Hi, everyone. This time I'm gonna show you how to dismantling your Redmi Note 2 and how to avoid letting dust in the front camera.
You can simply check if you'll get this trouble by this way:
Cut a slice of paper by scissors or your hair and try to stick into left of the receiver. If you can stick into it, then your front camera will be dusty someday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, these are the tools you need:
1. Your RN2
2. Scissors
3. Double-sided tape
4. Foam rubber tape (Optional)
5. Alcohol
6. Tiny Screwdriver
7. Glasses cloth
8. Fingernail
9. Patient
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Let get started!
First, screw up "12" tiny screws, two of it has stickers on it. I don't even want to send back China to repair it, so don't worry about the stickers.
now, you have to use your nail stick into the left corner of the phone, then follow the slit between main-board base and main-board cover.
You should slit the left side till the "volume + " button and stop here.
Now, stick into the first place and start to slit right, you'll meet right down corner, then keep on.
Keeps slit to the right up corner near the screw hole than stop here.
Here's the most difficult part, you should carefully hold both side of the cover and slowly pull up them by your prefer hand.
The other hand, again use your nail to slit into it, this would be hard, so be patient and carefully, or you'll brake your main-board cover into two piece
After you finish previous step, it is getting easy now.
What I point out is the front camera module, carefully pick it up with your nail , you can clean the dust now
Be very carefully that don't bend the cable or you'll screw all up :silly:
Use whatever you like to clean up the space between camera and glass.
Now, times to seal it up!
Use the double-side tape to stick on the back of the front camera module
First, cut it to fit the size of camera and stick on it one by one. Don't forget to remove both of the sticker.
I use 4 piece of the tape. Remember, don't remove the last sticker of the tape!
After that, you can put back your camera module.
Now, you can put back your main-board cover and try to boot your device, if it boot up and nothing hurt, then you are free to go :good:
All the pics took by my old Lenovo A820
Hello!
First of all thank you for the tutorial. I am going to use it for sure - I don't want to send it back either!
I don't have to do the test, I already have dust
So, there are two things that i need you to clarify for me, if possible.
1. I find this part "You should slit the left side till the "volume - " button and stop here.
Now, stick into the first place and start to slit right, you'll meet right down corner, then keep on.
Keeps slit to the right up corner near the screw hole than stop here." really difficult. I found this myfixguide.com/manual/xiaomi-redmi-note-2-teardown/ that doesn't say that it's hard, but I tottaly trust you.
So, when I meet with my nail the volume - , then I stick my nail "more inside" (sorry for this)? And when you say left and right, you mean as I look the phone from the back, right? From which corner do I start?
2. In the last photo, i can't see how you plase the tape, which is the most important I guess.
Can you upload a video or pictures on the route your nail followed to open the device please? Of course not open it again, from the outside, just to be sure.
Thank you in advance and for your time. Hope we will find a solution for this problem
AntwnisGr said:
Hello!
First of all thank you for the tutorial. I am going to use it for sure - I don't want to send it back either!
I don't have to do the test, I already have dust
So, there are two things that i need you to clarify for me, if possible.
1. I find this part "You should slit the left side till the "volume - " button and stop here.
Now, stick into the first place and start to slit right, you'll meet right down corner, then keep on.
Keeps slit to the right up corner near the screw hole than stop here." really difficult. I found this myfixguide.com/manual/xiaomi-redmi-note-2-teardown/ that doesn't say that it's hard, but I tottaly trust you.
So, when I meet with my nail the volume - , then I stick my nail "more inside" (sorry for this)? And when you say left and right, you mean as I look the phone from the back, right? From which corner do I start?
2. In the last photo, i can't see how you plase the tape, which is the most important I guess.
Can you upload a video or pictures on the route your nail followed to open the device please? Of course not open it again, from the outside, just to be sure.
Thank you in advance and for your time. Hope we will find a solution for this problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry about not clearly explained the detail of how to tear down.
1.
Here's the route how I tear down my device, and sorry I just modify the image to show you this because I don't have my second device now.
It is easy to stick your fingernail into left bottom corner, and do like the image shows. On left side, you'll reach "volume + " (sorry it is "+" not "-" , my bad.)and near infrared blaster, and on the other side, you'll reach near 3.5 mm audio hole.
It is not recommend to keeps using your nail to slit the upper side because you can see the gap is not a straight line , you should hold both side near the position like the image below and using one hand on it like to open your back cover while using the other hand's nail to stick into the gap to helping the opening.
2.
Paste the tape on the back of the camera like I circle out. Just on the square.
It is not means there's no anti-dust washer, but it is not tie enough to make it seal, paste tapes on the back of camera just to push the camera module more close to the glass to make sure that washer works.
On the other hand why I don't recommend using foam rubber tape, some may ask this should works better than double-side tape.
1. Temperature near here is very high, you can see the CPU's temp. mostly high at 70 Celsius, this may melt our tape.
2. We can easily control the thickness.
Sorry for my bad English. I hope you understand, if you have any question, I'm glad to help. :highfive:
Ok thank you! I will give it a try soon
So, now, do you get any new dust after this procedure? And if you do the test with the paper from the left (to see if it is well fitted), is it ok now??
Thanks for this!
I'm going to give it a go soon. I've been having some earpiece issues so I'll have a look at the connections while I'm at it. Is the earpiece speaker relatively easily accessible?
Dust started accumulating in my front camera. It has affected the camera quality. I can't understand the tutorial well. Can anybody make a video tutorial of this?
dh33r4j said:
Dust started accumulating in my front camera. It has affected the camera quality. I can't understand the tutorial well. Can anybody make a video tutorial of this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, video would be great
Thank you for the tutorial, having the same problem.
Just in case I didn't undestand well: we are using tape just to make pressure on the camera so the dust can't get there, right?
Thank you!!
Thanks a lot ,just did everything and worked perfectly of course,now I can take selfies again thanks for the tutorial!!!So easy,guys dont be afraid ,at least nothing happened to me .
Thanks for this. I didn't "pull" both sides apart after reaching the headphone socket, but i gently pushed one side away from the other with one hand, and continued on the other side of the headphone socket with a fingernail, and like that it popped open completely. Cleaned it with a cotton swab (making a rotating motion between my fingers as i "polished" the glass.
It was actually a lot less scary than i imagined. I even managed to put the tiny stickers back on the screws
I broke the mid frame do you guys know where to get sparepart?
cpeterjohansson said:
I broke the mid frame do you guys know where to get sparepart?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it useless now? Did some of the electronics get damaged, or just the plastic? If just the plastic, can't you use special glue?
I just checked Aliexpress, but i don't see the part you need. On the other hand, the phone is very cheap now (€120) and maybe you can find a second hand phone or a bricked phone for cheap?
ozfunghi said:
Is it useless now? Did some of the electronics get damaged, or just the plastic? If just the plastic, can't you use special glue?
I just checked Aliexpress, but i don't see the part you need. On the other hand, the phone is very cheap now (€120) and maybe you can find a second hand phone or a bricked phone for cheap?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I fixed with glue but there was black sticker with some metal thats not there anymore. Dont know what it is thou, maby some heat stuff?
Great work friend..IT was fairly easy than what I thought. Cleaned the front camera as you mentioned in the steps. I used 2 pieces of Double sided tape to fit the camera module. Many thanks for bringing this brilliant tutorial. I am very happy to get my clean camera back on my 8 months old RMN2.......Cheers!!
Can I suggest this tutorial video to disassemble RN2? I found it very useful to rid off dust on front camera, and then, as mentioned here, I put a piece of isolating tape to protect the camera module.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3C4hs-XPdQ
Very great
Thanks for helping clearing dust at front camera
Related
So not that long after getting a SGS2 at launch I managed to get the camera lens scratched. Pictures became fuzzy and useless. I guess some dirt got caught between my desk and the lens and upon nudging my phone the scratch appeared. I have since received follow up scratches further compounding the issue.
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So ladies and gentlemen, as I could not find much help on the subject, I present a quick guide to fixing said problem.
Polish - didn't work. I then discovered that the camera is covered by a protective screen which is integrated with the case. So... flea-bay, a Hong Kong distributor of replacement Samsung Galaxy S2 Housings and ten quid later I am presented with a new case.
1. Clear some space and give it a wipe down, don't want any more scratches eh?
2. Prepare your new back plate by cutting up a screen-protector and putting it over the camera lens. I'm going to redo mine at some point, but it will do for now:
3. Turn off and remove the usual gubbins from your phone (battery, sim, sd)
4. Using a precision cross-head screwdriver, unscrew the five screws on the rear of the phone. Use a small magnet to lift them from their resting position and put them somewhere safe (preferably in a layout you remember for their return trip).
5. The tricky bit is always separating the case. Do not be tempted to ram a screw driver down the side and twist, this will just mess up the case. I just used my finger nails and worked it free.
The top is the least resistive and easiest to get your nail in. Work the top loose and then work down each side a bit at a time. You can use your new case as a guide for where the clips are. Be careful not to snap the clips at the bottom of the phone. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't break anything, and if I can do it, anybody can.
6. You'll notice a couple of things different - strangely, I had an extra electrical connector at the top of my phone, no adverse effects yet.
The speaker system (and probably some other stuff) is embedded in the lower part of the phone.
A precision flat-head screwdriver gently levered on the left will unclip the left side. For the right side pop your screwdriver in from the other side where the battery cover clips into. The speaker part should just pop out.
Mine came out sans-grille. This isn't glued onto the case, so should just lift off, place back onto the speaker component before inserting into your new device.
7. Remove the protective sticker from the inside of the lens screen.
8. Pop the new back onto your phone, starting at the bottom and working your way up the sides evenly.
11. Replace screws, don't over tighten as you may break the plastic threads. Screw lightly anti-clockwise first and you'll feel the thread line up, this reduces the chances of you getting your thread crossed and wrecking it.
10. Remove the button support stickers and other protective coverings
11. Reinstall your gubbins and power up!
12. Snap away
Hope this helps.
Dash
A great guide, maybe I'll use it one day. The only thing i find strange is that i even have a slightly bigger scratch along the lens protection, yet my pictures still look good...
If you look closely at the first image you'll see faint scratches over the centre of the lens. The big one on the edge I don't think has an impact. It took me ages of peering in bright sunlight to spot them.
Dashers said:
If you look closely at the first image you'll see faint scratches over the centre of the lens. The big one on the edge I don't think has an impact. It took me ages of peering in bright sunlight to spot them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to bump this. This thread is interesting as, upon the first day I got this phone I realized that the place the camera is in seems to be an easy target for scratches. I mean, the camera and flash glasses are ridiculously exposed and when you put the phone on any surface it is actually laying directly over them. So, I was wondering, is there any way to protect the camera? I guess a screen protector would ruin picture quality, right?
i wld agree that yes, even with just resting the phone on table with time YOU WILL get some minor scratches.
Dident compromize my camera quality (yet) but i was affraid in time it will.
So i did what OP did-with screen protector i had spare.
I was not in a need to replace anything so i just cut small cube-shape of protector (thin,dare i say cheap one will work best, not some fancy,thick or reflective protector)
and then i just sticked it well outside the camera lens and put case back on. You cannot see it tbh and no picture quality decrease
So I cut square protective folie and put it on the camera glass... but what about glue which comes with protector folie? There are un-glue protectors but I am not sure the will snap to such small area at all....
Really pictures quality didn't decrease?
not at all.
although,my protector was sticky by itself i quess i wld suggest you do the same
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda app-developers app
Im saving this thread for when I scratch mine!
I am going forward to order new housing.
I will follow this guide then !
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
great tutorial it should be sticky !!
I just got mine today and will do this swap later today! Checked the case out looks good, looked at the camera lens area and found scratches! Bugged me out that! Turns out there is a plastic covering over it
I got a black s2 which I've polished the chrome bezel off, to make it black and scrubbed the whole back casing to give it that matte finish, I ordered for a white one now to give it that contrasting 'Oreo cookie' look :silly:
Will post pics when done, wish me luck and pray I don't break anything!
UPDATE:
Well I managed to sucessfully do the swap and I must say this device looks killer this way! I am in love with it! The grip seems to have suffered a bit and t (Glossy vs textured) there were some difference between the original and the one I got (a cheap one but fits perfect with good finish) but nothing seems any different function wise.
Sorry for the horrible quality pics as I only had my Nexus 7 with me (Clicking pics with the ffc is a pain) I'll try to get high res images if anyone wants to see...
Good.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
mzone1510 said:
I just got mine today and will do this swap later today! Checked the case out looks good, looked at the camera lens area and found scratches! Bugged me out that! Turns out there is a plastic covering over it
I got a black s2 which I've polished the chrome bezel off, to make it black and scrubbed the whole back casing to give it that matte finish, I ordered for a white one now to give it that contrasting 'Oreo cookie' look :silly:
Will post pics when done, wish me luck and pray I don't break anything!
UPDATE:
Well I managed to sucessfully do the swap and I must say this device looks killer this way! I am in love with it! The grip seems to have suffered a bit and t (Glossy vs textured) there were some difference between the original and the one I got (a cheap one but fits perfect with good finish) but nothing seems any different function wise.
Sorry for the horrible quality pics as I only had my Nexus 7 with me (Clicking pics with the ffc is a pain) I'll try to get high res images if anyone wants to see...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looks very cool! nice ideea man.
Thanks it's really useful
Very interesting.
Got a lot of dust inside the lens ..
Nice post
Great Work helped me very much::: (-:
Hi all! I got scratches all over that protective glass so pictures are unusable...
I want to purchase the part to replace it but i'm not too sure what to get from ebay..I found http://m.ebay.com/itm/141303100240?nav=SEARCH this,but is this what I really need or do I need something else?
Please,if this is not the correct part,can someone link me the correct one?
Thanks in advance!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA Free mobile app
Dashers said:
A precision flat-head screwdriver gently levered on the left will unclip the left side. For the right side pop your screwdriver in from the other side where the battery cover clips into. The speaker part should just pop out.
Mine came out sans-grille. This isn't glued onto the case, so should just lift off, place back onto the speaker component before inserting into your new device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I dunno about 2011.. But by 2017 the little rubber band around the speaker was basically fused with that placed on the plastic frame.
In the end anyway, it was just about leveraging a bit more with the screwdriver on the bottom left corner of the thing.
Funnily, I discovered just afterwards that if camera is everything you care about there are alternatives.
This screen repair guide will allow you to safely and quickly repair damaged touch screen digitizer, LCD (AMOLED), and other internal parts of your Samsung Epic 4G. Disassemble your Epic 4G and get your Samsung smartphone working like new again!
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung Epic 4G part(s):
Samsung Epic 4G LCD & Touch Screen Glass Digitizer Assembly
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Samsung Epic 4G Take Apart Guide:
Remove the back battery cover by pressing in the button at the bottom of the phone, which will then loosen the cover. Then, you can remove the battery.
Now remove the back housing by removing six (6) screws that are holding it in place. There is one located at each corner and one on the center of each side.
Using the safe open pry tool, carefully insert the open pry tool in the crack between the back housing and the front housing of the phone. Start at the bottom, and gently loosen, working your way all the way around the phone. Then remove the back housing by pulling it gently away from the front part of the phone.
Next, use the open pry tool to unlock the keyboard and antenna clips. These are located at the left side of the motherboard, and appear as flat pieces of metal. Using the open pry tool, carefully insert it beneath them and press upward, to bend them into a straight up position instead of flat with the board as they currently are.
Figure 1
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Then you will disconnect the antenna wire, which appears as a small white wire on the right side of the battery location (shown in figure 1). Using nippers, gently pull up on the top and bottom parts of this wire to disconnect it from the phone. Do not fully remove it, simply disconnect it and leave it as it is.
Remove the loud speaker from the bottom of the phone by removing one small screw on the bottom left that holds the loud speaker in place.
At this point, everything should be disconnected so that you can gently remove the entire motherboard from the phone’s housing.
Remove the keyboard frame by removing four screws from the center of the phone. Two of these are located in the black plastic beneath where the motherboard was located. Then, removing the sticker beneath the battery housing (as shown in figure 2) with the safe open pry tool to reveal two more screws that need to be removed. Then, gently pull up on the keyboard frame and it should come off without difficulty.
Figure 2
Now you will remove the C side housing by removing four screws located in a row, beneath the flex cable that is still hanging in place. Then you can remove the C side housing, but be careful not to damage the flex cable as it maneuvers through the hole.
Remove the slide rail by removing four screws, one at each corner. Two of these screws have rubber round covers that will need to be removed with nippers and placed aside. Use the open safe pry tool to pry apart at the top and bottom of the phone. Then move to the sides, where there are six (6) total clips holding the slide rail in place-3 on each side. Using the open pry tool, careful pry apart the sides, being careful not to damage the flex cable. Try to have all sides pried apart before pulling off the slide rail.
Now remove the slide rail flex cable by using nippers to remove the small blue pieces of tape, as shown in figure 3.
Figure 3
The odd-shaped black cable beneath the tape is the slide rail flex cable. By removing the front camera flex cable gently (a beige small cable located behind the camera lens) with nippers, you will be able to pry up the last end of the slide rail flex cable, and gently remove it.
Now you're Samsung Epic 4G will be completely taken apart allowing you to install any replacement parts you have purchased. Keep all parts together in the order you took them apart, and simply reverse the order to put the phone back together.
This should be stickied lol, very good guide, I just hope I never have to use it .
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
+1 Sticky request
Sent from my MIUI V4 Epic 4G via Tapatalk 2 beta 4
Thanks guys!
Glad you found it useful!
Nice guide! Ive done multiple screen replacements on the Epic and other phones and will say that this is a good start. As i recall... dont you have a youtube video explaining this??
EDIT: hmmm i couldnt find it so i guess not lol sorry!
travmofosho said:
Nice guide! Ive done multiple screen replacements on the Epic and other phones and will say that this is a good start. As i recall... dont you have a youtube video explaining this??
EDIT: hmmm i couldnt find it so i guess not lol sorry!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you liked it!
We didn't do a video for the Epic however we did do a video for a couple of other Samsung phones which were very similar models and process for the screen replacement.
A few months ago the local Sprint store replaced the screen on my phone. Now the screen is loose on one side and doesn't quite sit square. Not sure if something loosened up or is bent or what, but this guide will be useful as I take the phone apart and try to tighten up the slider.
Thanks.
Nice. minor point...
repairsuniverse said:
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Trox Screwdriver
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is spelled Torx.
LargePrime said:
Nice. minor point...It is spelled Torx.
[/LIST]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Typo fixed.
I've taken apart several Epics, not using this guide although I wish I would have lol, so I know that there are some very detailed steps involved. Thank you very much for creating this thread and taking the time to write up a how-to! I am a strong advocate of doing-it-yourself so this kind of thing makes me glad that there are others who refuse to pay exorbitant amounts of money for repairs that could be done on your own, for much cheaper.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
2 errors in this guide, just trying to help out from a Sprint tech standpoint.
A T5 screwdriver is not needed. All the screws in the SPHD700 are Phillips.
Removing the speaker is unnecessary. Sure if you need to replace the speaker, but removing the plate that houses the keyboard components does not require the speaker to be removed. It's best practice not to unless necessary, simply because the speaker has a cable component underneath that snaps into a corresponding cable on the keyboard; failure to ensure it sits properly will of course prevent your speaker and vibrator from working.
Heretofore, removing the bottom end of the white antenna wire from the speaker is also unnecessary.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
Just wondering - where is everyone ordering replacement parts from?
Perhaps when this info is answered it could be added to the OP so that all the info is in one nice easy to find area
altimuh said:
Just wondering - where is everyone ordering replacement parts from?
Perhaps when this info is answered it could be added to the OP so that all the info is in one nice easy to find area
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung Epic replacement parts can be found here - Samsung Epic Replacement Parts
Hope this helps.
Great guide
Thanks for such a great write up.
blamethenetwork said:
Thanks for such a great write up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem.
Glad you found it useful.
When my phone is in landscape mode the swype doesnt work when im swyping say the word android where i have to slide left and right. I dont know what the internals of the epic4g is made up of but im guessing theres a digitizer or sensor part under the outer screen. Could it be the problem or is there some app for calibrating the touch screen where im having trouble getting the word to complete through long left and right swype movements? I used the dev tools to test the areas i touch and it appears fine but not very accurate but doesnt seem like im having bad areas on the touchscreen.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA
Does anyone have any experience replacing just the glass without replacing the LCD and digitizer? I cracked my glass and eBay has the part for very cheap, but sprint wants $100 deductaple to replace the phone. I'm wondering if the LCD and glass are bonded together.
zman0900 said:
Does anyone have any experience replacing just the glass without replacing the LCD and digitizer? I cracked my glass and eBay has the part for very cheap, but sprint wants $100 deductaple to replace the phone. I'm wondering if the LCD and glass are bonded together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I've heard is the digitizer is so close to the screen or glass its really impossible to do it with out error... you'd have to get the whole deal and replace it.
Also might want to drop TEP as it requires a deductible and get a third party protection plan...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
ÜBER™ said:
From what I've heard is the digitizer is so close to the screen or glass its really impossible to do it with out error... you'd have to get the whole deal and replace it.
Also might want to drop TEP as it requires a deductible and get a third party protection plan...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Went ahead and payed the $100. The cable that connects the two haves of the slider was sticking out of the case, so I took the phone apart to try plugging it back in hoping I could at least make the cracked screen light up. Turns out the cable was broken too, so I figured it would be cheaper to just get the replacement. Thanks for that 3rd party plan idea. I'll have to look into that for my next phone.
cm9eq
zman0900 said:
Went ahead and payed the $100. The cable that connects the two haves of the slider was sticking out of the case, so I took the phone apart to try plugging it back in hoping I could at least make the cracked screen light up. Turns out the cable was broken too, so I figured it would be cheaper to just get the replacement. Thanks for that 3rd party plan idea. I'll have to look into that for my next phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm buying my gnex from wirefly and they offer a premium protection plan for 7.50 a month and it covers everything... theft, damage, etc. With NO deductible. not bad...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
Well I got bored and since I couldn't find any pictures of the insides of the TF300 I took the cover off, it was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. The volume button and power button are attached so you don't have to worry about them falling out of the cover.
There are just a bunch of clips holding the back on and all I did was slip my spudger in between the seam around the screen and it started popping apart.
I did start on the bottom and the opposite side of the volume rocker and then just worked my way around it.
Only took about 5 minutes being careful the first time around. Would only take a minute or two now since I know how easy this thing comes apart.
If you do this be sure to remove your micro SD card first though.
I didn't go any further than just remove the back, really didn't feel like doing a full tear down and didn't want to remove the warranty sticker either.
Putting it back on only takes a minute.
The one thing that did surprise me was the amount of finger print smudges there were on the copper strips and the metallic coating on the underside of the cover, they definitely weren't mine , so much for using gloves.
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Here's the direct links to the full sized images.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7640/005esp.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6397/006kt.jpg
nice
i always wonders how it look like o the inside. by any chance are you planing to crawl to the cpu and gpu?
Unless I get really bored I probably won't tear it down any further.
The CPU/GPU look to be under the large copper shield and it's stuck down pretty good. I'd definitely would bend it up really bad trying to get it off as it's very thin, and on the lower edge of it there's a warranty sticker so I wouldn't want to damage it.
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
turdbogls said:
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can find a white or red one on eBay then yes it is. There are no components on the cover itself except for a heat dispersion pad. That's it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Just a thought... Could the bootloader encryption be on a chip?
obsidianchao said:
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper foil is probably used as dual purpose, heat spreader and EMI shielding. The piece over the CPU/GPU does have a black plastic backing insulating it from other components. But I couldn't tell if the copper foil was in direct contact with the CPU/GPU or not with the way it was stuck down, and I didn't want to pry up on it as it would bend out of shape very easily.
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
DuneBug said:
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a couple pictures posted in OP, I updated it to include links to the full sized images.
Oh oops, Opera mobile wasn't showing the pics till u added the links..
Very interesting, everything is clean and tight hehe.
Thanks
Yes a back replacement for those who like to mod would be cool!
Nice. If they were ever to sell the red one I would look for the red back. Lol. That's the one I really wanted but couldn't resist.
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using XDA
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
psjw12 said:
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
chili_red said:
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look for a port to put a 3g receiver
poor quality control on these items
archondragon said:
hey can you post a youtube video man on how to disassemble it? i am seriously having a touch screen issue, i'm afraid to take it apart unless i see a video on how to do it, but so far i found none. hopefullly maybe you can show.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
LOL
You got some nerve!
I’m very afraid of taking apart my electronics. (Sloppy hands)
You know who assembles for ASUS? Because I’ve seen pictures of FOXXCON workers wearing gloves, or fingertip cover if not whole gloves.
Ripped mine apart today.
Buster99 said:
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dropped mine three days after I got it - doesn't take a hit very well.. Still powers up and operates but glass/touchscreen is shattered and no touch response, so it's basically a doorstop..
Ripped into it after seeing this post - no video of the process though, sorry.. Getting the back off is indeed easy.. Video connector is right there and easy to get to in order to re-seat if you suspect a bad connection.. It is the metallic micro-connector that actually has wires and is taped down with a clear tape.
Also, touchscreen plastic ribbon connector is also easy to get to in order to re-seat.. It is the wide plastic strip type ribbon (with internal wiring strips) that ends up splitting into two connections with little foam rubber pieces on top of them to keep them from backing out.. When you pull the connections out, as I did today, it's good to know how they work. The two touchscreen headers (connectors) on the pcb are a hinged/clamping type. The back of the connector (away from the ribbon) hinges up and the ribbon is free.
Anyway, removing a shattered touchscreen is a bear - lots and lots of sticky adhesive. Double-sided sticky tape (half inch wide) holding the touchscreen to the flimsy plastic bezel all the way around, and double-sided sticky foam (2mm wide) holding the touchscreen to the TFT display assembly all the way around.
I need confirmation, please, from anyone; is this touchscreen for the TF300 the same one used for the TF201. I would assume it is, but do not want to order one based on an assumption.. I have the whole unit reassembled and working w/o touchscreen. Installing it will be miles easier than taking it out for sure..
Apologies. My English is not a professional!
Hi.
I token apart many mobile and tab items. This one was so easy to do.
If you crack or broke something when you take apart your Nook HD+ then all responsibility goes only for you. My guide is only for knowledge base.
You lose WARRANTY when you take apart your device!
Ok, lets start.
Tools you need:
1. Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
2. Plastic Pry Tool
3. Torx T5 Screwdriver
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1. Take Plastic Triangle Pry Tool and place it to screen on bottom side where screen bezel corner is cut off. VERY GENTLY push the Plastic Triangle Pry Tool behind bezel and screen.
Be aware! Plastic Bezel is very soft and you can broke bezel legs. About which legs I talk, you see on 7 step pictures.
2. Don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Move around the entire inside of the plastic bezel. You hear how double sided tape be open.
3. Again don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Push it VERY GENTLY more inside, but be aware you can broke little bezel plastic leg.
4. You see that bezel corner goes up at body. Now push Plastic Pry Tool at another side behind bezel and body and remove Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
5. Place Plastic Triangle Pry Tool at outside behind body and bezel and move around the entire outside of the plastic bezel. You again hear how double sided tape be open.
6. Now gently remove bezel at body. You need gently help with Plastic Pry Tool.
7. Hard part is done and this is how looks bezel and legs. These legs are around bezel.
8. Take Torx T5 Screwdriver
9. Unscrew the all screws (marked green on picture) except red marked screws on picture. If you unscrew these screws you can broke one copper foil which one makes ground/background to WiFi antenna.
All screws are same size!
10. Now take Nook to left hand power button side to down and with Plastic Triangle Pry Tool GENTLY detach backside plastic cover a little bit at body. Be aware battery is attached to backside plastic cover and you can broke battery connector on motherboard if you use here power on detach.
11. With right hand fingers GENTLY move battery power cable at mainboard. Place all pieces GENTLY to table.
12. All done. Now it look like this!
Enjoy!
YouTube video example
http://youtu.be/HpVrds3g-M8
When you place back Plastic bezel, you need replace 3mm Double sided tape around bezel. I used this one 3M Sticker tape Double sided tape Adhesive For housing touch screen LCD 3mm
You are welcome to redistribute it but ask for consent before!
I try monitor this thread and reply.
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
dbh369 said:
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This baby opened second time for making this guide. Yes i can make reverse guide too but i dont see reason. Because there are nothing to do. Just put all back. And YES, it works.
One thing have which one i write on monday. You need 3mm double sided clear or black 3M tape to replace tape on bezel.
Nuor60 said:
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there even ram modules for tablets being sold? With which form factor are we dealing here?
If it can be upgraded though it would be great news, 1 gig is rather constraining.
Added video and link for example 3M double sided 3mm tape.
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your point?
datas0ft said:
What is your point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Point is, that I love my HD+, but I miss standard micro USB connection and wireless charging.
I'm already running late on a few projects of mine but after seeing the pics I cant get rid of the thoughts of hardware hacking my HD+ to integrate the above features.
BTW. I'm really grateful for the teardown pictures and description.
OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for it, then quit your day job! Lol.
Better yet, build a converter adaptor, micro usb female to Nook 30-pin male, then we could use the HD+ for USB hosting.
thanks!
is screen replacement possible?
I am looking at your pictures to determine if it is possible to replace a cracked screen. I dropped mine on the concrete sidewalk and the glass cracked.:crying: The functionality is fine, the lcd was not damaged, just the "glass" (or plastic more likely). I would like to replace it with a new one, but if it is really impossible to do without breaking parts such as the foil ground wire, etc, then I guess I will put up with a cracked screen. Do you think it is really feasible to replace the lcd and digitizer? Thanks.
could i charge the battery directly?
loverppc said:
could i charge the battery directly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Nook HD+ is not charging anymore since one week. Battery goes low now, only green light no orange, tried 2 original power adapter, is it possible to recharche batterie without the internal charging electronics with an external one or is it possible to connect 5v power adapter directly to nook hd+?
thanks!
retaped down the bezel on my HD Plus
nice guide
Is the N home button accessible through this method, or is that built within the screen making it difficult to access? My N button on a Nook HD+ is not very responsive and has to be pressed hard to get it to work (purchased it on ebay), anyone know if this is fixable? I have a Nook HD as well which was brand new and that one's button is very responsive and works with the slightest of touch.
Ok, so i opened my Nook HD+ up and the micro switch is definitely accessible, but it needs to be replaced as the previous owner seems to have been a bit too harsh with it. Anyone know where i can get an exact replacement? I've replaced car fob key micro switches before, so this shouldn't be an issue.
Here's a photo from the Nook Tablet, the switch is the same in the HD+ (it's about an inch above the USB)
http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BWtQHPQKynJJROds
Does anyone know where I could buy one of the connectors to attach the digitizer's flexi ribbon to the motherboard?
Mine fast shutdown when in use, despite fully charged. And cannot be tured on, unless plugged in. Use while wired id's fine throughout.
is that battery issue?
Any generic battery module to recommend that can fit?
Dimensions of battery pack please?
Just buy a used Nook. They are fairly cheap. Harvest a battery out of one with a broken screen perhaps.
OK - the burning question many people have had has been answered - Can I replace my screen?
The answer is yes, but it is not for the fainthearted.
My poor HTC One came to grief recently hitting a marble floor and while useable came off second best.
Investigation with local phone repairers yielded little. I could only find one company in Melbourne that wanted $295 to fix the screen on a $700 phone.
Looking around online I could only find teardown clips and the ifixit rating of 1 which isn't terribly confidence inspiring.
So this left me with a three options
1. Cut my losses and by a new phone
2. Cough up for a repairer
3. Have a crack at it myself
I started off searching for replacement screens on e-bay and after a bit more searching came across etradesupply.
Not only did they have all the parts they also gave me an idea, if I am changing screen, why not colour? I always liked the black one a bit more but was too impatient and bought the silver one.
So I went for it and ordered the screen and digitizer as an assembly
etradesupply.com/oem-htc-one-lcd-screen-and-digitizer-assembly-with-front-housing.html[/url]
and new rear housing
etradesupply.com/oem-htc-one-rear-housing-black-with-htc-and-beatsaudio-logo.html[/url]
I also ordered a few tools and about 5 days later my parts arrived.
Over this period I watched the youtube tear down clips and also reviewed the iFixit guide and wondered what had I got myself in for.
So I decided tonight was the night to go for it.
I started by trying to pry off the bottom speaker with the intent of working around the old housing. My delusions of grandeur of an elegant fix disappeared quickly as the zero gap was an impenetrable fortress that could not be penetrated until I hacked the base off breaking the bottom off where the polycarbonate seam is.
After a good half an hour of hacking and prying my case was off showing off the sheer complexity of the interior.
THIS WAS NOT LOOKING PROMISING
So as I looked over this and thought ok, lets start unscrewing and this is where I hit my first obstacle. My precision screwdrivers were not precise enough so a quick trip to the local hardware store and I was in business.
I decided to try and take the path of least tear down. Looking at the clips I felt I could achieve the outcome without a complete tear down. My advice to anyone else thinking the same is DO NOT DO THIS.
While I got there in the end, the antennas are fragile and any tension will snap them as I discovered. Not a big deal as a few seconds with the soldering iron fixed it, but it is easier to simply detach and re-attach them.
So after taking off various bits of tape, screws, ribbons and prying the battery out of the case which is well glued with adhesive I was almost there. If you watch the tear down clip, be prepared to rip every last item out and disassemble as per the clip. All the way down to the vibration motor.
It was about here I was ready to abandon all hope, I had disassembled and had thought I had reassembled and when I did a test boot, nothing....
I pushed, prodded, poked and tested all the connections and still nothing.
I disassembled and ensured every tricky little ribbon was connected and like a patient in a medical drama when it has had two shocks with the defibrillator, when I tried again it kicked in to life.
Screen works - Yes
Wi-Fi works - Yes
Bluetooth works - Yes
Audio works - Yes
3G/HSDPA works - Yes
Test call works - Yes
All of a sudden when I thought I was off to buy a new handset my HTC One had kicked back in to life. My transplant had patient was alive but still critical.
So I started the process of taping up the ribbons, screwing in all the screws and getting it in shape for the final part - attaching the rear housing.
I lowered the rear housing on to the exposed wires like Darth Vader's mask lowering on to Anakin at the end of Revenge of The Sith and just as I thought victory was mine there was a moment of dread.... it didn't fit
I delicately pried off the housing and took a look, the convoluted assembly around the charger socket was the culprit. After some re-evaluation and re-organisation of the plate, the rear housing was secured and the death star, oops no the HTC One M7 in black was fully operational
So about 3 hours after I started my task is complete, black is a much nicer look, however, the zero gap isn't as zero as it was before but will do.
I think if I were to do it again I would do it in under two hours, but the repairer estimates of 3 hours isn't outlandish.
If you cracked your screen and want to replace it, then I would say go for it and buy the assembly and housing as I did.
If you simply want to change colours for no other reason that you want to, I would caution against this. The work is serious and has risks. It is a repair of last resort.
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one minor thing to point out, the Sim Card Tray ships seperate so anyone thinking of a colour transplant will need to add that to the list.
Showed off my repaired One today, my workmates who are all in IT were mighty impressed, thought I had no chance of getting it done after looking at the tear down on iFixit
Dredd73 said:
one minor thing to point out, the Sim Card Tray ships seperate so anyone thinking of a colour transplant will need to add that to the list.
Showed off my repaired One today, my workmates who are all in IT were mighty impressed, thought I had no chance of getting it done after looking at the tear down on iFixit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the writing.
I was hoping to take apart the top and bottom speaker grill so I can close the gap.
How are they put together? Is it as simple as adhesive tape? or screwed?
dsan45 said:
thanks for the writing.
I was hoping to take apart the top and bottom speaker grill so I can close the gap.
How are they put together? Is it as simple as adhesive tape? or screwed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good Question, the answer is a definite no.
With a serious amount of heating the adhesive will yield, however, the top grill is also used as a mounting point for one of the screws. I would also be concerned that the amount of heat needed to break the bond would get to damaging levels for some components such as the speakers which sit underneath.
They SERIOUSLY made this phone as lowest self service as possible. The pics from my old grill's show this.
I would also think you would need something more serious than adhesive tape to bond to the plastic.
View attachment 2159676
dsan45 said:
thanks for the writing.
I was hoping to take apart the top and bottom speaker grill so I can close the gap.
How are they put together? Is it as simple as adhesive tape? or screwed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thinking about your question a bit more, if you are trying to close a gap by taking a component off and reattaching then I think you would be doomed to fail.
Without knowing where the gap is I'll assume it is in one of two spots, either between the rear housing and the grill or the screen and the grill. If this is the case then i'll try to explain what is occurring, a likely cause and why fixing is unlikely to work.
The design of the One M7 is basically a front assembly which is a chassis that the components screw on to. The back of the case is simply a shell that clips in to place.
If the gap is like this:
View attachment 2160617
It is a gap between the chassis and the back of the device. With the chassis being between the rear case and the grill all you would be doing is reattaching the grill to the chassis and not closing the gap and would almost certainly make the gap bigger not smaller as you would be adding more substance between the grill and the chassis/midframe
If the gap is like this:
View attachment 2160618
Then this is more likely to be the screen being pushed up from within the device itself. A likely cause is the battery sitting underneath is out by a mm or less and is pushing the screen up. The battery sits underneath the screen and there is literally no margin whatsoever between the screen, battery, motherboard and midframe so if something is out by a few μm to mm then the path of least resistance is for the screen to push up.
I know this from having completed not just a tear down but also a reassembly how fine the margins are. After my repair there is a very small gap in the screen and bottom grill which I just have to live with. Overall with a new case and a repaired screen I am much better off but it is not quite as good as something from plant. The repair process requires removing tape and disrupting some of the foil and all this increases the margins ever so slightly
I think HTC may have got themselves in to trouble with the marketing of this as Zero gap, it is pretty damn good, but Zero Gap means that a consumer will tolerate nothing less than Zero gap and thus we have an expectation problem. I have a lot of respect for what HTC have done with this device and still think it is a magnificent device but perhaps it is a bit too ambitious and the yields are killing them.
One final comment, a number of people have stated that their "Cracked Screen" was replaced with a new device. I personally believe it is nigh on impossible to remove the screen without some form of damage to the back of the case. The amount of pressure required to separate the front assembly loose would mark it with the amount of adhesive between the two plus the lack of margins mean that the repair is effectively what I did (i.e. a new front and rear assembly with a contents transfer)
Knowing what I know now, if I were to severely scratch or damage the grills I wouldn't entertain replacing them, it will only make the matter worse. I also know I could possibly open mine up and remove the internal pressure that is the likely cause of the gaps but again would risk making it worse for a small aesthetic gain.
I saw this thread on whirlpool as well, but the images here really give us a better look at the work you did. I also looked over the iFixit tear down and I have to say what an amazing job! You really did well, definitely not for the faint hearted!
Does this now mean that we can send you our broken One's for a repair job?!?
bwhinnen said:
I saw this thread on whirlpool as well, but the images here really give us a better look at the work you did. I also looked over the iFixit tear down and I have to say what an amazing job! You really did well, definitely not for the faint hearted!
Does this now mean that we can send you our broken One's for a repair job?!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hehe not quitting my day job just yet.
Best not to break it in the first place. I've got the HTC cover on order!
Dredd73 said:
Thinking about your question a bit more, if you are trying to close a gap by taking a component off and reattaching then I think you would be doomed to fail.
Without knowing where the gap is I'll assume it is in one of two spots, either between the rear housing and the grill or the screen and the grill. If this is the case then i'll try to explain what is occurring, a likely cause and why fixing is unlikely to work.
The design of the One M7 is basically a front assembly which is a chassis that the components screw on to. The back of the case is simply a shell that clips in to place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow thank you for your thoughtful answer.
It sounds like you are in this business!
My gap is the first example you posted where their is a slight opening at the top. It seems like more I try to do 'anything' it is
most likely that I will ruin this device.
I tried fitting in my double sided tape inside the gap but really.. it woudnt get in there. So I guess it is best where it is now.
dsan45 said:
wow thank you for your thoughtful answer.
It sounds like you are in this business!
My gap is the first example you posted where their is a slight opening at the top. It seems like more I try to do 'anything' it is
most likely that I will ruin this device.
I tried fitting in my double sided tape inside the gap but really.. it woudnt get in there. So I guess it is best where it is now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem, I hope it saved you the grief of making something minor worse. Even though my repair job has a slight gap it isn't noticeable in black compared to Silver/white which is unforgiving.
While I am no phone repairer, I've always liked taking things apart and trying to fix them. The HTC One is possibly one of the fiddliest things I have taken on. I guess I didn't take it on by choice, only by bad luck and a hard floor!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43334075
HTC One Teardown (Really not that bad)
Don't know if you have read this earlier thread from 7 July on HTC one dismantle process
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
oh wow, just in time... i have a cracked HTC One and my parts from e trade supply came only today.. ETS parts look very promising and came neatly packed .. very neatly and properly packed.. gonna do my playing with the phone tomorrow, wish me luck
@op, thanks for your post.. have not read it fully .. was so excited to see a DIY fix thread
---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 AM ----------
ok so i did do the same order as you, the front panel and the back case .. choose silver and have silver.. thanks for your writing.. its exciting, hopefully i will share my experience here soon.
pradeepvizz said:
oh wow, just in time... i have a cracked HTC One and my parts from e trade supply came only today.. ETS parts look very promising and came neatly packed .. very neatly and properly packed.. gonna do my playing with the phone tomorrow, wish me luck
@op, thanks for your post.. have not read it fully .. was so excited to see a DIY fix thread
---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 AM ----------
ok so i did do the same order as you, the front panel and the back case .. choose silver and have silver.. thanks for your writing.. its exciting, hopefully i will share my experience here soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best of luck. The parts from etrade supply seem to be OEM, the items marked as b-stock are seconds by the looks of things (probably screens with dead pixels etc)
If you go through it methodically you should be OK, make sure you have all the right tools such as screwdrivers, prying tools etc.
I would also perhaps recommend trimming the plastic cover on the battery, this seems to unstick and I think cause some bulging my .5mm when you reassemble. It is a bit like trying to re-wrap a present after you have unwrapped the paper, you can do it but it is never a perfect fit.
Thanks for the refit instructions, this is probably the first tread which talks about fitting it back. I got the A Stock items, did not choose the b stock. I went through the video and blog of ets and ordered every tool that they used in it
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
---------- Post added at 01:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
And my phone already had the bulging of the screen little in the front.. I mean the top speaker and screen were not flay, Which probably was also a reason why it broke easy.
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
pradeepvizz said:
Thanks for the refit instructions, this is probably the first tread which talks about fitting it back. I got the A Stock items, did not choose the b stock. I went through the video and blog of ets and ordered every tool that they used in it
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
---------- Post added at 01:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
And my phone already had the bulging of the screen little in the front.. I mean the top speaker and screen were not flay, Which probably was also a reason why it broke easy.
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, one last thing, make sure you have some good tweezers that are flat and not sharp. There is a ribbon which I think can only go in with tweezers and requires a bit of pressure to go in. You will also need them to assist re-attaching your antennas.
i have not opened my tweezers from ETS yet! thanks for the note.
Dredd73 said:
Good Question, the answer is a definite no.
With a serious amount of heating the adhesive will yield, however, the top grill is also used as a mounting point for one of the screws. I would also be concerned that the amount of heat needed to break the bond would get to damaging levels for some components such as the speakers which sit underneath.
They SERIOUSLY made this phone as lowest self service as possible. The pics from my old grill's show this.
I would also think you would need something more serious than adhesive tape to bond to the plastic.
View attachment 2159676
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But could you just place a little glue at the gap and squeeze it shut, instead of taking out the whole grill and reapplying?
fluxthesky said:
But could you just place a little glue at the gap and squeeze it shut, instead of taking out the whole grill and reapplying?
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Perhaps these pictures may help, the grills do not attach to the rear housing, they attach to the midplane of the phone so the only way to close the gap is between the rear shell/housing and the midplane.
Trying to glue the midplane tighter to the rear housing is not something that I think would work nor would I recommend it. The types of glue required would potentially damage components that sit close to the edges and would cause complications if there was a screen crack later down the track. There is also potential if the wrong glue is used to damage the plastic housing. As you can see, if you were trying to close the top gap with glue there is the camera, speaker, light sensor and power switch which are all very close to the edges and would not benefit from a strong solvent based glue
View attachment 2170276
As commented in a previous post, the upward pressure is going to be where components meet the rear of the case, I've tried to highlight this in this picture. Any attempt to close the gap will be due to trying to flex/bend the edge to glue/adhere to the edge. A contact adhesive or tape will simply not win in the long term and a solvent based glue might stand a chance but the amount required risks gluing components. I'd rather have a small gap than damage something like the power switch.
If someone wants to give it a try, feel free to post results, but having gone through a re-build I wouldn't do it if I were faced with a small gap knowing what I know.
paul_59 said:
forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43334075
HTC One Teardown (Really not that bad)
Don't know if you have read this earlier thread from 7 July on HTC one dismantle process
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Yes, I don't think there was a post on any forum anywhere on the subject that I hadn't read prior to my dismantle.
I guess the big difference between my post and this post is my post is about creating a repaired working phone as opposed to a tear down which is treated as a one way ticket.
I did entertain heavy duty heating, however, since I as not saving the case I opted to spare my components any unnecessary heat stress. Also most tear down's seem to put a lot of flex on the mainboard which is also something I wanted to avoid.
To my knowledge I don't think I have seen anyone else post an actual repair, just a tear down.
ok so my phone is now in a busted state!
i opened the front & the back fine, took quite an effort to pry up and separate the front and the back case, i took it out without any breakage. I started with the bottom speaker grill, heated & took of the bottom speaker grill and then pry'ed in the gap between back case & the front panel. The hard part was the move the separator from the bottom to the sides, in other words, starting to separate the side was hard, once a gap is created on the sides it was pretty easy to take the phone out by moving the separator around the phone.
one mistake i did was to not take out the sim card & sim card tray before starting to separate.
I then started with removing the components from the motherboard - i wanted to do a front panel replacement (essential screen replacement).
when removing the LCD connector cable, i broke the lock/connector which is on the motherboard. i was trying to release the lock to take out the connector and pressed hard on the connector itself rather than the lock - attaching a pic to make it clear - i broke the black part marked red, the lock was supposed to be removed by pulling up the part marked green.
I have assembled back everything with the new front housing and phone is semi partially working - i have almost removed and reconnected everything 4 times.
The vibrator kicks in action when i put the phone on but nothing on the display(broken display port to blame). One time i heard the phone boot (speaker sound) and that was when i tried to put it back in my old front panel to check.
Other than that the phone is identified as HTC Android USB phone in the device manager when connected but does not show on my computer as a portable device. It charges. heats when i try to put it on.
So to conclude the phone is dead now, don't have much of ideas to get it back working - but have a hope that it would if i replace quite some parts
Any advise is welcome!
pradeepvizz said:
ok so my phone is now in a busted state!
i opened the front & the back fine, took quite an effort to pry up and separate the front and the back case, i took it out without any breakage. I started with the bottom speaker grill, heated & took of the bottom speaker grill and then pry'ed in the gap between back case & the front panel. The hard part was the move the separator from the bottom to the sides, in other words, starting to separate the side was hard, once a gap is created on the sides it was pretty easy to take the phone out by moving the separator around the phone.
one mistake i did was to not take out the sim card & sim card tray before starting to separate.
I then started with removing the components from the motherboard - i wanted to do a front panel replacement (essential screen replacement).
when removing the LCD connector cable, i broke the lock/connector which is on the motherboard. i was trying to release the lock to take out the connector and pressed hard on the connector itself rather than the lock - attaching a pic to make it clear - i broke the black part marked red, the lock was supposed to be removed by pulling up the part marked green.
I have assembled back everything with the new front housing and phone is semi partially working - i have almost removed and reconnected everything 4 times.
The vibrator kicks in action when i put the phone on but nothing on the display(broken display port to blame). One time i heard the phone boot (speaker sound) and that was when i tried to put it back in my old front panel to check.
Other than that the phone is identified as HTC Android USB phone in the device manager when connected but does not show on my computer as a portable device. It charges. heats when i try to put it on.
So to conclude the phone is dead now, don't have much of ideas to get it back working - but have a hope that it would if i replace quite some parts
Any advise is welcome!
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Bad Luck, to get so close.....
The ribbon you are referring to simply pulls out and doesn't have the same clasp, this is the one that is also the hardest to re-insert. Have you got a good picture of what your the socket now? you should be able to push it in unless it is completely smashed.
When I was doing mine I just pulled the ribbons out without realising some are meant to lift open. To me if you are getting to boot and device recognition you got most of the way there.
The mainboard is about the only item that is non replaceable via OEM. I can only assume it is things like IMEI etc that would stop this. My only suggestion is to keep an eye out for someone selling a broken M7 and see if you can swap mainboards.