I have Google Nexus Player now for a day. I have not connected any mouse, just using remote. Downloaded ES File Explorer from Google Play on nexus player. It seems to be OK, except one big problem. With my nexus remote, I can not tell what is highlighted, I see only white background with folders in Blue in right panel, and other menu items on left. When I use the remote to go up and down with arrows or left an right and click OK, I have no idea what is selected. Can someone PLEASE help, I am giving up. How do I use ES File explorer? I did once able to get some folders to open an navigate to find some apk file and install it, but it took for ever.
Some other questions if someone can help, I really appreciate.
Wifi seems to randomly drop, and I have to reenter the password.
I have connected the player to hdmi on denon amp with denon out to tv. I let nexus player run ( there is no way to shut it down, can I?), but turn of the denon, and tv when done. When I turn on the denon and tv, there is no picture, looks like nexus went to sleep. Only way to awake is to take out and plug back the hdmi port. Pushing the button on base of the player did not work.
Is there some way to put nexus remote codes in Acoustic Reseach Universal remote? Any other suggestions to use this player will be really appreciated. I really not want to return it , since kodi works fine on it.
Talking about kodi, is there some way to passthrough DTS-HD Master or TrueHD Audio. I can do that on my linux machine running Ubuntu.
Thanks for help.
The latest versions of ES File Explorer (v4.*) are broken on Android TV for the reasons you mention - also when browsing the file pane constantly loses focus, making it hard to navigate through a folder tree with the remote. To fix:
1. Uninstall ES File Explorer.
2. Download the last properly compatible version, 3.2.5.5 from here: http://www.apkmirror.com/apk/es-glo...s-file-explorer-3-2-5-5-android-apk-download/
3. Sideload it with AirShare/AirLaunch, or first install something like AnExplorer File Manager from the Android TV Play Store (which is quite decent in itself, actually, just with fewer features than ES). Uninstall whichever of these when done.
Make sure to disable automatic updates from the Play Store until they fix ES properly!
Success with ES Explorer plus two more questions.
Thanks ghtop. Your suggestion worked very well. I do see the highlighted areas so I know where I am selecting.
I also learned something by accident. I still get the player go to sleep and no picture when I turn the tv and denon on. I used to unplug and plug back the hdmi cord to get the picture. Since then, I turned of hdmi control in denon with no luck. Then, I accidentally discovered that, once I turn tv on, and in denon, change the input to fm, which turns the radio on, then switch the input to hdmi4 where my nexus player is, the picture comes on. I guess that is equivalently plugging back and forth hdmi cable.
Ok, so I am not returning the player. I still have two questions left.
1) Anyway to get the remote transferred to Acoustic Research IR remote?
2) Anyway to get DTD HD Audio in kodi? I do get DTS passthrough, however DTS-HD Master and TrueHD passthrough do not work, it is shown as PCM.
Related
Hello,
I have imito mx2 with fineless 2.0 rom,
I use es explorer and to stream videos from my computer to my stick that connected to tv.
When i open a movie (that is located on my pc), the video player (vlc, mx ,mobo,dice , i've tried all of them) stop working after approx. 15 minutes with no error, just stop the movie and i have to reload it again.
When i copy the movie to the stick everything is working fine, so its not a problem with the video player.
the wifi connection is strong signal and the the internet should be enough for a movie (download of 10mbps, so it can't be the problem.)
I just thought that maybe the wifi stop for few seconds and return, but because it happens all the time in almost specific time (after 13-15 minutes) its not reasonable.
I'll glad to hear your suggestion how to solve it.
Thanks
h1990h said:
Hello,
I have imito mx2 with fineless 2.0 rom,
I use es explorer and to stream videos from my computer to my stick that connected to tv.
When i open a movie (that is located on my pc), the video player (vlc, mx ,mobo,dice , i've tried all of them) stop working after approx. 15 minutes with no error, just stop the movie and i have to reload it again.
When i copy the movie to the stick everything is working fine, so its not a problem with the video player.
the wifi connection is strong signal and the the internet should be enough for a movie (download of 10mbps, so it can't be the problem.)
I just thought that maybe the wifi stop for few seconds and return, but because it happens all the time in almost specific time (after 13-15 minutes) its not reasonable.
I'll glad to hear your suggestion how to solve it.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried using XBMC? If not, recommend you try that using an advancedsettings.xml which forces buffering.
you might want o check the WMM/QoS settings on your wireless router, enable WMM and set the QoS policy for your specific device.
You could also use Mount Manager or any other similar program and mount your Pc shared folders as local drives. I'm doing that with my mx2 and Mx-Player and works perfectly and immediately, not needing to download to a temp file like Es explorer do.
Nexus Player is a sad/simple/boring device. Its remote is really silly and useless. Anyone who have used an Air mouse type remote (Lg Magic Remote or Samsun's one) knows how comfortable it is to have a pointer on the screen and move the hand to reach the cursor where you need. Google decided to use a simply remove which basically is a left/right/left/left/down/down/down until you reach your option.
I've bought a USB OTG cable and connected my mouse. While the cursor is moving on the screen and it works on some apps, in most it does work. So for instance, on a game I can't click on the buttons... Is there a way to make the mouse clicks on all apps ?
Also, some apps which are forced for portrait orientation, will be displayed lying as the tv is 1920x1080. Any way to force the orientation of apks ?
Thanks.
I've had this problem too. Apparently some developers code in touches and/or mouse clicks, and some only code in the touch command. That is why some games aren't working for you.
You've got two options, either complain to the development team to add mouse clicks (which I'm told should be an easy thing to do) or use the DroidMote app by Zulu.
Thank you @midnightzak for making it clear to me. It seems that even the games from the Google Play for android TV are not working as supposed. For instance I installed Minion Rush (which is officially supported) and after it installed on start, it ask me to enter my age but I can't enter it because when moving around with remove for the Age editbox and clicking ok button does nothing, no keyboard popup. Tried it with controller too, same thing.
Another short question. On Chromecast on my LG smart TV I had Simplink enabled. Not sure if because of this, but when I started to cast a video from my phone, the tv switches from cable input to chromecast input. This does not work for Nexus Player, I need to manually switch input to HDMI port of the player. Is this normal ?
I have a magic motion remote for my LG tv, which is basically an air mouse remote. LG firmware has an option to control other devices connected through HDMI with the remote and when I try to add a new device, I get all sorts of Box sets from different producers. I was wondering if there is a way to make the remote work on nexus player.
The nexus player doesn't officially support HDMI CEC which is the protocol required for the auto switching of inputs to work. It's also what would make your remote work unfortunately.
I have a LG "smart" TV as well and at first the Nexus Player did not appear to support the expected HDMI-CEC functionality (input switching and magic remote passthrough). On LG "smart" TVs, you have to re-enable HDMI-CEC for that port when you switch devices. This is also sometimes a very annoying setting to find if you haven't touched it in a while.
@opticron so you say that you LG TV does work with Nexus player and also you can use the magic remote for it ? Can you tell me some more details on how to enable the HDMI-CEC on the tv for the player HDMI port ?
My other concern: should the cable be of any special type to support CEC ?
Later edit: I have replaced the HDMI cable I had with an newer cheap one. The older one did not work with simplink enabled, while the new one does. I can use the lg remote to navigate around the nexus player. The cursor does not trigger any action (too bad) but up/down/left/right/ok/back works from the magic remote.
Anybody had or having this issue? I am using TVMC, and I have my video library set up with an SMB share to the Nexus. I will start playing a TV episode and it will stop a few minutes in or halfway through and return back to the episode list. I don't think this has happened with a movie (yet).
I have tried messing with Hardware Acceleration vs Software (one actually works better for streaming sources from outside of my network). Tried clearing out the cache, purging packages. None of these have made any improvements. Thinking I may try to install a vanilla version of Kodi, and maybe also try Gotham.
Did a little searching and haven't found any solutions yet.
This is probably #3 in my disappointments with this device so far along with lack of apps, the Netflix bug, SlingTV's frame rate, and the Live Channels app. Starting to wish I opted for the Fire TV.
Yep Kodi runs like sh.. on my Nexus Player as well.
But on my Shield Tv it runs without any problems.
Video not playing on Kodi
Hi, I had the same problem. My video library is hosted on a Windows 7 PC and connecting over SMB to stream a film would work sometimes but not others. After much research I found the problem to be the network connection to the Windows PC. I found this out by installing ES File explorer on my Android TV and copying a large file to the local storage of the player. The copy would usually start then suddenly stop after a random length of time, additionally the bandwidth was very low. Try this to make sure you can copy a large file to the device without any problems.
I fixed the problem with a combination of solutions. I upgraded the network card drivers of the Windows 7 PC, I purchased an OTG LAN adapter for the Nexus Player and finally I used haneWIN to connect to my media library via NFS rather than SMB.
I now have a rock solid connection.
Hope this helps
Thanks for the responses. I have found that streaming the videos to Kodi via UPnP with Emby works fine. So I am thinking that is a network issue. I have DHCP set up, so I think what I will try is setting a static IP for the Windows PC
I also have one of these Ubee Modem/Router combos, but I have been using my own router. I didn't have the Ubee in bridge mode, which I changed last night. So I will get everything set again like I had it and see if it will play without stopping.
your problem is most likely trying to stream content over wifi. i dont care what anybody says, wifi + streaming media sucks. it can work fine 1 minute and then stop working another regardless of how good your connection may be.
WORK IN PROGRESS: UPDATING
STOP PRESS: FIRESTARTER 3.0 RELEASED. SANITY RESTORED.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/themes-apps/app-root-home-launcher-replacement-app-t3118135
Before sending your Fire TV/Stick back to Amazon in disgust, beware of its limitations, and try these tips.
Bottom line is it's going to be a solid step up from Fire TV 1. But right now, it has a few issues.
Let's talk about the elephant in the room: the angry reviews. Almost all the complaints are about the glitchy remote (we have a fix), battery cover (sometimes the customer isn't always right), audio issues (Amazon is patching, stay tuned). No question, it's got some bugs out of the gate, but Amazon has responded and hopefully all will be resolved shortly . Enjoy:
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-DV83YW-Fire-TV/product-reviews/B00U3FPN4U/
Fire TV 2: hardware shortcomings by design that many regard as substandard.
If these are important, you might need to look elsewhere.
1. USB 2.0 not even USB 3.0. USB-C is the new standard appearing on phones and laptops.
2. Ethernet 10/100 not GB.
3. No optical port. Possible solution: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010JQMHNW/?
4. HDMI 1.4, not HDMI 2.0, limited to 4K at 30fps.
Software bugs and annoyances, most probably due to OS 5, but yet to be confirmed.
Could be fixed either by Amazon or developers.
1. Audio limited to stereo other than for Amazon Prime. Quiet audio.
As promised, Amazon has released a patch (extremely quickly):
“By this coming Monday, October 12th, you will receive an automatic software update that enables Dolby Digital Plus for customers who have a Dolby Digital Plus system (including support for Netflix and Amazon Video). An update for older Dolby Digital systems (not Dolby Digital Plus) will be distributed on November 30th.” -Amazon
Update from AFTVNews:
One of the new device’s largest complaints, a lack of Dolby Digital surround sound support, which has been partially fixed already, stems from changes made to support Netflix. I’m told by my source at Amazon that Netflix gave the Fire TV engineering team a new version of their software at the last minute which required changes to the Fire TV’s software to work correctly. Those changes conflicted with Dolby Digital surround sound support. With not enough time to fix support for both, Amazon was faced with the decision to ship without Netflix or without Dolby Digital surround sound. They chose the latter which, in my opinion, was the right choice.
http://www.aftvnews.com/amazon-is-d...-internal-testing-pool-for-bug-fixing-effort/
2. Fire TV 2 WiFi Remote drops out, glitchy, lags, etc.
Do this when setting up if you're connecting via Ethernet: disconnect your LAN cable, connect to WiFi, reconnect your network cable.
And then do this anytime if your remote becomes laggy: disconnect Ethernet cable, reconnect Ethernet cable.
That should fix it. Really, it's usually that simple.
If not, there could be interference, you could try changing channels or frequency on your router or restrict the available protocols (just N or AC, for example). Let us know if you're still having problems.
3. Highly inconvenient to launch Kodi and other sideloaded apps.
Long story, somewhat shortened: The Fire OS only shows icons for apps obtained from Amazon's App Store. That, unfortunately, doesn't include Kodi, everyone's favourite media player, and about 99% of the reason the AFTV has a cult following. There have been two popular ways to get around Amazon's belligerence: by having Kodi launch as proxy of another app (usually Ikono TV) using Llama; or by employing Firestarter to bind it to the Home button.
Both can be loaded via ADFire.
Unfortunately, Llama no longer works (for this purpose) in OS5/AFTV2, so skip that route and install FireStarter:
ADBFire : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2786505
FireStarter http://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/themes-apps/app-root-home-launcher-replacement-app-t3118135
Kodi: http://kodi.tv
I recommend mapping the Home Button single click to Kodi, and the Home button double-click to Amazon Home. Or if you'd prefer to use Firestarter as your home screen, then map it to the double-click. The added bonus to this setup is every time you're in Kodi and hit the Home button inadvertently, instead of losing your **** yet again, it'll just flash in and out of the app and then pause whatever you're watching.
Here's a guide on sideloading to the Fire. Again, I strongly recommend ADBFire:
http://www.aftvnews.com/sideload/
If you have an Android tablet or phone, there are several apps that can push apps across to the Fire, such as Apps2Fire. That way you can download your apps direct from the official Google Play Store. Don't forget they won't automatically update. You'll need to push those updates across as well.
4. Can't connect via ADB to sideload using ADBFire etc since using FireStarter
First up: make sure you have ADB enabled. Settings>System>Developer Options> Both ADB Debugging and Apps from Unknown Sources need to be On.
FireStarter has two methods of intercepting Home button presses: one using ADB, and one not using ADB. The issue that's arisen since the introduction of Fire OS 5 is that the operating system no longer permits parallel ADB connections, so if FireStarter is using it to intercept Home button presses, you won't be able to connect to the Fire TV using ADB, and thus you won't be able to sideload apps and files using ADBFire.
We now have two options:
Option 1 (Firestarter won't use ADB): Open FireStarter, under Settings, uncheck "Home Detection via ADB."
Advantage: You only need ADB enabled to connect with ADBFire. No need to touch FireStarter.
Disadvantage: Only detects your customized Home button choices within the Fire TV's home screen, and not within apps. Pressing Home within Kodi, for example, will return you to the Home screen. Pressing it again will send you back to Kodi (or whatever action you've chosen. A potential advantage is this now gives you three variants of the Home button: a single and double-click from the Home screen; and the traditional Fire TV Home shortcut from within any app.
Option 2: (FireStarter uses ADB): Open FireStarter, check "Home Detection via ADB"
Advantage: FireStarter will now obey your Home button choices (single and double-click) from anywhere.
Disadvantage: You will either need to kill FireStarter (see below) or temporarily revert to Option 1 in order to do your ADB stuff. Note: there's now a handy shortcut direct to the ADB Debugging toggle within FireStarter.
Tip: If you go with Option 2, you can quickly kill FireStarter's grip on ADB by going: Settings>Manage Applications>FireStarter and Force Stop. And then restarting FireStarter or the Device once you've finished your ADB business.
5. External storage limited to disks formatted in FAT32.
There's no reason why Amazon couldn't enable other formats, but there's little incentive to bother. Even Macs don't support NTFS out of the box. Either format your drives in FAT32 (and split larger files if necessary) or move them to a network share. Not hard to work around. Here's a tip:
http://www.aftvnews.com/how-to-play...b-off-the-fire-tvs-fat32-usb-storage-in-kodi/
6. Difficult to remove battery cover?
No it's not. Slide it back then lift it up. Dead easy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3t1GOCzjzY&
7. Can't move Kodi to external storage.
http://www.aftvnews.com/some-apps-like-kodi-cannot-write-to-external-storage-yet-on-fire-os-5/
Upgrade to Jarvis (still in alpha but perfectly acceptable).
8. LED only glowing when it detects a remote button press
Either a bug or a new way of doing things. Either way, it's not ideal.
9. Can't Chromecast from Android device to Fire TV
Yes, you can cast from Youtube, but nothing else (that I can find). Blame Google for that:
http://www.aftvnews.com/google-has-chromecast-receiver-app-pulled-from-fire-tv-appstore/
You can, however, Airplay to it. Via Kodi is one method, that usually works, but can be flaky sometimes. There are a bunch of apps you can try. Some work better than others. I picked up this one when it was free, it works:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/x9F99-x65B9-x513F-AirReceiver/dp/B00L5HQRGS/
And for those of you with other Amazon devices, there's always Fling:
https://developer.amazon.com/public...g/docs/understanding-the-amazon-fling-service
How about Bluetooth controller frequently loses connection to the AFTV? Mine drops it's connection probably 2 or 3 times every hour.
sudman said:
How about Bluetooth controller frequently loses connection to the AFTV? Mine drops it's connection probably 2 or 3 times every hour.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Isn't the AFTV2 remote Wi-Fi?
I will be watching this thread closely. Thank you for posting.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using XDA Free mobile app
list additions
I would add to the list:
Issues with day 1 software update, (several resets, issues to get working)
Wifi remote constantly cuts on/off (taking out batteries seems like temp fix)
Stutters in apps like WatchESPN
Second the dropping of lama/kodi icon support
Despite better hardware, little change in actual performance (yet to be fully seen)
Claude Koch said:
Isn't the AFTV2 remote Wi-Fi?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was under the impression that it was BT same as the original but cant find a definitive answer eitherway. Eitherway the damn thing keeps discontecting!!!! Will be sending mine back if things dont improve fast.
sudman said:
I was under the impression that it was BT same as the original but cant find a definitive answer eitherway. Eitherway the damn thing keeps discontecting!!!! Will be sending mine back if things dont improve fast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.aftvnews.com/list-of-all-fire-tv-and-fire-tv-stick-remote-and-game-controller-specs/
Claude Koch said:
About time we compiled a tally of what's broken, missing or just plain annoying on the new Fire TV, and what's (about to be) broken by the official release of OS 5 on the old Fire TV.
4. More to come.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this. I was criticized elsewhere for bringing up some shortcomings of 2. I am very interested in the gizmo you linked that breaks off the 5.1 via Optical and 2ch mini-jack from the HDMI stream. The product dates back to 2013 which makes me skeptical. I've bought a few of these that did not work. I have 4 port Monoprice HDMI switch that has the 5.1 and 2ch breakout. It disappoints as it is 5.1 OR 2ch, not both. The one's I have had tried similar to your post would pass sound to all six speakers but it was in reality Stereo which will fool some people. The clue for me is, does the blue Dolby light come on? A quick test for DD Plus handling is "House of Cards". If you get a blue light viewing that, it's good to go. It's been almost a year since I last fooled with them so maybe there is something that is NEW and works.
I am still looking for one that really works. The only thing I know that splits off 5.1, for real, is 1's Optical connector.
What's funny is that I pitched my Roku3 over the DD+ impasse. Now Roku4 is coming out and it HAS an optical connector.
I have an Echo/Alexa too and waiting to see how all that works out with my 1 if it does at all. I'm rooted so unless Rbox comes through, I'm out of luck. Right now my Echo is pretty much a party novelty but it can now control my Nest and Insteon devices. Just found the most useful feature is using it as a meat timer.
It's a shame 2 isn't all of 1 but better and more.
I had problems with the connection with my remote too.
Are you used ethernet at the first start to connect with your router? Never set up wifi connection?
Try this
1. disconnect fire tv from ethernet
2. connect fire tv to wifi
3. reconnect the remote to fire tv
4. connect fire tv to ethernet again
for me i think it works... I am not 100% sure because the connection lost was very rare before. but give it a try.. :laugh:
There are huge issues with the WiFi the gain on the 5GHz 802.11ac is terrible in addition to issues above. I sent two of them back. Returning all of them is the only way Amazon will fix this!
I hate to say it, but it's looking like a lemon.
Edit: things are looking much better today.
What is an "Accessory Port". On my 1 I use a little dongle called Flirc to allow my Logitech Harmony One unified remote to control it. Needed it to feed the "Menu" command to 1. I now have a Harmony Ultimate with Hub and just imported the same settings.
I wonder if 2's "Accessory port" will allow a Flirc dongle to support unified IR remotes. Also wonder if it is even necessary with the 2. The Ultimate remote is still totally IR but the Hub is WiFi allowing it to talk to some smart devices. Guess I could test but hate to fix something that ain't broke. That's the main reason I'm afraid of 2. See no benefit except for 4K and I don't have that. My 1 setup works pretty well.
What I want to do is ditch my $160/mo DirecTV bill and replace it with another DVR option. SBC (aka AT&T) ate them and nothing good will come from that. "Repeating" myself, the Tivo Bolt is intriguing. Would replace FireTV and DirecTV. On the other hand, my rooted 1 with Nova Launcher and a Logitech K400 KB is a pretty nice little big screen Android box.
Nothing is just right.
sudman said:
How about Bluetooth controller frequently loses connection to the AFTV? Mine drops it's connection probably 2 or 3 times every hour.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's an abomination. Seems like the wifi keeps dropping out.
Edit: fixed.
Claude Koch said:
It's an abomination. Seems like the wifi keeps dropping out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But it's ON SALE. hurry while the supply lasts. Pulling 2 1/2 Stars. Not good.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U3FPN4U/?tag=aftvndeal-20
The Main Reason AFTV 2 Is Not For Me
Root and Nova Launcher
Claude Koch said:
It's an abomination. Seems like the wifi keeps dropping out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A page back i posted a method to fix that if you are used ethernet cable at the first start o AFTV2.
Try this
1. disconnect fire tv from ethernet
2. connect fire tv to wifi
3. reconnect the remote to fire tv
4. connect fire tv to ethernet again
For me no connection losts between remote control and AFTV2 after a couple of hours.
I know the Apple TV was looming, but I don't get why Amazon felt the need to rush this out so fast. There just really isn't a reason to refresh a video streaming device annually. I understand they wanted to beat Apple to 4K, but looks like it cost them this time. I am sure updates will make it better, but this box might be the dud when we look back and the history of these things. I just hope it doesn't flop so bad they stop future revisions.
MajorWinters said:
A page back i posted a method to fix that if you are used ethernet cable at the first start o AFTV2.
Try this
1. disconnect fire tv from ethernet
2. connect fire tv to wifi
3. reconnect the remote to fire tv
4. connect fire tv to ethernet again
For me no connection losts between remote control and AFTV2 after a couple of hours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to let it be for a couple of days, then try your fix. Otherwise, I won't know it it helped.
Been trying to get it to detect the bluetooth remote from my other Fire TV but not having any luck.
EDIT: Great tip, seems to have done the trick! Added to list.
I sent mine back. I can't believe that the newer Fire TV performs much worse than my 1st Gen Fire TV. Here is what I find annoying.
Remote cover is very hard to open. Broke my nail and it took me nearly a half hour to get it open. Once it is open it is much easier after.
Remote freezes and stops responding. Have to take out batteries and put them back in. At first I though the unit froze but my BT keyboard works fine. Had to use that quite often.
Netflix no 5.1 surround sound. Also it takes much longer to get up to 1080p. On my old Fire TV 1080p instantly and if not just restart the stream. On the 2nd gen Fire TV mud quality sub 480p which can take up to 40 seconds or longer to get to 1080p unless I fast forward and rewind the stream but then it ends up ruining what I am watching when there are spoilers in the beginning of the program.
Other third party apps actually run worse. They stutter and skip frames like trying to watch a HD video on a Celeron PC from 2008.
The external storage option is a joke. First thing is they should have included more than 8gb of internal storage because the external microSD is useless. I moved all the apps and games I can to the external storage however most apps and some games still store at least half the data on internal storage so even then I was already running low on space while my 64gb microSD barely used any space.
Box runs much warmer than before and I have it on a cooling pad.
To me the picture quality seems worse. I don't have a 4k TV just 1080p but the picture is much darker and reds look more pixelated.
That is what I can think of off the bat but in the end I ended up sending it back like many others and I see a recall soon from Amazon. They should have never released this thing as the 1st Gen Fire TV was pretty much perfect. Yes it had issues when it first came out mainly the once outdated Netflix app and having to occasionally clear the Amazon video data app when it would not play but otherwise it performed much better than this new thing does.
It's looking like under OS5, external storage is sandboxed as read-only to Kodi. The same seems true of Android TV (Nvidia Shield), so I suppose it's a Lollipop security issue. If I'm right, this means no moving Kodi data/thumbnails to external storage and using the /sdcard/xbmc_env.properties to redirect. Can anyone confirm/disprove this?
Hi Guys,
I got one of these to port some midi code from iOs.
First midi over bluetooth is working fine.
Midi over usb, whether host or device basically hangs after one packet of data is received, no more midi.
The actual tablet may also totally hang at this point requiring a hard reset.
Has anyone else had experience of this?
Many thanks
Andy
I've tried plugging it into a Yamaha ydp143 and it is as you describe.
I've tried several apps but it freezes. I've tried on my android phone and the piano appears as a second midi device...
Thanks very much for trying that out for me, I now know it isn't my particular one.
I have been attempting to try to work out how to actually file a bug with Amazon about this, they seem to want to make this hard!
I've done the below tests and sent this message to [email protected]
----------
Hi,
I have attempted to use my Fire Tablet HD 10 Plus as a midi host and it does not work, regardless of the application used it crashes.
I have tested the cable and several USB C adapters with my android phone, a 2021 iPad and iPhone and I can rule out the cable, adapters and applications.
What happens:
Download and install a MIDI host application, suggest FluidSynth.
Plug in a midi keyboard, I have a Yamaha YDP-143 Digital Piano.
Open the application, turn on the Piano.
The application will recognise the Piano, but it will not be set as a MIDI input source.
When selecting the Piano as an input source in the application, the application will hang and then crash.
The FireHD will return to the Home screen view after 20-30 seconds.
I have tried it with other applications on the Fire HD 10 Plus and it results in the same crashing behaviour.
When tested with my Android device or iOS device this is the general behaviour:
Download and install a MIDI host application to a device, suggest FluidSynth.
Plug in a midi keyboard, I have a Yamaha YDP-143 Digital Piano.
Open the application, and turn on the Piano.
The application will recognise the Piano, but it will not be set as a MIDI input source.
When selecting the keyboard as an input source the application will show a selected state for the input.
When pressing keys on the Piano it plays a sound from the device.
I have tried it with other applications and it results in similar working behaviour.
Please can you advise how to fix it?
Thank you,
Well I don't think there is much you can do about it, there is a problem with the Fire tablet.
It is only something Amazon can fix with a software update.
I cannot work out how to even report this problem with amazon, and from what I can see this has existed from at least the beginning of October 2021 from looking on the internet.
The only solution currently I can think of is to buy another tablet or to wait for Amazon to fix it.
Yes I think you're correct. I have also tried setting the default usb connection type to midi via the developer options but it was the same crashing issue. Amazon will need to fix it.
I used my Fire tablet (Fire HD 8 2018) as a virtual MIDI keyboard with TouchDAW app then connected to my computer and tested on a various DAWs (or digital audio workstations) such as FL Studio and Ableton Live.
Thanks for the info.
I think is is an issue with the recent HD10s.
I should have got the 8!
same here. USB Midi-In on the last generation Fire HD10 doesn't work!