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Plastic Battery Cover?

hmm.. just wanna ask you guys..
if theres a replacement plastic battery cover for our htc hd2?..
to make it slight lighter.. haha..
thanks!

Since that same backplate functions as a heatsink.... you wouldn't want to do that. Or you'll have to recharge in a cold room.

I need to lose weight.
And one way i could think of is by replacing the metal battery cover with a plastic one.
I live near the equator and my hd2 spends most of its time in either a metal case, or a plastic case, so overheating is the least of my concern. By the way, between the metal battery cover and the battery is a small rubber sponge-like tape. I wonder, does that really transfer heat?
Neway, im still searching for a plastic battery case...

dsx2b said:
And one way i could think of is by replacing the metal battery cover with a plastic one.
I live near the equator and my hd2 spends most of its time in either a metal case, or a plastic case, so overheating is the least of my concern. By the way, between the metal battery cover and the battery is a small rubber sponge-like tape. I wonder, does that really transfer heat?
Neway, im still searching for a plastic battery case...
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Think the spongey stuff just stops the battery moving. I have the official HTC extended battery and the extended back cover that comes with that is plastic although that would not make it any lighter (or any smaller)

why does your phone need to lose weight???
Do we really want to know?

As far as I know the metal cover is there also to prevent the possibility of twisting your phone, thus preventing your glass from breaking!

Why do you want to save weight when you said you put it in a metal case? Seems a bit backward?

HELP PLEASE BROKE MY HD2's Screen!!!

hi everyone so i managed to break my hd2s screen yeah i know it sucks.. right now im in the process of changing the digitizer for a new one i bought off of ebay.. i took the phone apart that was pretty simple but while doing so i removed many glue copper like stickers and also adhesive strips specially the one holding the digitizer and the lcd together.. my question is if anybody knows where i can buy the adhesive strips.. and most important the cooper like tape since it was covering the sides and the back part where the battery goes.. has anyone been successful at fixing their broken hd2 and is the copper-like tape important.. or can i just use some regular hot temperature resistant tape? well thanks in advance for the help

To all those who have disassembled an Evo

I'm in the process of fixing an evo that had a broken charge port, and was scratched up pretty bad on the front frame, and there was dust under the screen. I removed the digitizer, and took out the LCD. I have a new front frame, and notice the adhesive for the digitizer is only on the top and bottom of the glass, where the ear speaker and capacitive buttons are. Is this the way the digitizer is attached from the HTC factory?
I have another evo I bought on release day, and I haven't had one spec of dust get in, and it lives in my pocket, so if this is how it was done from the factory, I won't be concerned. But I just wanted to make sure.

I believe the ifixit teardown also only showed adhesive at the top and bottom of the frame.

It's top and bottom. I usually add more on the sides if it feels a bit loose. But that's just me trying to satisfy picky customers.

I found the digitizer adhesive, and it does cover the entire perimeter. Just ordering the front frame only has adhesive on the top and bottom. I figured I'd play it safe, to make sure there's almost no chance of dust getting between the digitizer and the lcd.

which is where did you get the adhesive. also looking for some help fixing my port.
tokuzumi said:
I found the digitizer adhesive, and it does cover the entire perimeter. Just ordering the front frame only has adhesive on the top and bottom. I figured I'd play it safe, to make sure there's almost no chance of dust getting between the digitizer and the lcd.
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looking for some help with the adhesive and the port. who has the real port for the evo. i have bought two from difer places amd no luck. very close just not good enough to put it on myself

would love some help with the port. ps me
need some help with the port. cant find where to buy it.
Sunsparc said:
It's top and bottom. I usually add more on the sides if it feels a bit loose. But that's just me trying to satisfy picky customers.
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Click to collapse

No idea, Sprint ASC's aren't allowed to solder.

Sunsparc said:
No idea, Sprint ASC's aren't allowed to solder.
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Are you in a corporate location or ISC?

Nexus 7 faster method for separating and glue removal from LCD and digitizer

Hello,
I got a Nexus 7 tablet with a broken digitizer for free, I started watching info and videos on the net on how to separate that digitizer from the god LCD.
The heat gun solution looks a bit too hard to control. I chose to try to make my own heat plate.
I have made the heating plate based on stuff found around the house, also I borrowed some stuff from work until I will receive the controller I ordered from Ebay.
Basically, I got an aluminum plate cut from a scrap piece, drilled holes to hold those lock down clamps, everything is just made to resemble those professional separation machines.
There are 2 small round heaters underneath, each around 200W, more than needed for this application.
I tried heating the assembly up to 85 deg C and the lcd metal back cover starts to lift up, separating from the lcd glass itself, oops, had to press down on it and lower the temp to around 65 C ,now it sits in place.
I bought 2-3 broken digitizers with screens from a guy that repairs tablets, just to practice before I really try to do the change the digitizer on my tablet.
I will put pictures of the removed and cleaned LCD’s, the digitizers were just used to practice the LOCA glue removal, I throw them away after. Too much glass pieces.
Here is the name of the video: Nexus 7 LCD separation from digitizer, fast LOCA removal. Please turn on CC on the video to see more info.
The separation of the lcd is done with some guitar wire 0.007”, not sure if smaller diameter it will do better or not.
I had a problem on one practice screen, I cut thru the front polarizing film on the lcd. that’s why I started the separation from the lcd connector side, wire gets better there between the digitizer and the lcd.
One great thing I found is by using silicon grease, it makes the sawing much easier and you only need one pass to separate the lcd.
After separating the lcd, cleaning up the loca glue is also easy, thanks to my other interesting finding I did, by using essential oils.
There are so many out there, like tea tree oil, oregano oil, tried them, they all do a good job.
I finally used the citronella oil because it was only 4$ for 15ml, probably you can do lots of cleaning from one bottle and also repelling the mosquitos around you.
As you can see, apply small drops, spread uniformly with your finger, then wait, after 4-5 hours the glue comes off very easy.
If any excess oil, absorb-it with a paper towel. If it’s too much oil, not good also.
The good thing about oil is that it will have much less ( more like zero) chances to go inside the LCD panel and make spots, like the alcohol can do.
Finished the cleaning with some 99% isopropyl alcohol ( from the pharmacy).
I’m sure after this, some people will try to sell “ miracle” loca glue remover. Hope this post will remain here to give some great info to those searching.
This is valid for any kind of lcd loca glue cleaning, is it a phone or tablet, it will work.
I think I will try to reapply the uv loca glue to the new digitizer, I will wait for the ordered glue to come.
With all the things I purchased maybe is not economical for one tablet, but the experience I got is priceless, I’m happy to share with others.

Can't replace glass without replacing LCD

Just wanted to inform everyone that despite the fact that you can buy replacement glass for the Priv, without some magic solvent I don't have access to, there is no way to remove the glass from the LCD without breaking it too. So probably don't bother paying for a replacement digitizer if it doesn't include an LCD

Did you use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive or is it literally not possible to separate the glass from the lcd and frame

gonka95 said:
Did you use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive or is it literally not possible to separate the glass from the lcd and frame
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i tried using a heat gun, but due to how it's designed and how thin and fragile this LCD is unless you got some kind of solvent that literally removed the adhesive it's going to break whenever you try to separate them. Luckily i had bought two of them with cracked glass and only destroyed one in this process, and the cracks aren't bad enough to impair the function or visibility of the screen on the one left over. Only problem is i'm using the Verizon model, which can't use LTE band 9 as far as i know, on T-mobile. The thing that bothers me most though is the fact that people DO sell replacement glass for it when you can't only replace that. If anyone feels like they have better skills than i do and wants to prove me wrong, though, i'm rooting for you.

Glass only repair is possible. After 7 hours I did it

DEXEIL said:
Glass only repair is possible. After 7 hours I did it
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Solvent or 7 hours worth of application of heat gun?

Isopropyl alcohol

7hrs?!
DEXEIL said:
Isopropyl alcohol
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Hi there, just wondering how you went about doing this? Did you use heat first and then the alcohol?
Would you be able to provide a few steps? I imagine it would be heat edges, use pry bar/card to loosen glass, insert solvent and repeat. Can I drop solvent directly into craked surface or "holes"?
I watched the youtube tear down and was hoping to avoid all of that.
I bought a glass screen replacement from ebay ~$15.
Presently the glass is cracked, and shattered but the screen works perfectly, and I'm considering just slapping a film on it instead, unless the glass swap is easy?
7hrs?!

mellofellow said:
Hi there, just wondering how you went about doing this? Did you use heat first and then the alcohol?
Would you be able to provide a few steps? I imagine it would be heat edges, use pry bar/card to loosen glass, insert solvent and repeat. Can I drop solvent directly into craked surface or "holes"?
I watched the youtube tear down and was hoping to avoid all of that.
I bought a glass screen replacement from ebay ~$15.
Presently the glass is cracked, and shattered but the screen works perfectly, and I'm considering just slapping a film on it instead, unless the glass swap is easy?
7hrs?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never used heat, just remove glass with a thin card and alcohol, then remove piece of plastic BUT make sure LCD be attached to frame I used tape, see pics

Thank you! I will give this a try

Update
This is NOT worth it! And 7 hours sounds about right!
I can verify no heat is needed, simply pick at the broken shards till there's exposed LCD. Drop in isopropyl alcohol and keep picking. use goggles as broken pieces flew up at my eyes and across the room. Do it in the garage! Wipe off excess with gauze. After 2 hours I got through maybe a 1/4 of the screen. I then made the mistake of taking the digitizer with LCD assembly off to slide a card under the cracked glass edges. It really sped things up, but ended up damaging the LCD (purple lines) permanently. Basically once it's disassembled, the piece is actually quite flimsy and bends too much beyond what the LCD can take.
In short, no way this is worth it.

DEXEIL said:
Never used heat, just remove glass with a thin card and alcohol, then remove piece of plastic BUT make sure LCD be attached to frame I used tape, see pics
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what the hell ... how is the glass digitizer all curled up like a paper ?