I'm running:
GEN2
Rooted
ClockworkMod
Swedish Spring Android 2.2 with Gingerbread theme and circle battery
Suddenly after a few weeks of everything working fine, AC charging stopped working. USB charging still works perfectly, and when I plug the phone in it says it is AC charging, but the charge level barely changes - it can be plugged in for 12 hours and not gain or lose any charge. Also, sometimes but not always, the phone becomes very very slow, and sometimes the screen won't unlock - I have to unplug it, unlock, then plug it in again.
I've tried different chargers and cables and combinations thereof, I've tried turning USB charging off or on in Extra Settings, I've tried debug mode on USB or not, hardware acceleration on or off, I've tried charging with the phone off or on, screen on or off, I've tried charging it for 48 hours, the charge level never moves.
This is the closest thread I can find on the issue but it is a mix of problems, and they never find a reliable diagnosis or solution:
http://android.modaco.com/topic/336...rs-stopped-working-but-usb-charging-works-ok/
I don't care if it charges slowly, I'm thinking of trying to mod a USB cable to force it into USB charging mode. Anyone know how?
I far prefer this to re-installing because whenever I connect my phone to my laptop it immediately bluescreens, (despite a fresh Win7 reinstall), and I am lost on my gf's Mac.
These posts describe how to do the opposite (force AC mode) on HTCs:
http://winhlp.com/node/855
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=844284&page=3
Thanks enormously for any tips
Chris
Since I lost my charger and had to use a generic micro-USB charger, I have the same problem. USB charge works fine.
May be a problem with the USB cable, have you tried using another one?
(I'm on Ginger Stir Fry, but I don't think it is ROM dependent. )
Thanks for the thoughts. I've tried different cables and chargers and combinations thereof to no avail, hence suspecting something software and looking to mod a cable to force USB mode.
Please anyone know what PINs indicate laptop USB rather than AC USB?
How does my phone know to go into the (disfunctional) AC mode?
Thanks
I think D+ and D- pins (2 and 3) are connected. You would have to mod the charger. Or just use generic USB charger, like those from dealextreme...
Hi everyone!
Firstly I am not sure if this is correct forum, but its only one related with hardware...
I has built my own emergency charger powered with solar energy.
It can provide 5V with 2A max. (about 10W) and provides two USB ports for devices.
Althought I dont have any phone/tablet with USB OTG (Host) function, I d like to prepare it to provide all this functions:
- charge two client devices
- charge two host devices
- charge one host and one client device
But, there is one problem with power - some OTG devices provides power, and some not.
Thats the thing, why I am asking - if both chargers connectors are powered and one host device is connected in it there will be a power collision - on one wire will be 5V from both sides - from e.g. phone and from charger. This will surely damage the phone because of shortcut.
I am right? Or, is a hosts power enabled, only, if there is not any external power plugged?
Hope, that anyone will understand, I can also provide a schematics later it it could help
Thanks anyone !!!
The wire is the same, so there won't be any collision, it doesn't matter where the voltage source point is when it's applied on the same wire (without any component in between the voltage sources).
I guess maybe the only thing will happen is that the phone battery won't have much or perhaps even no drain?
And speculating here on same line of thought, dunno exactly how the charging circuits work on the phone, but i guess it won't charge when in OTG mode even with an external power power source available...
My Touchpad doesn't provide OTG power but refuses to charge when in OTG mode, maybe other devices are different though. OTG will still work on it even if I disconnect the +5v Vcc (red) wire. If you wanted to force USB devices to be powered from the external supply maybe you could try disconnecting Vcc from the device.
Thanks - more people, more ideas,more knowledge
As told - there are two kinds of OTG devices - self powered (few Xperia`s and Samsung devices) and non powered (spunkler88`s Touchpad and e.g. my Xperia X10i).
In case of non powered devices, there shouldn`t be any problem, think that host just won`t accept power and nothing bad happens. But in case ot self.powered devices there is in OTG mode voltage on vcc pin - 3,3 or 5V (low power or high power mode).
I`m not so demanding to want host and slave to be charged at the same time.
We dont have to worry about non powered host devices, but afraid about powered ones... Or even if we don`t know, if our device is powered or not
Elusivo:
I know, that it is the same wire You maybe didn`t caught my point - there could be two power sources on one wire - one could be phone (in OTG mode) and one power on hub.
Will post an scheme as soon as possible.
HeliumX10 said:
I know, that it is the same wire You maybe didn`t caught my point - there could be two power sources on one wire - one could be phone (in OTG mode) and one power on hub.
Will post an scheme as soon as possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, actually there shouldn't be any issues with this now that I think of it. The phone if providing powered USB OTG would simply act as a parallel voltage source with the charger meaning voltage stays the same and the available currents add.
So, there is the block diagram of device which i have built:
The red cross indicates the one wire collision when DEVICE B provides power. If device B doesn`t provide power there won`t be any problems surely.
But as I thought of it, there is no solution for it - parallel voltage will surely damage one device on one side. The power sources providing high-efficient PWM power has very very low input resistance. So if we connect any voltage to its output, very high current will flow throught and surely damage the power source. This can happen very easily, because from phycisict`s point of view the higher voltage source will damage the less voltage source (there is +/- 10% tolerance on USB power, so this could happen everytime).
So now I am thinking about some mosfet auto switching circuit, which could automatically connect or disconnect power from master device... Or maybe will simple add an switch which will disconnect the power from master device everytime and power just a slave.
< wrong posting removed >
It doesn't pay to overthink this.
These devices are usually designed to take a beating.
Just connect all the Vcc's together.
I've been using something similar on my B&N Nook Touch for months.
It's not a solar charger, but a modified $10 USB hub.
I can use USB host mode on my Nook and charge at the same time.
Of course, all the peripherals are powered off the hub power supply too.
A general schematic is attached, pull the diode and insert a jumper.
Since USB was really not designed to charge in host mode,
there are two problems related to getting the device charging circuit to play nicely.
When using host mode to directly power a peripheral you must make the device charging circuit go off.
To go into host mode the device must raise the Vcc line to 90% of 5V, i.e. >4.5V.
If the device charging circuit is still enabled it will try to charge itself using itself!
When using host mode with incoming power the device charging circuit must be convinced to charge.
Renate NST said:
It doesn't pay to overthink this.
These devices are usually designed to take a beating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, mostly yes, but dont want to try if this is also for all devices. Most of them could take beatings,some not... So trying to design absolute save solution
Renate NST said:
A general schematic is attached, pull the diode and insert a jumper.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See that, diode is used as blocking diode, which prevents shortcut So VCCs cant be connected together without protection. It seems that is for case I spoke about power provided from OTG device....
So as I see, simpliest solution will be the best. I will add a switch at the output for one USB ports VCC wire. And if I will use my charger as host active hub, will disconnect power (with switch) to one port, second port will be powered all the time. When charging two slave devices, i could switch power back too to the second USB port.
Renate NST said:
When using host mode to directly power a peripheral you must make the device charging circuit go off.
To go into host mode the device must raise the Vcc line to 90% of 5V, i.e. >4.5V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, mainly thankx for this lines, once it happened that my phone indicated, thats chagring, but battery ran down.... Thought that was some kind of software relaed thing....
Hi Renate,
I've read and re-read your points several times and I think I understand.
My goal is to put together a battery powered USB Hub that also charges the phone at the same time. From your points, the B&N Nook is capable of going into Host mode while still accepting a charge - do you believe this to be true of most/all devices?
Did you have to do anything to get the Nook to charge in host mode other than supplying power by putting a jumper in lieu of the diode?
What $10 powered USB hub did you use?
Sorry for all the questions.
Renate NST said:
It doesn't pay to overthink this.
These devices are usually designed to take a beating.
Just connect all the Vcc's together.
I've been using something similar on my B&N Nook Touch for months.
It's not a solar charger, but a modified $10 USB hub.
I can use USB host mode on my Nook and charge at the same time.
Of course, all the peripherals are powered off the hub power supply too.
A general schematic is attached, pull the diode and insert a jumper.
Since USB was really not designed to charge in host mode,
there are two problems related to getting the device charging circuit to play nicely.
When using host mode to directly power a peripheral you must make the device charging circuit go off.
To go into host mode the device must raise the Vcc line to 90% of 5V, i.e. >4.5V.
If the device charging circuit is still enabled it will try to charge itself using itself!
When using host mode with incoming power the device charging circuit must be convinced to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zuberio said:
From your points, the B&N Nook is capable of going into Host mode while still accepting a charge - do you believe this to be true of most/all devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will answer these lines
Nook can charge when in host mode. But some new devices form Sony and Samsung cant,because they are providing power to hosted device. And if you connect active hub to them in host mode, you will damage the phone - thats why I opened this topic, but I solved it with simple diode indicator and switch (manually disconnects power to the phone if it provides power itself).
zuberio said:
What $10 powered USB hub did you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just meant any generic hub. They are all about the same.
Usually the input diode is easy to identify.
Often it's the physically largest device present.
If you want, post a good photo.
The 4 port ones have one chip, 2 for 7, 3 for 10, 4 for 13.
I've never seen/heard of a hub chip with more than four outputs.
Yes, the USB spec does say only four outputs, but that's for unpowered hubs.
The spec for all the device USB chips have a maximum recommended of 7V on the lines.
I don't lose any sleep putting my 5V in.
Thanks for warning me off just going out and applying Vcc to my phone in host mode without first testing if it supplies it's own power.
When you say diode indicator do you mean an LED? And if the LED lights up you flip a switch to disconnect the hub power to the phone?
HeliumX10 said:
I will answer these lines
Nook can charge when in host mode. But some new devices form Sony and Samsung cant,because they are providing power to hosted device. And if you connect active hub to them in host mode, you will damage the phone - thats why I opened this topic, but I solved it with simple diode indicator and switch (manually disconnects power to the phone if it provides power itself).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
---------- Post added at 07:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------
Ah, I understand now.
I guess the safest option for my battery backup/powered usb hub device is to install a 'mode' switch. Either it's a battery backup, or it's a battery powered USB hub - depending on the 'mode'.
Now I just need to hunt down a cheap powered USB hub and a battery that will power it or my phone.......
Actually, would there be any issues using an inline powered USB hub and disconnecting the Vcc from the host side to instead attach to a 5V 1A power source? The power source could probably be two minty-boosts in parallel.
[EDIT] Doh, I looked again at your hub.jpg - I just need to use a powered USB hub setup like that with a switch to bypass the diode for the 'phone charge mode' mentioned above (probably with some special resistances between D+ and D- depending on the device).
Renate NST said:
I just meant any generic hub. They are all about the same.
Usually the input diode is easy to identify.
Often it's the physically largest device present.
If you want, post a good photo.
The 4 port ones have one chip, 2 for 7, 3 for 10, 4 for 14.
I've never seen/heard of a hub chip with more than four outputs.
Yes, the USB spec does say only four outputs, but that's for unpowered hubs.
The spec for all the device USB chips have a maximum recommended of 7V on the lines.
I don't lose any sleep putting my 5V in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zuberio said:
(probably with some special resistances between D+ and D- depending on the device).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, resistors between D+ and D- are only for charging devices that are not communicating.
If you want to charge and communicate then you have to leave those alone.
That's why I said that you may need a kernel driver mod or an app to turn on charging when communicating.
I agree and understand - I guess I wasn't very clear in my last post.
My device will have two separate modes.
Mode 1:
Battery powered USB hub that doesn't provide power upstream to the OTG host device.
Mode 2:
Battery backup power device - powered USB hub disconnected
Such a device would be compatible with all Android devices, regardless of weather they provide power in OTG Host mode or not
Renate NST said:
No, resistors between D+ and D- are only for charging devices that are not communicating.
If you want to charge and communicate then you have to leave those alone.
That's why I said that you may need a kernel driver mod or an app to turn on charging when communicating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zuberio said:
I agree and understand - I guess I wasn't very clear in my last post.
My device will have two separate modes.
Mode 1:
Battery powered USB hub that doesn't provide power upstream to the OTG host device.
Mode 2:
Battery backup power device - powered USB hub disconnected
Such a device would be compatible with all Android devices, regardless of weather they provide power in OTG Host mode or not
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understood clearly
This is the exactly the same I made completely myself. It has only 2 ports (no active chip, simplier and more reliable solution). It has One connector only for OTG master and second one port is for host device. When switch is on, power is also delivered into OTG host port, otherwise poered are all of the slave ports. But mine is designed mainly as emergency charger (for OTG Master device or two slave only phones/devices), or as active hub (thats why I added the switch with resistor and diode as power check).
Will post a diagram if you want.
prie irgseha
My touchpad is not power OTG, but refuses to load when the OTG mode, other devices will be different. OTG still working on it, even if I disconnect Vcc +5 V (red) wire. If you force, the USB devices be powered by external power supply might try unplugging the device Vcc.
BC1.2 Usb battery charging specs
Hi All,
I see that the last post here is a month ago, but here goes anyway. I am looking to do the same thing - I want to hack a 4 port powered USB hub to also charge the host (upstream) device.
Two modes of operation shouldn't be required. The specs allow for the phone to act as the USB host, and simultaneously charge. A powered USB should be easy to hack to simultaneously charge the phone and give you a useable USB hub for keyboard/mouse/usb stick or high-powered devices you can't use directly on the phone like USB hard disks.
I've made a reasonably close study of the Battery Charging Specification rev 1.2 (dec 2010) (USB implementers forum). The relevant sections and diagrams are around section 6.3: Standard ACA (accessory charging adapter) which could be a modified 4-port powered USB hub, hacked to be an "Accessory Charger Adapter" (figure 6-1):
1. The charger port should be 5V; jump that to the 5V V+ pin on the "OTG Port" - the OTG port would be the USB upstream port on the hub.
2. An ID resistance needs to be fitted integral to the μ-A Plug connecting to the OTG device, 124kohm between the ID pin and GND. (ref table 5-3 Resistances: RID_A; table 6-2 row 6)
I won't be able to use it anywhere else, because of the short to the V+ pin I've put there, but I would then have a battery charger for my phone which simultaneously works as a 4 port hub.
I have a Galaxy Note N7000. Does anyone know if this is FULLY compliant with the above referenced BC1.2 spec? I wonder because the Note also does audio and HDMI out on that port. Presumably with non-standard Rid values at the connector end.
Different hardware supports different ID pin sensing and data pin multiplexing.
On the Nook Touch, which uses a TPS65291, ID sensing is just short/open.
There is ability to use UART through the ULPI interface, but I haven't noticed it.
Many devices have separate muxes to integrate MHL, UART, CarKit (audio) and USB.
The CarKit is the tricky one because the signal goes below ground.
scitobor said:
I have a Galaxy Note N7000. Does anyone know if this is FULLY compliant with the above referenced BC1.2 spec? I wonder because the Note also does audio and HDMI out on that port. Presumably with non-standard Rid values at the connector end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect that the N7000 is very similar in Specs to the I9100, and thus it is more likely that it conform to the BC1.1 as mentioned and linked in this thread/post here. Remember that HDMI (and possibly audio) is not covered by the BC specs and very manufacturer dependent.
I have a serious issue with my Nexus 7 2012. I put CM11 on it and all was great. The power got down to 11% on me, so I plugged it into my computer. I noticed it wasn’t charging, MTP didn’t kick in, and I couldn't get into ADB. I figured I’d screwed up the USB port. I tried different cables all with the same results. I turned the tablet off and plugged it in and the battery started charging. I couldn’t get MTP or PTP to work nor could I get into ADB after it was charged. I did a factory reset, clearing everything, and reinstalled. Same issue.
I can use my OTG cable and TWRP to install software on the tablet. I tried AKOP ROM. It allows me to use my OTG cable but the tablet doesn’t charge. I try to toggle MTP to PTP or turn off USB debugging and the tablet locks and reboots. I try to turn off the developer options toggle and the tablet locks and restarts.
Help! I don’t know what to do with it. I've searched all day.
Check the basics. When you plug your N7 into your computer, are you using a USB 2.0 port? Is it directly mounted on the computer's motherboard (i.e., a rear port)? Are the proper drivers installed so your N7 is recognized as a Nexus 7?
USB specifications only provide .5A power, v. 2.0A power from the AC charger. Get your N7 fully charged,then get back with whether it locks and reboots.
exglynco said:
Check the basics. When you plug your N7 into your computer, are you using a USB 2.0 port? Is it directly mounted on the computer's motherboard (i.e., a rear port)? Are the proper drivers installed so your N7 is recognized as a Nexus 7?
USB specifications only provide .5A power, v. 2.0A power from the AC charger. Get your N7 fully charged,then get back with whether it locks and reboots.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. Yes. I've done all of that. Multiple computers, multiple cables, multiple chargers. The Nexus is at 100%.
Here's the exact issue I have now: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2536272
Well. I'm going to say disregard. My searches show that a craptastic 12 volt car charger probably hosed the N7's mother board. I'm going to try one more fix but I'm sure it's toast.