hi, i have accedentally fried my audiojack by connecting it to a 20v CURRENTsource. and yes it fried the audio jack or other components, and now my my works still fine, only the audio jack stoppped working, only with high volumes and the sound is very cracky with a lot of noise, can i fix this by just replacing the 3.5 jack module?
Hey, you posted in the wrong section, but ouch about your problem. Something similar happened to me with an iphone and the connector was just fine, it was the circuit board that was damaged, and the phone needed a whole motherboard replacement.
Maybe your backup solution will be playing audio through USB with an OTG cable and a portable DAC. I think it only works on some CM11 roms, never tried it myself.
There's a thread about it on this forum : http://www.head-fi.org/t/667838/samsung-galaxy-s4-compatible-portable-dac-amps/120
That or bluetooth.
Hi, yeah you should be able to replace it, found the part on eBay: Here
This video at 4:28 shows where it goes Youtube
Good luck!
cedric123 said:
hi, i have accedentally fried my audiojack by connecting it to a 20v CURRENTsource. and yes it fried the audio jack or other components, and now my my works still fine, only the audio jack stoppped working, only with high volumes and the sound is very cracky with a lot of noise, can i fix this by just replacing the 3.5 jack module?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacing the port is easy. But the port is almost certainly not damaged. Its just metal. Metal doesn't mind a 20v current.
Its likely the board the port is attached to is fried at that point. That is much harder to repair, if it can be done at all.
can it be that just the connector to the plug is damaged? because i can play music on speaker fine
cedric123 said:
can it be that just the connector to the plug is damaged? because i can play music on speaker fine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can it be? Sure. Anything can happen.
The likelihood of it is very low though. The connector plug is nothing other than a metal hole with a bent price of metal inside that puts pressure on an inserted plug. There are some plastic insulator prices in there as well. But that is it. Its not a complex design, just metal and plastic.
You could put 500 volts through that plug without hurting the physical plug itself. Voltage isn't harsh to metal or plastic. Metal can handle it. Plastic doesn't even know high voltage is there. Now high amperage would fry the physical socket by overheating the metal to its melting point, but I would doubt that whatever 20v source you had a 3.5mm plug hooked into was producing high amperage. Even if you had it plugged directly into your home's wall socket the plug socket itself could handle it. You'd have to have hooked the socket up to a car battery to physically fry the socket.
Keep in mind that you could plug a million volts into the plug socket itself and not fry it because the plug wouldn't draw a ton of current. The receiving end of an electrical circuit determines how much amperage is drawn. You can't force amperage into a circuit, only voltage. Amperage is all determined by what is plugged in. (You can plug a vacuum cleaner into a wall socket and the socket will have 12 amps of power. But plug a desk lamp into the same socket and it will draw less than 1amp)
Now if the socket itself had an electrical short that would cause a larger amperage draw that could fry the metal itself or at least overheat it until the plastic insulators melted. But again you would have to plug it into a wall socket for that kind of power. It's unlikely that whatever was giving you 20v to a 3.5mm cable had any capability to produce amperage high enough to break the socket itself.
Also, if the socket itself did get fried you would know it without question. It would have made a nasty spark, smelled like burning, and the whole phone would probably not be working at all right now.
High voltage by itself though, without heavy amperage, can EASILY fry the circuit board components near the plug socket. And that wouldn't affect your speaker at all because the speaker is on the other side of the phone on a completely separate circuit board.
Skipjacks said:
Can it be? Sure. Anything can happen.
The likelihood of it is very low though. The connector plug is nothing other than a metal hole with a bent price of metal inside that puts pressure on an inserted plug. There are some plastic insulator prices in there as well. But that is it. Its not a complex design, just metal and plastic.
You could put 500 volts through that plug without hurting the physical plug itself. Voltage isn't harsh to metal or plastic. Metal can handle it. Plastic doesn't even know high voltage is there. Now high amperage would fry the physical socket by overheating the metal to its melting point, but I would doubt that whatever 20v source you had a 3.5mm plug hooked into was producing high amperage. Even if you had it plugged directly into your home's wall socket the plug socket itself could handle it. You'd have to have hooked the socket up to a car battery to physically fry the socket.
Keep in mind that you could plug a million volts into the plug socket itself and not fry it because the plug wouldn't draw a ton of current. The receiving end of an electrical circuit determines how much amperage is drawn. You can't force amperage into a circuit, only voltage. Amperage is all determined by what is plugged in. (You can plug a vacuum cleaner into a wall socket and the socket will have 12 amps of power. But plug a desk lamp into the same socket and it will draw less than 1amp)
Now if the socket itself had an electrical short that would cause a larger amperage draw that could fry the metal itself or at least overheat it until the plastic insulators melted. But again you would have to plug it into a wall socket for that kind of power. It's unlikely that whatever was giving you 20v to a 3.5mm cable had any capability to produce amperage high enough to break the socket itself.
Also, if the socket itself did get fried you would know it without question. It would have made a nasty spark, smelled like burning, and the whole phone would probably not be working at all right now.
High voltage by itself though, without heavy amperage, can EASILY fry the circuit board components near the plug socket. And that wouldn't affect your speaker at all because the speaker is on the other side of the phone on a completely separate circuit board.
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Click to collapse
thanks for the answer, i used a source with charged capacitors(i hadnt got a soldering iron to fix my phone, so i melted the wires with a high current which worked, only i removed the 0 wire from the broken earphones before the 20v wire),yes very stupid, but i opened my phone, no visible damage, i saw a spark when it happend but i am happy it didnt do any more damage, i will buy a bluetooth headphone.
Related
Just in case someone finds this useful. I spent several hours searching and couldn't find this, so I had to figure it out myself!
For fun I bought a broken Evo 4g on Craigslist. It's USB port was violently ripped off, taking with it at least one layer of PCB substrate. Using a multimeter, I was able to find some new places to solder to. I attached some 30AWG wire and epoxied on a new port, and the phone is good to go!
The D+/D- goes to what appears to be a dual package 4 ohm resistor. I messed up a couple times trying to solder it and one of the resistors stopped working, so I ended up just removing the resistors and soldering to the pads on the other side. The resistors aren't important, and USB works just fine.
Damn bro, slightly impressive, my hardware skills are beyond lacking.
This is why you need a temperature-controlled soldering iron, SMT components are very sensitive to heat since they don't have leads to dissipate any of it.
I'm not sure what those resistors were there for, but I wonder if you could pull some numbers off and cross them to someone from DigiKey. Given how manufacturers pinch every penny, I can't see them throwing on cost if it's unnecessary.
But then again, if it works, I guess that's good enough too haha.
I've given serious thought to starting a small business buying and repairing phones, seeing how easily most consumers give up on them when even the simplest repairs are needed.
Oh don't worry, I had a temperature controlled iron. The issue was that I had a cup of coffee an hour before attempting to solder.
We are talking about a 1mm square component, so no part number. A reference USB circuit design has 20-30 ohm resistors in series with the D+ and D- lines before they run into the USB transceiver (built into the snapdragon CPU), so I'm not sure why there were these 4 ohm diddles. Maybe they were the cheapest. The phone probably won't survive a lightning strike now, or the USB won't work if there are sunspots. USB is pretty robust.
If you have prior knowledge of the circuits, then I can see an exotic repair business being successful. Not having access to the design, though, I spent way more time than it was worth fixing the USB port. It was more of a fun after-work activity. The previous owner also abused it rather heavily, so even though I got it functioning again I would feel bad trying to resell it for much more than what I paid for it!
Has anyone thought about stuffing the touchstone coil into the nexus4? It sounds stupid i know since the n4 already has wireless charging built in, but the chargers are expensive and hard to find while the touchstone chargers are cheap and plentiful.
peachpuff said:
Has anyone thought about stuffing the touchstone coil into the nexus4? It sounds stupid i know since the n4 already has wireless charging built in, but the chargers are expensive and hard to find while the touchstone chargers are cheap and plentiful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Qi protocol requires that the receiver send a handshake to the transmitter to start charging. If a non-Qi device is on the plate, then it will do a start and stop every 20 sec to poll for the signal. I am working on changing the Touchstone coil to a Qi transmitter coil and see what happens. I received the Qi coil, Qi inductive charging sleeve (for testing) and waiting on a Palm touchstone sleeve. My concern is that the touchstone without the Qi communication on charging status may overheat the N4 if it doesn't stop the power transmission properly.
terracode said:
My concern is that the touchstone without the Qi communication on charging status may overheat the N4 if it doesn't stop the power transmission properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
People have put touchstone coil's in other phones and had no issues, i don't see how it would be any different here. There are 4 contact points that connect the qi coil and nfc on the rear cover, attach the touchstone coil to 2 of them and hope you can close the cover with everything inside.
peachpuff said:
People have put touchstone coil's in other phones and had no issues, i don't see how it would be any different here. There are 4 contact points that connect the qi coil and nfc on the rear cover, attach the touchstone coil to 2 of them and hope you can close the cover with everything inside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He's doing the opposite; he's replacing the coil in the touchstone charger with a QI charging coil.
I connected the Qi compliant coil to the Touchstone board and it didn't recognize the Qi receiver so it didn't start energy transfer. I then moved the thin wire coil that the Touchston uses to sense a Palm Receiver to above the Qi coil. The transmitter didn't start with a Qi receiver, but did recognize the Palm receiver and started energizing the coil. Issue was the voltage was very low due to the mismatched coils (Qi transmitter and TS receiver). I need to take apart the Touchstone receiver to see what it uses to activate the transmitter. More tinkering is needed.
I think QI controls the charging level from the phone, by communicating back to the charger. It may not be a good idea to disable this mechanism by swithing a charge coil on manually (though I'd think that the phone would not charge at all, then).
If you want to try, I think QI uses 141 KHz. Supply that to a coil at the correct power and see if it charges.
jutezak said:
I think QI controls the charging level from the phone, by communicating back to the charger. It may not be a good idea to disable this mechanism by swithing a charge coil on manually (though I'd think that the phone would not charge at all, then).
If you want to try, I think QI uses 141 KHz. Supply that to a coil at the correct power and see if it charges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am actually doing the opposite. The Qi coil is on the transmit side attached to the touchstone charger power board. I need a way of sending a proper signal to the Palm Touchstone so that it energizes the coil. The Qi receiver doesn't have the proper interface to send a signal to the Touchstone to power up.
$50 is hardly expensive.... Wall Mart wanted $50 for a plug in travel charger for my galaxy tablet. Just find the lg one.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Qi coil
terracode said:
I am actually doing the opposite. The Qi coil is on the transmit side attached to the touchstone charger power board. I need a way of sending a proper signal to the Palm Touchstone so that it energizes the coil. The Qi receiver doesn't have the proper interface to send a signal to the Touchstone to power up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So are you able to replace the qi coil successfully to TS?
For someone who want's multiple docks around, $50 does add up. For someone like me who has 2 or more touchstone chargers laying around from previous mods/palm phones this would be useful.
I've tried to do the following to my Nexus 4, but couldn't get off the back cover without damaging the phone (I could get everything but one corner of the phone to pop open, I noticed I was beginning to damage the body a bit and stopped trying).
Mind you, the following needs to be used with a case; works best with rugged cases/hard cases.
If anyone is able to open their phone up you can try my following idea:
1. Remove the back of the phone
2..There should be 4 pins, 2 for NFC, and 2 for the QI coil.
3. Use a voltmeter to find out which pin is positive and which is negative.
-- I am not sure if the touchstone coil could fit INSIDE the phone, so I assumed it would not fit, and came up with this solution--
4. Using copper tape (if you've modded your GNEX before, you probably have some left over) stick it onto the pins, and lead them outside of the back cover, wrapping around so you see the copper tape on the OUTSIDE of the phone
5. Close the phone back up, the copper tape should now be hanging outside of the side of the phone.
6. Get your touchstone coil and tape/adhere it to the inside of your selected case.
7. Take your copper tape yet again and solder it to the leads of the touchstone coil, and position the copper tape so it touches the existing tape (from the nexus) when you put the case onto your phone.
That's it. The touchstone should be thin enough so that it doesn't interfere with the fitting of the case. This was the situation for my previous two mods with Galaxy Nexus's, the fit of the case was no problem. (Otterbox Commuter, and SGP Neo-Hybrid).
DDRFAN said:
For someone who want's multiple docks around, $50 does add up. For someone like me who has 2 or more touchstone chargers laying around from previous mods/palm phones this would be useful.
I've tried to do the following to my Nexus 4, but couldn't get off the back cover without damaging the phone (I could get everything but one corner of the phone to pop open, I noticed I was beginning to damage the body a bit and stopped trying).
Mind you, the following needs to be used with a case; works best with rugged cases/hard cases.
If anyone is able to open their phone up you can try my following idea:
1. Remove the back of the phone
2..There should be 4 pins, 2 for NFC, and 2 for the QI coil.
3. Use a voltmeter to find out which pin is positive and which is negative.
-- I am not sure if the touchstone coil could fit INSIDE the phone, so I assumed it would not fit, and came up with this solution--
4. Using copper tape (if you've modded your GNEX before, you probably have some left over) stick it onto the pins, and lead them outside of the back cover, wrapping around so you see the copper tape on the OUTSIDE of the phone
5. Close the phone back up, the copper tape should now be hanging outside of the side of the phone.
6. Get your touchstone coil and tape/adhere it to the inside of your selected case.
7. Take your copper tape yet again and solder it to the leads of the touchstone coil, and position the copper tape so it touches the existing tape (from the nexus) when you put the case onto your phone.
That's it. The touchstone should be thin enough so that it doesn't interfere with the fitting of the case. This was the situation for my previous two mods with Galaxy Nexus's, the fit of the case was no problem. (Otterbox Commuter, and SGP Neo-Hybrid).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was this simply the metal coil or the entire assembly including board from a Pre charging cover? very Interested as I have a Nexus 4 I will be receiving Monday
singularityq said:
Was this simply the metal coil or the entire assembly including board from a Pre charging cover? very Interested as I have a Nexus 4 I will be receiving Monday
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should only have to replace the metal coil.
OP, a simple google search would have sufficed http://www.webosnation.com/nexus-4-gains-touchstone-charging-thanks-clever-hacking
Can qi charging be retrofitted with those qi receivers?
Are there USB Type-C qi receivers yet?
Irellevant if you can't take the back off and tuck it away. Better off soldering it to the internal USB 5v VCC and ground.
Breadcrust said:
Irellevant if you can't take the back off and tuck it away. Better off soldering it to the internal USB 5v VCC and ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could also tuck it away between the smartphone and clip on hardcase for example.
How much force would I need to exert for the connector to break? I'm asking this because I've heard that the connector isn't replaceable without replacing the entire motherboard, and I'm a bit paranoid about it breaking:silly:. Thanks in advance!
p7810456 said:
How much force would I need to exert for the connector to break? I'm asking this because I've heard that the connector isn't replaceable without replacing the entire motherboard, and I'm a bit paranoid about it breaking:silly:. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Owned g3, g4 and now v20. Totally normal to ask about this. Even if you protect your phones with cases and tempered glasses, two primary weak spots remain: motherboard battery contacts wearing out and breaking off (happened to me on my G4) and USB-C troubles. As both the battery connector and the USB-C port are soldered onto the motherboard, even if your phone is under warranty, the only fix is installing a new motherboard, losing the data (back up your data often!) As I was explained in the service center, taking the parts off the motherboard and soldering the new ones back on (that's only if you have a donor motherboard or parts to begin with) results in heating the surrounding circuitry area to the temps of up to 400c, risking damaging the metal tracks (or ripping the seating metal pucks for the parts off the board altogether on removal).
Since the g4 mishap, my solution for effectively protecting the USB port from wear, pulling and yanking damage is the permanent (but easily removable) magnetic USB-C insert that lives in your phone all the time and has magnetic studs on the outside plane that the charging cord snaps to. There are several manufacturers of those on Amazon, none are perfect but any of them is better than using your port "raw" daily. WZKEN makes tangle-free USB-C cords with strong contact between the insert and the cord. The cords (at least in my case) support Qualcomm quick charge 2. When connected through a WZKEN cord, my Anker QC2 charger plug changes light from blue to green to indicate QC and my phone notifies me QC is on, so the QC handshake works as expected.
One thing though if you go the magnetic rout - order MORE inserts than cords, if your USB-C port is loose, the inserts might fall out every once in a while, you'll lose them. Also I haven't seen any magnetic cords with light indicators that change color when QC kicks in, all the light shows is that there's electricity in the port on the wall charger that your cord is connected to. Also, WZKEN cord heads snap to the inserts the right side up only, not on either side.
Whatever the quirks, beats the every day pounding that USB-C ports take by far, especially knowing v20 doesn't charge wirelessly! Inserts are small enough to fit into all port cutouts on all cases I have, so no problem there, either.
The solution is so simple that I charge most of the micro-USB and USB-C devices in my house this way.
p7810456 said:
How much force would I need to exert for the connector to break? I'm asking this because I've heard that the connector isn't replaceable without replacing the entire motherboard, and I'm a bit paranoid about it breaking:silly:. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very very hard.
Sent from my LG V20 using XDA Labs
Hi !
My K20 is dead now, even if I tested with the original battery which worked.
Please look at the photo.
It displays that at switch on, or nothing.
But I have a vibration.
Thanks for your help.
caperonjr said:
Hi !
My K20 is dead now, even if I tested with the original battery which worked.
Please look at the photo.
It displays that at switch on, or nothing.
But I have a vibration.
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same problem on my K30 after a screen replacement.
I don't understand why I can't power on more my phone since I unplug then replug the battery.
Loose or damaged ribbon connector or cable.
Damaged display matrix or mobo.
Out of circuit displays and mobos are suspectable to ESD damage on their I/O's as these are not ESD harden.
Each time, flex cables replaced.
Last time, I ordered a new mobo, and it was ok, but next battery disconnect and reconnect, same problem, every time.
3 new mobos for the K20 !!
I do something wrong, and I need to know what !
caperonjr said:
Each time, flex cables replaced.
Last time, I ordered a new mobo, and it was ok, but next battery disconnect and reconnect, same problem, every time.
3 new mobos for the K20 !!
I do something wrong, and I need to know what !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ESD... observe ESD protocols. Raise room humidity to at least 50%. Use a ESD mat or a bare wooden surface. Use a ESD wrist strap that's earth grounded. Wear cotton clothing. Avoid generation of static as much as possible.
I've seen techs grossly mishandled mobos in terms of no ESD protection and get away with it.
Your mobo maybe more sensitive. If you can sense the presence of static electricity it's already way more than enough to do real damage. You become aware of ESD at around 1000 volts; I/O's may only tolerate 25 volts or less of over voltage.
Make sure you reassemble it exactly as it was. Be very careful not to damage connector pins or the cables. Take your time and do it right.
Impossible.
I repair phones for a long time, and I caused an electric damage on an iphone the first time, because I unpluged the battery flex connector with a metalic hook !
Since, ESD wrist strap and never other damage.
And when it happens, it appeatrs a significative spark.
Then the problem isn't that.
caperonjr said:
Impossible.
I repair phones for a long time, and I caused an electric damage on an iphone the first time, because I unpluged the battery flex connector with a metalic hook !
Since, ESD wrist strap and never other damage.
And when it happens, it appeatrs a significative spark.
Then the problem isn't that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very possible. ESD damage can happen even with what you thought were adequate safeguards. Best not to touch the I/O's at all.
You can't sense 200 volts of static but simply rubbing two pieces of paper together can generate well over 400 volts. Even anti static plastics generate static, the charge dissipates faster though. I have a 3M ESD meter and played around with it quit a bit... it takes very little static electricity to blow through the insulator of a MOS gate.
Relative humidity is the most important factor to limiting ESD by increasing the static bleed off rate. I used conductive flooring in my shop as well. The whole work bench was ESD matted/earth grounded. Earth grounded static safe soldering irons. I was careful to discharge myself after moving around before touching sensitive components.
Then it's sure my mobo is dead ?
And very curious I have the same issue each time I open this phone, and never others...
caperonjr said:
Then it's sure my mobo is dead ?
And very curious I have the same issue each time I open this phone, and never others...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be you missed something when you reassembled it. Sometimes a longer screw or the frame are used as a ground return or otherwise missing ground pathway. If there was battery swelling that could have damaged the display or if the battery removal was too forceful.
Connector pins and ribbon cables are fragile if not properly handled.
It could be a few things causing this.