After seeing a video where you can control a parrot AR.Drone 2.0 with the shield I started thinking up ways to control a real car with it.
Probably wont attempt this but I like the idea.
chevyowner said:
After seeing a video where you can control a parrot AR.Drone 2.0 with the shield I started thinking up ways to control a real car with it.
Probably wont attempt this but I like the idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
main problem i see is when shield's battery runs out.
and i wouldn't want to try it until its out beta, otherwise it might lose wifi connection lol
glitchhawk said:
main problem i see is when shield's battery runs out.
and i wouldn't want to try it until its out beta, otherwise it might lose wifi connection lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
most cars have a 12V socket in the cabin somewhere.....
Otherwise, this is doable.
Dependant on the age of the car and its level of security (engine electronics wise) you could either tap into the engine management units, braking and power steering (power steering alone can actually steer the car with no user input, IF the system allows it or can be modified to be controlled externally in that way, same goes for many other areas of the car) or take a direct hardware approach. Some actuators bolted to the pedals and steering wheel could easily be controlled with an arduino which can then pair via bluetooth, wifi or USB to the shield (USB would be cheapest but would prevent charging from the car lighter socket and of course mean you would have to sit in the car and might aswell drive anyway).
Cars controlled via other means have been done frequently anyway. Your only changing where the input comes from. Your idea isn't really that insane, but I wouldnt want to try it.
As for loss of power/signal. You would require some sort of "computer" aboard the car anyway. Even if its just a simple 8 bit arduino, in fact let us assume that it is an arduino UNO R3 for some reason, even that measly little 8bit CPU can be setup easily enough to detect the loss of communications with the Shield and cut the engine, engage brake etc etc.
I have a either a pandaboard es or a rasperry pi model b I can use. I am not planning on being in the car I am planning on mounting a camera about where the drivers head would be and streaming the video form that to the shield.
As for the car I am think about using a gutted 97 camaro for that, and adding a carburated 350 and some automatic trans. the most advanced computer on the car will the one to radio control it.
As far as usb power is needed there are 5 volt dc-dc regulators for cars that supply 1+ amps.
edit
Yes I know I would need to avoid running myself over.
Either one would be adequate.
I'm not a car wizard so couldnt say whether or not that camaro could have its systems directly tapped into by the pi/panda but either one could control actuators mechanically connected to the steering wheel and pedals.
As for the auto transmission, I despise the very idea of an automatic transmission and have never set in the drivers seat of an automatic vehicle let alone driven one (unless you count a 50cc scooter with a CVT). But in the case of a small computer controlling the car, probably a good idea to reduce the amount of things it has to do.
I have a twin USB adaptor in my car, max 2A shared between both sockets although that does appear to mean (with my non scientific tests as I dont own a multimeter, really need to get one actually) that with only 1 port active it can supply 2A to that port. I think it may just be a straight 12v>5v @2A converter with 2 USB's in parallel.
There are plenty of linear actuators available, for the steering a windscreen wiper motor from a truck, a pulley and some sort of feedback mechanism would be possible.
Would be a cool project, if somewhat dangerous if you don't know what your doing But get online, its been done.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
I'm not a car wizard so couldnt say whether or not that camaro could have its systems directly tapped into by the pi/panda but either one could control actuators mechanically connected to the steering wheel and pedals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the car currently has no interior at all
no engine
no transmission
no hood
no side windows
no steering colum
no pedals
it maybe missing some brake parts.
it is gutted.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
As for the auto transmission, I despise the very idea of an automatic transmission and have never set in the drivers seat of an automatic vehicle let alone driven one (unless you count a 50cc scooter with a CVT). But in the case of a small computer controlling the car, probably a good idea to reduce the amount of things it has to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car had a manual trans but it is gone now.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
I have a twin USB adaptor in my car, max 2A shared between both sockets although that does appear to mean (with my non scientific tests as I dont own a multimeter, really need to get one actually) that with only 1 port active it can supply 2A to that port. I think it may just be a straight 12v>5v @2A converter with 2 USB's in parallel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
5v 10a this is more of what i am thinking.
http://www.miniinthebox.com/dc-24v-...own-regulator-car-led-power-buck_p394573.html
Guys who might be able to help you best are probably over at letsmakerobots.com
I am a regular on there although only with 1 submission, 2nd on its way.
I'm no guru and with a project with a potential for some danger I think its probably best to not take anything I say as gospel, other than that it is possible and that the raspberry pi can probably do it (I have already used the pi for running 2 motors with speed control, a servo and ultrasound module with no issues, python plus RPIO).
should i make this
or this
then?
Related
I am looking for something specific, but don't know what … maybe you guys can help me out.
Let me provide some background first. There are special controllers for espresso machines available which act as a PID controller for temperature regulation. To simplify things: They read the temperature of the water and regulate the heating element to a specific temperature with much greater precision than the integrated "mechanical" thermostat is able to.
Today there are kits for various espresso machines available, but they are rather expensive. So I was thinking: Well, what about some homebrew stuff (no pun intended)? I could fit more functionality in there and – here comes the interesting part for the XDA community – connect the controller to my Galaxy Nexus!
My first idea was grabbing some development platform (e.g. Arduino or IOIO), but I'm not sure if this is the right approach. Let me explain what the perfect board can do:
- read two or three temperature probes
- read a water level sensor
- read and control four switches
- provide some kind of CPU for acting as a controller
- provide a clock to "wake" the machine in the morning
- provide a USB connection for controlling from Android and programming/flashing from OS X
- optional: Bluetooth functionality for wireless Android control
I can figure out how to wire the stuff together and how to write some PID software. But the most interesting part will be the Android connectivity, but I have no idea what platform I can use …
It would be awesome to plug a USB cable in (or connect via Bluetooth) and read the live temperature data, start/stop the brewing process and so on. The PID has to regulate the machine without the phone – depending on the switch state (i.e. "pull a shot" or "make steam") the heating element would be regulated.
Of course there are even more interesting applications, like sending a tweet ("I just brewed a coffee!") or a pressure readout …
As far as I understand, I just have to look for a single-board microcontroller with some analogue and digital inputs, some digital outputs and a USB connection. Is this possible with something like an Arduino? Or do I need something more complex?
Hey! Nice to see another homebrewer! They sell chips like that already. People have converted freezers to kegerators, and the chip manages the temp, turning on the freezer around 55 degrees F.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
I would suggest you toying with Android ADK
This is a board you could use is: arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardADK it's a bit pain in the ass to set it up for the first time but once you get used to it it's pretty simple
Freezer? 55 degrees? I'm talking about brewing espresso … The problem there is temperature stability within 1° Celsius.
I already learned more about the Arduino platform and I think it is the right idea for my small project.
As far as I know a bluetooth connection via Android can be established, too.
You should definitely check out a book called;
"Programming Your Home: Automate with Arduino, Android and Your Computer"
Author is Mike Riley.
Publisher is The Pragmatic Bookshelf, Dallas Texas - Raleigh, North Carolina.
I'm pretty sure it's available as an e-book and is full of projects combining these technologies.
The first project has a ball float incorporated in it so I think it's perfect for your idea.
I'm working on a sous-vide immersion circulator at the moment, but it isn't too complex.
A PID controller does all the hard work.
PS
No barista in their right mind would let a machine steam milk!
---------- Post added at 05:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 PM ----------
...almost forgot - ISBN-13: 978-1-93435-690-6
You can pretty much do everything including put the PID into the Arduino. You though will need to create the shield board with the extra sensors you need. Once that is available talking to the Arduino from Nexus is a cake walk. The USB Host and well as USB Accessory mode API is pretty straight forward and you can use either depending on how you want to interface the two. If you use some other microcontroller board other than Arduino then you will probably not be able to use Accessory mode but will have to use the USB Host with the microcontroller board exposed as a CDC class device using the USB as virtual serial port (Atmel, MicroChip controllers provide this interface). Also you will need to hack your Nexus to provide additional power supply (probably using Pogo pins) as USB port will be powering your controller board.
Best of luck!
pankaj013 said:
You can pretty much do everything including put the PID into the Arduino. You though will need to create the shield board with the extra sensors you need. Once that is available talking to the Arduino from Nexus is a cake walk. The USB Host and well as USB Accessory mode API is pretty straight forward and you can use either depending on how you want to interface the two. If you use some other microcontroller board other than Arduino then you will probably not be able to use Accessory mode but will have to use the USB Host with the microcontroller board exposed as a CDC class device using the USB as virtual serial port (Atmel, MicroChip controllers provide this interface). Also you will need to hack your Nexus to provide additional power supply (probably using Pogo pins) as USB port will be powering your controller board.
Best of luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a device that supports OTG/USB Host, a USB-enabled microcontroller is MUCH cheaper than ADK (which requires the accessory to act as a host).
ADK should be described as "DDK" - Dock Development Kit. The requirement for the "accessory" to act as a host and to provide power makes it limited to dock-style devices. True accessories should be powerable from the device.
Adafruit's ATMega32U4 board is a great one to work with - https://www.adafruit.com/products/296
Another option, much more expensive but allows your device to be network-enabled easily (built-in Ethernet) is the BeagleBone. Lots of GPIOs on 0.1" headers and Ethernet.
I would tend to lean towards arduino. It is certainly powerful enough. All the research I have done makes conecting bluetooth really easy. Although serial to android seems a bit more difficult. For the task you are trying to do I would expect a standard arduino (or clone) and a bluetooth module off of ebay (make sure you choose one that can handle 5v) should be a good starting point.
I have only every made diy arduino buy purchasing the usbisp cable and pl-2303 style usb>serial ttl adaptors. If you search on ebay some of them have the dtr line on one of the pins making auto reset easy. They are a bit more rare, but are worth searching for and paying a few dollars more.
I have never done brewing, but fiddle with arduino (atmega8 atmega168 atmega328 atmega644p atmega1284p). Feel free to ask questions.
arjag said:
I would tend to lean towards arduino. It is certainly powerful enough. All the research I have done makes conecting bluetooth really easy. Although serial to android seems a bit more difficult. For the task you are trying to do I would expect a standard arduino (or clone) and a bluetooth module off of ebay (make sure you choose one that can handle 5v) should be a good starting point.
I have only every made diy arduino buy purchasing the usbisp cable and pl-2303 style usb>serial ttl adaptors. If you search on ebay some of them have the dtr line on one of the pins making auto reset easy. They are a bit more rare, but are worth searching for and paying a few dollars more.
I have never done brewing, but fiddle with arduino (atmega8 atmega168 atmega328 atmega644p atmega1284p). Feel free to ask questions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will have to agree on that one, but only by experience.
those chips are a pleasure to deal with.
I even got my tablet talking to mine before I screwed it up!
Hit me up here or on #arduino on freenode (or anyone else there for that matter) if you want any hints or help if you decide to go that route, I'd be happy to help!
DW
You should try Arduino board, it's not that difficult to use and they're plenty of resources on the Internets.
Also, you could develop an Android app for controlling it. My team had successfully developed an Android controlled RC-car via Bluetooth.
You could find the source code of the Android app here on Github!
Another approach might be to get an ethernet shield for arduino and hook it up to your homw network. Then you could use a browser to control it, so you are not just limited to your Android device.
Ethernet setup is really simple, start with the demo code and modify to your needs.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda app-developers app
check out the andropod
Not 100% what you described, but this is absolutely rad nonetheless...
i just saw this the other day: http://www.ftdichip.com/Android.htm
with a standard UART to android usb host in one cable, you can do regular old RS232 or TTL-voltage RS232 comms with practically any of the simplest of the simple mcu's out there.
UART interfacing hardware with your phone? it'd be super easy to write java or shell interface wrappers to do tons of cool automation stuff, plus if you have an old beater phone lying around, it's a super robust DAQ unit in the making...
booooiiinnnniiiiiinnnnnggggg I want...
http://code.google.com/p/tc4-shield/
It's already got a four-channel ADC intended for thermocouple use, as well as GPIOs to drive the SSRs. People have already worked out zero-crossing detectors if you want finer control.
The water probe is a little problematic; I'd stick with the existing Gicar or equivalent.
I'm in the process of using it for thermocouple and power-relay interface to a Raspberry Pi to run a La Marzocco GS I'm restoring.
The Arduino is disappointing in its computational power. Its enough to run a PID, but can't really deal with a TCP stack and a webserver too.
Please note that Arduino can use Bluetooth connectivity to Android. It is easy on Arduino and very convenient.
Arduino can be battery powered for a long time if you program its sleep mode correctly.
http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?35674-HeaterMeter-v4-0-for-RaspberyPi-Standalone
Shouldn't be a far leap from a fan/heating element to a water heating element. Plus: "HeaterMeter is also reportedly suitable for connecting to a solid state relay and controlling a sous vide heater if you prefer your food float around in fancy water instead of smoke and fire."
Arduino (or Msp430 Launchpad, or Microchip Pic or whatever) + a cheap, 6 dollar Bluetooth Serial adapter, + coding an app for android is all you need. Don't mess with usb or ethernet/wifi. Bluetooth Serial is all you need.
also use Android Suit
The wife's Versa has integrated iPhail support that allows you to have one plug and it charges the phone and all that as well as change tracks and stuff with the steering wheel buttons. I'm sure you all know what I'm talking about.
Well, she recently got rid of the 4s and got an S4 Active while I have the Nexus 4.
She asked "I wonder if they have one of these cables so I can plug the phone into the car like I did with the iPhail..."
"Nope...can't do that."
"Why not?"
"...uh..."
I really didn't have an answer. I know that that data and audio and all isn't passed through USB like that on Android (not to mention I'm sure "Android" doesn't "speak Apple") but, what I wonder is:
Why not? We send commands to our phones all the time through USB. Reboot, fastboot, bootloader unlock, push files, etc...why wouldn't we be able to change tracks? Why wouldn't the audio be able to come out that way, too?
Just a thought.
Thanks!
Keep in mind that there is no standard for this kind of stuff through USB. It would also require a decent bit of logic on the receiver/car side to implement. Think of how the newer Lightning connector works. It requires active logic to set up the pins correctly since there aren't any dedicated pins anymore like on the old 30 pin dock connector.
Of course, you could always do something like Samsung did on their newer phones and add extra pins to the USB connector that can be used for other logic, but there is no standard for that.
Luckily, Android has supported Bluetooth AVRCP for quite some time now. That's a Bluetooth profile that allows "remote control" of a device. It allows you to change tracks, play, pause, and generally control the device. With Android 4.3, we got version 1.3 of that profile, so supported devices can also display track information.
Hello,
I would like to hear some opinions about my personal want-sth-to-do project. I want to use NFC to open my house doors, including the front door, garage and bedrooms door. In addition, I want to be able to control my air-conditioning system, TV and audio system. I want to integrate some sort of IP/CCTV cameras into my personal system. Just to improve the system, I will develop a Android App to control it via an API.
So, to make this project possible, come to my mind three ways:
1. [Arduino]
- Using the Arduino and its shields to develop the entire system. It will take a while and be hard in some points such as IPCAM recording.
2. [RaspberryPi + Arduino]
- Using the RaspberryPi connected to some Arduino shields using the GertDuino (GPIO expansion boards that make RaspberryPi compatible with Arduino Shields).
- This options seems to be the best option for now, but I dont know if RaspberryPi is able to handle the entire system.
3. [IOIO-OTG]
- IOIO-OTG is a board that make any android device as the heart of the system, making you just program in Java and control the GPIO and UART.
- The benefit is that I can develop it using some Android Stick, however, I need to search about available shields for it.
In addition, I need to think how to separate the core of the system from the sensors such as nfc readers. I do not think that wiring over the entire house is the best way... but I didn't found any wireless sensors...
Someone want to give some opinion? I will update the thread with the sensors I'm looking around and so...
I'd go the arduino (maybe more than one) + raspberry-pi (maybe more than one) way.
the ioio seems to be some µc that runs a firmware that connects to android and provides all i/o pins to android... so nothing you couldn't do yourself with an arduino or something similar.
I'd start with the devices you want to connect. Air conditioning might be controlled using Infrared emitters - would that work?
NFC Readers can be built from an arduino AFAIK, but you'll need some sort of field bus or wireless connection between all the parts...
SkzBR said:
Hello,
I would like to hear some opinions about my personal want-sth-to-do project. I want to use NFC to open my house doors, including the front door, garage and bedrooms door. In addition, I want to be able to control my air-conditioning system, TV and audio system. I want to integrate some sort of IP/CCTV cameras into my personal system. Just to improve the system, I will develop a Android App to control it via an API.
So, to make this project possible, come to my mind three ways:
1. [Arduino]
- Using the Arduino and its shields to develop the entire system. It will take a while and be hard in some points such as IPCAM recording.
2. [RaspberryPi + Arduino]
- Using the RaspberryPi connected to some Arduino shields using the GertDuino (GPIO expansion boards that make RaspberryPi compatible with Arduino Shields).
- This options seems to be the best option for now, but I dont know if RaspberryPi is able to handle the entire system.
3. [IOIO-OTG]
- IOIO-OTG is a board that make any android device as the heart of the system, making you just program in Java and control the GPIO and UART.
- The benefit is that I can develop it using some Android Stick, however, I need to search about available shields for it.
In addition, I need to think how to separate the core of the system from the sensors such as nfc readers. I do not think that wiring over the entire house is the best way... but I didn't found any wireless sensors...
Someone want to give some opinion? I will update the thread with the sensors I'm looking around and so...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find your ambition high. But as someone running an Insteon Smart Home with an ISY994i, I can't help but feel you are trying to make a fairly cost effective and secure option more expensive and less secure. Mobilinc integrates with tasker, so you could set it up to unlock doors and stuff pretty easy with NFC.
Best of luck with your search.
me likes
DThought said:
I'd go the arduino (maybe more than one) + raspberry-pi (maybe more than one) way.
the ioio seems to be some µc that runs a firmware that connects to android and provides all i/o pins to android... so nothing you couldn't do yourself with an arduino or something similar.
I'd start with the devices you want to connect. Air conditioning might be controlled using Infrared emitters - would that work?
NFC Readers can be built from an arduino AFAIK, but you'll need some sort of field bus or wireless connection between all the parts...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with DThought. Including a Raspberry Pi would allow some pretty intense processing power.
If you want to limit the amount of wiring you do, you could actually use a USB wifi dongle on the Raspberry Pi. You could then make some simple protoboards/PCBs with an Arduino with a wireless shield for each thing you want to control. This would likely be a more expensive solution than plain wiring but it would allow a lot of flexibility. Especially if you had each of the Arduino clients very similar so that they are interchangeable.
You could also try using Xbee Arduino wireless shields in case you don't want to use regular wifi.
This sounds like a very good project. I hope it works out for you. :laugh:
Hello everyone so I'm doing a full dash replacement. Done a lot of research. I just want to make sure this is pretty much how it goes ? If someone wouldn't mind posting it that would be fantastic. Thanks!
s14.postimg.org/xspgi2rm9/image + .jpg
Fail. Try again.
This should be clickable:
http://s14.postimg.org/xspgi2rm9/image+.jpg
Not my favorite way of doing it but that will work. Don't forget in line fuses where needed.
I never understood the need for hubs and sticks. I mean I have terabytes of music but it's more of a collection and archive. I only listen to a couple of albums at a time so my internal 32gb is more than enough for me. Wireless charging is so much more cleaner. That's just my opinion though.
Take pics of your process along the way and do a build thread as it might help someone else out later.
weedahoe said:
Fail. Try again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
weedahoe said:
Not my favorite way of doing it but that will work. Don't forget in line fuses where needed.
I never understood the need for hubs and sticks. I mean I have terabytes of music but it's more of a collection and archive. I only listen to a couple of albums at a time so my internal 32gb is more than enough for me. Wireless charging is so much more cleaner. That's just my opinion though.
Take pics of your process along the way and do a build thread as it might help someone else out later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please explain better what needs to be changed. You can wirelessly charge these now? All the installs I saw were from a year or two go. Is there better ways to go about this now? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
There are many ways to accomplish the same thing and what you have will work if that's how you want to do it.
My install is not permanent. I can take out my tablet and take it with me. Even though I have other tablets, I don't like leaving my N7 in the truck. Wireless charging is enabled by default. All you need is the charger. For me, since I can take it out, I can take it in the house and transfer anything I want to it or use Airdroid and transfer anything to it wirelessly. Again, with 32gb, it's more than enough for me.
My audio is streamed wirelessly to a bluetooth module which goes to my RCAs which feed my amps. Because I use JetAudio, I have all my EQ and other settings in the software.
Here are some pics of mine
https://www.facebook.com/TrickedOut...21658036467.1073741951.100002259154742&type=1
if you want your tablet to slowly discharge over time in your dash, wireless is the way to go.
if you actually want to keep your tablet charged while using GPS/data/etc, use a cable.
Not true. With mine, Tasker is used to auto turn on both bluetooth and wifi. My brightness is also turned on to full brightness and set to do a few other things. I have never killed my battery by using it with a wireless charger and I have done a few trips out of town that were a couple of hour trips.
I also use an app called Galaxy Charging Current and you can use it to see you are on the (+) side of charging and not in a deficit
mackeystingray said:
if you want your tablet to slowly discharge over time in your dash, wireless is the way to go.
if you actually want to keep your tablet charged while using GPS/data/etc, use a cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So let's say minus the car charger part and I didn't a dc dc converter instead wired to a fuse box would that work too? Do I need a new radio harness for my car ?
And also do I need to know what channel amp I need ? I want to keep stock speakers but know I need an amp for the dac, can I use just a mono block ?
chaserwaser25 said:
So let's say minus the car charger part and I didn't a dc dc converter instead wired to a fuse box would that work too? Do I need a new radio harness for my car ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a DC cig lighter USB plug, gutted it and used the inerds to connect to 12v and allow my wireless charger (or any charger) to connect to. The cig lighter is already a fused circuit. If you are running a wire from the battery, then fuse it.
---------- Post added at 09:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
There are just too many variables for this to answer. You aren't trying to keep the email radio are you? If so, why? The tablet can do radio stations, stored music, movies, Netflix, YouTube, bluetooth calls, ect. Again, I never understood the need for some people to want to keep the OEM head unit.
How many door speakers do you have? Are you going to upgrade them to aftermarket? Any subs? If so, how many?
weedahoe said:
I bought a DC cig lighter USB plug, gutted it and used the inerds to connect to 12v and allow my wireless charger (or any charger) to connect to. The cig lighter is already a fused circuit. If you are running a wire from the battery, then fuse it.
---------- Post added at 09:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
There are just too many variables for this to answer. You aren't trying to keep the email radio are you? If so, why? The tablet can do radio stations, stored music, movies, Netflix, YouTube, bluetooth calls, ect. Again, I never understood the need for some people to want to keep the OEM head unit.
How many door speakers do you have? Are you going to upgrade them to aftermarket? Any subs? If so, how many?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I'm not trying to keep oem head unit trying to do full replacement and I don't plan to upgrade door speakers and MAYBE add a sub later
chaserwaser25 said:
No I'm not trying to keep oem head unit trying to do full replacement and I don't plan to upgrade door speakers and MAYBE add a sub later
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could do a 2 channel amp with the 2 left side door speakers wired in parallel and the right side wired the same. Or you could run a 4 channel amp. Or you could run a 5.1 amp for future sub add-on
weedahoe said:
You could do a 2 channel amp with the 2 left side door speakers wired in parallel and the right side wired the same. Or you could run a 4 channel amp. Or you could run a 5.1 amp for future sub add-on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok cool so a mono won't work then ? Also I mean what so the best way to wore up the power to allow charging and run my usb hubs ? I saw this dcdc to usb from mini box that people say is the best
chaserwaser25 said:
Ok cool so a mono won't work then ? Also I mean what so the best way to wore up the power to allow charging and run my usb hubs ? I saw this dcdc to usb from mini box that people say is the best
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure. You could do a mono is you were really serious about it. Not something I would advise because you have no balance or fade control. But assuming your OEM speakers are 4 ohm, you could wire the two on the left side in parallel to get a 2 ohm load and the same with the right side for another 2 ohm load and then wire both sides in series to get a 4 ohm load again and 1 channel.
Or do it backwards and do each side is series to get an 8 ohm load and then wire both together is parallel to get a 4 ohm load. Like I said, lots of ways to get the same results.
DC to DC via USB can be accomplished with any car charger with a USB post. Keep is simple (and cheap). No need for something like an OPUS Solutions DC power supply. (sarcasm)
weedahoe said:
Sure. You could do a mono is you were really serious about it. Not something I would advise because you have no balance or fade control. But assuming your OEM speakers are 4 ohm, you could wire the two on the left side in parallel to get a 2 ohm load and the same with the right side for another 2 ohm load and then wire both sides in series to get a 4 ohm load again and 1 channel.
Or do it backwards and do each side is series to get an 8 ohm load and then wire both together is parallel to get a 4 ohm load. Like I said, lots of ways to get the same results.
DC to DC via USB can be accomplished with any car charger with a USB post. Keep is simple (and cheap). No need for something like an OPUS Solutions DC power supply. (sarcasm)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appreciate your help first of all. So I guess what would be the easiest way to do this then just a 2 channel or 4? Let me post then and then my next post I'll finally post my supplies with links cause I will be able to.
Nexus 7 2013 32 with t1murs and misc.
Dash kit
90 degree otg - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00932N46S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1402804640&sr=8-1
UBS y otg - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1402804685&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
Usb dac - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI?pc_redir=1402629036&robot_redir=1
Usb hub - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M0NURK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1402804775&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40
Flash drive
Power source - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D8...qid=1402804854&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Will that charger work ? For everything to run correctly ?
Amp- http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007AQ2WXU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1402804924&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Amp wiring kit
Is there anything else you can think of even really minimal cause what I lauded is literally all I got
With a 2 channel amp, all you will have is ether balance OR fade. Can't have both. If you do a 4 channel you can have both and would be configured with the hardware you use and/or software on the device.
The charger you are looking at will work fine but I would look at this one since it is a rapid charger. I personally own two of these and love them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400715271607
Ok I'll change the amp to 4 channel (4$ more ) and is there any better power adapter or will that work perfectly ? I'm just concerned about it charging and also running the Hub along with dac and flash drive
Will I need a radio harness for any reason for my car ?
And are these better power sources ?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088U6OZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1402814900&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006SU0SX0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1402814944&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
We just got into a new house and the heating and cooling are done using an Atlantic R32 duct type unit. Since it is blowing in all the rooms at the same time and the fact that the wired controller with the sensor is right underneath one of the vent, we have a lot of trouble getting the whole house to a satisfying temperature.
It would be a lot of money to get a brand new system with a better room temperature control, so I was thinking I could maybe use a Raspberry Pi or Arduino instead of the wired controller to create a web interface that I could use from my phone and connect multiple sensors in order to have the temperature in each room.
With the documentation that is provided for technicians, we can see that that the wiring is made of three cables, a 12V, a COM and a signal cable. I would have expected a RX and TX cable along the 12V and COM... So I'm a bit at a loss at how to start here. It seems like the communication goes both ways since they mention a discovery phase for the remote control.
I would like to know if someone has experience with hacking this kind of device and what I could do to retrieve data frames or even discover the sampling rate ?