod was worth it. The screenshots are from Geekbench, it's on google play
My antutu benchmark score =112612
Other users average score = 97159

Thanks man . Very nice work.

ouzqan said:
Thanks man . Very nice work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear it

Hi man!
can you share temperature results_?
first open phone, benchmark result and any game 10 minute

Verity. said:
Glad to hear it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome mod. Can you please do throttle test using CPU Throttling Test ?
If you want to compare I did it here https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...geos-17-1-sumire-stable.4049463/post-87250667

diimdeep said:
Awesome mod. Can you please do throttle test using CPU Throttling Test ?
If you want to compare I did it here https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...geos-17-1-sumire-stable.4049463/post-87250667
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I sold my Z5 three years ago. This cpu was known for overheating, throttling and actually burning itself to death (Nexus 6P and some other phones with sd 810)

Verity. said:
Sorry, I sold my Z5 three years ago. This cpu was known for overheating, throttling and actually burning itself to death (Nexus 6P and some other phones with sd 810)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel you. Do you recommend going through with modding like you did, or just get rid of this phone ?

I'd recommend getting a phone with a midrange cpu, something like snapdragon 730, 765g etc. These are energy efficient yet very fast and they don't heat up the phone that much. It's much better that way. And also get a phone with like 6gb of ram at least. I bought Galaxy A70 used a year ago, got it pretty cheap and I love it.

Cool work.
Software modding is also effective (and even saves accu battery), see
[ROM+KERNEL][UNOFFICIAL][11.0] crDroid
*** Disclaimer I am not responsible for any damage you made to your device You have been warned crDroid is designed to increase performance and reliability over stock Android for your device also attempting to bringing many of the best features...
forum.xda-developers.com