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Alright, may be a little off subject, but I need some advice. I am trying to figure out a way to hook up my htc 8525 to my cd player in my car. Unfortunately, my cd player does have a AUX hookup, so I am not able to just buy the Mini USB to 3.5 mm cable and hard wire into my CD player through the AUX input. Any ideas on another way to do this? The car does not have blue tooth integrated neither.
Thanks in advance!
- Casper
No AUX input.. no bluetooth... kinda hard, but not impossible. Depending on the brand of your car deck, you might be able to buy an auxiliary input adapter. I know for sure that Pioneers do that. You can buy an "ipbus adapter" that plugs into the back of it where the CD changer would and you can route the audio from your phone that way. I know Alpines and Sonys also have this ability.
your best best and pretty inexpensive ...is to use a fm transmitter alongs with your Mini USB to 3.5 mm cable this is how I do it with hy 8125 and plan to do with my 8525 when I get my Mini USB to 3.5 mm cable
NRGZ28 said:
No AUX input.. no bluetooth... kinda hard, but not impossible. Depending on the brand of your car deck, you might be able to buy an auxiliary input adapter. I know for sure that Pioneers do that. You can buy an "ipbus adapter" that plugs into the back of it where the CD changer would and you can route the audio from your phone that way. I know Alpines and Sonys also have this ability.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting.. I have a Pioneer deck, so I may be able to do it this way! Will have to check the deck after work to make sure that it has that connector on it. Thanks!
ljinsane said:
your best best and pretty inexpensive ...is to use a fm transmitter alongs with your Mini USB to 3.5 mm cable this is how I do it with hy 8125 and plan to do with my 8525 when I get my Mini USB to 3.5 mm cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I thought of this option, just hate the output quality with an FM Transmitter. Thanks!
Yeah the FM quality blows usually. Go to your local car audio shop to get one of those adapter. They're about 20 bucks. I know Best Buy has them, that's where I bought mine.
Do a search for PIE Electronics Auxilliary adapter... if your head unit has CD-Changer control ( like my Honda Pilot) then you can get a PIE adapter which basically gives you an aux input. The sound quality is FAR superior to the FM modulated stuff. The adapter takes a dual-rca style input - so you'd need the 3.5 adapter into dual rca into the PIE. Works perfectly for me with my Sirius - and if I want to listen to my 8525 I just unplug the 3.5 from my sirius and plug it into my phone
Side note - if you get a PIE adapter - do *NOT* connect the ground. I know that sounds odd but I got wicked alternator noise with the ground connected to a good ground, go ZERO noise with it disconnected entirely.
i just modded the stock headset, chopped off the headphone wires and spliced in a 1/8" male audio connector and RCA outputs, i have aftermarket radios in my rides so i have RCA inputs..
JamesHolden said:
i just modded the stock headset, chopped off the headphone wires and spliced in a 1/8" male audio connector and RCA outputs, i have aftermarket radios in my rides so i have RCA inputs..
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I checked my CD player yesterday, it does not have the CD changer plug. How did you do this through the RCA plugs I know my head unit has RCA plugs because I currently have my AMP hooked up to the RCA plugs. I just don't see how RCA can be used to take in sound and play it through the speakers, I thought RCA was for output. Maybe I'm wrong?
If you have that going to an amp, the RCA's you're using are "pre-amp outputs"- operative word being outputs... Most radios do not have auxilliary RCA inputs... I have a kenwood KDC-mp528 that does...
Look into _WIRED_ FM modulators
The same concept as the wireless FM deals, but without the interference and associated sound quality issues.
They basically plug in between the antenna and the head unit. when turned on, they completely replace the signal on the selected frequency so even a strong radio signal will not interfere.
The concept is well-illustrated here:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/car/peripherals_installation_guide.html?page=3
Prices vary by features, but they're normally cheaper than the wireless equivalents. Look for examples here:
http://www.etronics.com/c-2435-modulators.aspx
Hope it helps!
you could just hook the 8525 up w/ the RCAs to the AMP and have a way of switching between the headunit and 8525...
just an idea
bah. go old school. tapedeck-to-headphone adapter
lovin' my 99
I just got a new car that has an auxiliary jack that says I can play my music from MP3/Ipod players. I bought myself a 3.5 mm cord, plugged it into the HD and the Auxiliary port in the car stereo, but there's no sound.
Is there something else I need to do in order to hook my Blackstone up to my car stereo's Auxiliary jack? I figured the 3.5 mm Auxiliary port would just hook up to the HD's headphone jack as if the stereo would act as headphones. Am I wrong?
With mine, I just plugged the 3.5mm jack into the HD and every sound even phone calls automatically came through the cars speakers.
Try plugging another device with a 3.5mm jack into the car, if there is still no sound the theirs either a setting on the head unit or cable may be faulty.
Here is the cable I used, connected directly to the back of the head unit using RCA connectors.
http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=172348
Hmm, does sound (sorry) like a cable problem. I have plugged the HD into external speakers via the 3.5 socket with no problems.
What you are aiming for should work but the cable needs to be right.
You probably have to go to the option on your car stereo. It's just like changing from the fm receiver to the cd player on your car stereo (except you have to go to aux-in).
Look in the car stereo manual how to activate the aux-in option.
If Headsets work fine on your HD this should work as well.
Then it's not a problem with you phone.
Thanks for the replies, everyone. I did switch it to the "Aux" function as opposed to Radio/Satellite/CD/Etc., so I'll see if my son's iPod Touch works or maybe there's something else I have to do with the stereo in the user manual. Otherwise I'll assume the cable is faulty. Hope my wife didn't throw out the packaging just yet! It was just a cheap $7 retractable one I got from Target. Next option is a 3 foot $15 one.
Also, make sure you connected the cable to the aux-in on the stereo and not the aux-out. This isn't always indicated in a clear way (I'm just thinking what it could be).
Timbojames said:
Also, make sure you connected the cable to the aux-in on the stereo and not the aux-out. This isn't always indicated in a clear way (I'm just thinking what it could be).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, thanks for the input. Luckily it's pretty idiot-proof. It's the manufacturer installed Bose stereo system in a 2009 Nissan Rogue. There's only one input on the front face of the stereo panel labeled "Aux In". And you press a button labeled "AUX" to use it as far as I know. Pretty handy!
i have the same problem with my Alpine stereo,has an AUX Input,Even when i enable aux on the head unit still no sound.Taken it to my local car audio garage and theyre baffled!
Later said to me it could be a faulty HU
Ah, well I am used to after market stereo's with the connections on the back (rca connection).
Sorry that I'm not able to help. Well as long as you get sound through headsets and such it is not a problem with the HD, but I guess you figured that out.
Sadly those RCA's are usually outputs for an amp :'(
I'll test my son's iPod Touch today with the cord and see if his works. If his doesn't work also then I'll try a different 3.5 mm to 3.5 mm cord. If THAT doesn't work then I'll have to assume the stereo is malfunctioning.
Another thing that crossed my mind is what if the headphone jack on the HD doesn't produce enough juice to feed into the stereo. Would that be possible? Although it sounds like others are able to get theirs to work, so I'm assuming the HD puts out enough.
Thanks again for the quick input, everybody!
when you plug the lead into the touchHD, you do get the liitle headfones show up on the topbar of the screen?
you havent muted the media player somehow?
you have removed the 100dB eurolimit on the HD output yes?
vol on the HD is around the 80% on both media player and general system sound?
AUX is actually enabled on the headunit in the car? on my factory fitted headunit, the aux button is switchable between the aux line in and an external cd player... if you have the manual for the headunit, have a look to see if there is this option
the headfone jack on the HD pushes out plenty of power, especially if the 100dB limit is removed (hd tweak or advance config... dont forget to disable audio booster and the EQ as that will really mess up the sound)
So here's what I wanna do -
I want to use the galaxy 7.7 (preferred this model just because its the only galaxy with call function) instead of the stock head unit in my car. I was thinking of going completely wireless and streaming the audio to my car amp via a bluetooth receiver. But what would happen when I receive a call? the sound will be streamed to my amp, but what happens with the audio in / microphone ?
Would it be enough to speak straight to the tab's microphone? will the microphone be enabled at all?
The other option, which i prefer less is to run wires to my amp rather than using a bluetooth receiver, and via bluetooth connect to a hands free car kit (but this means I would have to plug in the audio each time as I wont leave the tab in my car ever)...
Any suggestions on how to get this done?
PS is there any hack available to use the call function on the galaxy tab 10.1?
Thanks!!
Unless you have some sort of amplifier that received power and signal wirelessly, you're going to need some kind of line output converter to get audio out of the gtab 7.7 and into your amp. What you're talking about doing, if I'm understanding you correctly simply can not be done.
Work well with audio cable ^^ tested calling or streaming from 7.7
Sent from my GT-P6800 using xda premium
Josvaz said:
Work well with audio cable ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, using an audio cable to extract the audio would be along the lines of a line output converter, like I said before
what the OP is talking about is having something that's completely wireless, that will act as a source unit and interface with his amplifier ... wirelessly. Simply just won't work that way.
I have considered doing this (just ordered a GT 6800) but see now that there are android head units starting to come out. Still, you can always use bluetooth to connect the GT to your sound system. It will have good stereo sound and also have the mic input.
Here's my set up: Tab 7.0 plus wifi only but I use a hotspot on the road. I'm using cables to connect audio but thought about bluetooth, but I think you get better sound with cables maybe not! why buy a head unit $800.00 that doesn't give you a 1/4 of the functionality you get with the Tab.
Sorry forgot to post picture
i use bluetooth for my audio because i like the way i can use my steering wheel controls to do next/previous track on the tablet.
The audio is fine for me, but current bluetooth still not as good audio-wise as a real cable. If you use a cable and power the tablet at the same time you may get a hum - if so, put a PAC SN1 to reduce the ground-loop interference.
Bandzdaddy - It looks like Torque app, am i right? I use that as well because my turbo car didn't come with a boost gauge and Torque let's me have a virtual one!
xda thread w/my setup: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1623411
(sorry I can't post any links, but you can google the words in bold)
Are there any Android head units that support optical audio out?
I've been researching the last few nights (hours!) for a WIRED way to get a toslink optical cable to a Audison Prima AP8.9 Amp/DSP.
Are there any electrical engineers out there who have thought about bypassing the onboard DAC to get digital output?
Or.... is my only option to provide <96kHz optical audio to get an AptX lossless Bluetooth receiver like the Neet AptX lossless bluetooth receiver. Can anyone share experience on how well the Android units perform constantly connected to a BT receiver for all car audio? Esp. if you have the new Pumpkins with the Parrot BT card, in case that improves things.
Thanks!
I'm looking for the same answer, i've installed the neet receiver, but unfortunate for me, the head unit does not connect. I don't think it can be used as transmitter.
I've found this, but I don't know if it works...
http://www.matrix-digi.com/en/products/158/index.html
You all may be overthinking this. Turns out plenty of modern android devices can use standard USB audio hardware. You just need an OTG cable, and the kind of USB audio output device that doesn't need a specialized driver under Windows or Linux. I've hooked up many different USB audio dongles you my Galaxy S3 and S4. The S4 wouldn't charge while hooked through the particular OTG cable, but the S3 does. As a matter of fact, I've been using it as the media player in my car for years.
Admittedly, I've only used the optical out on some of my devices occasionally, but I imagine it would still work for most.
Update: Not all supposed "OTG" cables work. This is the one I bought in Jan 2014 that works for both audio and charging on my S3 with CyanogenMod 11: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YPYORM/
Today I received an Android 6.0 Head Unit from A-Sure for an Audi A3. I connected a Terratec Aureon Dual USB DAC. I got sound, but couldn't control the volume. Changing the android system volume had no effect.
I am considering spending a couple of bucks on the app "USB Audio Player PRO" and test it again. If this doesn't work, i will have to return the unit.
Greetings from Germany
So i had to return the Head Unit. I tried a different one by "Skandinav", with this one there was no sound at all from the USB DAC
retlaps said:
Today I received an Android 6.0 Head Unit from A-Sure for an Audi A3. I connected a Terratec Aureon Dual USB DAC. I got sound, but couldn't control the volume. Changing the android system volume had no effect.
I am considering spending a couple of bucks on the app "USB Audio Player PRO" and test it again. If this doesn't work, i will have to return the unit.
Greetings from Germany
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
You need to connect to DAC with digital volume control like Helix DSP Pro
Greetings from Singapore
daviestar said:
(sorry I can't post any links, but you can google the words in bold)
Are there any Android head units that support optical audio out?
I've been researching the last few nights (hours!) for a WIRED way to get a toslink optical cable to a Audison Prima AP8.9 Amp/DSP.
Are there any electrical engineers out there who have thought about bypassing the onboard DAC to get digital output?
Or.... is my only option to provide <96kHz optical audio to get an AptX lossless Bluetooth receiver like the Neet AptX lossless bluetooth receiver. Can anyone share experience on how well the Android units perform constantly connected to a BT receiver for all car audio? Esp. if you have the new Pumpkins with the Parrot BT card, in case that improves things.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you can connect to the DAC, thereby outputting digital audio from applications and transport flash drive.
this can be done not only with android devices, but also with conventional tape recorder, some installations you can look at my YouTube channel
unfortunately links for new users are forbidden, you can search by my nickname - "jonjonni toslink Евгений Фещенко"
daviestar said:
(sorry I can't post any links, but you can google the words in bold)
Are there any Android head units that support optical audio out?
I've been researching the last few nights (hours!) for a WIRED way to get a toslink optical cable to a Audison Prima AP8.9 Amp/DSP.
Are there any electrical engineers out there who have thought about bypassing the onboard DAC to get digital output?
Or.... is my only option to provide <96kHz optical audio to get an AptX lossless Bluetooth receiver like the Neet AptX lossless bluetooth receiver. Can anyone share experience on how well the Android units perform constantly connected to a BT receiver for all car audio? Esp. if you have the new Pumpkins with the Parrot BT card, in case that improves things.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, don't fall into this hole. (warning to new users)
I have the Prima dac/amp, and the sound is amazing, and it can be connected to an Android phone via OTG to Toslink adapter, or via Bluetooth adapter with Toslink out, but it has one very nasty issue: when the amp is starting, and there is no Toslink signal, it won't register the connection. So if you later connect your phone, you have to cycle through the input sources Digital->Aux->Master->Digital to again register your connection.
So unless you connect your phone or turn on your BT receiver _before_ you start the car up, you will need to fiddle with cycling the source (while also driving the car). (That is if you also have the optional control unit with a display.)
Why they designed the device this way is just beyond me.
I hope its all right to join an old discussion.
I have a similar problem, I want to connect an android head unit in my car to an external digital amplifier. The amplifier itself have SPDIF input (mosconi GALDEN Pico 12 channels https://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-pico-812-dsp/) but I can't find an android head unit running Android 10 with SPDIF output for my car. I've found converting card USB->SPIDF (for example: https://www.amazon.com/Douk-Audio-C...1&keywords=usb+to+spdif&qid=1617899902&sr=8-3) but I still missing some points:
-In Android 10, how do I switch all audio outputs to the converting card? Is it a part of the Android or external application?
-What happen when playing multi channel media (such as 5.1)? does each channel transfer on each on?
-Is it possible to use the same method to BT? The Pico have an optional BT card.
Thanks in advance, Haim
haim_gds said:
-In Android 10, how do I switch all audio outputs to the converting card? Is it a part of the Android or external application?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Android usually automatically switches to USB audio when found, but many implementations do not. Sometimes there's a setting in the developer menu for prioritizing USB audio, but sometimes that doesn't do anything.
USB audio of any kind is not supported on my Sony X800D Android TV.
haim_gds said:
-What happen when playing multi channel media (such as 5.1)? does each channel transfer on each on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multichannel USB sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't. Certainly it can work, such as on many Android TV implementations like NVIDIA shield.
haim_gds said:
-Is it possible to use the same method to BT? The Pico have an optional BT card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multichannel Bluetooth is not a standard, although some implementations like enhanced aptX can support it.
Have you also considered that SPDIF surround is always encoded, and thus is output at a fixed volume? Your head unit would not be able to control the volume; it would have to be done after decoding, like at the power amplifier stage.
MarkerB said:
Android usually automatically switches to USB audio when found, but many implementations do not. Sometimes there's a setting in the developer menu for prioritizing USB audio, but sometimes that doesn't do anything.
USB audio of any kind is not supported on my Sony X800D Android TV.
Multichannel USB sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't. Certainly it can work, such as on many Android TV implementations like NVIDIA shield.
Multichannel Bluetooth is not a standard, although some implementations like enhanced aptX can support it.
Have you also considered that SPDIF surround is always encoded, and thus is output at a fixed volume? Your head unit would not be able to control the volume; it would have to be done after decoding, like at the power amplifier stage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of if it's possible to allow the headunits to play higher than 48khz resolution through the optical or coax outputs ?
dfal47 said:
Do you know of if it's possible to allow the headunits to play higher than 48khz resolution through the optical or coax outputs ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have to ask - what
marchnz said:
Have to ask - what
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The unit forces 24b 48khz audio, coaxial can output 192khz tracks and optical upto 96khz . Higher resolution audio output.
Neutron or UAPP will allow higher resolution, but you'll probably lose Navi directions as those programs bypass the android audio layer and mixer.
Basically you need a high resolution non- Android media player, with a navi input and mixer, that also has an spdif output.
The Alpine UTX-A09 looks like it can do that, assuming it isn't Android based /doesn't force 16/48 output from all sources when the mixer is enabled (in non "Alpine Direct" mode). Looks like the Alpine pxe-x09 has a mixer, so it should also be able to mix in navigation instructions.
Some of the Helix DSPs may mix or prioritize different inputs - the documentation isn't clear.
If you use spdif connection vs optical you run the risk of creating a ground loop unless the source is floating ie running on its battery power.
You can blow out all your high frequency drivers in a second if the ground loop creates feedback oscillations.
A common ground point may or may not prevent it. Using toslink to couple eliminates this potential issue.
For car hookups best practice to use heavy gauge wire for positive* feed, preferably coming directly from the battery for high wattage amps, source auxiliary equipment from the same end point. Do not daisy chain.
Same is true with home hifi, avoid using spdif cables to couple amps, preamps, receivers, cable boxes, etc. Amps, recievers are designed to be floating and not connected to ground. Do mix earth grounded and floating equipment unless connected by toslink only ie a tower PC with a 3 prong plug and a reciever (2 prong plug, floating).
*if you use a chassis grounding point, use only one and do not daisy chain!
dfal47 said:
Do you know of if it's possible to allow the headunits to play higher than 48khz resolution through the optical or coax outputs ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the delay.
DTS has had 96kHz/24 bit for many years, and they work through any SPDIF interface... as you wanted. They don't actually change the hardware interface speed, but rather encode the extra data into the sales 48kHz stream.
I've never bothered to encode anything with it, because I'm guessing it actually makes compression worse. You're squeezing much more data through the same early 90s compression algorithm, and DTS is already lossy enough. Factor-in that higher sample rates are not detectable in blind tests, and it just seems like a bad idea.
Hmm... Unless the 96kHz/24 bit extension algorithm is much more efficient at compression, considering it was introduced much later than the base DTS algorithms in 1991, and may have leveraged more recent technologies. In that case, it would definitely be the better choice. Unfortunately, I haven't read anything about this possibility.
Good reading on the 96kHz/24 bit topic:
DTS (company) - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
Get the Rundown on the DTS 96/24 Audio Format
DTS 96/24 is part of the DTS family of audio formats but it's rather rare since the advent of Blu-ray Disc.
www.lifewire.com
Bumping an old, but good, thread. I have exactly the same amp (well, the 5.9), and an Android unit with a TOSlink port - but it seems to be turned off as I can’t see any light coming from the TOSlink cable. Any idea how to turn it on?
I have a FiiO as a backup but prefer not to do SPDIF because I need another device for the Audison to take SPDIF input …
MarkerB said:
Sorry for the delay.
DTS has had 96kHz/24 bit for many years, and they work through any SPDIF interface... as you wanted. They don't actually change the hardware interface speed, but rather encode the extra data into the sales 48kHz stream.
I've never bothered to encode anything with it, because I'm guessing it actually makes compression worse. You're squeezing much more data through the same early 90s compression algorithm, and DTS is already lossy enough. Factor-in that higher sample rates are not detectable in blind tests, and it just seems like a bad idea.
Hmm... Unless the 96kHz/24 bit extension algorithm is much more efficient at compression, considering it was introduced much later than the base DTS algorithms in 1991, and may have leveraged more recent technologies. In that case, it would definitely be the better choice. Unfortunately, I haven't read anything about this possibility.
Good reading on the 96kHz/24 bit topic:
DTS (company) - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
Get the Rundown on the DTS 96/24 Audio Format
DTS 96/24 is part of the DTS family of audio formats but it's rather rare since the advent of Blu-ray Disc.
www.lifewire.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Toslink can support 24 bit/192 khz.
Optical coupling is preferred as it carries no risk of creating ground loops; optical isolation.
A ground loop can smoke (literally) all your tweeters and maybe the power amp in a second.
blackhawk said:
Toslink can support 24 bit/192 khz.
Optical coupling is preferred as it carries no risk of creating ground loops; optical isolation.
A ground loop can smoke (literally) all your tweeters and maybe the power amp in a second.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you accidentally replied to the wrong post. My topic was about the quality of the DTS 96kHz/24 bit encode, which is completely independent of which of the two physical SPDIF interfaces is used.
I've been searching for an Android replacement head unit to my current Kenwood DNX525DAB.
One good thing with the Kenwood was the ability to play video to an external screen at the back of the car and continue using the satnav on the main screen. The video's audio could also be played from the rear speakers whilst (e.g.) playing radio from the front speakers.
I've messaged via Aliexpress if any Joying type units have this capability but the language barrier is a problem.
Can anybody say whether this is possible mechanically or with extra software installed with any android unit?
From my research, assuming that you have dual zones installed in your vehicle (separate monitors/separate speakers for the rear passengers) via the RCA A/V outputs:
For audio and video sources that are native to the head unit via the android OS such as music/mp3s, videos, streaming services, and other android apps; you can only display and play that media to the main zone (aka your main android screen and your main connected speakers). You CAN NOT output the audio/video from apps to your secondary zone.
The only audio/video you are able to display to your secondary zone (that are connected via the analog RCA A/V out) is from the analog RCA A/V inputs from the back of the head unit or the physical DVD player in the head unit.
What this basically means is that if you want your rear passengers to be able to stream, play music, play videos, etc independently from your main head unit, you need to plug in a device that can do all of that separately via the analog RCA inputs. (or their only media source will be the physical DVD player). I've seen other people plug in other android boxes that have RCA outs to the back of the head unit for their rear passengers to control.