I got a GS unit for my BMW 3-series (E46). It came from "Drive My Way" on Aliexpress, and appears to come from the parent company szkianda. (szkianda.cn)
I'm an electrical engineer, so the first thing I did was power it up on a bench power supply. I found the unit drew 250mA, even when fully off (not in sleep mode). Opening up the unit showed me that the ST TDA7388 audio amplifier never shuts off, and sure enough, the spec sheet says is has a 200+mA idle current.
The issue is that 250mA is 6A a day, which will kill a car battery in 10 days or less. This is not acceptable. Generally, the whole draw of a car should be 60mA or less when everything is "off".
I hacked around inside and used the Standby pin on the ST TDA7388 to turn it off when the head unit was off, and now my draw is 60mA. Much better, but not perfect. The stock BMW radio for instance is 6mA. This is likely common with all GS units using the same internal board, since the design error is inside the PCB, not the vehicle wiring.
Just a warning for those looking at these units. Wonder if it's common with other manufacturers?
Another bug I found- the key backlights turn on and the screen dims whenever the turn signals are used, as if the head lights are on. This is the CAN interface box. You can fix this by unplugging both orange wires from the CAN box, and connecting them together. Now the car illumination circuit powers the keys and screen dimming, not the CAN box. Additionally, the dash dimmer works, which it doesn't with the CAN box in line.
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Hello everyone.
People, I recently bought a car radio of Joying brand. The model is the JY-UQ130U with RK3188 1.6 GHz processor, 7-inch screen, 1024x600 resolution.
Anyway, I'm having a problem with this car radio. Every time I turn off my car for a longer time, for example thirty minutes or more, the radio information is reset (time, date and presets radio stations).
Is there anything that can be done in this case? Is there any way to prevent this from happening?
Taking the opportunity, it is possible (and recommended) to make the car radio works with the car turned off and without putting the key in the ACC position I?
Thank you very much.
I hope you can help me.
You have it wired wrong. One of the cables require 12V when the cars switch is off. The other 12V power wire wired to be off when the switch is off. The clock requires constant power. Probably reversed the 2 12V wire.
Not a radio problem.
Joying 10.1 with 6.1 update
96 lexus ls400 with 6.0.1 marshmallow started having serious issues. First, the display won't turn off. It continues running even if the car is off with no key in ignition and the car is locked. Also the buttons and screen light up but the buttons don't work at all, not even the power button on the detatchable face or the reset button next to it. Also, the USB connections don't work so I can install my photos videos or music via usb...what the heck is going on? I haven't had the unit for a year yet and I take excellent care of all my belongings especially my cars. The manufacturer takes a year and a day to respond and hardly speak clear even in messages so I'm lost. No warranty either. I've tried everything except returning it or buying a new one or taking it apart.
I purchased a Joying single-DIN 6.2" head unit from aliexpress and am having two issues. When I first turned it on the display was completely scrambled. I let it boot & sit for a while, but eventually ended up hitting the reset button. I did that three total times, each time the display became (oddly) less scrambled. After the third, it booted up completely normally and I got to work finishing the install.
Once finished, I found the power antenna trigger was not working. No 12v from the stereo. I checked the fuse, then checked for power directly at the stereo connector. Nothing. I temporarily switched the amp-cont with the ant-cont wires, and the antenna worked but the amp did not. So, I'm 100% confident the issue is the stereo - not my wiring or anything else. The car happens to use ISO connectors, so there wasn't much wiring to do.
I dug around in the "developer" menu of Car Settings and found an entry I believe says "Antenna always on" or something like that. I tried enabling it, but the setting wouldn't "stick." Leaving the menu and coming back, the option would be off again. I unplugged the stereo entirely from the car, I hit the reset button a couple more times - got nowhere. I think I made a mistake when I eventually used the Android "reset to defaults" option. The display scrambled itself again. Here's the weird thing: While resetting, the car's antenna moved - I didn't see it, but I heard the motor run in each direction, up and down, in quick succession. Guess it may have moved an inch. After a few resets & key cycles the display came back up, but I was missing a few things - the "live" wallpaper and Torque, for example. I found the apks in the file system and reinstalled without incident. However, *still* no antenna, the antenna developer option still doesn't stick, and the display periodically scrambles itself. Much fun. Do like.
I contacted Joying, who politely offered to send a new display cable but informed me it was National Day in China and would be off for a week. So, maybe National Week? They asked if that was okay, and I let them know it is - I'm not pressed for time, it's no problem.
In the interim, thought I'd ask the brain trust here for opinions. It seems totally logical antenna control is just a software setting, so perhaps there's a fix. The display is more troubling, but perhaps a new cable will indeed fix it. Anybody have any opinions? Is it feasible to download a full Android 6 ROM (?) package and install it, see if a full rewrite fixes things? Something else?
Thought I should be polite and post the answer...
My display issue was a small internal cable connecting the mainboard to the display daughterboard. It was physically damaged, probably upon assembly.
The antenna issue was a VR on the mainboard was not outputting any voltage. Joying pointed it out to me and I verified with a multimeter. Probably a defective part.
I returned the defective head unit (was $$$ - price of buying from China, I suppose) and they promptly sent a replacement. The replacement did everything correctly, has been installed for a week now.
There are definitely some built-in quirks with these things which probably don't need to be reiterated here. Hopefully with some software tweaks I can manage most of them. This is all expected - the hardware works, and in my head that's all I was paying for anyway.
Now, to go find a better music player, launcher, and hopefully a simple way to actually shut the head unit down rather than sleeping it... this car tends to sit for a week or two at a time and the small (~.010a) draw puts the battery at risk over such long intervals.
Just out of curiosity, how much was shipping to return it back to them?
Did they offer to cover any of that?
Guys! Is there a way to control the antenna only when the "Radio" is switched on ? in my case the power antenna is extracted and retracted when I start or switch off the car. Not when using the "Radio". In my previous Kenwood unit (Non Android) power antenna was operated only when the Radio was used. Yes I know the Android radio is a software compared to the Kenwood unit. But there should be a way to operate the antenna on demand doesn't it ?
Gayan said:
Guys! Is there a way to control the antenna only when the "Radio" is switched on ? in my case the power antenna is extracted and retracted when I start or switch off the car. Not when using the "Radio". In my previous Kenwood unit (Non Android) power antenna was operated only when the Radio was used. Yes I know the Android radio is a software compared to the Kenwood unit. But there should be a way to operate the antenna on demand doesn't it ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that is not possible. In these kind of android units the radio is always (!) switched on. The radio app determines whether you hear it or not.
surfer63 said:
No, that is not possible. In these kind of android units the radio is always (!) switched on. The radio app determines whether you hear it or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this is an older post, but I am troubleshooting this same issue now. I believe this is (or at least should be) possible. Here are my findings from 3x different Joying models that I have tested.
UL135N2: Android 5.1? (This is the best/desired functionality)
* Power antenna extends when power on to the HU only if the radio app/tuner is active. (Turn vehicle on)
* Power antenna will extend when power on from pushing the volume knob (vehicle running with radio app active). Antenna also extends when opening radio app. Antenna stays extended when using home button instead of back button to switch to another non-audio player app. Radio app keeps running and antenna stays extended when switching to nav app.
* Power antenna will retract when power off from pushing the volume knob (vehicle running with radio app active). Antenna also retracts when closing radio app via back button or switching to another audio app (ie..BT radio, aux, etc.) after using home button while radio app is running.
* Power antenna retracts almost immediately when power off to the HU (Turn vehicle off)
UO135P4V: Android 8.0 (This is OK because the volume knob power at least controls the antenna)
* Power antenna extends when power is applied to the HU whether radio app is active or inactive (Turn vehicle on)
* Power antenna will extend when power on from pushing the volume knob (with radio app active or inactive)
* Power antenna will retract when power off from pushing the volume knob (with radio app active or inactive)
* Power antenna retracts almost immediately when power off to the HU (Turn vehicle off)
UO135N4G: Android 8.1 (This is worst functionality of all units so far)
* Power antenna extends when power is applied to the HU
* Power antenna will NOT retract when power off from pushing the volume knob (vehicle running with radio app active or inactive)
* Power antenna retracts after several minutes when power off to the HU (Turn vehicle off)
2000 Toyota 4Runner Stereo Wiring
Constant 12V+ Blue/Yellow (or Blue/Black)
Switched 12V+ Gray
Ground Brown
Illumination Purple (Violet)
Dimmer N/A
Antenna Trigger Black/White
Amp Trigger N/A
Joying HU Pinout - (Note that N/A means that there is nothing available for this connection in the vehicle wiring)
Constant 12V+ (BATT) Yellow
Switched 12V+ (ACC) Red
Ground (GND) Black
Illumination (ILLUM) Orange+White
Antenna (ANT.CONT) Blue
Dimmer N/A
N/A (BACK) Orange
N/A (BRAKE) Blue+White
N/A (AMP.CONT) Orange+Black
N/A (KEY1) Brown
N/A (KEY2) Pink
N/A (CAM.IN) Yellow RCA
I am currently using a Toyota harness supplied by Joying. I plan to swap the amp.cont & ant.cont wires per some other posts to see if that might work. I found that the Metra 70-1761 harness seems to jump the amp & ant wires in the harness.
On another note, there are a couple settings (Antenna always on & Amp ON/Off) in the HU that seem to have no affect on functionality. I have reported this to Joying, but they "do not support this feature".
Hi all,
I believe that I am seeing the same issue in my Joying JY-UO138P4 radio as the antenna control lead never goes to 12v. Being that my car does not have a retractable antenna and only requires the power lead for the aftermarket adapter (amplifier); would there be any adverse effects to connecting the antenna control wire to the head units amp control wire and have it on whenever the head unit is on?
thanks,
dave
fdm225 said:
Hi all,
I believe that I am seeing the same issue in my Joying JY-UO138P4 radio as the antenna control lead never goes to 12v. Being that my car does not have a retractable antenna and only requires the power lead for the aftermarket adapter (amplifier); would there be any adverse effects to connecting the antenna control wire to the head units amp control wire and have it on whenever the head unit is on?
thanks,
dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that you'd need 12v on the ANT-CONT wire if you don't have a power antenna. Just connect the AMP-CONT to your amplifier and you should be good to go.
thesameguy said:
I purchased a Joying single-DIN 6.2" head unit from aliexpress and am having two issues. When I first turned it on the display was completely scrambled. I let it boot & sit for a while, but eventually ended up hitting the reset button. I did that three total times, each time the display became (oddly) less scrambled. After the third, it booted up completely normally and I got to work finishing the install.
Once finished, I found the power antenna trigger was not working. No 12v from the stereo. I checked the fuse, then checked for power directly at the stereo connector. Nothing. I temporarily switched the amp-cont with the ant-cont wires, and the antenna worked but the amp did not. So, I'm 100% confident the issue is the stereo - not my wiring or anything else. The car happens to use ISO connectors, so there wasn't much wiring to do.
I dug around in the "developer" menu of Car Settings and found an entry I believe says "Antenna always on" or something like that. I tried enabling it, but the setting wouldn't "stick." Leaving the menu and coming back, the option would be off again. I unplugged the stereo entirely from the car, I hit the reset button a couple more times - got nowhere. I think I made a mistake when I eventually used the Android "reset to defaults" option. The display scrambled itself again. Here's the weird thing: While resetting, the car's antenna moved - I didn't see it, but I heard the motor run in each direction, up and down, in quick succession. Guess it may have moved an inch. After a few resets & key cycles the display came back up, but I was missing a few things - the "live" wallpaper and Torque, for example. I found the apks in the file system and reinstalled without incident. However, *still* no antenna, the antenna developer option still doesn't stick, and the display periodically scrambles itself. Much fun. Do like.
I contacted Joying, who politely offered to send a new display cable but informed me it was National Day in China and would be off for a week. So, maybe National Week? They asked if that was okay, and I let them know it is - I'm not pressed for time, it's no problem.
In the interim, thought I'd ask the brain trust here for opinions. It seems totally logical antenna control is just a software setting, so perhaps there's a fix. The display is more troubling, but perhaps a new cable will indeed fix it. Anybody have any opinions? Is it feasible to download a full Android 6 ROM (?) package and install it, see if a full rewrite fixes things? Something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to bring this back
i dug into my car setting developer mode, where do you find the "antenna always on" option from?
I am afraid I have no recollection, but I might be able to poke around this weekend & let you know.
(As a side note, in case I didn't post it at the time - the problem with the antenna turned out to be the mainboard... I traced the circuit and found no output from the stereo under any conditions. It was eventually replaced.)
Hi All,
I just got this unit from amazon. I have the quad core 2GB RAM 16GB ROM 10.1" version which came with Android 8.1. Installation was easy and the unit seems very nice and fast enough but when ever I try to open an app like spotify or youtube or even OBD apps the screen goes black with "DO NOT operate while driving" error. I tried installing a third party launcher and it caused this error every time I tried to go to the home screen. Google maps does not cause this issue.
I currently wired the rear cable to ground just in case wiring causing the issue but that did not help. Under the settings there is no option in the video section which would allow me to turn off this error. Overall the rom on this as is looks half baked missing bunch of options. I do not even have a system update option for me to flash a different firmware.
Any suggestions that could help me get rid of this annoying issue and use this unit properly?
Thank you all.
Seems nobody cares but I finally figured out the solution. Under settings>car options>about there is another settings button. If you select that and enter "8888" it will take you to the deep settings menu where in drive options you change "Break" to "0". This will get rid of this bug permanently.
Thanks in anyways.
I care
I just had the same exact problem with the same radio
thanks so much for taking the time to update your post!
Do you have anymore information on tips and tricks for this radio?
Hi, tried this on my mekede head unit, took a few minutes to figure out which menu to follow and the part to alter but it worked great. Awesome. Cheers
Eonon ga2168k
Good job on figuring it out... I went through this with the same exact head unit...
Let me expand on this "problem" a little further please...
So most head units now are more than just a radio/CD player ..specifically ones with DVD players (or ones that can play any video really) the manufacturers can be held liable for people getting into an accident while driving because they were watching a movie or had a movie playing (Cant fix stupid) on their head unit located on the dash (as well as it being illegal in most (if not all) states in the USA).
REAR DVD players are exempt from this because... well they are in the rear... and not in the driver's line of sight.
With that being said, one wire on the harness that came with this unit (wire #23 I think) is labeled " BRAKE CONTROL" - IF (a big IF here) EONON set this up like most other head unit manufacturers that make an in dash DVD/video display, this wire needs to be connected to the brake switch so that it receives a signal saying that the brake is "on" and the vehicle is not moving...therefore "SAFE" to operate this unit (watch a movie, video, make setting changes, brew you a cup of coffee, paint your nails etc etc etc......)
Because there is NO REALLY good diagram for wiring this to the brake switch... you are left with a guess as to how it is to be done. (Should just be a positive connection from parking brake to wire.... I think... I guess...)???
This brake safety feature has been in other units for years and a LOT of people negate this circuit (I wont list the ways... it's easy to figure out) I even know of some car installers that worked for a national electronic retail store that would "bypass" this circuit in the customer's cars.
I am glad Eonon put this programming control into the back end of the unit because I, (having installed a few radios in numerous vehicles I have owned) REALLY didnt want to go through the trouble of bypassing the circuit... so shutting it off, on The unit was just as well for me. 1 less wire to worry about.
Just go into the root menu as stated above, and select "BRAKE" then adjust to 0. This removes all enable/disable requirements for that circuit.
Great unit so far... wish Eonon would spend more time writing a more informative instruction manual.. and maybe hire an American or British to actually write the darn thing so people could understand it.
Hope this helps.
I have the same unit but I can't get the panel to light up. Anyone knows how to wire to the car to get the panel to light up?
syung61 said:
I have the same unit but I can't get the panel to light up. Anyone knows how to wire to the car to get the panel to light up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Panel as in the buttons not on the touch screen? (Ie power, volume up volume down )
Wire (I believe its orange or blue in color if my memory serves me well) regardless it has a tag on it that says "ILL" or ILLUM... that's for illumination. You need to figure out what wire in your car is for illumination for the stereo... if you cant, run a wire from your headlight switch that controls the parking light. USUALLY, there is a wire for the stereo to make it light up when the headlights are turned on. You just need to find it.
Wyatte Steel said:
Panel as in the buttons not on the touch screen? (Ie power, volume up volume down )
Wire (I believe its orange or blue in color if my memory serves me well) regardless it has a tag on it that says "ILL" or ILLUM... that's for illumination. You need to figure out what wire in your car is for illumination for the stereo... if you cant, run a wire from your headlight switch that controls the parking light. USUALLY, there is a wire for the stereo to make it light up when the headlights are turned on. You just need to find it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep. In the Eonon harness, it's an Orange wire with a tag on it that says "ILL". just hook it to any wire that feeds your dash lights.
Dears,
anybody tried Eonon GA2178 - 10" Android 9 Head Unit?
I'm actually on Eonon GA2168K - 10" Android 8 Head Unit, it's a good device with minor problems.
Anytime developers fix a problem they introduce an other problem and there's no community support for MTK chipsets.
Because of this I'm evaluating the new Eonon GA2178, that is quite similar but based on Rockchip chipset.
Tks!
Brake setting
On my Ga2172 the brake setting shows open close or speed, so which is it to watch video on the move?
So I've had absolutely no help from Atoto support on this, but the problem I'm facing is that each time I turn the key or flick right on to ignition my unit boots from scratch each time. I really had hoped for a 2s boot up not complete power on cycles.
If it's a case of my wiring, the harness goes into a steering wheel loom (Connect2) and then on to the car plug. There isn't any visible option of running the yellow wire to a permanent 12v source. It's possible all is wired up correctly and my vehicle (Nissan nv200) has a switched feed. Any thoughts?
invertgoat said:
So I've had absolutely no help from Atoto support on this, but the problem I'm facing is that each time I turn the key or flick right on to ignition my unit boots from scratch each time. I really had hoped for a 2s boot up not complete power on cycles.
If it's a case of my wiring, the harness goes into a steering wheel loom (Connect2) and then on to the car plug. There isn't any visible option of running the yellow wire to a permanent 12v source. It's possible all is wired up correctly and my vehicle (Nissan nv200) has a switched feed. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll need to get a multimeter and check to see if the 12v constant wire is truly getting a constant 12v. Test it as soon as you turn the key off and if it does have 12v then wait a couple hours and test it before turning the ignition on to ensure it's not something in the vehicle that is turning it off after a period of time.
If at any time that wire does not have a constant 12v then it's an issue/'feature' with your vehicle. If it always has 12v then potentially an issue with the HU.
kramttocs said:
You'll need to get a multimeter and check to see if the 12v constant wire is truly getting a constant 12v. Test it as soon as you turn the key off and if it does have 12v then wait a couple hours and test it before turning the ignition on to ensure it's not something in the vehicle that is turning it off after a period of time.
If at any time that wire does not have a constant 12v then it's an issue/'feature' with your vehicle. If it always has 12v then potentially an issue with the HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since my OP I actually cut and fused the yellow wire on my harness out of the unit to a permanent 12v source on my fusebox. I then cut the red accessory wire on the head unit and connected it to the yellow wire on the harness. Kind od screwy and in reverse but I guess it makes sense as my old radio didn't need a permanent 12v. It was a simple on off thing.
Fingers crossed I haven't flattened my battery...
I picked up an Ali Express "Sadocom" 4GB /64GB head unit for a 2000-2006 Toyota Corolla and several other related Toyotas. It's slightly wider than a regular 2din Android, but it retains the 7" screen and has two knobs and several buttons on each side. I'm putting it into a 1998 Dodge truck, and it is replacing an older 1GB/16GB unit. The new unit came with ZERO documents, there is no wiring diagram on the unit. It takes several days for the seller to respond, and they are lackluster at best- example I asked for a wiring diagram, and the response was "Which one?". In the about the unit screen, it says it is a 8259, or 8259 pro depending on which screen you are on.
I found a pinout site that had data for the Corolla, and used it by cross-referencing the connectors on the new unit. Most of the wires were the common yellow= battery, red= accessory, black= ground etc. It powered up right away and the illumination lights up when I turn on the parking lights. Speaker balance is correct. The main connector is a 16-pin connector. The only wire I did not use was the blue antenna/amp power since the truck has neither. There is a small gauge black wire with small ring terminal coming from the area of the accessory connectors. It's only a couple of inches long.
Problems I need help with solved (no thanks to vendor):
1. Steering wheel controls. There are two unidentified wires (plus the small black one on a different part of the radio), so I presumed they were the SWC wires. One was Orange/Black and the other White/Black (it was smaller and not next to the white speaker wire, that W/B wire was larger). The older Android I had in the truck worked OK with the factory SWC. My truck uses a +/- SWC system. I tried connecting the Orange/Black to + and the White/Black to - but could not program any button. I also reversed these and the radio sees no SWC input when I try to program them.
Solution: Use OR/BK radio wire to truck SWC + wire, and truck SWC - wire to radio ground wire. Both sets of controls working properly. See attached PDF for diagram.
2. (solved, see update below) I can't change the logo or any other password-protected menu functions. I Googled Sadocom and 8259 and password w/o any success. I read through several threads here, and tried the following codes w/o success (the input limit is 4 numbers- no letters)
Solution: 5678 works.
UPDATE- I did more reading and 5678 worked to unlock the radio.
UPDATE 2- The accessory power problem was user error! I forgot on these older vehicles accessory is one position back from off, not one position forward (I thought accessory was off). I was used to it being one forward after working on some newer vehicles. I have deleted that problem from the post and title for brevity.
UPDATE 3- I measured the two wires in question, and both are putting out about 3.2V positive. I wired the OR/BK to my RD/BK SWC positive wire, and my BK/BR SWC negative to the radio's ground wire. Voila! Working SWC. PDF diagram attached.