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Bought one of these guys to hardwire a charger in my car:
http://www.mountguys.com/product_p/mfx5v-b-micro.htm
On the charger is specifies 5V 1500mA output. Is that ok? I know it's more than stock, but I thought circuitry can step it down if needed.
Also, I'm thinking I want to hardwire to the always hot lead that goes to the radio memory function. Any chance of current problems? Don't think it will drain my battery if I leave it charging while shopping (or at the bar)
Thanks.
I'm curious why you chose to hardwire it, when the device can only pull 700mA, and these little wonders work perfectly.
Nice! Got one of these also... twice the ports and 5X the price:
http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Powerjolt-Dual-Universal-Micro/dp/B0042B9U8Q/ref=pd_cp_e_2
Yours and mine above specify 1A... this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Charger-Samsu...96/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1318442293&sr=8-15
2.1 A.
I just wanted a cleaner look in a little sports car... the hardwire is going to come out the panel and go straight to a dock. But now I'm worried that 1500 mA could be troublesome?
It won't be troublesome, just useless.
I have a setup for my iPod that utilizes one of what I linked. I've got a USB+RCA-to-dock cable running into my center console, then into a port in there, to some empty space in front of it (under the trim, totally invisible) where my audio guys spliced a new line into the RCA jacks that came from the factory, and split off another power line. The charger's in there, cable connects to the ports... It's nice and clean.
this should be fine. the amperage rating on a charger just tells what it is capable of if requested. it is up to the phone itself to provide the requested amount of current. that is to say if this charger can provide 1500mA, but our phones can only use 750mA, your good. it is provided all the current it needs. now on the other hand, if you were charging some device that could use 2000mA(unheard of) this charger would provide all it could, the device would just charge slower.
the voltage is fine. most chargers are rated at 5v, and should be spot on as long as it is a decent brand from a trusted source. a knock off may be out of spec to what it is rated. that is where you could run in to trouble with frying a phone.
anyway, besides all that, this seems risky. not hardwiring a charger to your car, but leaving it there while you are shopping or in the bar. ever heard that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? id hate to come out of a bar to a broken window and no phone...
i never leave my phone unattended outside of my home.
austin420 said:
some device that could use 2000mA(unheard of)
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iPad, TouchPad, Galaxy Tab 10.1...
Guess I'm a noob.. very detailed answer in FAQ.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=802711&highlight=voltage+amps+charger
Now to find out if those pins are shorted...
I'm going to show you how to make a USB charger where you can bring along with you almost everywhere. There are millions of ways to make one with various brains, ranging from the super cheap 7805s to insanely expensive IC (Integrated Circuit, not Insane C*cks) with awesome mind controlling thingies. I'm only going to show here 2 of the most popular implementations; The 78xx way and the MAX756 (Some TI or LT ICs are also viable alternatives) way. The 78xx way is by far the easiest and cheapest way (I can buy in bulk for a few cents a piece) and coupled with the battery holder and a fancy box to store it, it won't cost you more than $2 (Or $10 if you're buying from Radioshack or can't find the right guy to buy from). However, they drink your battery juice like a dehydrated guy drinks water (really!) and in the long run, it will be more expensive to maintain than the MAX756 method. However if you suck at soldering or are stuck with a lousy soldering iron (like me for now) you're better off using the 78xx method because I've fried more MAX756s with my blunt tip more times than you care to count (At that time, I ordered the wrong part and was stuck with 30 of the super tiny SoC chips which were an extreme pain in the a*se to solder with a fat iron). However, no matter what the cost is, I'm sure you will find it very useful especially in certain situations. Scoff at your friends while you are happily playing GTA3 on your power-hungry tablet while they bang theirs on the table because their battery's flat! Anyway, back to the topic, you can read up on the 78xx series here.
NOTE: THIS IS STILL CONSIDERED WIP WHILE I FINISH THE PROJECT AND UPLOAD THE IMAGES.
78xx METHOD
Ok, first off, you must choose what kind of 78xx to use. If you're powering a typical Android phone or iPhone you'll need 1A of power. You can tell the difference by looking at its size. the 500mA version will be quite tiny like your average sized LED, whereas the 1A version will be significantly bigger. However, if you are gonna be using the charger for a tablet such as the Touchpad or Galaxy Tab, you'll need to bring out the big guns. That's where the 78s05 comes in. It's 2A instead of 1A. However, (based on personal experience) you need more batteries connected in parallel (+ to +, - to -) for more combined amperage otherwise the 78s05 won't be able to power your tablet properly. Furthermore, as it outputs a constant stream of 2A, your typical phone likely won't accept the humungous amounts of current (believe me, I've tried). So you have to decide what you have to power at this stage.
...
...
Once you've decided what 78xx you choose to use, you'll also need:
-USB Female connector (Or MicroUSB Male port if you're feeling lucky). I ripped mine off a USB hub
-1-3 9V adapters (6AA Battery holder will suffice if you're a AA fanatic) as 9V batteries typically have very little power output)
-A fancy box
-Schottky diode model 1N5817 (For the tabloid version use ZHCS2000); a few just to be safe (Read about it here; its optional if you're feeling lucky )
--The function of the Schottky diode here is like a one-way road. The current can only flow in 1 direction and not the other direction to the end of your device.. I've damaged a HD2 with a faulty 7805 when the current went the opposite direction.
--NOTE: DON'T USE TOO MANY OF THOSE DIODES because each one loses a bit of current and soon you'll have not enough power to power your device..
Max756 method
reserved for later
Signing off
reserved for later
Great idea, gonna try it!
From my fingers to your eyez
going to try it thanks for the guide
Done something similiar few weeks ago.
Based on MAX608, it's very easy to solder, as it's huge DIP package.
Complete schematic, it also contains 5.1V Zener Diode (overvoltage protection)
I don't remember Schottky and transistor parameters, these can be taken from datasheet.
Powered from 2 1.5V AA cells works fine. That set of 4 resistors on USB D- and D+ pins is for iPods and iPhones to enable charging at all in 0.5A mode.
Rebellos said:
Done something similiar few weeks ago.
Based on MAX608, it's very easy to solder, as it's huge DIP package.
Complete schematic, it also contains 5.1V Zener Diode (overvoltage protection)
I don't remember Schottky and transistor parameters, these can be taken from datasheet.
Powered from 2 1.5V AA cells works fine. That set of 4 resistors on USB D- and D+ pins is for iPods and iPhones to enable charging at all in 0.5A mode.
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Hmm.. I think some of the diodes might not be necessary.. Or maybe it's just the different ICs. Will post up the schematics when I have the time. Currently busy..
SGA-Sean said:
going to try it thanks for the guide
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Lol.. I haven't even started documenting the project yet..
watching...
go on
arikyeo said:
Hmm.. I think some of the diodes might not be necessary.. Or maybe it's just the different ICs. Will post up the schematics when I have the time. Currently busy..
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Oh, 5.1V Zener is there - its D2 (not necessary, just in case), also LED is just there to signal that's ON.
AFAIM Schottky is higly recommended in datasheet to lower ripple, haven't got oscilloscope yet to see what's the difference.
Be sure you check your datasheets. It only takes a very limited amount of circuitry to control the current throughput of any of the 78X05X models, and they spec them at 5% tolerance levels or less for regulation, so no output circuitry is needed beyond a basic cutoff.
Sorry for my absence the past few days.. Have been extremely busy with personal stuff including arguing with the bespoke tailor that she has misjudged my new $600 suit's khaki colour for the grey I originally wanted.. &#&$***#$
Anyway once I make a trip down to purchase the parts I will finish documenting this. Thanks for your patience..
thanks, it really help me in travel
This is actually very practical and can be done, given you have the right materials, basic electricity knowledge, and a rigged out hobby box to seal the components. I managed to construct a somewhat functional external battery for my iPhone 4 and besides and occasional d/cs, it served it's job.
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Car-bon said:
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
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Click to collapse
I could not find this part number originally, so I pointed out the limiting capabilities of the 7805 series, but anyone that can get one of these and goes the 7805 route anyway is retarted! lol. Unless you just want to do it for fun, which lets face it, is 95% of the reason anyone would do this anyway! replacement batteries are like $5 of amazon for pretty much any device!
may be a better idea for cosidaration
you may use some power transistor with base voltage pulled to 5.1v using a 5.1 v zener diode, and that will give u a 5 v at o/p. and be sure to use a transistor which can handle min of 12v i/p and an o/p current of 2 or more amps. that will reduce the various voltage drops by using lots of components, and also less i/p voltage is required. like 5.5-6v i/p for 5 v o/p.
send from my hd2 @ dorimanx v.3.0.0.rom,with 2way rec kernal.
Car-bon said:
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I've seen something similar around that costs a whopping 15 quid (even though the pound is decreasing in value...........) which translates to about $30 in Singapore dollars. Expensive and impractical for the most part.. If you do breakdown the parts within and the cost I think it'll amount to 10x cheaper..
This is definitely not a bad idea, and certainly easy to make. You can also make it as cheap or expensive as you like, from automated current regulation, battery status LEDs, multiple phones at once, Solar-Power, Nuclear-Reactor power, etc.
But I would recommend 3 1.5 v batteries in a holder, connected to a current regulator (Just in-case. You wouldn't want your precious phone to go up in a poof of smoke now, would you? Five dollars now, or Five hundred dollars later.), then some sort of way to connect to your phone (Either a Female USB connector, or if you want to make it specifically for your phone, get the right type Male USB connector for it).
I would also recommend Heat-Shrink tubing, Solder, and Painters tape (Like electrical tape, except it actually sticks to the wires.) Hot glue might also come in handy.
Has anyone looked at the following product for wireless charging (ala Powermat)?
It doesn't look like it outputs a lot of power, but for overnight / sitting on the work desk type of charging, it may be adequate.
www dot seeedstudio dot com/depot/wireless-power-supply-p-701.html
Would be interesting to see if it could be nicely integrated into a phone cover.
I think I will order one to play with even though I am not a developer or a hacker or anything like that!
I've seen charging coils like that hacked into existing devices. There are also, on the horizon, self contained batteries that have the inductive charging built in - upgrade any device to wireless charging! (any device with enough volume to justify making such a battery, anyway)
This definitely could work quiet well for that sort of application. I think it is a bit larger than you would hope but if you put a usb connector on the end I think it would work really well.
Yap, but there are limitations.
Loss of energy
Less efficiency
Low amp ratings
Interference
Bulky.
Goods are
Wireless
No need of conectors that opens to external world( for devices with built in coils)
No connector problems like damaged port,loose contacts etc.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using xda premium
giritrobbins said:
This definitely could work quiet well for that sort of application. I think it is a bit larger than you would hope but if you put a usb connector on the end I think it would work really well.
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That is the $64 problem! Trying to get USB connectors without the need to butcher an existing USB cable. Ideally, I would like to have a double ended USB connector - a male microUSB to plug into the phone, and a female micro or mini USB on the other end - to allow a USB cable connection between the phone or external charger. I know that I could buy from Digikey a male micro USB connector, and a female connector. But these connectors do not come with casings, so any use of them probably wouldn't look pretty without many hours of thought and effort.
I am assuming (without having this charger in my hands with the specifications) that I would probably need to have one or more diodes in-line with the receiver wires to stop external source current entering the receiver and possibly damaging it.
I haven't read up on Li-Ion cell phone batteries and how to keep them efficient. So I don't know whether these batteries can live long term on low current charging, or whether they would need higher current (as from manufacturer provided chargers) to provide efficient long term output.
Induction charging is being used in several applications already, like WII remotes and such. The problem is, as stated above ^^^^ I'm not really sure how lithium ion batteries stand up so such charging, (almost trickle). I know that the batteries used in Wii remotes are Nickel Hydride though.
DMPinBC said:
That is the $64 problem! Trying to get USB connectors without the need to butcher an existing USB cable. Ideally, I would like to have a double ended USB connector - a male microUSB to plug into the phone, and a female micro or mini USB on the other end - to allow a USB cable connection between the phone or external charger. I know that I could buy from Digikey a male micro USB connector, and a female connector. But these connectors do not come with casings, so any use of them probably wouldn't look pretty without many hours of thought and effort.
I am assuming (without having this charger in my hands with the specifications) that I would probably need to have one or more diodes in-line with the receiver wires to stop external source current entering the receiver and possibly damaging it.
I haven't read up on Li-Ion cell phone batteries and how to keep them efficient. So I don't know whether these batteries can live long term on low current charging, or whether they would need higher current (as from manufacturer provided chargers) to provide efficient long term output.
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Click to collapse
I have heard rumours of the device killing batteries. It would be interesting to see how much of the power actually gets to the unit. The wireless power supply you linked in your OP shows a rating of 300-400 mA. That means the average battery would take 3-4 hours to charge from dead if all that power was indeed making it's way to the battery. Not really a trickle charge is all that power makes it to the battery.
All lithium ion battery assemblies have built in circuitry to prevent overcharging, overheating, and possible explosion/fire. The charge circuitry will turn off when fully charged and there's no penalty for topping off a LIon battery without discharging. Hacking a USB cable isn't all that complicated although may not be pretty depending on how well it's soldered together. There will always be a lump in the middle of the cable where the connections are made but you could use sleeving to hide it.
I tried an OEM non branded wireless charger, and after 6 hours of charging, my iphone's battery only increased around 20%...
Anyone tested this on Desire HD?
Anyone know if this will work/has tested on a Samsung Vibrant? Thanks.
I think this technology is still young, probably in 2/3 years it will be improved in its energy losses...
gebedias said:
I think this technology is still young, probably in 2/3 years it will be improved in its energy losses...
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I don't think time is going to make it more efficient. I think the trend in industry right now (specifically the WPC) is to define a standard, places where you would use wireless power are places where there is plenty of power.
There are a bunch of different companies that make wireless power solutions. I think that the best would be to hack together a QI compliant receiver to the USB port on your phone and then use any QI compliant mat for the transmitter.
I was hoping to start a little project on my N7. I love induction charging and want to set it up on my nexus 7. I was wondering if anyone who has gone through this/know about it/enjoy posting could give me some advice,
Most specifically:
Best dock+backcover combo
Thinnest coil plus chip
Fastest charging
Thanks in advance everybody, can't wait to hear your 2 cents!!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
I haven't actually seen anybody fully implement inductive charging yet. However, this guy started doing inductive charging:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/101739011161245720271/posts/fAse7vGmc3q
Well, one easy way of doing it would be to buy a Qi standard inductive charger and a Qi standard inductive charging case (for example, the Palm Pre Touchstone case) and then pull the internals out of the donor case and fit them inside a Nexus 7 case. There's a small amount of soldering required and perhaps some fiddling with the fit, but the components are relatively simple and lay relatively flat. It wouldn't be too hard at all.
Unfortunately, I believe most current Qi charging solutions are relatively low amperage. This would make for a pretty slow charge on the power hungry Nexus 7. Not too bad it you're using it as an overnight charger, but nowhere near as fast as a 2 amp charger. It's possible that you'll find an inductive charger with a higher current output but if you're looking for that it might be easier to build one from scratch,
I did the Touchstone mod on my GNex. It only puts out .56 Amps. Their are kernels with "quick charge" that would let it ramp up to 1 amp but that was it. I am wanting to play with it too, but I'm more thinking of making a dock with POGO pins instead.
I gotta say, they touchstone is great for my GNex. I have a touchstone mounted in my car, so it holds it in place & charges. Occasionally the charge connection gets interrupted (hit a bump, etc...) and it takes 10 seconds to restart. I added additional stronger magnets to my case, but still I don't think the touchstone magnets would do very well holding a tablet instead.
Also, additional magnets screw with your compass...
the touchstone also has a strange angle for watching movies on the tablet.
also i dont know if you can make the induction work with 2amps like the asus charger. (which would be awsome for superfast charging)
If you used the pogo pins for this it would disable the audio if using the correct kernel (see my post in accessories). You would have to modify the kernel to disable it stopping speaker audio out (should be just commenting a few lines though).
dandu5 said:
the touchstone also has a strange angle for watching movies on the tablet.
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The Touchstone is adjustable to whatever angle you want.
Anyone been able to turn on this phone and run it without a battery with permanent power?
Short answer: not possible.
Longer answer: You would need a pretty hefty engineering brain to figure this out, as the circuitry of the daughter board detects and adjusts the mainboards voltages and such, based on the battery output. When battery output is 0, meaning dead/removed battery, the daughter board doesn't supply voltages to the mainboard.
Now, you could replace the battery with a supercapacitor, but you'd need to have a pretty big one to output the current of a fully charged battery of the 6P - something around the 10kf mark, which IIRC from my university days, is roughly the size of 2 D-cell batteries or so. You'd then need to wire this all in, and even if you made it neat and 3D printed a new back, you went from a slim phone to a small brick. You'd also still need to provide current to charge the super capacitor, which doesn't use normal voltages like the charger and daughterboard can output, so you'd need to add in a voltage regulator board, wire that to the daughterboard, let the DB send current to the mainboard, and since this all outputs a lot of heat, now you run into a serious heating / cooling problem. Add a fan, a larger super capacitor to power said fan, and well, you now have something that looks like a bomb lol.
To touch further on the heat problem - my dash camera has a 10kf SC in it that I wired in instead of the crappy NiCad battery it came with. It was hot enough to keep the snow melted through the windshield on its own with 12v 1a current - roughly 20% of the current the wall charger of the 6p provides. It didn't keep the whole windshield free, rather, a spot large enough to let the camera do its thing without issue.
Thanks Wiltron for your reply. Doesn't seem worth it for me to go through that much trouble to be honest, besides, having something in your car that looks like a bomb these days will get me more attention than I want. I do have to say that I'm able to power the phone with just the charger connected, but up to a certain point, when the cpu spikes while booting it runs short of power and shuts off. Same thing when I'm fully booted into android, I disconnect the battery and it will stay running up to the point where I start some app or even just turn the phone on its side and the phone just goes dark. I'm thinking that the daughterboard does provide power to the motherboard without a battery, but just not enough. Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
cbgreen said:
Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
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It can provide as much current as normal operations permit, however just make sure the cable and charger are official and supported, like Benson certified cables and a decent quality car charger like Anker.
Don't go crazy with the 50amp 120v brick chargers for cars, but don't grab the cheap ass gas station 0.5a 5v 4 for $10 special either
Tronsmart has good ones - I use one personally that has the certified USB C cable built into it.. minimal issues other than the thing does get hot