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okay under the instructions of our valused member Cmonex we have now opened this discussion as a food for thought
the begining of the conversation was here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2480768#post2480768 and now from there we continue
cmonex said:
there is no such thing as "standard WM drivers". drivers are hardware specific.
for god's sake why would you think it is based on the advantage? the processor and everything else is different. the closest is a kaiser but the LCD and some other things are of course n ot the same.
Please open a new thread to discuss this.
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Click to collapse
well i assumed that the board would be advantage because they both have spinning hard drive and maybe because i own an advantage will am willing to donate in the name of sience for such a cause other wise if someone who opened shift can tell us what he thinks of this as we can simpley replace that board with this one, the only 2 things that i assume would be hard is
2. the hardware button that switched between OS's
3. the sdcard slot, in which i assume with some soldering to unify the 2 boards it would work fine (hardware side but software i dunno
Rabia said:
okay under the instructions of our valused member Cmonex we have now opened this discussion as a food for thought
the begining of the conversation was here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2480768#post2480768 and now from there we continue
well i assumed that the board would be advantage because they both have spinning hard drive and maybe because i own an advantage will am willing to donate in the name of sience for such a cause other wise if someone who opened shift can tell us what he thinks of this as we can simpley replace that board with this one, the only 2 things that i assume would be hard is
2. the hardware button that switched between OS's
3. the sdcard slot, in which i assume with some soldering to unify the 2 boards it would work fine (hardware side but software i dunno
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you explain to me why you would want to place the advantage board in the shift? Whats the use of that?
I dont get the point.
And no, I dont think it is plausible (possible)
not advantage, we are just saying what if, so we can use full mobile strength and not software solutions
Rabia said:
not advantage, we are just saying what if, so we can use full mobile strength and not software solutions
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its kinda funny how big companies always screw up their stuff...
PS3 = only 256MB ram
Xbox360 = No BT and WIFI
Willcom D4 = only PHS
Shift = Crippled...
sad sad, isnt it?
I would be lying if I say I havent thought about swapping the CPU and I spent hours searching for ram...
i gave up....now my machine is sitting there, waiting for the SHIFT PROJECT
yes your 100% right, but swapping CPU and Ram is harder than swapping a whole Radio Board, just think of it, any HTC (kaiser for example) just mount it in a place inside the shift (after freeying the old space takin by radio) and just figure out how to connect the display, even better since shift has vga, get an advantage or one of those htc with VGA out pout and connect it from within, this is defenatly a project am doing 365 days from now or the second HTC will have a product i will buy (in this case a none crippled SHift), the more input we get from those who have looked inside it and looked inside other HTC's, personally i know how does wallaby, himalaya, jamin, jasjar, advantage look like, i have opened all and usually this is what i do in anything get, the second i the warranty ware off i strip it down to learn
You can't do that. Take a look at the FCC pics and notice the board differences.
well i looked and didn't make any sense earlier but should it be housed exactly the same, would't any radio board that fits withen the space in the shift just do the job?
No, it's connected through a proprietary connector, which you don't have in any other PDA Phone. Also you're not taking into account the Embedded Controller which allows sharing the touchscreen, keyboard, etc, between both systems. See the attached pictures.
oh now that i didn't look at, the controller that would share those things together, though after seeing the board its a close reminder of qtek 1010 or qtek 9090, i assumed that display belt is connected through the MB and keyboard is input is through a shipset like advantage with just keys being remappted throught SW, that what would i do if i was HTC coz then this would just save loads of production line equipment, this is stupid though, SDcard is connected though radio board but works with Main MB, it means almost a year from now we actually might have a full usable mobile, what scare me though is the Bluetooth Shipset, where is located to your knowledge?, i know whats going to happen in the first few realeses, phone will be working only while vista is on to be able to use WIFI and BT for audio routing and VOIP from phone board, then slowly they will become independant again (i guess)
Rabia said:
yes your 100% right, but swapping CPU and Ram is harder than swapping a whole Radio Board, just think of it, any HTC (kaiser for example) just mount it in a place inside the shift (after freeying the old space takin by radio) and just figure out how to connect the display, even better since shift has vga, get an advantage or one of those htc with VGA out pout and connect it from within, this is defenatly a project am doing 365 days from now or the second HTC will have a product i will buy (in this case a none crippled SHift), the more input we get from those who have looked inside it and looked inside other HTC's, personally i know how does wallaby, himalaya, jamin, jasjar, advantage look like, i have opened all and usually this is what i do in anything get, the second i the warranty ware off i strip it down to learn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ram isnt that difficult to swap. You can just get a different module, since its not soldered.
Unfortunately, there are only 512MB and 1GB modules commercially available, but give it time and you can purchase 2GB.
About the CPU, nowadays, CPUs are not soldered onto the board like on the VAIO T1 to T5 series. They are glued.
My mate is soldering prototype PCBs for a living. He showed me how he glues SMDs onto the board.
So, you can change them, but its risky to pop the chip off.
But then again, will the BIOS reckognize it? How about power consumption and heat dissipation....maybe not worth the effort.
after looking at the scheme i think other than the keyboard loss its pretty doable, they are completly seperate, other than the display, which i assume the red circled connector is the one for it, i also assume the black and white are for power, other than the keyboard nothing is connected (which i assume the green circled connector is what shares the keyboard and power on etc
Hello,
I have an idea:
Posting what are some usefull tools for hardware hacking. Both hand tools and software...
I think it would be a good reference...
What do you think?
1) a screw driver set, probably like those used for mobile phone repair. I got one with 33 interchangeable bits.
2) a digital multimeter, the more checking options the better. Or simply a cro( oscilloscope)
3) a good antistatic soldering iron( prefer goot from japan). Hot air gun with temp and air control ( optional)
4) thin solderwire, good white flux, ipa or tinner, desoldering wick, desoldering pump, soldering - de soldering assist kit( optional)
5) magnifying glass or stand with illumination, a portable filament lamp( in case u have to dry out a circuit board with ipa or thinners) , pcb holding stand( i got one with a magnifying glass too). A small magnet or box to keep unscrewed screws, so that u may not get screwed up by lossing some of them.
6) bunch of wires, pins, jacks, and a plugsocket or extension box with fuse protection and univeral plugs( i made one myself)
7) last but not least.. virtualy every thing u need for a particular work, its bit electrical and electronics. So any thing u can manage will become a tool.
8) a bench powersupply with 0-30 v adjustable option( i modified a comp smps to get it, smps supply gives stedy and stable supply compared to transformer based ones. Though it gives max 12v o/p it is enough for most works, as i got another 0-30v transformer based supply, i never had to use it for any of my mobile based works). A ups if u want.( the comp ups with 700w is a good option)
Rules;-
1) always keep ur workplace neet
2) keep all tools handy, and easily accessible from where u sit.
3) use good lighting( i made a 3w led adjustable handle lamp with lense, so that it focus properly on my work area only, keep the light so that it dont falls directly on ur eyes)
4) do handling of static objects with bare foot on ground, just to avoid static charges from ur body. Or use antistatic matts and wrist bands
5) use of correct tools makes ur work clean and also saves lot of time.
6)never mess up ur work place with wires,chargers,datacables, tools, etc..
7)patience ... hope ...determination ... optimism ...( with out these u will never gona make it)
Thats all.. i got for now.( or what that came into my mind for now) . U all add some more spice if u have`em.
Hit the thanks button if i helped u...
Regards
Shah
Sent from my HD2 using XDA App
Very good reply....
Anyone else want to add anything?
I think that covers it. Other things that I would add is an assortment of clips for probing / attaching. Maybe a scope but I don't think that is required for much. As for software, I don't know, I don't use a lot of software but I find adb and Kies being really useful.
Software's:-
1)XS ++ :- software for flashing/ moding sonyericsson Java phones
2) setool :- same as above, with more options
3)a2tool:- same as above but for newer se Java phones
4)universal box, jaf box, :- Nokia,LG,se,etc flashing.( Java phones)
5)ireb, f0recast,:- iPhone
6)adb,hd2 tool kit,alpharevex,goldcard tool,z4root,gingerbreak,android kitchen, android sdk, Odin multiflasher, :- tools for android devices
7)wp7 toolkit, wp7sdk, zune, wxap assistant, update cab sender, multi xap installer,hspl / spl installer :- windows phone tools.
Dudes these are few tools I had used, but not all, its hard to mention all, as thousands of them are out there..
The main info I can give is to Google searching your need with "tool" at its end. U will get it.
Eg:- xperia arc unlocking tool, sensation XE rooting tool, etc...
from hd2 running hyperdroid 5.7 on dorimanx 3.8
HW dev tools and asociated SW here :
just google for "microchip technology android" they have many others
Core phone analyse/modding stuff? JTAG + OpenOCD/CrossWorks. Allows to debug/resurrect/low level software and hardware analyse any ARM based phone if JTAG pads are exposed.
subasri said:
hi can u also guide me some useful tool for hardware hacking
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have posted it already, read second post of this thread. What more do u want?
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App
Does anyone have experience with gas soldering irons?
Thank you all very much. Very good info
agree
+1 for this thread. very useful
Shadow, u mean oxy-acetline torch used for welding or gas soldering iron like those of hako,?
I got one gas soldering cum heating soldering iron, portable, interchangeable bits, but its too hot for mobile reworking, u can burn ur board.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App
Did no one mention a signal generator for injecting signals?
Most modern multimeters / oscilloscopes have signal injection features, even cheep chinees multimeters have it. Its ok for normal use
Sent from my HTC HD2 using xda premium
+1 for this thread. very useful
The Rigol DS1052E mentioned above is excellent, although honestly I wouldn't buy it from DX. I live in the USA bought mine from Saelig - it has been replaced by the 100 MHz DS1102E for $400.
The Open Bench Logic Sniffer can be a powerful tool, I honestly have barely used mine so far though.
There's an open hardware JTAG dongle (Bus Blaster) that is very inexpensive, but I do not know if it supports target voltage levels low enough for interfacing with most phones.
Other cool stuff for general hardware/microcontroller learning/experimentation:
Gadget Factory Papilio - FPGA learning/development board
Adafruit Boarduino - Inexpensive breadboard-compatible Arduino hardware. I strongly recommend using AVR-GCC instead of the Arduino IDE though
Adafruit ATMega32U4 breakout board - Make a USB peripheral for only $20!
The cheep solution for replacing expensive digital oscilloscopes,tracers,injectors, and every thing that read signals and show it on a screen.
A laptop/netbook/computer and a data logger card.
A netbook+multichannel( max upto 8 analog+digital i/o channels is enough) will cost u 1000-1500$ and will be a good companion. As far,, all of us have pc or laps. So its what we have to spend few hundreds for data logging card. Thats it. Multipurpose multisolution device. Possibilities are vast.. compared to ossiloscopes etc.
HPD V6-Sandy Scorpion ( beta testing)
I've got a simple touch that got stepped on, now Joseph Conrad has an interesting hairdo (can see where the crack is).
I've got ADB installed and working well for my other (various) Android devices, so using that is an option if I can figure out the Nook side.
The light next to the USB port goes on when I plug the Nook in, so there's some logic working in there.
Questions:
Can someone suggest a way to test if the device is good excepting the screen?
Is it worth replacing the screen on this device and if so, where could I find one?
Assuming screen replacement isn't an option, I'm considering random fun projects for this hardware. Anyone got recommendations?
The first random fun project I'm thinking of would be a WiFi repeater, mostly because I need one in the house here. Total awesomeness would be getting DD-WRT working on it
if u expert in adb ... then u can use and install program named "screenshot" and then run it and take print screen from ur nook and pull pic from ur sd card from screenshot directory .... all that via adb
but i dont know how ... it's just a theory ..... but it will make sure that ur device working or not and is it screen Issue or not
thx
That's a good idea, speedman.
You don't actually have to install any software.
The stock "screenshot" works well enough.
Ok, the colors are all screwed up, but still.
Code:
screenshot /sdcard/snap.png
Oh, yes you can buy screens from NST's gutted for parts.
It just that they cost about as much as a used NST.
If it were mine, I'd do some hacking.
I've already got a console UART connector soldered to the board.
I'd see about expanding the key matrix and seeing if I could get some I/O pins going.
JTAG would be fun to play with.
So I had bought three Stratospheres for cheap (bundle auction), hoping that I'd be able to pick up another cheaply with a good screen or bad glass+good LCD. However, beings I've not taken one apart to that extreme I wasn't aware how hard it'd be to separate those pieces At any rate, they all work fine otherwise, I know at least 2 boot to Android since I eventually get the haptic vibration indicating it'd reached the unlock screen. I had also hoped that at the very least the Wiki would've been right about HDMI out, but it's hard to find out what all have full support (the Epic 4G [D700] I got instead for example has it mostly but no one's able to get it working).
New screens cost the same as a working Strat, and seeing as I already bought an Epic after finding that out, I'm wondering what to do with these. I love tinkering, so being able to solder in a Composite, VGA, DVI, HDMI video connector and use it as a self-powered Stick Computer would be seriously awesome.
I'll gladly take hi-res PCB photos, with a DSLR and ample (non reflecting) light, if folks want to help tackle this Hell, for that matter... if you've got the know-how and want give it a try, I will give you one of these Strats to see what you can figure out. These aren't like the Epic as far as PCB goes, either. That Epic is very tiny and a fraction of the phone's size, but these Strats are pretty much the full phone's length and width, so lots to play with lol
Anyways, hope someone knows a thing or two and we can figure a hack out!
Thanks.
EDIT: This just came to me...What about something like these, in conjunction with a ROM (preferably Odin flashable) that has USB Hub support?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114#1011403
Unfortunately it isn't driverless, BUT it does list Linux support, at least on the VGA model! More than I'd like to spend given the project, but we can call that Plan Y (Plan Z being: buy a new screen lol)
Ez way - how about flashing with some latest ROM and enabling tvout (with help of screenshots from DDMS)
Then you can connect any cheap stuff decoding pal/secam and maybe an otg keyboard/mouse + power chord through hub or straight to the batt slot.
The tryhard way - you could try to exploit screen flex slot. You should find 16/24bit rgb dpi'ish interfrace there + 2 i2c/spi busses and some gpios. Maybe utilising it as 16bit rgb going to sort of converting circuit could leave you with like ~15gpio pins for mostly any kind of stuff u want (spi, i2c, irqs). You need a good breakout for that and gotta consider high frequency layout (as rule of thumb, try to make wires between consecutive ICs as short as possible and equal length)
Capabilities and possibilities are unlimited. Just human's imagination and life is.
Id be careful with usb-dvi converters. Might work. Might not. Check with otg keyboard or smth first.
Rebellos said:
Ez way - how about flashing with some latest ROM and enabling tvout (with help of screenshots from DDMS)
Then you can connect any cheap stuff decoding pal/secam and maybe an otg keyboard/mouse + power chord through hub or straight to the batt slot.
The tryhard way - you could try to exploit screen flex slot. You should find 16/24bit rgb dpi'ish interfrace there + 2 i2c/spi busses and some gpios. Maybe utilising it as 16bit rgb going to sort of converting circuit could leave you with like ~15gpio pins for mostly any kind of stuff u want (spi, i2c, irqs). You need a good breakout for that and gotta consider high frequency layout (as rule of thumb, try to make wires between consecutive ICs as short as possible and equal length)
Capabilities and possibilities are unlimited. Just human's imagination and life is.
Id be careful with usb-dvi converters. Might work. Might not. Check with otg keyboard or smth first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So TVOut on the does actually Stratosphere work? (with a custom ROM, I mean)
You happen to know where to find such a ROM? I know that XDA doesn't have a Strat subforum I've looked high and low, and can barely find custom ROMs, let alone one that's TVout lol Everything is still Gingerbread based, but I suspect that doesn't matter since the hardware is from that time.
As for the latter, I actually hadn't realized that without a screen, I'd be without a MOUSE haha I was totally focused on it having a slider keyboard and somehow missed I'd still need a mouse Nevertheless, doing it myself would be pretty hard :\ I don't know that much about the finer details of hardware, at least circuits of that complexity. Modding an analog audio circuit with new capacitors or an OpAmp is one thing, but that's straight forward In-Out, Power-Ground lol
That isn't to say I wouldn't attempt it but I'm not sure exactly what would be needed. If it's LVDS, I do have an older 15" laptop screen that'd be cool to hack a Strat to use :cyclops: That's adding a bit more complexity to things though, at least to start with right out of the gate.
Sadly I dont know where to get Strat ROM. But I assumed that its HW is pretty much the same as I9000, except the additional keyboard, so aries kernel with patches might/should/could work. There shouldnt be any major problems in porting it. I would get these crappy Sammy sources for I405 and I9000, diff them and try to apply diff on kernel_samsung_aries repo of CM.
About TVOut - it is matter of one or two gate ICs and a jack sensing onboard, as S5PC110 has built in tvout signal generator. So I would expect HW to support it.
Edit: There should be some tvout handling in original kernel sources if it is supported. Though, knowing Sammy, there might be aswell tvout driver enabled but HW not wired at all to support it.
I had the bright idea to build a "small" machine torrent, with a Raspberry, lots of LEGO and some electronic component.
What I present is a work built especially on spare time, still processing but working 24-hour a day!
What you see in the picture is the version that I called 3.0 for now I did the 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 3.5 (with Raspberry Pi B +)
The idea was born from a simple need: I could not keep the PC on all day to download torrents, or in other words, consuming energy and making some noise at night ... so I asked myself, what alternatives do I have? Internet answered me with "Raspberry Pi". I noticed some small projects that used the board as a machine used to download/upload torrents and my geeky addiction for those stuff made me immediately fell in love! I also noticed some projects that consisted of case for RPi made with LEGO, and I could not pull back in the face of challenge, partly because of the tons of bricks in the attic waiting to be exhumed after years ... at which point I thought, "Why i shouldn't build a case also for the hard disk?" and again: "Why do you not make a case that also contains all the cables?" and finally: "Ok, from the case there will be a single wire that goes to the wall outlet"
And so it was, that at the arrival of the mini-pc the work began!
The project had the following requirements:
- A case (preferably aestethically nice) made of LEGO
- No LEGO brick was to be mistreated (glue, holes, crimping), only removable housings with non-LEGO pieces
- A single wire for current input
- A cooling system
- The minimum number of non-LEGO parts visible from the outside
- A small display for any physical access to the machine
- A USB hub to connect USB drives, external hard drives, mouse + keyboard, etc.
- And above all, lots and lots and lots of patience and time!
A bit of schematics on paper, some boxes full of LEGO, and the site is now open!
Version 1.0
This is the case of the Raspberry only, easily removable from the rest of the building:
The hard-disk housing:
The fan! The tubes are taken from an old LEGO Mars base, and the air is pumped to the Raspberry (which has seen lowering its temperature of 40-45 Celsius degrees! This means that it works!) and all hard drives. The rear tubes instead are routing wires between the raspberry pi and the harddisk, and the central block. The fan is connected to a USB socket placed under the hub.
The gem of the goodies: fan control! The switch turns on and off the fan and set the red LED. The green LED is lit when the TorrentBox is attached to the current. The nice thing is that both lights are sticking perfectly LEGO holes!
The interiors of the beast (yes that it is a power strip down there!)
Whoops, i forgot the hub!
Overview:
Disco time!:
After a few days I realized how fragile the structure was, and in addition, I found the box with all the gray and dark LEGO, so i decided to do a more "professional" building and made it similar to a factory
Version 2.0
Designing the front writing
Spoiler
Internal...
...and external restructuring!
Final result:
At this point I said to myself: why not put some little LEGO man "at work" as it already seems like an industry? Said and done
After some time, with the arrival of the much coveted display (a vulgar 7" display with 800x480 resolution, the kind that you find in chinese car radios) i have began updating the now massive construction (20cm high and the base of the block was 25x15cm). In the project i also included a touchscreen with its USB adapter, but i accidentally broke the panel, and even though i have a spare one to grab from my old car radio, the configuration with raspbian was pretty mangy, and for now i left apart this addition: P
Version 3.0
Here is the housing for the screen (other 7cm in height!) The display has a hdmi connection that goes directly to the raspberry through the rear tubes:
Since my house, from time to time, is populated by various little cousins, I thought to give the beast a protective cover which, however, leaves a glimpse of the situation on the screen (incredibly 4 Droideka arms from Star Wars sets are strong enough to hold the lid firmly!)
Access to the display controls (which are connected via a flat cable to the display board)
Some cosmetic change here and there, to standardize everything
Here it is in function :
Version 3.5 has already the Raspberry Pi B + (the one with 4 usb ports) but is identical to the 3.0 for the moment. I will remove the hub (which is slow, and can only be used for a keyboard or a mouse), but to do this i should open everything but i am a little sick of putting hands into that mess (and i do not have so much time since I started working full-time)
However, sooner or later I'll put my hands into it, and of course I will post the results here!
Let me know what you liked, what you DO NOT liked and if you want to know something more about it (maybe I forgot to say something)... Bye!!
I also have a couple of videos that will upload soon!
P.S. Here are the links to the Imageshack and Tinypic album (they are identical), to see all the images:
Imageshack: https://imageshack.com/a/KfMq/1
Tinypic: http://it.tinypic.com/a/2v9ya/2
Wow this is amazing. Probably one of the best "cases" I have seen.
How is the daily performance of torrenting on the RPi? I always thought the USB ethernet driver would be slow, especially if buffering and spilling to external HDD. But maybe I am wrong and the RPi is a beast.
dyczone said:
Wow this is amazing. Probably one of the best "cases" I have seen.
How is the daily performance of torrenting on the RPi? I always thought the USB ethernet driver would be slow, especially if buffering and spilling to external HDD. But maybe I am wrong and the RPi is a beast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now, with a wifi usb adapter, and an usb hdd attached, i have no problem downloading at 1MB/s
I used with ethernet in the past, and the performances were the same. I use an hdd with 2 partitions, one of 50GB, formatted as ext4 for incomplete downloads, once a download has completed, the rpi moves the file to the NTFS partition that has all the remaining space. This way i can view hdd contents directly with windows. The dual partition system has been made because downloading continuously onto a ntfs partition used too much cpu, but ext4 is natively supported by RPi, so no problem at all this way
FrankieDedo said:
As of now, with a wifi usb adapter, and an usb hdd attached, i have no problem downloading at 1MB/s
I used with ethernet in the past, and the performances were the same. I use an hdd with 2 partitions, one of 50GB, formatted as ext4 for incomplete downloads, once a download has completed, the rpi moves the file to the NTFS partition that has all the remaining space. This way i can view hdd contents directly with windows. The dual partition system has been made because downloading continuously onto a ntfs partition used too much cpu, but ext4 is natively supported by RPi, so no problem at all this way
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
8mbps isn't bad. That's solid if you are just going to leave it running all day everyday.
It's also pretty smart you are using 2 partitions. I would never have thought of that.
BTW what display did you use and can you use an car touchscreen as base too?
Sorry for refreshing but it's really great job here, I need to say that.
Wysłane z mojego SM-G850F przy użyciu Tapatalka