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Alright, so I have the dx with the stock battery, stock wall charger, and my gf has a fascinate, stock battery and charger, and she swears my charger is worlds faster than hers even tried switching and mine seems considerably faster. Both plugged into the wall not usb. So far it seems it might be, could a few people post some average charge times for a full charge from near dead and indicate from what percentage battery was at. Just wondering cause she is contemplating buying an dx charger.
Sent from my DROIDX using XDA App
Higher the amperage of the charger = Faster charge. Just keep voltage the same.
My charger charges my friends evolution much quicker for this reason
yes, that was what I was thinking as well, but tonight I ran into a buddy in school for some sort of electronics degree (I forget exactly what) who said the different duty cycles may be the culprit.
How long the charger must rest after doing work, ie, if you have your charger plugged in, it may only be charging half the time if its duty cycle is 50% just used for an example). So even if the numbers match 5 volts and 850 mA, the charge times can radically differ if the duty cycle were to be 30%. Although he could be completely wrong.... as I said hes still in school...
While I feel that increasing amperage by switching chargers could be partially dangerous to the device, if the difference is Duty Cycle, thats kinda a different story. Perhaps it would indicate the high temperature while charging as it does not allow the phone to cool between cycles? just a guess.... any input? still would like to see some numbers on charge time. maybe some numbers on non oem chargers too?
Decided to make a seperate thread for this. Maybe a mod could move those posts over...
scoob8000 said:
This is very interesting.. Gonna order one of those adaptors. I have another possible source that I'll call and see if they can get them.
Dx rocks but I lack the patience to wait for overseas shipping.
Food for thought..
I have a cheapo 4 port usb hub on my night stand for charging all my devices. It is limited to 500ma per port. Ive noticed it won't charge my atrix. Guessing 500ma isn't enough..
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Rred said:
scoob-
"It is limited to 500ma per port. Ive noticed it won't charge my atrix. Guessing 500ma isn't enough.."
No, physics doesn't work like that. If the VOLTAGE from your USB device is above the charging voltage for the phone, even a 100mA charger would be enough to charge the phone up. It would just take a long time, perhaps 22-24 hours to do so.
The normal Moto chargers are about 1000mA and they charge the phone quickly, usually two hours or less. But Moto has been making very generous chargers for years, they even supplied a 1000mA charger with my bt earpiece, which doesn't need that much power at all.
If a 500mA charger hasn't fully charged your phone in 4 hours, there's something else wrong. Bad wire, bad contact, not plugged in tight...or the "Made in China" effect.<G>
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_Dennis_ said:
No you are wrong sir. The phone will not charge on a 500 ma charge. It will use less battery but 500ma charger is not sufficient to both power the device and charge it. Also the charger supplied it 750ma charger and if you are running 1.2.6 the phone will refuse 1a chargers. Just because something provides voltage in the correct range does not mean ut provides enough energy to charge something else. Voltage is potential current is actual power. Just plug your phone into a USB socket without the computer having drivers (there by limiting the socket to 500ma) it won't charge.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
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scoob8000 said:
Sorry OP for the threadjacking..
I'm familiar with Ohm's law, where I was headed is I think the phone may be doing one of two things. (purely guessing )
It may just be adhering to USB specs. It realizes the hub is a USB device and not just a charger. Since there is no computer on the other side, to negotiate more than 100ma it just doesn't charge.
Or the voltage drop @ 500ma (my hubs max per port) is just too high to enter charging. Worth noting, is when the battery is >90 and I plug the hub in, the notification led lights, but the battery still discharges.
I need to hack up a usb cord to take some voltage/current measurements. Maybe I'm just being OCD, but I like to "slow charge" my devices while I sleep.
[edit] I think I'm going to try making a charge only USB cable... That might answer some questions
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Rred said:
Dennis?
"It will use less battery but 500ma charger is not sufficient to both power the device and charge it."
Powering the phone, and charging the phone, and simultaneously doing both, are three different things.
The 500mA is sufficient to CHARGE the phone, that's all I said. I have no idea how much power it takes to POWER the phone with all four radios (BT, GPS, Wifi, cellular) active and music or Angry Birds playing at the same time. The power drain for each of those may be significant.
But since the phone has a ~1900mAh battery, you can establish the phone's power drain by turning on "everything" and letting the battery drain from full charge. If it takes four hours to go dead...yes, the phone may consume 500mA all by itself, leaving nothing to charge the battery. Again, that's physics, and it applies the same way to every laptop and phone on the market, and other devices that use adapter/chargers.
I stand by what I said: 500mA will fully recharge the battery in about 4 hours. I did NOT say it would power all four radios and play music as well as charging the phone at the same time. You'll have to do your own math to find that out, but the physics remains the same. My phone usually charges while I sleep, and a 500mA source will do that very nicely, with just the cellular radio enabled, and not in conversation.
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So I just made a little USB breakout cable so I could do a little investigation..
Oddly, even with the stock charger and the data lines disconnected the Atrix will not charge. I'm supecting most AC chargers must supply power on the data lines as well, or do something with them that triggers the device to charge.
As for the voltage, my hub and oem charger both throw out 5.12v with no load. When I plug the phone in, there is no drop at all.
From what my googling turns up, I may need a 180ish ohm resistor between the data lines. The phone looks for that to enter charging mode. Apparently this is why the drivers are needed for charging on some computers. Instead of resistance, it gets the charge signal from the pc.
So anyway out of curiosity I also took a few load readings:
Battery at 40%, screen off, phone idle: 600~ma
The most I could get it to pull was with battery at 40%, streaming last fm over a BT headset, and running quadrant. I saw around 690ma at peak.
Voice calls don't seem to make much of a difference. 10-15ma.
I'm going to check again with a full battery once it's charged. That ought to tell us what the phone itself is using.
I'm using a 550ma 5v charger because it has a longer reach. I stream music, cruise the net, watch videos and it charges my phone no problem.
Sent from my MB860 using XDA Premium App
So with a completely full battery:
Idle, screen off: 100~ma
full load (same as before): 400ma at peak
Either I am lucky and got a better one, or everyone else is wrong on the standard charger. Mine is 850ma. Also, my phone will charge on USB 2 (500ma) if screen is off and I do not use the phone. It's slow but it charges. On USB 3 it charges about half the speed it does on mains.
Sent from WinBorg 4G via XDA premium app
scoob-
"As for the voltage, my hub and oem charger both throw out 5.12v with no load."
Were you using a lab calibrated voltmeter? <G>
Most digital multimeters have a stated accuracy something like 1/2 to 1% on the DC voltages, and then they also have a "float" of 2-4 LSD meaning, the least significant digit (the rightmost one on whatever scale) may float by 2-4 digits.
So on a typical meter where you have a choice between a 2.000 volt scale, and a 20.00 volt scale, "_5.00" on the display could just as easily read "5.05" if it is was 1% off, within the limits of accuracy. And then 5.05 could read 5.09 or 5.00 as the digits float. The errors sometimes cancel out, sometimes accumulate.
I've seen much worse as they get old and out of calibration, where a "12.00" volt reading on one meter was 12.3 on another.
Which is just to say that 5.12 might actually be 5.00, or whatever the USB spec actually calls for. (It doesn't have to be 5.00 exactly.)
I had no idea they needed a signal voltage (available from the data lines on microUSB but not miniUSB) to enter charge state. That "should" mean that you can't use a miniUSB charger with a micro adapter for simple charging. I'll have to try that to see what happens. [ [LATER] Nope, something's not right about needing the signal resistor, because I just charged my Atrix using a miniUSB charger (no data signal possible) with a mini-to-micro power tip adapter, which "should" not be presenting any signal, just passing through the 4 old style connections. ]
There will still be simple--if unpublished or poorly documented--rules of physics governing what happens. Battery charging isn't rocket science, although battery chargers are sometimes "smarter" than rockets are.<G>
CaelanT,
Mines also 850ma..
Rred,
I actually splurged on a very (I think) good meter a few years ago. It's a Fluke 187. They claim .025% DC accuracy. Granted, I've had it a few years and never sent it back in for calibration.
I actually found two sides to having a resistor in the connector.
One story starts with Motorola trying to enforce people using only "genuine" chargers. Link
The other points to the data lines being shorted to indicate to the device that it is a dedicated charging device. Link Skip to the last paragraoh on this page. It's very long winded.
I actually tore apart a old car charger, in the mini usb plug there lied a small resistor between the data pins. I didn't believe how simple it was until I saw it.
Pretty interesting stuff. For us geeks anyway.
scoob, a Fluke is like a Rolls-Royce, except it is more reliable.<G>
The resistors are documented as part of the microUSB spec, they are what are often called "pull-up resistors", i.e. the voltage they provide to the fifth wire "pulls up" the voltage on that line and the tiny brains see that as a signal to do something specific.
Even the Palm Treos used this system. Not on the power line, but on the audio jack. they use a single 3-wire 2.5mm standard minijack and depending on the impedances that they see on it, they will provide mono audio, stereo audio, or mic input plus mono audio, so that three types of devices all plug into the same plug--but all three are sensed and work differently. As Arthur Clarke said "Any sufficiently advanced technology will be indistinguishable from magic."
There's no Moto conspiracy to the resistors, the new microUSB spec provides magic and the industry just doesn't want to bother our pretty little heads by talking about it in any detail.
Now, why Moto omitted the call audio routines from the library on these phones...THAT'S probably a conspiracy.<G>
I'm not reading all 480+ pages of the final USB3 spec, but it appears to refer to standard devices as consuming one "unit" of power at 150mA, with a maximum of six "units" or 900mA, and a maximum voltage of "5" which would mean that if Moto is supplying 5.12V @ 1000mA...they've exceeded the spec and aren't entitled to use the USB logo.
But if they'll fix my call audio library, I won't tell a soul about that.<VBG>
Just for ****s and giggles. I decided to use my Turbo Charger on all Moto Devices. My Acer A-200 went from 20% to 100% in 30 minutes. I know The Acer is not Moto. Just saying. My Droid Turbo Went from 0% to 100% in Like 20 minutes. Did the same thing with my free tablet that Verizon added an xtra line to my bill which I did not know. The QMV7B which by the way I have already rooted. C'mon Turbo let's get our root on. But any hoot. The tab went from 10% to 100% also in 15 minutes. In theory does the Turbo pack work for all devices?
HOFFABALBOA said:
Just for ****s and giggles. I decided to use my Turbo Charger on all Moto Devices. My Acer A-200 went from 20% to 100% in 30 minutes. I know The Acer is not Moto. Just saying. My Droid Turbo Went from 0% to 100% in Like 20 minutes. Did the same thing with my free tablet that Verizon added an xtra line to my bill which I did not know. The QMV7B which by the way I have already rooted. C'mon Turbo let's get our root on. But any hoot. The tab went from 10% to 100% also in 15 minutes. In theory does the Turbo pack work for all devices?
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I could be wrong, but the basic theory is you are shoving ALOT of amps down those batteries throats. The Droid Turbo battery is designed to handle this while the other devices...I dont know. My normal charger is 1A and I have a 2A charger in my car those devices are normally meant for Apple products. So mainly yeah the charger technically works and charges stuff fast, but it 'could' shorten the lifespan of your battery if it's not meant to handle that high a charge rate.
This is TERRIVKR!! DO NOT USA THE CHARGER ON OTHER PHONES. I WROTE a huge thing pm my phone about this. SwiftKey sucks ass on xda and idk why. Not correcting any of its mistakes (hit back button by accident and that erased what I originally wrote) . This is no new technology and it's just some bull money maker. It's terrible for batteries and can cause them toeexplod. It mmakes the turbo hot wwhen charging it..... You don't want that junk. I refuse to use this charger.
I had read the bundled charger will charge non quick charge 2.0 compatible devices at normal rates. Your tests are indicating otherwise.
Opzon said:
This is TERRIVKR!! DO NOT USA THE CHARGER ON OTHER PHONES. I WROTE a huge thing pm my phone about this. SwiftKey sucks ass on xda and idk why. Not correcting any of its mistakes (hit back button by accident and that erased what I originally wrote) . This is no new technology and it's just some bull money maker. It's terrible for batteries and can cause them toeexplod. It mmakes the turbo hot wwhen charging it..... You don't want that junk. I refuse to use this charger.
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The Turbo's battery is designed to charge fast, it's similar anode coating technology used in the battery banks of electric vehicles to give them a quick charge. All Li-Ion batteries have internal power management circuitry (PMIC) that are designed to charge that battery responsibly and prevent thermal runaway. That being said, I would not charge a device at a higher amperage than it is designed for, these PMICs are not infallible and thermal runaway can still occur. So to the OP: I would stick to using the charger that came with the respective device you are charging, a venting Li-Ion battery's gasses turns into hydrofluoric acid when it makes contact with water, ie the moisture in your throat and lungs. Not worth the hospital visit for ****s and giggles!
lordmaxx said:
I could be wrong, but the basic theory is you are shoving ALOT of amps down those batteries throats. The Droid Turbo battery is designed to handle this while the other devices...I dont know. My normal charger is 1A and I have a 2A charger in my car those devices are normally meant for Apple products. So mainly yeah the charger technically works and charges stuff fast, but it 'could' shorten the lifespan of your battery if it's not meant to handle that high a charge rate.
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The Turbo (or other Quick charge compatible chargers) DO NOT do their thing because of higher amperage, they use higher VOLTAGE the lower the battery's reported discharge. If you looks at the words printed on your charger you will see that it operates at three different voltages but always the same maximum amperage (1.4-1.6 amps) which is still lower than the amperage provided by newer Samsung chargers (2 amps). It starts high voltage then steps down as the battery fills. There is also circuitry in the charger itself that checks to see if a Qualcomm chipset is present that can handle the new charging logic.
Here is a list of devices and chargers that can "quick" charge https://www.qualcomm.com/news/snapdragon/2014/06/04/quick-charge-20-has-arrived. If it doesn't have Qualcomm snapdragon, the device will just use the charger as a normal 5v 1.6 amp charger.
And more quick charge info: http://www.androidauthority.com/quick-charge-explained-563838/
El Perfecto said:
I had read the bundled charger will charge non quick charge 2.0 compatible devices at normal rates. Your tests are indicating otherwise.
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You are correct, the bundled charger specifically states on the charging block the amperage that it will provide various devices. I charged my droid bionic with it, took normal time.
I just installed a QI charger for my new LG G2. I got a few QI charging pads as well. I want to see how fast it is charging, or the charge rate (500mah, 750? ect) as the receiver is supposed to do the following charge: DC 5V/500mA-1000mA .
Ive tried a few apps, but I cant find one that specifically says what the charging rate is. Anyone know the best way to figure that out?
Two questions:
1) When you say you "installed a QI charger for my new LG G2" exactly what do you mean there, and I do mean exactly: are you referring to getting a Qi charging pad (which you mention) or do you mean you got some kind of part that you physically installed in or on your G2 - the Verizon G2 is the only one that supports wireless charging out-of-the-box so, that's why I'm asking.
2) With respect to actual charging, the output of the Qi wireless charging pad is directly related to the amperage/current supplied by the actual AC adapter or USB charger you're using with it. If it's about 1A (the AC or USB charger) then you're going to lose quite a bit of power in the actual charging process because wireless charging is pretty severely inefficient most of the time, give or take you'd get 400 to 500mAh going into the actual device from the charging pad.
What I'm saying is if you have a Qi wireless charging pad, you'd be best served using as high an amperage/current charger for the pad itself so that the pad can then transfer as much as possible to the device itself. Anything less than a solid 2A charger attached to the Qi wireless charging pad and you're basically wasting a lot of it in the process and might be better off actually just using the USB port on a computer or something (about 500-550mAh max anyway).
Basic rule of thumb: the Qi wireless charging pad can use all the amperage/current it can get, with at least the factory LG 1.8A charger being what I'd call the bare minimum (and with that you'd probably be able to push about 900 to 1000 mAh (aka 1A) to the device. Qi hardware is roughly 40% efficient so, you're going to lose a lot in the process as stated; the more you start with the more that gets to the device even accounting for the inefficiency.
As far as measuring the current, you can try CurrentWidget on the Play Market, it may provide you with some info in terms of the charging rate.
br0adband said:
Two questions:
1) When you say you "installed a QI charger for my new LG G2" exactly what do you mean there, and I do mean exactly: are you referring to getting a Qi charging pad (which you mention) or do you mean you got some kind of part that you physically installed in or on your G2 - the Verizon G2 is the only one that supports wireless charging out-of-the-box so, that's why I'm asking.
2) With respect to actual charging, the output of the Qi wireless charging pad is directly related to the amperage/current supplied by the actual AC adapter or USB charger you're using with it. If it's about 1A (the AC or USB charger) then you're going to lose quite a bit of power in the actual charging process because wireless charging is pretty severely inefficient most of the time, give or take you'd get 400 to 500mAh going into the actual device from the charging pad.
What I'm saying is if you have a Qi wireless charging pad, you'd be best served using as high an amperage/current charger for the pad itself so that the pad can then transfer as much as possible to the device itself. Anything less than a solid 2A charger attached to the Qi wireless charging pad and you're basically wasting a lot of it in the process and might be better off actually just using the USB port on a computer or something (about 500-550mAh max anyway).
Basic rule of thumb: the Qi wireless charging pad can use all the amperage/current it can get, with at least the factory LG 1.8A charger being what I'd call the bare minimum (and with that you'd probably be able to push about 900 to 1000 mAh (aka 1A) to the device. Qi hardware is roughly 40% efficient so, you're going to lose a lot in the process as stated; the more you start with the more that gets to the device even accounting for the inefficiency.
As far as measuring the current, you can try CurrentWidget on the Play Market, it may provide you with some info in terms of the charging rate.
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Firstly, thank you for taking time to write such a great response. I really appreciate it!
1) Yes I installed a universal sticker. I used this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN3RR7Q/ which is supposedly supposed to do 1000mA. People in the reviews seem to say they are getting good results. I wish the ATT version had wireless out of the box, but then if it did I would be stuck with PMA charging. I installed an actual NFC/PMA sticker in my G3. PMA kind of sucks...anywho.
2) This is the pad I am using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9B7ALK/. 1.5a input and 1a output. On this one, I am averaging about 3% per 10 minutes or 30% an hour. So roughly 3 hours and 20 minutes to full charge. I can try the the stock LG. Oh, my Dell Venue 8 Pro is a 2a one. I can try that as well. Can the paid take the 2a in even though it was built for 1.5a in?
I will try current widget. Ive been using battery monitor to log as well.
1) Neat, I didn't even know such a thing existed, I may have to give that a shot with my G2 at some point (if I decide to keep it, that is).
2) As stated before, using a higher amperage/current charger or power supply is preferred, sure. It should help get the charging done faster and again the device (meaning the charger) will pull what it requires and nothing more.
Basic electronics 101 here: two things that matter with respect to smartphone chargers (or most any device, to be honest) - amperage aka current and voltage.
Voltage is pushed from a power supply meaning it will always be the same amount, give or take micro-variations. If it's a 5VDC power supply (of any kind) it's designed to provide 5VDC constantly. If it's some other value, say 9VDC, 12VDC, and so on, that's how much it pushes - if you were to connect a 9VDC charger to a smartphone or other device that's designed for a 5VDC input, you'd fry the electrical circuits in the device because it would be flooded with more power than it's designed for.
Amperage aka current is pulled from a power supply and only what is required is what's actually taken. With respect to smartphones, most of the higher end devices these days can make use of roughly 1.2 to 1.8 A (read as Amps) when it comes to charging. This means if you had a charger that output 5VDC (from what I just said above that's the standard worldwide for such devices as smartphones) but could theoretically provide 5A of current, the smartphone technically would not be damaged because it would only pull roughly 1 to 1.8 Amps at most - if you do use CurrentWidget and you plug in the G2 and look at the reading while it's charging, you'll note that the level of amperage/current being pulled from the charger fluctuates like crazy - voltage stays constant (give or take a microvolt here and there) but the current will jump all over the place, especially if you enable the "Smart Charging" feature of the G2.
The reason this happens is because when a LiIon battery is pretty low on a charge, say down to 10-15%, it's "gone deep" as the saying goes and the charging circuit will pull the max amperage/current that the charger is capable of producing and that can be measured/seen using CurrentWidget. As the battery gets into the 90% full range, the amperage/current draw will reduce (again, especially with the Smart Charging enabled) as the battery gets towards being totally full. This is a good thing in most every respect and it keeps the LiIon battery in good shape too - if it pulled the max current till it was 100% it wouldn't necessarily be so good and would heat the battery up more than necessary and LiIon batteries are very sensitive to temperature variations.
Hence, phones get fried by "cheap Chinese chargers" a lot of times because of voltage issues and faulty voltage regulators, not from amperage/current problems. It's actually kind of difficult to kill a device with amperage/current, but screwing around with the voltage will destroy a device almost 100% of the time and quite fast too.
Also, this is the reason why you'll see a phone charge relatively quickly to the 99% point then it seems to take even longer to get that last 1% to finish it off at 100% - it's the way LiIon charging technology works and helps the battery lifespan (meaning how long the battery is useful for measured in years and not "battery life" in terms of how long it can run before you have to charge it again measured in hours). The charging process "slows down" as it gets close to being full which works great for this kind of technology.
Hope this info helps...
br0adband said:
Basic rule of thumb: the Qi wireless charging pad can use all the amperage/current it can get, with at least the factory LG 1.8A charger being what I'd call the bare minimum (and with that you'd probably be able to push about 900 to 1000 mAh (aka 1A) to the device. Qi hardware is roughly 40% efficient so, you're going to lose a lot in the process as stated; the more you start with the more that gets to the device even accounting for the inefficiency.
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Okay let me see if I understand this correctly. The OUTPUT of the qi charging pad could be 1000mAh, but since the wireless QI hardware is only 40% efficient, the actual charge rate will be more around mAh to 500mAh? Im recording an actual charge rate of 500mAh and my phone states it is on AC power and not USB.
If the receiver on the phone states it can do up to 1000mAh, what I need to find is a charger that outputs a lot more like 2000mAh and at 40% efficiency I might be able to get around the 1000mAh?
That pretty much sums it up, yep - as long as you account for the inefficiency of the Qi charging technology, you can get faster charge times and still use it without having to plug in/unplug, etc the old fashioned way.
It works, it's just not nearly as fast or efficient as the old fashioned way so, give the Qi pad plenty of current and you'll be fine - since it will pull what it needs, using a 1.8A or 2A or even more won't hurt it, but it will make it pretty damned warm to the touch when it's charging so keep that in mind. As the G2 would be sitting on top of the Qi pad, if the pad gets warm or even hot then obviously the G2 will as well by heat transfer and heat/high temps are bad for LiIon batteries as I mentioned earlier.
It's a trade-off more than anything else but again, it does work as long as you're understanding the hows and whys to make the best of it.
br0adband said:
That pretty much sums it up, yep - as long as you account for the inefficiency of the Qi charging technology, you can get faster charge times and still use it without having to plug in/unplug, etc the old fashioned way.
It works, it's just not nearly as fast or efficient as the old fashioned way so, give the Qi pad plenty of current and you'll be fine - since it will pull what it needs, using a 1.8A or 2A or even more won't hurt it, but it will make it pretty damned warm to the touch when it's charging so keep that in mind. As the G2 would be sitting on top of the Qi pad, if the pad gets warm or even hot then obviously the G2 will as well by heat transfer and heat/high temps are bad for LiIon batteries as I mentioned earlier.
It's a trade-off more than anything else but again, it does work as long as you're understanding the hows and whys to make the best of it.
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I ran the battery down to 70% and I have it on the charger with a 2a wall adapter. I will see how fast it charges. But it seems like I will get roughly 1/3rd the charging speed of a wall adapter. Which means in the car using gps with the screen on and QI chrarging will probably mean a negative overall power situation.
Im also going to try a high speed, charging only cable like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009W34X5O/ between the wall adapter and the charging pad to see if there is any difference.
Don't waste your money, that thing is no better than a "Gold Plated 56K Modem Cord," seriously. Gold plating, "high speed," all that stuff is marketing BS and means absolutely nothing in the long run - it's a microUSB cable, nothing more.
In 20+ years of using USB cords of all kinds I've yet to see one that's corroded so, that gold plating is not gonna matter anyway.
Any microUSB cable you can find today is more than capable of handling ~2A without a single issue and it's well known that the G2 can max out at 1.6A draw for charging anyway so any cable is more than adequate for doing it.
br0adband said:
Don't waste your money, that thing is no better than a "Gold Plated 56K Modem Cord," seriously. Gold plating, "high speed," all that stuff is marketing BS and means absolutely nothing in the long run - it's a microUSB cable, nothing more.
In 20+ years of using USB cords of all kinds I've yet to see one that's corroded so, that gold plating is not gonna matter anyway.
Any microUSB cable you can find today is more than capable of handling ~2A without a single issue and it's well known that the G2 can max out at 1.6A draw for charging anyway so any cable is more than adequate for doing it.
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Hah! I already have one I use in the car
shaxs said:
I ran the battery down to 70% and I have it on the charger with a 2a wall adapter. I will see how fast it charges. But it seems like I will get roughly 1/3rd the charging speed of a wall adapter. Which means in the car using gps with the screen on and QI chrarging will probably mean a negative overall power situation.
Im also going to try a high speed, charging only cable like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009W34X5O/ between the wall adapter and the charging pad to see if there is any difference.
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Okay I was able to maintain neutral power with the screen on and running gps. Let it go for almost 2 hours and it was at the same percentage as when I started. Im good with that for car use.
i heard the battery get totally broken after one year of using the original 25W charger , what is ur experiences ? does ur phone over heat too when charging does it get to 50-60 C degrees?
I've been charging mine with the turbo charger since day one, it's been fine. There is technology built in to monitor the battery temps and ramp down the charge speed as the battery gets full. I've had my phone for 16 months now.
Max temp I get is 42-44c
Sent from my XT1580 Hammer using Tapatalk
same here : 15 months with my MXF the 25w turbo2 charger.
Battery never go over 45° in charge, battery life still as good as the first day
In my car I have the Moto 25w charger. With navigation and other apps running the temperature rises to about 46 degrees. At this point the charge rate drops. Only if my telephone is at the cool air and out of its cover does the charging rate remain at the full turbo charge rate
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Alimataei said:
i heard the battery get totally broken after one year of using the original 25W charger , what is ur experiences ? does ur phone over heat too when charging does it get to 50-60 C degrees?
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Not so much that the battery fails. The connector (which is kind of crucial for QC 2.0/3.0) or the charge controller craps out. Battery's fine. Was fine when I did my swap out for charge failure. It's not the battery, which people incorrectly presume is the problem- the charge system is a feedback loop process running in the background while the OS is running. When you're dead, down, no charge in the battery, the device only draws USB 2.0 power levels, 500mA, until the OS can come up enough to manage the charging. Part of the reason they do this is because you're using a USB connection to charge with and unless you've got the 1.5 A USB charge slot or an AC charger with the ability to source up to 2.4 A of juice, trying to pull that much current will wipe your USB port on a PC/Laptop/etc OUT. This is just with traditional charging. Turbo/QuickCharge charging is about raising the voltages over the USB 2.0 lines on a cable to up to 12v as opposed to 5, to allow you to jam a bit more current through the lines and to the device, effectively doubling the power being fed to the charge system. Problem with that is that you REALLY need the OS up and running to manage that. It requires info from the Charge Controller chip that is handshook from the charger.
If your charge controller is damaged, or if the cable doesn't have clean data and power lines, it just simply WON'T WORK. It will just USB mode charge until you fix the "problem"- either of which requires Lenovo to re-work the board...if it's even possible to fix. USB charging takes forever with this class of device- because the battery is a huge tank of juice compared to the devices of old. So it "looks" like the battery got "broke".
Having said this, there's about 20-40% of the units out there, depending on the crowd you listen to, that have a defective charge controller system and the phone flat-out won't ever go into any mode other than USB.