Each time when replacing battery date and time settings on my wizard return to default settings.
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Watchman said:
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new. Every time when I remove battery, I must set my clock and date again and again.
RTC Battery
nikolica said:
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Wizard is about two years old and I have had not noticed it happening before .
I plan to open housing soon to look for such battery.
RE
If You need help for opening You're wizard look this article
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
you can't, really.
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. this retains enough charge to keep the RTC time right, and they wear out. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
Backup Battery in Wizard plus other devices
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
no one uses a capacitor for saving data(even time and date) except for desktop RAM but that's just cause it gets powered up all the time by the PS.
of course a capacitor is used for short-time memory.. but it's not more than 2-3 minutes. the only way you'd be able to keep it for a long term is to have a XuF capacitor with a small battery..
these batteries are known to die frequently due to voltage shocks and extra current. the phone itself has a safety mechanism in which if you connect it to different voltage sources, as long as they're in a thin range of voltages, will manage to charge.. but some of the inner mechanisms (such as that capacitor).. are burnt during charging.
Nandaly said:
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The service manual speaks about a GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V (which isn't a normal capacitor) but mine looked like a small battery.
Mine was looking green because of some oxide on it. (caused by rainy jackets I thihk)
Is it really possible that the service manual is wrong? I thought there are also rechargable button cells...do you know for sure a regular lithium cell is ok?
(oh, my device is a prophet)
THIS IS A HIGH CAPACITY CAPACITOR also called super capacitor.
looking at what is printed GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V
F=Farad (capacitance values are normally specified in nano, micro, milli farads etc
I tried soldering on a broken USB connector in a wizard once but messed it all up, it seems they use some RoHS tin which makes it very difficult to make clean connections.
No! Not A Capacitor! Yes A Battery!
Folks,
This is indeed a battery in the HTC Wizard and NOT A CAPACITOR. A 0.07F capacitor would be physically several times larger than the phone itself.
So regardless of what is "printed" in the service manual, this is a small magnesium lithium ion rechargeable battery.
I have changed on 2 HTC Wizards (branded ATT Cingular 8125).
What I took out was exact identical to what I purchsed from Digikey (on-line as posted in my earlier comment)(and yes, the soldering is/was a tad bit difficult - if you do not know what you are doing).
Signed (Nandaly), B.A.Sc., P.Eng.
There's a few of these going on the Bay of E, can anyone who has one tell me how big they are? How much thicker do they make the phone compared to
a. an 1800 and
b. a 3200 battery?
The 4800mAh battery adds another 10mm to the thickness. I bought one from battery_centre on ebay, but it doesn't seem to hold that much extra charge. If I'd paid more than £8.98 + £6.99 postage I might be more upset.
Is that an extra 10mm from the stock battery, or from the 3200mAh one? If it's from stock, then how does it compare to the 3200 in thickness? I don't see why I shouldn't pay a little more and get the longer-lasting battery if it's the same as the 3200.
It's an extra 10mm from the stock battery. I've no idea how much thickness the 3200mAh battery adds.
3200mah battery adds double of the standard battery, so try how it looks yourself, 4800mah battery adds 3xstandard battery thikness...
3600mAh battery is twice that of the standard
Any thought of this model:
http://picasaweb.google.com/mugenpower8/PalmTreoPro?feat=directlink
Seems way to big for only 3600mAh given that you get 1800mAh out of a stock sized battery and door. I also don't like how it isn't flat on the back. If you lay your phone down, it tilts towards the top because it's uneven. I would have expected better from Mugen Power.
guys this is my first tutorial...so please bear with me
my 2 yr old gene needed a battery change as it could give a backup of 15 mins only....and the new battery cost around INR 1000.....while going thru my junks i found a nokia cellphone which i used rarely and it had a new battery in it...an idea popped in my mind. the idea was to change the cell and replace it with the nokia cell...after inspecting both the batteries carefully...the body structure were almost identical in shape and size though the nokia cell was a little slimmer than gene's sanyo cell...the specs of gene battery "Sanyo Model:WIZA16" and the nokia battery "BL-5c" were:
Sanyo Model WIZA16 :3.7VDC 1250mAH li-ion battery
BL-5c: 3.7VDC 1230mAH li-ion battery
the only thing which mattered was..I was short of 20mAh....i decided to give it a shot....
Step 1 : Dismantle the sanyo battery by removing the label covering it..then carefully removed the plastic shell covering...
Step 2 : You'll find a pcb attached to it on the side cell.Handle with care.
Step 3 : with the help of multi tester probe the terminals and find out which is +ive and -ive and mark it on da pcb.
Step 4 :You'll need some basic soldering skills to desolder the positive and the negative terminals of the cell from the pcb.after detaching the terminals as i found out the base of the cell is positive where as the other point is -negative. see the attached pics
Step 5 :do the same on nokia battery....we wont be needing the top(which includes the terminals) and bottom plastic shell
Step 6 :removed the cell from pcb...well the nokia cell has both the terminals on one side as compared to sanyo's cell (see the pics)
Step 7:after seperating both the cells from their respective pcbs....we're going to attach pcb of sanyo to the nokia cell
Step 8 :becareful wen soldering the terminals on the pcb....it should be soldered the same way as it was on the sanyo cell...or youll end up screwing the pcb.double check it again with muli tester.
Step 9 :With the help a wire...connect the negative terminal of the cell to the pcb.
Step 10 :Now put the cell and pcb back in to the sanyo's plastic shell...and youre done.....put the newly refurbished battery into the gene....and let it charge for atleast 3 hrs.
for me this battery is working as a new one the backup time is great...i wonder if there would be any change in performance in this cell which has 1230mAH as compared to original cell which had 1250mAH.
hope you guys like my tutorial...its kinda short.....i know.
i'll upload more pics later....and sorry for blurry images....
I make a simple guide for made home battery for hd2 like official one
easy 2 use and plug n play
don't do unless you know what u r doing
what we need
capdase case because back cover will not fit the phone this case will cover the phone
n97 battery 1500 mAh BP-4L or any battery you have spare or useless but you must chose the higher mAh
Iron for soldering
any old flex cable from any phone or flat wire you can go 2 mobile repair shop and ask him 4 flex cable no longer work we need just
skill with soldering
hd2 with stock battery
pic inn attach
first take off the n97 battery cover to be like pic
and remove the circuit board from battery and get 2 wire too thin or flex and solder it with positive and negative measure with voltmeter
connect this pin 2 your battery
don't forget attach positive with and negative with negative as listed with your original battery
am not responsible for any damage
i hope 2 help some one with this thread
now we have more power we need pocket injection driver or monitor mode for aircrack
Very nice idea for making higher capacity battery
but one quesion is here can it blocks overcharging and prevents mobile from short circuit ??
i have no problem with charge or any thing its take about 2.5 to 3 hours for full charge with 5v 750 mAh wall charger
if you get the pins solder it correctly you will avoid short circuit
i taste it on n900 and i hocked up 3 battery and it was work like charm but it takes mach longer for full charge