Database Users

Broken Nook Touch, in 2 pieces. Help?

My dad threw my nook on the floor (carpet) & it broke in two pieces. It looks like I could re-connect it, here are pics:
http://i.imgur.com/pXf1n.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7mHPs.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pXf1n.jpg
Where does the battery wire connect? If it is broken, what kind of warranty does BN offer? I bought it less than a month ago =/.

Maybe this can help:
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/...=14&tag=siu-container;thumbnail-view-selector

Haloman800 said:
My dad threw my nook on the floor (carpet) & it broke in two pieces. It looks like I could re-connect it, here are pics:
Where does the battery wire connect? If it is broken, what kind of warranty does BN offer? I bought it less than a month ago =/.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
met67 beat me to the article
Sorry that it got damaged, but it looks like you could just plug the battery back in, snap the back in place and it might work so long as the screen is intact (can't tell from the photos).
If you had purchased the additional/extended warranty with accidental damage coverage you should be OK. Otherwise B+N's warranty really wouldn't apply.
If you had used a credit card to purchase the NST it's possible that they might offer an extended or enhanced warranty.
Please post your findings along the way.
Dan

It looks like the battery connector got ripped off. The battery gets connected to J600 (on the lower left side of your second picture, just above the big B).

Battery connector must be there...
_ttp://i.imgur.com/s5jxI.jpg

hayz said:
Battery connector must be there...
http://i.imgur.com/s5jxI.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A fairly steady hand with a low wattage soldering iron might be able to reattach that.
Assuming that you've got no warranty (and that the cost for B+N to repair would be prohibitive) it's certainly an option.

Looks like your dad is buying you a new one.
Galaxy Nexus - 4.0.3 CM9
Asus Transformer - 3.2 Revolver

MyTouch 3G slide screen not working

Hey guys, I have had this phone since August of 2010 and personally its really nostalgic, in all reality I prefer it over my Galaxy S, Especially for the Slideout keyboard and seems to have better ROM support :/ But around November 2011 the screen would spaz out not respond and just not turn on. Sometimes it would but so dark it was nearly impossible to see it. I'm not sure if the screen is dead I haven't used it since November when I got my Galaxy S. If the screen is dead, is there any type of repair service? or a way to buy a top half for the screen and replace it?

Look on Ebay, there are lots of these phones for cheap.
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using xda premium

Sounds like a loose connection on the cable for the screen. I had the same problem with mine. I'm still using this phone now. Free fix if you can figure out how to take the phone apart & basically unplug & re-plug. Be super careful though! And of course it could be a different problem.

You can buy a new one very cheap in amazon or ebay i dont think it worth to repair

Not sure it's the right place to post this, I replaced the digitizer in my old MT3GS (cracked in my pocket), and ever since, Ive have the screen-spazzing issue as well - wasn't my first time replacing a screen, either. For me, the solution _every time_ has been hit the power button to lock the screen, hit it again to get back to what I was doing... Never had to totally power down to fix the spaz :\
If it'd interest you at all, I'd be willing to send you the phone, charger brick, (and the metal case if I can find the damn thing) for $50+ship - thats what I paid for the new digitizer... If you have better troubleshooting skills than I do, good on you, because I've torn this one down and put back together again at least 2 or 3 times since replacing the digitizer, and can't find a single loose connection - maybe you'll have better luck than me?
Thanks
L4T

I called a repair shop I found on craigslist and they mentioned it's more than likely the flex cable, not the lcd screen or glass digitizer. These phones' cables go through lots of wear due to the sliding mechanism. They gave me a 70 dollar estimate, so I just don't slide my phone out anymore to prevent the screen from spazzing out or blacking out for good (it happened to a friend of mine's MTS3g). I've also seen the cable for sale online on ebay or repairsuniverse but I'd rather wait for my full upgrade than invest in it AND risk not fixing it.

I really wanna use this phone again, the slide mechanism is so worn on it you can feel it its kinda tough to do its not springy like it was outta the box, also on ebay these phones still run close to 200 dollars, I would take it apart, as its out of warranty anyways, but I don't have the proper tools to do so, like the mini philips head and the tiny socket wrench. And I hear it is most likely the flex cable but as I said I can't access it.

[WARNING] weak or poorly fixed power button

Ok, guys
This is my second Iconia that got broken power button in 4 weeks!
First one was returned to the shop within a week (second hand shop with one month warranty) and replaced with another one which was working just fine till yesterday night when my kid pushed the power button (she is just 2 year old skinny girl) and the button got stuck and did not respond anymore.What can I say... too fragile .This button is supposed to be pushed about twenty or so times a day.I never had such experience before.All my portable devices are nice and sturdy and even if i drop them by accident I've never ever got anything more than a scratch.Even though I loved this tablet I would say that this is a weak design point.Too fragile for a device of that class and price tag.
More interesting is to see what Acer's answer would be.I have no proper purchase receipt to claim my 1 year warranty since the item is second hand (mint, but second hand) and if they say they will charge me for the repair I will definitely quit the Acer's camp
I'll get back after call to the tech support

Are you the HULK or related to his family?

This has been mentioned here on the forums several times and the issue boils down to the fact that they've used cheap adhesive to attach the power-button to the motherboard.
It is actually pretty easy to repair yourself, though, just remove all the previous adhesive -- be careful not to scratch anything on the motherboard --, possibly heat the thing a bit with hairdryer or whatever you have in handy, and apply new adhesive while applying pressure to the contacts so that it doesn't come loose again. Just make sure you're using adhesive that is non-conducting! This whole thing takes about 5-10 minutes.

Yeah anyone needing to clean perhaps some rubbing alcohol and a little brush, it evaporates quickly
Sent from my Acer Iconia A500 using Tapatalk

There is a tear down at just do a google search for..
acer iconia a500 tear down tech republic...

opened and fixed ! Instead trying to fix the ugly little thinky I intsalled a new button and connecti it with a plain wire.the mod took a while but I$m sure it will last forevr!!!
Oh, and Acer Japan were not so polite and said that because of my inproper use the button got lose.
They mentioned that the repair would be too costly because they need to change the motherboard...
and the estimte was about 400 USD .Cool isnt it ?The guy on the custmoer support line was perhaps a good guy ....without any technical sence and knowledge

opened and fixed ! Instead trying to fix the ugly little thinky I intsalled a new button and connecti it with a plain wire.the mod took a while but I$m sure it will last forevr!!!
Oh, and Acer Japan were not so polite and said that because of my inproper use the button got lose.
They mentioned that the repair would be too costly because they need to change the motherboard...
and the estimte was about 400 USD .Cool isnt it ?The guy on the custmoer support line was perhaps a good guy ....withowt any technical sence and knowledge

acera500 said:
Oh, and Acer Japan were not so polite and said that because of my inproper use the button got lose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hah. As if, it's already documented and easy to prove that they didn't attach the button properly. It is not end-users' fault in any way or form.
They mentioned that the repair would be too costly because they need to change the motherboard...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They were just trying to squirm out of the responsibility. They know perfectly well that replacing the button costs about 2€ (including taxes and postage!), it does not in any way or form require replacing the motherboard.

hummm did you get that 400.00 quite by email.. or was it a phone call.
Acer has a fixed 199.99 fee for all repairs on Laptop and tablet computers. The guy you talked to was misleading.. go to there website somewhere it tells about this.. I MYSELF Have called acer about getting a Gateway notebook main board replaces.. 199.99 . I FOUND the board on ebay for 70.00 and did it myself.
the support guy saying up front that you broken is IS VERY Not there way of doing business. They are always we dont know SEND IT IN We will then tell you.....
Call back and talk to another person and Complain ... about the other guy.
good luck

Could you possibly show how you did the repair job? I working on trying to install an external power button, and this would be quite helpful. The tablet is going in the dash of my car, and the power button wont be accessible anymore.

rharms77 said:
Could you possibly show how you did the repair job? I working on trying to install an external power button, and this would be quite helpful. The tablet is going in the dash of my car, and the power button wont be accessible anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I can't remember the thread where there was pictures of this. But really, it's not difficult. You just heat the old glue so that it comes off easily, you can even scratch it off with something sharp just as long as you're REALLY careful about not scratching the motherboard.
Buy or loan one of those tiny solders clocksmiths use, they're great for small electronics work and a heatgun. Oh, and I still remind once more, whatever glue you're going to use please do make sure it's non-conductive.

Alright, I'll see what I can figure out. I think I've found an alternative to this, so we'll see how it works out. Thank you though.

Acer Iconia A500 Power Buton Came Loose
WereCatf said:
This has been mentioned here on the forums several times and the issue boils down to the fact that they've used cheap adhesive to attach the power-button to the motherboard.
It is actually pretty easy to repair yourself, though, just remove all the previous adhesive -- be careful not to scratch anything on the motherboard --, possibly heat the thing a bit with hairdryer or whatever you have in handy, and apply new adhesive while applying pressure to the contacts so that it doesn't come loose again. Just make sure you're using adhesive that is non-conducting! This whole thing takes about 5-10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I was wondering if you could help me fix my tablet like you did yours. I have found LOTS of forums with ppl with this same problem and have tried to fix it myself. I don't know what to do. Some say to solder it back, some say hot glue, I can't even get the mother board all the way off b/c of the black tape/sd card/ whatever thing that's holding it attached right by the HDMI slot. My A500 has had a broken power button since July 2012. I used to plug it in or use a safety pin to reset and when it lit up I would unlock it and keep using it. That worked until the day I let it die completely. Now that it has died completely I Don't know another way to power it on besides using the power button. Could you post pics????

Potential Nexus 7 Touch Screen Fix?

I just wanted to report on a possible fix to touchscreen issues. While this may, or may not, work for you, it is what I did, what I have done on three(3) total devices & it is what has eliminated touch screen issues for myself & two other individuals.
This is a work in progress & I will be adding pictures & more detailed instructions, along with progress updates as I use the device going forward. This modification (though it really isn't a mod) requires no tools & while it does entail some light dis-assembly, it did NOT require breaking any seals that would void the warranty outright. Doing this however, may very well void your warranty, I am not an attorney, I am an engineer & taking things apart is what I have been doing since before I could even crawl nearly forty years ago.
To begin, I will go into my Nexus 7 story, which may allow you to identify similar symptoms.
My Nexus 7 device worked well out of the box, with only occasional multi-touch issues. As time progressed, the issues got worse & at one point a couple of weeks ago, even single touch event started to lag or not register. My Nexus 7 is a batch from July of 2013 & I purchased it in August of 2013, so it was still under warranty. Asus issued me an RMA number, however, I hate broken things, knowing darn well that 99% of the time I can fix them myself far faster than the total time it would take an OEM to get my device back to me. At any rate, after the 4.4 update, my touch issues got even worse. Aside from missing even simple gestures & taps, occasionally the screen would look funny & once it even had a sttatic "snowy" screen that was remedied by a factory reset.
After reading a few complaints from people about screen separation & investigating the device via the ifixit tear down, I decided I would take a look before committing to the RMA process. I gently slid my thumbnail under the bezel & slowly worked it around. Immediately I could feel the clips giving way & I eventually had the back cover off. Once the back cover is off, you will notice that the screen & digitizer ribbon cable runs across the battery, pinned in between the battery tray & the inductive Qi coil on the back cover of the device. I found it is easier to ease all the sides up slightly, then remove the back by gently lifing from the sides & upper portion, with the bottom, where the USB port is, being lifted up last. Once I removed the cover, I disconnected the battery terminal clip. After disconnecting the battery, I then followed the screen ribbon cable to where it is clipped into the screens board contacts with a plastic stay. Immediately upon applying pressure to the cable ribbon stay I felt & heard a faintly audible "click" sound. On closer inspection, I discovered that poor contact was being made by the ribbon cable & furthermore, the flex in the battery tray over time, when coupled with the heat generated at that location (due to the battery & the inductive Qi coil) can slowly loosen the ribbon cable stay & affect the quality of the connection. I used a thin piece of composite material to reinforce the cable ribbon stay & used a piece of vinyl along with a non-conductive adhesive to better secure the cable ribbon & stay. I only used a tiny amount so as not to affect the ability to safely disconnect the ribbon cable without destroying it. I also did not want a bunch of adhesive heating up & spreading to other areas. Before I performed the following step, I decided to test out a few thoughts. What I discovered is detailed in the next paragraph. So, after letting the adhesive dry overnight, I reattached the battery terminal clip & started the device. It has worked flawlessly since, without any touch issues.
While I had the back cover off, I carefully reattached the battery terminal clip & while wearing Nitrile gloves & standing on a wood floor to minimize the risk of static discharge, I would turn the device on with the display ribbon cable in various states of connection. They ranged from being angled so that the far contacts would make little or limited connection, to a full connection with varying degrees of pressure applied, to simulate a good or bad connection. Sometimes the device would not boot. Other times it would boot & have a static or "snowy" screen. Sometimes it affected all touch, from single finger events to multi-touch. It also surprisingly affected the system response. Things would freeze up & apps would FC or ANR. Again, once I improved the connection, everything was back to normal & functioning perfectly. In fact, it is functioning better than it did out of the box.
While I am sure Asus would argue that this voids the warranty, I did not break any seals. No tools were needed, just the materials I chose to use & had lying around. As I also mentioned in the opening, I did this on another household members device, that only had multi-touch issues, not all the issues I had, & their device has now been functioning wonderfully for the last several days. The display ribbon clip in their device was not completely detached on one side like mine, but it was fairly loose all the same. The third device was a friends & it was having mostly single touch issues, though he said multi-touch issues would come & go. We ran through the steps on Hangouts & his ribbon cable was in its place, but as he removed the back, the stay clip fell out. His device is also functioning normally now & he has not reported any further touch screen issues.
Since the problems people are having are oftentimes different & not consistent, it very well could be that this is exactly the issue. I would surmise that it could be the very reason why Google & Asus have been VERY, VERY quiet about the issue, since it would require returning the device for a fix, not simply a software fix.
If you try this, I urge you to be patient & use the utmost care when removing the back. While there are no cable attached to the back, you never want to force things. Be gentle & when you find the right spot for lifting, you will know it. It is not difficult & it is relatively harmless. I would caution you to use gloves & minimize the risk of discharging static electricity. I also recommend using gloves because copper sheeting is used in a couple spots & if you have ever worked with copper sheeting in electronics, you know that stuff grabs oils from your skin like crazy & you will end up leaving evidence in the form of an ultra-clear fingerprint that almost no solvent will remove. (Don't use solvents in your device unless you are a daredevil or know what you are doing).
So, that is my story & what worked for me & my small group. Ultimately, these devices are ours & it is up to each of us individually to pursue the fixes or mods that suit us best. That also means that the responsibility & consequences belong to each of us as individuals. What steps you are willing take to remedy any issues you may have with your device are decisions you need to weigh. This is XDA, where people take risks, assume that the are eventually going to brick their devices & make real modifications to devices (which this really is not). If you break something because you needed every single little detail & step spelled out for you, that's not my problem. Again, this is XDA, not some ragtime blog & anything you do here usually requires you to be able to think for yourself at some point.
Lastly, I will try to get to a step by step with pictures as soon as I can. I am not a developer, I am not a student & I don't have a ton of time to devote to answering questions. I will do what I can, when I can, but between the holidays & my job as a mechanical engineer (two large hospital projects are going on right now that take up 95% of my day), I have very little time right now. This post is the result of a large lunch review meeting, not free time, so it will probably take some time to get everything up. I have to recreate most of it, since I really figured on RMA'ing my device. I never expected this to work as it has for me.
Thanks.

Thanks for the post! If I know the issue I don't mind taking it apart to fix it.
I RMA'd it once as I didn't feel I should have to fix it, but it was such a pain jumping through all the hoops only to get it back with docs stating "OS reset" and finding the problem 30secs after resetting up my account.
I have another RMA but have waited shipping it for an update to KitKat in the hopes that it would help. It hasn't. I'll have to see if I feel up to trying your fix.
Thanks!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

No one else tried this?
I barely have screen issues, but I am curious to know if this works, after replacing my N7 2013.
Thanks and regards,

Video tuto
Need a video tutorial. I have both touch and multi reboot issue. sometimes there are 2-4 reboots occur during rebooting of system. problems persist even after kitkat update. I think this is the cause that causing me such multireboot issue.
Hope this will solve my problem. i am out of USA country so i cant give for a RMA. But need a solution look like that.

Thanks gsleon3. It always sounded like a hardware bad connection type of issue so I'm not surprised.
The problem with rma is that I'm not sure their repair techs would really fix anything. The cause may not have been made known even to their own techs because it would leak out and might start a class action law suit. My 2012 nexus 7 never had any of the touch issues my 2013 version is showing. Quality control has slipped with the 2013 version.
Any lawyers here?

Video might be tough, but I'll try to get to it. I will try to dedicate some time this weekend. I was thinking Saturday night, but I just learned that the Day of the Doctor is being simulcast in 3D near my house. So it may have to wait till Sunday so I can let my inner geek out.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app

GSLEON3 said:
Video might be tough, but I'll try to get to it. I will try to dedicate some time this weekend. I was thinking Saturday night, but I just learned that the Day of the Doctor is being simulcast in 3D near my house. So it may have to wait till Sunday so I can let my inner geek out.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After what you shared with us, please DO enjoy your 3D simulcast of THE Doctor. We will be patienly waiting for your video.
Regards!!

nearly an inch long strip at the top of my screen stopped responding to touch i sent it back only had it for 6 days..

Tried this out. My clips were seated properly but I can see the reasons why they pop out.
Took about 5 mins from start to finish to test. Good job.

OP, during your disassembly of the device did you notice any random internal parts that could possibly be applying pressure to the screen from behind it? I ask because my otherwise perfect nexus 7 got a random blue dot in the middle of the screen and I know from past experience that that's typically the result of pressure physically warping the lcd panel.. otherwise the only other thing I can think of is that the lcd is being permanently damaged by the on/off case magnet but that's unlikely. or maybe heat that's causing the battery to flex into the screen. It's extra frustrating because I've had the nexus in a loose fitting hard case and the hard front flap should prevent the kind of pressure damage that would cause those blue marks... sigh.

ibebyi said:
OP, during your disassembly of the device did you notice any random internal parts that could possibly be applying pressure to the screen from behind it? I ask because my otherwise perfect nexus 7 got a random blue dot in the middle of the screen and I know from past experience that that's typically the result of pressure physically warping the lcd panel.. otherwise the only other thing I can think of is that the lcd is being permanently damaged by the on/off case magnet but that's unlikely. or maybe heat that's causing the battery to flex into the screen. It's extra frustrating because I've had the nexus in a loose fitting hard case and the hard front flap should prevent the kind of pressure damage that would cause those blue marks... sigh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well if it is pressure, I've found on past devices, sometimes batteries start expanding over time, like they have a fat belly.

Touchscreen possible fix
Started reading a bit on Google Products Forum and found a guy who said that the touchscreen problem can't be fixed by software.
So he took the back of the tablet off and found that the problem lies on the screen digitizer cable not being clipped to the connection port correctly. He disconnected the cable and connected it back again, and now his touchscreen is working perfectly.
I do not want to try it because I don't want to risk anything, but can anyone brave enough try this?:fingers-crossed:
Here's the guy's profile: http://productforums.google.com/for...ioWy9HdPwsowoDCuOz8SS9uR9nzVnPi6g2kSAInwwCj94 (it's the post form Nov 19)

LittleConfucy said:
Started reading a bit on Google Products Forum and found a guy who said that the touchscreen problem can't be fixed by software.
So he took the back of the tablet off and found that the problem lies on the screen digitizer cable not being clipped to the connection port correctly. He disconnected the cable and connected it back again, and now his touchscreen is working perfectly.
I do not want to try it because I don't want to risk anything, but can anyone brave enough try this?:fingers-crossed:
Here's the guy's profile: http://productforums.google.com/for...ioWy9HdPwsowoDCuOz8SS9uR9nzVnPi6g2kSAInwwCj94 (it's the post form Nov 19)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The author of that post is the op of this thread.

sfhub said:
The author of that post is the op of this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whoops, sorry, didn't realize:silly:

ibebyi said:
OP, during your disassembly of the device did you notice any random internal parts that could possibly be applying pressure to the screen from behind it? I ask because my otherwise perfect nexus 7 got a random blue dot in the middle of the screen and I know from past experience that that's typically the result of pressure physically warping the lcd panel.. otherwise the only other thing I can think of is that the lcd is being permanently damaged by the on/off case magnet but that's unlikely. or maybe heat that's causing the battery to flex into the screen. It's extra frustrating because I've had the nexus in a loose fitting hard case and the hard front flap should prevent the kind of pressure damage that would cause those blue marks... sigh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive disassembled the device too and it has nothing specials with exception that few flex cables located right unddr the cover. Not sure if one of them is belongs to touchscreen though
Also i got this blue dot too,and one pink as well. In middle of screen.

Tim4 said:
Ive disassembled the device too and it has nothing specials with exception that few flex cables located right unddr the cover. Not sure if one of them is belongs to touchscreen though
Also i got this blue dot too,and one pink as well. In middle of screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got a blue smear too, but near the edge of the panel but since it's not very visible..I'm just gonna ignore it..

GSLEON3 said:
Video might be tough, but I'll try to get to it. I will try to dedicate some time this weekend. I was thinking Saturday night, but I just learned that the Day of the Doctor is being simulcast in 3D near my house. So it may have to wait till Sunday so I can let my inner geek out.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely no problem, GSLEON3, with profound gratitude I assure you that we really appreciate your engineering work discovering the problem. Take your time and we will patiently wait until you have the time to prepare a more complete review.

Wow! If it is so easy, I don't understand what the Asus support makes everyday.
Thanks for sharing it.

Sound really greate and promising. If you could, a tutorial video would be perfect for us, please

sfhub said:
Well if it is pressure, I've found on past devices, sometimes batteries start expanding over time, like they have a fat belly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If higher amperage is used there is an increased risk of expansion due to the higher excitation in the Li atoms. You will increase the wear of it too.
So if possible always use lower amperages to charge batteries(preferably around 500mA), you can limit the charging IC using a lower output charger or your computer's USB port.

Really strange screen issue

Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?

bert682 said:
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.

bert682 said:
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?

You need a different screen if you want to fix it.

bert682 said:
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen

lopezk38 said:
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I took it all apart and while the new one was connected I was able to connect the old one, upside down etc. It worked OK. Did a bit of a blow and properly pressing down on the connectors.
I could accept the screen is at fault at return it but when the issue is not 100% of the time I know my luck will be that when it gets tested at the sellers end it will work, get sent back to me and be broken again.
Have some monitoring apps running now so I can tell of its heat. Since this side is away from the battery im less incluined to think its heat from that. The motherboard does run down that side so it could be something in that? Ever seen any reports of that getting too hot?
Could even be heat from the antenna cable somehow?
Strange that it spans the whole length though.
Ill risk the return I think, got a video of it being broken so will see what happens.

Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.

Planterz said:
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?

bert682 said:
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough , the original digitizer is wrapped with aluminum tape. Some knockoffs have a better cover in fact. They use a hard aluminum sheet instead of aluminum tape. Some knockoffs don't have that shielding which is bad because that tape is there to keep the IC from getting spammed with useless data by radio frequencies and such.
If you haven't dropped your device , i don'T think it is likely that there is a problem with the glass. It's most likely the IC.
You could transfer your old flex to your new glass which is easy but you need some seriously steady hands.
When you remove the glass from the frame , you will see the flex cable's contact zone. It's basically the part where it connects to the glass. If you heat that area up with a heat gun it's gonna come right off when the solder beneath melts. Take out the new one and the old one. You need a flathead tip for your solering iron , which is like a flathead screwdriver. Simply take some solder and spread that solder around the contact dots , don't worry it won't stick to the plastic but it will melt if you keep it at the same spot too much. When you're done spreading , there are two dots with which you can align your old flex cable to your new glass. Use some adhesive tape around the alignment dots and Align the dots with your flex cable (you'll know which dots when you see it because it's orange and kinda stands out) press it so the adhesive holds and then use your heat gun and melt the solder to the contact zone.
It's actually easier than it sounds.