I have a OnePlus 5 with broken usb-mic connector on the motherboard (FPC). I'd like to restore the charging functionality and, at best, also the usb (data + data -) line. There is a schematic for the FPC pin assignment? There are other place on the board where I can find 5v,gnd,data+,data- line (maybe a jtag or a service hole/plate)?
I also have a spare connector but there's not enough space to re-solder and some plates are gone with the broken connector, so I'd like to find an alternative way.
Thanks
fraschized said:
I have a OnePlus 5 with broken usb-mic connector on the motherboard (FPC). I'd like to restore the charging functionality and, at best, also the usb (data + data -) line. There is a schematic for the FPC pin assignment? There are other place on the board where I can find 5v,gnd,data+,data- line (maybe a jtag or a service hole/plate)?
I also have a spare connector but there's not enough space to re-solder and some plates are gone with the broken connector, so I'd like to find an alternative way.
Thanks
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Honestly, resoldering would not help, and since are pretty much left with no alternative but burn chunks of money, I don't know what you expect from here?
vdbhb59 said:
Honestly, resoldering would not help, and since are pretty much left with no alternative but burn chunks of money, I don't know what you expect from here?
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I can't understand what You're talking about.
The question (I suppose in the correct section) was easy: There are pins or plates (except the fpc connector) on the OnePlus 5 Board to power it?
For the pourpose I have in mind (a Tasker bridge device) the solder solution would be great, if possible. Seems strange that in the whole board there's not an alternative +5v and a GND to power it. But, after a week and with only Your (non contributing) answer I think I have to get the circuit tester and route some points myself.
I'd rather prefer no answers If the only one I get is about the circumstances and not about the point.
Thanks anyway
fraschized said:
I can't understand what You're talking about.
The question (I suppose in the correct section) was easy: There are pins or plates (except the fpc connector) on the OnePlus 5 Board to power it?
For the pourpose I have in mind (a Tasker bridge device) the solder solution would be great, if possible. Seems strange that in the whole board there's not an alternative +5v and a GND to power it. But, after a week and with only Your (non contributing) answer I think I have to get the circuit tester and route some points myself.
I'd rather prefer no answers If the only one I get is about the circumstances and not about the point.
Thanks anyway
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Sorry to say if you see it that way. I know what I wrote was correct, and I was just resonating your point that there is no way out. Not sure if you seem to have seen it differently and rather why??
vdbhb59 said:
Sorry to say if you see it that way. I know what I wrote was correct, and I was just resonating your point that there is no way out. Not sure if you seem to have seen it differently and rather why??
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There's always a way out, maybe it could be difficult or expensive, that's not the point. We're talking about a connector, not a more complex component.
Banally, the first way is by following the 5v from usb cable to fcp connector, (as described in a youtube video about OP5T) and check if that plate is still there, then, if not, if there is another point of the same line or a scratchable spot.
The question was about existent schematics and/or other people experience about this or similiar. Things that can make everything easier or confirmed.
So:
- The "repair" is achievable? Absolutely Yes if the fpc plate is not damaged (by making a bridge); probably Yes if damaged.
- The "repair" makes sense? Yes, for my purposes
I can't see Your point and Your statement, as I already know there's a way (that I've asked to be confirmed or already experienced) .
Related
hi all,
recently, i found CM10 had been successfully ported to thinkpad tablet, but at the same time, my vol+ button was broken.
How can I boot into CMW without Vol+ button?
I tried "reboot recovery" but there is nothing change.
BR,
Ben
benuy said:
How can I boot into CMW without Vol+ button?
I tried "reboot recovery" but there is nothing change.
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I suspect you're a little stuck without the relevant hardware buttons operational. The keypress sequence to boot into the recovery partition will be coded in the bootloader which is relatively uncharted territory. ROW devices are supposed to have an unlocked bootloader but you're a braver man than me if you tinker with it.
Is your device still under warranty? If so, you're best off sending it back for repair. Though I'm assuming that yours has expired since you're asking here. Even if the warranty has run out Lenovo would probably still agree to repair it ... with a hit to your c/card of course.
You could try disassembling the device yourself using the instructions in the service manual (http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/0a96158.pdf). Reports elsewhere say its not that difficult. If it's just the plastic mount that's broken you could attempt a repair or remove it completely and cycle the switch with a pointy device. If the switch itself is broken I hope you're good with a soldering iron or know someone who is.
Many thx, it is extremely easy to dissemble it..haha...i fixed it la...thz a lot!
One more question, my micro-usb also broken, can I buy a micro-usb to replace the broken one?
benuy said:
One more question, my micro-usb also broken, can I buy a micro-usb to replace the broken one?
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Your TPT has lead a hard life
Do you mean the cable or the TPT socket?
The cable is generic ... just look on ebay.
The socket will be specific to the TPT and not easily replaced. If it's just come off the mainboard you may be able to solder it back on. Otherwise, if the internal pins are broken you're out of luck. Talk to Lenovo ... they may be able to fix it for you.
you should be able to fix everything with a soldering iron
i dont know which usb connector they build in, i need to take a look but in general lenovo also need to buy them from somewhere so the chances are good that you will find a replacement connector somewhere at mouser, digikey, rs-components, farnell or somewhere else.
normaly the micro-usb is a SMD Component, so you can use a desoldering wick and soldering iron to remove the broken one, and then replace it with your new one.
i would not recommend to solder down broken pins, because mostly there is also a mechanical deformation inside the connector, so it will not work. replacement connector cost you about 1$...
if you have never soldered before, you probably need some help there, because SMD Soldering is very special and you can ruin your pcb within seconds if you dont have the right equipment and expertise!
edit: as far as i can tell from these pictures: http://www.wirelessgoodness.com/2012/01/06/lenovos-thinkpad-tablet-gets-an-fcc-tear-down/ the micro usb should be "easily" replaceable, seems to be a standard component...
Hello everyone,
Since a few days my phone doesn't charge unless I hold the cable up and in the left or right corner of the port.
If I just stick it in, it doesn't connect/charge at all. And sometimes it says it's charging, but it isn't at all (or it's losing more power than it's receiving because it doesn't have good contact with the port).
Is there any fix to this or does anyone else have this problem?
It is NOT a problem with my micro-USB cable, I tried many, they all act the same.
Bad news
You have to replace your USB port, there's no doubt about, unfortunately!:crying:
Edit: there's a little chance to solve this by cleaning up your USB port...
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
samsamuel said:
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
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I suppose this is a stand for what I said:highfive:?!
hehe,. yea, , only to begin with i was countering your 'theres no doubt' remark, , but then realised i hadn't read your whole post.
Well guys, I tried cleaning. A layer of dust came of so I got excited, but it didn't work.
There also is way too much play with the cable when it's in, so yeah.
How much is that port change going to cost me?
from what I've read its not so much the price as the difficulty, , there are loads of stories of repair shops screwing it up. If you're a dab hand with a soldering iron, give it a go, or if you go to a repair shop, get down in writing what they are gonna do if they screw it up.
Yet again a good advice!
I wouldn't suggest to do it your self unless you're a soldering master: as samuel suggested there are (so called) profesionals failing to do this, just because it's tricky enough to get the job done the right way.:fingers-crossed:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
Mister B said:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
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I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
Unscrewed said:
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
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May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
Mister B said:
May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
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Click to collapse
Sure thing! I have one question, though. How do I correctly open up the device without damaging it (too much)?
Torx screwdriver and a thin credit card, there break down videos on youtube.
As above really, do your homework on stripdown & take a lot of care, back cover is easy if done right, plectrum is useful plastic tool for prying things apart or get hold of decent plastic opening tools, credit card can be used but too thick really.
i bought my tab like 1 month ago and in the second day i bought it my cat droped it down from the desk to the floor breaking the digitizer i gave it to the company to replace it and i waited 1 month and they told me that they coudn't find the replacement part when i got home i but it to charge but nothing happent called them asked them if they had opend it nope they havn't then i opend it i found the usb power cable was cutt off if any one has picture on how it was or has the layout of the cable to the micro usb could u please show it to me so i can fix it and i can send pictures so other need to open and fix it know how thanks
... What?
ahmedoso said:
i bought my tab like 1 month ago, and in the second day i bought it my cat droped it down from the desk to the floor, breaking the digitizer.
I gave it to the company to replace it, and i waited 1 month, and they told me that they coudn't find the replacement part. when it got home i put it to charge but nothing happend.
Called them asked them if they had opend it. nope they havn't then i opend it.
i found the usb power cable was cutt off.
if any one has picture on how it was or has the layout of the cable to the micro usb, could u please show it to me so i can fix it and i can send pictures so other need to open and fix it know how thanks
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The last paragraph is beyond my repair powerz.
I think he needs a new USB cable.
I didn't catch a word of that.
Use punctuation if you want help because otherwise we don't have a clue what your on about
mcosmin222 said:
The last paragraph is beyond my repair powerz.
I think he needs a new USB cable.
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i bought another ribbon cable with 22 pins and while soldering it to the board of the usb the solder on it made bridges in some places and other places the solder came out it and dosn't adhere to the board any more so i am asking for the layout of the board so i can directly solder the ribbon cable to the micro usb pins
ahmedoso said:
i bought another ribbon cable with 22 pins and while soldering it to the board of the usb the solder on it made bridges in some places and other places the solder came out it and dosn't adhere to the board any more so i am asking for the layout of the board so i can directly solder the ribbon cable to the micro usb pins
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You do realize those plans are secret, right?
SixSixSevenSeven said:
I didn't catch a word of that.
Use punctuation if you want help because otherwise we don't have a clue what your on about
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all i want to say is that inside the tab the ribbon cable connecting from the micro usb to the board was cut off and it must be soldered to the micro usb pins i need to know which of them is the data + and data - and the ground i already know the vcc and i think i got the ground right other than that i am in total mess thanks for replaying and srry for my english
mcosmin222 said:
You do realize those plans are secret, right?
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not a single clue they are and if they had good guys that can fix it in egypt i have no proplem the thing is i had it only for 1 day frastration has got into me
/If/ (and that's a big if) it's a single layer board (which I really doubt) you can follow the traces from the pads to whatever. Else, I doubt you'll be able to get it fixed.
netham45 said:
/If/ (and that's a big if) it's a single layer board (which I really doubt) you can follow the traces from the pads to whatever. Else, I doubt you'll be able to get it fixed.
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nope it is not single layer ,But i can fix it if just anyone told me the voltage of them
i do thank you for wanting to help And srry for missing your replay up just saw it now
What a mess.... lol i can only say that ....
tell me about it
I would like to take out the rear camera on my Samsung Galaxy Tab S 8.4 and just have it dangling outside the tablet. Is there some kind of camera extension cable that I could buy?
It would be easier to use a good external USB webcam and this app;
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=infinitegra.trial.usbcamera
I cannot use USB because it's occupied by charger.
I know the camera is easy to remove....its just a matter of extending the cable that connects to it.....if thats possible..........I dont see why it wouldnt be..... Im suprised this thread has no replies actually
openupitsdave said:
I cannot use USB because it's occupied by charger.
I know the camera is easy to remove....its just a matter of extending the cable that connects to it.....if thats possible..........I dont see why it wouldnt be..... Im suprised this thread has no replies actually
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Sure anything is possible, without knowing to much about your specific device i will say chances are there is nothing you can buy premade to do this
General instructions to do it would be
Find a suitable place for the camera module
Cut out any needed hole
Find away to afix the module (maybe just adhesive tape)
All that should be easy enough
The hard part will be making a cable that could connect to the oem port the module is in, it may just be easier to hardwire it
This would involve some fairly precise soldering of maybe 22 gauge wire to module and oem port, if you are lucky you may find a harness somewhere that has the right ends and minimal splicing is needed then, but chances are no,
So unless you are willing to do the fine soldering or pay someone to it will be a tricky endeavor
Charging today confirmed my worst fears. My original NST has an issue with the USB socket. I know there are tear-downs online, but I haven't seen anything addressing this issue. Maybe people just toss them?!
Anyway, I'm not afraid to open the thing but I am worried that it may be like other more recent devices I've tried to deal with where it was clear they were never designed to be touched by human hands.
Does anyone know if the solder connections are user-friendly? @Renate NST?
Replacing a USB socket is always the best fix.
I've still had good luck with blowing all the lint out of the socket and
carefully squashing the shell a bit to make the physical fit tighter.
Renate NST said:
Replacing a USB socket is always the best fix.
I've still had good luck with blowing all the lint out of the socket and
carefully squashing the shell a bit to make the physical fit tighter.
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Thanks. I'll give that a shot before disassembly but I'm not thinking that will solve the problem based on the way it behaves when the plug is jiggled. So far I can still charge if I am determined enough to find the sweet spot. I'm just hoping there's enough left of the solder tabs/points/? to allow a resolder if that's what's needed.
So finally I brought together all the tools needed and followed this guide to take the NST apart. Everything went smoothly and now I know I can easily replace the battery (although I'd be unlikely to do so since a new battery would probably cost more than another NST...). And....I got it all back together without misadventure (other than it turning on while trying to get the case back repositioned) and it all seems to work fine. That's the good news.
The bad news: as I feared, most of the contact points for the USB socket are so tiny that human hands could not possibly deal with them. At least not my human hands, and even if they could, I don't have a soldering tool tiny enough to even think about reheating a joint. It took a powerful magnifying glass to inspect what I could see of the joints and I did not find anything amiss. I even inserted the USB plug and gently jiggled it to see if anything betrayed a loose connection. NADA.
So, I'm out a few bucks for the tools but mostly I just now know that this situation is not going to get any better. I can charge by carefully inserting and tapping on the connector until I get a steady LED and the charging image comes up on the screen. I can do everything else via WiFi (but no USB Audio for this device any more).