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Called joying and they told me the audio for the phone bluetooth connection only will come out of the front left speaker on all their units, can anyone confirm this? In my vw the sound while on a phone call comes out of all the speakers. Any car i have ever been in the sound comes out all speakers while on a call, not sure why on these it only comes out one channel if its true.
Thanks to anyone to confirm this.
On mine it comes out the passenger side. I know my Kenwood would allow me to select. I've gotten used to it so it's really no big deal
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madcowintucson said:
Called joying and they told me the audio for the phone bluetooth connection only will come out of the front left speaker on all their units, can anyone confirm this? In my vw the sound while on a phone call comes out of all the speakers. Any car i have ever been in the sound comes out all speakers while on a call, not sure why on these it only comes out one channel if its true.
Thanks to anyone to confirm this.
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Yup mine does the same thing and it really sounds bad. It comes out of the passenger side and middle dash speaker, but mostly just the tweeters....At highway speed I cant hear half the call.....I am hoping to find a way around this.
Oh wow OK. I had an idea u had a spare Bluetooth speaker laying around and I can use that in the car but it basically defeats controlling the audio from the dash. This blows my mind how bad the audio is in these. Now is that speaker out or rca out on yours?
madcowintucson said:
Oh wow OK. I had an idea u had a spare Bluetooth speaker laying around and I can use that in the car but it basically defeats controlling the audio from the dash. This blows my mind how bad the audio is in these. Now is that speaker out or rca out on yours?
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No, my current set up is still using the factory wiring harness. I havent had a chance to get my amps and trunk all set up for the RCA outs yet. I am hoping someone smarter than me can figure out a way to change the phone audio output settings.....
I am pretty sure it could be done with alsa mixer but I have no clue how to use it to route audio in Android it's very complicated and zero instructions.
madcowintucson said:
I am pretty sure it could be done with alsa mixer but I have no clue how to use it to route audio in Android it's very complicated and zero instructions.
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It really is a shame. The phone app is just sad all the way around on this unit. Not having a Favorites list is a another big downer.....and I dont know if yours does it at all, but when I am on a phone call I cannot access anything until the call is ended. Everything gets grayed out even when I minimize the call option on the bottom of the screen....I am pretty sure that is just a bug in the software that will get fixed in an update
I don't have a unit yet myself but at this rate it may be only good for controlling the phone but for that matter I can get a separate controller for that.
On my Joying it does this as well, all of the audio comes out of the front passenger speaker. However it doesn't sound bad. It gets very loud, and I can make and receive phone calls fine. The sound is mono as opposed to stereo, and that does sound weird, but I have no issue hearing calls.
Can people with a non-Joying unit chime in? does it do the same one speaker thing? or is that Joying specific?
In the old days this was common practice so as the speakers didn't cause feedback with the microphone which was most commonly mounted atop the drivers pillar. So the opposite speaker was used for audio
I have a Funrover head unit since almost a week and I have the same issue, sound is coming only from front speakers which make the call over bluetooth just a hell for me.
I barely can hear the caller specially while driving
this is a nightmare !!!
Sofia units use both front speakers.
All PX5, no matter Joying or other units, only use one front speaker
surfer63 said:
Sofia units use both front speakers.
All PX5, no matter Joying or other units, only use one front speaker
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Ok thanks, but that being said, is there a way to remediate to this ?
namek09 said:
Ok thanks, but that being said, is there a way to remediate to this ?
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I don't know. It is already going back to the PX3 models. Loads of topics written about it in the mtcb/d forums. It is best to search there.
phone audio is mono anyway, so I guess they just route it to one of the boxes.
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
do you have proper canbus?
Yes I do, according to them. I did get a red one though which was labeled for 2014 Outlander which I understand to be the newer can box for 2014-2015 EVO but the pictures I've seen show a black box and mine was red but labeled as the newer one. I thought the older 2008-2013 units were red. Not sure if that makes a difference or not but I do have sound from all speakers so it works it just cuts out at high volume. However, the amplifier settings on the Android unit do respond a bit strange. The sub slider seems to change all speaker output and not the sub directly and has a pretty minimal effect. The fader seems right at least as far as the channels go.
In the meantime I did contact the seller on Amazon about the issue. They told me the issue is caused by the high power protection of the factory amplifier. To fix the issue they want me to re-install the factory radio, turn the volume sliders down to the "middle part" and then install the Android unit again. This seems a bit strange to me but it could be the factory radio interfaces with the amp in a different way and is able to control the gain of the sub and the Android unit cannot. With the newer Android unit I noticed the max volume is much louder so maybe I'm hitting some sort of over current protection causing the amp to momentarily shut down. Has anyone ever heard of this?
What I'm not sure about is when this procedure would be needed. Is it because I had the amp slider on factory unit is set too high before I removed it or is it because I disconnected the battery and the amp defaults to a higher setting that only the factory unit can adjust? It would be a real shame if every time power is cut from the amp I need to repeat the process. I fear that may be the case because I'm not sure the amp has an internal EPROM or non-volatile memory that's saving the settings and I did in fact disconnect the battery.
Either way I'll be happy to finally get to the bottom of the issue and I'm sure I'll find out whether or not I'll need to swap the radios again. Until then I'll keep the factory unit closeby. Luckily it's very easy to swap out so fingers crossed this fixes the problem. It's going to be a few days till I pull the radio out since I'm also waiting for a replacement USB harness since one of mine is inop due to a damaged wire.
Please let me know if anyone has any input about this. Thanks again.
Ditto - did you try swapping back and lowering the volume, if so, did it resolve the issue?
I have only had mine for 3 days, Dasiata HA2106-S720 with Dasaita CB003 Canbus harness in a 2013 Mitsubishi ASX with Rockford Fosgate. I would agree that the volume seems higher, so there could be some truth in the Sellers theory.
By the way my experience with Subwoofer control also matches yours - adjusting the lowest frequencies on the Graphic Equalizer seems to affect the main speakers more than the subwoofer, and I am not getting the same 'punchy' bass as the OEM Head Unit.
TSimone said:
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
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You made also the Car Settings to work well ? Things like keyless operations, windshiel wipers operation, lights time out, auto fold mirror, etc ? Thanks.
Hey all,
I upgraded from a PX5 Xtrons. Had no issues with it.
When volume is muted, there's no sound. When on 1 or higher, there's a background fuzz. Not static but just a general oldschool hifi 'furry' sound. It doesn't get louder if I turn the volume up. I've tried unplugging everything but the main harness. Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.
I'm using the Xtrons harness because I didn't want to have to run a whole new one to the boot where the factory amp is. It looks like there's a couple of pins different too. Hoping it's not that...
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Honestly most of these units in my experience have some. WiFi, cell phones, radio etc can sometimes be picked up by the amplifier circuit and you'll hear their resonate frequencies through the car stereo (turn any stereo up loud and put a phone near the active input cable... you'll hear it). Honestly the best thing you can do is make sure the radio is grounded to your chassis directly, that way a lot of these spurious signals are filtered properly and their pesky resonates cease to exist!
Oh and it usually quits when you turn it to 0 because it actually completely shuts down the amplifier...
Thanks for the response. I’ll pull the head unit out at some stage and try and ground it. If it fixes it I’ll report back. Thanks again.
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Hi,
i recently recieved this unit (supposedly running 10.1 w. 9-inch screen, 1GB/16GB, but from other threads here i assume that this would not be quite true (Android version....)). Anyhow, after installing it in my car, i noticed that the stock car radio ceased to work and i wonder if it would be possible to get sound working from it again, even if this Android head-unit is connected?
No one has this problem? at all?
Sure, i have the radio of this Android unit working, but i'm just trying to understand why it would cut off the stock radio?
my03 said:
No one has this problem? at all?
Sure, i have the radio of this Android unit working, but i'm just trying to understand why it would cut off the stock radio?
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I'm having the same problem did you manage to find a solution to the problem
yes and no. On my unit, there is this L+R "aux in" connectors hanging out of the main harness (that comes out of the Android unit) and the sellers (after 5 roundtrips of mails, videos of me explaining the issue, etc) told me to connect those two to the "aux-out". I believe they meant the aux-out on my car stereo (nothing such exists on the Kenwood unit that the car came with). What i DID try was to connect the audio-out (that also comes out of the Android head unit) to the aux-in and then i actually got sound from my car CD/Radio. Problem with that was that it now came out mixed together with the audio from the Android unit.
To make matters worse, as soon as i exited the Android unit radio app, the sound from my CD stopped playing as well (so muted). Only if i had either my radio on (android) or if i played something from USB (mp3) the sound came through.
The seller then told me to launch the AVIN app as that would be the only way to make it work, which it did not. To top it all off, having it connected like this (even if i dropped the volume on the Android unit to 0) was causing this constant "hum" in my speakers so it was not practical at all.
So no, it was never solved and imho it never will be solved (unless possibly if you have some aux-out connectors available?)
Thanks for reply I was thinking along the same lines myself which is good, as my car has an aux in so I was going to see if I could find aux out and connect it, I will have a good try this week and keep you updated, which vehicle is your unit installed in by the way
Hi Mercedes-w204, i have a Subaru Legacy 2005 with a Kenwood (gx-201-LHF2) radio/CD unit (without aux)
I got in touch with the sellers and now they are telling me that a filter might help sorting out the issue, lets see where it all ends up
In general, these units are replacing stock audio altogether. It's not recommended to keep stock stereos period.
I would tend to agree with you, but the issue i have is that the stock radio is rock solid where this one leaves certain things to desire (it sometimes has static, mutes occationally, etc). Also, i would like to keep the CD available and basically use it for maps/nav, USB audio and BT (prefferably routed through the stock stereo).
my03 said:
I would tend to agree with you, but the issue i have is that the stock radio is rock solid where this one leaves certain things to desire (it sometimes has static, mutes occationally, etc). Also, i would like to keep the CD available and basically use it for maps/nav, USB audio and BT (prefferably routed through the stock stereo).
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Wouldn't it be easier to just use your Android phone then? But I see what you mean and fully agree with you, which is why I heavily mod these units - hardware and software alike.
You can improve the radio quality considerably, nearly to DAB level. The sound can also be improved to very hi-end output levels. Frankly, enough things can be improved in these units at a very low cost (provided you have the equipment and intermediate soldering skills). T give you an example, this is what I know is possible to achieve with these units:
Enhance sound to HIFI quality
Improve radio to close to DAB output quality
Improve wifi speed 10-20x times
Improve microphone by up to 5 times
Enhance the speed of the operating system by 50%
Reduced overheating by up to 200%
Stabilize the Android OS while adding endless tweaking options for UI, sound, and other functions
Wow. Yeah it would be needed imho as those areas (that you describe) could be improved. Anywhere where mods like these are described?
iceblue1980 said:
Wouldn't it be easier to just use your Android phone then? But I see what you mean and fully agree with you, which is why I heavily mod these units - hardware and software alike.
You can improve the radio quality considerably, nearly to DAB level. The sound can also be improved to very hi-end output levels. Frankly, enough things can be improved in these units at a very low cost (provided you have the equipment and intermediate soldering skills). T give you an example, this is what I know is possible to achieve with these units:
Enhance sound to HIFI quality
Improve radio to close to DAB output quality
Improve wifi speed 10-20x times
Improve microphone by up to 5 times
Enhance the speed of the operating system by 50%
Reduced overheating by up to 200%
Stabilize the Android OS while adding endless tweaking options for UI, sound, and other functions
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Click to collapse
Consider posting "how tos" - if the results are as good as the claims.
marchnz said:
Consider posting "how tos" - if the results are as good as the claims.
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The instructions are available here and on 4PDA forums, to name a few. It would take me an insanely long time to put everything here. I have a daytime job and a family so, unfortunately, no time to do what you asked. I might add some How-To videos to my Youtube channel later on.
Just finished installing my Atoto S8 last night in my 1996 Lexus sc300 (bypassed original amp, kept factory sub amp and 10" sub) everything was working great last night and today. But tonight a couple of hours ago I lost all sound output. Nothing not even a hum from the speakers or sub.
Dead amp in the unit?
Also, the sub would constantly slightly move at like 20hz or lower even with the key off and out (enough to barely hear but below it's real response range) since the install. I used the car harness ground instead of a dedicated ground for the head unit, so maybe that is what killed it?(I know. Stupid)
Also, the sub would pop about 15 seconds after the car was shut off and it almost sounded like a power surge when it happened.
But when the sound went out, no odd pop or anything. Just like I muted it.
Just needing thoughts. Really don't wanna rip my dash apart again.
mechgt5 said:
Just finished installing my Atoto S8 last night in my 1996 Lexus sc300 (bypassed original amp, kept factory sub amp and 10" sub) everything was working great last night and today. But tonight a couple of hours ago I lost all sound output. Nothing not even a hum from the speakers or sub.
Dead amp in the unit?
Also, the sub would constantly slightly move at like 20hz or lower even with the key off and out (enough to barely hear but below it's real response range) since the install. I used the car harness ground instead of a dedicated ground for the head unit, so maybe that is what killed it?(I know. Stupid)
Also, the sub would pop about 15 seconds after the car was shut off and it almost sounded like a power surge when it happened.
But when the sound went out, no odd pop or anything. Just like I muted it.
Just needing thoughts. Really don't wanna rip my dash apart again.
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Hey man, what ended up happening with your S8 Gen2, did you get a replacement or sort out the problem? I'm considering purchasing one.