Related
So I has some free time and the shift was laying around...
Anyway let's get down to business.
The first part of the guide will cover the basic disassembly tips you maybe need in order to open up the casing and maybe upgrade something.
You will need a T6 screwdriver. That's all..but if you want to disassemble the display you will also need a T5.
1 Start by removing the battery, stylus, any card, sim or whatever is attached onto your device.
2 The shift's screws location is shown here.
3 You will need to remove the 3 rubber caps in order to expose the upper screws. First I thought the middle one is a connector to an external antenna. Nope, it's a screw hole.
4 After you're done with the screws you will need to remove the keyboard in order to have acces to another screw underneath it. I've found out that removing the keyboard is a bit tricky. There are no screws holding it, you simply must pull it off. Carefull not to bend it too much and begin with the upper part.
5. Underneath the keyboard you will have to remove this screw and the ribbon like cable that connects the keyboard. In order to do this, pull upwards the white blocker (shown with the green arrow) then pull off the ribbon cable (red arrow).
6. Next comes the first ugly part. You should remove the back cover on your shift in order to expose it's motherboard. Begin by placing your fingernail on the right bottom corner (or the left - you choose) and go along all the cassing in order to separate the 2 pieces of casing. You may hear a lot of ugly noises, cracks and so on... it's pretty normal, just don't abuse the casing too much. By the way, keep the shift in "laptop" mode while you do this.
7. After you remove the back cover you should see something like this.
Carefull with the hard disk. There aren't any screws fixing it to the motherboard. It's simply ...placed there, the back cover will fix it back to it's position. Don't tilt the device or the hard disk may fall and could damage the connector cable (orange ribbon). Around the hard drive you may see a black rubber insertion that protects it from certain shocks.
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
The silver corner and the whole sides of the rubber casing is about 2-3 mm thick in the upper portion and just about the same underneath the hard disk. It's kind of soft thus you may insert a larger hard drive without problems.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
8 Next you will need to remove the aluminium radiator and the fan.
You have to remove the following screws:
Note that the far right screw is somewhere deeper and you may need to move the hard-drive a little to get acces to it.
9 After you remove the aluminium heatsync you should see something like this. If you want to remove the motherboard from the chassis you should also remove the marked screw.
You may remove the ram board but carefull. It seems pretty stuck in there you will need to use some force. Here's a photo with mine removed. The metallic piece in the lower part of the picture is the card reader's casing. The card reader is made by Panasonic.
In order to remove the card reader first unscrew it (it's the last screw i was talking about 2 pictures ago). There is a ribbon connecting it to the mainboard.
here is the card reader removed:
and here is it's ribbon connector:
Here is the GPS antenna. YEP it is here. I've seen simillar antennas on bluetooth GPS mouses. This one is properly connected and seems to be powered. HTC had some GPS in mind when it designed the Shift.
10 In order to continue the disassembly you must remove 2 screws located somewhere around this area. They are under the ribbon cable connecting the hard drive to the motherboard.
Be carefull around that area. The shift's motherboard is made of 2 pieces, apparently one for the x86 side (intel processor, GMA950 video, card reader etc) and another for the WM side. The 2 parts are linked via a connector that is secured by those 2 screws. YOU WILL NEED TO BE CAREFULL WHEN REASSEMBLING THE SHIFT. IF THAT CONNECTOR ISN'T ATTACHED PROPERLY YOU'RE IN FOR A LOT OF TROUBLE AHEAD (had mine... trust me).
Here are various components.
RED - Display side connector. This is the only connector linking the 2 sides.
BLUE - Keyboard connector.
GREEN - underneath that area lies the connector that links the 2 parts of the motherboard.
YELLOW - those cables go to the wireless antenna.
Here is the Shift's internal microphone. Like I've said, i didn't know it had one.
The mic is linked to the generic "WM side" of the motherboard. Actually it isn't that simple like wm side - x86 side but as I can see these 2 parts seem to be pretty well diferenciated. One side - x86 - heatsyncs, ram, hard drive... another side - WM, aluminium caps soldered over the chips (like in most phones) microphone, gsm/gps antenna. The WLAN module is also located there.
11 If you remove the motherboard you should see something like this. The arrow marks the position of the antenna block (like the one shown in the FCC pictures).
If you want to remove the display part from the rest of the body you have to remove these screws:
2 more of these are located on the left side. Also remove them. Then the display should come out easily. Carefull not to damage the ribbon connector.
.
12 If you want to dissasemble the display you have to remove the screws from it's back plate. It should also come out easily. You should see something like this:
The hinges that enable your display to tilt are located inside the display block. Here's a photo with one of them :
now some tips about how to do this process if you want to upgrade the shift.
BE CAREFULL. The Shift's motherboard seems pretty delicate. If you want to mess with the hard drive, first disconnect the cable from the HDD's end, then from the motherboard.
If you want to remove the RAM board, pull it off by using 2 fingers, 1 for each side. You will find that the module is firmly attached and woun't come out easily.
I don't recomand you remove or try to mess with that silver foil over the display's back (one of the last pictures). There's a jungle of connectors and wires underneath it and they are cought between 2 layers of that stuff. They can be easily damaged.
When reassembling the shift first start by connecting the small ribbon from the microfone to the motheboard, then connect the display's cable. You will find it more easily to maneuvre if the display is at halfway distance from the main body. Then connect the 2 screws that secure the connector between the 2 portions of the motherboard. ONCE AGAIN, CAREFULL TO HAVE THESE 2 SCREWS FIRMLY ATTACHED. In my first try, the connection wasn't good so when i powered on the shift, it started to make some scarry stuff with it's leds and display. No harm been done but it was pretty scarry. You may then reattach the rest of the screws in backwards order.
If you will want only to upgrade the HDD just stop at "removing the back cover" part. There's nothing more you need to do, you don't need to remove the motherboard and there's pretty much no risks involved. Just be carefull with the ribbon linking the HDD to the motherboard.
I heard some advices about some serials on the chips and such data. Yep, I did photos of these things too. I'll attach them also, tomorrow after I organise my list of findings and notes that I've made with those. I'll post them by category. However I didn't find much, most chips are imposible to read because of the faded markings and other ones are covered by aluminium caps that are soldered over them. The shift looks like a large phone.
Please ask questions if you have. I'll try to help and be specific on those topics.
Bravo!! Good job!!! Can't wait to see the remaining! Now we need someone to try upgrading the HHD. This is getting more interesting!
Excellent, thanks for sharing your findings.
Really good job, man!
Really good job! Thank you for this "step-by-step" guide!
now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action
Ok people, I'm willing to order a larger HD and even more RAM. I'm going to contact some of my sources on Monday or Tuesday. Any help you guys can provide would be great.
EDIT: Great job on the how-to here!!!
Pawel062 said:
now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's try this on Sunday afternoon bro if you're availabe. I also have a tool that i'm going to try to run, if the family allows, and provide results. Get with me sometime after 3pm. I'm headed to bed now...nite all.
Can you give some information about touchscreen model or manufactur???
I must first study how the protective silver film is attacked on the back of the display. from the fcc photos it seems there are a lot of ribbon connectors between it's twin layers. first time i've dissasembled shift i didn't have enought guts to rip that film in order to expose the internal components. Some connectors in that area caused me a lot of problems (shift's display didn't light up at all or the led's started to go crazy). I'll investigate the problem and there will be a second shift disassembly session in which time i wish to upgrade the hdd also.
So, where might we solder our 32GB SD card to the WM side?
Great job!
Keyboard
Hello,
I tried to pull out the KEyboard by it doesn't work.
What is the Secret to get it out ?
i've sent you an email.
facdemol said:
i've sent you an email.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the Email, I'll try it on Monday and let you know if it work.
Andi
Possible Mistake If You Choose A 2,5 Hhd For Shift Original Hdd.
facdemol said:
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks to everybody for the help to dissasenble.
Im sorry, It´s clear is not possible.
I'd attach a Picture of my shift with a 1.8 + 2,5" hdd.
---------------------------- -----------------------------
Please, don´t buy ANY HDD 2,5" Noone will fit in.
Is necesary a 1.8" HDD AND the conector of the HDD MUST BE a kind of ZIF connector. (They Called "LIF")
(Neither there are COMPATIBILITY with IDE/ATA/SATA connectors. You will need a ATA 7 conector!!!)
I found this kind HDDs in 80, 100 and 120 GB capacity, easy to buy ad least in Spain.
For Myself I'd ordered a Toshiba-MK1214GAH (120GB), where I Plan to Install a Personal Ed. XP + Vista in a second partition.
Armas.
I am looking for a desktop cradle that will hold the Tilt upright that charges and has 3.5mm out on it.
google and you'll find
Hi :
how about this cradle
http://www.boxwave.com/products/desktopcradle/htc-kaiser-desktop-cradle_2642.htm
2 out of 3 is good, but no dice. There is no 3.5mm out.
just buy a 3 in 1 to plug into the back of that charger and job done
Well, you could always use a standard Arkon windshield mount except mount it on your desktop. Then run the multiplug out of the bottom.
I would also think about two other options....
One, contact boxwave... they are pretty good about stuff like this...
Two, spend your money instead on a pair of Motorola S9 bluetooth headphones and listen to your Tilt via bluetooth... with the added benny of being able to answer your phone when it rings.
If you can get the site to work, Seidio online has one that I think will fit your need. Sync/charging plug and a 3.5 mm audio plug. I think it's US$29.95.
www.seidioonline.com
trainman said:
If you can get the site to work, Seidio online has one that I think will fit your need. Sync/charging plug and a 3.5 mm audio plug. I think it's US$29.95. www.seidioonline.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried the one from Seido and returned it. It is a generic base that is supposed to work for multiple phones and my Tilt did not sit in it well. The bottom left side of my phone did not touch the base when the phone was vertical in the charger so unless I put something under it to fill the gap the phone would Tilt to the left probably bending the USB connection.
That's good to know, I was contemplating one. I think now I will take my 3-in-one USB connector and some modeling compound and create my own.
Fund with arts and crafts. I'll let you know how it goes.
I am using the same 3 in 1 like this one >>>http://www.boxwave.com/products/desktopcradle/htc-kaiser-desktop-cradle_2642.htm
I found it on ebay with a battery for less $$ about 6 months ago.
I saw that too, the difficulty I run into is that I use a form fitting case with a belt clip stud on the back. That means that all of the "device only" cradles, like what was in the prior message, won't work. I was thinking about the Seidio because it allowed for a skin case. Now that I hear it isnt very useful, I must consider other alternatives. Has anyone had success with the Seidio cradle?
Like I mentioned, my other alternative is to make my own by form fitting some sort of modeling compound around my Kaiser with case, then embedding the 3-in-1 cable in the compound at the right angle to fit the connector, then forming it to the correct angle. Sounds like a weekend project, now I just need to find the right material to do so. Hmmmmm.
I used a pixi charging back case (5.99usd) and touchstone charging base (9.99usd) to create this mod. You can find them on clearance at radioshack!
Can be made for other devices: ipods, iphones, bluetooth headset, etc...
Comment plz.
-Carnivore
Maybe some photos and more descriptions?
Im curious how this looks/working.
sure interesting, and most valuable as a proof-of-concept realization, even if I'de never go out with a setup like that
Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc
Nice
Yeah it looks nice but i don't think anybody is siriously going to use this do you??
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
Anyways nice work. Good that people are trying to improve the phones usability.
keesmathot said:
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oh I bet he's had a lot of fun doing it That alone is more than enough of a reason
I tried doing something like this a little while back, the connectors next to the sim card can be used for charging which would make the whole thing much nicer and easier, it worked good, but the HD2 metal door blocked the signal so it would not charge, so I used it with a sillicon case on top, it was good but not the best, then I tried to hard wire it inside, opened the HD2, it got few dust specs behind the LCD from opening, I tried blowing them away and the whole screen died, well it was a sad story which eventually ended up on ebay, and I had to get a different one I WILL NOT TRY THIS AGAIN, i hope.
thats good of you to try. hope you find a compatible plastic back for it or some other solution.
ill be looking forward to your progress on this as i have a palm pre and an extra touchstone charger.
RedWave31 said:
Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?
Carnivore9 said:
The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.
lude219 said:
they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually was fooling around with a microusb charging head and found that if you ground one of the data wires, the navpanel will show up. I was a little confused at first since I've never used it before then figured out it was a hidden feature.
At first my Fire wouldn't charge unless it was placed in a particular way, then it stopped altogether. I pronounced it dead, and left it stowed away for a few months, but then decided to try and fix it. I think this guide may be useful for anyone who wants to fix a kindle with dead charging. Note that you may damage your kindle in the process so if you are still under warranty, use it.
1. Take off the back cover. You may need to use a guitar pick or something similar.
2. Take off the two battery leads. One has a locking mechanism which needs to be lifted before the ribbon cable can be taken out.
3. Take out all screws connected motherboard to rest of device. There are connections underneath the board so be careful when lifting it.
4. When I lifted it, I found the USB connector had broken off the entire board (if it was even attached in the first place) and this was obviously causing the problems, as the USB connector could now only connect to the motherboard if pressure was applied so that it was being held on somehow by it. To fix this, I could have tried to solder the tiny USB connections onto the board, but instead I used a different way which is working perfectly for many weeks now.
5. Get a rubber band and tie a not in it numerous times until the knot is about 3-4mm thick. Cut off remaining rubber band and superglue the knot onto the bottom side of the USB connector (the side that faces the display when assembled). Then insert the USB connector into it's little holder under the board, with the rubber band firm beneath it and replace the motherboard. Redo all the screws, reconnect any connectors you've disconnected (you may have had to disconnect some to remove/move the motherboard - always undo battery cables before you work on the innards of any device).
6. If you've done this correctly, the round rubber band knot should press the USB connector continuously on to the board. Test using your stock charger before you put it back together because the back cover is pretty hard to get off.
7. Replace the back cover and enjoy!
Notes: My rubber band knot was actually a little too large, which meant that to connect the USB plug I had to press the kindle together to insert the cable, but charging is reliable and working so far, so I'm happy about that.
How about using E-Tape instead of a rubber band?
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda app-developers app
The reason I used rubber band was because it pushed the connector against the severed contacts on the board. I doubt that simply sticking it on with any sort of tape would work as effectively.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda app-developers app
Do you know how to solder? I fixed mine that way.
Sent from my kindle fire
Anthony96922 said:
Do you know how to solder? I fixed mine that way.
Sent from my kindle fire
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, but I am away from home at the moment so I didn't have access to one.
Thanks for posting this at this time! I am currently doing an engineering fair and bought a soldering iron for it. I will try the rubber band way and then try solder if it doesn't work. Thanks again!
Vlasp said:
Thanks for posting this at this time! I am currently doing an engineering fair and bought a soldering iron for it. I will try the rubber band way and then try solder if it doesn't work. Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem! Glad to be a help
Can you take a picture?
So, I have this kfire that didn't charge very well and the usb connection with the PC needed a lot of fiddling around, when I got an n7 charger it charged perfectly, maybe the kfire charger is defective.
Ill try to get a picture later.
Sometimes the charger is the problem so make sure you check that first before you open up your fire.
Sent from my nuclear powered toaster.
jji7skyline said:
Ill try to get a picture later.
Sometimes the charger is the problem so make sure you check that first before you open up your fire.
Sent from my nuclear powered toaster.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Attempting this now. Do you have any pictures?
Bump for noobs and others.
Can you post a picture of the rubber band and that other think together I don't get what your saying are you saying tie the rubber band it is that measurement you told is to be and but it under that other thing so it pushes against the motherboard and forces it to be there can you please explain that part a little more explaining please thanks
In my old Toyota FJ Cruiser I used a Nexus 7 tablet running AUX into a single DIN radio that was hidden behind it. The setup worked well but it was a little busy.
For my new (old) 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport, I thought I'd have to get a different tablet because of the 1.5 DIN size. I didn't want to cut into my entire dash and mold a cradle for a DDIN (I'm much better at computer stuff than that). Holding the Nexus 7 up to the dash, the bottom Navigation bar and top status bar were cut off. So, I bought a smaller tablet (Xperia Z Ultra) but it wasn't anywhere near as capable for an audio setup as the Nexus 7 tablets are; I ended up returning it. I then had an epiphany, why not just decrease the portion of the screen that's usable on the Nexus 7 so it fits a 1.5 DIN opening.
Download a terminal emulator app for the tablet and make sure you have root. Apply these codes via the app to decrease the vertical dimensions of the N7's screen to fit 1.5 DIN:
Code:
su
Code:
wm size 980x1920
Code:
wm density 260
This makes the tablet go from this
to this
.
After you enter the wm size, you will probably lose the nav and status bars. Don't worry, it's because of the density. Just type in the wm density code after that to get them back. If you're going for different dimensions, mess with the density by entering a low number and then increasing it by 5 until you find the sweet spot. At some point you'll lose the nav/status bars so you know to back down to the density right before that one.
To get back the original screen dimensions/density, input:
Code:
wm size reset
Code:
wm density reset
The screen dimensions and density changes do remain even after rebooting, so you only have to enter it once.
From here, these are the products I used for my setup:
$29.95 - Nitro Bmw-x43 300 Watt 4 Channel Car Amplifier (don't need a bumping sound system so this is plenty for me)
$38.61 - Fusion MS-BT100 Bluetooth Dongle for Fusion Marine Stereo Head Units
$2.69 x 2 - DB Link Double Shielded Competition Series CLY2MZ 2 Male To 1 Female RCA Y Adapter
$5.96 - Car Charger Power Cigarette Lighter Female Socket Black w 26cm Cable
$9.99 - PowerGen 4.2Amps / 20W Dual USB Car charger Designed for Apple and Android Devices
$7.99 - Super Strong Neodymium Disc Craft Magnets 1/4 X 1/16 Inch N42 (Set of 100)
Tap the amp, bluetooth adapter, and cigarette lighter socket into the ignition, so it receives power when the ignition is on and doesn't when it's off. From there, plug the USB charger into the socket. One USB cable will power the tablet and the other will power the wireless charger.
Take the neodymium magnets
, tear down a wireless charger, and add them to the coil
.
Make a vinyl template for the size of the ashtray
and plastidip it black
(it sits flush now, in this image I layed it over the top of the ashtray). I taped the wireless charger to the underside of the vinyl template using super strong Gorilla Glue duct tape.
From here, make a 1/4" piece of wood that's wide enough to screw into the slots the factory radio screwed into
. I taped one side down because the tablet was sitting over that screw.
Double side sticky tape the tablet (either directly or using a case) onto the wood
. You'll probably need to do it a few times to get the dash to line up correctly.
Remove the center console, pop out the ash tray, and run the USB cable to the wireless charger+vinyl. I then used some super glue to glue it into the slot.
.
Check the video at the top to see everything working.
Nicely done!
Good job on the install.
You should paste the third post from the Cherokee forum build thread into the first post here. There is a lot of good info there.
JetskiMark said:
Good job on the install.
You should paste the third post from the Cherokee forum build thread into the first post here. There is a lot of good info there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey man! Good call, doing that now.
This is still working flawlessly, wireless charging and all. Going to update to lollipop this week and clean flash, because tablet is starting to slow down a bit.
Hi Dimex,
Great build!! I'm trying something similar with a MediaPad X2 in my old Range Rover Sport using a BMW CIC housing. The problem I have is when changing the resolution the screen shrinks from top and bottom. Is there a way to make it shrink from the bottom only so it remains flush to the top as l have limited space above the tablet to house it??
Thanks in advance
Cheers
Guy