Database Users

Red led when trying to charge EDIT: multimeter readings required

When I try to charge my Universal the red led stays on and it does not power up. I didn't try to update, unlock,...
It seems like it died all of a sudden. I already tried a new batter, hard/soft-reset, keeping it on the charger all night, removing battery for over a week, using different chargers...
Is there something like a battery switch like the Magician has?
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: Does anyone have voltage readings from the batteries small pins?

Dunno what to tell you, mine goes red when the battery is compleatly drained, and stays red untill its about 5% charged.
It also happens if your battery isn't connected when you plug in, so you might want to make sure that the connections are clean and not lint covered or something.

thanks for your help! I tried this,but no effect at all.
I tried to read the voltages from my battery. It says 1,4V on the small pins and 4,18 on the big ones. 1,4 on the small ones seems a bit low. The service manual doesn't give any information about the small pins

Red LED and the device not turning on meant a hardware failure for me -- had to give it in for repair -- fixed within a day but beat my head to a pulp tryin to figure out what was wrong.

Troubleshooting - a500 won't charge - Is my power supply or tablet dead

As of last night my A500 will not charge. I left the device overnight and unfortunately now have Zero charge.
- My charger makes a noise, I think it always did, so I'm assuming the charger is OK.
Can anyone confirm that the chargers give off a kind of electrical buzz when working?
- I get no light at all on my A500. If the charger is OK I'm thinking something has gone within the tab, be that circuit or battery.
Any ideas or tips here?
- Sadly I do not have a multi-meter to test either the charger or the tab, no friends with a similar device, I've lost my proof or purchase (which is painful and rules out warranty), and am a bit stuck what to do.
Any ideas?
- I've heard/read that allowing the power to drop too low can cause a problem. Obviously Zero is bad in this case.
Can anyone confirm this rumour or suggest a fix?
- I did try entering recovery and resetting the battery stats - whether this made things worse or not is unclear - it certainly did not help.
ANY HELP OR IDEAS WELCOME (bear in mind that I have spent quite some time searching and trying other peoples' ideas already though.
Thanks,

ta-wan said:
As of last night my A500 will not charge. I left the device overnight and unfortunately now have Zero charge.
- My charger makes a noise, I think it always did, so I'm assuming the charger is OK.
Can anyone confirm that the chargers give off a kind of electrical buzz when working?
- I get no light at all on my A500. If the charger is OK I'm thinking something has gone within the tab, be that circuit or battery.
Any ideas or tips here?
- Sadly I do not have a multi-meter to test either the charger or the tab, no friends with a similar device, I've lost my proof or purchase (which is painful and rules out warranty), and am a bit stuck what to do.
Any ideas?
- I've heard/read that allowing the power to drop too low can cause a problem. Obviously Zero is bad in this case. Y
Can anyone confirm this rumour or suggest a fix?
- I did try entering recovery and resetting the battery stats - whether this made things worse or not is unclear - it certainly did not help.
ANY HELP OR IDEAS WELCOME (bear in mind that I have spent quite some time searching and trying other peoples' ideas already though.
Thanks,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quit guessing and get the charger checked

In reply to myself and to help those with a similar issue.
Yes a charger my buzz when good OR bad. The trick to seeing whether it is working or not (aside from it charging the pad) is to see if it gets warm -- no warmth, probably broken.
As for measuring with a multimeter the trick is to insert a paper clip into the small hole in the plug and measure the voltage between the outer plug (negative) and the paperclip (linked to the positive). Few multimeters have pins that will fit inside the super tiny plug on the A500 charger so the paperclip is your way in - obviously be sure not to short circuit the thing!
There are many chargers available out there. In Australia Jay-Car and **** Smith both have perfect chargers, the correct type, voltage, amps etc, they even come with multiple pins -- sadly none fit the A500!
My solution was to go to Infinity who are a provider of Acer spare parts. They have the correct charger and are easy to deal with BUT -- It's not cheap! They want $40 for the charger and a further $30 for the little bit on the end that gives the plug its nationality. In most cases we do not need this though as we can reuse our old one, but hey, not cheap all the same.
Still, it works and I'd rather be ripped off than get the wrong thing and blow the mother board.
NOTE: if you do get a charger from anyone other than Acer or a supplier of theirs - be sure to match every detail of your current charger - especially polarity.

I had problems with charging on my A500. When I plugged in the charger the power button would turn orange for a few seconds and then start flashing white.
I took the back cover off and found that the wire to the centre pin of the power connector on the tablet had almost broken off. I touched it lightly and it came away. Re-soldering the wire fixed the problem, it now charges as expected.
After fixing it I measured the charge current. It starts at a small value for a few seconds and then jumps to full charge rate. It seems there was enough of a connection to handle the small current but as soon as it switched to full charge current the voltage drop across the remains of the connection was too much and charging stopped.

Charging problem
I too just experienced the no charging problem. I looked up how to open up the tablet and tried to trouble shoot the problem myself. My problem turned out to be a very easy fix. The Posative lead on the back of the charger port had come loose, a simple touch of the soldering iron and its fixed. I thought since I had it open I might as well go ahead and change the battery too since it was 4 years old. Its an old tablet and time to turn it into a hand me down for a lucky niece or nephew

[Q] Nook Simple Touch - DOA Wont charge/turn on

Got a new nook simple touch- charged in for 24 hours - will not power up- has the same screen all the time "fully charge before first use".
Tried 4 different charges, cables and different PC's. Contacted Barnes & Noble support - talked me through all various software resets pressing buttons - nothing worked - then told me take it back to store. I cannot return the thing as live outside uk.
I have tried removing the battery by taking the thing apart , leaving battery disconnected for a few hours - reconnecting it but nothing works.
The LED light is always green when plugged into charger, from what i gather it should be orange when charging?
The battery also does not seem to be heating up when charging, i have touched it a few times to test its stone cold
Nothing happens when connected to PC either.
Does anyone know any reset procedure that i can try please as i am getting to the stage of throwing this thing into the bin?
it may just be a bad unit

If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.

Renate NST said:
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks i do have a voltmeter but there is no red black lead, there are 6 wires as in the image attached, do you know what the six wires are or is there anyway to find a pinout from them so i could meter it?
There's no other tricks to reset the battery is there i have heard sometimes the battery needs to be left unconnected for a few hours then reconnected but that didn't do nothing for me
Thanks

I see red, I see black.
The two red wires on the connector are positive.
The two black leads on the connector are negative.
The yellow and the green are for the thermistor to measure battery temperature.

A truly frozen Nook.
I finally got around to investigating fully the whole battery wiring on the Nook.
Some people have expressed interest in running a Nook without a battery.
Removing the battery and using USB power does not work.
As stated above, of the 6 wires, the two red are positive and the two black are negative.
The green wire is a battery ID.
This is a 30K ohm resistance to ground to indicate that the battery is plugged in.
The yellow wire is for battery temperature.
This is a NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) thermistor.
It has a resistance of about 10K ohms at room temperature, decreasing as the temperature goes up.
You can run your Nook without the yellow wire (thermistor).
(The battery temperature will be off.)
You do need the green wire (battery ID) to get the Nook to power.
If you want to run your Nook without a battery,
connect a 30K from green to ground (27K seems to work fine) and
connect a 10K from yellow to ground (just to be nice) and
feed the V+ battery with around 4V.
You might try feeding that with a diode voltage drop off the USB connector.
(I didn't try that.)
The screen shot indicates -40C for open and +40C for 5K ohms.
(Thanks to 160thehaven for the photo. I have no macro lens.)

Renate NST said:
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
okay close to throwing this thing away, the light is always green. I think the battery is not charging. even though when plugged in i seem to be getting a voltage swing on the red and black wires.
Should i measure the voltage across the red and black wires when booting up the nook? with the usb disconnected

To make life easy, grab the ground off the metal cage for the SD card.
What's the voltage on the red with no USB connection?
When you connect the Nook to your PC does it ever say, "Found new device OMAP3630"?
The question, is the processor powering up at all?
Is it doing the primary bootloader?
Is it doing the secondary bootloader?
If you had a kernel console, it might tell you what's up.
Just for yucks, what's the voltage on the yellow and green test points?
Does it pulse every few seconds?

his eedolsi
Renate NST said:
To make life easy, grab the ground off the metal cage for the SD card.
What's the voltage on the red with no USB connection? i will test this now
When you connect the Nook to your PC does it ever say, "Found new device OMAP3630"?
yes it does and it looks for the driver and keeps connecting and reconnecting
The question, is the processor powering up at all? how would i know this
Is it doing the primary bootloader? how would i know this
Is it doing the secondary bootloader? how would i know this
If you had a kernel console, it might tell you what's up.
Just for yucks, what's the voltage on the yellow and green test points?
Does it pulse every few seconds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes when plugged in the light is solid green but then pulses orange every few seconds

160thehaven said:
yes when plugged in the light is solid green but then pulses orange every few seconds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I was asking if the green and yellow test points pulse.
What's the voltage on them?

Mdevai 155
Renate NST said:
Oh, I was asking if the green and yellow test points pulse.
What's the voltage on them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i give up no voltage anywhere, i think the battery is defective
thanks for you help its going to go in scrap heap- only useful debug feature it does is flash the orange light the odd time when connected to charger- prob means something to barnes and noble
im sorry i purchased this

Aw, don't give up so easily.
I hate an unsolved mystery.
You're sure that your voltmeter is working correctly?
You can't measure anything from the V+ test point to the SD card metal frame?
There's no way to exchange it with B&N?
If you are really giving up, I'll take a look/keep it/fix it/return it/something.
Send me a PM for details.

I'm actually having the same problem. It started a couple of days ago. I tried using this method (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813384) and I was able to at least boot it. However, after only one day (without using it much) it started failing again and now when I use that trick it lasts a few minutes.
I will try measuring the battery voltage and I wonder if it would be a good idea to try to re-root it. However, I don't know if I should try in case it freezes half way through the flashing and I end up with a nice black brick.
I think this issue is happening quite a lot. I hope we can all work together to find a solution.
--Update--
I checked the voltage on the battery and it shows 40mV. So it's definitely depleted. However, when I do the trick and manage to boot the device, it says that the battery is 100% charged and the green LED is on. Conclusion, the device is preventing the battery from getting charged :/ Any ideas how to fix this? Is there any other way I can charge the battery?

40 mV?
If your voltmeter is working and on the correct place, then your battery is way dead, as in broken.
We can argue about whether you should discharge Li ion to 3.5 V, 3.3 V, 3.0 or even 2.5V,
but if any time it's reading a lot less than that, then you have a deceased battery.
If it's open or high resistance, a charging circuit can take it up to 4.1 V easily.
It would show as 100% charged but have no actual charge to backup that statistic.
It's interesting, because the BQ24072 should be able to power up the Nook without a battery.
I think it's that pesky MSP430F2272 that is not allowing the Nook to go on without a battery.
This calls for more experimenting!

Renate NST said:
40 mV?
If your voltmeter is working and on the correct place, then your battery is way dead, as in broken.
We can argue about whether you should discharge Li ion to 3.5 V, 3.3 V, 3.0 or even 2.5V,
but if any time it's reading a lot less than that, then you have a deceased battery.
If it's open or high resistance, a charging circuit can take it up to 4.1 V easily.
It would show as 100% charged but have no actual charge to backup that statistic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all thank you for your help.
Maybe I measured it wrong?... I was checking the voltage between the red cable (or so I think) and the metallic frame where you put the micro SD card. I also checked it from there to the black cable and it said 0 V, as I was expecting.
Renate NST said:
It's interesting, because the BQ24072 should be able to power up the Nook without a battery.
I think it's that pesky MSP430F2272 that is not allowing the Nook to go on without a battery.
This calls for more experimenting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely! I'm up for it!

Look, Ma, no battery!
The Nook seems pretty idiosyncratic how it will turn on.
I was trying to make it work just USB powered.
At the least, that gives the people with battery problems a reference point.
On the photo above there are two points labelled "V+ Battery.
Solder the cathode (the stripey end) of a 1N4001 (or better) diode to one of these points.
Connect the anode of the diode to the red wire of a spare, gutted USB cable.
Connect the black wire of the USB cable to the gold border on the circuit board.
Plug in the USB cable. The Nook should boot.
I've tried just stealing the 5V off the Nook's USB connector, but the Nook refuses to boot when both the USB and battery come up at the same time.
The ID and the thermistor circuits don't seem to be that necessary.

i have same DOA device (Simple Touch with Glowlight) , wont power on , green led on usb charger or pc usb cable , quickly reappeared 3630 omap device in device manager when pressed power button
i disassembled device - accu show 2.4v , i recharged accu in turnigy charger - it normally charged about 3 hours and show capacity 1550mah but when i connected it back to the nook it wont power up again and same green light on charger and usb cable , i try all reset combinations - no luck

It is possible for your battery to accept current, charge and still not be able to supply any current.
This would be the case if the charge circuit is working but the discharge circuit is open.
Did you measure the battery voltage after charging?
Can you measure it with some sort of load on it?
50 to 100 ohms would be fine.
If anybody has gotten far enough to tear a battery down any identifying photos of the battery protection module would be appreciated.

i find another working nook (without glow) , tomorrow i check battery (but battery is ok - i try it in charger . internal resistance is low an discharge on 1A corrent is ok )
but now i solder wires from regulated power supply to battery tp - i find nook consumption is 160 mA current on 4.2 v supply and it reacted on power button - if i press pw about 20 - 30 sec is 0 ma current press again and 160 mA still here

battery is ok . screen is ok , mainboard is not ok
working nook eat 150 mA current on start , working nook not start when regulated power supply connected on battery tp - press power button , 150 mA . depress button - 0mA

replaced mainboard ( from nook gl with broken screen) - all working ok

Need help troubleshooting, dead rk3066 tablet

Hello,
I need help with my new tablet.
Model is Allfine Fine10 Yoy.
Specs:
Rockchip RK3066, 1.6GHz, Cortex A9 dual core; GPU: Mali 400 MP4
Android 4.1
1GB (DDR3)
16GB Nand Flash
10.1 Inch / IPS
Battery: 7800mAh
It is not so old, about 5 months. Few days ago I have left it to charge overnight (it usually takes 4-5 hours to charge so I always charge it overnight) and in the morning it could not turn on. It is dead, no signs of life. I checked maybe it did not charge, so I changed power socket and tried again.
I can not charge it via USB so I can't test that.
There is not sign of life when connected to PC, adb list's no devices.
There is no sign of life after holding power/lock button for a long time and there is not signs after holding restart button.
It came factory rooted, I've never updated/flashed or anything.
I have not noticed any troubles so far, no lags, no freezing, no overheating.
Are you familiar with debug method for this kind of tablet?
What should I do, what test to make?
Can you help me debug this, please.
Thank you.

cheap china tablets are easy to open up. just pry the back cover off carefully and put a volt meter on the battery. its probably dead.
check your power supply first, it might have croaked too.

Would it be possible to run tablet with removed battery, straight off adapter to check is it working?

mrnjau said:
Would it be possible to run tablet with removed battery, straight off adapter to check is it working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly, at least some part of startup.
Most device processors will start up if they notice power coming from somewhere.
At some point try will try to access the state and source of power.
If they notices that the battery is really dead (that is, the power is only from USB) they will shut down and go into charge-only mode.
It may be more likely that your battery is charged and the processor got wedged somehow.
Disconnect from USB, open the back, disconnect the battery and reconnect it.

Renate NST said:
Possibly, at least some part of startup.
Most device processors will start up if they notice power coming from somewhere.
At some point try will try to access the state and source of power.
If they notices that the battery is really dead (that is, the power is only from USB) they will shut down and go into charge-only mode.
It may be more likely that your battery is charged and the processor got wedged somehow.
Disconnect from USB, open the back, disconnect the battery and reconnect it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply,
I've precedeed as you sugested.
Solder is pretty hard on battery connection, so I unsoldered just one (negative wire, red one) and pluged it to charger and try to start it. I undsolderd just one because I don't want heat to ruin something and I guessed it should be enough to try this.
It still shows no signs of life.
However I've noticed something, when re-soldering red wire I have noticed that there is a spark when wire is near the solder point. So, there is some power in battery.
Any idea how to proceed? I still don't have multimeter to test battery voltage so that will have to wait.
Thanks once again.

Oh, sorry, I thought that the battery was on a connector.
That makes life easier than soldering.
The red wire(s) are always the positive.
The black wire(s) are always the negative (ground).
Any other color wires on a battery are thermistor, id sense or communication.
Yes, finding/borrowing a voltmeter is the next step.

Renate NST said:
Oh, sorry, I thought that the battery was on a connector.
That makes life easier than soldering.
The red wire(s) are always the positive.
The black wire(s) are always the negative (ground).
Any other color wires on a battery are thermistor, id sense or communication.
Yes, finding/borrowing a voltmeter is the next step.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Renate, I hope you still follow this topic.
I'm sorry for 2 months without updates, I've waited for some time for parts from China.
So, what have I done so far...
1) Get multimeter.
2) Test battery.
Battery is designated as 3.7V, however output is 4.15 - 4.16 V.
I've presumed this is fine.
3) Test the charger.
Charger is designated on 5V and 3A. I've tested voltage, it is fine. However ampers dance between 0.5A and 3.5A. I've presumed that charger is faulty, so I've ordered new one. Generic 5V, 3A charger.
4) Put it back together, re-solder the battery and connect charger. Test again.
Voltage on battery connectory is same as before - 4.15V.
After 20min there is no change in battery temperature (source: my fingers), however power jack where new charger is connected is getting warm, but not too warm.
Tried to power it on, no signs of life. Tried holding restart button for forewer, no sign of life.
I'm out of ideas.

3 Amps is a heck of a charger.
Where did that come from? Is it stock?
You have a little round coaxial connector for the charging input on the tablet?
There's no reason that it should be drawing 3 amps or anything getting warm.
The battery is fully charged.
There could be a high resistance in the battery protection module so that it looks charged but can't actually supply any current when called upon.
There's a USB connector on this too?
And nothing appears when you connect a USB cable to it?
I wouldn't expect ADB, but maybe a bootloader.
Run devmgmt.msc when plugging it in and see if anything at all shows up.

Renate NST said:
3 Amps is a heck of a charger.
Where did that come from? Is it stock?
You have a little round coaxial connector for the charging input on the tablet?
There's no reason that it should be drawing 3 amps or anything getting warm.
The battery is fully charged.
There could be a high resistance in the battery protection module so that it looks charged but can't actually supply any current when called upon.
There's a USB connector on this too?
And nothing appears when you connect a USB cable to it?
I wouldn't expect ADB, but maybe a bootloader.
Run devmgmt.msc when plugging it in and see if anything at all shows up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stock charger is 3A, so I bought with indetical specs. My research showed that a lot of chinese tabs use 3A chargers (Ainol Hero, etc..)
Yes, charger connector is 2.5mm "needle".
Some 30min after I posted this area around connector and speaker on motherboard got very very hot, I almost injured myself by touching it. So I've disconnected it.
No, nothing on USB. I've mentioned it in my first post, there are no signs of life on adb. Or "dmesg", which should list something even if device was bricked.

Um, are you sure that the polarity of the supply is correct?
For coaxial plugs the center is usually positive.
If it got that hot you probably have blown something.

Renate NST said:
Um, are you sure that the polarity of the supply is correct?
For coaxial plugs the center is usually positive.
If it got that hot you probably have blown something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/2000mah-Adapt...6-6172141?ie=UTF8&refRID=1AED4Q5XRX7QS8JJ91Y9
This is that kind of power connector, 2.5mm. Are we talking about the same thing? Is is possible for this kind of connectors to have non-standard polarity.
Maybe nothing is blown, I would smell that. Maybe there just hi resistance somewhere along the line.

Well, if it's the same charger and it used to charge then the polarity must be ok.
Still, something is not happy.
You should have been able to get it working with just the battery.
The DC input should not be getting hot.
I can only say so much from this distance.

Renate NST said:
Well, if it's the same charger and it used to charge then the polarity must be ok.
Still, something is not happy.
You should have been able to get it working with just the battery.
The DC input should not be getting hot.
I can only say so much from this distance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't find any info on ampers and battery. I can't measure any amps coming out of battery, that's strange. I don't know much about this but should not battery put up some ampers?
Yeah, I understand that DC port should not get hot. Only 2 options.
1) Charger (the new one) is putting up too much electricity, to many amps that is.
2) There is something faulty on DC port or around it and causes too much resistance and thus heat.

Overheat and not working properly (or not at all)

My Galaxy s5 g900f overheats with anything i do, it overheated in recovery while i was trying to do a nandroid restore, it overheats while charging (turned off), it overheats when i turn it on, i see the samsung s5 animated logo altough very laggy, and when it turns on i enter my sim password and all i see is the notification bar and the rest is a black screen nothing works whatever i do.
When i say overheat i mean the screen and the upper back of the phone are hot, it all happens in a matter of a few minutes.
The CPU got upto 73C while i was doing the nandroid restore.
I got the stock charger and cable, never changed any hardware inside the phone is everything is genuine.
I am running Xtresto lite ROM for the past 4-5 months with no problems. (So i guess it's not the rom?)
Please help.
Thanks in advance.
edit: i've got it on the charger now and it's off and just noticed that the phone is discharging although it shows that is charging, it only charged up to a point i guess and now it is falling while on the charger on the wall

charging will be hotter than unplugged actually, also in my experience within TWRP with its temperature on screen, i also reached 70 degrees simply going through menus... which means there is no cpu idle state without a kernel/rom
so... are you able to run a temperature monitor (maybe with kernel adiutor) or is the whole thing going to freeze or shut down? there is supposed to be thermal throttling depending on kernel & if some parameters have been turned off (you can see them in kernel adiutor)
hopefully it's just some app failing or malware, not a hardware failure... is the phone allowed to turn on while usb plugged in WITHOUT battery? are you willing to wipe the OS? i'm not sure you got your nandroid backup completed (also i have no experience with that... i used TWRP to backup but never tried restoring when i moved from CM12 to CM13, my internal storage was untouched anyway)
edit: just reread your off+charging situation... is this a 2A charger that you know has been able to quickly charge in the past? (like, 0 to 70% in only an hour)
have you inspected the battery, its metal contacts, & the phone's metal contacts for the battery?

kn00tcn said:
charging will be hotter than unplugged actually, also in my experience within TWRP with its temperature on screen, i also reached 70 degrees simply going through menus... which means there is no cpu idle state without a kernel/rom
so... are you able to run a temperature monitor (maybe with kernel adiutor) or is the whole thing going to freeze or shut down? there is supposed to be thermal throttling depending on kernel & if some parameters have been turned off (you can see them in kernel adiutor)
hopefully it's just some app failing or malware, not a hardware failure... is the phone allowed to turn on while usb plugged in WITHOUT battery? are you willing to wipe the OS? i'm not sure you got your nandroid backup completed (also i have no experience with that... i used TWRP to backup but never tried restoring when i moved from CM12 to CM13, my internal storage was untouched anyway)
edit: just reread your off+charging situation... is this a 2A charger that you know has been able to quickly charge in the past? (like, 0 to 70% in only an hour)
have you inspected the battery, its metal contacts, & the phone's metal contacts for the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the reply
No, i cant run any app because as soon as i get in the os its just the notification bar and a black screen, my apps flicker for a second once in a while but there is no way of using the phone, not even in safe mode.
No, the phone can't run without a battery and am pretty sure every phone is like this. You need the battery plugged in for it to work whatsoever.
I have no choice but to wipe the os and reinstall it i backed up everything i could and possible.
This is indeed a 2A charger, it's the original samsung charger that came with the phone. The metal contacts seem fine and the battery is fine. It's not the battery that overheats it's the rest of the phone. When the phone is hot i removed the battery to check if it was the source of the heat and it wasn't.
edit: the battery is draining fast! i can't even charge it, it loses battery while on charger too (the phone is off)
edit 2: i made it until the wipe, then i went to install my rom and it turned off before i reached the point of flashing (thank god) and i guess its draining so fast i cant charge it

Maybe an external battery charger might help to at least give it sine juice to install stock. I'm sure the kernel is linked to charging while powered off. So fingers crossed its a software issue, though this those sound kind of worrying behaviour. External battery chargers can be bought quite cheaply of eBay. I bought a USB battery dock and a better quality male to male USB cable as provided one is crap, and use it with my original Samsung charger. Don't trust the wall plug in types as their all made in China... Best of luck.

rockon92 said:
Hi, thanks for the reply
No, i cant run any app because as soon as i get in the os its just the notification bar and a black screen, my apps flicker for a second once in a while but there is no way of using the phone, not even in safe mode.
No, the phone can't run without a battery and am pretty sure every phone is like this. You need the battery plugged in for it to work whatsoever.
I have no choice but to wipe the os and reinstall it i backed up everything i could and possible.
This is indeed a 2A charger, it's the original samsung charger that came with the phone. The metal contacts seem fine and the battery is fine. It's not the battery that overheats it's the rest of the phone. When the phone is hot i removed the battery to check if it was the source of the heat and it wasn't.
edit: the battery is draining fast! i can't even charge it, it loses battery while on charger too (the phone is off)
edit 2: i made it until the wipe, then i went to install my rom and it turned off before i reached the point of flashing (thank god) and i guess its draining so fast i cant charge it
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geeze, well it does sound like 100% cpu usage... like those bitcoin mining malware
i would try to flash a fresh replacement or stock kernel+bootloader+baseband with root disabled using odin or something, we need to prove that the software is clean
as for the temperature, if it's winter where you are... get the phone some cold air (edit: by the way, lower temperature means lower wattage... only problem is battery capacity might also appear lower, so it's only good for being wired)

RuffBuster said:
Maybe an external battery charger might help to at least give it sine juice to install stock. I'm sure the kernel is linked to charging while powered off. So fingers crossed its a software issue, though this those sound kind of worrying behaviour. External battery chargers can be bought quite cheaply of eBay. I bought a USB battery dock and a better quality male to male USB cable as provided one is crap, and use it with my original Samsung charger. Don't trust the wall plug in types as their all made in China... Best of luck.
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I will have a look into an external charger or look if someone can lend me their battery to test. Happy to know that the kernel is linked to charging, i still have my hopes to software!
kn00tcn said:
geeze, well it does sound like 100% cpu usage... like those bitcoin mining malware
i would try to flash a fresh replacement or stock kernel+bootloader+baseband with root disabled using odin or something, we need to prove that the software is clean
as for the temperature, if it's winter where you are... get the phone some cold air (edit: by the way, lower temperature means lower wattage... only problem is battery capacity might also appear lower, so it's only good for being wired)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where do i find those files for odin? sammobile? yeah it's winter my issue now is that it is completely dead it's not responding when i connect it to the charger at all. I tried 2 original samsung chargers. 3 different cables. my gooood! its driving me nuts.
anything i can do without sourcing a battery or an external charger? not sure i can source one here and dont want to wait for an ebay one really.

Could be a dud battery at the end of the day. Dodgy batteries can cause all sorts of issues. One test is to try spinning the battery on a flat surface. If it spins, its expanding and faulty. Though this isn't the only sign of a dud battery.

RuffBuster said:
Could be a dud battery at the end of the day. Dodgy batteries can cause all sorts of issues. One test is to try spinning the battery on a flat surface. If it spins, its expanding and faulty. Though this isn't the only sign of a dud battery.
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already did that, not spinning. lets hope it is still a faulty battery