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Hello all,
I'm experience a little trouble by WMWifiRouter.
I think I find a power management bug because this behavior is very weird.
When run WMWifiRouter and the phone is plugged in by AC Outlet, sometimes it will trigger discharge mode. So, my phone will be plugged into the wall and at the same time it will be draining the battery down to 0% from full charge very rapidly.
It only occurs if WMWifiRouter is running - so the wifi will be on, BUT even if I shut down WMWifiRouter and switch off hard switch wifi on side of phone, my phone will remain in discharge mode until I reboot the phone.
When the phone reaches 0% capacity it will shut down even though it is plugged in by wall.
This occurs with wall adapter, USB cable, and XV6700 car charger. All the same.
Since the battery only has a finite amount of discharge/charge cycles, I want to be very careful about this issue so I don't destroy the battery. Also, I can't use direct USB cable for tethering because every five minutes or so, I must disable ICS and then restart ICS since my computer enters USB power save mode which causes loss of connectivity, and this is a little inconvenient.
Only solution is WMWifiRouter, but by use this, my phone will discharge completely in maybe 30 minutes if I try to use it while plug to wall.
Sorry for the long post about this issue.
Hiromitsu
When your phone is plugged in, is the orange battery light flashing or steady? Normal charging should have it steady. If it is plugged in and the battery isn't charging properly (because it's too hot while wifi is on) then the light will flash, which means it isn't charging. Since it's not charging, then it's your wifi that's draining your battery.
Having wifi on makes your battery very hot, and at some point, it may stop charging.
When I use wifi and need a charge, I plug in a USB cable to my laptop. It doesn't seem to get as hot.
Overheat Mode
When using WMWifiRouter, the battery drains quickly.
1. Make sure bluetooth is off.
2. Make sure beaming is of.
3. USB charging is too slow to keep up with WifiRouter
4. Plus phone into the wall
5. Slide keyboard open to release heat quicker so the phone does not go into discharge mode.
6. Enjoy
I just tried your method Ectropian.
By plug to wall and slide open keyboard, it will dissipate heat quickly and won't enter discharge mode. So, this is a fix and I am very thankful for your help!
Hiromitsu
I have found that USB charging is fast enough to keep up. The phone overheats.under some circumstances it can even overheat during a normal phone call. Im trying to get a small fan for it. I plan on using a fat back battery cover for an extended battery,and wiring it to the battery terminals. I will drill some vent holes in it and connect it with a temperature sensor. It will add some thickness to the phone,but should not effect battery life as the fan wont turn on until it overheats.
Unfortunately the 3mm thick fan I want is only available in quantities of 200. I will probably have to go with a 5mm thick fan for now. I dont know if it will fit under the back though. Does anyone have one of the thicker batteries they could accurately measure for me?
Does anyone know how to set up a password for WMWifiRouter so it is a secure network and no one else around me can use my internet?
Ectropian said:
5. Slide keyboard open to release heat quicker so the phone does not go into discharge mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a good idea! Hadn't thought of that : )
Ectropian said:
When using WMWifiRouter, the battery drains quickly.
1. Make sure bluetooth is off.
2. Make sure beaming is of.
3. USB charging is too slow to keep up with WifiRouter
4. Plus phone into the wall
5. Slide keyboard open to release heat quicker so the phone does not go into discharge mode.
6. Enjoy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In addition to these good suggestion, I have find that if you also
a.) Remove stylus from stylus slot, and
b.) Turn the phone upside down while WMWifiRouter is in use,
It will dissipate heat even quicker.
You see, stylus to the XV6800 is made by metal, so,, it conduct heat and hold it in that stylus hole. Take stylus out, heat escapes through hole instead of build up by metal stylus rod.
Also, back of keyboard is metal, so turn it up, and air pass over it and remove heat too. (Make sure keyboard is slide open when turn upside down, as previously mentioned by Ectropian. This will improve air flow to heat conducting areas.)
Hope it helps everyone else like it helped me.
Hiromitsu
weav4444 said:
Does anyone know how to set up a password for WMWifiRouter so it is a secure network and no one else around me can use my internet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you setup the new adhoc connection in wilan settings/comm manager/ (need to have the wifi ant on when you do this) in wm6, you can setup the network name and key.
I want to set up my SSID next time i'm sitting in starbucks for all the people that bring their laptops.
Network name/SSID:
Ask the guy with the coolest phone you see for the network key.
read the wmwifirouter thread. Chainfire addressed this issue by making the "unattended" mode. You can and should hit the power button and turn the phone to standby while using wmwifirouter. This saves enough power so the wall charger can keep up with the drain... maybe even the usb charger. I think very few people if any agree with the opinion above that the usb charger is better. The consensus is that it's the amount of power the charger can deliver that's important more than the heat... of course more power is more heat.
Batteries charge more rapidly when they're closer to discharged. Before using the unattended mode... (could maybe happen wth an older battery too) I found that if I disconnected and reconnected power after dropping below about 70% that charging would kick back in and then be more likely to keep up.. holding the charge steady at about 70%. Above this, the charging current probably dropped below the usage current. With the unattended mode it is fine even at 100%.
Edit: Let me make this more clear. A given charger can provide more current because it has a lower internal resistance and lower voltage drop under a current load. Increased charging current increases heat which may increase resitance within the battery and charging circuits and in turn limits charging current, even if the heat isn't increasing the resistance is a sign that lot of power is being lost to resistive losses. It may be that the dominant resistance is due to the device itself, not the charger and that a better charger won't help, but it's silly to say that a better charger will make it worse.. if it's getting hotter it's only beacuase it's charging with a higher current... which is a good thing (at least until the divice is actually damaged). It may be that internal limitations keeps it from charging at a significantly higher current so the wall charger might not do significantly better, but it can't be worse... if it was worse... it wouldn't be getting hotter.. it would be cooler(because of less charging current)... unless maybe there's actually a thermal cutoff? I suppose that's a possibility... but still the end result observed should in that case be that the phone seems cooler after hitting the cutoff, albeit not charging if that's the case.
dagurasu said:
unless maybe there's actually a thermal cutoff? I suppose that's a possibility... but still the end result observed should in that case be that the phone seems cooler after hitting the cutoff, albeit not charging if that's the case.
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Click to collapse
There is in fact a thermal cutoff. The problem that many people,including myself experience is that while the phone is charging,and the battery is getting hotter,the phone is also producing heat. The battery gets so hot that the thermal cutoff trips and the battery stops charging. I tested this with a can of compressed air and confirmed it was a heat problem. I then placed the phone on top of a small fan,with the battery cover off and the phone ran all night long without over heating. When I dont have it on the fan it overheats,stops charging,discharges and shuts down. Opening the keyboard and removing the battery cover helps,but it does it still,it just takes longer.
Well I guess as with most things on these phones.. there are different results for different people. When mine starts flashing it doesn't seem to have cuttoff charging.. but rather just indicates it's not quite keeping up. The wall charger gets hotter.. but the flashing never happens with it.
I'm a little surprised about this strange cuttoff behavior for several reasons, but there are too many unknowns... I guess we better stick with what's observed.
The powersave battery hacks help ALOT. It's also clear that (at least with powersave hacks) the more data rate you use, the more power it uses. If yours is getting that hot "overnight", then either you aren't using the powersave hacks, your phone is broken.. you're continuoulsy downloading stuff for hours which could lead me to guess full data capacity full time, or running a server of some kind with at least some significant use. If it's something like the last two, I guess I'm not surprised some modifications are required to get that kind of steady performance out of a little pocket device. I've had actual wireless routers overheat and lock up in such conditions. It's a phone not a cisco. Still if your fan can make it into a cisco.. then that's kind of cool.
OH yeah.. also I turn down the wireless power all the way in the settings, but that actually doesn't seem that important, not sure.
I have been searching for a solution to this as well. I have all the power saving hacks and everything on my mogule and mine still overheats and eventualy dies. I found another temp solution, I put it on an ice pack and it doesn't have the problem..lol
better idea than ice pack (I know this is a year old post but owhell)
better idea,.... ice pack could void phone with H2O.
Throw tha ***** in to the freezer and call it a day!
dagurasu said:
It's a phone not a cisco. Still if your fan can make it into a cisco.. then that's kind of cool.
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sig material
eigerzoom said:
sig material
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Its not a Cisco? Ive been using it like that for years. Seriously,I have.
I actually use mine in my truck and the nice thing about it is I have a phone holder that clips on the air vent. So while running WMWifiRouter on the road for our laptop I just keep the AC on the back of the phone and no heat issues or charging issues.
Guys, I'm hoping someone familiar with LiPo battery charging can give me some insight. I've done some diagnostics, and I'd like your take...
- Nexus 7 3G, purchased a few weeks ago. 4.2.1, not rooted, stock charger and cable
- Battery life seems good, fully charges and discharges 'normally'
- I usually charge with the device powered off (ie: blocky battery icon in the middle of the screen).
However....
- On two occasions now, I've left it on the charger for a long time (>15 hours) and have come back to a dead device.
- Pressing the power button doesn't bring up the blocky battery icon.
- Holding the power button for 30+ seconds brings the device back back.
- It has otherwise never failed to boot properly during normal use.
Out of curiosity, I was wondering if there was something wrong with the charging process causing this, so
- I plugged the stock charger into my Kill-A-Watt last night to monitor the charging current.
- Even 8 hours after the device finished charging (via the blocky icon), the current never dropped to zero - it stuck around 10mA on the AC side (ie: ~1.2W).
- My first N7 (sent back for a bad speaker and dead pixels) went to zero after charging. My iPad does the same.
QUESTION(S):
I know modern LiPo batteries have internal circuitry to prevent overcharging, but does it sound like that circuitry might be defective on mine such that I should be worried about overcharging? Could that be the reason for my lockups?
I really don't want to go through the return process again if I don't have to. I'd rather just live with it if I can prevent damage by taking it off the charger when complete. Thoughts? Opinions? Have any of you done this test, and if so, does yours go to zero?
Thanks for any insight!
developer_john said:
However....
- On two occasions now, I've left it on the charger for a long time (>15 hours) and have come back to a dead device.
- Pressing the power button doesn't bring up the blocky battery icon.
- Holding the power button for 30+ seconds brings the device back back.
- It has otherwise never failed to boot properly during normal use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That might be a possible cause... Leaving any device plugged in the charger for long periods of time is not recommended. Anyway have you tried charging the tablet with another charger with a higher output? If it refuses to turn on even after holding the power button for 30 seconds you might be able to "wake" it up by using a higher output charger. Thats what I did on my Nexus 7 when the battery level went too low.
cr0wnest said:
That might be a possible cause... Leaving any device plugged in the charger for long periods of time is not recommended. Anyway have you tried charging the tablet with another charger with a higher output? If it refuses to turn on even after holding the power button for 30 seconds you might be able to "wake" it up by using a higher output charger. Thats what I did on my Nexus 7 when the battery level went too low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm...everything I've read has indicated that Lithium Ion/Polymer batteries can be left on a charger without damage since they have internal circuitry to prevent overcharging (although I realize a constant topping off is probably not wise in the long run). As for a charger with a higher output, I thought the stock charger was 2.1A....I've never heard of a 3A or 4A USB charger. Can you clarify what you mean?
Also, as I said, on the two occasions it has locked up, holding the power button has brought it back, so I'm not really asking about how to get it back if it locks up - I'm asking if the behavior (locking up, charge current not dropping to 0) is indicative of a battery that has faulty overcharge protection.
Thanks though!
The "charger" IC inside the N7 not only charges the battery but at the same time powers the device - it should allow use of a N7 with no or a faulty battery. I've never looked at the standby settings on the N7 but I would suggest that is where your 1W is going. The only info about the IC I know is http://www.summitmicro.com/prod_select/summary/SMB347/SMB347.htm
Added I think this is an identical TI version of the chip http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slusaw5a/slusaw5a.pdf
peterk-1 said:
The "charger" IC inside the N7 not only charges the battery but at the same time powers the device - it should allow use of a N7 with no or a faulty battery. I've never looked at the standby settings on the N7 but I would suggest that is where your 1W is going. The only info about the IC I know is http://www.summitmicro.com/prod_select/summary/SMB347/SMB347.htm
Added I think this is an identical TI version of the chip http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slusaw5a/slusaw5a.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks - that's good info. However, since I have been charging with the device off, it would seem to me that it shouldn't be drawing any standby current...unless just the act of charging puts the unit in a form of standby. It also still doesn't explain why my first unit went to 0A a while after charging completed, while this one doesn't. I'm now wondering if I may be looking at roundoff error. The resolution of the kill-a-watt is .01A - which is what I'm seeing. It could just be that both units drew some current after charge completion, but this one pulls marginally more.
So, my question still stands. Does anyone familiar with LiPo technology know if this sounds like my overcharge protection circuitry is faulty? Is it normal for a device that has completed charging to draw SOME current, and if so, how much? Would someone else with a Kill-A-Watt be willing to try this and let me know what you see?
Thanks again for the help guys...
Just in case anyone is still following this thread, I have some new info. I charged my N7 last night POWERED ON.....and after charging was complete, the AC current draw went to 0A. I'm starting to wonder now whether the 1.2W constant power I saw when charging powered off is the power needed to keep the charging circuitry alive while the tablet is powered off. When the device is powered on, maybe this circuitry is running off the battery allowing the AC draw to go to 0A. I have absolutely nothing to support this, so it's just a guess/hypothesis, but at least I know my N7 is behaving the same as my first one. I also loaded Simple Battery Logger while doing my last charge and all looks normal....it charged up to about 4.208V, indicated 'full', then the voltage start dropping off - which tells me that it stopped charging. It also maintained a temp of about 23C throughout the process. I'm running a battery test right now and it doesn't seem to have been damaged by my overnight charging episodes...if anything, the battery life is better than when I first got it.
I'm going to let it go here and assume all is well. If anyone does any experiments with theirs, I'd be interested in seeing the results.
Thanks again!
The original battery in my Nook had gotten to the point where it would only run for a day or so. I ordered a replacement battery and installed it. The system came up and indicated a 85% charge. Put in on the charger for the evening and then started using it in the morning. After more then a month of use the Nook indicated it was getting low so I placed it back on the charger. It was then I noticed that while it detected it was on a charger (got the large battery icon) the device/battery never switched from 'discharge' to 'charging', only to 'not charging'. Left it on over night but no change.
Thinking I perhaps had a bad battery (and not being able to return it) I purchased another one from a different source. Upon installing this one (at a 75% charge) I noticed it would show the same thing 'not charging'.
Putting the Nook original battery back in made everything happy.
I have tried different cables and power plugs, reboots, hard reboots, pulling the battery holding the power down for 60sec, even doing the factory reset re-register. Nothing seems to help.
Has anyone else seen this type of behavior with a new battery?
Possible that both are bad? Or is there some value that is not getting cleared?
Any help or pointers will be appreciated.
Thank-you
Did you try using UsbMode.apk (in the signature)?
(You'll need superuser to run that.)
Try setting the current to 500 mA and see if it will start charging.
Renate NST said:
Did you try using UsbMode.apk (in the signature)?
(You'll need superuser to run that.)
Try setting the current to 500 mA and see if it will start charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank-you for the fast reply. I haven't rooted the Nook yet but seeing that nothing else is working I have no problem trying. I will download your app and give it a try.
Thanks again
dsfraser said:
Thank-you for the fast reply. I haven't rooted the Nook yet but seeing that nothing else is working I have no problem trying. I will download your app and give it a try.
Thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I did the NookManager root and sideloaded your USBMode.apk. Changed the setup from Auto to 500mA, but it makes no difference. The status says 'Not charging' (switches to Discharging if I unplug). Health - Unknown, Reg - enabled, Max current - 500 mA, Battery - 3.963V 69%, Temp - 28F (which is odd as it's about 70 in here) Problem with a temperature sensor?
I've toyed with the idea of swapping the little battery circuit card from the old battery to my new one, good or bad idea?
Thanks for your assistance.
B&N screwed up on the temperature measurement.
The were supposed to report it as in integer, scaled 10X Celcius.
So for a normal 23°C the number should be 230, B&N blew it and delivers 23.
UsbMode.apk uses fingerprints to determine if it should handle it as a bug.
There is a problem with that, there are many Nooks with different fingerprints.
In any case 28°F is below freezing, below 0°C.
If the scale were off by a factor of 10, it would still be cold.
If the charging circuits thought the battery were cold it would not charge.
Since the thermistor in the battery pack is NTC, that means it's probably open.
The resistance from yellow to black at room temperature should be near to 10K.
Those little boards are tiny and it would be easy to short the battery before the Battery Protection Module.
I'd just pick up a new battery if the yellow/black measurement is way high.
Renate NST said:
B&N screwed up on the temperature measurement.
The were supposed to report it as in integer, scaled 10X Celcius.
So for a normal 23°C the number should be 230, B&N blew it and delivers 23.
UsbMode.apk uses fingerprints to determine if it should handle it as a bug.
There is a problem with that, there are many Nooks with different fingerprints.
In any case 28°F is below freezing, below 0°C.
If the scale were off by a factor of 10, it would still be cold.
If the charging circuits thought the battery were cold it would not charge.
Since the thermistor in the battery pack is NTC, that means it's probably open.
The resistance from yellow to black at room temperature should be near to 10K.
Those little boards are tiny and it would be easy to short the battery before the Battery Protection Module.
I'd just pick up a new battery if the yellow/black measurement is way high.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are probably right about just getting another new battery, third times the charm? I tried to swap the circuit cards between the old, still sort of functioning, and the new 'no charging' one but to no avail. Didn't get any voltage out at all. Any recommendations about whom to buy a new battery from... I obviously haven't made very good choices the past two times.
Thanks for the help
It still could be the charging system on your Nook.
(But you say that your old battery charges ok. What does the temperature say?)
It would be nice to figure out exactly what the problem is.
Do you have a meter to measure the yellow to black resistance?
Moreover, is the yellow wire next to the red wires?
If they switched the thermistor and the ID resistor wire 30K would probably give a freezing indication.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=42552349&postcount=5
Renate NST said:
It still could be the charging system on your Nook.
(But you say that your old battery charges ok. What does the temperature say?)
It would be nice to figure out exactly what the problem is.
Do you have a meter to measure the yellow to black resistance?
Moreover, is the yellow wire next to the red wires?
If they switched the thermistor and the ID resistor wire 30K would probably give a freezing indication.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=42552349&postcount=5
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Click to collapse
First off... Thank-you, thank-you, thank-you.
Now the story. I more or less (OK, more) destroyed my original and first replacement battery swapping the circuit cards around. I followed your suggestion and put a meter on the plug wires. My colors ran RRYWBB. Sure enough I had 27K where I should have 10K, and 9K where it should read 30K. Using a X-acto knife I was able to pry the plug locking tabs up and swap the Wht / Yel leads. Bingo, the Temp now reads 72F and when I plug in the charger I immediately get the battery icon with the lightning bolt and the status switches to 'Charging'. I'm guessing the first replacement battery had the same issue. These were from different companies and were packaged differently, but perhaps they all come from the same manufacture and that manufacture screwed up.
So again, thank-you for all your help.
Done a bunch of reading on the charging rates for the oneplus 2 and it turns out the phone only charges at 0.5A while screen is on vs 2A while screen is off. Anyone know how to change this? If I recall the oneplus one charged much more quickly with screen on despite having an identical charger. Is this something that needs to be changed in a kernel, or can this be fixed via build prop edits?
Will update the OP when we've found a solution. Let's make this phone great.
xxBrun0xx said:
Done a bunch of reading on the charging rates for the oneplus 2 and it turns out the phone only charges at 0.5A while screen is on vs 2A while screen is off. Anyone know how to change this? If I recall the oneplus one charged much more quickly with screen on despite having an identical charger. Is this something that needs to be changed in a kernel, or can this be fixed via build prop edits?
Will update the OP when we've found a solution. Let's make this phone great.
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Click to collapse
Same issue. Very disappointing! I hope there's something around this because I'm at 25% charged after 1.5 hours!
Same issue here man. Anybody found a solution?
I'ts perfectly normal.
It's like fueling your car while driving - it will take longer to fuel up the tank
Why? Because, when connected to the charger and phone on:
- screen uses lot of energy
- cpu also
- WiFi, etc.
Therefore is normal that the phone charges at a slower rate while You're using it and charging at the same time.
More details here: How to Test If Your Micro-USB Cable Is Charging Properly.
Hope I helped
0v3rl0rd said:
I'ts perfectly normal.
It's like fueling your car while driving - it will take longer to fuel up the tank
Why? Because, when connected to the charger and phone on:
- screen uses lot of energy
- cpu also
- WiFi, etc.
Therefore is normal that the phone charges at a slower rate while You're using it and charging at the same time.
More details here: How to Test If Your Micro-USB Cable Is Charging Properly.
Hope I helped
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
rubbish in this case
It is a safety Feature. And some type of thermal throtteling. To change this behavior you have to use a Kernel which is able to set a strict charging Power and you to change thermal settings to keep the device from throtteling because of higher Battery temperature.
My Galaxy s5 g900f overheats with anything i do, it overheated in recovery while i was trying to do a nandroid restore, it overheats while charging (turned off), it overheats when i turn it on, i see the samsung s5 animated logo altough very laggy, and when it turns on i enter my sim password and all i see is the notification bar and the rest is a black screen nothing works whatever i do.
When i say overheat i mean the screen and the upper back of the phone are hot, it all happens in a matter of a few minutes.
The CPU got upto 73C while i was doing the nandroid restore.
I got the stock charger and cable, never changed any hardware inside the phone is everything is genuine.
I am running Xtresto lite ROM for the past 4-5 months with no problems. (So i guess it's not the rom?)
Please help.
Thanks in advance.
edit: i've got it on the charger now and it's off and just noticed that the phone is discharging although it shows that is charging, it only charged up to a point i guess and now it is falling while on the charger on the wall
charging will be hotter than unplugged actually, also in my experience within TWRP with its temperature on screen, i also reached 70 degrees simply going through menus... which means there is no cpu idle state without a kernel/rom
so... are you able to run a temperature monitor (maybe with kernel adiutor) or is the whole thing going to freeze or shut down? there is supposed to be thermal throttling depending on kernel & if some parameters have been turned off (you can see them in kernel adiutor)
hopefully it's just some app failing or malware, not a hardware failure... is the phone allowed to turn on while usb plugged in WITHOUT battery? are you willing to wipe the OS? i'm not sure you got your nandroid backup completed (also i have no experience with that... i used TWRP to backup but never tried restoring when i moved from CM12 to CM13, my internal storage was untouched anyway)
edit: just reread your off+charging situation... is this a 2A charger that you know has been able to quickly charge in the past? (like, 0 to 70% in only an hour)
have you inspected the battery, its metal contacts, & the phone's metal contacts for the battery?
kn00tcn said:
charging will be hotter than unplugged actually, also in my experience within TWRP with its temperature on screen, i also reached 70 degrees simply going through menus... which means there is no cpu idle state without a kernel/rom
so... are you able to run a temperature monitor (maybe with kernel adiutor) or is the whole thing going to freeze or shut down? there is supposed to be thermal throttling depending on kernel & if some parameters have been turned off (you can see them in kernel adiutor)
hopefully it's just some app failing or malware, not a hardware failure... is the phone allowed to turn on while usb plugged in WITHOUT battery? are you willing to wipe the OS? i'm not sure you got your nandroid backup completed (also i have no experience with that... i used TWRP to backup but never tried restoring when i moved from CM12 to CM13, my internal storage was untouched anyway)
edit: just reread your off+charging situation... is this a 2A charger that you know has been able to quickly charge in the past? (like, 0 to 70% in only an hour)
have you inspected the battery, its metal contacts, & the phone's metal contacts for the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the reply
No, i cant run any app because as soon as i get in the os its just the notification bar and a black screen, my apps flicker for a second once in a while but there is no way of using the phone, not even in safe mode.
No, the phone can't run without a battery and am pretty sure every phone is like this. You need the battery plugged in for it to work whatsoever.
I have no choice but to wipe the os and reinstall it i backed up everything i could and possible.
This is indeed a 2A charger, it's the original samsung charger that came with the phone. The metal contacts seem fine and the battery is fine. It's not the battery that overheats it's the rest of the phone. When the phone is hot i removed the battery to check if it was the source of the heat and it wasn't.
edit: the battery is draining fast! i can't even charge it, it loses battery while on charger too (the phone is off)
edit 2: i made it until the wipe, then i went to install my rom and it turned off before i reached the point of flashing (thank god) and i guess its draining so fast i cant charge it
Maybe an external battery charger might help to at least give it sine juice to install stock. I'm sure the kernel is linked to charging while powered off. So fingers crossed its a software issue, though this those sound kind of worrying behaviour. External battery chargers can be bought quite cheaply of eBay. I bought a USB battery dock and a better quality male to male USB cable as provided one is crap, and use it with my original Samsung charger. Don't trust the wall plug in types as their all made in China... Best of luck.
rockon92 said:
Hi, thanks for the reply
No, i cant run any app because as soon as i get in the os its just the notification bar and a black screen, my apps flicker for a second once in a while but there is no way of using the phone, not even in safe mode.
No, the phone can't run without a battery and am pretty sure every phone is like this. You need the battery plugged in for it to work whatsoever.
I have no choice but to wipe the os and reinstall it i backed up everything i could and possible.
This is indeed a 2A charger, it's the original samsung charger that came with the phone. The metal contacts seem fine and the battery is fine. It's not the battery that overheats it's the rest of the phone. When the phone is hot i removed the battery to check if it was the source of the heat and it wasn't.
edit: the battery is draining fast! i can't even charge it, it loses battery while on charger too (the phone is off)
edit 2: i made it until the wipe, then i went to install my rom and it turned off before i reached the point of flashing (thank god) and i guess its draining so fast i cant charge it
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geeze, well it does sound like 100% cpu usage... like those bitcoin mining malware
i would try to flash a fresh replacement or stock kernel+bootloader+baseband with root disabled using odin or something, we need to prove that the software is clean
as for the temperature, if it's winter where you are... get the phone some cold air (edit: by the way, lower temperature means lower wattage... only problem is battery capacity might also appear lower, so it's only good for being wired)
RuffBuster said:
Maybe an external battery charger might help to at least give it sine juice to install stock. I'm sure the kernel is linked to charging while powered off. So fingers crossed its a software issue, though this those sound kind of worrying behaviour. External battery chargers can be bought quite cheaply of eBay. I bought a USB battery dock and a better quality male to male USB cable as provided one is crap, and use it with my original Samsung charger. Don't trust the wall plug in types as their all made in China... Best of luck.
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I will have a look into an external charger or look if someone can lend me their battery to test. Happy to know that the kernel is linked to charging, i still have my hopes to software!
kn00tcn said:
geeze, well it does sound like 100% cpu usage... like those bitcoin mining malware
i would try to flash a fresh replacement or stock kernel+bootloader+baseband with root disabled using odin or something, we need to prove that the software is clean
as for the temperature, if it's winter where you are... get the phone some cold air (edit: by the way, lower temperature means lower wattage... only problem is battery capacity might also appear lower, so it's only good for being wired)
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Click to collapse
where do i find those files for odin? sammobile? yeah it's winter my issue now is that it is completely dead it's not responding when i connect it to the charger at all. I tried 2 original samsung chargers. 3 different cables. my gooood! its driving me nuts.
anything i can do without sourcing a battery or an external charger? not sure i can source one here and dont want to wait for an ebay one really.
Could be a dud battery at the end of the day. Dodgy batteries can cause all sorts of issues. One test is to try spinning the battery on a flat surface. If it spins, its expanding and faulty. Though this isn't the only sign of a dud battery.
RuffBuster said:
Could be a dud battery at the end of the day. Dodgy batteries can cause all sorts of issues. One test is to try spinning the battery on a flat surface. If it spins, its expanding and faulty. Though this isn't the only sign of a dud battery.
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already did that, not spinning. lets hope it is still a faulty battery