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[Car Acc] 7" Monitor + TV-Out Cable + Touch Pro - Need Help

Guyz, need ur honest opinion/idea here :help:
i'm thinking to install this 7" monitor in my car (USD110), and plug it with my Touch Pro via TV-Out cable .. so the video appears on the screen and the audio comes out from my car speakers..
The purpose is, so i can use my TP in-car with larger screen and better view
- Garmin Mobile XT GPS navigation (actually this is my main purpose)
- Google Maps Satellite Image n Street navigation
- internet surfing
- watch video
- listen to mp3
- play games (for my kids)
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actually i'm stealing this guy's idea.. looks cool and useful
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjnABOFkJZw
So what do guyz think? is it not worth..? i can see more pro's than cons.. here are some cons that i've thought about:
- TP battery will suffer especially if long distance traveling (even we can charge battery while using the TV-out cable)
- internet surfing only when my car is idling ... how to surf if driving 60mph?! :shock:
There might be more +ve or -ve consequences, so i need ur honest opinions especially those who have tried and used it before.. Thanks in advance

Should work only problem is your Touch Pro is 4:3 and that's a 16:9 screen so you will either have a stretched image or black bars at the sides....
Infact now I see it says only 234 pixes high that's rubbish!

i use my Fuze on my iva-w505 all the time for gps, but i always want to touch the w505's screen to make changes.... then i have to grab the fuze to do it.
for gps... i say get something dedicated, for everything else... the touch pro should be perfect.

jwhitham said:
Should work only problem is your Touch Pro is 4:3 and that's a 16:9 screen so you will either have a stretched image or black bars at the sides....
Infact now I see it says only 234 pixes high that's rubbish!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm noob in pixel resolution etc.. whats the best pixel for 7" screen?

I haven't checked if the TV out image goes off when you hit the power button to turn off the screen on the touch pro, but in my setup in my car i have my TP on a mount with some audio/power cable from ebay going into my center console. From there i wired an extra cig lighter off the cig lighter feed wires and plugged in a car charger to the audio/power cable as well as the audio to my aux on my stereo.
When I'm using it to listen to music if i need to charge it i just turn the screen off and it actually charges while still playing, so maybe it'll work the same way for the set up you're trying to do? This is all assuming the TV out doesn't shut off when you put the phone into standby.
According to that screen its 960x234 whereas the native resolution for TP is 640x480, so you would get a stretched screen, i tried it on my 46" lcd in the living room and it wasn't pretty.

I like using my Fuze connected to my Pioneer AVIC F700bt. Like someone else mentioned you have to tap the small screen on the Fuze to navigate it. There is a thread I found on mp3car.com that linked back to XDA talking about making the Fuze a usb host. If that becomes successful then we might be able to use an external touchscreen to contol our devices.
Until then, I'm gonna order a bluetooth mouse to control the Fuze easily with one hand instead of trying to tap small buttons on its screen with my fat fingers.

ewww
While I like the idea you got going on... you're really not benefiting at all except maybe for GPS use.
The lack of a touch screen on the 7" sucks. If i have to hold the phone in my hand and look AT the phone to maneuver around... I might as well just use the phone with a windshield mount.
Don't they make a 7" touchscreen monitor that you can actually use to control the phone entirely? I remember some guy doing this for the Axim x51v.

Anyone made any progress with this sort of idea?

thedocrn said:
I like using my Fuze connected to my Pioneer AVIC F700bt. Like someone else mentioned you have to tap the small screen on the Fuze to navigate it. There is a thread I found on mp3car.com that linked back to XDA talking about making the Fuze a usb host. If that becomes successful then we might be able to use an external touchscreen to contol our devices.
Until then, I'm gonna order a bluetooth mouse to control the Fuze easily with one hand instead of trying to tap small buttons on its screen with my fat fingers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i just picked up a Fuze to do this exact same thing with my f700bt. Was thinking of pairing the bluetooth mouse(Logitech v270 seems to work with WM phones) and keyboard(think outside stowaway) as well. My main purpose was really to escape the hassle of installing an external carpc. I do a lot of school and business on the road so this fulfills my needs with the mouse and keyboard added. Also, SLINGBOX

I just installed an AVH-P3100DVD with A/V input in my car today. I'd also like to run the TV-Out cable to use GPS on my screen.
I'm actually searching for the thread now on how to make it and I came across this thread.

just hook up the tv out cable to the fuze multi-adapter and the rca's on the other end to the a/v inputs of the headunit

i have a Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD which i then plug my HTC Fuze into. I use the adapter that came with the phone, and then plug a regular av cable into it. In order for the regular AV cable to work you have to plug the Red cable into the Yellow input, the Yellow Cable into the White input, and the White cable into the Red input.
The video quality is fair, the audio is so so. I use it mainly for my GPS and YouTube videos. Its pretty cool. When using the GPS on my Fuze I can have the sound from my phone come out through the speakers, at this point i cant play music though, but my stereo has a set up which i can use my AV input as my background (no audio just video), which then while allow me to play my ipod/radio/cd whatever with my GPS on the background. check ur manual many of Pioneer come with that option.
the sound that comes from the Fuze has a little static and can be quite annoying if the volume is high i dont know if this is because i am using the adapter and a regular cable.
anyone who has the actual Fuze Tv Out cable hear static?
well i hope this helps.
i would recommend it. it looks really cool and it is very useful when traveling.
Nathalie

well you could wait until the touch pro 2 comes out as that has 16:9 800x480 resolution.
for the external touch screen to work you would need 2 things
1st USB touchscreen kit, these are made for netbooks but most of them have Windows CE drivers on them...
2nd is your phone would require USB host mode but currently few of HTC phones have that.

eghoti1 said:
just hook up the tv out cable to the fuze multi-adapter and the rca's on the other end to the a/v inputs of the headunit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know how, I just thought I remembered someone making their own cable a while ago. I have 2 boxes full of A/V cables here but none of them have the correct jacks on both ends.

I have the TP from verizon, and i have slingbox at home, my kids are able to watch Disney in the van while driving around, not a bad picture, very little lag.

...
pcboyy said:
Guyz, need ur honest opinion/idea here :help:
i'm thinking to install this 7" monitor in my car (USD110), and plug it with my Touch Pro via TV-Out cable .. so the video appears on the screen and the audio comes out from my car speakers..
The purpose is, so i can use my TP in-car with larger screen and better view
- Garmin Mobile XT GPS navigation (actually this is my main purpose)
- Google Maps Satellite Image n Street navigation
- internet surfing
- watch video
- listen to mp3
- play games (for my kids)
actually i'm stealing this guy's idea.. looks cool and useful
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjnABOFkJZw
So what do guyz think? is it not worth..? i can see more pro's than cons.. here are some cons that i've thought about:
- TP battery will suffer especially if long distance traveling (even we can charge battery while using the TV-out cable)
- internet surfing only when my car is idling ... how to surf if driving 60mph?! :shock:
There might be more +ve or -ve consequences, so i need ur honest opinions especially those who have tried and used it before.. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yo... That'z Brilliant... I Never Even Thought About Doin That... Might Have To Make Some Stereo Changes In My Car Too!!! Lol I'm Already Blind As A Bat... The Bigger Screen The Better...

It works grate man
I have a Ford Ranger with a kenwood 7in in dash almost just like the one u are looking at and let me tell u garmin works grate. OOOOO by the way all the music u have is gonna sound like u have the band in the back seat with u fliping rocks go for it. P.S. u need to go look at ebay for the av cable that has a charging port u will need it with the gps running. (About 8 bucks U.S.)

3/4g internal modem.

I'm looking to start a thread about turning an a500 into a a501. I've done a teardown of the a500 and it has the capability of potentially being able to support an internal card. It has the space/slot and screw mounts.
Before I start ordering and soldering parts to the circuit board I'd like to get a few facts straight.
1. The firmware (kernel) between the a501 and a500 are the same? I've heard that it is, and that it isn't
2. Drivers- obviously drivers will need to written. No way of getting around that.
3. PCIe Riser extender - As you can see from these pictures, the plastic bracket is missing/not included. You can see on each side there is two holes for mounting the bracket. I'd recommend the extended below, as it will allow me the needed length between the two.
http://www.amazon.com/PCI-Express-Riser-Flexible-Cable/dp/B0054CIL46
The reason I'm picking this is because I can solder this
Here is the empty space:
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}
Now here is the space with a pcie wlan card
You can see from the last picture that there is a space issue that needs to be addressed.
I would need to use riser with an extended back end inorder to align up this the screw mounts.
this picture is just of the screw mounts.
I've seen a few threads now about the idea of this , nothing really taking liftoff, so I thought I'd be the first to start.
Also, is there a command for listing hardware/chips in android , using android terminal emulator. Something like lspci (linux command)
**********************************************************
On to pcie 4g/3g cards.
Here is the 4g card I found:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-5150-...135?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a38d57f7
I'd rather have one with the major cellular provides, but I can't seem to find any. Clear has a basic 200mb (holy hell) for $20. Not bad for 4g coverage.
3g Card
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inspiron-15...118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5645ae677e
This one is cheap, and from verizon.
$30 /2gb plan from verizon.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Let me know what you think. If you have anything to add please feel free to let me know

Make a video when you got it running.

Johnny0906 said:
Make a video when you got it running.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still learning basic programming.I've taken a programming fundamentals and half of programming structures. Teacher was Indian and had us read from a book. If someone wouldbwrite the driver I would jump into it

wow .. really interesting ..
now u know what would be even better ?
to have this module external.
to be able to connect it to the a500.
anyway ..
sure hope u get something..

fxandrei said:
wow .. really interesting ..
now u know what would be even better ?
to have this module external.
to be able to connect it to the a500.
anyway ..
sure hope u get something..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree!! Your average XDA user is open minded when it comes to flashing roms, kernels and different types of software mods but they aren't that open minded to cracking their device open and screwing around with things internally. A usb type of module would be great!! I KNOW you're properly thinking like "WOW, do you want it to clean your house too" BUT T'll put my wallet where my mouth is and will donate 75 dollars if you can get this thing working via usb or provide some sort of brick-proof way of doing this.
I'm really excited to the idea of possibly having 4G on this tablet!!
Good Luck!!
Sent from inside my house using XDA Premium

It looks like its missing one of these..
Mouser is a great source for parts like this. It will involve soldering a connector and possibly writing a driver.
Once you find out the parts requirement, any electronics repair shop can handle it.
http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/Memory-Card-Connectors/_/N-72bz7/
I can't help anymore then this, I don't own one of these devices. However, kernel=drivers. You've got two issues. Kernel support and Hardware. Once you've got the physical connection done, search for some linux devices which uses similar hardware and grab the kernel modules built for your kernel. If you're lucky, you can just insmod them into the device. If you're not lucky, you'll need to build from source.

Would a kernel dump or source from an A501 do the trick? I don't have one, just throwing around ideas...

A little background: I'm an electronic engineer with some experience of teardown work.
I agree with Adam that you need a socket rather than trying to solder a flexy on.
Do you have any teardown information on the A501, or would someone with an A501 be willing to get photographs. I think the key hardware things to find out are 1) what socket is used for the card and 2) what card is used.
If you get a 3g card with the same chipset on, then wouldn't it be as simple as hacking in A501 firmware for the driver?

I-S said:
A little background: I'm an electronic engineer with some experience of teardown work.
I agree with Adam that you need a socket rather than trying to solder a flexy on.
Do you have any teardown information on the A501, or would someone with an A501 be willing to get photographs. I think the key hardware things to find out are 1) what socket is used for the card and 2) what card is used.
If you get a 3g card with the same chipset on, then wouldn't it be as simple as hacking in A501 firmware for the driver?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That one itself would be the ideal. But that makes sense.

The story doesn't end at installing the card mount, but also needs other components to work. Instead you can tear down a 2 port USB hub, tear down your 3G modem and Stick it in an empty place do some soldering so that the end result should be as follows........
1. The socket which generates USB inside the case, should be fed to the USB hub,
2. One output of the hub should go to the USB dongle we earlier ripped out
3. The other output of the hub should be the cable that extends to the outside USB port.. after all we need this USB also for external USB for attaching keyboards, flash drives etc..
I hope I gave a unique idea here

You need to see a real 3g version to know if other thing missing like transistor on board neer pci card, or usb its more sure
Look for version 3g before investigate pciMe 3g and pciMe connector also sim connector of course
---------- Post added at 11:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 AM ----------
superhotluv said:
The story doesn't end at installing the card mount, but also needs other components to work. Instead you can tear down a 2 port USB hub, tear down your 3G modem and Stick it in an empty place do some soldering so that the end result should be as follows........
1. The socket which generates USB inside the case, should be fed to the USB hub,
2. One output of the hub should go to the USB dongle we earlier ripped out
3. The other output of the hub should be the cable that extends to the outside USB port.. after all we need this USB also for external USB for attaching keyboards, flash drives etc..
I hope I gave a unique idea here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes this one what i do it cause you can found mini usb 3g and open it to integrated on board

This was attempted once before and was proven that the boards of the A500 and A501 have differences! Somewhere here in the forum was a thread and there were diagrams and photos of the tho devices! There are many missing components on the A500 that will have to be mounted and it will surely be cheaper (better working) to sell the A500 and get an A501 if you so much desire 3G!

superhotluv said:
The story doesn't end at installing the card mount, but also needs other components to work. Instead you can tear down a 2 port USB hub, tear down your 3G modem and Stick it in an empty place do some soldering so that the end result should be as follows........
1. The socket which generates USB inside the case, should be fed to the USB hub,
2. One output of the hub should go to the USB dongle we earlier ripped out
3. The other output of the hub should be the cable that extends to the outside USB port.. after all we need this USB also for external USB for attaching keyboards, flash drives etc..
I hope I gave a unique idea here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is nice idea, but you should know that the hub as well as the dongle need power. If the USB output on the device itself is not giving enough power for both of them then it will not work or not work reliably.
Of course the battery will also be drained much faster as all the power saving measures do not affect the hub and the dongle.
And as for the pci connector: maybe you could compare the A500 with the A501 model and see if there are other parts missing. Usually not only the connector is left out but also some other parts on the board itself. So it may be much more soldering and work as you originally though of.

well that's depressing to know. that brscket in the fifth post was what I'm looking for.
can someone post a link to that thread with the pictures if the two teardowns?

BlackICE said:
It is nice idea, but you should know that the hub as well as the dongle need power. If the USB output on the device itself is not giving enough power for both of them then it will not work or not work reliably.
Of course the battery will also be drained much faster as all the power saving measures do not affect the hub and the dongle.
And as for the pci connector: maybe you could compare the A500 with the A501 model and see if there are other parts missing. Usually not only the connector is left out but also some other parts on the board itself. So it may be much more soldering and work as you originally though of.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Goood you understood what I meant with. Definitely the USB out port of the Tablet can handle both. you should buy a two port low power hub and try on
I also did the analysis of power usage, and found that the power used by the hub is really miniscule, and can be used with ease. You must appreciate that the Max power is drawn by the screen rather than the other hardware components, and inevitably the power consumption will increase once you add a 3G module in the tablet, as in A501. So the total power consumption is well within the limits.
I did the practical experiment of leaving the data ON on the tablet, overnight, and I find no extra power usage than without, in the sleep mode.
The only challenge in both the cases is that you have to change the Rom. Either the stock 501 Rom or one of the marvellous custom Roms. I am personally using Virtuous Galaxy 1.0.5 , with an overclock and code for 3G modem, that works seamless.
Once I do this activity I would post a video , or at least a set of pictures.

Sorry i dont know much about these devices but I am not sure what usb has to do with it??? looks like a mini pci e slot to me... (correct me if i am wrong) it cant harm to try soldering the points together.. swap the kernel from the 501 over as long as its got the same build and you have r/w to the system partition and see what happens...

anarchyuk said:
Sorry i dont know much about these devices but I am not sure what usb has to do with it??? looks like a mini pci e slot to me... (correct me if i am wrong) it cant harm to try soldering the points together.. swap the kernel from the 501 over as long as its got the same build and you have r/w to the system partition and see what happens...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you read all posts? I don't think so.
it does not harm to solder a socket there but it will not work as there are for sure other components for that pcie slot missing.
As for the USB solution read the earlier posts as this is a solution, which would work.

Another type of wimax card for clear is the one inside their Rover puck wifi point. no one talks about it or i have seen a picture online but i got one that just works fine, its a half size pci-e mini card so you would have more space to move it around and the antennas come with it, just find one with broken usb port and open it to get the card.
As for driver info i will post with pic of card, it uses the same driver as their clear 4g stick,(grey and black color)

I know it's a bit 'off topic', but.. Since the Iconia has this 'slot', do you think it would be possible with the xoom too??
Check this out: http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/5oVhXNLhi3U1AZRy.huge
Step 8 from iFixit --> At first glance, this appears to be a Wi-Fi board, but wait: there are no chips on it! It appears to be just a mini-PCI interconnect board for the antennas. This board is probably just a place holder for when the 4G upgrade becomes available.
Back on topic:
The Iconia A501 has the Qualcomm MDM6600 chip on one of it's boards or it's just a modem? I ask that because by seeing the Xoom 3G teardown we find the said chip. It seems that the chip is missing on the Xoom WiFi according to some here: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/45910/Wifi+Only+Xoom+upgradable+to+4G+LTE
So, if you are missing some key parts of the system, I don't think it would be possible to just add a modem to the list of bills to make it 3G/4G unless it's just a software lock?

Uhuhu said:
I know it's a bit 'off topic', but.. Since the Iconia has this 'slot', do you think it would be possible with the xoom too??
Check this out: http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/5oVhXNLhi3U1AZRy.huge
Step 8 from iFixit --> At first glance, this appears to be a Wi-Fi board, but wait: there are no chips on it! It appears to be just a mini-PCI interconnect board for the antennas. This board is probably just a place holder for when the 4G upgrade becomes available.
Back on topic:
The Iconia A501 has the Qualcomm MDM6600 chip on one of it's boards or it's just a modem? I ask that because by seeing the Xoom 3G teardown we find the said chip. It seems that the chip is missing on the Xoom WiFi according to some here: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/45910/Wifi+Only+Xoom+upgradable+to+4G+LTE
So, if you are missing some key parts of the system, I don't think it would be possible to just add a modem to the list of bills to make it 3G/4G unless it's just a software lock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe there is the empty space on other tablets with the same chipset too
http://pdadb.net/index.php?m=pdamaster&posted=1&cpu=a2250nvt
So you can (if it works) pimp every moto or acer tab to 4g

Thinking of performing a hardware mod for USB hosted microsd/bluetooth(Kindle Fire)

Ok, so i'm ordering a replacement digitizer and I figure this would be a good time to try this out.
As you all know, we Kindle Fire owners have neither expandable storage or bluetooth. Hashcode's new 3.0 kernel has the proper kernel modules/support for USB hosting. Instead of having to plug things in every time I need/want extra storage I figure that i'll try and hook up the stuff inside.
So here's what I figure i'll do when I get all the materials:
I already have a mini bluetooth USB dongle that i've disassembled.
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"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
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"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
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And i'll be getting a mini USB microsd adapter that I can tear apart down to the same type of thing as the bluetooth dongle.
Now, the easy part is finding space to put them, there are a few gaps/spaces that I found for the bluetooth dongle, and placing the microsd adapter should be just as easy.
The hard part is getting the wiring all wired up on the inside, and this is where I need advice/input. Trying to solder the wires to the pins on the charge/USB port would be too hard and risky since they're so close.
I took apart a mini-b USB cable to use the pins to try and hook them up like that some way, but I don't have everything I need yet, so it's just a thought.
Ideas, advice, thoughts and/or comments?
Also, I will be documenting what i'm doing so that I can post a tutorial if I succeed.
I've also posted this in the Kindle Fire general forums. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=25212300

Main problem with the SD adapter is that many USB SD readers behave badly if you insert the SD when the adapter is live - you need to insert the SD THEN plug the reader into a PC.

Entropy512 said:
Main problem with the SD adapter is that many USB SD readers behave badly if you insert the SD when the adapter is live - you need to insert the SD THEN plug the reader into a PC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm, thanks for bringing that up, I didn't think of that. I'll have to see about putting a small switch in somewhere if I run into that issue.

Have you looked for another USB pinout on the board?
There might be one, if you can post an hi-res picture of the PCB I can try to find something useful

AraKs said:
Have you looked for another USB pinout on the board?
There might be one, if you can post an hi-res picture of the PCB I can try to find something useful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was going to try and do that myself, but I couldn't find anything. Right now I ended up scraping off some of the black plastic around the pins at the point that they're going up and i'm trying to solder them alternating the top and bottom.
If you can find other places though that would be great. It might help me out, and it would def help others out if I succeed and write a tutorial.
Here are some hi-res shots from ifixit, unfortunately my real camera has a broken lens at the moment.
http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/BWbx2gTOKoo2SInC.huge
http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/SejZs5a65UTRcAYv.huge

There's something I don't understand here; won't doing this render the USB port unusable? Don't you need a hub if connecting more than one USB device? Can the USB port provide enough power for these additional devices?
Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2

scidon37 said:
There's something I don't understand here; won't doing this render the USB port unusable? Don't you need a hub if connecting more than one USB device? Can the USB port provide enough power for these additional devices?
Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need the USB hub for power from what I understand. The microsd adapter doesn't require any power and i'm not sure how much the bluetooth takes, but since the other takes none it might work out. If they don't work together then it doesn't really matter to me cause I don't need bluetooth.
Also, about it making the USB port unusable, yes and no. If you look at this pinout diagram here http://www.kineteka.com/microusb-b.aspx you'll see that there are 5 pins. On a USB cable only 4 are used. On a USB otg cable pins 4 and 5 ar econnected telling the device that it's a host and not a slave. When pins 4 and 5 are connected are connected USB will not work at all(So no adb or file transfers, etc.) because the cable is being told it's a host device. Once those two wires are separated then USB will work again because it will see itself as a slave device.

I searched info trought the TI OMAP 4430 documentation about the USB implementation.
(i have to "hide" the link or i won't be able to post!)
Here you can find a block diagram of a reference USB implementation:
h_t_t_p://w!w!w.ti.com/pdfs /wtbu/OMAP4430_ES2.x_DM_Public_Book_V_D .pdf
Section
A.4.4.2 USBA0 PHY Implementation Example
Also, Section
2.1 Terminal Assignments
Shows the pinout of the processor
Table
Table 2-1. Ball Characteristics
Shows the chip connections
The document lists also USB0, USB1 and USB2 but i can only see ball pinouts for "usba0_*" and anything like "usba1_*" or "usba2_*".
So i think that there's only one USB connection and you'll have to solder a USB HUB somewhere between the CPU and the USB connector.

AraKs said:
I searched info trought the TI OMAP 4430 documentation about the USB implementation.
(i have to "hide" the link or i won't be able to post!)
Here you can find a block diagram of a reference USB implementation:
h_t_t_p://w!w!w.ti.com/pdfs /wtbu/OMAP4430_ES2.x_DM_Public_Book_V_D .pdf
Section
A.4.4.2 USBA0 PHY Implementation Example
Also, Section
2.1 Terminal Assignments
Shows the pinout of the processor
Table
Table 2-1. Ball Characteristics
Shows the chip connections
The document lists also USB0, USB1 and USB2 but i can only see ball pinouts for "usba0_*" and anything like "usba1_*" or "usba2_*".
So i think that there's only one USB connection and you'll have to solder a USB HUB somewhere between the CPU and the USB connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the help, but how am I going to solder directly to the processor?
And if I could get the correct pins anyways there would be no need to use USB I could just hook the microsd up directly since the 4430 already has those.
If there was a data sheet somewhere out there for this specific board something like what you're suggesting might be possible, but it's not really the way it is now.
And i've never used USB host capabilities before, but from the videos i've watched people on other devices don't use a hub unless they hook up more than one device.

I see. You are right!
Anyway, i came up with another solution for the bluetooth connectivity: it requires a bit of soldering and a couple of kernel modules (or a custom-built kernel).
You can solder some wires from the serial port of the kindle fire:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1525439
to a UART bluetooth module:
h_ttp://w_w.tdvdesign(dot)com/BluetoothModule/
Then write a script the brings up the bluetooth interface at boot.
In Linux should be feasible, in Android i don't know... maybe there's a praticular framework that needs specific drivers...
---------- Post added at 04:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------
Enable kernel bluetooth+UART HCI:
ht_tp://docs.blackfin.uclinux(dot)org/doku.php?id=bluetooth_over_uart

AraKs said:
I see. You are right!
Anyway, i came up with another solution for the bluetooth connectivity: it requires a bit of soldering and a couple of kernel modules (or a custom-built kernel).
You can solder some wires from the serial port of the kindle fire:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1525439
to a UART bluetooth module:
h_ttp://w_w.tdvdesign(dot)com/BluetoothModule/
Then write a script the brings up the bluetooth interface at boot.
In Linux should be feasible, in Android i don't know... maybe there's a praticular framework that needs specific drivers...
---------- Post added at 04:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------
Enable kernel bluetooth+UART HCI:
ht_tp://docs.blackfin.uclinux(dot)org/doku.php?id=bluetooth_over_uart
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
**Disregard**This could help with bluetooth if I can't get USB host to work, but that still leaves no solution for the sdcard, which is my primary concern. I've actually gotten all the wires soldered onto the correct pins on the usb port, but I can't get USB host to work for any device, with or without the correct modules.**Disregard**
You got me thinking though, I could probably add a UART sdcard and GPS module on like that. Awesomeness, thanks for the idea. I'll try that out if I can't get USB host to work.

aaricchavez said:
You got me thinking though, I could probably add a UART sdcard and GPS module on like that. Awesomeness, thanks for the idea. I'll try that out if I can't get USB host to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've also seen a lot of hardware mods that connected sdcards to gpio lines. That could be an option too.
For the sdcard over UART it's possible, but i'm concerned about the performances...
At 115200bps baud rate you get 14.0625KBps!!!

AraKs said:
I've also seen a lot of hardware mods that connected sdcards to gpio lines. That could be an option too.
For the sdcard over UART it's possible, but i'm concerned about the performances...
At 115200bps baud rate you get 14.0625KBps!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True, true. You seem to have more experience then I do at this. I'll prob buy a GPS UART module and do that. I have the wires soldered onto the USB pins on my Kindle, but I haven't had time to do anything more then that yet.

Thank you
A GPS module will be very useful.
A 7" tab it's portable enough to be carried around and used with a simple car mount...
I'll look for the needed kernel modules asap
Sent from my Nexus S using XDA

This is interesting:
ht__tp://wiki_openpilot_org/plugins/viewsource/viewpagesrc.action?pageId=950326

BUMP

webstas said:
BUMP
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm just waiting for some stuff I need that I ordered offa ebay. The digitizer should be here tomorrow and the other stuff some time this week. I'll update when I get the stuff and start working on it again.

I don't really understand why using the usb-port should be a Problem. Just solder your what-ever-you-want-device to the original usb pinout, it's big enough. Solder a rly small switch (taken from an old mobile Phone for example) between pin 4 and 5 to change host and normal mode. Finally, if u need more power there of course is a battery inside the Kindle, get it from there
I'll receive my Kindle in a few days i hope (u can't buy it regularly in germany...), will play a bit with this stuff

Deehee3 said:
I don't really understand why using the usb-port should be a Problem. Just solder your what-ever-you-want-device to the original usb pinout, it's big enough. Solder a rly small switch (taken from an old mobile Phone for example) between pin 4 and 5 to change host and normal mode. Finally, if u need more power there of course is a battery inside the Kindle, get it from there
I'll receive my Kindle in a few days i hope (u can't buy it regularly in germany...), will play a bit with this stuff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've already got the wires soldered to the pins, I just wasn't able to get USB host working. And there's no room for a switch right on the pins, but I thought of a good solution. Reed switches!
Other thread was created here, just want to keep all the threads up to date: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1632277
aaricchavez said:
The UART modules are only an idea, the main problem with going that direction instead of USB host is the drivers the modules would need(They all usually come with generic ones, but they would need to be customized for Android). I have very limited code/coding knowledge so I would need alot of help or soeone to do that part completely. I was going to pm Hashcode for help if I decided to try out the UART modules. Also, i'm unsure if more than one module can be used at the same time.
Like I just posted in the thread i'm still waiting on some stuff to arrive to actually get started on the USB host attempt. I have the wires soldered to the USB/Charge port pins, but since I don't have the microsd adapter or any more spare cords to rip apart I can't go further. I ordered about 10 different mini microsd adapters to take apart and see which works out the best.
Other people have USB host working, so shouldn't be difficult. I've just never used USB host before so i'm not real sure of what to expect.
The only downside is that there needs to be a switch of some sort somewhere to disable USB host so that adb/storage will work. I'm trying to think of something a little more elegant that having a huge hole in the case with a switch protruding out of the side. I'm going to go searching for some solutions and a super small switch.
All the UART GPS modules I found when searching "uart gps module" on Google are mostly from India and are between $30-50ish, the receivers look to be about the size of a quarter.
*http://robokits.co.in/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=289
*http://robosapiensindia.com/robomar...n=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64&vmcchk=1&Itemid=64
*http://robosapiensindia.com/robosap...ategory_id=27&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64
I decided to look on Sparkfun and adafruit and i'm glad I did, it looks like they both have some modules, but I haven't looked around and dug through them yet.
*http://www.sparkfun.com/categories/4
*http://www.adafruit.com/category/35_58
All the optimism aside i'm not all too sure that we could get the GPS UART module to work. From what I see (First picture: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1471813) the UART output that Hashcode put into use only has two GNDs a TX and RX. The modules that I found all look like they need 8 connections. Adafruit has a nice pic of the connections labeled here: http://www.adafruit.com/products/746
If you're talking about microsd UART modules, as mentioned in the thread I created, someone made the point that it wouldn't make much sense because speeds would be way too low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aaricchavez said:
I hate to double post, but I found the perfect solution for the switch. A reed switch or two plus a small magnet will work wonders
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8642
Edit: Here are the switches that I am buying, they're the cheapest spdt reed switches I could find: http://www.newark.com/hamlin/mdrr-dt-15-20-f/switch-reed-spdt-co-1-5a-175vdc/dp/24C6463
This will allow USB host to be activated constantly and then deactivated easily with a neodymium magnet to use adb, USB storage and whatnot.
I'm pleased that I found such an elegant solution, no need to mess up the housing to put in a switch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Just curious about the status of your progress.....

HD2 in car project - need your ideas guys..

So, as the title says, i´m thinking in giving a new life to one of my HD2's, I have 3 of them and they are almost stored in a shelf.
The idea is to get this phone as a carputer, we know HD2 is still running strong thanks to the wonderfull devs here, so I think it will be a great to have it having a new life.
The basic needs will be gps, music, fm radio, obd tool ( with torque ) and phone, and if you have more ideas i will appreciate the input.
The car is vw passat 1.8T, so i´m looking for a solution that doesn´t involve using a windshield mount as it is a little far from reach for my taste, also would like to protect it from heat in summer days, so probably i will go for a vent type mounting.
These are the things I need to decide:
What rom to use - needs to work well with navigation, bluetooth calls being able to recieve calls while with navigation on without closing it due to ram starvation;
What mount to use - this one the more important, use one mount or design and build a something to dock it when in car;
what connections to put - use the 3.5 mm jack for audio or use bluetooth ( in the last case I have to buy a bluetooth reciever cause my stereo doesn´t have bluetooth )
usb otg with powered hub - yes or no
To design something specificly for HD2 or something that in the future can be used for other phones/tablets
I will add some pictures later and more stuff coming as the project develops,
Thanks
Hugo

Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html

this would be really cool

Robbie P said:
Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Robbie, actually I didn't know that the android USB otg didn't charge, thank you to point it out.
For OBD I have vagcom for windows PC, so the use in android will be light so I was planning to use a cheap Bluetooth adapter with torque app.
Thank you mate
Sent from my PIXELDROID HD2 using xda premium

Recently I also thought about using my HD2 for car. I am not very experienced in ROM-software, but have some ideas of hardware, esp. car handling. After surfing an Internet I have found out that original car kit price is still space shuttle level. But regular universal holders look not eough safely for me. I guess it is reasonable to buy regular battery lid for HD2( pretty cheap in the Amazon f.e.), than fix it to any PDA-Navigator holder instead of universal clamps by hidden-head screws. If you are good skilful hand maker, you can install in this lid 3 additional contacts for battery charger. But you will need proper manual for cirquit and schematics or charger specs, because this contacts connected bypass of biult in battery controller.

I agree about possibly using those 3 contacts under the battery lid for charging, and therefore using the usb port for communications only, it would be worth researching. But i never did like the idea of the original (space shuttle) car dock replacing the back cover. It did not seem secure enough and the phone could possibly be knocked off. You could strengthen a cheap universal one by putting screws into the ball joint after getting it in the right position.

Now, I am thinking about another idea. If you already used H\2 as a car GPS you definitely got the situation with overheated battery (indicates by blinking red-green LED). This case a battery controller interrupts charging and generally it's not good for the device. Especially because this season is coming. I will try to use regular cheap portable case with charger (see pic.)
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. I am going to remove battery and parts form there and place thin small cooler (from a video card or laptop) to provide good cooling. Also this case is more capable for mounting in the regular holder and can be used for the charging of the phone. It is much better than connect USB cable directly to the device. I will report my progress here.

Nice ideas flowing guys..using the contacts to charging the battery seems a great idea, I can research on this, I have some experience in electronics, also I have here a hd2 for spares that I can use to test, I will do it this week.
Regarding the place I still haven't decided if I should use a car mount or no, I only use vent mounts because I can cool it in summer, also it's closer compared to the windshield mounts.
I can try to build a special cradle for it, but I will think in it later.
I'm using clingo vent mount and its decent ,but for this I think It would be better something like the brodit mount which is a tight solution, but not integrated as I wish, so I think I will have to build a built in cradle with charging + usb otg, the direct charging of battery might be a good solution.
For the phone calls, I searched for an app that would allow to forward the call from my S3 to the HD2 via Bluetooth when I'm in the car,but there isn't such a thing, I don't have Bluetooth in my car stereo,I could buy a Bluetooth reciever and connect it to the aux, but the idea was to be able to use only the HD2 that I will leave in the car sometimes to control everything, the solution for this so far is gmate, I use it in the S3 and it works well with the HD2 also, I could set a tasker profile to disconnect the gmate from S3 and connect it to HD2 using the Bluetooth near function, then HD2 would control the phone calls.. lets see how it goes..

Asus T100 hardware tear down

Since I can't post anywhere else for some reason, here goes my hardware tear down for the Asus T100 (T100TA for experts ):
Visible chips on the T100TA mainboard Rev 2.0:
Amtel MXT1664TXES-C2U 1330B TW QLG9F (Touchscreen controls)
Broadcom BCM43241SFKFFBG TN1322 P24 294688 P3T (WiFi)
Phison PS2251-68-5 UO1329C D75J0.11AA (USB3.0 controller)
Realtek ALC5642 D2L87HI GD13F (Audio)
Winbond 250(Q)64FW1G 1329 6236 QP30003 (BIOS/UEFI)
Intel Q326A657 SR1M5 02962 '12 (the main cpu Z3740)
M F20 P02 CFQ0589 (No idea)
ITE IT8568VG 1331-AXO ZC0P1A (No idea)
SANDISK 9.15 XC4*00 SanDisk32G (The eMMC storage unit, 32GB version)
Camera module:
HannStar J 94V-0 E89382 1335 MV-4
Unnused connector J601 can be found on the camera module. Seems to be an USB connector.
Pictures of the hardware/inside: [NOT ALLOWED]
Got the hi-res versions stored locally, can't find a good place that doesn't rape the resolution / jpeg compression rate. Now, I was thinking the Winbond chip is most likely the PLL, isn't it? Should open the doors for some FSB tweaking. Another thing I couldn't find was the recovery USB storage... 7GB according to the hardware manager of Windows 8.1 . Unfortunately it uses 'current read-only state: true' which makes it impossible to use it as extra storage (try it with diskpart for yourselves).
Also, for other Dutch users, this is my main Dutch thread on Tweakers: [NOT ALLOWED].
If people can help out with identifying the chips / giving additional information it would be greatly appreciated

thanks for the teardown...
un-hidden links:
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1567250/2
http://imgur.com/a/u6Uni
wouldn't mind rehosting the higher-quality image links .. feel free to PM to me
KoeWaffle said:
Amtel MXT1664TXES-C2U 1330B TW QLG9F <- touchscreen controller
Broadcom BCM43241SFKFFBG TN1322 P24 294688 P3T (WiFi) <- mounted via SDIO, is linux-kernel supported
Phison PS2251-68-5 UO1329C D75J0.11AA (No idea) <- USB 3.0 to flash microcontroller... probably for eMMC
Realtek ALC5642 D2L87HI GD13F (Audio)
Winbond 250(Q)64FW1G 1329 6236 QP30003 (PLL?)
Intel Q326A657 SR1M5 02962 '12 (the main cpu Z3740)
M F20 P02 CFQ0589 (No idea)
ITE IT8568VG 1331-AXO ZC0P1A (No idea)
SANDISK 9.15 XC4*00 SanDisk32G (The eMMC storage unit, 32GB version)
Camera module:
HannStar J 94V-0 E89382 1335 MV-4 <- think it's a Sony IMX 175 senor. need to check. maybe a Aptina mt9m114 instead
Unnused connector J601 can be found on the camera module. Seems to be an USB connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cm3218x capella micro light sensor
unused connector would be nice. I have a small microSDXC USB reader, looking through your pics to see if there's any space to fit it there
would like to see the battery model number. C12N1320 ?

paperWastage said:
would like to see the battery model number. C12N1320 ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
C12N1320 Yes, or CL12NL320, but I am pretty sure they would use "L" instead of "l" then. As you probably have seen, it has two batteries connected to each other. How exactly I don't know, didn't want to remove the black cover sticker. :silly:

KoeWaffle said:
C12N1320 Yes, or CL12NL320, but I am pretty sure they would use "L" instead of "l" then. As you probably have seen, it has two batteries connected to each other. How exactly I don't know, didn't want to remove the black cover sticker. :silly:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the info
how did you take apart the tablet? guitar pick around the screen? do I see some free space on the bottom right corner?
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Is the RAM socketed or is it non-removable as my only issue is the 2Gb (1.89Gb usable) RAM available.

Starfury said:
Is the RAM socketed or is it non-removable as my only issue is the 2Gb (1.89Gb usable) RAM available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look at the pics, there's no sockets.

paperWastage said:
How did you take apart the tablet? guitar pick around the screen? do I see some free space on the bottom right corner?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used some tools that were leftovers of my HTC Leo / HD2 days. Pretty much a guitar pick, but it might be a little thinner. I recommend starting on top, it goes the easiest loose there. The screen side is hooked to the backside, so best to pull the backplate a little outwards when removing, it will snap the hooks loose. For the dock, I will upload hires pictures soon of its contents, I did pull it apart before but my phone doesn't make great photos: imgur dot com slash a slash NQdTb http://imgur.com/a/NQdTb

SANDISK parts
Hi, I would like to know the appropriate part no. of Sandisk 32G. Could you pls see and let me know it ?
I may help you to identify of the specification in detail.
Thanks, Ricky:laugh:

Ricky0817 said:
Hi, I would like to know the appropriate part no. of Sandisk 32G. Could you pls see and let me know it ?
I may help you to identify of the specification in detail.
Thanks, Ricky:laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd like to know this too if anyone knows. Is it soldered into the board or is it a microSD?

Its a Sandisk SEM64G or 32G if you have the 32gb. Just reflashed mine from the stock bios to 220 and now everything is working great and no more bsod while using adobe flash or gaming in d3d. Thanks for those pictures they have saved me the hassle of looking to see if a ram upgrade to 4gb is possible and its not. No matter around october 2014 there should be something better to trade up to with hopefully 4gb and 128gb ssd minimum.

gallahad2000 said:
Take a look at the pics, there's no sockets.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty sure the t100 uses the version of the processor which is limited to 2GB of RAM

KoeWaffle said:
. Another thing I couldn't find was the recovery USB storage... 7GB according to the hardware manager of Windows 8.1 . Unfortunately it uses 'current read-only state: true' which makes it impossible to use it as extra storage
If people can help out with identifying the chips / giving additional information it would be greatly appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for your information.I think that recovery USB storage is located here (marked on the attached picture). Can you please make the pictures of this area and connector J601 with higher resolution
Phison PS2251-68-5 is a controller usb 2.0 is used in flash drives. i think it is a controller for recovery USB storage

KoeWaffle said:
I used some tools that were leftovers of my HTC Leo / HD2 days. Pretty much a guitar pick, but it might be a little thinner. I recommend starting on top, it goes the easiest loose there. The screen side is hooked to the backside, so best to pull the backplate a little outwards when removing, it will snap the hooks loose. For the dock, I will upload hires pictures soon of its contents, I did pull it apart before but my phone doesn't make great photos: imgur dot com slash a slash NQdTb http://imgur.com/a/NQdTb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems there is a non USA model of this T100TA that has a 500GB hard drive inside the dock. Would a mod be possible for the USA version?

snoozii said:
It seems there is a non USA model of this T100TA that has a 500GB hard drive inside the dock. Would a mod be possible for the USA version?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think so. They could have soldered it to the board though... I haven't seen a teardown of a 500GB model, would love to see what is inside too! Maybe it can even help us Europeans to mod ours to have the same capabilities :good:.

Anyone know where the WiFi antenna is?
I'm really impressed with how well this tablet hold on to my WiFi signal across the road. I have a Yagi and a panel antenna beaming through tree branches, a balcony and a brick wall. Despite all this it doesn't seem to struggle to hold on any worse than my laptop did which had two antenna. You would think this low power chip would perform much much worse.
Even speed wise considering this doesn't have MIMO so the link speed is down from 150Mbit to 64Mbit, real-world speed is not as much of a reduction as I thought it might be when I realised it didn't do MIMO.
I have even seen this thing get 20Mbit across the road where my laptop used to peak around 30Mbit, although on average I get nearer 5Mbit now whereas the laptop did 10-20Mbit more frequently.
I did try an external mini USB adapter on the T100, didn't work any better even though THAT was linked at 150Mbit and the built-in only does 64MBit.
As for the HDD model, I read on another forum that its definitely in the keyboard and a different board to the normal one. Its interesting though, makes you wonder if it uses a hub or are there actually spare connectors on the dock?
What I personally would like is a dock adapter you can use while still in tablet mode that just adds the USB 3.0 port. If we are REALLY lucky maybe someone will trace the dock connector?

Any hint of a connector for the HD in the dock?
Thanks for the teardown info. As far as I've found these are the only ones on the web so far.
Its hard for me to see from the pictures. Did you see any hint of what/where the HD would connect in the dock?
Thanks,
Eric

sarman_1998 said:
Thanks for the teardown info. As far as I've found these are the only ones on the web so far.
Its hard for me to see from the pictures. Did you see any hint of what/where the HD would connect in the dock?
Thanks,
Eric
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The HDD dock keyboard has a different PCB to the normal keyboard. Below is the normal one taken from http://www.transformerforums.com/forum/asus-transformer-book-t100/39507-inside-t100-base.html:
What I'm curious about is if the whole dock runs off a single USB 3.0 port or does the dock connector have several ports?
It would seem unlikely that its run off a hub as many USB 3.0 devices have issues if not run directly from a native port and I notice my USB 3.0 HDD works fine.

Alex Atkin UK said:
The HDD dock keyboard has a different PCB to the normal keyboard. Below is the normal one taken from http://www.transformerforums.com/forum/asus-transformer-book-t100/39507-inside-t100-base.html:
...
What I'm curious about is if the whole dock runs off a single USB 3.0 port or does the dock connector have several ports?
It would seem unlikely that its run off a hub as many USB 3.0 devices have issues if not run directly from a native port and I notice my USB 3.0 HDD works fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I took a look on mine and windows doesn’t show any USB 3 hub between my USB 3 thumb drive and the Root Hub, so I’d say there isn’t a hub there. I also did a little digging to make sure there wasn’t an embedded hub in there which might show up differently. I looked at the xHCI extended capability values and the host controller is advertising 6 USB 2 ports and 1 USB 3 port. That makes me even more curious what protocol will be used to connect to the HD in the dock. Hope it’s not USB 2.0.
If you go into windows device manager, go to the view menu and change it to "view by connection" you can then browse the device tree in a hierarchical way that will show you what is connected to what.
In Windows 8/8.1, if you find your external HD in device manager BEFORE you switch to “View by Connection” then when you switch the tree will automatically expand to show it. Under the xHCI controller there will always be a Root Hub listed. If you HD shows connected directly to that then there is no hub.
What chips are on the pcb in the dock?
Eric

sarman_1998 said:
What chips are on the pcb in the dock?
Eric
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will ask the guy on the Transformer forum who took the photos as I don't want to take mine apart.

Is the wifi card a mini pcie? Or a different interface I may want to upgrade mine.