I am trying to compile a large list of tips and tricks that we users can use to extend the life of our small batteries.
List is here:
http://android-simplicity.blogspot.com/2009/08/bag-of-tricks-1-increase-battery-life.html
On-Going Power saving List
1. Under-clock your cpu(for root users only). Download->over clocking widget->set cpu speed to lowest value
2. Turn off GPS
3. Reduce the number of start up apps
4. Restart phone
5. Lower screen brightness
6. Turn off Wi-fi when you are not around any wifi networks
7. Turn off 3G Mobile Data Network - Settings--->Wireless Controls--->Mobile Networks and check the box that says "Use Only 2G Networks.
8. Disable auto Data Sync
9. Download and install "Power Manager"
10. Disable back ground apps - [~JDBDogg]
11. Turn off keyboard backlight (for Dream/G1 only for obvious reasons) with Backlight Off app. Only works on rooted phones. [~Chahk]
12. Turn off any unnecessary noises or vibrations, such as for on-screen keyboard and games. [~AdamPI]
13. Make sure your firmware and apps are up to date, efficiency may be improved. [~AdamPI]
14. Use headphones. [~AdamPI]
15. Turn off Bluetooth. [~AdamPI]
16. [~Yours goes here]
If you have any tricks that you use to get the most time juice out of your phone, please share them to the rest of us. Thanks.
Disable background apps
Turn off keyboard backlight (for Dream/G1 only for obvious reasons) with Backlight Off app. Only works on rooted phones.
Chahk said:
Turn off keyboard backlight (for Dream/G1 only for obvious reasons) with Backlight Off app. Only works on rooted phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nice, one ! didnt think of that~
Lower the time it takes for the screen to time out.
Id also say take off any widgets you may have but i guess that falls underneath the "disable background apps" category
Bluetooth isn't mentioned.
Turn off any unnecessary noises or vibrations, such as for on-screen keyboard and games.
Make sure your firmware and apps are up to date, efficiency may be improved.
I'd guess using headphones is better than the speaker, plus no-one on the bus wants to hear your "music".
Has anyone tested decoding efficiency of video and audio codecs? AAC saves space, but does it use more battery than mp3?
up to 15
AdamPI said:
Bluetooth isn't mentioned.
Turn off any unnecessary noises or vibrations, such as for on-screen keyboard and games.
Make sure your firmware and apps are up to date, efficiency may be improved.
I'd guess using headphones is better than the speaker, plus no-one on the bus wants to hear your "music".
Has anyone tested decoding efficiency of video and audio codecs? AAC saves space, but does it use more battery than mp3?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now thats thinking out of the box. Thanks AdamPI
We have now 15 on the list. Lets see how long this can go~
Someone should do a test using all of these tricks and do a comparison, although it will be a very boring phone at this point with everything off.
Don't use a ROM that requires a linux-swap Partition
This causes the phone to die faster because the sd card is constantly being acessed
jf4888 said:
Don't use a ROM that requires a linux-swap Partition
This causes the phone to die faster because the sd card is constantly being acessed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SD Cards are so cheap these days that you shoudn't worry about damaging them. In a weird way though, this advice does make sense. Swap = more apps are being kept in memory, thus more work being performed by the phone, which translates to higher power consumption.
But then again, following this logic a similar advice would be to not run any apps at all. Or better yet, just shut your phone off! Maybe then it will last a full day on a single charge
Seriously though, if you're worried about damaging your phone, read up on Lithium-Ion/Polymer batteries and how to prolong their lifespan. The main points are:
Don't let them get too hot. Heat damages battery cells and cause them to lose their capacity.
Deep discharge cycles (letting the battery drain before fully charging them) kill these batteries fast. LiIon/LiPolymer batteries like to be "topped off" once the level gets to 60-70% mark.
Discharge cycles can improve state-of-charge estimation, so only perform those when the battery meter goes out of whack and doesn't tell the charge level properly. This doesn't happen often.
They don't suffer from the "memory" and overcharge issues that used to plague batteries using older technologies (NiCad/NiMH), so it's safe to keep the phone plugged in whenever you can.
The "first-time cycle" is a myth left over from Nickel-based batteries. This means you don't need to charge the batter for 8 hours the first time you use it.
Do not use "fast chargers" since their usage can decrease the lifespan of the battery.
Get an app that turns off your data network completely (like WiSyncPlus). Not just "use 2G only" but COMPLETELY. I can go a whole weekend, with normal use, without charging my phone if I need to. (From one Fri 6am to Sun 6pm give or take was my best)
The one I use (WiSyncPlus, there are others I guess) turns off the network automatically when I unplug the charger from my phone. Txt msgs piggy back the cellular network so no issue there, otherwise, if I want to jump on the internet or check the weather, I hit the toggle switch on my Home screen...in ~3secs I'm all set again. Toggle back off when finished.
Best $3 by far I've spent on an app for my G1.
i use APNdroid for that
No one mentioned using a ROM that allows changes to the CPU scaling.
I'm on Cyanogen 4.1.2.1 and I have it scaled from 245 to 527 with the CPU only jumping up to the next clock speed when it needs it.
So, most of the time, my phone is on 245 and it clocks to 383 and then 527 as needed. I had overclock widget set so it showed me the current clock speed. Once I was comfortable with the frequency and load under which it changed speeds, I removed the widget from the desktop.
I use my phone a lot and it lasts a full day easily.
if youre using a hero rom there is an option to completely turn off mobile networks so there is no data connecion at all.
i have to go with
turn the phone off
get a car charger
spare battery or extended one
Most of my droid using colleagues are quite impressed at how i manage to squeeze so much battery life out of my handset. I thought it was time to compile and share my tips and tricks with the community. I get about 20+ hours with relatively heavy use
First some caveats.
This is what I personally do - and I simply want to share if some of these tips and tricks can be useful for others. Your personal mileage will vary and not all of these tips will be applicable to all users. With that in mind, these are my personal requirements and phone capabilities which affect my strategy for longer battery life:
Some sort of data Connection Always On
At least 2,000 in quadrant after standard boot
Background Data Always On and AutoSync always on
WaveSecure and LBE Security Service Always On
Google Voice for sms and call forwarding/routing
1000 minutes + 5gb data grandfathered plan - so no use for major data monitoring and no use for wifi calling
Frequent use of bluetooth stereo headphones in conjunction with Amazon MP3 and Google Music Beta - music synced then listened to, rarely streamed
Infrequent use of Pandora
Required ROMS, Apps and Programs
Cyanogen Mod 7 Latest Nightly (kernel of your preference)
Tasker
Autostarts
Root Explorer
Titanium Backup (useful, not required)
Step 1: Remove CM Bloat
Before and after flashing a nightly I run Titanium Backup and backup all system apps just in case something gets ****ed up during what I do next. In general, I uninstall any apps i don't use and backup + uninstall any apps i use very infrequently.
I then uninstall the following:
File Manager (replaced by root explorer which is far more powerful)
Sound Recorder (keep in mind, im using GV for SMS and do not use MMS),
Music (replaced by the new google music from market and amazon mp3)
Voice Dialer (i've never understood the need for this when we have google voice search)
Home Screen Tips
Magic Smoke Wallpaper (if you don't use it)
Music Visualization Wallpapers (if you don't use it)
ADW Launcher (if you don't use it)
Gan Optimizer and Wifi Calling
Email (i only use gmail app and have it setup such that other accounts are forwarded, labeled, and gmail can SEND AS: other account)
FM Radio (people still listen to FM after howard stern went to satellite?)
Dev Tools (I never find a need for this)
Keep in mind all of these are backed up in case you decide you want them back or something breaks. Also, you might need to force close out of kineto/wifi calling before the uninstall through applications -> running services.
Step 2: Settings
I don't **** around with Render Effect for battery savings - it only helps on AMOLED screens (confirmed by c00ller here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14509485&postcount=4)
I have auto brightness disabled and use the status bar swipe brightness to adjust
CPU Governor: I prefer Smartass if available, if not then interactive, if not then on demand. I used to use Pershoot - but I think i now prefer Umaro or stock.
CPU Clock: I have this set to 1.2mhz. Honestly, its faster than most phones out there both in how it feels and quadrant score. 1.5 seems like overkill - and it will drain the battery faster. This really comes to personal preference though. Min should always be lowest frequency.
to make the system feel faster, i make all animations fast in spare parts. as a result, i do not use the screen on/off animations.
VM heap @ 32 mb
lock home in memory, use jit, enable surface dithering
GPS Always On
Step 3: Take control over startup
This where autostarts comes into play. Note that both After Startup and Connectivity Changed are triggered on boot - so this is where things need to be disabled. Here is what i have disabled:
xda premium
(Amazon) Appstore
Messaging (I only kept messaging so i can recieve t-mobile alerts)
Springpad
Maps (should be disabled unless you are a big latitude user)
Amazon MP3
Skype (keep enabled if you do sync and want to be signed in on boot)
Ebay (keep enabled if you have auction alerts on)
Touch Pal Dialer (still deciding if i like this or stock)
SyncMyPix
ROM Manager Premium License
DropBox
Netflix
Shopper
Firefox Beta (keeping this app around to see if it ever improves vs stock or dolphin)
(Google) Earth
(Google) Docs
Note that this isnt fully comprehensive for what u would want to disable - in general keep the google apps enabled and any apps u know should run at startup (for example those that receive push messages) or that you want to poll immediately.
Step 4: Automate with Tasker
I use tasker to do some automatic toggling of settings.
Primary battery savings: location based profiles that use location w/o tears (network location) that intelligently turn wifi on and off in locations where I know I have wifi access (for example in my apartment or near work + during work hours + not holiday + weekday). Under wifi settings -> advanced make sure the wifi sleep policy is set to Never.
I don't do this, but you may also want a profile that sets wifi off or data off or autosync off while at home during sleeping hours.
Secondary battery savings: when bluetooth is turned on, wait for connection for 3 minutes. if no connection is made, turn off. when bluetooth device is disconnected, check for another existing connection or new connection for next 3 minutes. if no connection is made, turn off.
Tertiary battery savings: Profile that alerts when battery is fully charged (with british higher pitched female voice) to prevent overcharging/battery damage (please correct me if this is a myth but ive found it to be true, anecdotally).
Additional Thoughts about Other Profile Apps and Tasker
I have found that apps like setcpu have a definite negative affect on battery life. Most kernel governors manage themselves properly and profiles are not needed unless doing heavy overclocking where you need high temperature failsafes.
Additionally, apps like juice defender seems to waste a lot of battery in their monitoring (versus Tasker) and I think the tendency for that app to toggle the cellular radio on and off (with that 20s delay) actually hurts battery. Again, I own these apps and have used them extensively and decided against them - but it does come down to personal preference. Still, an app like Tasker can do everything juice defender and setcpu do, if necessary albeit less intuitively, but with a smaller memory footprint.
A note on Bump Charging
See here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=871051
condensed: bump charging works but can weaken your battery in the long run. avoid it if you care about your battery longevity or have frequent access to chargers throughout the day.
Thanks to c00ler for the tip to byrong's research.
Open Questions that I have
Radio questions
If in a high 4g/3g penetration area - is it better to be on WCDMA Preferred or WCDMA Only?
If in constant wifi coverage - is it better to be on 2g only or a WCDMA setting?
If in constant wifi coverage - is it better to have cell radio off and make calls over wifi only?
Other questions
Is there any battery life correlation to USB PC charging vs Wall charging? What about stock charger vs other micro usb chargers?
Is battery weakened from extended time spent plugged in?
Is there anything else I am missing? I hope this guide is helpful.
Reserved for followup.
Great posts.
I recommend to freeze those system apps rather than to remove/uninstall them using Titanium Backup.
Considering that you 're using CM 7 nightly, there's a bit much work to do to uninstall the unnecessary system apps after flashing new ROMs.
Just don't know whether freezing a app would do more harm to performance than to just remove/uninstall them or not.
A few answers:
sundar2012 said:
Is battery weakened from extended time spent plugged in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do not know the exact answer but I will tell you that PC USB ports are limited to providing a typical maximum current of 500 mA while the wall charger that came with our device is capable of 1.0 A or 1000 mA. I use an app called Battery Monitor Widget and realistically I've seen numbers like 200-300 and 500-700 mA, respectively, as the charge current is a function of battery %. What I'm saying is USB charging for Wall charging is really more a matter of how battery life is affected by charge rate. I've read on the one had moving ions too quickly in a battery can lead to decreased lifetime while on the other, fast charging avoids crystallization of battery microstructure, which is good. Read more at batteryuniversity.com
sundar2012 said:
Is battery weakened from extended time spent plugged in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read this post.
sundar2012 said:
Does render effect only confer battery savings to AMOLED screens?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it only affects AMOLED screens. Why? Because in an AMOLED, every pixel IS its own light source. Every pixel can turn itself on and off at will. Therefore, darker wallpapers, images, themes, etc will have more pixels at a low-power state and lead to decreased power consumption. On the other hand, LCDs have a backlight that is always on, even when looking at a "pure black" image. To produce the dark image, the LCDs have liquid crystals that polarize the light perpendicularly to each other so that (theoretically) none goes through. However there is always leakage, which is why blacks never look as black as they do on AMOLEDs (lower contrast ratio), which can literally turn off to produce true blacks. Basically for dark images, AMOLEDs are dynamic go into a lower power state while LCDs are static and maintain one relatively high power state at all times.
c00ller said:
A few answers:
I do not know the exact answer but I will tell you that PC USB ports are limited to providing a typical maximum current of 500 mA while the wall charger that came with our device is capable of 1.0 A or 1000 mA. I use an app called Battery Monitor Widget and realistically I've seen numbers like 200-300 and 500-700 mA, respectively, as the charge current is a function of battery %. What I'm saying is USB charging for Wall charging is really more a matter of how battery life is affected by charge rate. I've read on the one had moving ions too quickly in a battery can lead to decreased lifetime while on the other, fast charging avoids crystallization of battery microstructure, which is good. Read more at batteryuniversity.com
Read this post.
Yes, it only affects AMOLED screens. Why? Because in an AMOLED, every pixel IS its own light source. Every pixel can turn itself on and off at will. Therefore, darker wallpapers, images, themes, etc will have more pixels at a low-power state and lead to decreased power consumption. On the other hand, LCDs have a backlight that is always on, even when looking at a "pure black" image. To produce the dark image, the LCDs have liquid crystals that polarize the light perpendicularly to each other so that (theoretically) none goes through. However there is always leakage, which is why blacks never look as black as they do on AMOLEDs (lower contrast ratio), which can literally turn off to produce true blacks. Basically for dark images, AMOLEDs are dynamic go into a lower power state while LCDs are static and maintain one relatively high power state at all times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, will update thread to reflect information about bump charging and AMOLED.
About a month ago, I was running RoyalGinger 3.0 with bluetooth, GPS, and background data disabled, and I was only using my home wifi to get online. My phone would pretty much hold a 100% charge for 5-8 hours if I left the screen off. I was pretty amazed at my battery life. Then I decided I wanted to try a different rom, so I backed up in CWM and did that. When I returned to RoyalGinger, my phone wasn't holding the 100% charge for as long anymore and hasn't done it since then (yes, I did re-calibrate the battery, like twice at least).
Recently though, my phone has been having horrible battery life under the same conditions. The only difference is that now I use LauncherPro instead of the stock launcher. I'll charge to 100% + 15 minutes or so, and with the screen off, the phone divebombs to about 95% within an hour and a half. If I actually use the phone, it will lose 30% in 2 hours. I have no idea what the problem could be since I don't have any data-syncing apps in the background and I'm really just texting people.
Any ideas?
The consumption doesn't sound like anything out of normal. A difference in signal quality (radio or WiFi) or using radio for data instead of WiFi can cause that.
In any case, just check the apps that use your battery, and see that you don't have any process getting CPU stuck on 100% (you can see CPU load in System Panel Lite, for example).
Download the apps below.....this will help you out.....
Use the app SetCPU for Root Users
It allows control of certain aspects of the Linux cpu freq driver, allowing for overclocking, underclocking, or tweaking speeds and settings. Download it here.
Use the app Battery Booster
Battery Booster is a powerful battery boosting tool and power management application specially designed for Android devices. Download it here.
Always remember to remove the charger immediately when the battery level reach 100% for longer battery life.
Hello, taken that I came from a mammoth battery of 6000 mA of the Ulefone Power, the 3000 mA of the ZTE Axon 7 just fails short to lasting me a day.
I felt in love with the screen of the Axon 7, just to find is the highest ranking sucker for battery, which makes me have to set it black and white and dim it…. This really sucks. ;-(
I have excellent sleeping battery savings 0 to 1% using the wakelock software, but is just when I turn on -> the screen starts draining the battery quick!.
I have installed 341 user apps and 163 system apps (I debloated heavily the phone, stock launcher, gmail, photo)…. Please notice that I have paid for the PRO versions off all the software shown here. Please respect the developers and show support by buying software that help us improve our day by day usage of the Phone.
By the way I have a A2017G with a ZTE A2017GV1.0.0B03 with rooted phone + locked boot loader
I atached a file to be opened with “My App List” which is a free Google Play app so you can download all the files I mention in the thread that belong to Google Play. The apps missing are Xposed files and you have to find them in the repository - > Xposed modules will be identified with (X). Some of the titles are in Spanish (I am a Spaniard) so I have provided a screen capture so you can identify the apps icon in Google play or use “My App List”.
I will not provide the configurations, at this point, per app (just a short description)…. Maybe we can do that in another thread to define optimum performance of the Axon 7 battery once we filter out which apps we shall use
My idea is that people share their 5 cents of which apps/tricks they use for battery savings so we could create an “optimal configuration” with the recommended settings.
[No message]
Phone Signal (2g/3g/4g) + Wifi
1. Intelli3G (X) : Switch to 2g when phone off, turn off data when Wifi connected
2. PNF Root: Changes the pulse interval of the Cellphone and the Wifi
3. Auto Pilot: If phone signal drops bellow a certain value then the phone goes into airplane mode and checks every xminutes for good signal, instead of pinning all the time
4. Gestor de red wifi: Uses gsm towers to localize the wifi hot spots for the network you connect to. If you are in an area where you do not have a network it will disconnect Wifi. Good option if you forget, like me, to turn off the Wifi when I leave home
CPU / System Tweaks
1. BootManager (X): Turn Off apps in the StartUp list
2. Auto Start Manager: Turn off apps in any event (aka if you turn the GPS on I do not want Google Maps to go on until I click it, etc)
3. CPU Turner: change governors / CPU speed in per profile configuration
4. Smart Booster Pro (X) : Control RAM and close apps as needed
5. HEBF Optimizer: Kernel Optimizer, FStrim,Zipalingn, Battery Savings, etc..
Wakelock / Sleep
1. DS Ahorro de Bateria (X): Deep sleep when screen off and control how often it wakes to ping Email/Whatsapp, etc..
2. Force Doze: Force doze right away after screen off
3. Amplify: Turn off wakelocks or control pulse
4. Greenify (X): Hibernate apps
5. No Wakelocks: Block all wakelocks per app, useful for killing wakelock of games or non notification apps, for example.
6. Power Nap: Stop wakelocks/services/alarms from waking the phone during standby
7. XDA forum thread: [Guide]0%[0,0%/h] Idle Battery Drain on Stock Rom (Xposed & Amplify Required!) from Celestial Fury . This is the BIBLE of wakelock management!!
8. Doze: Prevent apps from using cell or wifi internet connection when in sleep mode.
Screen Savers
1. Color Changer: Set the screen Black and White. It is the only app that I have found that allows setting a widget to on/off both in the launcher and in the pull down notification menu.
2. Pixoff Battery Saver: Huge battery saver – Turn off (a.k.a black) leds of a pixel so you save battery, I can achieve 50% savings with acceptable resolution. You can generate also your own pattern.
3. Screen Filter: Filter to dim the screen
4. Screen Saver: Black
5. Any App that I can set black theme
6. Substratum: Theming app, I use Dark themes (paid for them): Domination / Inversion UI/ Swift Black
7. Boot Animation: Change your Boot animation to a dark one
8. TeamBlack: Change to black multiple apps: Whatsapp, Tapatalk,Playstore,Keep, etc..
9. GravityBox: Set swipe the notification bar on, so you swipe your finger left and right to quickly change the DIM.
Battery Checkers and Wakelock Analizers
1. Wackelock Detector : Wackelocks / Greenify apps
2. GSAM Battery Monitor: Wakelocks / Plot
3. BetterBatteryStats: Wakelocks / Plot
Miscellaneous
1. Root Toolbox Lite: Clean Dalvink / Cache after TRWP .zip installation
2. Prevent Running: App will only execute if on intentionally clicked
3. Battery Calibration: After each rom installation, reach 100% charge and erase Battery_Stats
4. Battery Draining: After calibration, a quick cycle of discharge to 0%.
[No message]
WoW! @j77moduss you've done a great work here. One petition, please add links to the apps and to that Bible guide for wakelock management.
Well I did this:
1. Install a debloated ROM and my list of apps. I have about 190 apps.
2. Use Amplify to detect and limit wakelocks.
At this point the deep sleep is almost nothing so I did not focus on wireless signal optimization. It wouldn't bring any significant juice.
3. Find a good CPU and I/O governor/scheduler. I am using ATK Balanced Zhana profile for the Interactive governor, initially designed for the One Plus 3 and working excellent on our Axon 7. This balanced profile can increase the SOT to 7-10 hours without any lack of performance. There are more aggressive profiles such as X.A.N.A. for ramping up and down the cores, able to provide up to 14h of SOT. But the lag and the jittering when scrolling is very annoying when using an extreme battery saver CPU profile. However those profiles are there just in case. In a charging emergency they could be very useful. Kernel Adiutor is my favorite app for Kernel tuning, and it is compatible with our stock kernel.
I am happy with the current setup. I am benchmarking (Using BetterBatteryStats) the current battery performance with different profiles. I am planning to install Naptime or ForceDoze (Naptime seems to be better, What do you think?), however I do not use much the Doze mode except at night. While at work I need to receive emails, messages, etc, while driving I use Spotify and At home I often browse internet when I am not playing with it. And again, The battery problem is more related to the screen and CPU than any other subsystem of the device after working out the software wakelocks.
Saludos
100 % stock here, no debloated, no unlocked bootloader, nothing. Just using out of the box.
5:35 hours SOT is a fantastic battery performance.
Go thru 25 apps installs, unlock bootloader, etc etc for let's see... +1:30 Hs of SOT ? Really worth the pay and time spend in this?
I am missing something here?
Sorry but is a honest question, not trolling at all.
Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017U mediante Tapatalk
Altomugriento said:
100 % stock here, no debloated, no unlocked bootloader, nothing. Just using out of the box.
5:35 hours SOT is a fantastic battery performance.
Go thru 25 apps installs, unlock bootloader, etc etc for let's see... +1:30 Hs of SOT ? Really worth the pay and time spend in this?
I am missing something here?
Sorry but is a honest question, not trolling at all.
Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017U mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It all depends on the mix of apps you use. There are some apps that are not well polished and they have too many wakelocks, or incompatibilities with some combinations creating too much battery drain. When you install more than 150 apps and you use more than 4 or 5 social apps along the day you begin noticing a huge reduction in your battery. Not to mention Spotify, Google app, Google fit, etc. Well know for keeping your phone from going to a low power mode.
As I said before, the culprit of all this problem is basically 3:
1. Wakelocks: avoid your device to enter into low power mode, this makes your phone to waste too much battery at night or when you are not using it for some minutes.
2. CPU throttle configuration: Default governors and schedulers are usually not tuned. The manufacturers do not pay special attention to this and it is critical for having a smooth device with good battery. The ramp up and down parameters are critical here. A good profile can provide you more than 10 hours SOT without any lack of performance. Sincerely, ZTE should pay attention to this since the hardware is much more powerful than just the default 5 or 6 hours of SOT.
3. AMOLED screens are very good at saving power, and if you have your theme configured in black then the screen can contribute a lot in expanding the SOT figure. Some people use the phone more than 6 hours per day and they require to apply those mesures. probably +1:30 H of battery juice can be the difference between requiring a power bank or the battery charger.
With this phone I do never have to charge it during the night. And the car charger during commuting to work is in excess enough for keeping it alive and healthy the whole day and night and with better performance when I need it. You do not need 25 apps to do so, and probably the package @j77moduss is sharing with us is excessive and for sure overwhelming to the standard user. Maybe not 25 but 5 or 6 apps to fix the 1, 2, 3 problems and another 5 or 6 to monitor the behavior in case of excessive drain is really common and can help you on extending several hours the SOT of your terminal while reducing the idle consumption.
Altomugriento said:
100 % stock here, no debloated, no unlocked bootloader, nothing. Just using out of the box.
5:35 hours SOT is a fantastic battery performance.
Go thru 25 apps installs, unlock bootloader, etc etc for let's see... +1:30 Hs of SOT ? Really worth the pay and time spend in this?
I am missing something here?
Sorry but is a honest question, not trolling at all.
Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017U mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Based on your numbers (even though they're anecdotal we can use them as a point of reference), that's giving you a 26% increase in battery with software optimization alone. I would say that's pretty damned good and worth the effort.
However, I do agree that getting 5:35hrs of SOT is pretty awesome straight out of the box. That's one of the first things that blew me away with this phone. All this power and you're getting 5:30 SOT. I light game, mid user with videos/music, but I have all my google/exchange sync to push, and have an Android Wear device connected pretty much all the time. So I expect to hit the battery a little harder than most users.
Another thing that stood out to me was the stock build. Granted, it's not as polished as some of your heavy hitters out there, but it also has a lesser footprint than most (I'm looking at you HTC and REALLY looking at you Samsung) Rooting and debloating the stock ROM has been absolutely perfect for me. I like to know exactly what my phone is running and honestly, it's worked out quite well.
Hello again, a suggestion like Lord Kelvin said "what you do not measure you cannot improve"
I have a suggestion to verify how is really running the best configuration and it is Untutu Battery test.
Maybe we could post our configuration and the Untutu result.
Any other suggestions?
@j77moduss, these are my comments on the battery extension app pack in blue:
Phone Signal (2g/3g/4g) + Wifi
1. Intelli3G (X) : Switch to 2g when phone off, turn off data when Wifi connected
2. PNF Root: Changes the pulse interval of the Cellphone and the Wifi
3. Auto Pilot: If phone signal drops bellow a certain value then the phone goes into airplane mode and checks every xminutes for good signal, instead of pinning all the time
4. Gestor de red wifi: Uses gsm towers to localize the wifi hot spots for the network you connect to. If you are in an area where you do not have a network it will disconnect Wifi. Good option if you forget, like me, to turn off the Wifi when I leave home
I leave wifi, bluetooth and LTE signal activated the whole day and night. During nigh I have about 1% drain so the cell phone signal (very low at home) or wifi are not significant energy drainers lately. Probably the monitoring task of those apps are consuming about the same wireless energy you are saving with them.
CPU / System Tweaks
1. BootManager (X): Turn Off apps in the StartUp list Usually you install things you need. Stopping push notifications removes part of the functionality, otherwise they are not started.
2. Auto Start Manager: Turn off apps in any event (aka if you turn the GPS on I do not want Google Maps to go on until I click it, etc) What are you using this for? GPS is not by any means a huge battery drainer in this phone.
3. ]CPU Turner: change governors / CPU speed in per profile configuration This is the main cause of battery drain. An optimized profile can even duplicate the screen on time.
4. Smart Booster Pro (X) : Control RAM and close apps as needed This is actually a very bad idea. Free RAM equals to wasted RAM. reading from RAM take less energy than reading from the flash storage. While the app is cached in the RAM it is not using energy until it is required. If you flush the RAM then next time your phone will use a lot more energy and time to reopen the app. This was an issue Jellybean. Nowadays clearing RAM is something we should avoid at all cost. RAM is a cache for the apps, so use it as much as possible.
5. HEBF Optimizer: Kernel Optimizer, FStrim,Zipalingn, Battery Savings, etc.. Filesystem optimizations could be improved by just switching to F2FS filesystem. This doesn't require zipaligns and it helps on saving energy and extending the life of your flash storage.
Wakelock / Sleep
1. DS Ahorro de Bateria (X): Deep sleep when screen off and control how often it wakes to ping Email/Whatsapp, etc..
2. Force Doze: Force doze right away after screen off
3. Amplify: Turn off wakelocks or control pulse
4. Greenify (X): Hibernate apps
5. No Wakelocks: Block all wakelocks per app, useful for killing wakelock of games or non notification apps, for example.
6. Power Nap: Stop wakelocks/services/alarms from waking the phone during standby
7. XDA forum thread: [Guide]0%[0,0%/h] Idle Battery Drain on Stock Rom (Xposed & Amplify Required!) from Celestial Fury . This is the BIBLE of wakelock management!!
8. Doze: Prevent apps from using cell or wifi internet connection when in sleep mode.
Numbers 1,2 and 6 seems to be somehow doing the same thing. What is the best from your point of view? why? Numbers 4 and 5 seems to be the same, however I do not find any use for them without losing functionality. No. 8 falls into the phone signal group. In this group the true game changer is Amplify.
Screen Savers
1. Color Changer: Set the screen Black and White. It is the only app that I have found that allows setting a widget to on/off both in the launcher and in the pull down notification menu.
2. Pixoff Battery Saver: Huge battery saver – Turn off (a.k.a black) leds of a pixel so you save battery, I can achieve 50% savings with acceptable resolution. You can generate also your own pattern.
3. Screen Filter: Filter to dim the screen
4. Screen Saver: Black
5. Any App that I can set black theme
6. Substratum: Theming app, I use Dark themes (paid for them): Domination / Inversion UI/ Swift Black
7. Boot Animation: Change your Boot animation to a dark one
8. TeamBlack: Change to black multiple apps: Whatsapp, Tapatalk,Playstore,Keep, etc..
9. GravityBox: Set swipe the notification bar on, so you swipe your finger left and right to quickly change the DIM.
We have one of the best screens in the market. This AMOLED Samsung panel is excellent. The absence of backlight is a great for battery savings so the more black you have, the less relevant the screen is for the SOT. Number 2 and 3 seem to be similar and I am curious about them and have my fears regarding the extra CPU required to process the screen. Which one is better? The big thing here is number 5. Number 8 is also interesting. The rest are not providing a significant advantage.
Battery Checkers and Wakelock Analizers
1. Wackelock Detector : Wackelocks / Greenify apps
2. GSAM Battery Monitor: Wakelocks / Plot
3. BetterBatteryStats: Wakelocks / Plot
I really recommend everyone to use Accubattery for at least one week to learn how to properly charge the battery. The rest of the statistics are provided by the las couple of apps you listed. Nonetheless all the battery apps are needed when you are actively tuning your phone, after a while they become useless garbage until you face another huge change such as a new ROM.
Miscellaneous
1. Root Toolbox Lite: Clean Dalvink / Cache after TRWP .zip installation This is useless in current OS. Now since the huge transition to the new ART (Android Run Time), the OS detects new installed apps so cleaning dalvik / Cache is just adding more useless drain to the battery since the AOT compiler has to process all the apps instead of only the new one. In the old times this was beneficial, not it is something you must do only if it is absolutely required.
2. Prevent Running: App will only execute if on intentionally clicked I am curius about this. what is the purpose of it regarding battery saving?
3. Battery Calibration: After each rom installation, reach 100% charge and erase Battery_Stats Why? Battery stats are aso wiped when you do a clean flash. If the OS is good enough it should take cate of recalibrating the battery. It only takes a few seconds.
4. Battery Draining: After calibration, a quick cycle of discharge to 0%.[/QUOTE] NEVER!!!!!!! There are 2 states really dangerous for the battery. One is full charge. If you reach full charge, it means that you have stressed the battery a lot in order to reach that state. New hardware battery managers just avoid reaching 100% charge just to extend the battery life. It is a common technique for PC laptops. Accubattery is one of the few battery managers that is actually focused in extending the life of your battery. You won't want to have 20% less battery after 1 year of charging it to 100% each night. Well, the second and most dangerous state for a Li-ion battery is to reach full depletion. A state of deep discharge can make it impossible to recharge again since some batteries require an extra kick not provided by the charger. Do never leave any device on until depleted, if you leave it fully discharged for a while, chances are that you will need to replace the battery. The bottom line of this is: avoid 100% charge, 85% is fair, as much as %90 and do NEVER reach full depletion. If you r phone reaches 6% just turn it off completely.
There are other ways to improve the battery such as switching to F2FS filesystem with optimized mount options. F2FS is specifically designed for flash storage. It reduces the write cycles and optimizes the use of the cache so it is far more energy efficient than the linux etx4. On the other side, it extends the life of your flash storage, including the emmc and the micro SD card die. Less writes means less wear.
Also avoid unnecessary apps, they will drain battery when rebuilding the ART AOL cache and requires extra processing for the launcher as well as for the OS in general.
I am quite happy you opened this thread with this discussion. There are other users around here such as @JeromeLeung also looking for the best performance vs. battery balance for the Axon 7.
I attach some screenshots of my battery evolution and stats for today.
Basically it drained about 1% during 5 hours at night. At work the signal is even worse and depend on the place in the building. However I spend a lot of time on wifi. At work and during the morning the screen was on for 8 hours while the battery level only drop 50%.
Extrapolating these values to a full battery level, the SOT is about 16 h
During the day I attended 3 phone calls and multiple Skype and WhatsApp calls. I used Spotify during the round trip commuting using Bluetooth. I browsed internet, I used XDA labs app, mail (tons of them), text messages, Skype, hangouts and WhatsApp messages. 4 pictures and I also had to install one app.
I only applied 4 tweaks to get this:
1. Optimized F2FS filesystem
2. Amplify
3. balanced AKT Xhana CPU profile (amazing performance)
4. Dark themes in several apps
All that using ZADmix7 ROM with stock kernel as the base system. I also enjoy premium sound with Viper4Arise that takes some CPU for the audio enhancement while playing music during commuting.
So yes, only 4 tweaks can almost triplicate the screen on time, increase performance and solve the deep sleep problem.
Oki said:
I attach some screenshots of my battery evolution and stats for today.
..... snip .....
I only applied 4 tweaks to get this:
1. Optimized F2FS filesystem
2. Amplify
3. balanced AKT Xhana CPU profile (amazing performance)
4. Dark themes in several apps
.... snip ....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the in-depth analysis. Can you explain "Amplify", which of the 5 "Xhana Balanced" profiles you used & looks like you are fine-tuning an update to the application of F2FS? How will that change F2FS implementation for those of us that haven't made the change yet?
amphi66 said:
Thanks for the in-depth analysis. Can you explain "Amplify", which of the 5 "Xhana Balanced" profiles you used & looks like you are fine-tuning an update to the application of F2FS? How will that change F2FS implementation for those of us that haven't made the change yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think they released a new all in one script called AKT that only has 2 Xana and 1 Zhana profile. Simpler! :laugh:
JeromeLeung said:
I think they released a new all in one script called AKT that only has 2 Xana and 1 Zhana profile. Simpler! :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll check again. I had downloaded the AKT just yesterday.
amphi66 said:
Thanks for the in-depth analysis. Can you explain "Amplify", which of the 5 "Xhana Balanced" profiles you used & looks like you are fine-tuning an update to the application of F2FS? How will that change F2FS implementation for those of us that haven't made the change yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The one I was using yesterday was the Xhana profile. It is under the balanced submenu of the AKT command. It won't work on stock kernel unless you enable init.d support before flashing the AKT profiles ZIP. Regarding the F2FS optimization, please read the updated OP of that thread, In my latest posts in that thread I explain the procedure to integrate the mount options in init.d. The rebuild of the filesystem structure with optimized values is about to be simpler, since we are tuning the new TWRP 3.0.3-f2fs with backported F2FS drivers from Android 4.10. Do not use it yet since it can destroy your data partition if you use it as any other TWRP!!!! 3.0.3-1 is the safest so far. But you are safe if you already have a backup of your /data and /sdcard folders.
Oki said:
The one I was using yesterday was the Xhana profile. It is under the balanced submenu of the AKT command. It won't work on stock kernel unless you enable init.d support before flashing the AKT profiles ZIP. Regarding the F2FS optimization, please read the updated OP of that thread, In my latest posts in that thread I explain the procedure to integrate the mount options in init.d. The rebuild of the filesystem structure with optimized values is about to be simpler, since we are tuning the new TWRP 3.0.3-f2fs with backported F2FS drivers from Android 4.10. Do not use it yet since it can destroy your data partition if you use it as any other TWRP!!!! 3.0.3-1 is the safest so far. But you are safe if you already have a backup of your /data and /sdcard folders.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got it. I have HawkPepper, just above "Project'. The F2FS optimizations look interesting, but a bit confusing at this point. I used F2FS on my N5, but it was simply a question of having a kernel that supported, saving sdcard contents, changing structure from TWRP and copying tbe data back again.
amphi66 said:
Got it. I have HawkPepper, just above "Project'. The F2FS optimizations look interesting, but a bit confusing at this point. I uses F2FS on my N5, but it was simply a question of having a kernel that supported, saving sdcard contents, changing structure from TWRP and copying tbe data back again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Axon 7 stock kernel supports F2FS, so you just have to do basically what you did with the N5. However there are some mount options that can optimize the structure created during the data restore, and that depends on the F2FS implementation. There are also some problems with the encryption, this is why I wrote the guide for the Axon 7.
Oki said:
The one I was using yesterday was the Xhana profile. It is under the balanced submenu of the AKT command. It won't work on stock kernel unless you enable init.d support before flashing the AKT profiles ZIP. Regarding the F2FS optimization, please read the updated OP of that thread, In my latest posts in that thread I explain the procedure to integrate the mount options in init.d. The rebuild of the filesystem structure with optimized values is about to be simpler, since we are tuning the new TWRP 3.0.3-f2fs with backported F2FS drivers from Android 4.10. Do not use it yet since it can destroy your data partition if you use it as any other TWRP!!!! 3.0.3-1 is the safest so far. But you are safe if you already have a backup of your /data and /sdcard folders.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mind sharing the Amplify wakelocks/alarms/services settings you have on your phone? Just bought the app, but have no idea what is safe to tweak without breaking the phone </3
Pollito788 said:
Do you mind sharing the Amplify wakelocks/alarms/services settings you have on your phone? Just bought the app, but have no idea what is safe to tweak without breaking the phone </3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't limited the system too much. I do not want to get rid of receiving messages or limiting location services, so I allowed the wakelocks to be active every 180 sec. I limited: GCoreFlp, Location ManagerService, NlpWakeLock, AudioIn, bluedroid_timer, NlpCollectorWakeLock.
Same for alarms: com.droid27.twc.ACTION_TIMER_TICK, ch.bitspin.timely.widget.UPDATE_ACTION and com.android.chrome/com.google.ipc.invalidation.external.client.contrib.AndroidListener$AlarmReceiver.
I have not limited any service. I do not want to save battery while losing features.
I was losing about 1% through the night so I do not need to go very aggressive on Amplify configuration. I just force close Spotify after using it since I see it drains the battery when not in use. Amplify is not per-se a battery saver, it helps you on controlling rogue apps.
As you could see, the magic for saving battery is not Amplify, but the good tunables for the Interactive CPU governor and IO scheduler provided by AKT. These days I have been testing different Governors and I have found that BurnoutPR3 is best for benchmarks but for a daily driver Balanced Shana profile is awesome. With it I get from 10 to 16 hrs. of SOT depending on the high load time I put on the CPU (pictures, video recording time, youtube...).
I never charge the phone by night with the Axon 7 since I do not need it, all thanks to QC 3.0, I barely charge it in my car while commuting to work and by night, if I am under 40%, I load it about 25 mins to 70% and next morning while my 15 mins commuting time it reaches about 85-90% (never full charge it if you want your battery to last more than a few months). Short sessions of quick charge are healthier than long sessions to 100%. On the other hand do never leave your battery run out of charge or close to 0%. AccuBattery app can teach you how to get healthier charging habits.
Saludos
Oki said:
I haven't limited the system too much. I do not want to get rid of receiving messages or limiting location services, so I allowed the wakelocks to be active every 180 sec. I limited: GCoreFlp, Location ManagerService, NlpWakeLock, AudioIn, bluedroid_timer, NlpCollectorWakeLock.
Same for alarms: com.droid27.twc.ACTION_TIMER_TICK, ch.bitspin.timely.widget.UPDATE_ACTION and com.android.chrome/com.google.ipc.invalidation.external.client.contrib.AndroidListener$AlarmReceiver.
I have not limited any service. I do not want so safe battery while losing features.
I was lust losing about 1% through the night so I do not need to go very aggressive on Amplify configuration. I just force close Spotify after using it since I see it drains the battery when not in use. Amplify is not per-se a battery saver, it helps you on controlling rogue apps.
As you could see, the magic for saving battery is not Amplify, but the good tunables for the Interactive CPU governor and IO scheduler provided by AKT. These days I have been testing different Governors and I have found that BurnoutPR3 is best for benchmarks but for a daily driver Balanced Shana profile is awesome. With it I get from 10 to 16 hrs. of SOT depending on the high load time I put on the CPU (pictures, video recording time, youtube...).
I never charge the phone by night with the Axon 7 since I do not need it thankls to QC 3.0, I barely charge it in my car while commuting to work and, if by night I am under 40% I load it about 25 mins to 70% and next morning while my 15 mins commuting time it reaches about 85-90% (never full charge it if you want your battery to last more than a few months). Short sessions of quick charge are healthier than long sessions to 100%. On the other hand do never leave your battery run out of charge or close to it. AccuBattery can teach you how to get healthier charging habits.
Saludos
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appreciate the detailed explanation. Thanks a bunch !