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Hello everyone I am trying to create a guide for buying new Battery for HD2 and trying to make my mind by asking to the people who had experience with different batteries.
When enough of responds will be collected I will change the posts to be a guide & table for deciding.
Questions are:
What capacity do you use in mAh?
Do you have any problems, such as:
Does your OS (WinMo, WP7, Android, Ubuntu, etc...) have any problems for displaying its level? Does it having irregular shutdowns/resets?
Does it heat much with regular 1000 mA stock charger?
Does it behave different? Such as it receives invisible random touches on screen. (I had it when I plugged it to 5,2V USB charger instead of 5V)
Has your usage time improved according with the same times your capacity improved?
Did you tried any other Ampere for charging other than 0,5 A or 1 A? How effected it your battery heat and charging time?
My short research about HD2 batteries
I have searched eBay with HD2 battery and I came up with these levels of capacities (each in mAh)
2600*
2400*
2200*
1600
1350
1300
1230-->This is the stock value.
1200
1050
* is extended battery, which means it does not fit into regular back cover. Most of the options come with new back cover for extended battery.
When it is with extended battery cover, it will not fit into regular HD2 cases. If you do, you should consider buying a case for it.
In terms of asking about the heat, I do not mean exact temperature. What I mean is, is it safe to use. It may cause explode, it may corrupt your device, it may also harm you. I do not think and trust non-original battery sellers act according to safety issues of the customer.
Please reply to this topic if you are using non-standard Charger and/or Battery.
I want to also type which levels of chargers are safe to use in each level battery capacity.
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Hello,
i ve been searching for a way to extend the autonomy on the a501.
do you think i can use a cheap 12V lithium battery to charge it or take over when the internal battery is depleted ?
i m not very knowledgeable in electronics, i wouldnt want to damage the internal battery.
there seem to be very few commercial products that would fit this tablet and i m not really interested. i dont have 50$ for a +2h battery life --;
i was thinking of buying a 12V 5000mAh something battery from china and solder the appropriate DC connector on it, but im wondering if there are issues like, the Current needs to be stable at 1,5A or i might reduce the internal battery durability, things like that.
can anyone answer that ?
It's more complicated than that. The power supply probably has a circuit to regulate the flow of energy to the tablet, perhaps the tablet itself also has a circuit that works together, I don't know.
Short answer: buy a second power adapter
There are backup battery/chargers. Scosche goBAT for example.
Just Google around to find the best fit for you.
GullyFoyle said:
There are backup battery/chargers. Scosche goBAT for example.
Just Google around to find the best fit for you.
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Click to collapse
How would that work? Does the goBAT include a charging tip compatible with the A500?
Hello,
thanks for dropping by
its not helping really this is bs
power cat you say "probably" regulates the current. yes that is what i wrote that is what i hoped someone would clear up for me. i dont see how buying another wall charger is going to help me extend the tablet autonomy i would just as well carry the original one around.
gullyfoyle same sideways reading of the OP i would not pay 80$ for a marketed battery/charger.
i hope there are still people out there who can give an educated answer :/
this guy for example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqxhEkDGkbg he says he learned it the hard way (bricked his phone?) because he put 4x(1.5V?) batteries to charge his iphone without the resistors (to get the voltage from 6V down to 5V?)
so there again, can there be issues with the discharge current rate or is it something about lithium batteries behaving differently from alkaline ones ?
i think i ll go ahead and try anyway. worst case scenario the battery will just sit there not putting out anything.
Why wouldn't you pay $80 for a backup battery charger. It was just an example. I'm sure you can find one cheaper after Black Friday, or even with a bit of Googlefu.
We aren't talking about normal chargers but portable charge devices.
http://www.scosche.com/consumer-tech/product/2073
For anyone in need of extra power, the goBAT II provides an innovative solution to the dreaded ‘low battery’ warning. The goBAT II is a powerful backup battery and dual port charger for your mobile devices. The internal 5000mAh ion battery will keep your devices going long after they normally would.
Advantages and Applications
A drained iPhone 4 can be charged 2.6 times with a fully charged goBAT II. An iPad can be charged up to 55% of full charge. This is the ideal battery for long commutes, airport travel and camping.
The goBAT II provides 2 USB charging ports that can be used at the same time. A 2.1 Amp port gives you the ability to charge mobile devices including tablets (iPad and Samsung Galaxy Tab). An additional 1.0 Amp port lets you charge your additional devices (iPhone, iPod, etc.).
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Click to collapse
Remember this is JUST AN EXAMPLE. The idea is to show these devices exist and are available for purchase.
http://www.engadget.com/2011/02/23/scosches-gobat-ii-portable-battery-pack-handles-two-usb-devices/
We'll just keep it real simple for you: the object you're looking at above is the Revive II charger, but slimmer, and with a rechargeable battery pack thrown in rather than a wall / cigarette adapter. Got it? Good. The goBAT II contains a 5000mAh rechargeable lithium ion battery, and it offers a pair of USB ports for charging. One's a 10-watt (2.1 Amp) port capable of handling high-maintenance devices like Apple's iPad, while the other is a more conventional 5-watt (1 Amp) socket. Scosche is also throwing in a USB adapter for the Galaxy Tab, theoretically letting those with divided households charge both an iOS and Android tablet at the same time. Brain melting, we know. It also works with the company's Revive charging app, which indicates how long a device will take to charge on any of Scosche's chargers and can also be configured to send an email notification once a device has been fully charged. She's all yours down at the source link for $89.99
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Click to collapse
See, others deem it "BRAIN MELTING".
And the cost of that type of thrill is reasonable, for the job it does.
But I can understand how someone would encourage another person to experiment with the guts of electronics they don't fully understand. Screw it up and you can always buy a new one.
Then again, you could buy three or four Gobats and save all the fuss and bother.
mr.bryce said:
Hello,
thanks for dropping by
its not helping really this is bs
power cat you say "probably" regulates the current. yes that is what i wrote that is what i hoped someone would clear up for me. i dont see how buying another wall charger is going to help me extend the tablet autonomy i would just as well carry the original one around.
gullyfoyle same sideways reading of the OP i would not pay 80$ for a marketed battery/charger.
i hope there are still people out there who can give an educated answer :/
this guy for example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqxhEkDGkbg he says he learned it the hard way (bricked his phone?) because he put 4x(1.5V?) batteries to charge his iphone without the resistors (to get the voltage from 6V down to 5V?)
so there again, can there be issues with the discharge current rate or is it something about lithium batteries behaving differently from alkaline ones ?
i think i ll go ahead and try anyway. worst case scenario the battery will just sit there not putting out anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will break your tablet.
The charger contains a complex integrated circuit. Sticking on a few resistors isn't gonna do ****.
Look at this for example, a simple wind generator has a complex charging circuit to regulare all the power:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How...nd-turbine/step8/Build-the-charge-controller/
Just google "how to make a charge controller" it's really not as simple as you think.
Quote from the site:
The general principal behind the controller is that it monitors the voltage of the battery(s) in your system and either sends power from the turbine into the batteries to recharge them, or dumps the power from the turbine into a secondary load if the batteries are fully charged (to prevent over-charging and destroying the batteries).
ok thanks ^^
now i understand that part
Short answer: buy a second power adapter
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Click to collapse
you are saying the overcharge controller (and other safety features) are all in the wall charger and are not integrated in the tablet.
so if i really really wanted to try i could plug any battery between 12 and 24V to this little guy couldnt i ?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/220826123824#ht_3149wt_1163
As far as I know...as long as the voltage is correct (eg 12 volts) and the power adapter can produce the required amperage (1.5A) then the tablet will only take the current it can use.
So even if the power adapter is capable of producing 10A say, it doesn't mean it's forcing the 10A onto whatever is connected to it. If you use 1.5A (and if there was a way to connect multiple devices to it) you would still have 8.5A of current you could still take.
Oh the charge regulator would not be in the power adapter, that would be a very stupid design. It would be in the tablet it self to regulate how much charge it requires. I don't know of any power adapter that takes feedback from what it's charging to regulate the current.
It's the same with laptops, that's why you can buy universal laptop chargers when the one you have breaks, you just need to make sure it can supply enough amperage to power your device.
The power adapter is just a simple device that converts 110-240v 50/60hz voltage to 12v and upto whatever amperage it is designed for.
Power plugs in the house are designed at 110-240v to a maximum of 2400W (so ~20a for 110v and 10a for 240v) do you think whatever you plug into it uses up 2400W of electricity at once? No, it just takes what it is required (amperage), that's why you can plug a power strip with like 2-10 additional plugs without any problems unless if try to take more than 2400W in total.
Basic high school physics should of taught people this.
first sensible answer i get thank you daemos i m just not gonna take any chances considering the lithium technology and the fact they could use a "stupid design" for shorter gadget lifespan. if anyone has ever modded a car charger i d love to read about it.
mr.bryce said:
first sensible answer i get thank you daemos i m just not gonna take any chances considering the lithium technology and the fact they could use a "stupid design" for shorter gadget lifespan. if anyone has ever modded a car charger i d love to read about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lithium ion batteries must be charged at a very specific voltage. So all charging regulation mechanisms would need to be inside the tablet.
I'm pretty sure the ones inside the tablet are definately below 12V so anyone thinking that the AC adapter has any fancy mechanisms to detect feedback, and regulate charge and control the voltage given to the Li-ion cells is incorrect.
Is it safe to use one of THESE to charge or run the tablet?
They also have a 6800mAh ver.
WOW YOU MEN Complicate everything
SIMPLE EASY .. Look at the output voltage of the the power brick for the iconia.. the part that you plug into the wall..
got something that OUTPUTS 12V AT 1.5 AMPS and you are done.. the Li Batteries as in all LI BATTERIES HAVE THERE OWN charging regulators in them.
The reason for this is because if a Battery is drained to a low state it will GET HOT AND OVERHEAT.. NI-CD Batteries can take and handle this heat.. Li batteries become a mini bomb at these temps.. So the are self regulating.. This can be proven by getting a cordless drill hold the shaft from running.. the drill will heat up the battery the device will STOP FUNCTIONING.. Remove the battery and put it back in . it will work again..
Now with that said.. most Li devices say make sure you have 20% or more battery life before flashing and so on.. This is because the DEVICE WILL NOT RUN On the power port. the port only connects to the battery. and in some cases the display lighting.. My cell is this way. if i run the battery until its dead or using gps on it. it will drain the battery faster then it can charge . causing it to not work until you charge it for 5 minutes or so.. this would assume that using a external battery to charge it .. the external batteries themselves would need to be more then 12 volts and atleast double the amps.. then regulated to the 12v 1.5 amps . think of this like pooring water thru a funnel.. to maintain the 12v 1.5 amps. You can test my theory by taking the battery out of your cell phone and trying to run it just on the power adaptor only.. I KNOW MINE WILL NOT RUN.. however if it has older battery technology it will..
Is it possible/safe to connect an external battery of same voltage but different mAh directly to the internal battery of a tablet to raise its mAh?
I am thinking about moding a tablet case to have a built in battery pack for my Iconia a500 tablet. I can easily squeeze 4 cell phone batteries in between the folds and make two 3.6v 3000mAh(or higher) battery pack with out adding much bulk or weight to it. can probably squeeze a usb hub in there too while i am at it.
I looked at the internal battery and it looks like i can splice its wires and add a connector to hook to the two 3.6v packs for easy connection.
I don't know much about electronics, but from my limited knowledge and layman point of view, as far as the tablet is concerns, it will just have a higher capacity battery, wont it?
can it be done safely without any other electronic components?
I'm not expert in that matter, but I think there's LiIon battery, and AFAIK it may make some confusement to your Fuel Gauge IC and Battery Charging IC, as these are probably calibrated to work with that certain battery type and capacitance. But I don't believe it may damage something if you connect it paralelly.
I would be careful with that if I were you. While it seems simple enough, batteries are much more complex than just voltage and capacity.
Most of the time, external batteries just go through the charging connection of the device so it can handle the power itself. If you connect it directly, you may bypass some part of the charging circuit (often times there's a circuit in the battery itself). Basically, I'm thinking the batteries may not fully charge or one will overcharge. It really depends on how it's set up. I'm not an expert with the design of rechargeable batteries though, so it may be safe.
In short, I would suggest connecting the batteries to the charger to extend your battery life. I'm sure others can offer additional insight.
A good read about batteries: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/serial_and_parallel_battery_configurations
I can't comment on if it will work or if it is safe..
cellphone batteries have a built in protection to prevent them from overcharging or discharging, don't they?
The problem i have with connecting to the charging port is that it needs 12v. connecting 3 or 4 of battereis will give me either too little or too much volt. cant get 12v out of 3.7v batteries with out some kind of additional electronic parts to regulate the voltage. I don't have the sufficient knowledge to do that. this is why i figured ill do it directly. And charging would be simpler too if i can use the charger to charge both the internal and the external batteries at the same time.
Was hopping to hear from someone who did that already. I guess no one is brave/dumb enough to try it.
Sounds intresting looking forward for it
In a "perfect" environment this would be possible.
The inner resistance and voltage difference of the different batteries would even out the different capacity while charging.
You can avoid having these currents between the batteries by using diodes to separate the charging currents.
However my recommendations in terms of reliability, safety and efficiency is to use two or more batteries with the same capacity and dis-/charging curve.
is it the phone or the battery that cuts current when the battery is fully charged?
ridethisbike said:
is it the phone or the battery that cuts current when the battery is fully charged?
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On most phones tablets etc. it's the device that cuts off the charging current when the battery is fully charged.
However nearly ever batteries has also a protection circuit that cuts off the battery in case of
under, over voltage and over current, sometimes even over temperature.
samotronta05 said:
On most phones tablets etc. it's the device that cuts off the charging current when the battery is fully charged.
However nearly ever batteries has also a protection circuit that cuts off the battery in case of
under, over voltage and over current, sometimes even over temperature.
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Click to collapse
ah, well it seems to me that if the battery has to take action, then you're doing it wrong.
I'm not sure exactly how diodes work so I can't comment on that, but definitely use like batteries (two 3000mAh batteries as opposed to one 3000mAh and one 3600mAh) as to not confuse the device about the charge, causing the 3600 to not get fully charged. just make sure they get connected properly (in parallel) and it should work just fine.
in reality its no different than someone using 4 car batteries to power their car audio system. as long as its done properly (in parallel), there is really no harm.
I wouldn't recommend it. While technically it is something that you can do like other posters have said the internal power system is configured in a particular matter. It is likely that the regulation and protection are minimal if they only expect the internal battery. There is also the issue of charging, if you did as you say, you would be discharging the batteries into each other if they weren't exactly at the same levels. So this isn't the recommend method.
What I would recommend you do is put them together so you get something over six volts (two 3.6V packs in series) and put a 5V regulator on it. Then connect it to a USB cable and charge through there. That way you utilize the systems built in protection, aren't messing with the battery connections and can swap it in much easier.
You can... as far as u meet these requirements.
1) notice ur original battery voltage..
2) buy some same kind of them, or u may use others, provided the voltage is same. If u can find higher watt-hour( current) battery of same voltage, go for it.
3) never mix up different amp/ voltage rated batteries together. Ie if u have 3.7v 3200ma batt, and planning to add one more batt in parallel to it go for another 3.7v 3200ma , and not 3.7v 1500ma or 3.5 v 3200ma batt.
4) if u cant find a higher capacity batt of same voltage, go for parallels. Ie join together the positives of two or more batt, and also join together their negatives too.. connect it to the batt terminals of tab,
5) no problems will be caused if u use high current batt, provided u have suited the correct voltage. In ur case u have to ensure proper voltage only. And current can increase to any value.. the system takes only what its needed.
6) the sad thing is it will take more time for charging. But never try to increase the charging current. It will damage the power section. But increase ur patients. Most of the tabs got 1-1.5 amp charger. Never increase the limits.
U may go for it. If u can manage these...
Sent from my HD2 using XDA App
giritrobbins said:
I would recommend it. While technically it is something that you can do like other posters have said the internal power system is configured in a particular matter.
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Yes, to charge with a constant current until a certain voltage is reached.
giritrobbins said:
There is also the issue of charging, if you did as you say, you would be discharging the batteries into each other if they weren't exactly at the same levels.
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Click to collapse
Yes, this is the main problem and it's also the reason i recommended using two batteries with the same capacity. Otherwise the constant charge and discharge depending on the size of the difference between the batteries makes the system very inefficient.
giritrobbins said:
What I would recommend you do is put them together so you get something over six volts (two 3.6V packs in series) and put a 5V regulator on it. Then connect it to a USB cable and charge through there. That way you utilize the systems built in protection, aren't messing with the battery connections and can swap it in much easier.
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Click to collapse
Which would make it even more inefficient.
showlyshah said:
3) never mix up different amp/ voltage rated batteries together. Ie if u have 3.7v 3200ma batt, and planning to add one more batt in parallel to it go for another 3.7v 3200ma , and not 3.7v 1500ma or 3.5 v 3200ma batt.
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Click to collapse
You can mix up different batteries when the voltage is the same, however this is not a the recommend way, since you will not encounter much gain in capacity.
The in terms of capacity smaller battery will be charged by the bigger one all the time.
However if you say i don't care about the efficiency then you can mix up for e.g. a 3.7v 3200mAh and a 3.7v 3000mAh battery.
samotronta05 said:
Yes, to charge with a constant current until a certain voltage is reached.
Yes, this is the main problem and it's also the reason i recommended using two batteries with the same capacity. Otherwise the constant charge and discharge depending on the size of the difference between the batteries makes the system very inefficient.
Which would make it even more inefficient.
You can mix up different batteries when the voltage is the same, however this is not a the recommend way, since you will not encounter much gain in capacity.
The in terms of capacity smaller battery will be charged by the bigger one all the time.
However if you say i don't care about the efficiency then you can mix up for e.g. a 3.7v 3200mAh and a 3.7v 3000mAh battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The issue when you connect them like that will always occur when they are in parallel (you need to add some logic or some diodes in there). Using the same ampacity battery will mitigate it to a point but the internal resistance of a battery will dictate how fast it drains down.
As for the charging, that isn't what i am saying. The internal circuitry that he cannot change is expecting a certain battery with certain characteristics. Putting a second battery in there in parallel will potentially mess with that stuff. If it doesn't realize the size of all the attached battery it will register a fault because it won't be charging correctly.
He isn't going for efficiency here. And a linear regulator is easy, if we want efficient we can do that too. I was just suggesting an alternative that could be easily done.
And the most important point is not about voltages but about chemistry. Different chemistry have different voltages and different knees where they drop suddenly.
The original battery is 7.4v 3350mah. and the charger is 12v 1.5a.
so matching or passing that with batteries I can fit in the space I want it to fit in is a problem.
I was going to use 4 i9000 1500mah batteries, which would fit perfectly, to make a 7.4v 3000mha. but that would be lower then the original. i guess i can try to find higher capacity batteries that i can fit in the case
But if i understand it correctly, the current will keep flowing from the larger capacity battery to the lower one, it will keep them at 100% until the original will drop to lets say 3000mah and then they will all drain at the same rate until they are all empty. and when i charge them, the charging circuitry will get its information only from the original battery, so it will keep charging until the original is full. it may not be as efficient, but it should still get me a significant boost, wouldn't it.
I suppose I could connect them all to make a 14.8v 1500mha with a 12v regulator and use the charging port, but that will leave me with the problem of charging the external pack. no idea how to do that. how do i cheaply and safely charge a 14.8v battery pack?
ronkoni said:
The original battery is 7.4v 3350mah. and the charger is 12v 1.5a.
so matching or passing that with batteries I can fit in the space I want it to fit in is a problem.
I was going to use 4 i9000 1500mah batteries, which would fit perfectly, to make a 7.4v 3000mha. but that would be lower then the original. i guess i can try to find higher capacity batteries that i can fit in the case
But if i understand it correctly, the current will keep flowing from the larger capacity battery to the lower one, it will keep them at 100% until the original will drop to lets say 3000mah and then they will all drain at the same rate until they are all empty. and when i charge them, the charging circuitry will get its information only from the original battery, so it will keep charging until the original is full. it may not be as efficient, but it should still get me a significant boost, wouldn't it.
I suppose I could connect them all to make a 14.8v 1500mha with a 12v regulator and use the charging port, but that will leave me with the problem of charging the external pack. no idea how to do that. how do i cheaply and safely charge a 14.8v battery pack?
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Click to collapse
Hey why are u going to make a 14.8v batt pack when urz original ones are 7.4??? I dont realy understand the logic. If u have extra batt, then make the pack like this
Batt pack of 7.4v × 2 and connect them in parallel, thatz all, no need to modify charging circuits, no need to regulate the voltage, and no loss in voltage/ current,
But if u make a high voltage pack, u have to regulate the o/p with some ic, and in turn u will suffer some v/c drop.
Sent from my HD2 using XDA App
i like to connect directly to the battery, but some seem to believe it is not wise if the mAh of the original is higher then the external pack.
The 14.8v pack with a 12v regulator option is for use with the tablet's charging connector which require 12v . A safer option, but leaves me with the charging problem.
ronkoni said:
i like to connect directly to the battery, but some seem to believe it is not wise if the mAh of the original is higher then the external pack.
The 14.8v pack with a 12v regulator option is for use with the tablet's charging connector which require 12v . A safer option, but leaves me with the charging problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-fem...ultDomain_0&hash=item3f0cd836f3#ht_2792wt_902
that actually took me a lot longer to find than I had originally planned... lol. of course.... you're going to have to find the rest of your charger. but that'll be easy with that adapter
So its a about making a batt pack which u can connect to the tab via charging port? And use it like a backup when u r out of power?
If its ur idea, you may tell about the size of the pack, and how long u need to use it( ie backup time), if u do, i will find out the solution, also post ur current batt and charger spec.
And hope i can help with some circuits too..
Sent from my HD2 using XDA App
the idea is to have a battery pack that can fit in between the layers of the stand part of this tablet's case. the available space I want to use is about 2"x9" so since the space is limited, the batteries must be the flat type and be able to get 12v out of them and be able to charge them externally.
this is the original tablet battery and the charger is 12v 1.5a.
4x Samsung i9000 1500mAh batteries fits perfectly. and since i already got 2 extra ones laying around, might as well go with these batteries. unless it is possible to get 12v out of 3 batteries. then i can probably use 3 Samsung note 2500mAh batteries instead.
so, what circuitry do i need to make this thing power the tablet and get charged?
thought about getting one of these battery packs, take it apart and replace its batteries with mine. since it already got the necessary circuitry for regulating the voltage and for charging, it would cut down on the guess work and probably be cheaper to build. i think they use 3 batteries in there which would be better.
Hello,
i have an idea because the battery of my DELL Streak 7 is quite bad. So i thought, if i get another li-ion battery from a notebook for example, i could build it into the device. Would it be detected?
greetz.
I think it should, I mean why not, provided you do the connections properly. 1 thing, the battery specs perhaps must be same or nearly same as the original battery.
What do you mean with specs? I need a more powerful battery so the mAh should be different.
Main problem is:
1) If the Streak uses an in-pack fuel gauge it could be difficult.
2) Getting a battery of the correct dimensions to fit is going to be extremely difficult
However, if you don't mind issues with form factor, you could:
Make a dummy battery from plastic or wood
Run wires out from this dummy battery to an 18650 holder
Put in a protected 18650 - easy, 2-3 AH battery.
Form factor will suck though
Which reminds me, I need to make a dummy battery for my GS2 to measure power consumption.
I solved it with a external battery. But i will think about it in future.
Thanks for the answers
No wonder the Samsung Galaxy battery has such a short duration of power...If you think about it, Duo core 1.2Ghz is even STRONGER than most laptops...and their battery range ( for Laptops ) even EXEEDS 4200 mAh...and here we have a Smartphone with only 1650 mAh...Maybe its because of the bigger 15.6" screen's wattage that it has to pull...
RobinHoodSnr said:
No wonder the Samsung Galaxy battery has such a short duration of power...If you think about it, Duo core 1.2Ghz is even STRONGER than most laptops...and their battery range ( for Laptops ) even EXEEDS 4200 mAh...and here we have a Smartphone with only 1650 mAh...Maybe its because of the bigger 15.6" screen's wattage that it has to pull...
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Click to collapse
Biggest draw in any system in the backlight for the display, phones or laptops. Secong in laptops is non-SSD hard drives while second in phones is wireless transmission (network mostly but bluetooth and wireless as well).
In terms of the battery the biggest spec you have to worry about is Voltage. most devices regulate what comes off the battery to an extent but still requires it to be within a certain range. Basically, matching is the best and definitely don't try to put a 12V battery in a spot which previously had a 3.7V battery! Unless of course you want to see some fireworks (well, atleast some smoke)! :Þ
Wow, i didnt think that anybody will look at this thread
If anybody plans to build a new battery, post it here
onlymojo said:
Biggest draw in any system in the backlight for the display, phones or laptops. Secong in laptops is non-SSD hard drives while second in phones is wireless transmission (network mostly but bluetooth and wireless as well).
In terms of the battery the biggest spec you have to worry about is Voltage. most devices regulate what comes off the battery to an extent but still requires it to be within a certain range. Basically, matching is the best and definitely don't try to put a 12V battery in a spot which previously had a 3.7V battery! Unless of course you want to see some fireworks (well, atleast some smoke)! :Þ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also, only the lowest-power laptops are clocked at 1.2 GHz - and there's MASSIVE differences between old 1.2 GHz laptop CPUs and dual-core Cortex-A9.
TDP of an Intel SU3500 ULV is 5.5 watts - that's in addition to the motherboard chipset and GPU.
TDP of the lowest-power Core i3 is 17 watts
Atoms start at 1.2 watts for the 1.2 GHz single-core Z600 and go upwards from there. Again - add chipset and graphics to that.
Compare to, for example, OMAP4460 - the data I'm seeing indicates a max consumption of around 2.6W for the whole chip - CPU, GPU, and all onchip peripherals (typically found within the motherboard chipset on desktop systems.)
heat dissipation (phone case)
a big mistake people make a lot is charging their phones while their phone casing is on, or even using heavy apps with the phone casing on. Phone case covers the battery and increases heat dissipation thus reducing battery life quickly. take note peeps
exebreez said:
Hello,
i have an idea because the battery of my DELL Streak 7 is quite bad. So i thought, if i get another li-ion battery from a notebook for example, i could build it into the device. Would it be detected?
greetz.
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No man you cant do it.
Very good tip on removing casing from battery to extend life! Mm battery life sucks as is.....I will be enjoying your tip ty
Sent by B rad on my 4G Revolution using XDA
thinking about doing something like this with my desire hd. I have 3 extended 1600mah batteries. I was thinking about modding a case and running wires to the other battery to increase the capacity. Just cutting a battery sized hole in my case would work. The only problem i see is that the if there is a chip on the battery that measures the level. Although i could just rip it out and see how that works. Itd be nice to have a 3200mah battery
Sent from my Desire HD using xda premium
I don't understand why everyone thinks about doing stuff like this. Building batteries is best left to the professionals. They put lots of thought into the design and construction. They include temperature sensors, voltage and current so you can't overcharge, over discharge, or anything in between.
http://www.ladyada.net/library/batteries.html
Why not buy just a large extended battery that is purpose built?
giritrobbins said:
I don't understand why everyone thinks about doing stuff like this. Building batteries is best left to the professionals. They put lots of thought into the design and construction. They include temperature sensors, voltage and current so you can't overcharge, over discharge, or anything in between.
http://www.ladyada.net/library/batteries.html
Why not buy just a large extended battery that is purpose built?
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well for my desire hd you cant get more than a 1500mAh extended battery. 1500mAh being actual size from a trusted brand. So battery life sucks
Sent from my Desire HD using xda premium
stumpyz9 said:
thinking about doing something like this with my desire hd. I have 3 extended 1600mah batteries. I was thinking about modding a case and running wires to the other battery to increase the capacity. Just cutting a battery sized hole in my case would work. The only problem i see is that the if there is a chip on the battery that measures the level. Although i could just rip it out and see how that works. Itd be nice to have a 3200mah battery
Sent from my Desire HD using xda premium
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If your phone uses an in-pack fuel gauge - not worth the hassle.
Some devices, like most Samsungs, use an in-system fuel gauge - the pack has nothing but the basic protection circuits (over/undervoltage lockout, overcurrent/short protection) and sometimes an ID resistor, so if you wire in a larger battery with the same protection circuits (and possibly an ID resistor to the correct pin) it'll work.
DO NOT mess with unprotected Lithium-Ion packs or cells! It's a great way to make them go boom!
The same place giritrobbins linked SELLS prebuilt packs with protection circuitry including purpose-built chargers - http://www.adafruit.com/category/44
Getting any of these to fit in the form factor of an existing device will be next to impossible, but you can use some of the products above to make an external pack for devices that don't put fuel gauge or management circuitry into the pack (such as, as I stated before, most Samsungs).
http://www.adafruit.com/products/353 - that's a pre-matched 3-cell 18650 pack that includes all required protection circuitry. It would be electrically compatible with, for example, the battery in my Galaxy S II (other than not having NFC like my battery does, and someone would have to wire a resistor between the ID contact and ground of a dummy battery to work with a GSII.)
Hi,
any way to accomplish this ? To be more clear, batteries will get a shorter life from the current work regime that I put them to, Unfortunately, the USB data cable of most phones also acts as a charger. I am using the phone for development, so this USB data cable is always attached to the phone and to the dev machine, thus forcing the battery to always charge, even at the slightest 1% discharge. It would be really good if I could take out the battery and still be able to run the phone.
Thank you!
kelogs said:
Hi,
any way to accomplish this ? To be more clear, batteries will get a shorter life from the current work regime that I put them to, Unfortunately, the USB data cable of most phones also acts as a charger. I am using the phone for development, so this USB data cable is always attached to the phone and to the dev machine, thus forcing the battery to always charge, even at the slightest 1% discharge. It would be really good if I could take out the battery and still be able to run the phone.
Thank you!
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Depends on the phone, I know on the moto defy there was a cable mod that would bypass the battery
Sent from my GT-I9300T using xda app-developers app
adamo3957 said:
Depends on the phone, I know on the moto defy there was a cable mod that would bypass the battery
Sent from my GT-I9300T using xda app-developers app
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That would be a Samsung Galaxy Note GT-N7000
i didn't know it is possible!
Some (most?) battery circuits are designed to deal with a dead or shorted battery.
The circuit is not arranged in a direct line between charger, battery, load.
Disconnecting a battery connector also disconnects the temperature-measuring thermistor.
With a NTC thermistor, it would think that the battery is ice cold.
A resistor of the correct value would fool it into believing it's a reasonable temperature.
I tried disconnecting the battery on my Nook and it wouldn't power up.
3,7V supply circuit as battery
You can supply the device with 3,7V (like the battery) from an external source. The only thing bad is that you have to attach wires to the gold plated battery slots on the device, or you can do it with small crocodile clips to avoid soldering. (better)
If you are ok with this, here is how you do it.
Take off your battery and measure voltage DC with a multimeter or voltmeter between battery leads. Now you know what your battery gives to the device. Example for 3 leads battery: you have 2 positive leads with the ground as reference (one slightly lower than the other) and the actual ground. So you have to supply with 3,7V the same leads that the battery was supplying. You can check while inserting the battery back to the device.
Hot to have the 3,7 Volts supply:
You will need 2 resistors, some capacitors, LM317 regulator, heat sink for that and a higher voltage DC power supply 6-12V.
Get and android device and go to play store. Install "Electrodroid" application. This will help you on sizing the LM317 regulator. Have in mind that this is programmable regulator, so you need 2 resistors to set the output voltage as 3,7V. LM317 is a linear voltage regulator, so it will act as uninterrupted 3,7 Volt battery. Be carefull to get a big heat sink, depending on the current you will be supplying and input voltage, also you can read this device datasheet online.
You can build this circuit on a breadboard if you are familiar with electronics or you can solder point to point the parts, or make a pcb if you can.
You're lucky it's N7000
full schemas are there - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813315
PMIC's pin "_DETBAT" is connected to "VF" of battery connector. Perhaps if you pull it high it'll bootup.
And btw - usually HW is fully capable of starting off USB power. The thing is that bootloader does check if battery is present and, if not, turns off the phone. Actually this is because phone, especially during bootup, can peak to much more than 500mA current, and battery is there to compensate "missing" power.
//edit:
However, in case you don't provide any power into battery pins, it might try to charge it and U607 - Switching Charger might not really like working without load. This can generate alot of noise around AFAIK so modding kernel somehow to disable charging would be good choice.
Rebellos said:
You're lucky it's N7000
full schemas are there - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813315
PMIC's pin "_DETBAT" is connected to "VF" of battery connector. Perhaps if you pull it high it'll bootup.
And btw - usually HW is fully capable of starting off USB power. The thing is that bootloader does check if battery is present and, if not, turns off the phone. Actually this is because phone, especially during bootup, can peak to much more than 500mA current, and battery is there to compensate "missing" power.
//edit:
However, in case you don't provide any power into battery pins, it might try to charge it and U607 - Switching Charger might not really like working without load. This can generate alot of noise around AFAIK so modding kernel somehow to disable charging would be good choice.
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Click to collapse
The system is powered off of Vbat - As a result, the charger MUST be active. Also, the N7000 is EASILY capable of drawing more than the maximum input current limit from Vbus, mandating extraction of power from the battery in some operating regimes.
The only way to achieve what the OP wants (total battery removal) would be with a dummy battery that had an external 4.0 volt power supply. Bad Things could happen if the device is connected to USB in this state.
However, to satisfy the OP's stated reasons for removing the battery (lots of time on USB), the likely best solution would be to disable the charging circuitry in the kernel at high states of charge. For example, one could set it up so that the charger would only be enabled when Vbat was below 4.0 volts, or when the fuel gauge SoC is below X per cent. See Ezekeel's "BLX" implementation for the Galaxy Nexus as one example of this.
thanks!
rebellos said:
you're lucky it's n7000
full schemas are there - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813315
pmic's pin "_detbat" is connected to "vf" of battery connector. Perhaps if you pull it high it'll bootup.
And btw - usually hw is fully capable of starting off usb power. The thing is that bootloader does check if battery is present and, if not, turns off the phone. Actually this is because phone, especially during bootup, can peak to much more than 500ma current, and battery is there to compensate "missing" power.
//edit:
However, in case you don't provide any power into battery pins, it might try to charge it and u607 - switching charger might not really like working without load. This can generate alot of noise around afaik so modding kernel somehow to disable charging would be good choice.
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Click to collapse
thanks for the link1
Thank you all for sharing knowledge and experiences. I have made the decision to just go for some cheap ebay replacement batteries due to some advice I got from a friend, which I am sharing below:
Do not fiddle with such a fine piece of hardware (i.e. smartphone) by attaching some exposed wirings to it. The gadget could easily slip from your hands and cause the loosely hanging wirings to short-circuit upon landing on the floor. Definitely not a good perspective.
a
kelogs said:
Thank you all for sharing knowledge and experiences. I have made the decision to just go for some cheap ebay replacement batteries due to some advice I got from a friend, which I am sharing below:
Do not fiddle with such a fine piece of hardware (i.e. smartphone) by attaching some exposed wirings to it. The gadget could easily slip from your hands and cause the loosely hanging wirings to short-circuit upon landing on the floor. Definitely not a good perspective.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh give a f***ing break! It's a phone not an egg shell. And short-circuiting the wires would at worst damage the power supply not the phone.
Entropy512 said:
The system is powered off of Vbat - As a result, the charger MUST be active. .
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Click to collapse
This just isn't true. Modern PMIC not only have the option to stop charging the battery, but to charge the phone only on AC and also do things like send power the the USB OTG. So it is a matter of the PMIC knowing what to do. What I wish was possible was a nice app that told the PMIC to stop charging at 80% and then go to trickle mode. This would save your battery life by a lot, instead it appears to charge to 100% then back off the voltage a little.
bypass battery on unibody phone and run directly from charger
Entropy512 said:
The system is powered off of Vbat - As a result, the charger MUST be active. Also, the N7000 is EASILY capable of drawing more than the maximum input current limit from Vbus, mandating extraction of power from the battery in some operating regimes.
The only way to achieve what the OP wants (total battery removal) would be with a dummy battery that had an external 4.0 volt power supply. Bad Things could happen if the device is connected to USB in this state.
However, to satisfy the OP's stated reasons for removing the battery (lots of time on USB), the likely best solution would be to disable the charging circuitry in the kernel at high states of charge. For example, one could set it up so that the charger would only be enabled when Vbat was below 4.0 volts, or when the fuel gauge SoC is below X per cent. See Ezekeel's "BLX" implementation for the Galaxy Nexus as one example of this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This would just disable the charging until the SoC dropped to the level you set though, correct? I.e. the phone is still running from the battery..? If so you still end up with more or less the same issue (although with some potential benefits depending from cycling at lower SoC).
I have a HTC One X so removing the battery and adding some circuit trickory isn't an option. But bc of this damn unibody even more motivation to run the phone directly from the charger bc I can't feed it with replacement batteries. ( which he is right thats the best options for the OP)
Anyone know if this is even possible with software mods based on the design of the phone charging system? Or any sources for literature on this. I really wanna save this battery if its the only one I got!
I am currently experimenting with this. I suppose I can only get 3 volts from the 5V input of a usb charger. Going to need to hook up to a 12v power source I suppose. Built this power supply, linear variable voltage regulator. Going to still want that data transfer. I am using diodes to make sure no power goes the wrong way into my electrolytic capacitors. I will try to post a thread if it works because I have not seen one yet.
Hello, sorry to post in an old thread, but this is the closest problem to mine that I could find.
So I'm using a 4G mi-fi modem on my PC. It's plugged in constantly 24/7 through USB cable to my PC. You can imagine the effect on the battery. I threw out 2 batteries coz they've gone bad. Sadly the modem won't turn on if it's not detecting a battery.
So I'm considering the capacitor route, just to fool the modem into thinking that a battery is installed, the real power comes from USB data cable anyway. It's a Huawei E5577, the battery got 4 terminals on it. The outermost terminals are (+) and (-), while I'm guessing the middle two are used to read the battery status (voltage, etc). So what's the simplest schematic to achieve this, using simplest capacitor circuit to fool the modem into thinking the battery is installed and working well.
Thank you