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So I read this fuzemobility.com article about battery life and thought I'd write a super long comment with sweet hyperlinks but it turned out to be too long for their blog configuration. So my XDA friends, here it is. I invite you to contribute any tips and insight you may have to the handful of gems I came up with about gems other people came up with:
WMLongLife by Chainfire, the venerable codemaster known most for wmwifirouter (even though his other work is awesomely impressive), drops you down from H*/3G to EDGE when your screen shuts off for a minute. It will also kill the data connection if inactive for a minute. When you turn the screen back on, it stays on edge, but if you start an app from a 3G whitelist you make, like including Opera and SiriusWM5 but not FlexMail, that app will kick it back into 3G. Switching from edge to 3G takes roughly six seconds he says but probably worth it if you like to save yourself battery (and your gonads from radiation).
Thread
Lumos by nik3r is a great replacement to HTC's included backlight adjusting system. It uses the light meter and you can specify how dim you're willing to go in dark conditions and how bright you have to have it in sunlight. You can tweak every point in between if you want, define what conditions you believe to be bright (and warranting full backlight juice) and dark (running low power). Very low cpu usage, low memory, no battery drain when not using the phone, no cpu involved with fluttering backlight levels, delightful gui frontend, fun to configure. Requires phone with a light meter like the Raphael and Diamond.
Thread
IMAP-Idle or push activesync or instant messaging or PocketPuTTy or PocketIRC or PornTube or anything that keeps the data connection open, even with very little throughput going on, drains substantially harder than having no data connection (just phone, SMS) so use that knowing you're sacrificing battery life (which I do). I'm not sure about this but if you like to use AIM and have an unlimited text messanging plan, using an sms-based IM client like OZ Messenger/Mobile IM may use less juice than something like Agile or IM+ which keeps the connection alive. What I am right about is insisting that you use Outlook Email Scheduler to specify Pocket Outlook synchronizing frequencies over peak and off-peak hours, brilliant program (also does imap idle!!). So with this, in addition to "push" mail which now supports gmail (it's actually called IMAP-idle with non-Exchange mail servers), you can set your phone to cycle pocket outlook synching, say, every five minutes during the day and every half hour after 10pm, whatever you want.
Thread, website.
This one is more for convenience than it is a miracle battery saver, but Touch InCall Screen Tweak by StevePritchard shuts your screen off when you take a call and put the thing to your head and, using the light and g-sensor, when you pull it away as if to dial in your calling card it lights it back up and when you put it back to your head, it dims it. Very handy. The NoSleepRaphael killer.
Thread.
I definitely do not recommend trying this if you are afraid of danger or bricking your phone but here are two links for you crazy underclockers. I can't tell so far if it does in fact successfully throttle my processor, I can't tell if I was able to get the speed back up either by setting it back or by uninstalling, I just don't know but here it is. Couldn't find much feedback so if any of you know how to test battery drain and also don't care about warranty compliance, maybe post results in this thread which I have no doubt will blow up into huge popularity . You must have a Qualcomm MSM7XXX(A)-based processor, so google first to double check:
nueDynamicClock, nueClockControl
Raphael/Touch Pro/Fuze users: Make sure you got the right radio with the right rilphone.dll properly installed. If you're AT&T grab 1.12.25.19, not 1.14.25.05 (I've only seen mixed reviews and I myself was not breathtaken it), and then Chainfire and P1Tater's 1.12.25.19/rilphone.dll combo cab. If you're not AT&T, I believe you want to stick to 1.11.25.01 (and grab the right rilphone cab accordingly). If you're fully Olipro-unlocked, you probably know enough about non-Raphael radios and don't need my advice.
Raph radios, Chainfire/P1Tater raph rilphones.
Rhodium Manila is badass, I know, and I have a lot of respect and appreciation for xboxmod and his posse (I'm really in awe) but don't use Rhodium Manila if you want to save battery life (or ram or storage or cpu) more than you want to be dazzled by TP2TF3D. Use pjc's ripped oldschool HTC Home (vga) with TodayAgenda underneath. Maybe SPB Mobile Shell's better than regular Manila, it's probably better than Rhodium Manila (in terms of battery at least) unless you're spinning the 3D stuff nonstop. I don't know about WM6.5's efficiency. Just flashed it. If you know, post. SPB Mobile Shell's trialware btw.
PJC's HTC Home thread, TodayAgenda's site, SPB's site.
If you try to do your own power tests to contribute your scientific studies to your local Ultimate Radio Thread, keep in mind that in lower signal areas your phone must crank out bigger radio waves to reach the tower. So you must be careful to keep everything constant except the variable, the radio, including the time-range during the day you do battery and bandwidth tests (including weekdays versus weekends when switching from one to the other) as in dense areas, capacity gets maxed out with carriers who don't have enough infrastructure to handle the loads. I get this all the time even in Manhattan where you'd think AT&T would get their poop together.
You could cruise through the Accessories forum of your phone (here's the Raphael's) to hunt down an extended life battery but those tend not to be cheap, they make your phone thicker, you have to recalibrate your phone's mechanism to measure battery power and the initial charging training is a ***** and there's a chance you'll get ripped off so consider just buying an extra OEM battery and maybe an extra charger for your office. They fit well in that little secret pocket of your jeans, unless you already use it for a zippo lighter.
Contrary to popular belief, there is no memory effect issue with lithium ion batteries. Don't do full discharges with this intent. Don't do that. Your battery's longevity diminishes over usage, including deliberate discharges. Best bet, for a phone you rely on, is to charge whenever you can charge. Yes a battery's longevity diminishes faster over time if you store it with a full charge (verus 50%) extendedly, but hey, you need that sucker ready to go so use it and buy another one eventually. Temperature and resistance also accelerates decline meaning if you use an equivilant amount of milliamp hours over a week with your phone on standby versus four hours using GPS or wifi, and you do this a lot, it takes a heavier toll on your battery. If you have two batteries and tether or GPS or wifi a lot and then are in situations where you don't do that, consider designating with a sharpie one battery for brutal use and the other for light use. If you're draining heavily over long periods of time while charging your phone, that eats away at your battery's long-term longevity the same as if you used it and then charged it. Actually probably a little more because charging your battery heats it up even hotter than tethering all your pr0n which hurts. Two batteries. Drop $45 at your local dealer or search on froogle to save a few bucks.
According to IRC, there is no idle drain difference between regular 3G and HSDPA (but there is between either of those and EDGE). It all comes down to throughput, not the protocol; however, if you're in a rural area where there is only EDGE, you probably want to shut off 3G as, I'm told, your phone eats up considerable juice by trying to search for a 3G tower. Note that charging on USB theoretically gives you 500mA tops (more like 400 at best) whereas your charger is 1A (at least for the TP). If your phone gets hotter than 43 degrees celsius (use BatteryStatus or this Battery.zip which is a ppc exe to monitor temperature and drain) it will, based on my studies, charge slower, and not at all at 47. ABCPowermeter, by the way, does not work on Touch Pros and I'm guessing on its cousins either.
That's it I'm done.
Doug
Very nice post. Thank you.
Thanks for the write up.
I really appreciate it and some of the methods actually works for me.
All the best!
check it
This dude bauerpavel made a pretty badass pimp tight post on batteries. I didn't really read it but I can tell at first glance that he knows what he's talkin' 'bout.
Thanks for the info. I found this really well written & concise
d0ugie said:
So my XDA friends, here it is. I invite you to contribute any tips and insight you may have to the handful of gems I came up with about gems other people came up with:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice roundup, well done! So, not much left to add. Still, this is my contribution:
Like Touch InCall Screen, cleanRAM isn't a miracle battery saver. But scheduling it and not letting it wake up your device to clean your RAM, could also increase battery life if it kills zombie battery draining processes. And managing your memory this way also keeps you from soft resetting, saving battery.
In Advanced Config, enable all the Power Management settings. And I have Network - Turn off Wi-Fi if no activity: set to Yes; Network - Wi-Fi auto off timeout: set to 1m; and in Menu - More settings - Connections, enable Disconnect after: set to 45s. I don't know how much impact the G-sensor and Light sensor polling intervals have on the battery. But it probably won't hurt if you increase them to a level that works for you.
Apart from all the nice sensor based (un)locking and launching features this lightweight application offers, I have TouchLockPro set to suspend my Diamond again after 5s, after it is woken up without unlocking it. Enough time for me to unlock it. Or just check the time or check whatever application running in the foreground at the moment of suspend. Because TLP has no foreground window like S2U2 or PocketShield.
Using a locking mechanism is already a battery saver by design, by the way. As it prevents unwanted key and touch screen actions that could possibly have an effect on your battery life.
I'm also used to suspend my device myself whenever I think I won't use it for some time. As long as it doesn't take too much time. So I've set the G-Sensor options in TouchLockPro to lock and suspend when I place it face down on any surface. And it also locks and suspends on top down. So I just have to put my Diamond upside down in my pocket, as I always do, and have it locked and suspended.
When it lies face up, I don't need to pick it up and rotate it in any way. I just keep the WinMo start button pressed for about 1s, because the QuickMenu option Long-press win logo is set to suspend.
Just in case I forget to suspend it myself I have the WinMo Settings - System - Power - Advanced options set to the lowest possible settings. Backlight off after 10s and Device off after 40s on battery power. And I have Backlight - Auto adjust backlight disabled for Lumos, of course. There's just one problem. Sometimes, somehow, Backlight - Auto adjust backlight is enabled and both Advanced - Turn off backlight and device are disabled. Without me knowing. I've noticed it a few times after a soft reset, but I can't reproduce it at will. Maybe I'll look for a way to force my power settings after soft reset.
d0ugie said:
ABCPowermeter, by the way, does not work on Touch Pros and I'm guessing on its cousins either.
Doug
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
acbTaskMan (which includes CPU and power graphing ability of acbPowerMeter) does have a version compatible with the newer HTC devices. I'm using 1.4.2 on my HTC Diamond.
Another Way of Switchiing Phone Band
Another way to switch phone band, based on MortScript and Vijay555's VJOKButt. Very lite but it works, check here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=3726097&postcount=11171
Be careful with any automatic band switches as if it does it during a phone call it WILL drop the call. Also keep in mind that if you force things to EDGE you cannot do voice and data at the same time.
In my experience, there is zero power usage difference in EDGE and 3G/HSPA except when transferring data. If my phone is running its normal compliment of programs (GPSToday, S2U2 2.02, PhoneAlarm, KaiserNotification, AEButton Plus, GPSGate, CellID (uploads CID to predefined location if changed every 10m), etc, the phone runs <1%/hr battery. If I enable Flexmail, which has two online IMAP mail boxes and about 6 others it syncs every 6 hours, 7-8%/hr on 3G, 3-4% on EDGE. So as the OP mentions, it's data usage/throughput/type but not necessarily just being connected, has to be in use.
As for backlights, personally I can't stand those programs that autoadjust the backlight as it ALWAYS fails in my office where the phone gets in the shadows and then I can't read the screen because it's too dim. But perhaps still useful if you can set how low it can go, as long as it doesn't interfere with PhoneAlarm, which I use to set the backlight for some given profiles (night time, car daytime, etc).
Good post, hope some people learn from it.
Yep...
You're fricken awesome.... Need I say more?
I just thought I should point out that you can see a marked improvement in battery life when using TF3D2 if you go to the internet tab/menu/data settings and disable push pages!
where i tup your .exe ?
in internal folder ?
khaytsus said:
Be careful with any automatic band switches as if it does it during a phone call it WILL drop the call. Also keep in mind that if you force things to EDGE you cannot do voice and data at the same time.
In my experience, there is zero power usage difference in EDGE and 3G/HSPA except when transferring data. If my phone is running its normal compliment of programs (GPSToday, S2U2 2.02, PhoneAlarm, KaiserNotification, AEButton Plus, GPSGate, CellID (uploads CID to predefined location if changed every 10m), etc, the phone runs <1%/hr battery. If I enable Flexmail, which has two online IMAP mail boxes and about 6 others it syncs every 6 hours, 7-8%/hr on 3G, 3-4% on EDGE. So as the OP mentions, it's data usage/throughput/type but not necessarily just being connected, has to be in use.
As for backlights, personally I can't stand those programs that autoadjust the backlight as it ALWAYS fails in my office where the phone gets in the shadows and then I can't read the screen because it's too dim. But perhaps still useful if you can set how low it can go, as long as it doesn't interfere with PhoneAlarm, which I use to set the backlight for some given profiles (night time, car daytime, etc).
Good post, hope some people learn from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, if I understand correctly, the option "disconnect data connection after xx min" will not change the battery consumption ?
I can let my Phone continuously on HSDPA or EDGE with no difference, only when I use the connection.
other question, wich one (EDGE or HSDPA) consume more power when transmitting ?
thanks
Maybe this Battery Guard application could prove handy for battery conservation fanatics
Thanks for this post. I am about to get a Touch Diamond and have heard about poor battery life. This post gives me some confidence that I should be able to tweak my device.
pwye said:
Thanks for this post. I am about to get a Touch Diamond and have heard about poor battery life. This post gives me some confidence that I should be able to tweak my device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a HTC mate & the battery life will always be crap, its the price we pay to be cutting edge i guess
I am trying to compile a large list of tips and tricks that we users can use to extend the life of our small batteries.
List is here:
http://android-simplicity.blogspot.com/2009/08/bag-of-tricks-1-increase-battery-life.html
On-Going Power saving List
1. Under-clock your cpu(for root users only). Download->over clocking widget->set cpu speed to lowest value
2. Turn off GPS
3. Reduce the number of start up apps
4. Restart phone
5. Lower screen brightness
6. Turn off Wi-fi when you are not around any wifi networks
7. Turn off 3G Mobile Data Network - Settings--->Wireless Controls--->Mobile Networks and check the box that says "Use Only 2G Networks.
8. Disable auto Data Sync
9. Download and install "Power Manager"
10. Disable back ground apps - [~JDBDogg]
11. Turn off keyboard backlight (for Dream/G1 only for obvious reasons) with Backlight Off app. Only works on rooted phones. [~Chahk]
12. Turn off any unnecessary noises or vibrations, such as for on-screen keyboard and games. [~AdamPI]
13. Make sure your firmware and apps are up to date, efficiency may be improved. [~AdamPI]
14. Use headphones. [~AdamPI]
15. Turn off Bluetooth. [~AdamPI]
16. [~Yours goes here]
If you have any tricks that you use to get the most time juice out of your phone, please share them to the rest of us. Thanks.
Disable background apps
Turn off keyboard backlight (for Dream/G1 only for obvious reasons) with Backlight Off app. Only works on rooted phones.
Chahk said:
Turn off keyboard backlight (for Dream/G1 only for obvious reasons) with Backlight Off app. Only works on rooted phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nice, one ! didnt think of that~
Lower the time it takes for the screen to time out.
Id also say take off any widgets you may have but i guess that falls underneath the "disable background apps" category
Bluetooth isn't mentioned.
Turn off any unnecessary noises or vibrations, such as for on-screen keyboard and games.
Make sure your firmware and apps are up to date, efficiency may be improved.
I'd guess using headphones is better than the speaker, plus no-one on the bus wants to hear your "music".
Has anyone tested decoding efficiency of video and audio codecs? AAC saves space, but does it use more battery than mp3?
up to 15
AdamPI said:
Bluetooth isn't mentioned.
Turn off any unnecessary noises or vibrations, such as for on-screen keyboard and games.
Make sure your firmware and apps are up to date, efficiency may be improved.
I'd guess using headphones is better than the speaker, plus no-one on the bus wants to hear your "music".
Has anyone tested decoding efficiency of video and audio codecs? AAC saves space, but does it use more battery than mp3?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now thats thinking out of the box. Thanks AdamPI
We have now 15 on the list. Lets see how long this can go~
Someone should do a test using all of these tricks and do a comparison, although it will be a very boring phone at this point with everything off.
Don't use a ROM that requires a linux-swap Partition
This causes the phone to die faster because the sd card is constantly being acessed
jf4888 said:
Don't use a ROM that requires a linux-swap Partition
This causes the phone to die faster because the sd card is constantly being acessed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SD Cards are so cheap these days that you shoudn't worry about damaging them. In a weird way though, this advice does make sense. Swap = more apps are being kept in memory, thus more work being performed by the phone, which translates to higher power consumption.
But then again, following this logic a similar advice would be to not run any apps at all. Or better yet, just shut your phone off! Maybe then it will last a full day on a single charge
Seriously though, if you're worried about damaging your phone, read up on Lithium-Ion/Polymer batteries and how to prolong their lifespan. The main points are:
Don't let them get too hot. Heat damages battery cells and cause them to lose their capacity.
Deep discharge cycles (letting the battery drain before fully charging them) kill these batteries fast. LiIon/LiPolymer batteries like to be "topped off" once the level gets to 60-70% mark.
Discharge cycles can improve state-of-charge estimation, so only perform those when the battery meter goes out of whack and doesn't tell the charge level properly. This doesn't happen often.
They don't suffer from the "memory" and overcharge issues that used to plague batteries using older technologies (NiCad/NiMH), so it's safe to keep the phone plugged in whenever you can.
The "first-time cycle" is a myth left over from Nickel-based batteries. This means you don't need to charge the batter for 8 hours the first time you use it.
Do not use "fast chargers" since their usage can decrease the lifespan of the battery.
Get an app that turns off your data network completely (like WiSyncPlus). Not just "use 2G only" but COMPLETELY. I can go a whole weekend, with normal use, without charging my phone if I need to. (From one Fri 6am to Sun 6pm give or take was my best)
The one I use (WiSyncPlus, there are others I guess) turns off the network automatically when I unplug the charger from my phone. Txt msgs piggy back the cellular network so no issue there, otherwise, if I want to jump on the internet or check the weather, I hit the toggle switch on my Home screen...in ~3secs I'm all set again. Toggle back off when finished.
Best $3 by far I've spent on an app for my G1.
i use APNdroid for that
No one mentioned using a ROM that allows changes to the CPU scaling.
I'm on Cyanogen 4.1.2.1 and I have it scaled from 245 to 527 with the CPU only jumping up to the next clock speed when it needs it.
So, most of the time, my phone is on 245 and it clocks to 383 and then 527 as needed. I had overclock widget set so it showed me the current clock speed. Once I was comfortable with the frequency and load under which it changed speeds, I removed the widget from the desktop.
I use my phone a lot and it lasts a full day easily.
if youre using a hero rom there is an option to completely turn off mobile networks so there is no data connecion at all.
i have to go with
turn the phone off
get a car charger
spare battery or extended one
With the HD2's pretty short battery life compared to my previous HTC phones, and also as I was a bit bored , I decided to have a look at how much the different systems drain in the HD2, and did some tests.
So for anyone interested, here are the results:
Base consumptions: (pick the one that suits your situation)
Standby, phone on, WIFI+BT off, no connections active: 5mA
Processor running idle, screen off, connections as above: 55mA
100% CPU usage (Coreplayer benchmark), connections as above: 315mA
USB connected, connections as above: 125mA
Additions: (add this to the base one depending on what you have on)
Connections:
BT on, idle: +1mA
Wifi on, idle: +5mA BUT!! If you enable wifi during standby (with BsB Tweaks or the WifiNoStandby CAB), the processor does NOT go to standby
anymore, so the base needs to be the 55mA above!
Connected to EDGE, idle: not measureable
Connected to 3G, idle: +4mA
Beware those 2 will occasionally and unpredictably send data every now and then, so this doesn't necessarily mean much.
BT transfer (file copy through ActiveSync, 120kB/s, CPU usage ~2%): +80mA
Wifi transfer (file copy with Wifi Remote access, 1MB/s, CPU usage ~3%): +200mA
EDGE/3G transfer: Pretty impossible to measure due to so many variables, but can be extreme (total current consumptions of 850-1150mA, so very approximative 500-800mA draw from the data connection during page loads are common!), and leads to most of the energy draw when using the net a lot. EDGE uses more power than 3G, consumption is higher when network coverage is lower, bad network throughput or congestion also mean lots of retries/overhead and less effective data transfer, using power for a longer time until the data is finally there.
Memory access (large file transfer):
Internal read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 2.5 / 2.1 MB/s respectively): +20mA / +130mA
Card read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 3.2 / 2.7MB/s respectively): +25mA / +40mA
Card read/write in USB disk mode (speeds 7.5 / 5MB/s respectively): +40mA / +45mA
Backlight:
10%: +65mA
20%: +78mA
30%: +90mA
40%: +105mA
50%: +121mA
60%: +136mA
70%: +154mA
80%: +170mA
90%: +190mA
100%:+210mA
GPS:
+95mA
Flashlight (with HTC Flashlight):
Level 1: +32mA
Level 2 (same as camera flash on): +107mA
Level 3 (same as camera "bright flash during shot"): +530mA
And remember the battery capacity: 1230mAh
So with this you can calculate your battery life for various activities. For example:
- Playing a video with full backlight: Let's say the video is well encoded (30% CPU use, for example 720x400 1Mbps DivX), that's about 150mA base, + 210mA backlight = 360mA, resulting in about 3h20 battery life.
- Same at night with only 40% backlight: Life goes up to about 5h!
- Wifi during standby for an 8h night, or a program that somehow prevents the phone from entering standby: 60mA or 55mA respectively, draining about 40% of the battery during that time.
- GPS program, with 70% backlight: Let's assume 150mA for the processor as it has some work to do, 90mA for the GPS, 154mA for the backlight = 394mA, or 3 hours.
- Music through wired headphones, screen off: the 55mA base plus a little 5mA as MP3 decoding is nothing for the CPU = 60mA or 20h.
- Same with a BT headset, with about half the BT bandwidth: 60+40 = 100mA or 12h
etc.
Charging
[EDIT 14.04.10]
This is now a dedicated section as I did some more thorough charging tests.
So, as some of you might know, the HD2 has 2 charging "modes".
- One is USB, that is used if the phone is connected to a PC, or an unknown device. In this mode, the current the HD2 will draw from the port/charger is limited to approx. 470mA, to stay within the maximum of 500mA a USB port can supply.
- The other is "dedicated charger", which is recognised on the original HTC charger (and some others, it's becoming a standard for a "dedicated charging USB port") by shorting of the 2 data pins of the USB connector in the charger.
USB charge
Important to know, during USB charge, the phone will NOT go to sleep, as it's supposed to be connected to a PC, and be running either ActiveSync, Disk drive mode, or modem, and in all 3 cases would be expected not to shutdown. So not only the current supplied to the HD2 is low, but the phone draws some of it for itself, leaving very little for actual charge - so expect loooong charge times.
USB charge with screen on (backlight dimmed, 10%): 285mA
USB charge with screen off (standby): 345mA (which shows the processor still runs and draws the "base USB" current)
Dedicated charger
When used with a charger that has the 2 USB data pins shorted, such as the original charger, the HD2 will draw a current that is proportional to the voltage on the USB power lines. To measure this I have used the original supplied USB cable, a variable regulated power supply, USB socket (with data pins shorted), and 2 meters for voltage/current. Voltages are measured at the "PC" end of the USB cable, so not taking account of losses in the USB cable. Will talk more about this later on.
Current vs Voltage diagrams are attached. Charge current is proportional to voltage, linearly until it reaches the max charge current, approx 830mA. This was measured so that the only draw is charge. If the phone is turned on while at max charge current, it will draw extra, until it reaches about 980mA, and will then stop to respect the 1A rating of the stock charger.
Now, to the influence of USB cables. I initially had some trouble with inconsistant numbers, phone only drawing 670mA from the stock charger, i.e matching neither the ~350mA from USB, or ~830mA from stock charger in "normal" condition. Turns out that to make it more convenient on my workplace I was using an USB extension between charger and HD2 cable. It was a $2 extension I bought on Dealextreme. Removing it solved the problem... and after making those measurements I poked with it again. Turns out that at 1A current, the voltage drop in the extension (which by the way isn't longer than the HD2's USB cable) was 1.8V! Yep, nearly 2 Ohms for a 1.5m extension! Couldn't believe it.
I have a cheap Chinese microUSB cable that wasn't as bad,but still significantly more resistive than the stock one, hence me noting I used the stock cable for my tests. So, quality of the cables, extensions, adapters IS important! Note the phone correctly reaches full charge current a little bit under the 5V USB spec, so everything is well tuned.
Now, important to know, Most 3rd party chargers will not have the 2 USB data pins shorted, and will thus result in the same behavior as mentioned under USB charge, the processor will also be running continuously drawing the "base USB" current.
It is often possible to modify 3rd party chargers by opening them and shorting the pins, speeding up charge. The voltage/current curve behavior is actually helping there, because thanks to it if the charger is overloaded its voltage will most likely fall a bit, and the HD2 will thus draw less and find a nice balance point. This DOES NOT mean there's no possiblilty of damaging the charger, but all 3 I modified did well. One that was really weak resulted in not much more current being drawn after the mod than before (i.e voltage fell very low, approx. 4.4V), however the gain from not having the processor running like in USB mode still sped up charge a little.
Thank you, that is one useful chunk of comprehensive information
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%... nice to know battery drain goes up twice from 10% to 60%!
Also, 100% is usually really necessary under direct sunlight, in a normal lit room probably 40% backlight is more than enough to watch a video... all in all, with your superinteresting info, the battery doesn't look like lasting "too short" now, but more or less "the right amount considering the battery capacity".
My iPaq 210 has a 2200mAh battery, just to make a comparison... that's why I could go for 8 hrs during some bus trips while watching tv series, and I just needed to swap battery and used a little of the second one.
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Battery levels
I found that power consumption of the battery got even worse after I went to Rom 1.66.707.1. However, after a few days, I let it run all the way out, switched back on, it ran out after a few minutes. Then after an overnight charge I found the battery (on standby) only went down by about 10 -12 % in 24hrs. I'm hoping this performance will continue.
What did you use for the testing?
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be reasonable as reading from an external media will need energy to access its contents... still, once the app files have been loaded into the device's RAM, it shouldn't matter much
You could also test by comparing:
1) copy say 30mb from one location to another of the internal mem
2) copy from microsd to microsd
3) copy from mem to microsd
4) copy from microsd to mem
ephestione said:
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
ephestione said:
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really? You should force the backlight off then
I love bright images myself, so even in my bed in total darkness if I watch a video or photos I'll force 100% backlight I have Lumos set to force 100% for Coreplayer, Resco Photo manager and HTC album
Of course not for browsing or just messing around, in that case it's 20% for me
Shasarak said:
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's one thing I'd have no idea about... I've never used push email at all. And that's "standby usage", so hard to evaluate, as you never know when it kicks in.
Measuring that would need to be done on a long time. I'd say to leave your phone one night with push email off, one night with Exchange only, and one night with hotmail only, and then check the difference, preferably with a battery at about 80% charge at the start (mine seems to fall from 100% to 90% in a few minutes before becoming more regular, so I'd say the top of the scale isn't that reliable).
And I should really try push email once, that would be nice, but I *think* I have no provider that can do it for me... well I have a gmail account I never use, I should try to see if I can have it check my usual 3 mail accounts, aggregate and push... never really looked into that stuff.
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Well I'd tend to refute that theory, because when I tested the BT and Wifi in use I tried read from internal memory, write to internal, read from card and write to card, and all 4 were identical. I should have mentioned it indeed, but I was mostly interested to seeing if reads (wifi/BT "sending") and writes (wifi/BT "receiving") would have an influence on consumption, which wasn't the case, as well as whether the throughput was different, which wasn't the case either.
But I've done a few more tests, see the updated first post
One intersting thing is firstly that when the HD2 is connected to USB, the current draw grows significantly, so I've made a new "base consumption".
Next, the card is actually faster than the internal memory both in reads and in writes, tested both through activesync for consistency. Writing to the internal memory eats a LOT more than writing to the card. Reading from the card eats a little more than reading from internal memory, probably evens out as the reads are shorter due to faster transfer rate.
I've added some charging tests as well. Apparently, even if the phone "disconnects" from USB when turned off, the processor still runs and uses about the "USB connected" base current.
kilrah said:
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
d'oh aebplus has a battery information screen, checking it right away In that case you'd have to take into consideration aebplus' current absorption anyway... which is not measurable as you cannot check the current intake of aebplus without aebplus being running
I have the cab on the sd already, but didn't install if after noticing that didn't work for button assignments with later versions of the rom... does it work for you on that side? I used the program all the time on my previous ipaq because it was oh so useful but never got around to notice it had a battery info subsection.
Really? You should force the backlight off then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't have much sense doing it in the dark would it (admitting it's possible altogether on the HD2!)
But I actually used my oooold casio cassiopeia, about 7 years ago, with backlight turned off, while reading ebooks with speed reader plus during train trips, as the neon lights created a reflection good enough on the display so that I didn't need backlight...
in the end, the backlight died altogether and until I bought a new device, I managed to use it with light turned off
A flashing LED (incoming SMS warning, e.g.) seems to add consumption of 1-3mA.
Running FlexMail in background with a push service (IMAP IDLE) adds up to 30mA.
ephestione said:
does it work for you on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AEBPlus works fine for me yes... but I don't have a "latest version" ROM AFAIK. I don't like WM6.5.x new softkey arrangement, so I'm staying with 6.5.
Anyway more about Push, I configured that through gmail yesterday, and it works just fine. I left it on during the night, and this morning I had lost 8% battery. So it's pretty much negligible. I received 2 e-mails during the night and was on 3G network.
this is a nice topic! i am interested in how much extra it uses when you are playing a MP3 with the build in HTC app?
maybe it would be a nice idea to make a program that outputs results like you pasted fast and easy (something like a benchmark app) so we can test different rom's fast? too bad i cant write anything otherwise i would try..
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
my test,
HD2 rom 1.66
with BT on and BT off (configured but no connection to headset) difference in consumption is 60mA .!
BT is draining my HD2 .!
kilrah said:
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Yup. review over multiple 6 mins. all baseline(3g/brightness) setting the same. resetting each time for off on BT.
kilrah said:
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another consideration:
Data connection sucks power when used actively. Badly. As mentioned in the OP I haven't made comprehensive tests due to low monthly allowance, but I've had a look during normal use.
I'm pretty regularly doing 1hr train rides, during which I will be listnening to music , and browse the net at the same time. It's usually bright, so backlight will probably be at 70%. Signal is relatively low most of the time, on EDGE, inbetween small towns. When I'm on a "static" page (reading an already loaded page), current drain varies between 250 and 350mA.
But while loading a page, it will easily soar to 800mA+. Considering it takes 30-60 seconds to read a page, 20 to load a new one, and repeat... you can quickly see that this kind of usage leads to serious drain... in less than 2 hours the battery would be dead.
So be aware of how much power data connection will use. It's directly proportional to the amount of transferred data, and the worse the reception the more power it uses.
I should try using opera mini again, like I was always doing on my Kaiser. I never noticed excessive drain with it, but opera mini easily divides traffic by a factor of 10...
Just wanted to report that the new version of the superuseful BattClock has now a builtin battery current output, even if it's not really update once per second... seems more like one every 10 seconds.
I get ~240mA playing fullscreen stretched Frasier in lowest backlight (but that's with the keypad leds turned on all the time, I don't know why they don't go off, and I don't have keypadledcontrol installed... so that's a problem), and I get a total 630mA with HTC flashlight at maximum.
Good news! Bye bye Batti
Normal about the refresh time, the sensor only updates every 20 secs or so.
Some new considerations I posted somewhere else but should have put here.
After some time the HD2 seems to have better battery life, but usually it's not your battery lasting longer, it's just you not spending your day playing with the thing anymore.
It's always the same thing, the more a device can do, the more you do with it. On my first 1h train journeys after getting my HD2, I was able to kill 50% battery in 1hr. My first thought was "wow, with my Kaiser I would only use like 15%!!"
But then I took a second thought. I used 50%, but I was browsing the web, in bad reception areas, while listening to music the whole time. With my Kaiser, I'd put music on, check 3 webpages, then put it on the tray with just MSN connected and just pick it up to read/type a message once in a while.
On a next trip, I "forced myself" to do the same with the HD2. Just checked the news for 5 mins, then only listened to music and picked up msn once in a while, plus an unexpected 10min phone call. Guess what? I've only used 20% battery during the trip this time
The "problem" is that browsing with the Kaiser was just painful, so I'd just check the news and put it away. On the HD2 it's so comfortable I forget it and just spend my whole trip browsing heavy pages, which obviously kills battery in no time...
exactly my thoughts and findings
Battery Calibration/Improving Battery life
Requirements:
Device needs to be rooted "Obviously".
Need to have Rom Tool Box Lite or Rom Tool Box Pro.
Some Basic Knowledge on how to use the app.
Note: Turn off Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, GPS, and Auto-sync if they are not in use. Hold down the notifications bar to disable them and activate the Power Saving mode which will make the device conserve energy under low battery state.
Battery Calibration Procedure.
1. Use your phone until the phone battery drains out completely and device gets switched off
2. Switch on the Device to make sure battery really is 0%.
3. Now plug in charger (Device turned off, Dont turn on the device)& leave it for charging until it reaches 100%
4. When the battery is full, switch on the phone, unplug the charger & check if the battery drops by 1 or 2% immediately.
5. If you notice battery drops immediately plug in charger once more (while the phone is on) & let it charge completely.
6. Once charging to 100% is done, don't disconnect the charger, open your root explorer, Provice RW permissions.
7.Search for 'DATA' Folder then 'SYSTEM' Folder.
8.In the 'System' folder you will find 'batterystats.bin' delete this file.
9.Exit Root Explorer and Use your phone normally unless it completly drains the battery(Dont connect your charger)
10.Power On your device and charge your device untill it reached 100%
11.Now you should enjoy the Samsung long Battery Life!!
Note: These methods are not permanent this worked for me so sharing with you.
Greenify your Apps:
NEW: Non-root working mode is now supported in 2.0+, Greenify is a convenient utility that will consequently hibernate battery hoarding applications that wait out of sight after you're done utilizing them.
Google Playstore & Thread
Titanium Backup:
Great battery life, wonderful execution and cool customization— we have seen one or more applications for these things. Presently we should see an alternate must have and a standout amongst the most evaluated applications for established Android gadgets. On the off chance that you got root benefits on your gadget, Titanium Backup is an exceptionally suggested application for you. You may discover various reinforcement applications at the Google Play Store, however none of them does the employment so splendidly and pleasantly.
Google playstore
The KERNEL can do some important things to help with battery saving as it is the controller of all things working in your phone:
1. Underclocking - if you feel your phone is fast enough, go ahead and lower the maximum frequency of your CPU, it will save power as the faster the CPU goes, the more energy it uses.
2. Undervolting - it's more complicated; every CPU requires certain amount of supplied voltage to run and the amount increases with the speed of CPU (clock frequency). For example 200Mhz requires only 0.9V while 1600Mhz requires 1.25V by default. The thing is, the higher the voltage, the higher the heat and of course power consumption. So the best way to lower it is to lower voltage - Samsung had to set voltage at the high enough level that every CPU they produce would work correctly but every CPU is different and some of them allow for lowering voltage and still remaining fully stable thus using less power to do the same work. Typically you can save about 0.05V but some CPU will allow as much as 0.1V to be saved. The same really goes for our GPU part, it can be undervolted as well. There are other parts in our phone that can be undervolted, like memory or controllers of various part but I have found (well in my phone) that saving were very small and caused instability so I would not recommend playing with them. We could think about undervolting our display as it is the biggest consumer of energy in our phone but actually we are doing it all the time The voltage supplied to the screen decides its brightness so if we were to lower the voltage it would just get dimmer
3. There are small savings to be had in various other parts controlled by the kernel:
- first and second thing are tied with SDcard - using it carries high power requirements - the less we use it, the better. Now we can't reduce to completely as all our data, apps and whole system is on it but we can reduce it's use by setting various caches.
a) read cache for internal and external SD combined with scheduler that minimizes reads and writes - so far the best scheduler created specifically for mobile SD use is FIOPS, so using that with a large buffer (maximum of 4096) is actually the best from energy standpoint.
b) system swap space - some kernels allow for creating a very specific kind of swap space, Android will use it once the free memory falls below certain point. Normally this swap space would be placed on SDcard but in this case it's inside a specific region of RAM. Why it is created like this? Because it can be easily compressed to keep more data, so basically we are using Android mechanisms and compressing memory so we can run more apps and keep them in physical RAM That means they are accessible faster than if we were to read them from SDcard and they use less power. Compressing and decompressing data as they go in and out of swap space is still far less energy consuming process then reading them from SDcard.
- third is governor configuration - governor is a system service that decides at what frequency should the CPU be working at every moment and how much cores should be enabled - this of course has great impact on energy consumption and on the smoothness of our experience with our phone. There are two schools of setting up governor and they base their decisions on two premises:
a) sharply increase CPU speed to get the work done fast and sharply decrease speed once it's not needed.
b) slowly increase speed and only so much to do what must be don then slowly decrease speed once you are done because you may have to do something again in a moment
There are pros and cons of both ways - way A means jumping to high frequency for a short time but high frequency uses comparatively large amount of energy, way B means slow increase but also means remaining in intermediate states for longer actually using energy for longer. I don't have any way to actually measure the resulting energy consumption but way A has a distinct advantage of creating much smoother experience so I use that myself.
- fourth is hotplug configuration - our CPU can dynamically enable and disable additional cores - the process is called hotplugging. Some governors are created specifically for controlling this process, the best, as far as I have tested, in this is Lulzactiveq. Hotplugging has to be wise as to the IF and WHEN to enable and disable additional cores, it measures how many "packets" of data are in queue to be processed and based on short history anticipates increase and decrease of workload.
All those interesting options are configured in scripts created for main contemporary kernels: Nadia, Devil and Agni and available HERE.
Latest OC / UV Scripts for Devil / Agni and Nadia Kernels for Note 2 are HERE
Guide to EXT4 to F2FS migration for Note 2 is HERE
CourtesyMat9V
Reserverd
very useful info , thanks :good:
rraaka said:
very useful info , thanks :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your welcome :good:
Very briefly stated.
Thanks for sharing
I read all your posts, This will help me in my next configuration for Emotion V7, Nadia with mat's script.
Now on Emotion V6 ....AGNi Pure Stock v4.2.2
yogi909 said:
Very briefly stated.
Thanks for sharing
I read all your posts, This will help me in my next configuration for Emotion V7, Nadia with mat's script.
Now on Emotion V6 ....AGNi Pure Stock v4.2.2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you liked it.
The android system, unlike other OS's actually displays the battery reading from a written data config, known as battery stats in general. While there is, in perception no disadvantage to this method of reporting the average remaining battery life, it isn't the actual battery life you are getting, but the percentage read from your daily usage and then sends the information to the OS for displaying the battery life. Due to this, you can have the percentage misreported, so it is suggested to factory reset every 6 months on stock unrooted and if rooted wipe battery stats using rom toolbox free/pro every 2 weeks to ensure correct reporting of your battery life.
Note - This won't increase battery life, but will ensure correct reporting of battery percentage, which gets messed up quite quickly on custom roms(for some unknow reason).
Undervolting can cause battery drain or better battery life depending on your configurations, if you have the CPU set to running high many of the times(like from a governor or background apps that need regular wakelocks for syncing content) it will slow down the ramping up of frequencies during deep sleep(no effect when screen on) and thus it will hold a longer wakelock for the purpose, so undervolt carefully depending on your usage - mild to mid(medium to high undervolt), mid to high(low to medium undervolt), heavy(low to no undervolt).
Different governors have different scaling methods for CPU, thus will give better or worse battery life depending on your config and usage. A governor ramping up faster and scaling down slower will give better battery life in scenario of heavy usage because the device can go to deep sleep state faster and perform background syncs in an instant; while someone with low to mid(or a bit high also) would like to have a governor that ramps up slower and scales down slowly too so as to complete the syncing of files and media scan(if running) and make the device perform smoother and go into deep-sleep and remain in the state for longer times(though going to DS mode will be a bit slower than a fast downscaling governor) and will occasionally wake up for background syncs, but those will be longer, but won't have much effect on battery life because of lower frequencies being used and syncing complete before high frequency threshold is reached.
Depending on what a user needs for his daily usage it is a good idea to keep the rest of apps(preferably facebook, musixmatch, instagram and shazam) hibernated using something like greenify(which now supports auto-hibernation without root in the beta versions). Auto sync should only be enabled for apps that need it, like E-Mail, Google+, Gmail etc.and rest should be set onto manual sync.
Samsung has a habit of throwing in a lot of features onto their device, so keeping motions enabled, which you don't even use, except for a show-off, is a bad idea because it will drain battery. Exploring the settings menu to disable unneeded things can pay-off as a positive fruit for patience.
Keeping the storage clean is also a good way. A corrupted or highly filled up storage requires more passes to be read and thus keeps the media scanner process running for longer, which puts a strain on the battery life. Also, android OS is based of the 32-bit kernel of linux(for now, 64-bit is planned to be introduced after some time), so the media scanner has to look for data linearly in the storage blocks on the internal and external SD, unlike 64-bit where the data is arranged into random blocks which are then brought together as one and the media scanner can be informed of the address of the blocks due to more threads allowed to be run for same process and also a higher memory bandwidth allocated to each process so as to make it perform faster. Due to this reason, the media scanned isn't informed of all the addresses on the time of data writing and thus has to scan linearly looking for bits of data. So keep the storage clean and minimal. Cloud is a good way if you have decent internet and won't need access to the files stored there in regular period of times.
If using a custom rom make sure that it either comes with the modem for your region or flash the modem of your region after that, so as to ensure better signal stability and thus better lasting battery life. A correct modem can give more dBm of signal at the same place as compared to a wrong one.
A good way to have stable battery life is to enable power saving mode in areas with low signal and when on low battery life only, keep it disabled otherwise or it will slow down the race-to-idle for Deep sleep mode and hence cause a bit more battery drain just before deep-sleep state.
Having location services enabled all the time isn't a good idea either, use it only when needed and keep GPS off otherwise. Samsung allows toggling of most things from notification panel so use it.
Smart stay, smart pause, smart scroll all use the front camera for detection, which requires high voltage for operation(separate from CPU, uncontrollable by software) so keep them off unless needed.
Make sure to keep your device clean. How does this affect battery life? Dust and other things when collected around pins, sockets and connectors prevent efficient passing of electricity and thus forces the device to demand more energy, around half of which is taken away by these. Even metallic dust can have adverse effect due to it making the transfer more rapid and forcing the battery to supply the power, which is most probably wasted.
Automatic brightness is good during daytime, but useless during late evening and night, because brightness level doesn't need to be changed and it keeps the light sensor activated. Disable it after 7 Pm(you can also set up tasker or some other automation tool for this).
An Odexed rom provides more battery life as compared to deodexed, but at the cost of available customization as no mods will work and will instead crash the file related to them. Choose your side wisely and patiently.
If you're going to use some app, check if it uses GCM for providing notifications(usually google search at your service), if not look for an alternative which does. GCM doesn't even use marginal amount of battery and is more efficient in providing the notifications at time and also doesn't need a persistent notification.
Check for wakelocks thoroughly and remove the misbehaving apps or hibernate them if you need them on your device. Also, be sure to update the apps for receiving any fixes and optimizations, which can sometimes also decrease the required wakelock frequency for an app and thus preserve battery life.
Don't keep too much of auto updating widgets on homescreen, these only serve to drain the battery further by auto syncing.
if rooted, use Xposed and boot-manager to disable unneeded apps at boot time and thus preserve battery and time required for full boot-up.
If on a custom kernel use DAC direct(if available) for sounds. This bypasses the output mixer and thus preserves a little bit of battery required to produce and refine the sounds, instead utilize 128x oversampling and FLL tuning for an even better quality.
Don't reboot on a regular basis unless needed, this will eat up battery life quicker.
Don't use any task killer( a long debate on uselessness of those can be found on many sites, with a simple google search), the Android system's LMK is itself more than enough.
Be sure to research carefully on what you really need and what you don't and then use it. Don't go on downloading useless things which you'll delete later on because it creates a small entry in /data/data which gets scanned by media scanner due to being present in its path and thus will make the process longer and more battery hungry.
Some custom kernels allow for controlling deep sleep type. Usually these types are already defined in the kernel tweaking app itself. A person with heavy usage should use the IDLE deep sleep more so the device is able to wake up quickly and doesn't drain much battery in case of many wakelocks. Similarly a light user will benefit with AFTR+LPA due to CPU deep sleep, but this isn't advised for medium to heavy usage(use IDLE+LPA instead) because the wakelocks require a high power to even wake up the device, which will drain more battery if you use your mobile more, because many apps will try to acquire a partial/complete wakelock.
I know this is quite long, but read through carefully and you'll surely get better battery life.
Source : Experience and Google groups
Good knowledge
Thanx
cartmanez said:
Good knowledge
Thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
People are still spreading the batterystats.bin myth? *facepalm*
This has been totally and utterly disproven many, many times, including by core Android developer
So delete away. It doesn't calibrate or improve your battery life though.
I cannot study myself all technically like you what you mentioned in "[Experience][Share]My Usage and Testing of Custom kernels for Touchwiz Kitkat".
But above is well informative and now i get why i was getting worse battery life & longer wakelock by OC and UV with selective governer.
By testing different setting in AgniPureStock 4.2.2 today i reach 25 hr + battery life with my moderate usage.
I am sure above valued information, i will get most out of my battery.
Thank you very much KNIGHT97 for sharing.
aukhan, Hi mate, do i need to install greenify too?
botski said:
aukhan, Hi mate, do i need to install greenify too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
aukhan said:
Yes
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if i use greenify i need to install xposed framework too?
botski said:
if i use greenify i need to install xposed framework too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Xposed is optional. It is only for the experimental features. However, the developer has got 1 or 2 of those working without Xposed in the latest beta(you'll need to join the greenify G+ community for getting the beta, though)
Sent from my RPG with auto targeting
非常有用的信息，谢谢 ：好：
thanks for the info man.....its very helpful
aukhan said:
The KERNEL can do some important things to help with battery saving as it is the controller of all things working in your phone:
1. Underclocking - if you feel your phone is fast enough, go ahead and lower the maximum frequency of your CPU, it will save power as the faster the CPU goes, the more energy it uses.
2. Undervolting - it's more complicated; every CPU requires certain amount of supplied voltage to run and the amount increases with the speed of CPU (clock frequency). For example 200Mhz requires only 0.9V while 1600Mhz requires 1.25V by default. The thing is, the higher the voltage, the higher the heat and of course power consumption. So the best way to lower it is to lower voltage - Samsung had to set voltage at the high enough level that every CPU they produce would work correctly but every CPU is different and some of them allow for lowering voltage and still remaining fully stable thus using less power to do the same work. Typically you can save about 0.05V but some CPU will allow as much as 0.1V to be saved. The same really goes for our GPU part, it can be undervolted as well. There are other parts in our phone that can be undervolted, like memory or controllers of various part but I have found (well in my phone) that saving were very small and caused instability so I would not recommend playing with them. We could think about undervolting our display as it is the biggest consumer of energy in our phone but actually we are doing it all the time The voltage supplied to the screen decides its brightness so if we were to lower the voltage it would just get dimmer
3. There are small savings to be had in various other parts controlled by the kernel:
- first and second thing are tied with SDcard - using it carries high power requirements - the less we use it, the better. Now we can't reduce to completely as all our data, apps and whole system is on it but we can reduce it's use by setting various caches.
a) read cache for internal and external SD combined with scheduler that minimizes reads and writes - so far the best scheduler created specifically for mobile SD use is FIOPS, so using that with a large buffer (maximum of 4096) is actually the best from energy standpoint.
b) system swap space - some kernels allow for creating a very specific kind of swap space, Android will use it once the free memory falls below certain point. Normally this swap space would be placed on SDcard but in this case it's inside a specific region of RAM. Why it is created like this? Because it can be easily compressed to keep more data, so basically we are using Android mechanisms and compressing memory so we can run more apps and keep them in physical RAM That means they are accessible faster than if we were to read them from SDcard and they use less power. Compressing and decompressing data as they go in and out of swap space is still far less energy consuming process then reading them from SDcard.
- third is governor configuration - governor is a system service that decides at what frequency should the CPU be working at every moment and how much cores should be enabled - this of course has great impact on energy consumption and on the smoothness of our experience with our phone. There are two schools of setting up governor and they base their decisions on two premises:
a) sharply increase CPU speed to get the work done fast and sharply decrease speed once it's not needed.
b) slowly increase speed and only so much to do what must be don then slowly decrease speed once you are done because you may have to do something again in a moment
There are pros and cons of both ways - way A means jumping to high frequency for a short time but high frequency uses comparatively large amount of energy, way B means slow increase but also means remaining in intermediate states for longer actually using energy for longer. I don't have any way to actually measure the resulting energy consumption but way A has a distinct advantage of creating much smoother experience so I use that myself.
- fourth is hotplug configuration - our CPU can dynamically enable and disable additional cores - the process is called hotplugging. Some governors are created specifically for controlling this process, the best, as far as I have tested, in this is Lulzactiveq. Hotplugging has to be wise as to the IF and WHEN to enable and disable additional cores, it measures how many "packets" of data are in queue to be processed and based on short history anticipates increase and decrease of workload.
All those interesting options are configured in scripts created for main contemporary kernels: Nadia, Devil and Agni and available HERE.
Latest OC / UV Scripts for Devil / Agni and Nadia Kernels for Note 2 are HERE
Guide to EXT4 to F2FS migration for Note 2 is HERE
CourtesyMat9V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man....you rock:good::good:
What about using Juice Defender (available in play store)? I used the basic one first and then ended up buying ultimate because I saw good results. Now the location (using cell tower) based WiFi enable/disable extends my battery life significantly.
The is one of the first apps I install once I feel a new flash is stable.
If you have the Samsung "Toolbox" utility, that floats a button on the screen to access your choice of five apps from anywhere - turn it off. It causes the "security storage" process to peg at 20% all the time the screen is on if "Toolbox" is enabled. When "Toolbox" is disabled, "security storage" process drops to a couple of percent when the device is idle. There's quite a saving on battery drain.
Battery calibration
I have a rooted Nook HD+ running Android 7.1 and I decided to calibrate its battery.
I ran it down to zero as recommended then attached it to the mains.
All I have had for several hours is a black screen with just the charging symbol (battery with lightning inside it). Nothing else, no progress bar, no charge %, nothing Androidy.
Is this as it should be and should I just wait for several more hours or is there something wrong?
Many thanks.
Hello, taken that I came from a mammoth battery of 6000 mA of the Ulefone Power, the 3000 mA of the ZTE Axon 7 just fails short to lasting me a day.
I felt in love with the screen of the Axon 7, just to find is the highest ranking sucker for battery, which makes me have to set it black and white and dim it…. This really sucks. ;-(
I have excellent sleeping battery savings 0 to 1% using the wakelock software, but is just when I turn on -> the screen starts draining the battery quick!.
I have installed 341 user apps and 163 system apps (I debloated heavily the phone, stock launcher, gmail, photo)…. Please notice that I have paid for the PRO versions off all the software shown here. Please respect the developers and show support by buying software that help us improve our day by day usage of the Phone.
By the way I have a A2017G with a ZTE A2017GV1.0.0B03 with rooted phone + locked boot loader
I atached a file to be opened with “My App List” which is a free Google Play app so you can download all the files I mention in the thread that belong to Google Play. The apps missing are Xposed files and you have to find them in the repository - > Xposed modules will be identified with (X). Some of the titles are in Spanish (I am a Spaniard) so I have provided a screen capture so you can identify the apps icon in Google play or use “My App List”.
I will not provide the configurations, at this point, per app (just a short description)…. Maybe we can do that in another thread to define optimum performance of the Axon 7 battery once we filter out which apps we shall use
My idea is that people share their 5 cents of which apps/tricks they use for battery savings so we could create an “optimal configuration” with the recommended settings.
[No message]
Phone Signal (2g/3g/4g) + Wifi
1. Intelli3G (X) : Switch to 2g when phone off, turn off data when Wifi connected
2. PNF Root: Changes the pulse interval of the Cellphone and the Wifi
3. Auto Pilot: If phone signal drops bellow a certain value then the phone goes into airplane mode and checks every xminutes for good signal, instead of pinning all the time
4. Gestor de red wifi: Uses gsm towers to localize the wifi hot spots for the network you connect to. If you are in an area where you do not have a network it will disconnect Wifi. Good option if you forget, like me, to turn off the Wifi when I leave home
CPU / System Tweaks
1. BootManager (X): Turn Off apps in the StartUp list
2. Auto Start Manager: Turn off apps in any event (aka if you turn the GPS on I do not want Google Maps to go on until I click it, etc)
3. CPU Turner: change governors / CPU speed in per profile configuration
4. Smart Booster Pro (X) : Control RAM and close apps as needed
5. HEBF Optimizer: Kernel Optimizer, FStrim,Zipalingn, Battery Savings, etc..
Wakelock / Sleep
1. DS Ahorro de Bateria (X): Deep sleep when screen off and control how often it wakes to ping Email/Whatsapp, etc..
2. Force Doze: Force doze right away after screen off
3. Amplify: Turn off wakelocks or control pulse
4. Greenify (X): Hibernate apps
5. No Wakelocks: Block all wakelocks per app, useful for killing wakelock of games or non notification apps, for example.
6. Power Nap: Stop wakelocks/services/alarms from waking the phone during standby
7. XDA forum thread: [Guide]0%[0,0%/h] Idle Battery Drain on Stock Rom (Xposed & Amplify Required!) from Celestial Fury . This is the BIBLE of wakelock management!!
8. Doze: Prevent apps from using cell or wifi internet connection when in sleep mode.
Screen Savers
1. Color Changer: Set the screen Black and White. It is the only app that I have found that allows setting a widget to on/off both in the launcher and in the pull down notification menu.
2. Pixoff Battery Saver: Huge battery saver – Turn off (a.k.a black) leds of a pixel so you save battery, I can achieve 50% savings with acceptable resolution. You can generate also your own pattern.
3. Screen Filter: Filter to dim the screen
4. Screen Saver: Black
5. Any App that I can set black theme
6. Substratum: Theming app, I use Dark themes (paid for them): Domination / Inversion UI/ Swift Black
7. Boot Animation: Change your Boot animation to a dark one
8. TeamBlack: Change to black multiple apps: Whatsapp, Tapatalk,Playstore,Keep, etc..
9. GravityBox: Set swipe the notification bar on, so you swipe your finger left and right to quickly change the DIM.
Battery Checkers and Wakelock Analizers
1. Wackelock Detector : Wackelocks / Greenify apps
2. GSAM Battery Monitor: Wakelocks / Plot
3. BetterBatteryStats: Wakelocks / Plot
Miscellaneous
1. Root Toolbox Lite: Clean Dalvink / Cache after TRWP .zip installation
2. Prevent Running: App will only execute if on intentionally clicked
3. Battery Calibration: After each rom installation, reach 100% charge and erase Battery_Stats
4. Battery Draining: After calibration, a quick cycle of discharge to 0%.
[No message]
WoW! @j77moduss you've done a great work here. One petition, please add links to the apps and to that Bible guide for wakelock management.
Well I did this:
1. Install a debloated ROM and my list of apps. I have about 190 apps.
2. Use Amplify to detect and limit wakelocks.
At this point the deep sleep is almost nothing so I did not focus on wireless signal optimization. It wouldn't bring any significant juice.
3. Find a good CPU and I/O governor/scheduler. I am using ATK Balanced Zhana profile for the Interactive governor, initially designed for the One Plus 3 and working excellent on our Axon 7. This balanced profile can increase the SOT to 7-10 hours without any lack of performance. There are more aggressive profiles such as X.A.N.A. for ramping up and down the cores, able to provide up to 14h of SOT. But the lag and the jittering when scrolling is very annoying when using an extreme battery saver CPU profile. However those profiles are there just in case. In a charging emergency they could be very useful. Kernel Adiutor is my favorite app for Kernel tuning, and it is compatible with our stock kernel.
I am happy with the current setup. I am benchmarking (Using BetterBatteryStats) the current battery performance with different profiles. I am planning to install Naptime or ForceDoze (Naptime seems to be better, What do you think?), however I do not use much the Doze mode except at night. While at work I need to receive emails, messages, etc, while driving I use Spotify and At home I often browse internet when I am not playing with it. And again, The battery problem is more related to the screen and CPU than any other subsystem of the device after working out the software wakelocks.
Saludos
100 % stock here, no debloated, no unlocked bootloader, nothing. Just using out of the box.
5:35 hours SOT is a fantastic battery performance.
Go thru 25 apps installs, unlock bootloader, etc etc for let's see... +1:30 Hs of SOT ? Really worth the pay and time spend in this?
I am missing something here?
Sorry but is a honest question, not trolling at all.
Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017U mediante Tapatalk
Altomugriento said:
100 % stock here, no debloated, no unlocked bootloader, nothing. Just using out of the box.
5:35 hours SOT is a fantastic battery performance.
Go thru 25 apps installs, unlock bootloader, etc etc for let's see... +1:30 Hs of SOT ? Really worth the pay and time spend in this?
I am missing something here?
Sorry but is a honest question, not trolling at all.
Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017U mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It all depends on the mix of apps you use. There are some apps that are not well polished and they have too many wakelocks, or incompatibilities with some combinations creating too much battery drain. When you install more than 150 apps and you use more than 4 or 5 social apps along the day you begin noticing a huge reduction in your battery. Not to mention Spotify, Google app, Google fit, etc. Well know for keeping your phone from going to a low power mode.
As I said before, the culprit of all this problem is basically 3:
1. Wakelocks: avoid your device to enter into low power mode, this makes your phone to waste too much battery at night or when you are not using it for some minutes.
2. CPU throttle configuration: Default governors and schedulers are usually not tuned. The manufacturers do not pay special attention to this and it is critical for having a smooth device with good battery. The ramp up and down parameters are critical here. A good profile can provide you more than 10 hours SOT without any lack of performance. Sincerely, ZTE should pay attention to this since the hardware is much more powerful than just the default 5 or 6 hours of SOT.
3. AMOLED screens are very good at saving power, and if you have your theme configured in black then the screen can contribute a lot in expanding the SOT figure. Some people use the phone more than 6 hours per day and they require to apply those mesures. probably +1:30 H of battery juice can be the difference between requiring a power bank or the battery charger.
With this phone I do never have to charge it during the night. And the car charger during commuting to work is in excess enough for keeping it alive and healthy the whole day and night and with better performance when I need it. You do not need 25 apps to do so, and probably the package @j77moduss is sharing with us is excessive and for sure overwhelming to the standard user. Maybe not 25 but 5 or 6 apps to fix the 1, 2, 3 problems and another 5 or 6 to monitor the behavior in case of excessive drain is really common and can help you on extending several hours the SOT of your terminal while reducing the idle consumption.
Altomugriento said:
100 % stock here, no debloated, no unlocked bootloader, nothing. Just using out of the box.
5:35 hours SOT is a fantastic battery performance.
Go thru 25 apps installs, unlock bootloader, etc etc for let's see... +1:30 Hs of SOT ? Really worth the pay and time spend in this?
I am missing something here?
Sorry but is a honest question, not trolling at all.
Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017U mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Based on your numbers (even though they're anecdotal we can use them as a point of reference), that's giving you a 26% increase in battery with software optimization alone. I would say that's pretty damned good and worth the effort.
However, I do agree that getting 5:35hrs of SOT is pretty awesome straight out of the box. That's one of the first things that blew me away with this phone. All this power and you're getting 5:30 SOT. I light game, mid user with videos/music, but I have all my google/exchange sync to push, and have an Android Wear device connected pretty much all the time. So I expect to hit the battery a little harder than most users.
Another thing that stood out to me was the stock build. Granted, it's not as polished as some of your heavy hitters out there, but it also has a lesser footprint than most (I'm looking at you HTC and REALLY looking at you Samsung) Rooting and debloating the stock ROM has been absolutely perfect for me. I like to know exactly what my phone is running and honestly, it's worked out quite well.
Hello again, a suggestion like Lord Kelvin said "what you do not measure you cannot improve"
I have a suggestion to verify how is really running the best configuration and it is Untutu Battery test.
Maybe we could post our configuration and the Untutu result.
Any other suggestions?
@j77moduss, these are my comments on the battery extension app pack in blue:
Phone Signal (2g/3g/4g) + Wifi
1. Intelli3G (X) : Switch to 2g when phone off, turn off data when Wifi connected
2. PNF Root: Changes the pulse interval of the Cellphone and the Wifi
3. Auto Pilot: If phone signal drops bellow a certain value then the phone goes into airplane mode and checks every xminutes for good signal, instead of pinning all the time
4. Gestor de red wifi: Uses gsm towers to localize the wifi hot spots for the network you connect to. If you are in an area where you do not have a network it will disconnect Wifi. Good option if you forget, like me, to turn off the Wifi when I leave home
I leave wifi, bluetooth and LTE signal activated the whole day and night. During nigh I have about 1% drain so the cell phone signal (very low at home) or wifi are not significant energy drainers lately. Probably the monitoring task of those apps are consuming about the same wireless energy you are saving with them.
CPU / System Tweaks
1. BootManager (X): Turn Off apps in the StartUp list Usually you install things you need. Stopping push notifications removes part of the functionality, otherwise they are not started.
2. Auto Start Manager: Turn off apps in any event (aka if you turn the GPS on I do not want Google Maps to go on until I click it, etc) What are you using this for? GPS is not by any means a huge battery drainer in this phone.
3. ]CPU Turner: change governors / CPU speed in per profile configuration This is the main cause of battery drain. An optimized profile can even duplicate the screen on time.
4. Smart Booster Pro (X) : Control RAM and close apps as needed This is actually a very bad idea. Free RAM equals to wasted RAM. reading from RAM take less energy than reading from the flash storage. While the app is cached in the RAM it is not using energy until it is required. If you flush the RAM then next time your phone will use a lot more energy and time to reopen the app. This was an issue Jellybean. Nowadays clearing RAM is something we should avoid at all cost. RAM is a cache for the apps, so use it as much as possible.
5. HEBF Optimizer: Kernel Optimizer, FStrim,Zipalingn, Battery Savings, etc.. Filesystem optimizations could be improved by just switching to F2FS filesystem. This doesn't require zipaligns and it helps on saving energy and extending the life of your flash storage.
Wakelock / Sleep
1. DS Ahorro de Bateria (X): Deep sleep when screen off and control how often it wakes to ping Email/Whatsapp, etc..
2. Force Doze: Force doze right away after screen off
3. Amplify: Turn off wakelocks or control pulse
4. Greenify (X): Hibernate apps
5. No Wakelocks: Block all wakelocks per app, useful for killing wakelock of games or non notification apps, for example.
6. Power Nap: Stop wakelocks/services/alarms from waking the phone during standby
7. XDA forum thread: [Guide]0%[0,0%/h] Idle Battery Drain on Stock Rom (Xposed & Amplify Required!) from Celestial Fury . This is the BIBLE of wakelock management!!
8. Doze: Prevent apps from using cell or wifi internet connection when in sleep mode.
Numbers 1,2 and 6 seems to be somehow doing the same thing. What is the best from your point of view? why? Numbers 4 and 5 seems to be the same, however I do not find any use for them without losing functionality. No. 8 falls into the phone signal group. In this group the true game changer is Amplify.
Screen Savers
1. Color Changer: Set the screen Black and White. It is the only app that I have found that allows setting a widget to on/off both in the launcher and in the pull down notification menu.
2. Pixoff Battery Saver: Huge battery saver – Turn off (a.k.a black) leds of a pixel so you save battery, I can achieve 50% savings with acceptable resolution. You can generate also your own pattern.
3. Screen Filter: Filter to dim the screen
4. Screen Saver: Black
5. Any App that I can set black theme
6. Substratum: Theming app, I use Dark themes (paid for them): Domination / Inversion UI/ Swift Black
7. Boot Animation: Change your Boot animation to a dark one
8. TeamBlack: Change to black multiple apps: Whatsapp, Tapatalk,Playstore,Keep, etc..
9. GravityBox: Set swipe the notification bar on, so you swipe your finger left and right to quickly change the DIM.
We have one of the best screens in the market. This AMOLED Samsung panel is excellent. The absence of backlight is a great for battery savings so the more black you have, the less relevant the screen is for the SOT. Number 2 and 3 seem to be similar and I am curious about them and have my fears regarding the extra CPU required to process the screen. Which one is better? The big thing here is number 5. Number 8 is also interesting. The rest are not providing a significant advantage.
Battery Checkers and Wakelock Analizers
1. Wackelock Detector : Wackelocks / Greenify apps
2. GSAM Battery Monitor: Wakelocks / Plot
3. BetterBatteryStats: Wakelocks / Plot
I really recommend everyone to use Accubattery for at least one week to learn how to properly charge the battery. The rest of the statistics are provided by the las couple of apps you listed. Nonetheless all the battery apps are needed when you are actively tuning your phone, after a while they become useless garbage until you face another huge change such as a new ROM.
Miscellaneous
1. Root Toolbox Lite: Clean Dalvink / Cache after TRWP .zip installation This is useless in current OS. Now since the huge transition to the new ART (Android Run Time), the OS detects new installed apps so cleaning dalvik / Cache is just adding more useless drain to the battery since the AOT compiler has to process all the apps instead of only the new one. In the old times this was beneficial, not it is something you must do only if it is absolutely required.
2. Prevent Running: App will only execute if on intentionally clicked I am curius about this. what is the purpose of it regarding battery saving?
3. Battery Calibration: After each rom installation, reach 100% charge and erase Battery_Stats Why? Battery stats are aso wiped when you do a clean flash. If the OS is good enough it should take cate of recalibrating the battery. It only takes a few seconds.
4. Battery Draining: After calibration, a quick cycle of discharge to 0%.[/QUOTE] NEVER!!!!!!! There are 2 states really dangerous for the battery. One is full charge. If you reach full charge, it means that you have stressed the battery a lot in order to reach that state. New hardware battery managers just avoid reaching 100% charge just to extend the battery life. It is a common technique for PC laptops. Accubattery is one of the few battery managers that is actually focused in extending the life of your battery. You won't want to have 20% less battery after 1 year of charging it to 100% each night. Well, the second and most dangerous state for a Li-ion battery is to reach full depletion. A state of deep discharge can make it impossible to recharge again since some batteries require an extra kick not provided by the charger. Do never leave any device on until depleted, if you leave it fully discharged for a while, chances are that you will need to replace the battery. The bottom line of this is: avoid 100% charge, 85% is fair, as much as %90 and do NEVER reach full depletion. If you r phone reaches 6% just turn it off completely.
There are other ways to improve the battery such as switching to F2FS filesystem with optimized mount options. F2FS is specifically designed for flash storage. It reduces the write cycles and optimizes the use of the cache so it is far more energy efficient than the linux etx4. On the other side, it extends the life of your flash storage, including the emmc and the micro SD card die. Less writes means less wear.
Also avoid unnecessary apps, they will drain battery when rebuilding the ART AOL cache and requires extra processing for the launcher as well as for the OS in general.
I am quite happy you opened this thread with this discussion. There are other users around here such as @JeromeLeung also looking for the best performance vs. battery balance for the Axon 7.
I attach some screenshots of my battery evolution and stats for today.
Basically it drained about 1% during 5 hours at night. At work the signal is even worse and depend on the place in the building. However I spend a lot of time on wifi. At work and during the morning the screen was on for 8 hours while the battery level only drop 50%.
Extrapolating these values to a full battery level, the SOT is about 16 h
During the day I attended 3 phone calls and multiple Skype and WhatsApp calls. I used Spotify during the round trip commuting using Bluetooth. I browsed internet, I used XDA labs app, mail (tons of them), text messages, Skype, hangouts and WhatsApp messages. 4 pictures and I also had to install one app.
I only applied 4 tweaks to get this:
1. Optimized F2FS filesystem
2. Amplify
3. balanced AKT Xhana CPU profile (amazing performance)
4. Dark themes in several apps
All that using ZADmix7 ROM with stock kernel as the base system. I also enjoy premium sound with Viper4Arise that takes some CPU for the audio enhancement while playing music during commuting.
So yes, only 4 tweaks can almost triplicate the screen on time, increase performance and solve the deep sleep problem.
Oki said:
I attach some screenshots of my battery evolution and stats for today.
..... snip .....
I only applied 4 tweaks to get this:
1. Optimized F2FS filesystem
2. Amplify
3. balanced AKT Xhana CPU profile (amazing performance)
4. Dark themes in several apps
.... snip ....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the in-depth analysis. Can you explain "Amplify", which of the 5 "Xhana Balanced" profiles you used & looks like you are fine-tuning an update to the application of F2FS? How will that change F2FS implementation for those of us that haven't made the change yet?
amphi66 said:
Thanks for the in-depth analysis. Can you explain "Amplify", which of the 5 "Xhana Balanced" profiles you used & looks like you are fine-tuning an update to the application of F2FS? How will that change F2FS implementation for those of us that haven't made the change yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think they released a new all in one script called AKT that only has 2 Xana and 1 Zhana profile. Simpler! :laugh:
JeromeLeung said:
I think they released a new all in one script called AKT that only has 2 Xana and 1 Zhana profile. Simpler! :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll check again. I had downloaded the AKT just yesterday.
amphi66 said:
Thanks for the in-depth analysis. Can you explain "Amplify", which of the 5 "Xhana Balanced" profiles you used & looks like you are fine-tuning an update to the application of F2FS? How will that change F2FS implementation for those of us that haven't made the change yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The one I was using yesterday was the Xhana profile. It is under the balanced submenu of the AKT command. It won't work on stock kernel unless you enable init.d support before flashing the AKT profiles ZIP. Regarding the F2FS optimization, please read the updated OP of that thread, In my latest posts in that thread I explain the procedure to integrate the mount options in init.d. The rebuild of the filesystem structure with optimized values is about to be simpler, since we are tuning the new TWRP 3.0.3-f2fs with backported F2FS drivers from Android 4.10. Do not use it yet since it can destroy your data partition if you use it as any other TWRP!!!! 3.0.3-1 is the safest so far. But you are safe if you already have a backup of your /data and /sdcard folders.
Oki said:
The one I was using yesterday was the Xhana profile. It is under the balanced submenu of the AKT command. It won't work on stock kernel unless you enable init.d support before flashing the AKT profiles ZIP. Regarding the F2FS optimization, please read the updated OP of that thread, In my latest posts in that thread I explain the procedure to integrate the mount options in init.d. The rebuild of the filesystem structure with optimized values is about to be simpler, since we are tuning the new TWRP 3.0.3-f2fs with backported F2FS drivers from Android 4.10. Do not use it yet since it can destroy your data partition if you use it as any other TWRP!!!! 3.0.3-1 is the safest so far. But you are safe if you already have a backup of your /data and /sdcard folders.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got it. I have HawkPepper, just above "Project'. The F2FS optimizations look interesting, but a bit confusing at this point. I used F2FS on my N5, but it was simply a question of having a kernel that supported, saving sdcard contents, changing structure from TWRP and copying tbe data back again.
amphi66 said:
Got it. I have HawkPepper, just above "Project'. The F2FS optimizations look interesting, but a bit confusing at this point. I uses F2FS on my N5, but it was simply a question of having a kernel that supported, saving sdcard contents, changing structure from TWRP and copying tbe data back again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Axon 7 stock kernel supports F2FS, so you just have to do basically what you did with the N5. However there are some mount options that can optimize the structure created during the data restore, and that depends on the F2FS implementation. There are also some problems with the encryption, this is why I wrote the guide for the Axon 7.
Oki said:
The one I was using yesterday was the Xhana profile. It is under the balanced submenu of the AKT command. It won't work on stock kernel unless you enable init.d support before flashing the AKT profiles ZIP. Regarding the F2FS optimization, please read the updated OP of that thread, In my latest posts in that thread I explain the procedure to integrate the mount options in init.d. The rebuild of the filesystem structure with optimized values is about to be simpler, since we are tuning the new TWRP 3.0.3-f2fs with backported F2FS drivers from Android 4.10. Do not use it yet since it can destroy your data partition if you use it as any other TWRP!!!! 3.0.3-1 is the safest so far. But you are safe if you already have a backup of your /data and /sdcard folders.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mind sharing the Amplify wakelocks/alarms/services settings you have on your phone? Just bought the app, but have no idea what is safe to tweak without breaking the phone </3
Pollito788 said:
Do you mind sharing the Amplify wakelocks/alarms/services settings you have on your phone? Just bought the app, but have no idea what is safe to tweak without breaking the phone </3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't limited the system too much. I do not want to get rid of receiving messages or limiting location services, so I allowed the wakelocks to be active every 180 sec. I limited: GCoreFlp, Location ManagerService, NlpWakeLock, AudioIn, bluedroid_timer, NlpCollectorWakeLock.
Same for alarms: com.droid27.twc.ACTION_TIMER_TICK, ch.bitspin.timely.widget.UPDATE_ACTION and com.android.chrome/com.google.ipc.invalidation.external.client.contrib.AndroidListener$AlarmReceiver.
I have not limited any service. I do not want to save battery while losing features.
I was losing about 1% through the night so I do not need to go very aggressive on Amplify configuration. I just force close Spotify after using it since I see it drains the battery when not in use. Amplify is not per-se a battery saver, it helps you on controlling rogue apps.
As you could see, the magic for saving battery is not Amplify, but the good tunables for the Interactive CPU governor and IO scheduler provided by AKT. These days I have been testing different Governors and I have found that BurnoutPR3 is best for benchmarks but for a daily driver Balanced Shana profile is awesome. With it I get from 10 to 16 hrs. of SOT depending on the high load time I put on the CPU (pictures, video recording time, youtube...).
I never charge the phone by night with the Axon 7 since I do not need it, all thanks to QC 3.0, I barely charge it in my car while commuting to work and by night, if I am under 40%, I load it about 25 mins to 70% and next morning while my 15 mins commuting time it reaches about 85-90% (never full charge it if you want your battery to last more than a few months). Short sessions of quick charge are healthier than long sessions to 100%. On the other hand do never leave your battery run out of charge or close to 0%. AccuBattery app can teach you how to get healthier charging habits.
Saludos
Oki said:
I haven't limited the system too much. I do not want to get rid of receiving messages or limiting location services, so I allowed the wakelocks to be active every 180 sec. I limited: GCoreFlp, Location ManagerService, NlpWakeLock, AudioIn, bluedroid_timer, NlpCollectorWakeLock.
Same for alarms: com.droid27.twc.ACTION_TIMER_TICK, ch.bitspin.timely.widget.UPDATE_ACTION and com.android.chrome/com.google.ipc.invalidation.external.client.contrib.AndroidListener$AlarmReceiver.
I have not limited any service. I do not want so safe battery while losing features.
I was lust losing about 1% through the night so I do not need to go very aggressive on Amplify configuration. I just force close Spotify after using it since I see it drains the battery when not in use. Amplify is not per-se a battery saver, it helps you on controlling rogue apps.
As you could see, the magic for saving battery is not Amplify, but the good tunables for the Interactive CPU governor and IO scheduler provided by AKT. These days I have been testing different Governors and I have found that BurnoutPR3 is best for benchmarks but for a daily driver Balanced Shana profile is awesome. With it I get from 10 to 16 hrs. of SOT depending on the high load time I put on the CPU (pictures, video recording time, youtube...).
I never charge the phone by night with the Axon 7 since I do not need it thankls to QC 3.0, I barely charge it in my car while commuting to work and, if by night I am under 40% I load it about 25 mins to 70% and next morning while my 15 mins commuting time it reaches about 85-90% (never full charge it if you want your battery to last more than a few months). Short sessions of quick charge are healthier than long sessions to 100%. On the other hand do never leave your battery run out of charge or close to it. AccuBattery can teach you how to get healthier charging habits.
Saludos
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appreciate the detailed explanation. Thanks a bunch !