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I want to dissassemble my wizard for painting. (yes i really do). Has anyone taken it apart yet, or will I be the first?
people have taken it apart.. where's that thread, hmmm...
Ah, yes:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=31755
http://www.howardforums.com/showpost.php?p=6298030&postcount=27
http://www.pocketpcthoughts.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=377474
Not too much info, but there you go. If you do take yours apart, take lots of pictures - you'll be an instant hero
Most paints will wear off very quickly and maybe make it look a bit unsightly, do you have a particular paint in mind?
And yes - please take many pics and post back with details of the procedure.
Not necessarily...
If you use a lacquer based paint - it will "etch" itself into the plastic. IF you use enamel - yes, it will wear off quickly and most likely be "unsightly".
Make sure you steel wool it first to rough it up and sand between coats. When you are satisfied with the look - sand once again with very fine paper - like 600 grit or finer - then - spray with a couple of coats of clear. It will look great!
I use to run a guitar shop - building repairing and refinishing. This will take some time - but it will look great.
Shep
Sounds good.
Will be interested to see the results when fp has finished it.
Interested too
NO NO NO NO
I took my JAM apart to paint it, and it was never the same again. I HIGHLY recommend against this, you'll regret it.
Echilon, sorry to hear that mate...
i fink the standard silver face looks decent...(MDA)
Thing is... how did you take it apart? I mean without injuring the plastics.
Echilon said:
I took my JAM apart to paint it, and it was never the same again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In what way was it never the same again?
Hi Guys ,
I dissassemble my wizard tody ,I will post some pictures ,But I recommend not to do it ,as said (it will never the same again)
and if you insist to do it (THEN DO IT ON YOUR OWN RISK)
I just fixed the styles (It is not loose anymore)
ZeBoxx said:
Echilon said:
I took my JAM apart to paint it, and it was never the same again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In what way was it never the same again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It didn't fit back together properly and the battery cover used to hang half off. Aswell as that, the paint chipped eventually, but thankfully it got lost in the post and I got my money back from the post office
Echilon said:
but thankfully it got lost in the post and I got my money back from the post office
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LoL
Hmm interesting, I am jsut researching paints, does seem a laquer is the way to go. Guys who have taken it apart, your saying "its never the same again" Why, is there glue? Any experiance most welcome, I've built a mac tibook from 9 different donors and I am pretty good with my torx set, the only thing i hate is glue....
balo said:
I just fixed the styles (It is not loose anymore)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you do anything special or cram something to hold the plastic back in place?
I'm just getting ready to tear it apart just to fix this issue and any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mc
I've repaired about 80 remote controls, and I highly suspect that most of the "never the same again" is related to wrangled plastic when trying to undo the 'click' system. If you have a ( Edit: http://www.noordhollandinbouw.nl/images/bankschroef.jpg ) and a very thin screw driver, these are pretty easy to open up without any wrangling/cracking. The other issue is paint getting inbetween seams - the device has to fit back together, so you need to keep the paint clear of those %)
Other than that, I really see no reason why it wouldn't be perfectly fitting back together with the only difference being the paintjob.
Maybe one of the two guys who mentioned this can give exact details?
Hi guys,
Actually when I said (it will never the same again) I did not mean it is impossible mission, but it need a high caution and steady hand (No glued parts) ,don’t try to open it hardly (it might break) with all that a scratch here or there will happened ,but still if any of you opened it safely and get it painted then everything will be fine.
About the stylus, yes I put 2 pieces of plastic between the cover and the stylus black encasement.
Thanks
Balo, can you explain how you unclipped the plastic cover. Is there a specific side to start on? How did you lever the part apart - finger nails or small screw driver? As much detail please as I want fix my stylus.
Was it hard to take of the faceplate? I need a new faceplate put on my 8125. Can you advise? Thanks!
so no pictures yet of the paintjob?
So I was pretty careless and dropped my N1 in work, landing perfectly on it's screen It still functions perfectly and the AMOLED screen hasn't been damaged, simply the digitizer. I've already ordered a new one with all the tools necessary to replace it, but I'm yet to find any definitive guide on replacing the N1 digitizer.
I came across thread #751923 (Can't post links as I'm new) which seems really helpful but a guide with pictures/video would be awesome. There's a 45 step youtube vid on how to replace it as well but the quality/clarity isn't great. I'm sure I can use both of these to replace it just fine, It just seems a little daunting.
Basically I'm looking for consolation along the lines of 'It's damn easy to fix' Any love for a fellow N1-er?
It is easy to fix. Two tips: don't use metal spatulas to pry the plastic under the battery off and gently wiggle and push the motherboard out only after disconnecting all the little connectors on it.
Im also waiting on my digitizer. I'm going to folllow these 2 guides.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-One-Teardown/1654/1
http://cnn.cn/shop/google-nexus-digitizer-p-8252.html
Have done it and you actually found better tear-downs and tutorials. Use youtube as well. The videos help because they show the techniques as well. Hardest part i would have to say is sliding the motherboard out the bottom under the metal separator. I think it was great and taught me a lot about my phone. The thing you have to watch out for is dust and fingerprints under the screen. Once it's on...it's on, anything underneath is stuck lol. make sure it's all clean and you won't have any annoyances like dust particles like i have.
I did it, mostly successful. I damaged the cable to the trackball, so be careful at that step, otherwise nothing difficult, just takes an hour or so.
Cheers for the info and advice guys, should hopefully get my replacement digitizer tomorrow so I'll keep this thread updated with the outcome
I have replaced my digitizer. It cost me $45.00. It was challenging but not impossible. The hardest thing is not tearing any of the ribbons when dissasembling. It was a successful replacement. The only gripe I had was the digitizer I bought did not come with the adhesive to glue the digitizer to the frame. Make sure you have a way to attach the screen to the frame before you begin the process. Other than that it should be easy as long as you take your time.
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App
I replaced mine.. it took a solid hour or so, just be very careful not to tear any of the ribbon cables.. everything is super small and delicate.
I now get lots of dust in the corners of my screen because i didn't seal the new digitizer properly, but its not a huge deal to me.
replacing the digitizer is easy... its taking apart, and putting the rest back together that sucks. just make sure you know what length screw goes in what hole... very important. take notes as you disassemble.
nexusonemeover said:
just make sure you know what length screw goes in what hole... very important. take notes as you disassemble.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha reminds me of when I took my laptop apart to re apply thermalpaste. I ended up with 7 extra screws >.< But the thing was together and has been running fine for the last 6 months so O.O
I did it, not too bad if you go slow and deliberately. I also have dust under my screen now. I sort of wish I would have just sent it to HTC but the money saved is worth a little dust.
A useful tip for disassembling is to cut out a paper template the same shape as your N1 and push the screws through it in positions corresponding to the screw holes in your N1. Its much easier to figure out where they all go when you come to reassembling it, just dont knock your template and screws on the floor .
rob61280 said:
A useful tip for disassembling is to cut out a paper template the same shape as your N1 and push the screws through it in positions corresponding to the screw holes in your N1. Its much easier to figure out where they all go when you come to reassembling it, just dont knock your template and screws on the floor .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a great idea, rob. I always think whenever I take apart a phone that I should have a video camera handy to record what I'm doing so I can play it in reverse when I'm putting it back together
For $115 you can send your phone back to HTC and have a QUALIFIED technician replace your screen.
Yes, it's a little more but you don't have to worry about messing anything else up and you're getting back your phone without any installation flaws.
Well I eventually got my digitizer this morning. It took until I had everything taken apart to realise they had sent me a compatible but ill fitting digitizer. It doesn't even have the appropriate buttons (it did in the selling image) at the bottom. At this point everything works fine but it doesn't look perfect. I guess it'll have to do, thanks for the advice guys
omgdwong said:
For $115 you can send your phone back to HTC and have a QUALIFIED technician replace your screen.
Yes, it's a little more but you don't have to worry about messing anything else up and you're getting back your phone without any installation flaws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow thats cheap, I just got quoted for around $300US to fix my phones screen.. not including labor.. argh
Does anyone know if HTC in america repair phones from the other side of the world even though they were purchased from google's store?
I just sent my phone into HTC to be repaired for a cracked screen expecting it to be $115 and was pleasantly surprised to find that it would only be $55 including shipping! HTC was also extremely quick to get back with me for the quote. I sent the phone out Tuesday at 4pm and they have looked at it and quoted me the repair cost by Wednesday at 2 pm.
I recently cracked my digitalizer as well.
I called HTC 2 times without giving any information about myself before calling a 3rd time to do the actual swap.
I was quoted at $115 for me to send in my N1, wait a week without a phone, and have them replace the digitalizer, before shipping it back.
I then further inquired and found out they have a Swap program where they mail you a new(refurbished, but perfect) phone, and a FedEx label, which they still quoted me $115 to fix the screen, and a possible $275 if they needed to replace the logicboard, but they would get a quote back to me with all the things they would need to replace. It would require a $529 charge to my card, incase i didnt send the phone back at all.
I mentioned that my camera was broken, as well as my trackball was loose, and he said the quote would include this as well.
I called back a 3rd time, requested a swap phone, and had one 2 days later.
i mailed my phone into HTC, and two days later i had my quote.
I paid $55 after it was said and done, and have a new (refurbished) phone
I was rooted,unlocked, and running Kang-O-Rama 1.0 when i shipped the phone in. I didnt bother to fix that.
EDIT
"meyourchum" has provded a link to get offical disassembly instruction with lot more information.
Check it for yourself
Hello folks,
I had a chance to work on my friends arc who bought a Rogers version and dropped it. He had it totally mess on the case and needed the full housing replacement.
I hope that doesn't happen to anyone. I didn't take any photos but I am trying to explain everything as it was to help anyone with this.
General Note:
- Anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
- Be very gentle to your phone in this process
- Besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue(Sticky Back) and snap(plastic for main board)
- Using this information on your own risk as I don't take any responsibility if anything happens to your phone.
Instruction
1) Remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
2) Need star shaped screw driver[Trox](I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny) This is what I bought
All the above we all have seen them
3) After removing the 6 screws remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
4) Main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened.
5) Little board on the bottom is glued(sticky back @ top) which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
6) Majority of the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
7) Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
8) if you are doing a full housing replacement, then there are stuff here and there that you need to remove and re-use it on the new housing(Like 3.5 mm jack, HDMI lid, etc.)
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.
1st time... ehm.. taking the Arc apart, that is!
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz
Hope u have the courage to make a video next time
Sent from my Arc using XDA premium App
xelion said:
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem. I would be more than happy to answer. Lets see just some general stuff...
Note: anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
Note: be very gentle to your phone in this process
- you remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
- you need that star shaped screw driver(I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny)
All the above we all have seen them
after removing the 6 screws
note: besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue and snap(plastic for main board)
- remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
- main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened. I change full housing and not sure if you have to remove the hard key button from the bottom end of the phone too or not but that little board on the bottom is glue which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
- All the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
- There is a big one which goes to the screen you have to dis-attach that before removing the screen
- Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.
Can you answer this??? It get's hot here (and also in the same spot on the front.. so what's inside at this point??
CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.
Nimche said:
CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .
Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?
hellocng said:
Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glue part, they are more sticky than glued. You just simply stick it back where it was.
Where is the silver face you found?
This is retarded from them...
Digitizer and screen(one part) are sticked to the front face. In order to for your to change the faceplate only(front) you may have to go through the whole process because the wires from digitizer are going through a big hole to the main board. You don't want to mess around with $700 or $800.
Inside, everything is small. really small. I thought I totally screwed up the whole thing. Technology has gone forward alot since I was a kid putting radio together.
Good Luck
prathaban said:
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there are two board one above battery and one below batter @ bottom of the phone
On top is the main board
on bottom is the board for hard keys.
Nicely put together but they could have done a better job there....
Are there three parts to the housing? I assume there is the front plate, middle housing with the chrome, and the battery cover. The mainboard should be in the middle with the chrome. So I can't just detach the screen front the front plate? What is holding the three pieces of housing together? The six screws?
There are silver housings on eBay from time to time. Though, blue is a lot more common.
Three pieces. Back battery cover which is nothing.
Then there are two main pieces.
Chrome which is more like a holder of the fascia.
If I remember correctly, the front Fascia is the one holding all the board on it including that metal look piece(aluminum probably)
I will take photos and upload here...
Uploaded photos to the first post...
Hey, I'm looking to replace the chrome piece which has a few nasty chips in it, after removing the second back cover, how easy is it to take off that chrome piece?
Great post
How can I replace digitizer? I dropped my phone and the glass cracked
anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.
how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?
soldiers33 said:
anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you could have sent a private message.
I bought the screw driver here at local tool shop. Home Depot sells them.
Its called Trox Screw Driver and I bought exactly this one http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100087664&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100087664&ci_kw={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100087664&ci_gpa=pla&locStoreNum=618
I don't have the packaging but they should be standard.
Good Luck
mps83 said:
how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can find the whole housing between $30 to $40 but the front cover is that actual main piece that holds all the internal components + the screen.
If the crack doesn't bug you much, I would not do it since you have to replace the sticker behind you battery as well, which is not easy to peel off + you have to take the screen off the old front fascia which is glued and kind of hard to take off.
Downside of the whole thing for me was the sticker. I have to find an alternative for this problem.
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver. If you don't know how to do this check out this teardown by ifixit: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Atrix+4G+Teardown/4964/1
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
I wanted to tell you guys why, but I don't know. Perhaps one of you guys wants to experiment applying pressure to each component separately to find out the culprit?
Also, I'm curious to know if this will work for all of you, or just some of you.
Here are the pics:
This last one is the piece of tin\plastic with tape, side by side with a pencil for scale. Its not the tin I used, but its basically the same, but the one I used has white paint, I don't know if should make a difference. If you're worried about shorts just cover the whole thing in tape or cut plastic from a bottle or something.
The first two are how its supposed to look in the end.
[EDIT]: Here are some more pics:
This is the piece of plastic I used. It doesn't show, but it is very thin, one milimiter thick, if even.
These are of the open device. In the last one the plastic piece is a little eschewed, but you get the idea.
Cheerios
Huh. This is similar to the fix some people did with the digitizer problem. Seems like the the connectors on this phone tend to come loose, to where pressure in the right direction will fix it.
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app
Newbleeto said:
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver.
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
I wanted to tell you guys why, but I don't know. Perhaps one of you guys wants to experiment applying pressure to each component separately to find out the culprit?
Also, I'm curious to know if this will work for all of you, or just some of you.
Here are the pics:
This last one is the piece of tin\plastic with tape, side by side with a pencil for scale. Its not the tin I used, but its basically the same, but the one I used has white paint, I don't know if should make a difference. If you're worried about shorts just cover the whole thing in tape or cut plastic from a bottle or something.
The first two are how its supposed to look in the end.
Sorry for no open device pics, I did this yesterday and don't really feel like opening my phone, but if you guys think its needed I'll do it later.
Cheerios
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A detailed How To to show us what to do exactly, we can do much ourselves with just this pics. :/
EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYz_RiuFVRk had anyone seen this?
Will try this with my wifi broken atrix tomorrow.
guidoido004 said:
A detailed How To to show us what to do exactly, we can do much ourselves with just this pics. :/
EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYz_RiuFVRk had anyone seen this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's literally as simple as opening the atrix and placing the plastic under the motherboard, I don't think it gets any easier then that. But I'll try to take more photos.
As for that video, there are reports of people killing their mobiles by breaking the piece holding the battery or killing the nearby ICs trying that. That guy is just too rough. Also, it doesn't show the battery actually being replaced. If you wanna try to replace the battery, better do it gently and stay clear of that video
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
If the solution is to apply pressure to certain parts of the board then it's likely similar to the infamous nVidia issues from around 2008 where the chips were getting hot enough to expand and brake the solder connection or in some cases, rip some of the pads from the board. If that is the case, be careful, as flexing the board the wrong way could eventually lead to making it worse over time.
I can't believe this actually worked. Been using my Atrix for the whole weekend on WIFI. Also finally been able to use my Lapdock properly.
Thanks so much for such a simple fix.
If its any help to anyone, I ended up using an old debit card, as its seems the perfect height to give enough pressure on the board.
It did take a few goes, but as long as you persist with it, it works really well. Plus no more over heating too.
Thanks again
holy crap. 5 minutes and its fixed! thank you
Cause found??
Hi everybody,
I might have an idea what causes the wifi errors. As the wifi gets fixed by changing the motherboard's position, the motherboard is not fastened properly. This might be caused by the vibration function that is located on the part of the motherboard you would need to move up.(see the location of the vibrationfuction in the attachment.)
If so, should this function be less used then?
Thanks Newbleeto! I was so frustrated with this issue. I was initially trying based that youtube video link by someone else which never worked for me. I later decided to try your solution and it worked for me the very first time Appreciate your help!
Thanks, seems to work!
What an interesting tweak. There some validity to this. The Atrix 4G is notorious for wifi, bluetooth, and GPS dropout. This is largely due to kernel and rom. However I have seem plenty of Atrix4Gs with loose antenna clamps. Usually I apply a little pressure in the outside of the clamp to reform it slightly so it will maintain hold on the reciever socket. Second thing I look at is the shielding around the mainboard. This acts as a heatsink and guard. If depressed in anyway will cause massive heating along with grounding. The antenna clusters are not well separated from RF interference from one another to begin with. Metal in general will restricted RF signals considerably depending on its frequency. The greater the frequency the lower it's ability to perpetrate materials.
From the looks of it your directing RF crossover and bounce back away from each antenna. This is a good thing. It also means as long as the phone is not held on its edge towards any receiving end it won't effect talk and data very much.
My experiments with the Atrix4G always had a bit of unpredictable outcome when it came to pressure on the ribbon connections. This would result in the screen blacking out, digitizer over sensitive or non responsive, failure to boot and so on. Pressure is a big deal with these phones so be careful.
Happy tinkering
IT WORKS
after nearly 4 months of this bug i finally had the guts to open up my phone and do this fix.
and it is working , my wifi is back thank you OP. :highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::victory::victory:
This method works wonderfully. Thanks, OP!
sangyum said:
This method works wonderfully. Thanks, OP!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spoke too soon. This fix stopped working after two days.... Back to Wifi Error and boot loop. :crying:
I got my wifi to work again, there are two snap on connectors on the same side of the phone. I put 2x pieces of toilet paper cardboard between the frame of the phone and the connector, pushing the connector tighter to the other side.
I'd like to confrm that it works to me !
Thank you, I spent dozens of hours to try solve it.
Newbleeto said:
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver. If you don't know how to do this check out this teardown by ifixit: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Atrix+4G+Teardown/4964/1
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
...
Cheerios
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I did this as well, and it's been working perfectly for over a week now. Battery life has tripled to 24h (back where it used to be, what a relief) and the wifi is back to being perfect.
In my case, I cut a small piece out of an old credit card and inserted into the section highlighted in the attached picture, inside to out (from the battery bay towards the side). There are flat cables/strips underneath and you probably don't want to insert your spacer material from the outside in. Make sure that the plastic strip fits completely underneath the board, otherwise you won't be able to properly close the back.
Thanks!
To add some data to this can all of you confirm the kernel and rom you are useing before and after this mod. Would help all of us in the future for reference. Thanks.
Cab121 said:
To add some data to this can all of you confirm the kernel and rom you are useing before and after this mod. Would help all of us in the future for reference. Thanks.
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Sure, no problem!
Atrix 4G (Bell Canada)
Unlocked and rooted by yours truly (don't ask how, I'm still not sure I know what I did)
CynaogenMod 10.1 from epinter: Megathread or linuxmobile.org site, builds 2013-08-07 + hporch32 kernel (before and after mod) & 2013-08-26 + hporch32 kernel (after mod)
Radio: Telstra N_01.87.00R
What screws does the XT1575 use when taking apart the phone (first screws encountered after removing the backing)? I would like to know the dimensions if possible and maybe a good place to get them.
My friend destroyed his screen and said I could have it if I could fix it. Being I have the Moto X2 right now I was like bet. The screws were 100% stripped. Took me awhile to get them out. Glue, rubber band, turning the t3's to fatheads, nothing worked. Ended up drilling them out with what I found at home lol. Now that the screen and other parts are disassembled, I have 8 screws that need replacing. Any advice?
EzyDucky said:
What screws does the XT1575 use when taking apart the phone (first screws encountered after removing the backing)? I would like to know the dimensions if possible and maybe a good place to get them.
My friend destroyed his screen and said I could have it if I could fix it. Being I have the Moto X2 right now I was like bet. The screws were 100% stripped. Took me awhile to get them out. Glue, rubber band, turning the t3's to fatheads, nothing worked. Ended up drilling them out with what I found at home lol. Now that the screen and other parts are disassembled, I have 8 screws that need replacing. Any advice?
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If the screw holes are not stripped, you could probably search around for some busted up devices and look for matching screws. Typically screws used for phones are pretty standard and their is just a few variations. A phone repair place might be able to provide some.
So you have an existing screw? Then your golden but it might take a little work and some research... start here: http://www.cellulardr.com/cell-phone-screws.html and send them an email, they might know what you need already. Otherwise some fine measuring and thread counting will get you the answer, and maybe some trial and error.
Of course, searching eBay can find almost anything: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-UNLOCKE...EMENT-COMPLETE-SCREW-SET-SCREWS-/162108074551
A bit more Googling tells me it's the same as LG K7 MS330, Alcatel Dawn 5027B, and Motorola Moto X XT1570/XT1572/XT1575, there are screw packages all over the internet, or you could just grab some precision measuring tools and find the M size and length (like M1.4 with .3 pitch and 3mm long or something like that)