Unfortunately my amp (NAD C352) does not have an S/PDIF in, does anyone with a Q that is open right now tell me if they can easily extract the analog signal before it is amplified?
From the pictures I have seen, it looks like there is a ribbon cable with 5 pins that connects to the amp, which looks to include a TI chip (can anyone find the part number?). I assume that the signal is still digital in the ribbon cable and I will have to extract the signal from the PCB(Assuming that TI chip is indeed the DAC).
Edit:
Here are a few more details: wired.com/gadgetlab/2012/06/nexus-q-teardown/?pid=3468
ocran said:
Unfortunately my amp (NAD C352) does not have an S/PDIF in, does anyone with a Q that is open right now tell me if they can easily extract the analog signal before it is amplified?
From the pictures I have seen, it looks like there is a ribbon cable with 5 pins that connects to the amp, which looks to include a TI chip (can anyone find the part number?). I assume that the signal is still digital in the ribbon cable and I will have to extract the signal from the PCB(Assuming that TI chip is indeed the DAC).
Edit:
Here are a few more details: wired.com/gadgetlab/2012/06/nexus-q-teardown/?pid=3468
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could always just use a cheap (<$20) digital to analog converter box. I haven't taken mine apart and hopefully don't find a reason I need to.
bobukcat said:
You could always just use a cheap (<$20) digital to analog converter box. I haven't taken mine apart and hopefully don't find a reason I need to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, something like monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10423&cs_id=1042302&p_id=6884&seq=1&format=2 would of course do the job, but I imagine that the DAC in a $20 part is less than desirable. Perhaps I should invest in a preamp(or receiver) that accepts S/PDIF...
ocran said:
Yes, something like monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10423&cs_id=1042302&p_id=6884&seq=1&format=2 would of course do the job, but I imagine that the DAC in a $20 part is less than desirable. Perhaps I should invest in a preamp(or receiver) that accepts S/PDIF...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Valid point - I have a bit of a similar predictament in that I would like to be able to send the Q music to zone two buy very few AVRs support Digital Inputs to zone 2. I wonder if the options for converting speaker level outputs to line level (mostly for adding amps to factory car audio systems) would be cleaner or not. May just spring for a new AVR too, even though the one I have is only about 5 years old.
I didn't even consider that an AVR wouldn't be able to send a digital input to zone 2(or 3). I'll have to make sure that is the case when I finally break down and pick one up.
My current setup is almost laughable, I've taken my 7.1 sound card and split it into three independent stereo cards for which I use MPD to output to three analog amps to obtain my three "zones". Consolidating to a single receiver would save a lot of space, and idle power(which is huge; the C352 pulls over an amp when not in use).
Yeah, you have to go up the line quite a bit to find an AVR that will send digital inputs to a second zone. Denon, Pioneer and Yamaha (probably others as well) all make one but the cheapest I've found (in limited searches) is about $900.
That $900 one must not have been a Denon. The AVR-2313CI ($899.99) nor can the AVR-3313CI ($1999.99) do it. The AVR-4311CI ($2099.99) can do it with the following conditions:
• When the input source to which the digital input connectors (OPTICAL/COAXIAL) are assigned is selected in ZONE2 or ZONE3, playback is only possible if the digital signal being input is in PCM (2-channel) format.
• It is not possible to play the digital audio signals input from the HDMI or DENON LINK connectors in ZONE2 and ZONE3. Use analog connections for ZONE2 or ZONE3 playback.
Which warrants the question is the Q's TOSLINK PCM when playing music?
Related
I'm currently aching to be able to play my own music through my car speakers, weird place for this yes.. if it's the wrong section to post this please let me know.
But, I was wondering if it's at all possible to feed the phone's audio through the USB.
For example, I have a USB port on my stero in my car, and when I plug it in..i'm able to feed off my SD card to play the music thats on it. But.. I'd like to be able to play pandora as well..which I'm currently unable to do.
Was wondering if this is possible. If i've confused you feel free to ask more questions
XtaC318 said:
Since it isn't possible.. what about an app that allows me to control the music played? I can stream music from the sd, but its got to mount to read therefore I don't have access to the stock music app. Only way to control what's played is the buttons on the stero and its pain staking..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe this is possible. As far as I know, when you use the usb the deck itself is decoding the mp3's (or whatever music files you're using) directly. It doesn't support playing music through the usb, it just uses the usb to get the files. I hope that makes sense...
So is that why I ca never plat music on my xbox whenever I have a phone hookedup to charge? I thought my xbox just didn't play nice with phones
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
XtaC318 said:
I'm currently aching to be able to play my own music through my car speakers, weird place for this yes.. if it's the wrong section to post this please let me know.
But, I was wondering if it's at all possible to feed the phone's audio through the USB.
For example, I have a USB port on my stero in my car, and when I plug it in..i'm able to feed off my SD card to play the music thats on it. But.. I'd like to be able to play pandora as well..which I'm currently unable to do.
Was wondering if this is possible. If i've confused you feel free to ask more questions
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So your car stereo has a USB input but no auxiliary? If so, your best bet would probably be to get an FM transmitter. Like the poster above said, your car's stereo is merely mounting your phone as a mass storage device and reading the mp3 files off the SD card and decoding and playing them locally.
It sees it as you do on the computer, just a drive. The only way to get what you want is to use a source from the phone that plays audio. Head phone jack or Blue Tooth. Your stereo... if it has USB should also have an AUX input or BT. Havn't come across to many that have USB and not an AUX or BT. Its nice though... having Pandora in the car.
If you tell me the Model of the Stereo I can help you out. I have seen a BT to FM Mod. Those are kinda cool. If your in a pinch with a stock stereo.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
a454nova said:
It sees it as you do on the computer, just a drive. The only way to get what you want is to use a source from the phone that plays audio. Head phone jack or Blue Tooth. Your stereo... if it has USB should also have an AUX input or BT. Havn't come across to many that have USB and not an AUX or BT. Its nice though... having Pandora in the car.
If you tell me the Model of the Stereo I can help you out. I have seen a BT to FM Mod. Those are kinda cool. If your in a pinch with a stock stereo.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense. My stero does have an auxiliary port on it, but due to recent events I'm really short on cash lol, was wondering if there was a work around so I'm not limited to my sd for music.
Since it isn't possible.. what about an app that allows me to control the music played? I can stream music from the sd, but its got to mount to read therefore I don't have access to the stock music app. Only way to control what's played is the buttons on the stero and its pain staking..
XtaC318 said:
Makes sense. My stero does have an auxiliary port on it, but due to recent events I'm really short on cash lol, was wondering if there was a work around so I'm not limited to my sd for music.
Since it isn't possible.. what about an app that allows me to control the music played? I can stream music from the sd, but its got to mount to read therefore I don't have access to the stock music app. Only way to control what's played is the buttons on the stero and its pain staking..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope... The phone isn't even connecting to your stereo. When you put it into USB mode so it can read the SD, it unmounted from the phone. Its as if you pulled the SD out and slid it into a card reader. When you pull the plug... It will remount to the phone. You'll notice it scanning for media at the top.
Now when you go BT... You can control it via the stereo or phone, using the Aux you can control it by the phone. "They" could make the phone controllable via USB like an Iphone but they would have to built that into the stereo like they do the Iphones/Ipods. Not likely to happen unless the Galaxy S takes off like IPOD did.
In theory, a rooted Epic with proper kernel support and hacked cable (since they don't exist commercially) can repurpose the data pins on its USB port for left and right analog audio thanks to the Fairchild FSA9480 USB switching chip inside the phone (the same chip enables the USB pins to be repurposed as a serial port with nonstandard voltage levels, enables the normally-unused fifth pin to be used as mic input, enables it to be used with a special "JIG" interface for JTAG reflashing without having to hand-solder anything to the microscopic internal pads, and apparently can also work its magic in conjunction with a chip by Silicon Imaging to use 5 pins to output a signal that can be transformed by a companion chip (embedded in the cable's connector shell) into valid HDCP-compliant HDMI. I'm pretty sure the 9480 can also repurpose the two data pins for external I2C, but don't quote me on it.
Check out the I9000 boards... they're about 2 months ahead of us. If you google for FSA9480, you can find a brief (but revealing) dialogue between a Samsung engineer and the Kernel.org folks regarding a kernel addition to support the chip. He had a few issues, because on one hand he's apparently not allowed to say much about how the chip works or what it does, but the kernel folks managed to wring much of it out of him one juicy detail at a time. If you check Fairchild's site, they don't even acknowledge that the chip EXISTS, but it's been photographed inside all the Galaxy S phones in various teardowns.
In English -- yes, the hardware exists today to connect your phone to a stereo's analog inputs via a cable that repurposes the USB port... but the official software to make it work from Samsung and Sprint doesn't exist, and the information needed to make it work ourselves on a rooted Epic with AOSP isn't quite available yet.
I'm personally quite happy about the uart, because that means we DO have an easy, low-ceremony way to do i/o between something like a gamepad built into a hardcase a-la-iphone-GameBone that doesn't require Bluetooth (note that if something IS using the USB port for UART purposes, the USB port is still active, but the phone sees it as having nothing connected because the signals from the D+ and D- pins are physically re-routed by the 9480 to the CPU's UART pins. Think of the 9480 as being like an old-fashioned telephone panel with cables that can be moved around to connect the USB port's 5 physical pins to different pins inside the phone.
I'm now pretty sure that this is why there are exactly 7 contacts on the microUSB connector inside the phone -- 5 are used to get the pre-HDMI signals out of the phone, and the other 2 (3, if you count the ground/anchor tabs and assume they carry a signal as well in addition to mechanically anchoring it in place) are used to supply +5v and ground, and possibly one wire for half-duplex signaling purposes.
Wow that was a lot of info... lol. I didn't know that about the usb tho. That's good to know. I was thinking of taking it apart to see.
But... I think he's wanting a UI via the USB like the way some players will do for the IPODs, not analog. To go throught all that when the Head Phone jack will do the same... I could only see that if it was broken or if you really really want only one cord to the phone.
; )
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
I've got an Alpine unit, I hook my USB up - turn on the TUNER. Mount the Drive and once the phone is done - swap back over to USB and i can get all my MP3S. sadly I get all of my ringtones too - odd when the radio is full blast and a track changes - none the less works well for me. Try it.
I purchased this Kensington LiquidAUX Bluetooth Car Kit for my phone a few days ago. It works perfectly on my sister's iPod touch (no AVRCP [silly apple]) and an old WinMo 6.1 phone.
I just got my Epic in the mail today so I'll be testing it out soon.
WTF. AVRCP (bluetooth remote control) is really buggy with this phone. I used the LiquidAUX with an old Omnia for a week with no problems. The Epic connects and plays audio just fine. I can also pause and play music but the forward and back buttons don't work. When I first pair the phone with the device everything is fine, but after disconnecting and reconnecting the remote control stops working. I got it to work after un-paring and re-pairing but it only worked once.
The Moment I had before this had really choppy audio.
EDIT: I had the phone opened up in DDMS and the phone is receiving signals from the remote. But it only reacts to them when the media player is on the screen. Weird.
After seeing a video where you can control a parrot AR.Drone 2.0 with the shield I started thinking up ways to control a real car with it.
Probably wont attempt this but I like the idea.
chevyowner said:
After seeing a video where you can control a parrot AR.Drone 2.0 with the shield I started thinking up ways to control a real car with it.
Probably wont attempt this but I like the idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
main problem i see is when shield's battery runs out.
and i wouldn't want to try it until its out beta, otherwise it might lose wifi connection lol
glitchhawk said:
main problem i see is when shield's battery runs out.
and i wouldn't want to try it until its out beta, otherwise it might lose wifi connection lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
most cars have a 12V socket in the cabin somewhere.....
Otherwise, this is doable.
Dependant on the age of the car and its level of security (engine electronics wise) you could either tap into the engine management units, braking and power steering (power steering alone can actually steer the car with no user input, IF the system allows it or can be modified to be controlled externally in that way, same goes for many other areas of the car) or take a direct hardware approach. Some actuators bolted to the pedals and steering wheel could easily be controlled with an arduino which can then pair via bluetooth, wifi or USB to the shield (USB would be cheapest but would prevent charging from the car lighter socket and of course mean you would have to sit in the car and might aswell drive anyway).
Cars controlled via other means have been done frequently anyway. Your only changing where the input comes from. Your idea isn't really that insane, but I wouldnt want to try it.
As for loss of power/signal. You would require some sort of "computer" aboard the car anyway. Even if its just a simple 8 bit arduino, in fact let us assume that it is an arduino UNO R3 for some reason, even that measly little 8bit CPU can be setup easily enough to detect the loss of communications with the Shield and cut the engine, engage brake etc etc.
I have a either a pandaboard es or a rasperry pi model b I can use. I am not planning on being in the car I am planning on mounting a camera about where the drivers head would be and streaming the video form that to the shield.
As for the car I am think about using a gutted 97 camaro for that, and adding a carburated 350 and some automatic trans. the most advanced computer on the car will the one to radio control it.
As far as usb power is needed there are 5 volt dc-dc regulators for cars that supply 1+ amps.
edit
Yes I know I would need to avoid running myself over.
Either one would be adequate.
I'm not a car wizard so couldnt say whether or not that camaro could have its systems directly tapped into by the pi/panda but either one could control actuators mechanically connected to the steering wheel and pedals.
As for the auto transmission, I despise the very idea of an automatic transmission and have never set in the drivers seat of an automatic vehicle let alone driven one (unless you count a 50cc scooter with a CVT). But in the case of a small computer controlling the car, probably a good idea to reduce the amount of things it has to do.
I have a twin USB adaptor in my car, max 2A shared between both sockets although that does appear to mean (with my non scientific tests as I dont own a multimeter, really need to get one actually) that with only 1 port active it can supply 2A to that port. I think it may just be a straight 12v>5v @2A converter with 2 USB's in parallel.
There are plenty of linear actuators available, for the steering a windscreen wiper motor from a truck, a pulley and some sort of feedback mechanism would be possible.
Would be a cool project, if somewhat dangerous if you don't know what your doing But get online, its been done.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
I'm not a car wizard so couldnt say whether or not that camaro could have its systems directly tapped into by the pi/panda but either one could control actuators mechanically connected to the steering wheel and pedals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the car currently has no interior at all
no engine
no transmission
no hood
no side windows
no steering colum
no pedals
it maybe missing some brake parts.
it is gutted.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
As for the auto transmission, I despise the very idea of an automatic transmission and have never set in the drivers seat of an automatic vehicle let alone driven one (unless you count a 50cc scooter with a CVT). But in the case of a small computer controlling the car, probably a good idea to reduce the amount of things it has to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car had a manual trans but it is gone now.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
I have a twin USB adaptor in my car, max 2A shared between both sockets although that does appear to mean (with my non scientific tests as I dont own a multimeter, really need to get one actually) that with only 1 port active it can supply 2A to that port. I think it may just be a straight 12v>5v @2A converter with 2 USB's in parallel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
5v 10a this is more of what i am thinking.
http://www.miniinthebox.com/dc-24v-...own-regulator-car-led-power-buck_p394573.html
Guys who might be able to help you best are probably over at letsmakerobots.com
I am a regular on there although only with 1 submission, 2nd on its way.
I'm no guru and with a project with a potential for some danger I think its probably best to not take anything I say as gospel, other than that it is possible and that the raspberry pi can probably do it (I have already used the pi for running 2 motors with speed control, a servo and ultrasound module with no issues, python plus RPIO).
should i make this
or this
then?
The wife's Versa has integrated iPhail support that allows you to have one plug and it charges the phone and all that as well as change tracks and stuff with the steering wheel buttons. I'm sure you all know what I'm talking about.
Well, she recently got rid of the 4s and got an S4 Active while I have the Nexus 4.
She asked "I wonder if they have one of these cables so I can plug the phone into the car like I did with the iPhail..."
"Nope...can't do that."
"Why not?"
"...uh..."
I really didn't have an answer. I know that that data and audio and all isn't passed through USB like that on Android (not to mention I'm sure "Android" doesn't "speak Apple") but, what I wonder is:
Why not? We send commands to our phones all the time through USB. Reboot, fastboot, bootloader unlock, push files, etc...why wouldn't we be able to change tracks? Why wouldn't the audio be able to come out that way, too?
Just a thought.
Thanks!
Keep in mind that there is no standard for this kind of stuff through USB. It would also require a decent bit of logic on the receiver/car side to implement. Think of how the newer Lightning connector works. It requires active logic to set up the pins correctly since there aren't any dedicated pins anymore like on the old 30 pin dock connector.
Of course, you could always do something like Samsung did on their newer phones and add extra pins to the USB connector that can be used for other logic, but there is no standard for that.
Luckily, Android has supported Bluetooth AVRCP for quite some time now. That's a Bluetooth profile that allows "remote control" of a device. It allows you to change tracks, play, pause, and generally control the device. With Android 4.3, we got version 1.3 of that profile, so supported devices can also display track information.
Hello everyone so I'm doing a full dash replacement. Done a lot of research. I just want to make sure this is pretty much how it goes ? If someone wouldn't mind posting it that would be fantastic. Thanks!
s14.postimg.org/xspgi2rm9/image + .jpg
Fail. Try again.
This should be clickable:
http://s14.postimg.org/xspgi2rm9/image+.jpg
Not my favorite way of doing it but that will work. Don't forget in line fuses where needed.
I never understood the need for hubs and sticks. I mean I have terabytes of music but it's more of a collection and archive. I only listen to a couple of albums at a time so my internal 32gb is more than enough for me. Wireless charging is so much more cleaner. That's just my opinion though.
Take pics of your process along the way and do a build thread as it might help someone else out later.
weedahoe said:
Fail. Try again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
weedahoe said:
Not my favorite way of doing it but that will work. Don't forget in line fuses where needed.
I never understood the need for hubs and sticks. I mean I have terabytes of music but it's more of a collection and archive. I only listen to a couple of albums at a time so my internal 32gb is more than enough for me. Wireless charging is so much more cleaner. That's just my opinion though.
Take pics of your process along the way and do a build thread as it might help someone else out later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please explain better what needs to be changed. You can wirelessly charge these now? All the installs I saw were from a year or two go. Is there better ways to go about this now? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
There are many ways to accomplish the same thing and what you have will work if that's how you want to do it.
My install is not permanent. I can take out my tablet and take it with me. Even though I have other tablets, I don't like leaving my N7 in the truck. Wireless charging is enabled by default. All you need is the charger. For me, since I can take it out, I can take it in the house and transfer anything I want to it or use Airdroid and transfer anything to it wirelessly. Again, with 32gb, it's more than enough for me.
My audio is streamed wirelessly to a bluetooth module which goes to my RCAs which feed my amps. Because I use JetAudio, I have all my EQ and other settings in the software.
Here are some pics of mine
https://www.facebook.com/TrickedOut...21658036467.1073741951.100002259154742&type=1
if you want your tablet to slowly discharge over time in your dash, wireless is the way to go.
if you actually want to keep your tablet charged while using GPS/data/etc, use a cable.
Not true. With mine, Tasker is used to auto turn on both bluetooth and wifi. My brightness is also turned on to full brightness and set to do a few other things. I have never killed my battery by using it with a wireless charger and I have done a few trips out of town that were a couple of hour trips.
I also use an app called Galaxy Charging Current and you can use it to see you are on the (+) side of charging and not in a deficit
mackeystingray said:
if you want your tablet to slowly discharge over time in your dash, wireless is the way to go.
if you actually want to keep your tablet charged while using GPS/data/etc, use a cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So let's say minus the car charger part and I didn't a dc dc converter instead wired to a fuse box would that work too? Do I need a new radio harness for my car ?
And also do I need to know what channel amp I need ? I want to keep stock speakers but know I need an amp for the dac, can I use just a mono block ?
chaserwaser25 said:
So let's say minus the car charger part and I didn't a dc dc converter instead wired to a fuse box would that work too? Do I need a new radio harness for my car ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a DC cig lighter USB plug, gutted it and used the inerds to connect to 12v and allow my wireless charger (or any charger) to connect to. The cig lighter is already a fused circuit. If you are running a wire from the battery, then fuse it.
---------- Post added at 09:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
There are just too many variables for this to answer. You aren't trying to keep the email radio are you? If so, why? The tablet can do radio stations, stored music, movies, Netflix, YouTube, bluetooth calls, ect. Again, I never understood the need for some people to want to keep the OEM head unit.
How many door speakers do you have? Are you going to upgrade them to aftermarket? Any subs? If so, how many?
weedahoe said:
I bought a DC cig lighter USB plug, gutted it and used the inerds to connect to 12v and allow my wireless charger (or any charger) to connect to. The cig lighter is already a fused circuit. If you are running a wire from the battery, then fuse it.
---------- Post added at 09:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
There are just too many variables for this to answer. You aren't trying to keep the email radio are you? If so, why? The tablet can do radio stations, stored music, movies, Netflix, YouTube, bluetooth calls, ect. Again, I never understood the need for some people to want to keep the OEM head unit.
How many door speakers do you have? Are you going to upgrade them to aftermarket? Any subs? If so, how many?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I'm not trying to keep oem head unit trying to do full replacement and I don't plan to upgrade door speakers and MAYBE add a sub later
chaserwaser25 said:
No I'm not trying to keep oem head unit trying to do full replacement and I don't plan to upgrade door speakers and MAYBE add a sub later
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could do a 2 channel amp with the 2 left side door speakers wired in parallel and the right side wired the same. Or you could run a 4 channel amp. Or you could run a 5.1 amp for future sub add-on
weedahoe said:
You could do a 2 channel amp with the 2 left side door speakers wired in parallel and the right side wired the same. Or you could run a 4 channel amp. Or you could run a 5.1 amp for future sub add-on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok cool so a mono won't work then ? Also I mean what so the best way to wore up the power to allow charging and run my usb hubs ? I saw this dcdc to usb from mini box that people say is the best
chaserwaser25 said:
Ok cool so a mono won't work then ? Also I mean what so the best way to wore up the power to allow charging and run my usb hubs ? I saw this dcdc to usb from mini box that people say is the best
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure. You could do a mono is you were really serious about it. Not something I would advise because you have no balance or fade control. But assuming your OEM speakers are 4 ohm, you could wire the two on the left side in parallel to get a 2 ohm load and the same with the right side for another 2 ohm load and then wire both sides in series to get a 4 ohm load again and 1 channel.
Or do it backwards and do each side is series to get an 8 ohm load and then wire both together is parallel to get a 4 ohm load. Like I said, lots of ways to get the same results.
DC to DC via USB can be accomplished with any car charger with a USB post. Keep is simple (and cheap). No need for something like an OPUS Solutions DC power supply. (sarcasm)
weedahoe said:
Sure. You could do a mono is you were really serious about it. Not something I would advise because you have no balance or fade control. But assuming your OEM speakers are 4 ohm, you could wire the two on the left side in parallel to get a 2 ohm load and the same with the right side for another 2 ohm load and then wire both sides in series to get a 4 ohm load again and 1 channel.
Or do it backwards and do each side is series to get an 8 ohm load and then wire both together is parallel to get a 4 ohm load. Like I said, lots of ways to get the same results.
DC to DC via USB can be accomplished with any car charger with a USB post. Keep is simple (and cheap). No need for something like an OPUS Solutions DC power supply. (sarcasm)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appreciate your help first of all. So I guess what would be the easiest way to do this then just a 2 channel or 4? Let me post then and then my next post I'll finally post my supplies with links cause I will be able to.
Nexus 7 2013 32 with t1murs and misc.
Dash kit
90 degree otg - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00932N46S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1402804640&sr=8-1
UBS y otg - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1402804685&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
Usb dac - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI?pc_redir=1402629036&robot_redir=1
Usb hub - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M0NURK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1402804775&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40
Flash drive
Power source - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D8...qid=1402804854&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Will that charger work ? For everything to run correctly ?
Amp- http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007AQ2WXU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1402804924&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Amp wiring kit
Is there anything else you can think of even really minimal cause what I lauded is literally all I got
With a 2 channel amp, all you will have is ether balance OR fade. Can't have both. If you do a 4 channel you can have both and would be configured with the hardware you use and/or software on the device.
The charger you are looking at will work fine but I would look at this one since it is a rapid charger. I personally own two of these and love them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400715271607
Ok I'll change the amp to 4 channel (4$ more ) and is there any better power adapter or will that work perfectly ? I'm just concerned about it charging and also running the Hub along with dac and flash drive
Will I need a radio harness for any reason for my car ?
And are these better power sources ?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088U6OZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1402814900&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006SU0SX0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1402814944&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Hi!
I'm thinking of buying a Shield to centralise my Plex/Netflix/emulators/etc on one device. One thing I'd like to do though is use a set of old Inspire T7900 speakers (7.1, powered) that I have lying around. I don't have a dedicated receiver (and the speakers wouldn't work with it anyway unless they had pre-amp outs), so I'm thinking I might figure out a way of hooking the Shield directly to them -- perhaps through a USB sound card.
Is this possible? Do you know of any usb sound cards that work with the Shield *and* support 7.1? No need for amplification as the speaker set does it itself (because it was originally designed to work with PC sound cards).
I've been poking around and I've come across a lot of people doing stuff with optical USB adapters and even just pulling sound off the USB port because of reasons, but not this kind of setup. Any help will be welcome thanks!
PS: just in case it comes up, yes, I do plan on getting a proper AV receiver at some point, which I will pair with an adequate set of speakers (not these). However, my living room is quite cramped for AV gear as it is; we expect to move to a bigger house sometime in the next 1-2 years and I figure I'll do it then. For now, the T7900 is good enough.