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Each time when replacing battery date and time settings on my wizard return to default settings.
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Watchman said:
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new. Every time when I remove battery, I must set my clock and date again and again.
RTC Battery
nikolica said:
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Wizard is about two years old and I have had not noticed it happening before .
I plan to open housing soon to look for such battery.
RE
If You need help for opening You're wizard look this article
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
you can't, really.
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. this retains enough charge to keep the RTC time right, and they wear out. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
Backup Battery in Wizard plus other devices
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
no one uses a capacitor for saving data(even time and date) except for desktop RAM but that's just cause it gets powered up all the time by the PS.
of course a capacitor is used for short-time memory.. but it's not more than 2-3 minutes. the only way you'd be able to keep it for a long term is to have a XuF capacitor with a small battery..
these batteries are known to die frequently due to voltage shocks and extra current. the phone itself has a safety mechanism in which if you connect it to different voltage sources, as long as they're in a thin range of voltages, will manage to charge.. but some of the inner mechanisms (such as that capacitor).. are burnt during charging.
Nandaly said:
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The service manual speaks about a GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V (which isn't a normal capacitor) but mine looked like a small battery.
Mine was looking green because of some oxide on it. (caused by rainy jackets I thihk)
Is it really possible that the service manual is wrong? I thought there are also rechargable button cells...do you know for sure a regular lithium cell is ok?
(oh, my device is a prophet)
THIS IS A HIGH CAPACITY CAPACITOR also called super capacitor.
looking at what is printed GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V
F=Farad (capacitance values are normally specified in nano, micro, milli farads etc
I tried soldering on a broken USB connector in a wizard once but messed it all up, it seems they use some RoHS tin which makes it very difficult to make clean connections.
No! Not A Capacitor! Yes A Battery!
Folks,
This is indeed a battery in the HTC Wizard and NOT A CAPACITOR. A 0.07F capacitor would be physically several times larger than the phone itself.
So regardless of what is "printed" in the service manual, this is a small magnesium lithium ion rechargeable battery.
I have changed on 2 HTC Wizards (branded ATT Cingular 8125).
What I took out was exact identical to what I purchsed from Digikey (on-line as posted in my earlier comment)(and yes, the soldering is/was a tad bit difficult - if you do not know what you are doing).
Signed (Nandaly), B.A.Sc., P.Eng.
I wanted to add a comment about the Kaiser's battery. It's the first lithium phone battery that I've seen with a ground plane, the inside face of the pack is a metal plate. The plastic film "case" around the battery has this metal plate exposed at all 4 corners to make contact with mating gold fingers in the battery box, all around the battery. I bring this up because there are always cheap batteries available for these phones and I would beware of one without this extra shielding, it may affect performance or just radiate more stray R/F?
Also it's the same capacity as Hermes but has 4 contacts vs Hermes 6 and they are in different locations. You'd think they could work on a "standardized" battery for phones. I found that the Kaiser's USB charge jack is in the same location as the Hermes and that I am able to place it onto the charge cradle that I currently have. Unfortunately the 2nd battery charge bay is useless, but this will work until the next generation of accys and cases come out.
I didn't know batteries generated RF. WiFi sure, and bluetooth yes, but a battery?
No, batteries don't normally radiate, burn maybe, but not radiate. I'm thinking that since it's the inner face of the battery, that it's forming a shield for the back of the phone's electronics.
It might be an antenna for something as well !
Yes, sounds like it could be a ground plane for an antenna. GPS perhaps? Getting my HTC unlocked tytnII tomorrow, will look into it.
1600 mAh replacement battery
RemE said:
I wanted to add a comment about the Kaiser's battery. It's the first lithium phone battery that I've seen with a ground plane, the inside face of the pack is a metal plate. The plastic film "case" around the battery has this metal plate exposed at all 4 corners to make contact with mating gold fingers in the battery box, all around the battery. I bring this up because there are always cheap batteries available for these phones and I would beware of one without this extra shielding, it may affect performance or just radiate more stray R/F? . . .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just received a battery I ordered from http://http://stores.ebay.com/Acces...harger_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ9QQftidZ2QQtZkm.
It does not have the exposed metal corners of the original battery. It powers up the phone fine, but now I'm worried that I may cause a problem.
Would like to know the purpose of the metal contacts, and how important it is to stay with the exact match battery.
My educated guess is that it's a radio interference shield, probably required for certification. I'm sure of one thing, they didn't do this for fun, it was required.
Like most PC hardware, they are specified as Class B/ Class C etc. relating to radiated interference for home use vs commercial use (higher levels allowed). Once purchased, we merrily change bits and pieces, possibly voiding the original certification, but with little if any noticible consequence.
I think this is similar, unless someone notes that there is poor performance in one of the radios, like reduced sensivity from the GPS etc. we won't know.
RemE said:
My educated guess is that it's a radio interference shield, probably required for certification. I'm sure of one thing, they didn't do this for fun, it was required.
Like most PC hardware, they are specified as Class B/ Class C etc. relating to radiated interference for home use vs commercial use (higher levels allowed). Once purchased, we merrily change bits and pieces, possibly voiding the original certification, but with little if any noticible consequence.
I think this is similar, unless someone notes that there is poor performance in one of the radios, like reduced sensivity from the GPS etc. we won't know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is required then should we not see it on other pda batteries? is there a plate on the back of the battery for the 8525?
Not necessarily, this is the first shield plate that I've seen on any phone, the fact that it's there with matching contacts in the 4 corners of the Kaiser's battery box means that on THIS phone, this was designed in. We just don't know the engineering reason,but there is one.
I think this is used as either some kind of antenna or for some kind of isolating purpose. No doubt about that. I just purchased the following battery:
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/produ...rchphrase=HTC%20P4550%20battery%20(1600%20mAh)
This battery does not have the plate in the back like the original battery. By the way I recommend this battery, so far it works great. Same size as OEM and no need for new cover. Made in Honk Kong and ships from there, comes with 1 year warranty.
One interesting thing that I do notice using this new battery is that it appears that my GPS reception has improved. With the original battery I do not get reception indoors and now I do (although not always). I believe I can confirm this as well. I was never able to get any GPS reception anywhere indoors before (meaning inside of a home).
RemE said:
I wanted to add a comment about the Kaiser's battery. It's the first lithium phone battery that I've seen with a ground plane, the inside face of the pack is a metal plate. The plastic film "case" around the battery has this metal plate exposed at all 4 corners to make contact with mating gold fingers in the battery box, all around the battery. I bring this up because there are always cheap batteries available for these phones and I would beware of one without this extra shielding, it may affect performance or just radiate more stray R/F?
Also it's the same capacity as Hermes but has 4 contacts vs Hermes 6 and they are in different locations. You'd think they could work on a "standardized" battery for phones. I found that the Kaiser's USB charge jack is in the same location as the Hermes and that I am able to place it onto the charge cradle that I currently have. Unfortunately the 2nd battery charge bay is useless, but this will work until the next generation of accys and cases come out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How is ther performance of this battery? Any better or a lot worse then the original battery? I'm really finding it hard to find charging point everywhere i go cos the original battery just cannot last the whole day
c6638746 said:
I think this is used as either some kind of antenna or for some kind of isolating purpose. No doubt about that. I just purchased the following battery:
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/produ...rchphrase=HTC%20P4550%20battery%20(1600%20mAh)
This battery does not have the plate in the back like the original battery. By the way I recommend this battery, so far it works great. Same size as OEM and no need for new cover. Made in Honk Kong and ships from there, comes with 1 year warranty.
One interesting thing that I do notice using this new battery is that it appears that my GPS reception has improved. With the original battery I do not get reception indoors and now I do (although not always). I believe I can confirm this as well. I was never able to get any GPS reception anywhere indoors before (meaning inside of a home).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
c6638746 said:
I think this is used as either some kind of antenna or for some kind of isolating purpose. No doubt about that. I just purchased the following battery:
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/produ...rchphrase=HTC%20P4550%20battery%20(1600%20mAh)
This battery does not have the plate in the back like the original battery. By the way I recommend this battery, so far it works great. Same size as OEM and no need for new cover. Made in Honk Kong and ships from there, comes with 1 year warranty.
One interesting thing that I do notice using this new battery is that it appears that my GPS reception has improved. With the original battery I do not get reception indoors and now I do (although not always). I believe I can confirm this as well. I was never able to get any GPS reception anywhere indoors before (meaning inside of a home).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YA i like to know how much more does this last than the org battery
1 more hr or more ?
thankyou
Hello all.
It's been a while since I posted in the hima-forums, ever since I got my nike I kinda let the hima go. Now I want to use it's battery for a small camera project of mine.
However the battery has got 6 'pins', and I just need 2 (- and + ofcourse ). Should I take 2 specific pins and leave the rest, or should I combine them in sets or what?
I really hope someone knows what I mean and has an answer
Thanks in advance
same question
perhaps you Should take 2 specific pins ???????????????
Referring to http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=492367
:
i stated that plate 1 and 2 have the same polarity, and plate 5 and 6 have the same polarity. however, they cannot be shared. if you were to touch plate 1 and 2 together, the batt just won't give u energy. same with 5 and 6. be careful when you're doing this, this "combining of sets" caused my hima to go dead without reason. i'm still trying to troubleshoot my hima, and pray for me that it wakes up. :\
-cyNix-
-cyNix- said:
Referring to http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=492367
:
i stated that plate 1 and 2 have the same polarity, and plate 5 and 6 have the same polarity. however, they cannot be shared. if you were to touch plate 1 and 2 together, the batt just won't give u energy. same with 5 and 6. be careful when you're doing this, this "combining of sets" caused my hima to go dead without reason. i'm still trying to troubleshoot my hima, and pray for me that it wakes up. :\
-cyNix-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah even i got a LITTLE curious about my xda himalaya battery pinout
could we put some high caps battery ??
I recommend you to use NI-MH 1.2V accu batteries, because Li-polymer batteries should not go under some voltage, dont remember exact, about 2,7V, and you got no chip to control that
I make a simple guide for made home battery for hd2 like official one
easy 2 use and plug n play
don't do unless you know what u r doing
what we need
capdase case because back cover will not fit the phone this case will cover the phone
n97 battery 1500 mAh BP-4L or any battery you have spare or useless but you must chose the higher mAh
Iron for soldering
any old flex cable from any phone or flat wire you can go 2 mobile repair shop and ask him 4 flex cable no longer work we need just
skill with soldering
hd2 with stock battery
pic inn attach
first take off the n97 battery cover to be like pic
and remove the circuit board from battery and get 2 wire too thin or flex and solder it with positive and negative measure with voltmeter
connect this pin 2 your battery
don't forget attach positive with and negative with negative as listed with your original battery
am not responsible for any damage
i hope 2 help some one with this thread
now we have more power we need pocket injection driver or monitor mode for aircrack
Very nice idea for making higher capacity battery
but one quesion is here can it blocks overcharging and prevents mobile from short circuit ??
i have no problem with charge or any thing its take about 2.5 to 3 hours for full charge with 5v 750 mAh wall charger
if you get the pins solder it correctly you will avoid short circuit
i taste it on n900 and i hocked up 3 battery and it was work like charm but it takes mach longer for full charge
so I broke the tab in the usb port in my nexus 4. I bought an induction charger but it doesn't seem to be charging the thing very well. It will sometimes turn on and I can see the battery is at 0% and it shuts down. do you think there is a chance there is a short in the port itself making it so that the battery drains itself? I left it charging overnight with no luck. What to do next? remove the port entirely while I wait for the new usb daughter board to come in the mail?
mikkowus said:
so I broke the tab in the usb port in my nexus 4. I bought an induction charger but it doesn't seem to be charging the thing very well. It will sometimes turn on and I can see the battery is at 0% and it shuts down. do you think there is a chance there is a short in the port itself making it so that the battery drains itself? I left it charging overnight with no luck. What to do next? remove the port entirely while I wait for the new usb daughter board to come in the mail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it's more likely that the broken USB tab is causing either a short or has broken a connection the phone expects, which fools the circuitry into thinking the phone is plugged in to USB, which won't allow it to charge via Qi. You could try charging it with the daughterboard removed, but I'd be surprised if it works. Hopefully you have a back-up phone while you wait for the part, even if it's a RAZR V3 or Nokia 3310. SIM won't match, obviously, but you can probably pick up an adapter locally.
Planterz said:
I think it's more likely that the broken USB tab is causing either a short or has broken a connection the phone expects, which fools the circuitry into thinking the phone is plugged in to USB, which won't allow it to charge via Qi. You could try charging it with the daughterboard removed, but I'd be surprised if it works. Hopefully you have a back-up phone while you wait for the part, even if it's a RAZR V3 or Nokia 3310. SIM won't match, obviously, but you can probably pick up an adapter locally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That makes sense. I do have an old samsung tmobile phone that lasts about 4 hours on its battery. I guess I might be using that for a few days. I'ts at home though and I'm at work. It would be nice if this thing would just work. I need to find a t5 torx wrench and scew it up more......
mikkowus said:
That makes sense. I do have an old samsung tmobile phone that lasts about 4 hours on its battery. I guess I might be using that for a few days. I'ts at home though and I'm at work. It would be nice if this thing would just work. I need to find a t5 torx wrench and scew it up more......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some advice for someone who hasn't taken this phone apart yet:
First, go to ifixit and familiarize yourself with the teardown guide. There are also some youtube videos that are helpful (if you can't find them immediately, look for screen replacement guides.
Second, you'll need something thin and flat, and hopefully not with sharp edges. They make tools for this, but I doubt you'll be willing to order them and wait. Myself, I used the nail file from a keychain Swiss Army Knife. It's possible, even likely you'll cosmetically damage the plastic up a bit. If you have a hair drier (or even a heat gun), this can aid in softening up the adhesive. In any case, go slowly.
Do the disassembly over a fluffy towel. There are many tiny screws, and a fluffy towel will trap them rather than having them bounce away and disappear.
As I write this, another thought occurs to me. If you can, wait a few more days, but order yourself a new battery off eBay. Many sellers include the needed disassembly tools (including a T5 TORX, small Philips, and the plastic separating tools). Your Nexus 4 is probably 1.5-2.5 years old by now, which means your battery has had well over 500 cycles. At this point, you've lost upwards of 20% your battery's original capacity. Or don't wait, but order a new battery anyway and reopen the phone when you get it. The degradation of a battery is slow and one really doesn't notice it until that day you think to yourself "it seems like it used to last longer". Indeed, you may open up your phone to discover a puffed-out battery in desperate need of replacement anyway.
Planterz said:
Some advice for someone who hasn't taken this phone apart yet:
First, go to ifixit and familiarize yourself with the teardown guide. There are also some youtube videos that are helpful (if you can't find them immediately, look for screen replacement guides.
Second, you'll need something thin and flat, and hopefully not with sharp edges. They make tools for this, but I doubt you'll be willing to order them and wait. Myself, I used the nail file from a keychain Swiss Army Knife. It's possible, even likely you'll cosmetically damage the plastic up a bit. If you have a hair drier (or even a heat gun), this can aid in softening up the adhesive. In any case, go slowly.
Do the disassembly over a fluffy towel. There are many tiny screws, and a fluffy towel will trap them rather than having them bounce away and disappear.
As I write this, another thought occurs to me. If you can, wait a few more days, but order yourself a new battery off eBay. Many sellers include the needed disassembly tools (including a T5 TORX, small Philips, and the plastic separating tools). Your Nexus 4 is probably 1.5-2.5 years old by now, which means your battery has had well over 500 cycles. At this point, you've lost upwards of 20% your battery's original capacity. Or don't wait, but order a new battery anyway and reopen the phone when you get it. The degradation of a battery is slow and one really doesn't notice it until that day you think to yourself "it seems like it used to last longer". Indeed, you may open up your phone to discover a puffed-out battery in desperate need of replacement anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. I did end up ordering a new battery because of just that thought. It will be coming Friday though so I might not want to wait. I'll probably end up opening it up twice.. I also happened to open the phone about a 3 weeks after I bought it as somehow the screen cracked. I also have a heatgun. The phone is pretty old. I got it on release.