Database Users

Question about HD2 screen and digitizer change

Hello,
i cracked my HD2 screen (digitizer), i purchased new one, but the cracked one was working and i was not in a hurry to change it. After a minor drop, the LCD touch screen cracked under the cracked digitizer and now i have black screen...
Now also i have to purchase LCD screen, but i saw that there is ready to use screen+digitizer(and of course more expensive than screen and digitizer alone) .
My question is - what will be easier to change - ready to use digitizer + screen, screen and digitizer alone or there is no difference. I'm asking this, because I'm wondering should i sell the digitizer (if i can) and buy the ready to use screen+digitizer, or to purchase the screen and to use it with the already received digitizer.

If you can afford it you have to go with the all in one. Too much can go wrong during assembly and you should avoid it if you can.

yup, separating and installing them separately is a pain in the arse, its always better to do it in the one job if you can afford the initial high cost. My LCD panel needs replaced due to light bleeding, but I cant be arsed, the digitiser is likely to fail in the future anyway being an HD2 so ill wait and just do the two of them together.

OK, thank you.
I've watched 2 or 3 "how to change digitizer" videos. Is there a video for changing the lcd+digitizer or its the same as the digitizer change? I have to disassemble the whole phone to change the digitizer...

LexHammer said:
OK, thank you.
I've watched 2 or 3 "how to change digitizer" videos. Is there a video for changing the lcd+digitizer or its the same as the digitizer change? I have to disassemble the whole phone to change the digitizer...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there is a vid somewhere, ill have a look later, but essentially yes. you need to remove the whole lot, the only difference between doing them both and doing them separately is that the two panels are stuck to each other, and its that process of separating or putting back together that's really tricky and people have ended up damaging one or the other trying it.

What about the difference in the EU and T-Mobile versions, like in the digitizer (soldering and insertion) Is there a difference too, if i take the whole "pack" (LCD + Digitizer) and what should i look for if there is a difference?

LexHammer said:
What about the difference in the EU and T-Mobile versions, like in the digitizer (soldering and insertion) Is there a difference too, if i take the whole "pack" (LCD + Digitizer) and what should i look for if there is a difference?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you buy combo(LCD+digitizer) there's no problem to replace it to whatever version of HD2 you own: combo is interchangeable on both versions!

OK, Thank you!
I'm asking because i asked some buyers on ebay, and they told me "Sorry, my friend, but this is for T-mobile version" But on the pictures, they are all the same.

I had my EU hd2 digitizer changed too when it was broken, and when it was changed to a tmous replacement, they couldn't get the promixity sensor working.
Now I dunno if that's a defect from the screen or because it's a incompatility problem, but a further gsensor-working-in-wm6-but-not-in-android-problem in my other replacement mashup hd2 hybrid EUTMOUS frankenstein phone suggests that some parts may not be interchangeable.
You should just make sure that it's a EU digitizer so you won't run into further problems.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA

But on a already assembled combo pack (LCD + digitizer) how to know if the digitizer is EU version, beside the T-mobile logo.

hengsheng120 said:
I had my EU hd2 digitizer changed too when it was broken, and when it was changed to a tmous replacement, they couldn't get the promixity sensor working.
Now I dunno if that's a defect from the screen or because it's a incompatility problem, but a further gsensor-working-in-wm6-but-not-in-android-problem in my other replacement mashup hd2 hybrid EUTMOUS frankenstein phone suggests that some parts may not be interchangeable.
You should just make sure that it's a EU digitizer so you won't run into further problems.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt it's a relationship between digitizer and g-sensor/proximity sensor...
---------- Post added at 02:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:36 PM ----------
LexHammer said:
But on a already assembled combo pack (LCD + digitizer) how to know if the digitizer is EU version, beside the T-mobile logo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's no way to figure out this...

bib*oops said:
I doubt it's a relationship between digitizer and g-sensor/proximity sensor...
---------- Post added at 02:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:36 PM ----------
There's no way to figure out this...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me clarify that; my hd2 EU first had its digitizer+LCD replaced with a TMOUS version, and the proximity sensor stopped working,
then the the mobo was replaced by a tmous mobo in the same EU housing and the accelerometer and magnetometer does not work properly (accelerometer works in wm6.5 but not android), but the proximity sensor worked.
It's not just me having a hardware replacement problem, there's a significant amount of posts by other users about replacement parts not working properly. So everyone should be at least very cautious about using them because replacing with other parts may cause other problems.

my buddys HD2's touch screen suddenly stopped working.
he gave me the phone for $50.
i guess ima have to do lil work

I need some help with choosing the combo
Which one should i take and why on one the second item there are those big cable-like things.
N1 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-and-DIG...ccessories&hash=item43adebdc7d#ht_3076wt_1110
N2 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-lcd-Tou...ltDomain_0&hash=item3a67e44659#ht_2175wt_1344
Will i need to solder them together or they are already soldered (welded junction or whatever)
Thank you!

Anybody?

LexHammer said:
I need some help with choosing the combo
Which one should i take and why on one the second item there are those big cable-like things.
N1 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-and-DIG...ccessories&hash=item43adebdc7d#ht_3076wt_1110
N2 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-lcd-Tou...ltDomain_0&hash=item3a67e44659#ht_2175wt_1344
Will i need to solder them together or they are already soldered (welded junction or whatever)
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both versions are OK, but I would choose the first one.
There's no need for soldering(vers. 2): it's more like a packaging thing in order to get it mounted on chassis.

hengsheng120 said:
I had my EU hd2 digitizer changed too when it was broken, and when it was changed to a tmous replacement, they couldn't get the promixity sensor working.
Now I dunno if that's a defect from the screen or because it's a incompatility problem, but a further gsensor-working-in-wm6-but-not-in-android-problem in my other replacement mashup hd2 hybrid EUTMOUS frankenstein phone suggests that some parts may not be interchangeable.
You should just make sure that it's a EU digitizer so you won't run into further problems.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess its because you/they lost the little glasses that connect the display and the sensor.
Its easy to loose them as they fall out after you take the screen from the housing.
I lost them a few seconds ago and think that i know what wont work when i reassemble
@topic
there is generally no problem removing display from touchscrren. just make it hot with a fan or oven ~80°C is okay. and with a flat knive or iron-wire go for the glue.
If you do this you need new glue-tape. Mostly you get this from china very cheap but takes a while.
If your screen is broken now i would recommend to take a combi pack as you have no glueing, no alignment problems and so on.
its not very hard but kills some time and nerves ;D

OK, so lets do a round up, before i make the purcahse, so I'm sure i will make the right choice.
I'm going to buy this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-and-DIG...ccessories&hash=item43adebdc7d#ht_3076wt_1110
because its already assembled and much easier to use and IT WILL FIX on my EU version of the phone (Not US T-Mobile)
Only YES or NO will be enough

LexHammer said:
OK, so lets do a round up, before i make the purcahse, so I'm sure i will make the right choice.
I'm going to buy this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-and-DIG...ccessories&hash=item43adebdc7d#ht_3076wt_1110
because its already assembled and much easier to use and IT WILL FIX on my EU version of the phone (Not US T-Mobile)
Only YES or NO will be enough
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES

bib*oops said:
YES
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Eu-HD2 is soldered isnt it? This version, from the picture, is the pluged version....
Im not sure because if you change the display also the connector type could be irrelevant.
But if this is the screen from Tmous-HD2, i remember that it was a bit bigger? Is it just the housing or also the display?
=>
Dont buy before this is clear!
(i would open my hd2, look what connector type is inside and buy that one just to be sure...)
And some advise: Try to glue the flex cable from the touchscreen(the one that goes under the end call button reallly close to the display)
This could help to improve the life-span of the cable as its not flexed every time you push the button(try when you hold it in your hands by putting the buttons in the frame and push it, if it flexes the cable fix that!!!)
Otherwise the cable will break one day and the wires will disconnect=> typical problem of not responding touchscreen

[Q] Screen flicker - suspected hardware problem

Greetings,
I tried to search for this problem on this forum but I couldn't find anything specific to this device.
The tablet works fine in all aspects, except the screen flickers when the aluminum back is stressed, i.e. when its being held. The tablet screen will flicker in brightness as the back is pressed.
Usually the most reliable way to reproduce the problem is to flex the tablet, as if you were trying to split a piece of plastic into two by gradually flexing it until it breaks.
Therefore, I have concluded it is a hardware problem, but I don't know exactly what.
I apologize if I'm difficult to understand, and if you need any clarification, let me know.
Thank you everyone for your time.
-Kevin

ktong747 said:
Greetings,
I tried to search for this problem on this forum but I couldn't find anything specific to this device.
The tablet works fine in all aspects, except the screen flickers when the aluminum back is stressed, i.e. when its being held. The tablet screen will flicker in brightness as the back is pressed.
Usually the most reliable way to reproduce the problem is to flex the tablet, as if you were trying to split a piece of plastic into two by gradually flexing it until it breaks.
Therefore, I have concluded it is a hardware problem, but I don't know exactly what.
I apologize if I'm difficult to understand, and if you need any clarification, let me know.
Thank you everyone for your time.
-Kevin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Kevin,
Yeah, seems like a hardware issue. But I advise not to "flex" the back too much
Probably could be 2 things.
1. Loose connector for the digitizer
2. Bad digitizer
3. Something grounding out against the case.
So my guess would be to spit the case apart. You can find videos on Google Search showing the procedure at You Tube. Then a good inspection of components, paying attention to connectors and the boards (for cracking).
I saw the other day that there are plenty of parts available for the 500, like digitizers, display glass and several other items. Check E-bay.
MD

Moscow Desire said:
Hey Kevin,
Yeah, seems like a hardware issue. But I advise not to "flex" the back too much
Probably could be 2 things.
1. Loose connector for the digitizer
2. Bad digitizer
3. Something grounding out against the case.
So my guess would be to spit the case apart. You can find videos on Google Search showing the procedure at You Tube. Then a good inspection of components, paying attention to connectors and the boards (for cracking).
I saw the other day that there are plenty of parts available for the 500, like digitizers, display glass and several other items. Check E-bay.
MD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your advice Moscow Desire. I've taken the back off before but noticed nothing unusual. Should I just take every component that can be separated out and inspect it? Sounds like a recipe for disaster for an inexperienced person like me.

ktong747 said:
Thanks for your advice Moscow Desire. I've taken the back off before but noticed nothing unusual. Should I just take every component that can be separated out and inspect it? Sounds like a recipe for disaster for an inexperienced person like me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Moscow Desire,
I have taken my tablet apart with the instruction from the videos but I didn't see anything that is loosen so far. Do you think I will need to unscrew everything until I take out the screen to know what's wrong? My screen keeps flickering with white lines at the edge of the screen and it's really annoying. :crying:
Thanks!

[Q] u8800-51 touch screen bottom not responding

u8800-51 touch screen bottom not responding
hi all
i am new and ignorant
(love the xda rules vid)
just bought second hand at&t impulse 4g (u8800-51) , with the bottom half of the screen, not responding to touch.
the top half works
i was told that it happened when the device got dropped.
the picture is good.
got stuck in at&t logo boot loop, and erased back to original on the android rescue screen. and its booting again
tried to reassemble the screen , but no change.
will replacing the glass plus digitizer solve it?
is there a difference between u8800 and u8800-51 screen parts? (or any other hardware for that matter?)
thanks alot

Switching the touch screen (glass) will fix your problem.
In which side do you have the notification led on? Right or left of speaker?
If it is on the right, you probably have the smaller speaker system (that's good to know if you are buying with the frame).
There is no difference in the sockets, however I have seen all Impulse 4G have the Synaptics version (black flex cable), so it would be better if you'd buy that. Some of the eBay sellers are offering the official AT&T touch screen, with the logo on it, so that would be a safe place to buy from.
-EDIT-
Some more things to know:
When they are selling with a frame, you can see it on the picture and they usually mention that somewhere too. If you took the phone open, it's easy to tell if it's big or small by looking whether it looks like this (big speaker).

Blefish said:
Switching the touch screen (glass) will fix your problem.
In which side do you have the notification led on? Right or left of speaker?
If it is on the right, you probably have the smaller speaker system (that's good to know if you are buying with the frame).
There is no difference in the sockets, however I have seen all Impulse 4G have the Synaptics version (black flex cable), so it would be better if you'd buy that. Some of the eBay sellers are offering the official AT&T touch screen, with the logo on it, so that would be a safe place to buy from.
-EDIT-
Some more things to know:
When they are selling with a frame, you can see it on the picture and they usually mention that somewhere too. If you took the phone open, it's easy to tell if it's big or small by looking whether it looks like
thank u so much
after a long study of the different pics of sellers, i remain a confused, because i finally found enough pics
(attached)
to realize that my model always have the black cable u mentioned which comes with a SMALL speaker, while the big speaker always come with the yellow cable, but alas, my device comes with a black cable, but big speaker,
so should i go with cable color + name mentioned (AT&T Impulse 4G) + AT&T logo, (which all calls for a Small speaker) OR , should i go with speaker size (big) ?
regarding my indicator position, it is to thr right when i look from the inner angle (like the photo of the big speaker that u added
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

That's the digitizer only. I don't think it's glass really, but it's easier to say it is.
I replaced mine by taking off the old digitizer from the frame. It came off pretty easily, it just needs some patience to take it apart without breaking it.
If you don't want to mess with glue, I'd suggest this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digitizer...356?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abfc0011c
It's without the AT&T logo. I cannot guarantee it will fit though, there is always this chance Huawei modified something else between the U8800 and -51.

Blefish said:
That's the digitizer only. I don't think it's glass really, but it's easier to say it is.
I replaced mine by taking off the old digitizer from the frame. It came off pretty easily, it just needs some patience to take it apart without breaking it.
If you don't want to mess with glue, I'd suggest this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digitizer...356?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abfc0011c
It's without the AT&T logo. I cannot guarantee it will fit though, there is always this chance Huawei modified something else between the U8800 and -51.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Takes over 15 days. I guess you can use adhesive tape to stick it.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=19075902577
Sent from my U8800-51

Dissenters tWellf
Somcom3X said:
Takes over 15 days. I guess you can use adhesive tape to stick it.
( linked reposting banned for me by the forum)
Sent from my U8800-51
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks allot again
the Ebay links leads to:
"This listing (19075902577) has been removed, or this item is not available.
Please check that you've entered the correct item number
Listings that have ended 90 or more days ago will not be available for viewing."
???

Blefish said:
That's the digitizer only. I don't think it's glass really, but it's easier to say it is.
I replaced mine by taking off the old digitizer from the frame. It came off pretty easily, it just needs some patience to take it apart without breaking it.
If you don't want to mess with glue, I'd suggest this:
It's without the AT&T logo. I cannot guarantee it will fit though, there is always this chance Huawei modified something else between the U8800 and -51.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks Blefish
i prefer not to risk peeling, for breakage, and gluing, for moisture and mess.
i am starting to think that my digitizer was not original, and that is why it failed.
and feels like plastic. i found an original part at cellulardr.com for about 70$ vs. the 10-$15 ebay ones.
so maybe the seller put on impulse 4g, a big earpiece frame, with a yellow cable digitaizer. what a mess!
i attach a pic of big vs small earpieces. i believe the ''big'' is the one with golden terminals.
i think i will get a cheap ebay small earpiece frame with a black cable digitizer (like the original had, i believe) , with a 5$ small earpiece as extra.
god. why do i feel like Sherlock Holmes ?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=190759025771
This is only with glass.
You can buy a used one for under $70 or an OEM frame with glass. In my op, its not worth to fix.
(Oem->Original equipment manufacturer)
Sent from my U8800-51

Somcom3X said:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=190759025771
This is only with glass.
You can buy a used one for under $70 or an OEM frame with glass. In my op, its not worth to fix.
(Oem->Original equipment manufacturer)
Sent from my U8800-51
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
i am sorry - what is not worth fixing ?
yes, i am going to buy a small earpiese frame with black cable plus a small earpiece,
but seeing my old digitizer, i am starting to think (because of the price difference from the original) that all these E-bay so called "glass" , 10-15$ , advertized digitizers ,are actually made of plastic ??
but i will not "invest in an expensive glass before i am happy with the new device.
so far i have not seen used original digitizers.
if i am happy with the device, i might start looking for a"for parts" u8800-51 deal on E-bay
thanks again

hove64 said:
thanks
i am sorry - what is not worth fixing ?
yes, i am going to buy a small earpiese frame with black cable plus a small earpiece,
but seeing my old digitizer, i am starting to think (because of the price difference from the original) that all these E-bay so called "glass" , 10-15$ , advertized digitizers ,are actually made of plastic ??
but i will not "invest in an expensive glass before i am happy with the new device.
so far i have not seen used original digitizers.
if i am happy with the device, i might start looking for a"for parts" u8800-51 deal on E-bay
thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone is not worth fixing.
Sent from my U8800-51

Somcom3X said:
The phone is not worth fixing.
Sent from my U8800-51
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am sorry....why not worth fixing ?
20$ plus a little more work and i have got a working smart phone - no ?

hove64 said:
i am sorry....why not worth fixing ?
20$ plus a little more work and i have got a working smart phone - no ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, but $70 and you have a brand new one. Basically, fixing it is more trouble than selling it.
Sent from my U8800-51

Somcom3X said:
Yes, but $70 and you have a brand new one. Basically, fixing it is more trouble than selling it.
Sent from my U8800-51
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
the cheapest new impulse 4g i could find cost 150$. i do get your point, but i already invested time and money on it and i can't sell a device that i am not sure of his condition. also its a little bit exciting for me if i manage to make it work.

is there any way to bypass the faulty touch screen ,for sake of testing the phone,
with some external device such as usb\Bluetooth mouse and keyboard ?

hove64 said:
is there any way to bypass the faulty touch screen ,for sake of testing the phone,
with some external device such as usb\Bluetooth mouse and keyboard ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Recovery or adb commands
Sent from my U8800-51

Somcom3X said:
Recovery or adb commands
Sent from my U8800-51
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
i will check if adb can help

Need help with, I think, screen calibration

First of all sorry if my English isn't quite perfect, I'm from Argentina.
So, today I received back my MXP from the service. Broken screen so...
It work perfect now (sort of) but I noticed a weird behavior. The touch screen doesn't work like it used to do before the "accident". I mean, looks pretty bad calibrated. Random swipes on the keyboard while I write, keys that doesn't work unless I really press them (?) and so.
The question is...There's a way to do a manual calibration?

Dovahkiin1290 said:
First of all sorry if my English isn't quite perfect, I'm from Argentina.
So, today I received back my MXP from the service. Broken screen so...
It work perfect now (sort of) but I noticed a weird behavior. The touch screen doesn't work like it used to do before the "accident". I mean, looks pretty bad calibrated. Random swipes on the keyboard while I write, keys that doesn't work unless I really press them (?) and so.
The question is...There's a way to do a manual calibration?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This isn't a "calibration" issue, this is physical damage to the LCD panel and/or digitizer, you should replace both (and probably the battery since you have to take it apart)... Honestly, the value of this repair is questionable, you need a new screen/digitizer assembly and back cover assembly at a minimum, in the USA this would put at probably to 60-70% of the value of the device, and if you add a new battery the cost jumps to around 75% or so, making the repair clearly too costly in most cases.
And to directly answer your question, no, there is no "calibration" method like older resistive panels, capacitive panels do not use/need calibration.... this Reddit thread explains the difference a lot better than I can.

acejavelin said:
This isn't a "calibration" issue, this is physical damage to the LCD panel and/or digitizer, you should replace both (and probably the battery since you have to take it apart)... Honestly, the value of this repair is questionable, you need a new screen/digitizer assembly and back cover assembly at a minimum, in the USA this would put at probably to 60-70% of the value of the device, and if you add a new battery the cost jumps to around 75% or so, making the repair clearly too costly in most cases.
And to directly answer your question, no, there is no "calibration" method like older resistive panels, capacitive panels do not use/need calibration.... this Reddit thread explains the difference a lot better than I can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is so true. And when I got my display replaced the screen wouldn't work even with the slightest bit of moisture on my fingers. So crappy

Screen cracked for no reason

I'm seating at my desk with my phone on my side over the mousepad and after hearing a very faint "pop" sound I notice there is a very clean single crack running from the top to the bottom of the screen. The phone was bought a month ago, never dropped, and it was not even being touched when it cracked. What could be the reason? Some type or thermal stress or just a manufacturing defect?
At the moment I'm living in a country without official Xiaomi support (Japan), is there anything I can do about it?
I'm quite surprised by what happened and I have never heard of a screen on a new phone cracking for no apparent reason.
Pictures:
imgur .com/a/Q5Lon

I once put a Sony MP3 player at the window, in winter. At the morning it was cracked. I gotowe beating from my dad for breaking the christmas gify a dat after receiving it. Still wish these days came back though.

It's probably a manufacturing defect. Where did you buy the phone? You could try explaining the situation, but I think it would be a huge hassle, just take your loss and spend $30 on a new display.
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20171205083915&SearchText=mi+5x+lcd

tinyXperia said:
It's probably a manufacturing defect. Where did you buy the phone? You could try explaining the situation, but I think it would be a huge hassle, just take your loss and spend $30 on a new display.
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20171205083915&SearchText=mi+5x+lcd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacement screens usually look rubbish and have ghost touches in the digitalizer

Thank you for the suggestions.
xabierd said:
Replacement screens usually look rubbish and have ghost touches in the digitalizer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I need only the digitizer, the LCD itself looks fine. Would it still not work well? I have never replaced a digitizer (or a screen) by myself, but on such a cheap phone I may as well try. Or is it an almost impossible task and I should just replace the whole screen assembly?
Also,isn't there a software setting for calibrating the digitizer? Using it can't I get the original performance?

I bought a €20 full hd screen for my Ascend P7 and it looked the same as the original. $30 is a normal price for a phone LCD, only OLED displays are much more expensive (another reason to avoid OLED screens on phones)
---------- Post added at 09:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 AM ----------
xabierd said:
Replacement screens usually look rubbish and have ghost touches in the digitalizer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nexflatline said:
Thank you for the suggestions.
I need only the digitizer, the LCD itself looks fine. Would it still not work well? I have never replaced a digitizer (or a screen) by myself, but on such a cheap phone I may as well try. Or is it an almost impossible task and I should just replace the whole screen assembly?
Also,isn't there a software setting for calibrating the digitizer? Using it can't I get the original performance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not recommended, you save maybe 20$, but you still risk breaking your screen and having to wait another 3 weeks on a new one.
watch this to see how it works and decide for yourself: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9drzO9hO_U