Database Users

My HTC HD2 Disassembled to the LCD

I posted in another thread about the issue of digitizer being glued to lcd. I had more pics to show, and decided disassembled pics are useful to all! So new thread for full set! If you want more I can get more! If I get enough questions I might make a tutorial for dis assembly.
General Disassembly
Slideshow:
http://img96.imageshack.us/slideshow/webplayer.php?id=htchd2wificam2.jpg
Desoldered Digitizer Pics
Slideshow:
http://img705.imageshack.us/slideshow/webplayer.php?id=htchd2desolderedtermina.jpg
Digitizer Removal w/ Razor
Slideshow:
http://img696.imageshack.us/slideshow/webplayer.php?id=htchd2digioffrazor.jpg
ENJOY!
This really is a great phone!

can't see anything. please use a different host

brandi said:
can't see anything. please use a different host
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fixed problem!

OH NO!! what HAVE U done!!!

I know...The horror...I haven't re-assembled to see if still working...HA!
I disassembled because of a cracked digitizer.

looks like a fur or "plastic" carpet, hope you don't end up with ESD related problems
ESD as in ElectroStatic Discharge ^^

Phone still works just fine.
If anybody knows how to un-solder the digitizer away from the lcd, help would be appreciated!

New images added.
Next up:
digitizer/lcd separation

any updates?

Have you managed to fix it yet?
We all want you to succeed so we can operate on our own cracked ones! Maybe you need the "unglue" chemical - you know, like superglue has an antiglue for reversing it's stickiness. If you could find out what glue bonded it, then a specialist adhesive supplier probably knows how to reverse it.

I'm sure you'll like this (if it isn't posted here before...)
http://pocketnow.com/hardware-1/official-htc-hd2-disassembly-assembly-training-videos-leaked

Still not clear, has he finally removed the lcd on that video from the digitizer? to me it looks they're still cemented

tamas970 said:
Still not clear, has he finally removed the lcd from the digitizer? to me it looks they're still cemented
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well if they're cemented (hopefully with some hyper-glue), thats a GOOD thing. Then this will be (hopefully) my first device with NO dust under the glass.
Don't you people have insurances on your devices? Talk to the ensurance company and you will get a new device for a small excess - that is, if it's beyond repair

Halle said:
Well if they're cemented (hopefully with some hyper-glue), thats a GOOD thing. Then this will be (hopefully) my first device with NO dust under the glass.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its not ... I have dust under the displayglass.

Floatheavy, and everyone else.
I'm currently on my second HD2, first suffered a hairline crack on the digitizer and it went COMPLETELY unresponsive. After getting the second, I had nothing to loose and disassembled the first. I got everthing apart up to the LCM, this module has everything (the glass digitizer, the LCD and the backlight) all cemented together. As I took the phone apart, priodically I would test that it still worked - everything except the digitizer. When I tried to separate the digitizer from the LCD and baclight I ended up tearing the layers of the LCD apart, now one layer is still glued to the digitizer and one is still glued to the backlight. I have yet to see how this can safely come apart and untill I can buy the LCD the phone is totaly screwed. I think one has to purchase an entire LCM and not just the digitizer.
For those that want to try separating the digitizer - BEWARE, noone seems to have found the secret yet! If I manage to discover something new I'll post.

Yeah. I tried the heat method to separate the digi from the LCD...
No luck
It seems it is more than the simple adhesive broken down by heat.
To get the bezel away from the LCM you can use heat to make easier, but to get the digitizer away from the LCD itself remains a mystery to me.
Anybody get any other results?

OKAY..
Pics updated again...
I was able to get the digitizer apart from the LCD, using a razor.

for separate lcd and digitizer
For separate lcd and digitizer, I used nylo fisher string... and it work good... just right my problem is how to past new one ? neopren glue ?

Honestly, I plan on just adding a dot of super glue to each corner.
I believe most phone adhesives are a sylicon based glue.

It`s almost impossible to un-solder the digitizer away from the lcd, i have succeeded a few times whit hot air and very sharp cutter, but still broke 2 screens from 5...it has to be a solution for this...anyway 3 phones from 5 its not the best rate...

[Q] Non Responsive Screen

Have an HD2 here that stupidly I disassembled to replace the camera lens which after reading XDA deep enough I found out that it is replaced from the outside. Well got the phone apart and figured out that that wasn't necessary I reassembled the phone. Well in the process of getting the back off I appear to have damaged the cable the runs up the side of the screen on the volume button side. The digitizer I am told. Knowing this was beyond me I found a repair facility Mission Repair in Kansas that said they could repair it. Shipped it to them and they said that they replaced the digitizer and the lcd screen and neither one fixed the problem. They seemed truly sincere and did not charge me anything but shipping. They said must be the logic board and that was not an affordable piece to replace.
Seems strange to me that the phone was working perfectly before the cable damage that I caused. I did not approach the logic board area at all. Phone running NDT MIUI 19.1 when this happened. Any thoughts from you gurus that maybe they missed.
Thanks in advance

mayve ur ESD dammage it or u touched something and u didnt pay attention ... tru to flash the rom again or look again inside

Need some help, dead digitizer or what??

Hey guys, I need some opinions about my problem, check my video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeApacv5_gE&feature=youtu.be
I think it's digitizer fault but before buy new one I need to be at least 90% sure its digitizer, tried to load many roms, pds fix...

Anyone? Somebody must know

Well honestly it is hard to say without actually having your phone here. But you can almost be sure of this. It is most likely either the digitizer or the multi pin socket that the digitizer plugs into. I am working on one right now that went into a swimming pool and the socket is bad. It does the exact same thing as yours with any digitizer that I try. I'm currently looking for a way to remove the corrosion from the inside of that sucker. Gotta find some kind of spray. I can't seem to get it good enough with emery cloth or scraping... On the other hand I've replaced the digitizer and fixed this same issue on my sons Atrix.
In case you decide that you want to try to replace it here are 2 on Ebay that have the frame built in. Link1 Link2 So far I've bought 3 that were assembled this way and it is so much easier than buying a ditizer alone. No messing with double sided tape or worrying about backlight bleed.
Hope you can get some relief.

Dude, I've got the same in the same places! It have to be factory defect... there is too much digitizer problems...

Yes its very good smartphone but too much bad digitizers disqualify it, so JdgM3NT4L sometimes when I squeeze frame bottom of the screen works fine but only for few moments, so there are three options: need to replace adhesive sticker, replace digitizer and pin socket. Damn even if I want sell Atrix for parts I am not sure if all of them are fine

I used to get that a lot, phantom touches that make the phone useless until I turn the screen off and back on.
Cannot say for sure but when I stopped using alcohol wipes to clean the screen and reduced the amount of static it was exposed to (keeping it polyester pant pockets seemed to make it worse believe it or not!), it seemed to pretty much stop.. now I've gone months without the issue.

lvl18 said:
Yes its very good smartphone but too much bad digitizers disqualify it, so JdgM3NT4L sometimes when I squeeze frame bottom of the screen works fine but only for few moments, so there are three options: need to replace adhesive sticker, replace digitizer and pin socket. Damn even if I want sell Atrix for parts I am not sure if all of them are fine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the socket is on the motherboard, so no replacing that... For 30 bucks, I would try the digitizer. I should have explained the part about water damage. That's one of the few ways that the socket would have been damaged. That's kind of what I was eluding to when I mentioned not having your phone here. If I had it here I would know the history and whether or not it had water damage, etc. My apologies for not being more clear about that. I just don't want you to buy the digitizer and then be upset because I told you to leap right in. In my humble opinion. A new one will probably take care of the problem. 90% if I had to call it.
I wish you the best of luck. And if you have any problems installing it shoot me a pm and I'll be glad to Skype or email to help you get through it.

Thanks, my Atrix never saw water. I just dissasembly phone for every single part and cleaned all socket with alcohol. Put back together but no result. I'll try replace digitizer with frame from ebay, it's risky but hope it will solve the problem.

Its the digitizer I'm 99 percent sure I had an identical problem. Dead zones and the phantom touches. Replaced the digitizer and problem solved. I believe the digitzer design is bad for our phone and is prone to this kind of failure
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app

Dead screen on Galaxy S4

I bought it about 9 months ago on Craigslist. I'll never do *that* again.
After I got it home, I noticed that the screen looks as if it has been replaced. A tiny bit of glue in the upper corner. Oh well. It was working fine. Or so I thought.
A few weeks ago, I started getting these strange vertical lines through the entire display. I couldn't figure out any pattern to it (time of day, temperature, etc.) It would usually go away within a few minutes.
Then today, I hit the power button to bring it out of "sleep" mode, and the screen flickered a few times... and died. I tried to power it back on; no dice. I pulled the battery and tried powering it on; no luck.
I plugged it into an AC charger and at least I saw the battery icon. I powered it on, and the screen flickered and died again.
Is this a known error or a simple fix? Do you need more information?

Sounds like a dead display, not a real common problem but it happens. You can replace the display which is not a huge deal but my concern is the glue you mention. That may make it a bit of a challenge to repair. Depending on what type, how much and where glue was put.

How much would a new display cost if I replaced it myself? How do I know it's just the display, not the digitizer or something else, etc.?

Check Ebay. Ebay is usually loaded with replacement screens/lcds. If you do buy from there make sure it is a Sprint variant of the SG4. There are suttle differences on the inside between GS4s. The lcd is the part you'll need to replace if necessary. I would advise, taking the display off first to inspect what the previous owner had done. It's entirely possible that the lcd cable ribbon is loose or not seated properly to the board.

The display will be the outer glass, digitizer and LCD all in one package. You can try to replace parts separately, but trust me it is not worth it. The outer glass is glued down to the digitizer, that is a real pita to get apart clean without damaging what is left. Then if you do manage to get it apart it may not function as well or be as durable as originally because the outer glass no longer makes contact with the whole digitizer. Think of it like a single piece of wood vs a laminate like plywood.
Granted it may not be the display (there is always a possibility it could be something else -like aliens) but most likely it will be the display. I would think of it this way- try to replace the display, if that does not work you can resell the display you just bought and you might be out $20- well worth it in my opinion.

Thanks for the info. Looks like the glass/digitizer/LCD will run me about $100, so I'm not sure it's worth it.
Does anyone have the link handy for the Galaxy S4 drivers so that I can get what I need off the phone?

troyboytn said:
I would advise, taking the display off first to inspect what the previous owner had done. It's entirely possible that the lcd cable ribbon is loose or not seated properly to the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've followed instructions to take the motherboard out and put it back in. Is it difficult to ge the display off? Is the LCD cable ribbon easy to find?

Samsung A40 took a little swim... but signs of life! Any ideas?

Hi all. My trusty A40 had a little mishap at the toilet (!) and drowned. I gave it a rinse with alcohol and dried it for days in 40C ovens etc. but no life was recovered. A few days ago I decided to try charging it anyway and nothing happened... then this morning my old alarm went off! The screen is still completely dead, and I didn't notice any vibration but I always had that turned off. When I plug it in and out with the USB cable it makes the correct beeps. I can even snooze that alarm with the power button and turn it off with volume down.
When I connect it to my PC though I don't see any drive come up, I guess it doesn't default to USB file transfer so maybe this isn't a surprise.
So is my phone alive inside and just has a completely dead screen? The alcohol has conveniently taken the back off by dissolving the glue. Also, I've already got a new Redmi Note 11 so I'm happy to tinker with this phone and I've replaced screens before no problem.
Is this phone worth buying a new screen for do you all think or would that be a total waster of $35?
Thanks!
(PS: sorry if not in correct forum here, not sure which one is most appropriate for hardware / repair issues)

Wrong. You may still be able to save it...
Pull the back cover and disconnect the battery asap. Allow to dry completely before powering up. Fan blowing on it with the phone on it's side in a very warm room for at least a couple days.
The mobo power section or the soc are the most likely areas to fail from corrosion. Possible the connectors are still retaining brown water
Do Not use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol as a drying agent if it has an LCD as it will poison it.

blackhawk said:
Wrong. You may still be able to save it...
Pull the back cover and disconnect the battery asap. Allow to dry completely before powering up. Fan blowing on it with the phone on it's side in a very warm room for at least a couple days.
The mobo power section or the soc are the most likely areas to fail from corrosion. Possible the connectors are still retaining brown water
Do Not use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol as a drying agent if it has an LCD as it will poison it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks but I've already completed the drying. The CPU is working in there, in fact when I put in a SIM it will even ring when I phone it. I'm just wondering if I can be 100% sure everything is OK apart from the screen? Is there anything else I can check?

DannySolo said:
Thanks but I've already completed the drying. The CPU is working in there, in fact when I put in a SIM it will even ring when I phone it. I'm just wondering if I can be 100% sure everything is OK apart from the screen? Is there anything else I can check?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's dry and still malfunctioning the damage is likely to the mobo, is permanent and will be progressive. Corrosion never sleeps.
You can disassemble and check the ribbon cable pins going to the display for moisture and/or corrosion damage. The mobo power section and the BGA chipsets* (can't see the damage as the contacts are under the chip) are the most likely to be damaged.
With water exposure time is of the essence. You might save the device if you're fast enough and do the right things. Salt water is sure death.
* you sure it's dry?!! BGA chipset's don't have airflow around the pins. Any water under the chipset will also be retained by capillary action...

blackhawk said:
If it's dry and still malfunctioning the damage is likely to the mobo, is permanent and will be progressive. Corrosion never sleeps.
You can disassemble and check the ribbon cable pins going to the display for moisture and/or corrosion damage. The mobo power section and the BGA chipsets* (can't see the damage as the contacts are under the chip) are the most likely to be damaged.
With water exposure time is of the essence. You might save the device if you're fast enough and do the right things. Salt water is sure death.
* you sure it's dry?!! BGA chipset's don't have airflow around the pins. Any water under the chipset will also be retained by capillary action...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I submerged the whole thing in alcohol and then dried it at 50C for 72 hours. Everything I can test works perfectly (including ringing when called) but the screen is totally dead. I cleaned that socket but still nothing.
Is it possible the water/alcohol damaged the screen and not the motherboard? Sound unlikely but that's what they symptoms indicate.
So is it worth a bet on fixing with a $30 new screen or not do you think?

DannySolo said:
I submerged the whole thing in alcohol and then dried it at 50C for 72 hours. Everything I can test works perfectly (including ringing when called) but the screen is totally dead. I cleaned that socket but still nothing.
Is it possible the water/alcohol damaged the screen and not the motherboard? Sound unlikely but that's what they symptoms indicate.
So is it worth a bet on fixing with a $30 new screen or not do you think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it's the mobo but you're holding it. I don't know how suspectable the the display is to water damage. Did you use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol?

blackhawk said:
I think it's the mobo but you're holding it. I don't know how suspectable the the display is to water damage. Did you use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All I could find was 100% ethanol I'm afraid and only realised the FAQs saying "alcohol" were talking about isopropanol after I'd finished. Isn't ethanol also used for mobo cleaning? Maybe that destroyed the screen though.

DannySolo said:
All I could find was 100% ethanol I'm afraid and only realised the FAQs saying "alcohol" were talking about isopropanol after I'd finished. Isn't ethanol also used for mobo cleaning? Maybe that destroyed the screen though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Water can damage AMOLED displays as well it seems. Best to keep all solvents away from the display. Methanol alcohol should never be used.
Ethanol not sure about.

blackhawk said:
Water can damage AMOLED displays as well it seems. Best to keep all solvents away from the display. Methanol alcohol should never be used.
Ethanol not sure about.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK I think then I'll shoot the moon and buy a replacement screen... would be a terrible waste to throw this phone out if that's all that's wrong.
Plus we would now know that ethanol is OK for phone motherboards, plus it takes the glue off the back of a Samsung A40!

DannySolo said:
OK I think then I'll shoot the moon and buy a replacement screen... would be a terrible waste to throw this phone out if that's all that's wrong.
Plus we would now know that ethanol is OK for phone motherboards, plus it takes the glue off the back of a Samsung A40!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use anhydrous (preferably 96% minimum 93%) isopropyl alcohol.
I wouldn't go too nuts trying to save it due the price point and especially the fact it has known water damage. Buying a used one in good condition be a viable option if you really like that model.

blackhawk said:
Use anhydrous (preferably 96% minimum 93%) isopropyl alcohol.
I wouldn't go too nuts trying to save it due the price point and especially the fact it has known water damage. Buying a used one in good condition be a viable option if you really like that model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've just notices that with this model there is a pretty hefty flex between the top and bottoms boards with a connector on each end. This must also carry screen data so I'll give that a good clean out.
Second hand AMOLEDs are impossible to find for the A40, they all have horrible burn in.
I'm going to get the INCELL LCD version already in a new front frame and go from there. Should still be a decent back up phone.
And the fun of fixing it is what it's all about anyway, right? :-D

You grossly underestimate the corrosion process that's likely been initiated. I'm not so optimistic about it ever being reliable again.

I can understand corrosion while the phone is wet... not after it's been soaked in alcohol and completely dried. The process doesn't continue.
I'm going to guess it's the screen only that's broken as I see no other issues... I bought a cheap LCD replacement already in a new frame for $30.
Let's see how it goes.

DannySolo said:
I can understand corrosion while the phone is wet... not after it's been soaked in alcohol and completely dried. The process doesn't continue.
I'm going to guess it's the screen only that's broken as I see no other issues... I bought a cheap LCD replacement already in a new frame for $30.
Let's see how it goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, yes it does. Most don't understand how insidious it is. The oxides formed are insoluble in water and alcohols. Many are hygroscopic and attract moisture, then you know what happens...
This is the same reason you never buy a flood damaged car. Even if everything is working it will start to fail sure as the sun rises in the morning.
Sometimes if you pull the battery before the flooding it can be saved... sometimes. Always check for signs of water damage when buying a vehicle. EV's just burn to the ground when water damaged
Energized circuits greatly exacerbate and accelerate the corrosion process. You see the results. The future is uncertain for that phone but it will likely eventually fail from that one prolonged exposure.

DannySolo said:
I can understand corrosion while the phone is wet... not after it's been soaked in alcohol and completely dried. The process doesn't continue.
I'm going to guess it's the screen only that's broken as I see no other issues... I bought a cheap LCD replacement already in a new frame for $30.
Let's see how it goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tell results

OK so the new screen eventually arrived and I turned on the phone then plugged in the new screen... nothing. But I guess you have to plug in the screen and then turn it on, but that seems to be impossible with the A40 where you need to attach the middle frame for to use power/volume, and that blocks the screen connector.
Is there some way to bridge those little spring contacts on the PCB to reproduce a power on signal? Otherwise I'll just have to do the whole replacement process and see what happens at the end!
Just as well there's holidays coming.

DannySolo said:
OK so the new screen eventually arrived and I turned on the phone then plugged in the new screen... nothing. But I guess you have to plug in the screen and then turn it on, but that seems to be impossible with the A40 where you need to attach the middle frame for to use power/volume, and that blocks the screen connector.
Is there some way to bridge those little spring contacts on the PCB to reproduce a power on signal? Otherwise I'll just have to do the whole replacement process and see what happens at the end!
Just as well there's holidays coming.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i do not know, sorry, never opened my a40, still using it right now