Related
I was removing iGuidance v3 and in the middle of it, the phone turned off. Thought I just hit the power button to turn off screen and press power again. Nothing. Thinking it just crashed, I held down power button, nothing; removed battery and replaced it and hit power, nothing. Put it on the charger and it doesnt have any lights showing its charging.
The phone is less than 6 months old, could it be the battery? What should I do? any help here appreciated.
Have you tried a reset press and hold both the side OK button and the power button and then press the reset button by putting the stylus into the hole in the bottom of the device.? This takes sometimes more try's.
Now do a soft reset (again put your stylus in the hole on the bottom of the device, dont press any other buttons).
Mostly this should do the trick!
Ok, replaced battery today and still no power nor charge. So how do I reset? Hold power and ok button down and then replace stylus in hole? Do you mean the ok button on the side or on the front?
You may want to do a HARD reset, not a soft one.
Tried hard and soft resets by putting stylus in pin hole. No luck, think its toast. Also tried the battery in/battery out trick while on charge.
Ive heard of phones crashing or being bricked after a bad rom install or taking off usb too soon, but removing a program and it dying is different. Never had any issues with this phone. Is there a way to test it w/ a multimeter to see if mobo is bad?
What about replacing the little round battery thats on the mainboard? Would that do anything?
Isn't it still covered under warranty? If so, just have them fix or replace it bro.
No warranty. Replaced the screen myself a long time ago.
I just got an email from HTC telling me basically how to preform a hard reset. Well it didnt work. My phone is a paper weight now. Ive never had to do a hard reset before. Used Memaid to do the soft reset all the time. Ill keep trying and fix it eventually by either replacing the mainboard or digging deeper for a fix. Thanks for help everyone
Just got an email from HTC help:
"Dear Customer,
Thank you for contacting HTC America.
For repair inquiry, please contact our repair center at 1-888-354-2375. They will provide you with all the info rmation that is needed for the process of repairing. They will provide you with a RMA number. After that you can send in your phone for further diagnosing. After analyzing, they will determine if it’s in warranty or out of warranty. If it is in warranty, they will repair and return the unit. If it is out of warranty, they will contact you to secure a payment. If you have any questions or concern after you send in your phone, you can call the repair number again to check on the status.
For troubleshooting, please call 1-866-449-8358. If you would like to purchase any accessories, please contact our accessories department at 1-888-716-3594.
I hope we have answered your question in detail. Feel free to contact us again if you have any further questions.
Best regards,
Michelle Pham
HTC America CSR"
I called the number for troubleshooting first and was told that this isnt a fix that anyone can do on their own. It must be sent in for further analysis. What was interesting about the conversation is when I asked if he had ever heard of this problem before. He said he gets that problem all the time with these models. Ive never of this happening. Never found any other posts about it either. I bet its a problem with the phone holding a charge on the mainboard, like a faulty capacitor most likely its gonna have to be j-tagged at the repair center.
Hi
I don't think this is a very common problem as they say. Yes, there are many reports of the failing to charge issue and stuck on the red LED light, but only a tiny number of absolutely dead devices.
Curiously, the service manual refers to an on-board fuse. But later states that when this is blown that those without board level repair authority should "replace the m/board". Clearly then, this is either not a fuse in the ordinary sense of the word or refers to any component that may be "blown" and would require detailed tests to track the problem.
Just for info: the m/board is not a basic simple one in terms of soldering / component removal and replacement. Speaking personally, I would not attempt anything more than very basic work on this board - perhaps just on some of the "cruder" connections here and there. Boards in these types of phone make the more typical boards in other electrical equipment look like ironmongery.
Mike
Ive examined the mainboard and looked it over very carefully for any burnt resistors or capacitors. Nothing out of the ordinary. The components would be a huge project to replace, their soooo small, only the mini USB charger port could actually be done by hand.
What would the fuse look like? Is it soldered to the board? I see a small round battery near the PTT button. Is this something that can be replaced? Probably messes up the BIOS when removed like a computer motherboard.
I shouldnt have been so quick to sell off my Wizard before this happened.
often fuses are no longer used, they use a for example 1 Ohm resistor of limited power rating instead.
You might try to follow the current on the mobo while the charger is connected, see whether you can locate the disconnecting (faulty) part.....but the size of the components makes this a very difficult job....my gues would be that the problem is located near the power entry/regulator if nothing goes, meaning no action while on battery nor w the charger connected.
marcelnl said:
often fuses are no longer used, they use a for example 1 Ohm resistor of limited power rating instead.
You might try to follow the current on the mobo while the charger is connected, see whether you can locate the disconnecting (faulty) part.....but the size of the components makes this a very difficult job....my gues would be that the problem is located near the power entry/regulator if nothing goes, meaning no action while on battery nor w the charger connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But these are multi-layered boards, it will be very hard to trace a connection on it.
Ok, so I lost my motherboard. Probably something killed it during the whole uninstall process. Made peace w/ that. Maybe bury it in the backyard or something. LOL
I bought it to replace my aging 8125, but wonder if I did it for the wrong reason. I thought the new processor would be way faster, but it really wasnt that fast. 8525 has a nicer housing, camera and 3G (which i never used), A2DP that doesnt skip. Never even used the pre-installed programs like Mobi-TV, Telenav, etc.
Anyways, anyone think a 8125 motherboard will fit in a 8525 housing?
I have read many threads and forums about the problem of the Hermes becoming white. The soft reset in this case does not help.
I found the explanation in my case and I am not able to fix it quickly, without opening the device to screw the connector.
The problem is only due to the temperature of the device. When the temp is to hot, the screen is white, in my case, it typically happens when it stays in my pocket et I moving too much throug the office ;-)
Solution, simply open the keyboard and gently blow in the thin area between the two parts of the device.. in my case, the screen comes back in 2-3 seconds.
Enjoy !
Eric
Hermes/Schaps 4.31/Orange CH
To be honest, I have this problem on my 838 (wizard) previously.
I have found someone (engineer who I need to pay) help me to check.
It is actually the connection cable between the keyboard and screen start breaking.
This makes the connection poor.
End up, my wizard cannot be repaired and I have borrow my freinds hermes to use in the mean time.
I suggest you pay special attention to it.
I suppecm that you blow it is actually helping the connection of that cable.
huh
are you guys serious in what you're talking about?
blow in between the two parts of the device when it's hot to get the connection of the cable back?
are you sure you are talking about a mobile phone and not about a compressor?
thanks for your feedback. I am convince that in my case, the gentle blow does not move the connecting cable.
Additionaly, the tipical symptom reported in various thread is that the soft reset does not help, while letting it apart for 15 minutes does help. It can confirm that the simple temperature idea is fine.
Again, it works for me, it can help others, and sorry for the others that won't find a solution with mine!
actually, i am neutal to this topic.
But just want to share my experience.
In my case, my cable is aging. Initially, it can help with slide the keyboard open and close.
End up the engineer told me that cannot be repaired deal to no parts. he examined it using a microsope watching the cable.
no need to take it too series.
It is a cable connection issue, it is caused by either dropping or opening and closing the device numerous times. It can be fixed the part cost around $20 kinda hard to find but can be found if you search enought. I can repair the device if your interested either pm me or you can contact me at
[email protected]
nate
when this happened to my hermes last August i found slightly unscrewing the two screws on the back of the screen fixed it & not had a problem since
didnt know what the white screen was 'till i got it right after the external volume crapped out, so tired of tinkering with hermes, going Kaiser
As a science experiment I have bought a number of hermes on ebay- it is a cable connection issue or worn cable in the 4 I have played with - all fixed by cleaning and reinstalling cable/connection or replacing the cable assembly. I cant say this is the only bug but 4 outy of 4 inducates a trend to me
John
Oh my gosh, topic starter, that is the same exact issue that I frequently have with my 8525. I eventually found out that if I leave it in direct sunlight, put it in my pocket for too long, or in anyway expose it to relative heat, then it would turn white.
That's a nice "fix" you have there hahah. As for me, I just let it cool down by placing it in a cool and shaded place, works like a charm after a few minutes.
Anyone with a WHITE screen MUST READ this!!!
To bring credit to what I say below, I haved had tinkering experience with electronics for the past 10 years, not to mention that I am currently a 3rd year electronics engineering student.
I currently have 4 hermes units.
When I first had the white screen prolem on my first hermes about a year ago (may be 8-10 months?) my research on the net revealed that the problem is apparently the connector on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A). After serious tinkering and tweaking I finally got the (extremely sensitive) connector connected up so that the white screen issue actually dissapeared. However, since the connection was so delicate and so sensitive, I had to fix it in place with a hot glue. Hot glue actually added some thickness to it; given that there isn't much tolerance between the top of the connector and the cover, I needed to scrape away some plastic without putting a hole in it so it can accommodate the extra thickness, this is also required for the sliding function to be smooth.
However, right now I have 4 hermes, and I am faced with the same issue. On two units I have the white screen problem. After some intuitive testing I have found that the problem is not with the flex cable, nor with the connector on the flex cable, nor the connector on the button pad board. The problem is with the actual button pad board itself, as it contains fair bit of circuitry on board.
This is how I came to the conclusion. Since the white screen can be fixed with sensitive alignment of the connecor on the board, I wondered if it will display anything with that D-pad (button pad board) disconnected. On trial, it didn't display anything on both a functional unit and a unit with a white screen issue. From this I made the assumtion that the LCD initialisation sequence is contained on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A).
Having made this assumption, I thought since the symptoms of having it disconnected on a functional unit is the same with a unit that has the white screen symptom, I wondered if it will fix the white screen problem if I changed over the button pad board. On trial, I found that the white screen problem was a thing of the past. So, I don't know what on the button pad board actually causes the white screen, but it is DEFINITELY the board it self and not the connector.
PS: I don't know the proper names of the components but by the button pad board I am talking about is the board that lies under the front buttons of the unit that has the call, end call, start, ok...etc buttons.
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
pcpc said:
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
uengin said:
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
pcpc said:
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt its a "loose" solder joint. It could be a dry joint. But then again you never know. However, the symptoms with the heating and cooling mentioned in the thread it could be one of the several devices on the button pad board failing due to heat.
As a general rule of thumb, definitely electronic devices of this calibre should be dealt with a level of care indeed.
nohanz said:
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same for me which seems software issue but how to solve it
I'm having white screen problem too. I highly doubt it has anything to do with a cable because:
1) I almost never use keyboard, aka don't slide open the phone
2) lately white screen often happens when I touch a screen.
3) several times white screen got fixed by holding the phone next to aircondition outlet.
4) white screen recently started at the same time I've noticed that the battery started dying, it doesn't last as long as before. Before this battery I had another one, similar, and also never had white screen while that battery was new.
To conclude all this, at least in my case is more likely it's a battery issue and/or overheat. Tomorrow I'll use the original battery (I've replaced it with 3k mAh 2 years ago) this should proof me right or wrong.
My white screen issues started after a waist-high drop onto concrete, accompanied by the D-Pad and the surrounding buttons not working. In order to get the white screen to go away and the buttons to work again, I have a simple 2-step process:
Put the Hermes to sleep
Press hard right above the D-Pad/below the screen
When I wake the device up, it works just fine!
Interesting Find......
I just noticed something about my white screens.
IF the poweron led does NOT turn on then I get white screen when turning on my hermes.
If the poweron led turns ON(lights up) when turning my phone on then it won't white screen on me.
I just bought a replacement power button/ flex cable for Nexus of ebay. Took me around 30 minutes to replace it but its fully working right now. Its around 30 £ .
Item name it "Flex Cable Repair Parts for HTC Google Nexus one G5 1"
Just thought i let you know .
Any pictures?
Is it a tricky fix? I replaced my digitizer just fine so hopefully this wouldn't be a major repair job in comparison. Would love to have my power button working again!
I don't understand why you fixed it yourself, I sent mine back to HTC.
stinkypete said:
I don't understand why you fixed it yourself, I sent mine back to HTC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did it cost for the repair out of interest? Did it take them long to get it back to you?
Just curious if to you it looked like a bad button connection or a bad cable? I know sometimes the buttons get crud in them so they dont make a proper connection...
Great info. Too bad we don't have step by step pics. How did you take the phone apart and how deep did you have to go?
Does anyone know why the power button breaks? I have my N1 a year now and (luckily) i never had a HW issue. anyways i was just wondering why it breaks .
Step by step pics would have been nice.
commodoor said:
Does anyone know why the power button breaks? I have my N1 a year now and (luckily) i never had a HW issue. anyways i was just wondering why it breaks .
Step by step pics would have been nice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The power button itself has a small cylindrical piece of plastic which pushes against and presses a small connection that sorta clicks (Which gives you the tactile feedback you feel). I think the problem occurs when either 1) The piece of plastic either bends/breaks/gets damaged in some way that makes that contact much harder to produce 2) The connection is connected to the phone via a cable/flex, however due to the Nexus one design it is bent around in order to be below the power button, while this is fine for the majority some devices, including mine, have seen the flex become damaged for whatever reason and either function intermittently or not at all.
It's also interesting to note that there is nothing holding the flex or the connection in place except for the design itself i.e. the battery bay plastic holds it all in place. My power button was never that responsive (But got progressively worse) so this may explain why.
Its always flex cable breaks and there is no way you can replace just the flex cable.You can find plenty of disassembly instruction over the net and yes you need to disassembly it to the pieces( still less to do than to replace digitizer.)I had a seal broken so i couldn't send it to HTC.
Hollow.Droid said:
The power button itself has a small cylindrical piece of plastic which pushes against and presses a small connection that sorta clicks (Which gives you the tactile feedback you feel). I think the problem occurs when either 1) The piece of plastic either bends/breaks/gets damaged in some way that makes that contact much harder to produce 2) The connection is connected to the phone via a cable/flex, however due to the Nexus one design it is bent around in order to be below the power button, while this is fine for the majority some devices, including mine, have seen the flex become damaged for whatever reason and either function intermittently or not at all.
It's also interesting to note that there is nothing holding the flex or the connection in place except for the design itself i.e. the battery bay plastic holds it all in place. My power button was never that responsive (But got progressively worse) so this may explain why.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thnx for the explanation. I get it now. maybe it smart to always use trackball wake .
Ra1stlin said:
Its always flex cable breaks and there is no way you can replace just the flex cable.You can find plenty of disassembly instruction over the net and yes you need to disassembly it to the pieces( still less to do than to replace digitizer.)I had a seal broken so i couldn't send it to HTC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did some googling and found a few images of that component, I remember taking it out and it was pretty simple so it should be just fine! Thanks for the info!
Is it the Power button part that you changed ?
Hi,
I have found a photo of the power button part, can you tell us if you changed the full part shown on the photo ?
androidguys.com/2010/09/08/manage-nexus-broken-power-button
And i think you paid it way too much expensive ?
Thanks.
I just replaced my flex cable as well as the loud speaker as well.
iFixit has a few pictures and there is a video on youtube, of the taking apart process. Unfortunately I can't post links
There are two little rubber parts that will likely fall out during the mainboard removal. One goes underneath the connector beside the sim card and one is a part of the microphon.
I wish I could have taken pictures of where those parts go, but alas, my only camera right now is my nexus, so....
BTW, I bought my parts at Mobile Brando. Quite well priced as compared to many other stores of the kind.
was it the whole board that you've replaced? or just the flex cable for the power button. can you further elaborate the steps that you've done?
So this is the item that you purchased? http://mobile.brando.com/google-nexus-one-mother-board-flex-cable-ribbon_p6193c1023d88.html
Can you confirm that the 3.5mm jack is on that board? Additionally, is that motherboard and flex cable for the AMOLED version or the SLCD version?
Do you need to remove the screen and risk getting dust inside there to swap this part?
Hi,
That's exactly the item, at that very same store. I also bought a loudspeaker as well as both back covers there. The audiojack is on board and I believe the flex cable has nothing to do with the screen type. The screen does not have to be removed.
I used those pics: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-One-Teardown/1654/1
and this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cznogushN34&feature=player_embedded to figure out how to do it.
Basically, it's quite straight forward, given that you aren't a clumsy oaf ;-)
Remember the two rubber parts that might fall out when you pull off the mainboard assembly. (one at the bottom, for the microphon (http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/fpRmPyN6h12mtNvt.huge ,a bit to the left of the plastic tool) and one at the connector beside the sim card (http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/EOfeocuwhCRASB6M.huge , on the left part, somewhat down from the serial number sticker).
I have this probleme, but this part costs too much :S....
10. pin ON OFF way in board socket... u make jumper to on off buton
I have replace Power button for my N1. But you can reset your N1 by do'n need it. Except when you want flash rom!
After reading several posts to find a cure for my HTC HD2 unresponsive touch screen,( Slider wont slide to open applications), I decided to verify a theory. Software... Digitalizer screen, or power button.
Ok, first I Instelled about six different android versions, and the screen slide still failed. I reverted the cell back to original t-mobile windows software, and still locked screen.
Conclussion: The sofware is not the problem.
After several attempts pressing the red power button, I got the slider to open. Briefly, it locked again. Pressed the red button hard and tried to work the slide on the touch screen. Again briefly worked. After several more attempts I got it to slide and while the phone was awake, everything worked perfect. I played games, oppened applications, texted, made phone calls, and the touch screen worked flawless.
Conclussion: The digitalizer (Thin top glass screen on top of the display that responds to touch) is not the problem.
This led me to belibe that the power button was at fault. I called T-mobile and after explaining the problem, they decided to send me a different type of windows cell. I want my htc. So I declined the offer and decided to void the warranty and take matters in my own hands. Yes, I opened my HTC HD2. This is what I found: After about an hour I had carefully taken my htc apart without braking or scratching the phone or screen. When I finaly got to the buttons on the bottom, I noticed how cheap they where made. A thin copper circle on top of two contacts held in place by tape. Yes you heard right, tape. After a while, beating on the red end key for maybe a year or two, the tape brakes and the metal piece slides to the side, and makes the button to malfunction, that's why the hard pressing to make it work. I tried A bottle of comppressed power air to clean them before disassembling the phone but the way they are installed It's not possible to clean them like that.
Conclussion: The red end key is faulty.
I decided to keep the cell alive so I went on e-bay and ordered the buttons, and just in case I also got a new digitalizer for testing purpose.
The buttons panel was about 4 dollars and some change, and the digitalizer (touch screen) was about 14 dollars for a total of less than 20 bucks. (Worth it)
So here are some pics of my cell buttons, and what it should look like. After I get the parts and assemble it I will conclude and let you know the final and official veredict. As of now, it all leads to the button.
Please do let us know how you got on. I have a HD2 which I'd like to get up and running again so I can play with custom roms and leave my other mobile alone...lol. Any chance you could link to the places you got parts/tape from, and what tools we would need?
Cheers! :good:
Did it worked ??? i am also in the same situation...please share the details,
bijeeshvs said:
Did it worked ??? i am also in the same situation...please share the details,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
listening in as well
sheesh! my wife's HD2 also stop responding yesterday, seems like clockwork that a lot are having the same problem
first have to find "how to open your HD2" w/o breaking anything in the process :silly:
Damn. The second time I'm hearing about the red button giving problems.... Will be waiting results from you dude!!! +1
still wayting for the parts
Well, I am still wayting for the parts, they are on the way. The parts I found on E-bay. The buttons panel was about five or 6 dollars, I also got the digitalizer which was about 15 dollars. As soon as I get the parts, I will assemble my hd2 with the original digytalizer (the thin top screen) and test to make sure the buttons were the problem. If all goes well, I will post a complete test result with links to how to get the parts, a link on how to dissassemble the hd2 and all info I can to help on this issue. I did a step back in life, and pulled out my trusty 7 years old motorola razr v3 and stuck my sim card so i can talk and text 5 words in 7 minutes. No internet... I need my HD2... Well, I will report back as soon as I can. Thanks for the wait...
@dragonsuicida
will be waiting for your findings & ways to dis-assemble the HD2 :fingers-crossed:
You were lucky to find the buttons' panel for 4bucks. I just checked out Ebay india, and the panel is 40bucks!!! What a robbery!
Wow. Me too!
I have been running Win6.5 still on my HD2, and have found in the last few days, my screen locks and I can't unlock it.
I came here deciding it was a software issue and was going to look into putting Android on my HD2.
I was slowly coming to the conclusion that it was the power button.
If I make an effort to NOT touch it - my phone seems happy.
It's amazing that we're all having the same problem about 2 and a bit years down the track since the HD2 was released - almost a built in expiry!!
And yeah - lots of details on how to fix it would be great.
The HD2 is too good-a-piece of hardware to allow a ****ty hardware button to be the cause of it's death.
New Keypad Button Flex Cable Ribbon For HTC HD2
Copy this:
New Keypad Button Flex Cable Ribbon For HTC HD2 T8585 and paste it on ebay, it will bring the buttons for the htc hd2. I belive they all come from china, but after I test them I will let you all know if they work and if they are worth it.
Copy this: REPLACEMENT DIGITIZER TOUCH SCREEN LENS for HTC HD2 T8585 and paste it on e-bay and it will bring you the digitizer for the hd2.
copy this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdOC3Xxo_k0 and paste it on your web browser, and it will lead you to a video on How To Replace Repair Disassemble Screen Digitizer. When it gets to a part that say that you have to put the phone in a oven, is just to melt the tape or glue holding the screen to the phone. I just used a hair dryer to war the screen enough to carefully remove the screen and the digitizer from the phone without breaking them, It works. I will be back soon with more info. I believe my digitizer screen is on the mail box now. Will report back...
I have same problem. Today I bought a flex cable ribbon and waiting for the dispatch (estimated in 2 days). I will also report back..
Same problem here!
Hope to hear soon that this is the way to go to fix it
You have to stick back the tape in the housing. The tape is electrically conductive. It connects the ground of the keyboard flex cable with the ground of the housing.
Copy this: REPLACEMENT DIGITIZER TOUCH SCREEN LENS for HTC HD2 T8585 and paste it on e-bay and it will bring you the digitizer for the hd2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be careful! There are two types of digitizer:
- Solder version http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-touch-hd2-touch-screen-with-digitizer-solder-version/
- Socket version http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-touch-hd2-touch-screen-with-digitizer-socket-version/
Be very careful when ordering parts, specially the digitizer they have several kinds, solder and socket, and different socket sizes. Compare parts with the ones in your cell to make sure, don't just believe the advertisements.
Hi, any updates on this? I'm also having this issue, but in my case, even pressing end call really really hard doesn't solve the problem... snif..
+1 on that
i pressed all the keys even the lower part of the LCD & flashed new roms but no joy :crying:
will bring to shop instead I'm afraid to open it up, it might end up even worse
Just be extremely careful when you try this. That flex cable is so incredible fragile and easy to tear. My roommate tore the volume rocker section right off of his HD2.
Hi dragonsuicida
Were you able to get your touchscreen to work?
Hi,
i bought a factory refurbished I9600F from aliexpress. It worked great for 3 days, then the phone became slow to respond, the screen was flickering in yellow-green tones, and then wouldn't come back on but stay black. (but I would still get notification sounds for incoming messages, the notification LED was still working, and the menu keys also light up when I press home/power).
Pulling the battery fixed the issue once, but the problem came back after 1 hour.
I managed to revive the phone once more by pulling the battery and holding the power button to drain all remaining power in the device. The phone was working again for a few hours, but now it's back to having a black screen and even the power drain method doesn't work anymore...
So i'm guessing that replacing the screen won't fix the issue, since the screen is working just fine for a a while (both image and touch are perfect) - but then somehow there must be some electrical issue that causes the graphics unit to malfunction.
I checked the easily accessible connector to the left side of the battery, but it seems that the screen is mainly connected via flex cables that cannot be accessed unless you heat up your device and pry out the screen.
I have found some information on the internet that pressing hard on the spot where the flex cable connector is might fix the problem, but this didn't work for me.
FYI, I'm running the default Samsung firmware the device shipped with and used Kies + OTA update to get the latest official FW. No rooting or any other mods. Just some regular apps installed.
Any recommendation what I could try to fix this problem? Thank you all!!!
BTW, I have found similar reports on the internet here:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s5/405238-galaxy-s5-static-screen-won-t-turn.html
But the linked how-to-fix guide states that heating up the display assembly is only recommended on devices with a broken screen... So now I don't want to risk breaking my working screen.
So mainly my options are
a) open the device to check the flex cable connection
b) buy a new battery to see if that solves if (some people have reported success with a different battery)
c) buy a new screen assembly on aliexpress for around €135 and hope that a new screen will fix it...
Thoughts?
wutzin said:
So mainly my options are
a) open the device to check the flex cable connection
b) buy a new battery to see if that solves if (some people have reported success with a different battery)
c) buy a new screen assembly on aliexpress for around €135 and hope that a new screen will fix it...
Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, how did you solve this? I currently have the same problem.
gustav9797 said:
Hello, how did you solve this? I currently have the same problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, i actually never was able to get this resolved. I tried removing the screen to get to the flex cable, but broke the screen because I hadn't heated up the glue enough...
Had to buy another device.
Sorry I don't have better news...
wutzin said:
sorry, i actually never was able to get this resolved. I tried removing the screen to get to the flex cable, but broke the screen because I hadn't heated up the glue enough...
Had to buy another device.
Sorry I don't have better news...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going find out the cause for this issue. I've disassembled one device that only lights up when it is warm. If I put it in the cooler it refuses to light up for some time after that. I tried placing only the screen in the cooler, also only the phone body in the cooler, but couldn't find any difference doing this as it refuses to light up both times for a couple of minutes then it works great again.
I've ordered another device that had its screen shattered so I will try my current screen on that device.
It could be some internal hardware fault in the mobo, it could be the LCD connector having a bad connection somehow, it could be the screen assembly itself, but I will find out eventually.
I've seen many places on the internet where people say this is a software issue. There is a very simple answer to that question. How could it be a software issue if not even the boot logo shows up when you start the phone?
I will keep this thread updated.
Verified that this is a problem with the motherboard. What circuit on the motherboard could have problems with cold temperatures? The main power one? If so, I will try replacing it with a different one.
Update: Was not able to fix it. Motherboard is now scrap.