I was hoping someone might be able to give me an idea if my idea would be possible. Basically, I want to take this Case and this Qi Reciever and be able to use them together.
The question I have is this: I see the case has 2 contacts that obviously match up with the phone. Could I use a piece of copper to make both the case and receiver make contact with the points on the phone? Or would this render either the Qi Charging or case to not function?
Thanks in advance!
toonhead85
toonhead85 said:
I was hoping someone might be able to give me an idea if my idea would be possible. Basically, I want to take this Case and this Qi Reciever and be able to use them together.
The question I have is this: I see the case has 2 contacts that obviously match up with the phone. Could I use a piece of copper to make both the case and receiver make contact with the points on the phone? Or would this render either the Qi Charging or case to not function?
Thanks in advance!
toonhead85
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You can better ask your question here : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2438168
Related
I used a pixi charging back case (5.99usd) and touchstone charging base (9.99usd) to create this mod. You can find them on clearance at radioshack!
Can be made for other devices: ipods, iphones, bluetooth headset, etc...
Comment plz.
-Carnivore
Maybe some photos and more descriptions?
Im curious how this looks/working.
sure interesting, and most valuable as a proof-of-concept realization, even if I'de never go out with a setup like that
Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc
Nice
Yeah it looks nice but i don't think anybody is siriously going to use this do you??
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
Anyways nice work. Good that people are trying to improve the phones usability.
keesmathot said:
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
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oh I bet he's had a lot of fun doing it That alone is more than enough of a reason
I tried doing something like this a little while back, the connectors next to the sim card can be used for charging which would make the whole thing much nicer and easier, it worked good, but the HD2 metal door blocked the signal so it would not charge, so I used it with a sillicon case on top, it was good but not the best, then I tried to hard wire it inside, opened the HD2, it got few dust specs behind the LCD from opening, I tried blowing them away and the whole screen died, well it was a sad story which eventually ended up on ebay, and I had to get a different one I WILL NOT TRY THIS AGAIN, i hope.
thats good of you to try. hope you find a compatible plastic back for it or some other solution.
ill be looking forward to your progress on this as i have a palm pre and an extra touchstone charger.
RedWave31 said:
Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc
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The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?
Carnivore9 said:
The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?
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they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.
lude219 said:
they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.
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I actually was fooling around with a microusb charging head and found that if you ground one of the data wires, the navpanel will show up. I was a little confused at first since I've never used it before then figured out it was a hidden feature.
I want to permanently disable my Samsung Galaxy S4's internal antenna. I know doing this seems a bit unorthodox but I have my reasons why I want to do so. I will be connecting an external antenna via the L1 port using a patch lead cable. No I don't want to use the internal antenna ever so I'm wondering how it can be disconnected; I don't want any responses asking me why I want this to be done I just want possible solutions. I was wondering if I could open the phone and somewhat remove the antenna or mess with the antenna contacts so it could stop working I'm not sure though so I need either a hardware or software solution.
The antenna is simply a wire running down the side of the battery compartment. Open the S4, disconnect that wire, and you should be able to achieve what you want.
Just one thing. Telling people you don't want questions as to why you're doing this is inevitably going to lead to people asking questions as to why you're doing this. In the future, if you don't want to pique people's curiosity, either come out and say why you're doing it, or don't make such an announcement.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
The antenna is simply a wire running down the side of the battery compartment. Open the S4, disconnect that wire, and you should be able to achieve what you want.
Just one thing. Telling people you don't want questions as to why you're doing this is inevitably going to lead to people asking questions as to why you're doing this. In the future, if you don't want to pique people's curiosity, either come out and say why you're doing it, or don't make such an announcement.
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Okay thanks I will get a technician to pull the device for me. The reason i am doing it is that I am electrically sensitive...WiFi...cell signals they make me sick. The condition is relatively rare in some countries but it's increasing worldwide. Most times when I mention it to people that I am a 22 yr old electrically sensitive software engineer there's so much skepticism and ridicule because most people don't believe in the harmful effects of wireless radiation because they haven't experienced it first hand.
So my aim is to disconnect the internal antennae, then have an external one that's a good distance away that I connect to my device so I can use cell services without the radiation affecting me. I have a radio frequency meter that I use to measure the signals.The source of radiation is from the antennae so I have all other wireless features disabled and I would like to use this particular one that I can isolate/control.
If it makes you sick, that's understandable. If you want to do it yourself and not bother with the tech, taking the back off to get to the antenna wire is a pretty easy task. Nine screws and popping a tab or two and the back comes off. In your case, you want to completely remove the wire from the device as even if it's disconnected on one end, the other end may still be able to transmit. The wire snaps in at both ends, so again, it's a simple thing to do.
Alright thanks for the info. I don't have the screw driver so I guess I will have to make a technician do it. I am all the way in Jamaica so it's easier to go to a tech than to ship a small package here. I know about the antenna wire but I am wondering if its the only antennae ( apart from the WiFi, bluetooth etc. that can be disabled ) because I saw on a website a picture of the insides and there are two antenna contacts at the top that connect to an antennae thats on the shell. So is this wire the sole antennae mechanism for the GSM?
Honestly, I don't know.
joeldean said:
Alright thanks for the info. I don't have the screw driver so I guess I will have to make a technician do it. I am all the way in Jamaica so it's easier to go to a tech than to ship a small package here. I know about the antenna wire but I am wondering if its the only antennae ( apart from the WiFi, bluetooth etc. that can be disabled ) because I saw on a website a picture of the insides and there are two antenna contacts at the top that connect to an antennae thats on the shell. So is this wire the sole antennae mechanism for the GSM?
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hi mate ,
The wire connects the antenna at the bottom to the module where the GSM/EDGE , WIFI , BT, etc chips are , that cable seem to be the only physical connection between the antenna and the respective controlling chips
Check here , steps 13 , 14 and 15
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung+Galaxy+S4+Teardown/13947
@MAX 404: I couldn't remember whether that was the case or not. I had other things on my plate.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@MAX 404: I couldn't remember whether that was the case or not. I had other things on my plate.
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Hi mate ,
You cover planty my friend , you are a big help around here :good::good:
I would like to take out the rear camera on my Samsung Galaxy Tab S 8.4 and just have it dangling outside the tablet. Is there some kind of camera extension cable that I could buy?
It would be easier to use a good external USB webcam and this app;
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=infinitegra.trial.usbcamera
I cannot use USB because it's occupied by charger.
I know the camera is easy to remove....its just a matter of extending the cable that connects to it.....if thats possible..........I dont see why it wouldnt be..... Im suprised this thread has no replies actually
openupitsdave said:
I cannot use USB because it's occupied by charger.
I know the camera is easy to remove....its just a matter of extending the cable that connects to it.....if thats possible..........I dont see why it wouldnt be..... Im suprised this thread has no replies actually
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Sure anything is possible, without knowing to much about your specific device i will say chances are there is nothing you can buy premade to do this
General instructions to do it would be
Find a suitable place for the camera module
Cut out any needed hole
Find away to afix the module (maybe just adhesive tape)
All that should be easy enough
The hard part will be making a cable that could connect to the oem port the module is in, it may just be easier to hardwire it
This would involve some fairly precise soldering of maybe 22 gauge wire to module and oem port, if you are lucky you may find a harness somewhere that has the right ends and minimal splicing is needed then, but chances are no,
So unless you are willing to do the fine soldering or pay someone to it will be a tricky endeavor
Hello, I need your help.
I send my car to repaired, and when I received the car the radio was broken.
They said that turning on the battery they turned the polarity, and I opened the radio and had a burned component.
Needed to identify the component that is missing in L1.
Can someone confirm by an equal radio please?
Or someone know where I can get the scheme of this radio?
Thanks for all the help you can give me.
No input protection on these? hehe. Guess we shouldn't expect that much, a whole diode is way too expensive to put in. lol.
L designates an inductor, so you have to find the value and then you should be good to go. Hopefully nothing else is fried...
Hilari0 said:
No input protection on these? hehe. Guess we shouldn't expect that much, a whole diode is way too expensive to put in. lol.
L designates an inductor, so you have to find the value and then you should be good to go. Hopefully nothing else is fried...
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Yes, if I can repair it, I'll put two diodes in the entrance, one in (+) and one in (-), so I will not have any surprises.
It's what I expect, someone who has a radio equal to be able to know the value.
And thanks you for your opinion.
Unfortunately, I don't have the same unit. If you can figure out what that inductor does in the circuit, it should be possible to calculate the correct value of it. Likely very small, judging by the apparent size
Okay, I'll try to track the 12V supply of the radio and then I'll ask you for help for the calculation.
I have a OnePlus 5 with broken usb-mic connector on the motherboard (FPC). I'd like to restore the charging functionality and, at best, also the usb (data + data -) line. There is a schematic for the FPC pin assignment? There are other place on the board where I can find 5v,gnd,data+,data- line (maybe a jtag or a service hole/plate)?
I also have a spare connector but there's not enough space to re-solder and some plates are gone with the broken connector, so I'd like to find an alternative way.
Thanks
fraschized said:
I have a OnePlus 5 with broken usb-mic connector on the motherboard (FPC). I'd like to restore the charging functionality and, at best, also the usb (data + data -) line. There is a schematic for the FPC pin assignment? There are other place on the board where I can find 5v,gnd,data+,data- line (maybe a jtag or a service hole/plate)?
I also have a spare connector but there's not enough space to re-solder and some plates are gone with the broken connector, so I'd like to find an alternative way.
Thanks
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Honestly, resoldering would not help, and since are pretty much left with no alternative but burn chunks of money, I don't know what you expect from here?
vdbhb59 said:
Honestly, resoldering would not help, and since are pretty much left with no alternative but burn chunks of money, I don't know what you expect from here?
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I can't understand what You're talking about.
The question (I suppose in the correct section) was easy: There are pins or plates (except the fpc connector) on the OnePlus 5 Board to power it?
For the pourpose I have in mind (a Tasker bridge device) the solder solution would be great, if possible. Seems strange that in the whole board there's not an alternative +5v and a GND to power it. But, after a week and with only Your (non contributing) answer I think I have to get the circuit tester and route some points myself.
I'd rather prefer no answers If the only one I get is about the circumstances and not about the point.
Thanks anyway
fraschized said:
I can't understand what You're talking about.
The question (I suppose in the correct section) was easy: There are pins or plates (except the fpc connector) on the OnePlus 5 Board to power it?
For the pourpose I have in mind (a Tasker bridge device) the solder solution would be great, if possible. Seems strange that in the whole board there's not an alternative +5v and a GND to power it. But, after a week and with only Your (non contributing) answer I think I have to get the circuit tester and route some points myself.
I'd rather prefer no answers If the only one I get is about the circumstances and not about the point.
Thanks anyway
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Sorry to say if you see it that way. I know what I wrote was correct, and I was just resonating your point that there is no way out. Not sure if you seem to have seen it differently and rather why??
vdbhb59 said:
Sorry to say if you see it that way. I know what I wrote was correct, and I was just resonating your point that there is no way out. Not sure if you seem to have seen it differently and rather why??
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There's always a way out, maybe it could be difficult or expensive, that's not the point. We're talking about a connector, not a more complex component.
Banally, the first way is by following the 5v from usb cable to fcp connector, (as described in a youtube video about OP5T) and check if that plate is still there, then, if not, if there is another point of the same line or a scratchable spot.
The question was about existent schematics and/or other people experience about this or similiar. Things that can make everything easier or confirmed.
So:
- The "repair" is achievable? Absolutely Yes if the fpc plate is not damaged (by making a bridge); probably Yes if damaged.
- The "repair" makes sense? Yes, for my purposes
I can't see Your point and Your statement, as I already know there's a way (that I've asked to be confirmed or already experienced) .