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Hey guys, I am generally very pleased with X10 camera, but so far i was unable to find any explanation about camera modes. So far I had been using normal and night landscape only, cause i dont what other are for. I've seen people using Beach and snow mode for low light images etc, and results were quite fine.
So is there anyone here, who can explain things about modes, more from technical side like: shutter speed, ISO values and things like that? I think it will be usefull for everyone here.
Thanks
hibiskus said:
Hey guys, I am generally very pleased with X10 camera, but so far i was unable to find any explanation about camera modes. So far I had been using normal and night landscape only, cause i dont what other are for. I've seen people using Beach and snow mode for low light images etc, and results were quite fine.
So is there anyone here, who can explain things about modes, more from technical side like: shutter speed, ISO values and things like that? I think it will be usefull for everyone here.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now, I am currently using the "touch mode" I could use the "normal" mode before. But for whatever reasons, couldn't use it
The sport mode is for capturing images of things moving, beach and snow mode is for pictures taken at the beach or outside in the snow. party says it self, landscape is for pictures taken fx a mountain
Well, more important than those modes is:
- use the EV compensation.
go with it minus one or two steps and keep the sun behind you.
also, lowering the EV helps in low light too because will reduce the ISO.
ofcourse, in low light you will need better hands
- another very very important thing is: metering modes.
for macro images use spot (also use spot if you have most of the image around your object with one color: ex. a kid in the snow. in this case camera will do the metering where your focus point is ... the kid ... so the kid will be "better exposed").
use average for landscapes and other "wide" images ....
center ... well, for close stuff.
- do not enable image stabilization.
trust your hands
the camera on X10 is compressing the images way too much so, they become soft.
image stabilization will make them even more soft than that.
What i don't like about the X10 camera is the focus.
I have no idea how is choosing the focus point(s) so, i decided the camera app is crap.
I started to use vignette but is slow as a pig riding a donkey so, i moved on.
Camera360 is working fine.
You have time to wait for the pic to be saved and you know you won't loose a good shot?
Vignette is better. Better quality and best focus from this 3 apps.
Camera 360?
Focus almost as good as vignette.
Quality almost as good as vignette but if you zoom a little you can see the difference.
Speed? A Ferrari vs. Ford Focus (not RS ) if you compare it with Vignette
Hope this helps.
Had a little bit of free-time so decided to do a simple test. What differences does the different camera modes provide in Low-Light?
Here is the album for the pictures: https://goo.gl/photos/iFc9Keoh9um1beks5
All shots were handheld, 8MP 16:9, landscape orientation. Unfortunately, I don't really have a DSLR sample for comparison but you can take my word that there wasn't much light (among the shots, SA and Handheld Twilight are closest to how dark the scene actually was but in reality, it was still a bit darker). On to the analysis:
Superior Auto - Night-Scene detected, NO tripod icon Even though it selected Night-Scene, it still seemed to select a rather high-ISO in this case, making it quite useless. How do you get the Tripod icon to appear when handheld? Do you have any tips for that or how long I have to wait for it to appear?
Manual Mode (ISO Auto, Metering Multi, Single Auto-Focus) - based on many observations, ISO in Manual mode generally is 1/2 of the ISO that is selected for Superior Auto. Most of the time I shoot stuff in this setting. Curiously, did anybody notice that the "Image Stabilizer" option disappeared?
Night Portrait - based on observations, seems to select a balance of the lowest ISO it could get with the slowest shutter-speed it can have to have a balanced exposure of the scene WITHOUT motion blur. This in contrast to the Night Scene mode.
Night Scene - based on observations, seems to prioritize getting the lowest ISO it can and slowest shutter-speed to get the best exposure BUT the main difference with Night Portrait is it does not care about motion blur! And yes, the shutter speed it selected was almost 1 sec but I have to be honest, it really took me quite a few tries to get that clear a shot without motion blur. You might also notice some wonky focus on the right-side.
Handheld Twilight - not really sure what this does but to me seems to perform like HDR? Takes a couple of pics then stitches them together to preserve detail? If you compare to the Superior Auto shot, it seems to have more detail in comparison (e.g. the frame with etched words).
Is there a best scene for shooting? I think it would depend on what you want to prioritize. For me, I would probably leave it in Manual / Night Portrait for general shooting and put it in Night-Scene mode for landscape shots. Lack of OIS is sad but not a deal-breaker for me, just have to be more patient and practice having steady hands to get that good shot.
Hope this have helped you and please feel free to add any information as needed!
Generally in most indoor scenarios, putting the camera manually into Night Portrait produces the best results - especially with flash. If you can get Superior Auto to bring up Tripod mode in Night scene, this is better but without tripod you're better off with Night Portrait, by en large (though Superior Auto has surprised me, on occasion - I'd love to recommend it but it's so dang hit-and-miss: sometimes it'll do better, sometimes worse. It's very inconsistent indoors).
Outdoors, if you can get Superior Auto showing Night Scene, snap away. If it spot meters to the brightest point, all the better. If you can get that tripod symbol up, you're really in business and this'll really do the job well.
Oddly, outdoors in low light, I've found Night Scene on manual to be just too damn tricky to get a shot without motion blur. On SA, it uses some form of stabilisation to help. IF you can get Manual Night Scene to work, it's marginally better than the Superior Auto equivalent but, in a complete reverse of the indoor results I get, you're best using Superior Auto's night modes outside. Weird.
BUT Don't use Superior Auto at night without a mode selected! It's screws everything up. The Low Light mode can be good in extreme darkness but if the lighting is moderate, sometimes Manual on automatic settings produces the cleaner image. If you've time to do it, drop the ISO on Manual to the lowest it can be while still exposing the scene correctly, if you're in a reasonably lit but imperfect area, like a streetlit housing estate, etc.
One of these days Sony will produce a camera that you can just point and shoot. One day.
PS: I've always found Handheld Twilight to be generally useless.
Timaustin2000 said:
Generally in most indoor scenarios, putting the camera manually into Night Portrait produces the best results - especially with flash. If you can get Superior Auto to bring up Tripod mode in Night scene, this is better but without tripod you're better off with Night Portrait, by en large (though Superior Auto has surprised me, on occasion - I'd love to recommend it but it's so dang hit-and-miss: sometimes it'll do better, sometimes worse. It's very inconsistent indoors).
Outdoors, if you can get Superior Auto showing Night Scene, snap away. If it spot meters to the brightest point, all the better. If you can get that tripod symbol up, you're really in business and this'll really do the job well.
Oddly, outdoors in low light, I've found Night Scene on manual to be just too damn tricky to get a shot without motion blur. On SA, it uses some form of stabilisation to help. IF you can get Manual Night Scene to work, it's marginally better than the Superior Auto equivalent but, in a complete reverse of the indoor results I get, you're best using Superior Auto's night modes outside. Weird.
BUT Don't use Superior Auto at night without a mode selected! It's screws everything up. The Low Light mode can be good in extreme darkness but if the lighting is moderate, sometimes Manual on automatic settings produces the cleaner image. If you've time to do it, drop the ISO on Manual to the lowest it can be while still exposing the scene correctly, if you're in a reasonably lit but imperfect area, like a streetlit housing estate, etc.
One of these days Sony will produce a camera that you can just point and shoot. One day.
PS: I've always found Handheld Twilight to be generally useless.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the tips I haven't yet encountered the tripod icon in Superior Auto mode except when I placed my Z5 on the table.. But handheld seems to be just impossible. Any tips to do it in handheld, aside from keeping my arms steady? I can keep my arms steady in manual Night Scene. How long do I have to wait to make it appear / what triggers does it look for based on your experience?
bloodfire1004 said:
Thanks for the tips I haven't yet encountered the tripod icon in Superior Auto mode except when I placed my Z5 on the table.. But handheld seems to be just impossible. Any tips to do it in handheld, aside from keeping my arms steady? I can keep my arms steady in manual Night Scene. How long do I have to wait to make it appear / what triggers does it look for based on your experience?
Click to expand...
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I wish I could tell you, lol. Tuck your elbows in against your ribs - that helps. If you can, lean your elbows on a arm rest or lean against a wall. You just need to be as steady as possible but it's tricky to do.
One tip; half pressing the camera key re-sets Superior Auto when released. If you do this a few times, it means that the mode is more active in looking for changes in exposure and behaviour and may help it come up quicker.
Once it does come up, half press and hold it and it should lock the mode so that you can find your focal point and take the shot.
Hope this helps.
I would add from myself the best results especially in detail are available throght Maual Mode 8mpx.
The autofocus is fast, low manual ISO and the usage of white balance gives really detailed pics even in low light.
It's also good to use tap-to-focus and consciously use light metering.
---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:26 PM ----------
bloodfire1004 said:
Thanks for the tips I haven't yet encountered the tripod icon in Superior Auto mode except when I placed my Z5 on the table.. But handheld seems to be just impossible. Any tips to do it in handheld, aside from keeping my arms steady? I can keep my arms steady in manual Night Scene. How long do I have to wait to make it appear / what triggers does it look for based on your experience?
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Click to collapse
Tripod appears actually only when the phone is set on a completely stable surface/stand.
Otherwise the phone detects any movement. Which is logical.
Thanks both for the helpful tips! Can't wait to try out and do my best to practice my 'tripod mode' Btw, what metering do you leave your phone at?
I've found to get tripod to appear reliably, shoot either while sitting or leaning/braced on something. I found it was the body swaying, and not the hands, that was causing most of the movement for me. If the tripod icon does not at first appear, take an initial shot in SA (without tripod icon), and it should then appear for the next shot.
Twilight mode means taking around 6 photos and interpolate the data between them all to create one final image. Samples are taken at high ISO and relatively fast shutter speed which it tries to keep fixed while changing ISO between samples. This results in a photo that has less noise, less chroma and preserves color and detail. Anti motionblur mode works similarly except parts of the samples with no blur are kept of each sample and then stitched together for final output.
EQ2000 said:
Twilight mode means taking around 6 photos and interpolate the data between them all to create one final image. Samples are taken at high ISO and relatively fast shutter speed which it tries to keep fixed while changing ISO between samples. This results in a photo that has less noise, less chroma and preserves color and detail. Anti motionblur mode works similarly except parts of the samples with no blur are kept of each sample and then stitched together for final output.
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Wow didn't know that before. Might be interesting to have a play around with those settings when I get the chance!
EQ2000 said:
Twilight mode means taking around 6 photos and interpolate the data between them all to create one final image. Samples are taken at high ISO and relatively fast shutter speed which it tries to keep fixed while changing ISO between samples. This results in a photo that has less noise, less chroma and preserves color and detail. Anti motionblur mode works similarly except parts of the samples with no blur are kept of each sample and then stitched together for final output.
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Click to collapse
Interesting,.. but I've never once managed to get it to produce usable results.
i keep testing different settings in low light conditions (manual 8 mp and 20 mp and s. auto 8 mp and 20 mp) and manual 20 mp keeps winning for me. color reproduction is just the best.
i don't see why everybody seems so happy with s. auto 8 mp
Barthlon said:
i keep testing different settings in low light conditions (manual 8 mp and 20 mp and s. auto 8 mp and 20 mp) and manual 20 mp keeps winning for me. color reproduction is just the best.
i don't see why everybody seems so happy with s. auto 8 mp
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Click to collapse
I am totally for Manual 8mpx.
Just because in real low light it's more crisp than 23mpx.
Other than that Manual 23mpx is great.
I can bring up the tripod quite consistently after the first shot (it keeps showing all those running, walking icons first time due to almost unavoidable initial motions).. Thanks to some helpful tips here, I'll have to try to get it up before the first shot.
One off-topic tip that could be pretty convenient. I'm pretty sure most of the Xperia shooters already know this. I leave the camera in my fav. manual mode (basically favorite ISO/res. & everything else set to auto or you could just pick a scene mode). I launch the camera using the awesome shutter button to get to auto mode directly. I tap the icon to launch the camera only when I need to get directly to my favorite manual 'preset'.
If we lock the iso as 200 in manual mode, I guess it is like a tripod mode, because the camera will adjust the shutter speed to match the iso , and it takes good pics in most circumstances.
So try this, find a place where the lighting aint great, indoors, under your desk etc, where iso would be about 1600 or even higher, take a shot in Manual mode but without adjusting anything, then change to auto mode and take exactly the same shot, then go to gallery, open each photo and check the iso using the 3 dot menu and select details, you'll see for the Manual shot the iso will read 1600 iso or 2000 iso or whatever and the photo will have some noise (obviously).
Now go to the photo you took in Auto mode and select 3 dot menu and select details, you'll see the iso is 0 and the shot is much less noisy (very clean), What the hell is going on here?? you can even check the F stop and shutter speed, they'll be the same but the Manual mode has high iso (like it should for a low light scene) but the auto mode will be much cleaner and have 0 as iso, and thus much cleaner photo, any idea's???
any ideas anyone?
I've also noticed this. could this be because of HDR?
aaaaleon said:
I've also noticed this. could this be because of HDR?
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Ah, yes, maybe thats it, will check, many thanks, appreciated
Nope not HDR, put HDR off and still get 0 iso in some shots (bright and low light), ok am stumped, have no idea what is happening...
Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
I saw a clue in the dpreview review for the G6. The reviewer thinks that a multi-frame technique is being used in very low light. This would combine sequential exposures kind of in an analogue to how HDR works. So while it would not be related to the HDR setting, it would use a similar technique. The sample image he posts as an example of this has no iso reported, possibly because there were multiple iso settings combined or else there's not a logical way to come up with the equivalent iso (or they were just too lazy to do so).
Jostian said:
So try this, find a place where the lighting aint great, indoors, under your desk etc, where iso would be about 1600 or even higher, take a shot in Manual mode but without adjusting anything, then change to auto mode and take exactly the same shot, then go to gallery, open each photo and check the iso using the 3 dot menu and select details, you'll see for the Manual shot the iso will read 1600 iso or 2000 iso or whatever and the photo will have some noise (obviously).
Now go to the photo you took in Auto mode and select 3 dot menu and select details, you'll see the iso is 0 and the shot is much less noisy (very clean), What the hell is going on here?? you can even check the F stop and shutter speed, they'll be the same but the Manual mode has high iso (like it should for a low light scene) but the auto mode will be much cleaner and have 0 as iso, and thus much cleaner photo, any idea's???
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Click to collapse
I did the test and on manual iso was 1750 and exposure 1/15. then on auto mode iso was on 1600 and exposure at 1/15, but on AUTO there is almost not noise...
jdock said:
I saw a clue in the dpreview review for the G6. The reviewer thinks that a multi-frame technique is being used in very low light. This would combine sequential exposures kind of in an analogue to how HDR works. So while it would not be related to the HDR setting, it would use a similar technique. The sample image he posts as an example of this has no iso reported, possibly because there were multiple iso settings combined or else there's not a logical way to come up with the equivalent iso (or they were just too lazy to do so).
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Click to collapse
Ah ok, makes sense, many thanks jdock, appreciated. Stupid thing is that one has no idea when it will do what you mention, i took 8 photos (in auto mode) of exactly the same scene and had 3 with no iso and 2 hdr shots and 3 with normal iso readings.
Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
It will mostly have zero ISO in low light condition. Which is amazing. That is why picture are less noisy. I don't have G6 but same thing happens on LG V20. I love the camera of V20 as I mostly take pictures indoor. I used to hate HTC 10 camera. All the pictures were extremely blurry and full of noise whether I keep HDR on, use manual mode(pro mode lowest ISO was 100) or flash.
Sent from my LG V20 using XDA Labs
Below two picture taken from HTC 10. This phone was so expensive (750$) and look at the quality of camera. One picture i have taken on afternoon and other evening time. I hope none of the HTC fan come and start giving explanation.
Sent from my LG V20 using XDA Labs
Hey Folks
I just wanted to share this with everyone...
I'm running OS. v. 4.101.. (Aug 2017)
I love this phone, its awesome, great Audio.. really fast, no stutter or lag.... 32Gb Internal w/SDCard, although I think the screen on the original XAU was a LITTLE brighter and more vivid..
Like some folk here.. I started out having Camera Shake / Blurry Images when taking a shot in Manual Mode and Ive been having the same red, purple noisy tint in very Low Light in Manual Mode that some have also posted about, but it can be a struggle to take steady shots in Manual Mode in daylight as well.. However, thanks to the Newer updated imaging algorithm found in the XZ1 and XZP which from what Ive read, SONY have used in our XA1U... it functions really great in Auto Mode, so SONY phones can now be used as great Point and Shoots.. and we no longer have to struggle anymore with ISO 50 or 100, WB and Metering.
But in Manual Mode, Ive found that by permanently keeping the camera at 12MPX (both Auto and Manual Modes)... gives great steadier shots... 20 and 23MPx modes, for me, give Blurred and poor image quality, kinda like camera shake. .. But as everyone knows MPx don't mean squat in "true" photography, only on YouTube and less MPx means less processing, so steadier image. Used to be the same in the older "Z" series where 8MPx was the magic number..
Also, in Manual Mode.. goto settings and set the Metering to "Centre" weighted, so your light metre is set to your point of focus and when you half-press the shutter to focus.. don't hold the focus for too long as it can shift, like most cameras will.
Give it a try and Lets know if it works for you.
Thanks for the suggestion. While I didn’t change all the settings you recommended, simply bumping the resolution down to 12 megapixels has improved many things, including shutter lag and processing speed. I noticed when using manual, taking photos from a moving car resulted in unusable images with ghosting or extreme shutter lag. It was very frustrating for a while there. 12 mp is slightly less sharp but also less noisy... I can live with it.
I’ve been a Sony Xperia user for a while now and I’ve always had mixed feelings about their smart phone Cameras. Megapixels are always high, with several innovative camera features and ‘firsts’, but image quality has never lived up to other brands.
I have taken amazing shots with these, but those are almost always outdoors and in sunlight.
The camera on results on the XA1 are essentially the same as I’ve gotten on all the Z series phones (Go figure, since it’s the Z5 camera sensor).
NightOrchid said:
Hey Folks
I just wanted to share this with everyone...
I'm running OS. v. 4.101.. (Aug 2017)
I love this phone, its awesome, great Audio.. really fast, no stutter or lag.... 32Gb Internal w/SDCard, although I think the screen on the original XAU was a LITTLE brighter and more vivid..
Like some folk here.. I started out having Camera Shake / Blurry Images when taking a shot in Manual Mode and Ive been having the same red, purple noisy tint in very Low Light in Manual Mode that some have also posted about, but it can be a struggle to take steady shots in Manual Mode in daylight as well.. However, thanks to the Newer updated imaging algorithm found in the XZ1 and XZP which from what Ive read, SONY have used in our XA1U... it functions really great in Auto Mode, so SONY phones can now be used as great Point and Shoots.. and we no longer have to struggle anymore with ISO 50 or 100, WB and Metering.
But in Manual Mode, Ive found that by permanently keeping the camera at 12MPX (both Auto and Manual Modes)... gives great steadier shots... 20 and 23MPx modes, for me, give Blurred and poor image quality, kinda like camera shake. .. But as everyone knows MPx don't mean squat in "true" photography, only on YouTube and less MPx means less processing, so steadier image. Used to be the same in the older "Z" series where 8MPx was the magic number..
Also, in Manual Mode.. goto settings and set the Metering to "Centre" weighted, so your light metre is set to your point of focus and when you half-press the shutter to focus.. don't hold the focus for too long as it can shift, like most cameras will.
Give it a try and Lets know if it works for you.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for this, I definitely see some improvements as you mentioned yourself...
Hi there,
I would like to install a AOSP ROM zip file, but whenever I look for it I never find it
Can someone help me please and give me some page or even a link?
Thank you
Just got the OnePlus 8 Pro today. Here's some real world photos with the phone. Everyone else post up what you got. I guess XDA compresses them down file sizes were 2.5 to 5.5 MB in size each. Any suggestions where else to upload them too?
Taken in normal mode
Normal mode
U can get great day shots with any phone from 2020...
Linuxkek said:
U can get great day shots with any phone from 2020...
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Went in my garage with one dim light on and then my patio with no lights on other than the pool lights...
Thanks for taking the time to do that. Those pictures look great!
Thanks for taking the time to show how better your car at house is compared to mine ??
nathlynn22 said:
Thanks for taking the time to show how better your car at house is compared to mine ??
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"Social distancing" where else would you like me to try and take photos at? :laugh: Cars are my other hobby and I take tons of pictures of them. Only other thing I take tons of photos of is my baby but that's not getting posted publicly.
Nice how the Ultramarine phone match the R8.
what about close objets?
or text photos
are they crisp ?
I am on s20 ultra , I cannot do close objets focused photos
nowy57 said:
what about close objets?
or text photos
are they crisp ?
I am on s20 ultra , I cannot do close objets focused photos
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay check the 4 photos below...I did them in low light conditions as well.
I took first photo of the dining room from a distance. The phone applied some correction to see better detail (aka brighter than the room really was). I then shot the same area much closer up to try and get the camera to give an idea what the true darkness was of the room. That's the second photo. It gives you an idea how dark the room really looked. I then took a picture of the chic-fil-a packet auto mode (no nightscape) and then switched to the super macro mode and got up close. That's with the light off in that room in the dark. Did a solid job in my opinion. I circled the chic-fil-a thing on the distant shot.
NO FLASH full auto mode on camera (except for activating super macro for the real close up shot).
Nice shots.... I am coming from a pixel 4XL ... The night scape shots are lacking... Has anybody used gcam?
Nosferatu. said:
Okay check the 4 photos below...I did them in low light conditions as well.
I took first photo of the dining room from a distance. The phone applied some correction to see better detail (aka brighter than the room really was). I then shot the same area much closer up to try and get the camera to give an idea what the true darkness was of the room. That's the second photo. It gives you an idea how dark the room really looked. I then took a picture of the chic-fil-a packet auto mode (no nightscape) and then switched to the super macro mode and got up close. That's with the light off in that room in the dark. Did a solid job in my opinion. I circled the chic-fil-a thing on the distant shot.
NO FLASH full auto mode on camera (except for activating super macro for the real close up shot).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The OP8 camera tends to produce red images in low light, which is evident from your 3rd image
No need to use GCam. The GCam is better only for selfies.