Dear all,
I've performed an exhaustive search all over internet and in particular in XDA developers site and I could not find any information.
First some background just for info:
We are an amateur group that launches high altitude balloons to the stratosphere. There we take photos, videos, we measure temperatures, accelerations, pressure... (I guess it is quite known the HAB activities). Apart from other equipment’s (arduino based) and payloads, we always send an android phone as a recovery system as we can send an sms to the phone to ask its gps location. We also takes some photos during the flight with the phone camera and record GPS, the accelerometer and gyro data.
We would like to save some mass (to reach higher altitude) so we are thinking to launch only the motherboard and the battery. I have tested it with my galaxy S2: I opened it, extracted only motherboard (usb included) and battery (with no screen at all) and I could switch on, and operate it through MHL (hdmi) and a bluetooth mouse.
So we decided to buy a second hand galaxy note 3 (better camera resolution, battery, more sensors...) with a broken screen as no needed.
The note 3 works perfect with the screen attached again via mhl (even though the screen was not working). BUT when I remove the screen, the phone cannot be switched on... it enters and endless bootloop.
I guess that this is because the boot process checks somehow the presence of the screen.
Now the real question:
Do you know if there is any method to use the phone without the digitizer plugged?
Maybe replacing or reconfiguring the boot/kernel/rom to avoid the screen check? No problems at all with voiding the warranty (is a destroyed second hand device) or rooting, or flashing...
Many thanks!
Blunder
p.s. Sorry for my bad English
blunderbrain said:
Dear all,
...
Now the real question:
Do you know if there is any method to use the phone without the digitizer plugged?
Maybe replacing or reconfiguring the boot/kernel/rom to avoid the screen check? No problems at all with voiding the warranty (is a destroyed second hand device) or rooting, or flashing...
Many thanks!
Blunder
p.s. Sorry for my bad English
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this is not what you are asking (which is interesting in itself) but why don't you leave the digitizer plugged? It should be like just 1mm or so, and only a few grams.
Maybe this is unclean workaround: how about let the phone completely booted and remove the digitizer?
I would suggest disabling the digitizer and/or display in a custom kernel build first -- if you can get the device to still boot fully, you can try removing the hardware connections. If it doesn't boot, then you need to figure out what in the OS relies on these features.
I know this is not what you are asking (which is interesting in itself) but why don't you leave the digitizer plugged? It should be like just 1mm or so, and only a few grams.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks xclub101
Our workaround is indeed that one, to remove everything appart from the digitizer (frame, glass, wacom...). But we also thinking in volume reduction that also impacts weight. Considering that we are tipically launching 500g, 50g is 10% that in terms of balloon ceiling could be 3 or 4 km (not that much, but in any case above our actual limits).
In any case, I do not want to diverge from the original question. That is to use the phone without the digitizer.
Maybe this is unclean workaround: how about let the phone completely booted and remove the digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Crescendo
Yes, it could be a solution, I will try to do it. However, once integrated within the payload, it could be not so easy to remove it.
And what would happen if there is a reboot during the flight? (sometimes it happens, mainly due to failures in the battery as a consequence of the cold temperatures up there, almost reaching -50ºC). Then the phone wont boot again
I would suggest disabling the digitizer and/or display in a custom kernel build first -- if you can get the device to still boot fully, you can try removing the hardware connections. If it doesn't boot, then you need to figure out what in the OS relies on these features.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks jisoo
Sounds a good solution, but I'm not an expert in kernel customization, nor cooking... If you (or any other) could guide me in how to do it I could try.
Thanks again
Related
Hello
I bought mine Vario II (with CoPilot) just 8 days ago, so I've enjoyed it quite a lot for the past days
yet .. ~30 hours ago I found out that the touch screen was not responding at all .. well restart did not help, getting the battery out and putting it back again didn't help too ... I tried to do EVERYTHING with the thing ... starting with restoring factory settings (all the data! ) , ending with browsing the forums for common failures ...
Finally I ended up with the very start page where the Vario II asks for tapping the screen (irony huh ?) to start setting it up ..
Since I was not able to make it work again (the whole thing seemed to be working fine ... just the touch screen ... ) so I brought it to the local T-Mobile shop today in the morning.. guess what, the guy at the shop just removed the battery and put it back again (I've done that XXX times during the night) AND IT STARTED WORKING again ... I couldn't understand anything there, felt really lame
anyway after I've left the shop and used it for quite a bit it started again .. now I've kind of figured it out .. when I'm using the device actively (the temp raises) and it starts at the top right corner of the screen .. the touch screen just flickers there and then after a minute or so it doesn't respond at all any more .. if I just put it away and don't use it - the screen responds again after some time ...
NOW finally the question is: has anyone had any problems with Vario II like I do? I ought to think that it is a somewhat faulty device that I've got (it hasn't been physically damaged)
PS the touch-screen gets stagnant faster with bigger programs (CoPilot, Skype, etc...) and it takes some time to get stuck with just using the phone...
btw I've put a temperature thingy in the device - it shows that the battery temp is at 42 C . Isn't that a bit too much ?
yeah and how do I figure out what version it is ? I mean the S/N that is mentioned here ( http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Hermes_Problems )
?
wundis said:
anyway after I've left the shop and used it for quite a bit it started again .. now I've kind of figured it out .. when I'm using the device actively (the temp raises) and it starts at the top right corner of the screen .. the touch screen just flickers there and then after a minute or so it doesn't respond at all any more .. if I just put it away and don't use it - the screen responds again after some time ...
NOW finally the question is: has anyone had any problems with Vario II like I do? I ought to think that it is a somewhat faulty device that I've got (it hasn't been physically damaged)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, one of my Hermes' had the exact same problem - touch screen malfunction starting at the upper right corner when temperature rose. The usual tricks to solve the screen alignment problem (loosening the screws, removing the gasket with a stripe of a business card) didn't help at all. I returned the device and got a new one.
yeah and how do I figure out what version it is ? I mean the S/N that is mentioned here ( http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Hermes_Problems )
?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's printed on the box (at least of an O2 Trion) and on the sticker underneath the battery. Just look for the S/N starting with HTC6xx... but "our" defect is not the normal SA problem, it seems to be much rarer and not described in the Wiki.
Cheers
Daniel
Thank you so much for the answer Daniel, I'll get them to change it tomorrow.
I have exactly the same problem with my TyTN. In the morning, after the phone has been off all night, the touchscreen works for maybe 30mins, then the phone warms up and the screen ceases functioning. Bizarre though - I got the phone about two weeks ago - the screen worked fine (i.e. under all temp. conditions) for about 7 days, then it decided to crap out. Tried all the usual SA type solutions - as you guys noted above they didn't work. Gonna have to go back to the shop and get it replaced :-(
Oh, nearly forgot, s/n is HT632
One other thing I noticed (not sure if this is normal behavior or if it started after the touchscreen borked) - When the phone is active (i.e. not locked or in standby,) the top status leds (wifi, bluetooth, gsm) don't flash. Once the device is put in standby (i.e. tapping the power button) they start flashing again. Like I said, not sure if this is normal or if its related to the touchscreen going.
Vrobenmat said:
One other thing I noticed (not sure if this is normal behavior or if it started after the touchscreen borked) - When the phone is active (i.e. not locked or in standby,) the top status leds (wifi, bluetooth, gsm) don't flash.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is definitely not normal. But it's an interesting observation. If the TyTN were a car, I'd say there's a bad ground connection somewhere.
Try a hard reset, and if that doesn't solve the problem, have it exchanged. (I very much doubt that a hard reset will help, but at least here customer service refuses to exchange a device before you tried a hard reset. )
Cheers
Daniel
Hard reset borked even more. Could't get past the touch screen calibration. Phone is now in the freezer to cool down - hopefully the touch screen will work long enough so I can get past the calibration
*EDIT* Just got it out the freezer (nice and cold now.) Hard reset, got through the calibration, everything ok for about 10 mins. LED's flashing with backlight on and touchscreen working. Then - touchscreen non-responsive at exactly the same time the status LED's cut out. I'm hypothesising that there's some kind of electrical short between the circuitry for the touchpad and the status LED's - it shorts as the devices temperature rises and (i guess) some of the materials expand and come into contact with each other. Since I don't want to void my warranty in case I have to take the phone back to the store, I haven't opened it up to confirm this. Has anyone had a detailed look at the connections at the top of the screen and around the status LED's to see if my explanation is at least possible? (then I might open it up and see if I can insulate the connections.)
tadzio said:
Yes, one of my Hermes' had the exact same problem - touch screen malfunction starting at the upper right corner when temperature rose. The usual tricks to solve the screen alignment problem (loosening the screws, removing the gasket with a stripe of a business card) didn't help at all. I returned the device and got a new one.
It's printed on the box (at least of an O2 Trion) and on the sticker underneath the battery. Just look for the S/N starting with HTC6xx... but "our" defect is not the normal SA problem, it seems to be much rarer and not described in the Wiki.
Cheers
Daniel
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the exact same problem!!
Two additional points :
1) my device screen will not switch off automaticaly and will stay on for ever unless I switch it off
2) When the issue manifests itself for the first time the device would automaticaly go back to the today screen like if the OK button would have been pressed many time or ... was stuck!!
That's my second Tytn device the first one had the SA defect.
I was so happy when I got my new one because the S/N showed HTC637XXX but sounds like a new issue even though I'm pretty convince that that the SA issue is not far from being related to this one.
My device SPV3100 HERM100
Hello lads,
Absolutely everything you've posted seems to be happening to my device.
Now the touch screen fails to respond even if it's cold (been lying on the bed for 5 hours doing nothing at all .. ). damn... seems like I'll have to ask the local shop to get me a free portable refrigerator for the thing to work properly
HT645
Vrobenmat said:
Hard reset borked even more. Could't get past the touch screen calibration. Phone is now in the freezer to cool down - hopefully the touch screen will work long enough so I can get past the calibration
*EDIT* Just got it out the freezer (nice and cold now.) Hard reset, got through the calibration, everything ok for about 10 mins. LED's flashing with backlight on and touchscreen working. Then - touchscreen non-responsive at exactly the same time the status LED's cut out. I'm hypothesising that there's some kind of electrical short between the circuitry for the touchpad and the status LED's - it shorts as the devices temperature rises and (i guess) some of the materials expand and come into contact with each other. Since I don't want to void my warranty in case I have to take the phone back to the store, I haven't opened it up to confirm this. Has anyone had a detailed look at the connections at the top of the screen and around the status LED's to see if my explanation is at least possible? (then I might open it up and see if I can insulate the connections.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might get a chance to have an internal look tomorrow. From memory, and can't remember if the Wiki or Japanese dismantling site shows this, but I recall only a single mylar ribbon cable coming from screen area through to main board. There are if memory serves push in multi connectors from the bottom hard keypad and from front camera board (inc LEDs) to the muti ribbon cable on the back of the screen. Thus, simply put the screen, camera,hard phone keys all connect at the back of the screen to a single multi ribbon cable that goes to main board. Possibility then of a short with digitizer is at least possible. Of course digitizers are suceptible to current leakage and field interference so would not have to be an actual physical contact but could just be a close proximity issue.
Mike
Facing the same problems...
... I've been thinking about repalcing the display and the touchscreen. But now, considering that it is a HW issue, I can only replace these two things. If the bug is in the module above the screen (statur leds and camera) or related to the wireing at the back of the screen, it won't get rid of the problem. On the other hand, if it is a problem with the screen getting too hot, then I'm on the right track...
Has anyone tried this yet?
I'll try to call HTC on monday, maybe they know where the bug is.
HTC is not able or not willing to share what they know about the problem...
Hello, they excuse my English, I am possessor of a TYNT and I am with he himself problem that you, the problem is a failure of weld in the processador, when it reaches certain temperature fails and cooling it or pressing strongly on the processor it lets fail.
Greetings.
ezbook said:
Hello, they excuse my English, I am possessor of a TYNT and I am with he himself problem that you, the problem is a failure of weld in the processador, when it reaches certain temperature fails and cooling it or pressing strongly on the processor it lets fail.
Greetings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There may well be truth in what you say, I too believe it is something similar in some cases.
Do you have any proof of your suggestion. Can you provide pics or a diagram of the solder point you mean??
Mike
Hmm? The processor...?
...sorry, don't think so.
It's just that this bug occurs after using a device for months, isn't it?
Now, the first two weeks I installed all kind of programs using the wireless LAN almost permanently. My Hermes was never as "hot" as during its first two weeks. And what about the sliding-out of the keyboard? Doesn’t it always start there? This just doesn't sound right, does it?
Just received an email from someone who drew my attention to the ribbon cable connecting the upper and the lower part. What if there is a short one due to the plastic scratching the cable and then... who knows?
However, I do not disagree as far as the temp is concerned. Therefore, I'll put my Hermes on ice and see how long it does things right...
And still, there is no chance that it is related to the processor. If the processors ALU is getting too hot the entire device would be effected, wouldn’t it?
Anyways, I'm determined to find out what it is!
++ I just found a very peculiar post in the WIZARD forum. It was about some top-side buttons that kept pressing
++ without even touching… Opening the assigned programs over and over again. Odd, isn’t it?
++ That’s a HTC device AND has a sliding keyboard with a ribbon cable as a connector…
++ Yet, it operates with a different processor on a different main board.
++
++ Still blaming the processor?
microft said:
...sorry, don't think so.
It's just that this bug occurs after using a device for months, isn't it?
Now, the first two weeks I installed all kind of programs using the wireless LAN almost permanently. My Hermes was never as "hot" as during its first two weeks. And what about the sliding-out of the keyboard? Doesn’t it always start there? This just doesn't sound right, does it?
Just received an email from someone who drew my attention to the ribbon cable connecting the upper and the lower part. What if there is a short one due to the plastic scratching the cable and then... who knows?
However, I do not disagree as far as the temp is concerned. Therefore, I'll put my Hermes on ice and see how long it does things right...
And still, there is no chance that it is related to the processor. If the processors ALU is getting too hot the entire device would be effected, wouldn’t it?
Anyways, I'm determined to find out what it is!
++ I just found a very peculiar post in the WIZARD forum. It was about some top-side buttons that kept pressing
++ without even touching… Opening the assigned programs over and over again. Odd, isn’t it?
++ That’s a HTC device AND has a sliding keyboard with a ribbon cable as a connector…
++ Yet, it operates with a different processor on a different main board.
++
++ Still blaming the processor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And you are right too! if it appears that I am tending to agree with both above posts when on the face of it they disagree with each other it's because:
1
There are different manifestations of this problem - the causes may not always be the same
2
I agree it's NOT the processor and firmly believe it's hardware related. Of course it could be be a break (sometimes intermittent) in contact somewhere between screen and board or even a broken contact on the board (IN SOME CASES)
3
In other cases it's just pressure being put on the touch sensitive screen often at the very inconvenient top right corner that closes/minimises applications or opens start menu.
There has not been a reliable way to fix this issue other than device replacement. Replacing the screen has been notable for it's failure to resolve the issue.
Mike
mikechannon said:
And you are right too! if it appears that I am tending to agree with both above posts when on the face of it they disagree with each other it's because:
1
There are different manifestations of this problem - the causes may not always be the same
2
I agree it's NOT the processor and firmly believe it's hardware related. Of course it could be be a break (sometimes intermittent) in contact somewhere between screen and board or even a broken contact on the board (IN SOME CASES)
3
In other cases it's just pressure being put on the touch sensitive screen often at the very inconvenient top right corner that closes/minimises applications or opens start menu.
There has not been a reliable way to fix this issue other than device replacement. Replacing the screen has been notable for it's failure to resolve the issue.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So do you think the bug is to be found on the main board at all?
I'm planning to replace some parts from the screen half. In fact there are just 3 possible error sources:
1) The lcd in combination with the digitalizer;
2) The ribbon cable connecting screen parts and keypad at bottom; and
3) The keypad at the bottom itself
The ribbon cable includs the electronics for the status leds as well as the EARphone. ;-)
Soon I will be on all three of the above parts and if the error ain't there... I'm going to be MAD.
Will keep you IN THE LOOP!
Hello again, my conclusion is based on which I have disassembled my TYNT completely and I have connected it without the keyboard, of this form I have hoped to that it began to fail, later I have been moving and touching in any case the flat cable that unites the motherboard with the screen, the small circuit that takes built-in without obtaining results, single I have even obtained that it returns to work blowing air on the strongly pressed processor or on. Another observation is that if just ignited the machine and working correctly we applied single heat on the processor, begins to fail the touch screen. To my also is to me strange east failure since the temperature of the processor is not excessive when it fails, in fact desire firmly to be mistaken because there am lost the guarantee. Seguire investigating is matendre informed to you.
Greetings.
microft said:
So do you think the bug is to be found on the main board at all?
I'm planning to replace some parts from the screen half. In fact there are just 3 possible error sources:
1) The lcd in combination with the digitalizer;
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May be a fault there, but if it's just a squeeze due to heat ? pressure it may not resolve the issue.
2) The ribbon cable connecting screen parts and keypad at bottom; and
3) The keypad at the bottom itself
The ribbon cable includs the electronics for the status leds as well as the microphone.
Soon I will be on all three of the above parts and if the error ain't there... I'm going to be MAD.
Will keep you IN THE LOOP!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you mean earphone above as the microphone is on the mainboard.
Mike
Again I have tested, with the disassembled machine totally, start up it, I hope to that the touch screen does not respond and I put my tynt in the refrigerator, after two minutes and without moving I touch it the screen and magic, works correctly hata that again coje the room temperature.
Greetings.
ezbook said:
Hello again, my conclusion is based on which I have disassembled my TYNT completely and I have connected it without the keyboard, of this form I have hoped to that it began to fail, later I have been moving and touching in any case the flat cable that unites the motherboard with the screen, the small circuit that takes built-in without obtaining results, single I have even obtained that it returns to work blowing air on the strongly pressed processor or on. Another observation is that if just ignited the machine and working correctly we applied single heat on the processor, begins to fail the touch screen. To my also is to me strange east failure since the temperature of the processor is not excessive when it fails, in fact desire firmly to be mistaken because there am lost the guarantee. Seguire investigating is matendre informed to you.
Greetings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is very interesting. When I said above it is not the processor, I meant it is not a software issue related to the processor. It can of course be a heat related problem with the processor. To summarise what you have found:
1
You have a device that when first started works OK
2
If you apply heat (but not much) to the processor it fails
3
If you apply pressure to the processor it works again
4
It begins working again when you blow on the processor or put it in the fridge.
5
If you move/press or ensure the ribbon cable has a firm contact - this has no effect.
Please post if any of the above is NOT correct ALSO please post which chip you are heating/pressing.
Cheers
Mike
Hello again, everything is correct except point 3 really when this failing and you press on the then microprocessor the touch screen works correctly. Associate images.
Greetings.
EDIT by Mike. Point 3 has been edited in Mike's post to show the correct situation.
Hello everyone! I have problem with my phone because sometimes is turning off without any reason, I bought brand new battery and is still same when is switched off and I want to put it back on i must take off battery for couple of minutes, then put battery back and then switch on anybody know whats happened?? And how to fix it!!
It's the most standard problem with htc models touch and elf...
This problem is hardware based! in this condition there are only 2 things you can do:
1.send the device to a htc service center and get the motherboard changed for $300+ if you are out of warranty.
2.Or open the mobile and put a piece of thin plastic in between the omap prosessor chip and the steel piece tha goes over it and then put the second cover on top in order to apply pressure to it because the solder pins that are in between the cpu and the mobo are not connecting properly and lose contact so the phone goes off or freezes then goes off and some times stays off. Make sure that there is enough but not to much pressure applied to it! it worked for mine but i did it because it was out of warranty... its a temporary fix but if you are gentile to it after it will surely work for a few more months...
IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE SOMETHING LIKE THIS BEFORE OR YOUR TOUCH/ELF IS STILL IN WARRANTY DO NOT TRY IT!
I will post a pic that i took when i did mine if anyone is interested... Let me know...
Thanks for reply!
Uff.... first way to fix it is a little bit too expensive! And 2 way to do it seems quite easy, so i try to do it this way Could you add any picture of this and just tell me how to open this phone?
Many thanks!
@Firestarter42
Thanks man!!!!
did what you said, the plastic trik, and the phone is back to life (it was totally dead and didn't charge) you save a life today!!!
I had the same problem untill one day when he didn`t want to turn on and now i do not know what to do with it how to make it work again
Dear Sir,
I have just tried method 2.
My elf didnt have a metal cover on the processor, lol... got it used from someone... or should I say abused? lol
anyway, I hope it works. will update...
here's a link for the demonstrated tutorial:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=476152
Thanks a lot again.
I haved the same problem.....and i realize after many times that I didn't change my ipl and uspl!!!so my cocked rom frequentely turn off my device!!!now it's all right!!!!!!!
i had the same problm too....
it kept turning off and just a few weeks ago it would never turn on...
i did try that trick of keeping the plastic thingy on the omap processor ... it worked for a few weeks max after tht it happened as above
finally took my phone to htc.. told them it was gift and i dont have the invoice... actually purchased frm ebay for 150$ .....
they checked it was in warranty,.. they replaced the board... hurray... my elfin is alive again.. and in wm6.1
hope htc fixes this crap issue as many face this problem
My HTC elf was freezing, rbooting and so on, i was thinking that it was a windows/flash/third party programs problems ....
BUT I confirm that the method "open the mobile and put a piece of thin plastic in between the omap prosessor chip and the steel piece tha goes over it"
brings my htc elf to life again ... stable !
(i've done it with a metal piece and not plastic.)
Thanks for the advice !!!!
my elf was freezing and turning off so i try this 2. method and it works, and elf is much faster then before in my case...
I've never had this problem before but this week my phone switched itself off (so had to boot up again) a couple of times. I did try a new custom rom but I've also been using a different charger (USB mains adaptor) and a replacement battery (this seems to be a poor replacement battery which seems to make up the battery level.
So I don't know what was causing it. For some reason, removing the SD card and re-inserting it seems to have done the trick for now but I'll keep watching it.
Hi guys
My phone is, usually at night when there is no use, switching the screen off, the earphone green indicator flashes but the phone will not turn on when I press the power button, I have to do a soft reset each time to get it back on again (even though it appears to be on with the flashing green light). I cannot get calls or text and my alarm fails to sound. Have overslept a few times now!. Also, its battery has gone for a ball of ^&*%. Will this trick help? Thanks a lot!
Turn off as in literally 'poof!' or, it will restart?
The only way to get it to restart is to do a soft reset, or remove and replace the battery. The phone's green light will flash but there is no way to the screen to activate or use the phone - make calls, use the alarm, receive etc. The screen stays black, no use trying the power button either...
Firestarter42 said:
It's the most standard problem with htc models touch and elf...
This problem is hardware based! in this condition there are only 2 things you can do:
1.send the device to a htc service center and get the motherboard changed for $300+ if you are out of warranty.
2.Or open the mobile and put a piece of thin plastic in between the omap prosessor chip and the steel piece tha goes over it and then put the second cover on top in order to apply pressure to it because the solder pins that are in between the cpu and the mobo are not connecting properly and lose contact so the phone goes off or freezes then goes off and some times stays off. Make sure that there is enough but not to much pressure applied to it! it worked for mine but i did it because it was out of warranty... its a temporary fix but if you are gentile to it after it will surely work for a few more months...
IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE SOMETHING LIKE THIS BEFORE OR YOUR TOUCH/ELF IS STILL IN WARRANTY DO NOT TRY IT!
I will post a pic that i took when i did mine if anyone is interested... Let me know...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thankx your solutions worked out with my HTC Touch and i get replaced omap processor
power problem on Elf (not the usual)
hello guys, i have an Elf T-mobile that someone "lost" i found it, but was bricked...i unbricked following the awesome guides on the forum and installed on it the original italian rom (obviously am not german)
but...here's the problem, when i press the power button (should get it into stand by mode like every pda does) or also when goes on stand by itself, just shuts down !!!
then the pda auto soft resets, until the end...doesn't have the "auto power off problem" like i readed on the forums...however it tried but didn't solve the problem
i think is a problem with the radio, or the IPL or SPL (i tried 1.11.0002 IPL and 1.11.000 SPL...then 2.2x.xxxx IPL and SPL...now i tried 3.14.0002 IPL and 3.14.0000 SPL, also tried different radios...
but the problem remains...
EDIT: Problem solved, changed the little battery in the motherborad, it worked for me
help
Firestarter42 said:
It's the most standard problem with htc models touch and elf...
This problem is hardware based! in this condition there are only 2 things you can do:
1.send the device to a htc service center and get the motherboard changed for $300+ if you are out of warranty.
2.Or open the mobile and put a piece of thin plastic in between the omap prosessor chip and the steel piece tha goes over it and then put the second cover on top in order to apply pressure to it because the solder pins that are in between the cpu and the mobo are not connecting properly and lose contact so the phone goes off or freezes then goes off and some times stays off. Make sure that there is enough but not to much pressure applied to it! it worked for mine but i did it because it was out of warranty... its a temporary fix but if you are gentile to it after it will surely work for a few more months...
IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE SOMETHING LIKE THIS BEFORE OR YOUR TOUCH/ELF IS STILL IN WARRANTY DO NOT TRY IT!
I will post a pic that i took when i did mine if anyone is interested... Let me know...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can any one provide some sought of tutorial for this please
thanks
ishaan_chd88 said:
can any one provide some sought of tutorial for this please
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm presuming you mean for option 2, as 1 is quite obvious
Anyways, I haven't done this, but I am posting my best guess (untried, untested, just a theory).
Open your phone up and completely dissamble as described here. Completely strip it down so you only have your mainboard. Clearly take all the necessary precautions before hand (backup, etc etc.)
When done, you will see there are blank shields above where the chips will be, if you look, you can see little dimples, you can ease these off here. This will get you into where the omap processor is. You can then put the plastic on top, and make sure it is done as described. Should literally be a case of putting it all together and hoping for the best after that. I will have a look at some point (can't promise when) and see if I can take some photos of where this will go etc.
An alternative would be to try and reflow the joints of solder with a heat gun... very dangerous considering how tight the components are packed in, and overkill.
captainstu72 said:
I'm presuming you mean for option 2, as 1 is quite obvious
Anyways, I haven't done this, but I am posting my best guess (untried, untested, just a theory).
Open your phone up and completely dissamble as described here. Completely strip it down so you only have your mainboard. Clearly take all the necessary precautions before hand (backup, etc etc.)
When done, you will see there are blank shields above where the chips will be, if you look, you can see little dimples, you can ease these off here. This will get you into where the omap processor is. You can then put the plastic on top, and make sure it is done as described. Should literally be a case of putting it all together and hoping for the best after that. I will have a look at some point (can't promise when) and see if I can take some photos of where this will go etc.
An alternative would be to try and reflow the joints of solder with a heat gun... very dangerous considering how tight the components are packed in, and overkill.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks man but i guess am so dumb that am not getting where is this processor located anyways currently my phone is working fine but in few days I'll get the tools & open it...let see than
if you can arrange any pic of processor(where we have to fit plastic) it will be extremely helpful...
anyways thanks for helping
tc
where to get small battery on mother board
I've got a Samsung Focus that no longer has a working display. It seems the rest of the phone functions perfectly, but I'm unable to see what is happening. I think the display is recoverable, but I'm not positive (it's almost like there's no power being sent to it).
So when I connect to Zune software, I'm unable to view my phone contents because I have a lock pin. This becomes problematic with a non-working display. So one solution to my problem is how can I remove this code OR factory reset my phone without getting screen conformations.
Secondly, would it be worth an investment to repair the screen by buying a new one? It seems to be about ~$130 online for new displays and I'm very comfortable doing modifications like this with mobile devices
Thanks!
JoelLarson said:
I've got a Samsung Focus that no longer has a working display. It seems the rest of the phone functions perfectly, but I'm unable to see what is happening. I think the display is recoverable, but I'm not positive (it's almost like there's no power being sent to it).
So when I connect to Zune software, I'm unable to view my phone contents because I have a lock pin. This becomes problematic with a non-working display. So one solution to my problem is how can I remove this code OR factory reset my phone without getting screen conformations.
Secondly, would it be worth an investment to repair the screen by buying a new one? It seems to be about ~$130 online for new displays and I'm very comfortable doing modifications like this with mobile devices
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I suggest is read the diagnisis codes thread and see if you find something useful there (code, advice). Personally, I haven't heard of any code disabling the screen but there might be one. The hard reset combo from the wiki should cover that too, I think.
Now, that being said, I see 3 possibilities, higher probability first:
1. screen is damaged (and/or possibly something else). if it's broken, you can confirm.
2. screen connector/cord is loose (should be easy to fix)
3. software/code issue
1 is hardware repair
2 is easy fix, still hardware
3 is easier fix. here, you need a secondary phone, identical. you can perform the exact steps side-by-side to copy/make sure you got it right.
I know it's not a loose connector issue. I've triple checked that and have rubbed it all down in alcohol to make sure it wasn't a dirt issue. I also cannot do anything that requires the digiplex as none of it seems to be registered.
Things that work for sure:
Sound (internal speaker)
Power Button
Volume Buttons
Touch buttons on the front at the bottom (by windows key)
So the screen doesn't work but it's not broken?
Hi Guys,
First of all, please excuse me for my English, I'll try to do my best.
While replacing the "touch digitalizer" of my Ideos X5 (ordered online on ebay), I made a really stupid mistake. I was following on of these HOW-Tos on Youtube but I think I should have tried all by myself.
When you remove the screen, there are two circuits that you should disconnect. A bigger one at the bottom, and a smaller at the top.
I properly disconnecter the bigger one, broke the small one that links the POWER button and the Rear LED to the rest of the phone. It is only once broken, that I saw how easy it was to unplug this tiny "cable".
I was wondering, or better said hoping if it was possible to buy this small circuit online?
I guess I could even take this circuit from a bricked/broken ideos, but can't find any on ebay.
Any suggestion?
tomf said:
Hi Guys,
First of all, please excuse me for my English, I'll try to do my best.
While replacing the "touch digitalizer" of my Ideos X5 (ordered online on ebay), I made a really stupid mistake. I was following on of these HOW-Tos on Youtube but I think I should have tried all by myself.
When you remove the screen, there are two circuits that you should disconnect. A bigger one at the bottom, and a smaller at the top.
I properly disconnecter the bigger one, broke the small one that links the POWER button and the Rear LED to the rest of the phone. It is only once broken, that I saw how easy it was to unplug this tiny "cable".
I was wondering, or better said hoping if it was possible to buy this small circuit online?
I guess I could even take this circuit from a bricked/broken ideos, but can't find any on ebay.
Any suggestion?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also did the same..broke the power circuit while replacing the digitizer. Were you able to reboot your phone?
rinkusri said:
I also did the same..broke the power circuit while replacing the digitizer. Were you able to reboot your phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I can't find any other way to boot the phone :crying:
It would be great to be able to start the phone without this circuit, even if I lose functions like camera, speaker, and others until I find a replacement.
Is there a way ?
tomf said:
No, I can't find any other way to boot the phone :crying:
It would be great to be able to start the phone without this circuit, even if I lose functions like camera, speaker, and others until I find a replacement.
Is there a way ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for relying you late. Yes, there is an alternate way to boot the phone. Follow these steps:
1. Remove the battery cover
2. Plug in the charger.
3. Once you see the huawei logo on screen, remove the battery.
4. Wait till the phone boot till the home screen
5. Once you see the home screen, immediately put the battery again.
6. After system recognize the battery, safely remove the charger from phone and put the battery cover in place.
Once you do these exercise, the phone will work as usual except power button features.
Only problem there is no way to wake up the phone at sleep mode except you put on charger or somebody calls you
Well..somehow I assigned Volume Up button for all Power button feature. If you need, I will also guide you for that. But for now, just see if you are able to boot the phone with above steps.
Cheers :good:
Guys, care to help me out here? I have this i9505 in front of me. It was brought to me because it would randomly stop playing audio. I noticed that this audio issue only happens after the device wakes up from sleep. No sound at all after wake up from sleep. And Video Playback (SdCard and YouTube) stutter goes along with the problem. Here's what I did to get rid of this issue:
- Factory reset in Samsung Stock Recovery; didn't help.
- Flash stock tar.gz via Odin; didn't help. (Yes, I used the correct one matching my model)
- Flash CM to rule out issues with Samsung specific software/drivers; didn't help
So I concluded that there must be a hardware issue. Since the device looked pretty worn out and sticky, I though maybe dust or something else like a liquid could've destroyed the internals. I dissassembled it but to my surprise it looked very clean. So I reassembled it. Plot twist; now it wouldn't boot anymore. It passes the Samsung splash screen and gets into the Bootanimation. But within seconds into it, it reboots. This goes on and on and on unless I take out the battery. I know what you're thinking, but listen; I disassembled/reassembled almost 70 devices, almost half of which iPhones (Yes, I keep track of it, since I charge people for my work) and chances that I messed up something are very low. Not saying impossible, but you get the point. I exclusively change parts. Dispalys, middle frames, backcovers, batteries, microphones, cameras, microsd/sim trays, you name it*. Anyway.
Now, no matter what I do, I can't boot into the OS. Download Mode, Recovery, be it stock TWRP or CWM just work fine. When I format the internal storage via TWRP/CWM and boot up the device on stock, no folders are created on it. But when I flash a custom ROM, be it TW, CM or AOSP/A, I sometimes get into the OS and the standard Android folder structure is created. But the device is then pretty much unresponsive. I can barely navigate the OS before it shuts down again.
What could be the issue here? What could I have damaged during reassembly to cause these issues? But on the other hand, the S4 has a fairly simple architecture and I use an ESD pad, ESD wrist straps and only use plastic tools to pry off connectors. I even watch the humidity in my room for the record.
I gave this guy a replacement Nexus 5 already after he brought his S4 to me. That's what I usually do when I can't tell how long a "repair" could take. If it turns out that I caused the problem, of course he'll get to keep the device.
EDIT: I forgot. I have some spare parts for the i9505 and replaced one at a time to rule out malfunctioning hardware. So far I replaced every part except mainboard (Sim/SdCard Slot), Display and any cable connected to these two parts only to end up with the same problem.
nitrous² said:
Guys, care to help me out here? I have this i9505 in front of me. It was brought to me because it would randomly stop playing audio. I noticed that this audio issue only happens after the device wakes up from sleep. No sound at all after wake up from sleep. And Video Playback (SdCard and YouTube) stutter goes along with the problem. Here's what I did to get rid of this issue:
- Factory reset in Samsung Stock Recovery; didn't help.
- Flash stock tar.gz via Odin; didn't help. (Yes, I used the correct one matching my model)
- Flash CM to rule out issues with Samsung specific software/drivers; didn't help
So I concluded that there must be a hardware issue. Since the device looked pretty worn out and sticky, I though maybe dust or something else like a liquid could've destroyed the internals. I dissassembled it but to my surprise it looked very clean. So I reassembled it. Plot twist; now it wouldn't boot anymore. It passes the Samsung splash screen and gets into the Bootanimation. But within seconds into it, it reboots. This goes on and on and on unless I take out the battery. I know what you're thinking, but listen; I disassembled/reassembled almost 70 devices, almost half of which iPhones (Yes, I keep track of it, since I charge people for my work) and chances that I messed up something are very low. Not saying impossible, but you get the point. I exclusively change parts. Dispalys, middle frames, backcovers, batteries, microphones, cameras, microsd/sim trays, you name it*. Anyway.
Now, no matter what I do, I can't boot into the OS. Download Mode, Recovery, be it stock TWRP or CWM just work fine. When I format the internal storage via TWRP/CWM and boot up the device on stock, no folders are created on it. But when I flash a custom ROM, be it TW, CM or AOSP/A, I sometimes get into the OS and the standard Android folder structure is created. But the device is then pretty much unresponsive. I can barely navigate the OS before it shuts down again.
What could be the issue here? What could I have damaged during reassembly to cause these issues? But on the other hand, the S4 has a fairly simple architecture and I use an ESD pad, ESD wrist straps and only use plastic tools to pry off connectors. I even watch the humidity in my room for the record.
I gave this guy a replacement Nexus 5 already after he brought his S4 to me. That's what I usually do when I can't tell how long a "repair" could take. If it turns out that I caused the problem, of course he'll get to keep the device.
EDIT: I forgot. I have some spare parts for the i9505 and replaced one at a time to rule out malfunctioning hardware. So far I replaced every part except mainboard (Sim/SdCard Slot), Display and any cable connected to these two parts only to end up with the same problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's clearly hardware damage. Some component on your motherboard. The audio problem is/was also hardware related. No software would cause that. My conclusion based on your info is that the motherboard already was damaged. Sound problems are usually a damaged motherboard. So the disassembly probably made it worse. Just bad luck. Maybe reheating/reflowing the audio chip will fix it. If not then buy a new motherboard and charge him that.
Yeah, was also thinking about a reflow. But it's strange that everything works. Download mode, recovery and I can mount and access every partition in TWRP/CWM. Let's see. I'm not sure if I'm gonna charge him. It sounds obvious on first sight that I caused it, sure. But I haven't given up hope yet.
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