Hello,
I've accidentally cracked my NOOK ST (without glowlight) lcd screen recently. As I was looking for a new lcd on eBay I've got an idea to make my NOOK a glowlight. Would it be possible if I just bought myself a NOOK ST with glowlight lcd screen and simply replace my cracked one with it? I don't expect it to be that easy, but maybe there's a chance anyway? I really like my NOOK ST and wouldn't want any other e-reader.
Also could anyone advice me with what type of lcd screen can I buy for NOOK ST? The original ones seem to cost a fortune, so maybe it's possible just to buy any other lcd screen of the same size and replace it?
Thank you
Can anyone comment on this one? I've some horizontal lines on my Nook w/o glo.
Well... It seems that those devices use exactly the same eInk panel. Assembly on the NSTwG has only those additional elements:
1. Additional light dispersion layer between the eInk panel and the matte protective sticker (yup, Nook has something like that straight from the factory) - this is the one responsible for infamous "light leaks".
2. A strip of tiny SMD LEDs with a connector, taped to the screen assembly right on the upper edge:
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3. A socket on the motherboard for the LED connector:
I've tried to investigate in which pins the current should flow to power the LEDs, but due to the imprecision of my power adapter voltage regulation and too big probes the results have only 80% of certainty. But I am absolutely confident that those LEDs did behave as follows:
- no light at 1,5V
- weak light at 3V
- strong light at 4,5V (I did not went higher to protect the leds)
Edit:[It turned out that my power supply unit is malfunctioning an it sends quite a different voltage than it is supposed to at a given potentiometer setting. So I've measured what voltage those LEDs do actually get from the Nook when the Glowlight is on:
11,67 V at full power
11,11 V at around 1/2 power
10,76 V at around 1/4 power
10,10 V at minimum power. ]
Conclusion: you should be able to use the screen from the NSTwG in the regular NST, and the backlight should work if only you can think of a way of supplying and regulating the current (maybe with a potentiometer lead out from the case) either from the Nook itself or from an external battery stored with the ereader in its etui/cover?
And by the way - for the replacement screens look at:
Used ones at powerbookmedic.com : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/Nook-Simple-Touch-LCD-and-Digitizer-Assembly-p-22957.html
Or new ones at alibaba with glowlight: http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Original-New-E-ink-Screen-With_1341677644.html
or without it: http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?fsb=y&IndexArea=product_en&CatId=&SearchText=ED060SCE+(LF)
Cheers!
Bonus: the LED strip transplanted from one NSTwG to another NSTwG without the rest of the screen assembly:
There are 8 white LEDs on the little board.
They are divided into two serial chains.
They are being driven by a constant current supply.
That means that the voltage drop on a white led is about 2.5V x 4 = about 10V.
The exact voltage varies with temperature and current.
You can't say that 11.095V gives you half brightness.
You need to drive them off a circuit that regulates the current, not the voltage.
I don't know if the LEDs are driven off the standard PMIC, but I would guess that they are.
Thank you for the correction, Renate NST. I am only a layman with a screwdriver, a multimeter, a soldering iron and a liking for DIY projects. With hardly any knowledge about electronics, to be honest.
Related
Long post, sorry.
Phone slid off the couch, hit the floor, battery door popped off, and afterwards if I moved the phone while on a call or slid the keyboard out to type it would just go black.
A light shake and it would die. So I popped the battery out and took the back cover off. Inside, the black battery connector (I can post a pic) was half attached like a loose tooth.
Took it to a repair shop, the guy was great soldered it back on but said it probably wouldnt charge cause a line on the main board broke????.
Phone doesn't seem to recognize the battery. Red solid light when plugged in, no amber with the battery in. Wont turn on. Anyone have any suggestions or am I looking at a brick. Does anyone on this board do repairs like this?
Its a Softbank X01HT from ebay and I flashed it to Mobile 6 so warranty is pretty much out of the question.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Fredrick
PS, I'd make a suggestion to anyone who's battery moves around inside the phone to wedge it in place so this doesn't happen to you. We don't hear of this happening often(or ever) but it happen to me, I suspect its because the battery has a little bit of room to move.
May get a chance late tomorrow to see if there may be a work around. This is not an easy board to work on though. A pic of the "broken-line" would be most useful if at all possible,
Can we assume, the black part you refer to is the part with the gold battery connectors at the bottom of this photo?
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Mike
Thanks for the quick reply Mike.
While it was off he showed me the bottom of the connector assembly, where the broken line is.
Red arrows are the 6 solder points
Blue arrows show the line.( I think, I'm not 100% sure what a line is)
How this helps clarify.
Thanks,
Fredrick
Well sadly, having looked at the board, I think the guy who soldered the connector back on, did about as good a job as it is possible to do. It appears that the connector block contacts (two of them) have broken off the board contacts. With a crude board you could simply trace back to the break point and solder a wire from the board to the connector. However the Hermes usesa multi-layer board that means it is impossible to trace back to a point just after the break.
Unfortunately then, unless there was some of the board contact still showing, you cannot solder short wires to join to the contact block With a detailed circuit diagram you might be able to identify alternate points to solder a couple of wires to link to the connector block. This though is such a remote possibility that you can virtually count it out. I do not know of such a diagram that is publically available and manual soldering on this scale would be almost impossible. If HTC were asked to repair this board, they would just replace it.
Sorry!
Mike
PS You didn't say whether it worked normally after the repair and before the battery ran flat. If it did, you could in theory charge your batteries in a free standing battery charger, but I doubt it would be worth the hassle.
mikechannon said:
You didn't say whether it worked normally after the repair and before the battery ran flat. If it did, you could in theory charge your batteries in a free standing battery charger, but I doubt it would be worth the hassle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Our solder friend suggested the same, but the phone doesn't recognize the battery being connected. So no dice, its a brick.
Anyone want to buy a white case with a front camera. Or better yet, can I buy a board for it somewhere?
Thanks again for a your time Mike.
Fredrick
hi! i have a dopod 838 pro. and it suddenly cant turn on. i was just texting then it went buggy (hanging up) then i did a soft reset then all of a sudden it didnt turn on. i was charging it at that time.
the phone never got wet, was never dropped. i installed the official wm 6.1 rom and it had been running for more than two weeks so i dont think the problem was the ROM. battery is good since i still get two days of battery.
i have tried hard resets, used the usb connector to power the phone up. i had this sent to the authorized htc service center, they tried another batt and charger but still nothing. i was told to leave it for 4 to 5 days...and after the wait i was told that the main board is the problem. and replacement is not an option since it would cost me twice the price of a second hand unit.
this was an observation: when i remove the battery and connect it to the charger, LED is red then it disappears when i replace the battery. no amber going.
is there still a fix for this? the service center does not perform any board level repairs. if this is a battery connector problem then a little soldering might fix it right? i hope i can still revive this. thanks!
a little help please! more power to this forum. thanks!
gab
The Hermes mainboard is a multilevel board. If the problem is a broken connector inside the mb then theres no hope. So saying, look at the connectors. If you see a break you can resolder and maybe have a bit more life yet.
Cheers...
ditto ultramag69.
Breaks in the connections below the board surface are virtual death to the motherboard. you could in theory put in jumper wires but you'd need detailed circuit diagrams and suitable solder points. However it may just be the surface connections of the battery connector block and these can be re-soldered. Here's a pic of the board with the block de-soldered;
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However, before going to re-solder you could just check it's not a poor contact between connector and battery (I doubt it is, but you never know). To test this out try this:
You could also press on the connector a little while you power on. if this worked you could be fairly sure it's either the soldered connections or a crack internally.
Now if all of the above fails, you need to be aware that it could be a number of other things. A fault in the usb connector or damaged connections on the USB to board joints. Conceivably it could be some damaged caused (hairline crack perhaps) when you inserted the stylus in the reset hole. possibly even a damaged reset switch stuck in the on position etc etc. Any of these things would really require test equipment and even then without suitable data it would be difficult to diagnose.
good luck
mike
Hi guys. I rediscovered the Nook simple touch glow light I had lying around and opened it to replace the battery. As I opened the case along the edge I accidentally ripped apart a tiny flat plastic cable that attaches to a tiny pin connector near one corner of the motherboard. The cable runs from the opposite side of the motherboard to the pin connector on the face of the motherboard.
Can this cable be reattached somehow? Can the cable be replaced?
briv said:
Hi guys. I rediscovered the Nook simple touch glow light I had lying around and opened it to replace the battery. As I opened the case along the edge I accidentally ripped apart a tiny flat plastic cable that attaches to a tiny pin connector near one corner of the motherboard. The cable runs from the opposite side of the motherboard to the pin connector on the face of the motherboard.
Can this cable be reattached somehow? Can the cable be replaced?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you please provide some pictures?
briv said:
Hi guys. I rediscovered the Nook simple touch glow light I had lying around and opened it to replace the battery. As I opened the case along the edge I accidentally ripped apart a tiny flat plastic cable that attaches to a tiny pin connector near one corner of the motherboard. The cable runs from the opposite side of the motherboard to the pin connector on the face of the motherboard.
Can this cable be reattached somehow? Can the cable be replaced?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you mean the one near the microSD card slot, then it is just a glowlight power cable. It is not responsible for anything else than lighting up the screen.
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...and the light does work even when ripped out from the screen assembly of an another unit.
If you broke that cable, then it is possible to repair, but it require some skill. You can use a little piece of an old camera celuloid film, and stick it with a double sided tape to the bottom side of the broken point of the ribbon, to make a kind of a frame for the repair. Then you can very carefully sand the protective coating from the top side of that ribbon and solder the broken circuits or "paint" them with something like the Circuit Scribe. Good luck!
I just saw the iFixit teardown
https://youtu.be/VYFbSpvSE-w
I retrofitted a Galaxy S5 and S4 to wireless charging with Qi receivers off of eBay:
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I know there is one for the G4 (since it's in their flip cover), but I was wondering if it is possible to work with an existing coil and wire it up to the Nexus 5X.
First, the cover pops off like a Galaxy S5 cover:
Here is the back cover and internals. Normally, the NFC covers the battery, but I am thinking it might be above the camera since there are connectors from cover to internals and would make sense for Android pay. So, what is the big shield on the right that covers the battery? (see question mark):
I think the battery posts are under the white piece of tape on the right - easy access for an NFC receiver to charge:
Worst case, the battery contacts are accessible under the midframe (10 screws):
So, do you think a retrofit of an existing Qi receiver would work? (the NFC part might be not used). The shield on the back over the battery might have to be removed, but I am not sure of it's purpose. Alternatively, anybody heard if any company is making a Qi receiver for the 5X? I'd buy the 5X over the 6P if I could get wireless charging.
I guarantee it's do-able. I don't know if the battery fuel gauge contains the logic to simply solder the coil output directly to the leads going to the battery but it shouldn't be a problem to solder to the VDC/GND pins/traces coming from the USB port. The only thing that concerns me, and I'm saying this w/out having looked at how USB c accomplishes it's reversibility, is that the pins for power aren't achiral (for lack of a better word) depending on the orientation of the plug. Would need to read up on that.
Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.
Hi
etwashoo said:
Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The NFC antenna is around the camera, you are correct on that. That foam material, I'm guessing that is what it is, is there to fill any gap between the battery and the back case to avoid the back being able to press down, and being soft it works with the varying differences in tolerance with the the battery thickness. It could even be to fill a recess that was suppose to be filled by a wireless charging coil.
Notice though the foam continues up to the site of the fingerprint reader. That should remain, it's job is to apply pressure on the contact pads of the flexible circuit board.
In the video where they show a mod, what they have done is used a QI coil which has it's own circuitry which outputs 5 volts, this connects by thin wires to the +5v and ground of the USB socket, and from there goes to the battery via the normal charging circuit, the phone doesn't know it is wireless charging, it just looks like a USB charger is attached. This direct connection may cause a problem when plugging in a normal USB charger as you end up with 5 volts in reverse going into the QI circuitry and charger, presumably though that circuity is protected with a diode so it doesn't matter.
You shouldn't connect anything directly to the battery terminal as this will bypass all the charging circuitry and would cause damage and likely trigger the batteries protection circuits and cut it dead.
How cleanly the back refits is another thing, their can't be that much space.
Regards
Phil
First time poster. Long time lurker. I'm hoping to add something useful to the community.
I have had my galaxy note 10.1 GT-N801X since launch but as of recently I have been struggling to find a use for it. A couple years ago it started to feel slow and clunky and then I started having problems with the battery. It has then been sitting in a box refusing to boot up until now. I found a couple places that sold replacement batteries online and the price wasn't too bad. Replacing the battery would have been a viable option however I have issues that the device cannot usually be used while charging and it takes a long time to fully charge. Even when the tablet was new I remember that battery live wasn't that great when using it intensively. For me the novelty of the pen had worn off, portability was less of a concern (As I have my phone for that), and the device feels slow and clunky and the screen is not that great by today's standards.
So I decided to fix it as cheaply as possible and design it to be timer for my home gym where it could also play YouTube videos and stream content from Plex web and Netflix if I wanted to. It would be close to an outlet at all times and I would not like to deal with the hassle of dead batteries and not being able to use it while charging. I would not be using the SPEN and I would not be using it for close up viewing tasks. So i decided to remove the old dead battery and hardwire in a plug.
*** CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK *** I AM NOT AN EXPERT AND I AM GENUINELY SURPRISED SOMETHING SO SIMPLE WORKED ***
1. My first step was to open up the tablet and remove the old battery. It wasn't very hard and their are quite a few guides out there already. My only advice is to be careful when removing the connectors. After a couple years some of them have become quite delicate.
2. My next step was to get all of the parts prepared. I had an old 5V USB charging block that can output up to 2A. I had an old USB to micro USB cable that only had 2 wires on the inside. I cut off the micro usb end and stripped the wire ends. Then I cut the 5 wire battery connector off of the old batter and carefully stripped the end of the wires.
Just a note of caution, the original battery says it is 3.7V with a 4.2V max charging voltage. By using a 5V power block you are going to be overpowering the board. I thought I might immediately blow the board or lead to overheating. So far it is not a problem. At this point I have used it for about 12 hours in total and a max of 4 hours a time. But I don't leave it plugged in unattended just in case.
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3. Then I assembled all of the pieces. The salvaged plug from the old battery has 5 wires. The two red are the positive terminal and the 2 black are the negative terminals. I have no idea what the blue is but that is unimportant for the project. Before soldering I tested the outputs from the USB cable. Red was positive. White was negative. The output was 4.8V. I soldered the red wire from the USB cable to the two red wires of the battery cable harness and then soldered the white wire from the usb cable to the two black wires of the harness. I debated whether or not to attach the blue wire to the ground... but in the end I just left it untouched and everything worked out fine. I then covered the solder points with hot glue so they would not short on anything. It was a little bit too tight for electrical tape.
4. I then plugged the wiring harness back into the tablet and attached the wire to the back of the case with some hot glue so it couldn't be accidentally ripped out. I didn't bother putting the cover on the back of the tablet. I just put on the case and cut a small section out so the cable could pass freely through the side. I then powered it up and installed the newest version of lineageOS and my apps.
Finished project:
Update:
Here is the link to my imgur album imgur.com/a/IAl7n
Just post links without. www or http.
Users can add them