Database Users

car charger for XDA Exec

Hello
I had gone out to get a car charger for the XDA Exec. i went to the t-mobile shop and they gave me a car charger for the motorola V3 and said it would work.
i have not tried it, but my brother who has an imate jasjar tried it and it does not seem to work with his device.
both the XDA & V3 use a USB cable from the PC to charge them up, that made me think they could use the same car charger, what do you guys think?

u need to think about the voltage of the charger u have, you should never use a charger that was never designed for your device.
even if it is fractionally dfferent, this could cause anything from failure of your device to fire, etc. you should have got a charger from an o2 shop, I got one and it was only 15 quid. works perfectly and was designed for universal devices.

The main problem here is the current the charger will deliver.
I have 1 exec that will only just charge from an 850 m amp charger the 2nd exec wont charge at all. You really need a charger that will deliver 5v 1 amp to charge effectively.
I stuggled to find such a charger but the active holder from Brodit does the job superbley. i got mine from
www.gpsforless.co.uk
Regards
The Pilgrim

thanks for the replies
so it is the current specifications which is the problem!!
i geuss the voltage spec is nto a problem, since the USB outlet should guarantee volts between 4.75 and 5.25, correct?
i guess the comp based charging works, cause the computer can provided as many amps as required, correct?
but why would one xda charge up and the other wont.
resistor tolerances ??
what about the charging algorithm , once the battery charges up, what prevents the charger to push more juice into the xda exec. likewise with the ccmputerbasec charager?
Can i use a car charger meant for the t-mobile MDA Pro with the O2 XDA EXEC or with the i-mate jasjar, or are the specifications different?

the_pilgrim said:
The main problem here is the current the charger will deliver.
I have 1 exec that will only just charge from an 850 m amp charger the 2nd exec wont charge at all. You really need a charger that will deliver 5v 1 amp to charge effectively.
I stuggled to find such a charger but the active holder from Brodit does the job superbley. i got mine from
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's strange, true computer USB ports only deliver 500 mA and it appears to charge just fine, if very slowly, on one of those. Razr chargers are not entirely the same as regular USB chargers, the Razr uses the extra USB pin (mini has 5, regular has 4) to tell it what kind of device is connected, cradle, computer, etc. It's possible that the Uni chokes on that.
As an experiment, I hooked a 400 mA (specced) USB adapter to my MDA Pro, the charge light comes on. It's at 70% battery at 1:00 am local time. I'll check again a bit later to see if it actually charged.
[Edit: It's 22 minutes or so later and I've moved to 76%, while the PDA was otherwise turned off. That confirms that it's very, very slow. Also, the adapter was pretty warm, it may have been running over its rating.]
I'm not sure how much this experiment is worth though, I've got a near duplicate of this adapter with a different colour that's specced at 1000 mA (and in fact they're now selling the same outer plastic with a 2000 mA rating). If the insides are as similar as the outside, the other one's just underrated, but it's possible that the insides are actually different.
Re:Voltage, as far as I know, anything that uses a USB charger is 5V so should be intercompatible. This statement does not come with any express or implied warranty of fitness and I will not be replacing any devices you fry.
Still, though, most devices tend to run on "be liberal in what you accept" -- my Nokias charge on anything from at least 3 to 8 volts. I wouldn't be surprised if the uni is the same, but I won't be testing that out anytime soon. At least not without reloading the original rom first in case I'd need to warranty it.

xda_guy said:
what about the charging algorithm , once the battery charges up, what prevents the charger to push more juice into the xda exec. likewise with the ccmputerbasec charager?
Can i use a car charger meant for the t-mobile MDA Pro with the O2 XDA EXEC or with the i-mate jasjar, or are the specifications different?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All the universals are identical to a much closer look than simply charging. The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
[1] Most chargers, even original equipment let alone aftermarket, are highly crappily regulated.

Get one from a local orange store - 10 quid for a spv500 one, works great.

actually i tried to charge a second razr using my comp and it woudl not charge up? does this mean the current spec varies from device to device, even within the same device
if one messes up the uni by charging it using a charger from a different make, it is still under warranty?
hey jasper
The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
what do you mean by colour coordinated
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
so there are 2 types of USB sockets, one with 5 pins and the other with 4 pins. did nto the standard USB have 4 pins?
is the 10 quid charger from the orange store meant for an actual spv5000? the t-mobile store gave me 2 chargers which they said were meant for the razr and the ysaid it would work just fine on the razr

re orange 10 quid charger - no idea. i read on a forum that someone else had got one and said it worked, so i got one too and it worked great.
previously I had used the supplied usb cable with a car adaptor and it couldn't keep up with running tomtom, so the battery would go flat. with this charger i can run tomtom and the device charges fine too.

thanks for the reply
you had received a usb cable with a car adaptor ? was this a unit which plugged into the cig lighter socket of the car

hi
this charger works with the exec and charges it quickly
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-CHARGER-O...itemZ5849569917QQcategoryZ48674QQcmdZViewItem

xda_guy said:
thanks for the reply
you had received a usb cable with a car adaptor ? was this a unit which plugged into the cig lighter socket of the car
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable was the standard one supplied. the car adaptor does plug into the cigarette lighter socket - one was supplied with a palm t3 car kit, another with an ipaq car kit. both never worked as previously stated (showed charging but failed to keep up with battery drain in use).

xda_guy said:
The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
what do you mean by colour coordinated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean that if you get a silver charger, same colour as the MDA Pro, it will not be a black charger, same as the Jasjar. So it may not look quite as cool, but it'll work just fine.
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are three components that have to do with charging: First there's the battery. It's got four contacts (+, -, and two others) which means it's probably a smart or at least semi-smart battery, which has internal sensors for temperature etc, either directly wired to outside or with a small chip to multiplex the lot onto just 2 wires, then there's a chip inside the phone which does the actual charging, it probably knows how full the battery is by measuring the output voltage, and regulates charge current based on that and the temperature., and communicates that to the OS. Then there's the so-called 'charger' outside the phone, or the USB cable, which simply provides the raw electricity to work with.
so there are 2 types of USB sockets, one with 5 pins and the other with 4 pins. did nto the standard USB have 4 pins?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Standard 'large' USB ports, both the ones found on your PC (long rectangular in crossection, 'type A') and the ones like are on a printer (more squarish in crosssection, 'type-B') have 4 pins. There was at one time a mini-USB with 4 pins as well, bit that was never common and is highly obsolete. And then there's the regular mini-USB we have these days, which has 5 pins. It comes in three variants which look almost the same: Mini-B, which you get on things like digicams, external cardreaders, etc ('slave devices'), and on the end of the USB cables that came with your universal (since it acts as a slave device when hooked to a PC), then there's mini-A, which is for computers that can't fit a fullsize one (rare), and then there's mini-AB, which can be used by both mini-A and mini-B plugs, and is the physical port found on the universal. These should be used by PDAs that provide USB-Host functionality, that is, you can hook them to a PC and they'll act as a slave device, but then you can hook them to a car reader or external hard drive and they'll act as host. Unfortunately, while the Universal has the physical mini-AB port, it doesn't *actually* support USB-Host functionality.

thanks for the info on the usb connectors

I got this.
Works in your car AND in a standard wall outlet in case you dont have a laptop or computer around to do power over usb.
http://www.boxwave.com/products/versacharger/index.htm
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They even have an airplane adaptor in the case that your favorite airline has outlets...
I NEVER leave home w/o this thing...like EVER...

xda_guy said:
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the battery reaches its maximum capacity the voltage dips slightly. the chargers in the phone detect this and stop charging.
Regards
The Pilgrim

xda guy
You can use your V3 car charger to charge your Exec. I do although it doesn't charge as fast as your mains charger or one designed specifically for it. It's something to do with the milli amps output.
However, it won't charge unless you plug it in with the clam Closed and the device OFF. You can subsequently open the clam and/or turn it on (for example if your running TT) and it continues to charge. If you plug the charger in with the device on, switch it off and it will charge (you can then turn it back on).
BTW - The V3 mains charger WON'T charge the Exec !!!

I use the one from Brodit, supplied by www.dsldevelopments.com and it works a treat. Never any problems, and Brodit gear is always top notch!
Ant

thanks for the replies
hey does the versacharger work with all mobile phones?
voltage of the battery dips slightly?
However, it won't charge unless you plug it in with the clam Closed and the device OFF. You can subsequently open the clam and/or turn it on (for example if your running TT) and it continues to charge. If you plug the charger in with the device on, switch it off and it will charge (you can then turn it back on).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey how do you turn the exec off?

hey how do you turn the exec off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ermmm, with the on/off button !

Car Charing not working

I tried to charge my Tilt today using the Car Charger that I got with it from AT&T but it isn't working. I accidently jammed my stylus into the mini usb port a few weeks ago andthen but it didn't look any different and nothing seemed to break off. It will still charge with my wall charger at home and will still sync with my computer. I know that the car charger is supposed to charge my phone faster but it should still use the same connections as my regular one..right? Could it be the ROM possibly? I can't test this right now because I am at work and my phone won't sync with my work computer.
Sorry if this is in the wrong forum please move if it is.

Check the cigarette plug in your car, sometimes it can be full with dirt on the connector in the car.
I had the same problem today and cleaned it out just with a screwdriver so that its connecting now.

Well the light on the charger is lit so I assume there is power going to it and it works with my mom's razr charger. The USB port actually looks dirty but I wouldnt know how to clean it out lol

bartimeus said:
I tried to charge my Tilt today using the Car Charger that I got with it from AT&T but it isn't working. I accidently jammed my stylus into the mini usb port a few weeks ago andthen but it didn't look any different and nothing seemed to break off. It will still charge with my wall charger at home and will still sync with my computer. I know that the car charger is supposed to charge my phone faster but it should still use the same connections as my regular one..right? Could it be the ROM possibly? I can't test this right now because I am at work and my phone won't sync with my work computer.
Sorry if this is in the wrong forum please move if it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had issues with my Tilt not charging in the car, which turned out to be a weird issue with CardExport. I had the CardExport tray icon set to autostart, and my phone would not charge in the car - only when connected to a PC. Disabling the CardExport tray icon and doing a soft reset fixed it. Now if I need to use CardExport I just start it manually.
HTH

Check your mini-usb connector on the phone, if the bit in the middle doesnt seem level it won't charge at full speed

bartimeus - Did you ever find a solution to this? I have been using Igo on my phone in the car heavily over the past few days for long trips. I have 3 car chargers and all wont charge the phone (resulting in no loss of satnav :-S).
Oddly, my phone shows that it is charging - sometimes only for a few minutes, sometimes continuosly - but it doesn't.
I accidentally shoved my stylus in the USB port too about 10 months ago and i wonder if this is a result of that. Odd it charges from a PC by usb and mains though - but not via a car charger.

I found that any of the Cheap ass Chargers I used won't charge it. I'm waiting for my HTC made one to arrive so I can find out if there is an issue.
I read on a thread a while back about pin 4 and pin 5 need to be soldered together for the Kaiser to want to charge.

pharaohamps said:
I had issues with my Tilt not charging in the car, which turned out to be a weird issue with CardExport. I had the CardExport tray icon set to autostart, and my phone would not charge in the car - only when connected to a PC. Disabling the CardExport tray icon and doing a soft reset fixed it. Now if I need to use CardExport I just start it manually.
HTH
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this problem but have never used cardexport... any known fixes?

JimmyMcGee said:
I found that any of the Cheap ass Chargers I used won't charge it. I'm waiting for my HTC made one to arrive so I can find out if there is an issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car chargers are 'cheap ass' Ebay purchases. Please let me know how the HTC charger gets on.

Not sure if this is the case for Tytn II, my Asus P525 need to have the middle 2 pins (D+ and D-) short in order to charge.

jackleung said:
Not sure if this is the case for Tytn II, my Asus P525 need to have the middle 2 pins (D+ and D-) short in order to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I vaguely remember reading that some people shorted Pins 4 and 5 and it worked.

JimmyMcGee said:
I vaguely remember reading that some people shorted Pins 4 and 5 and it worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how you come up w/ Pin5 as USB has only 4 pins (5+, Ground, D+, D-). Read the spec here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
I will do the mod on one of my adapter tonight and verify it

jackleung said:
I don't know how you come up w/ Pin5 as USB has only 4 pins (5+, Ground, D+, D-). Read the spec here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
I will do the mod on one of my adapter tonight and verify it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look for Mini-B It has Five Connections. That's what I'm referring too.

JimmyMcGee said:
Look for Mini-B It has Five Connections. That's what I'm referring too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then it would be pin 2 and pin3 for D+ and D-.
Ok, let me share what I found so far and the result turns out to be very surprising. I have 3 different cigarette to usb adapter (yes, I got lot of gadgets to feed in my car. ). And the test are done w/ maximum backlight and A2DP music to my JVC BT-1.
1. Cheapo w/o current rating label, (I guess it's about ~500ma). D+ and D- shorted
2. Another cheapo rated w/ 650ma. D+ and D- NOT shorted
3. An expensive one w/ rated at 2A (yes, this is the only one w/ enough juice for my power hungry Dell Axim x51v). D+ and D- NOT shorted.
result: 1 = work, 2 = not work, 3 = not work.
Then I shorted both 2 and 3
result: 1 = work, 2 = not work, 3 = not work.
It seem shorten D+ and D- does not change the result. Just about to conclude I didn't prove anything and about to give up, and I try a different USB to mini-USB cable. It surprise me all of them are working!!!
From the pic below, the charging icon of battery status mean the cable is connected. Current w/ a plus sign mean the Tilt is being charge
Cable 1:
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Cable2:
Therefore, I conclude:
1. it turns out my AT&T Tilt are very picky about the USB cable quality.
2. For cigar to USB adapter, maximum support current and the quality may not very important.
3. We may or we may not need to shorten D+ and D- since I don't want to spend time to unshort them.
p.s. I still don't understand why cable 1 gives bigger charge on adapter 1 but refuse to charge on the rest, while cable 2 give consistent charge on all adapter. I re-test several times but gives the same result.

Short Pin 5 (+5V) and Pin 4 (unused). And tell me what happens.

JimmyMcGee said:
Short Pin 5 (+5V) and Pin 4 (unused). And tell me what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The mini-usb plug is too tiny for me to work on it. I will pass it to whoever has the tool to test it.

Right, as I posted earlier, I have 3 cheap car chargers - 1 with integral cable and 2 that are just the adapter and require a separate cable. None charge my phone. A usb cable that works from my pc fails to charge in the car.
So, I bought a genuine HTC car charger. I fully expected this to work fine, but it doesn't. It does exactly the same as the cheapo chargers - My phone shows the amber charging light for a minute or two, then it goes out. No charging takes place at all. The battery icon shows charging all the time the cable is plugged in though.
My ciggarette socket is fine and supplies enough current to make the ciggarette lighter thingy glow hot.
/baffled.

chaps said:
Right, as I posted earlier, I have 3 cheap car chargers - 1 with integral cable and 2 that are just the adapter and require a separate cable. None charge my phone. A usb cable that works from my pc fails to charge in the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have other USB cable to try?

Hey all, No i have not yet found a solution for this problem. I believe I have a genuine HTC charger or at least an AT&T one because i got it witha bundle with my phone from AT&T. I am looking at the USB plug and it seems to be bent down a bit on the right side as you are looking at it.
I think i might talk to my girlfriends cousin who works for AT&T and see if he can be awesome and replace it for me without me having to put the AT&T crap back on there for an actual warranty return.
still charges at home wall plug in and syncs with my computer just fine

This is how i get around this happens, though it sucks if you're using it as a navigation device. When it stops chagrining through the car adapter, I leave the cable plugged into teh phone and the cigarette/power adapter and do a soft reset. This seems to clear it up somehow and it starts charging.

i am realy tired of recharging nook color

hello to all friends
i am realy tired of nook color it cant take charge when it gose to 10% and want to charg again it takes more then 8 hours to get 100% and just keep charge only 5 hours with 0% brightness
i have cm 7.10 stable
and using v6 super charger
i have some questions
1. Is this rom the best for battery life
2.should i use other kernel ? If yes with one is the best
3.and what to do to charge it in 4 hours thanx
i am using nook color originall charger

7.1 Stable should be fine for battery life. In a previous thread of yours regarding the NC charging, you mentioned that you are charging through a laptop USB port. This will provide slow charging as compared to having an actual power adapter plugged into the wall.
When I have mine on the outlet, it will charge from nothing to full in less than 4 hours. Nothing special. I just don't charge it through USB.

You have to make sure you are using the Barnes and Noble Nook Color charging cable. It has a n light that changes color from orange (charging) to green (charged). If you are truly using the correct cable it should completely charge in about 4hrs. If you have the right cable and your Nook takes 8hrs to charge, it might be that you need to recalibrate your battery, since its reading it wrong. To do this download battery calibration from the market, charge your Nook until 100%, run the app and follow the instructions. Once you use the app you need to let your Nook discharge completely, just use it as you normally do and wait until it turns off on its on. Then charge it completely until 100% without interruption
Regarding your 5hr battery life, that depends on what you are doing. Mine last 5hrs if I used a lot of internet streaming (Netflix, Youtube, Hulu, etc.) and gaming. When internet is off I can get around 7-10 hrs, with very low brightness. I get more battery life If I just use it to read at night with nightmode on and very low brightness.

hello thanx friend for replay.
I am using originally b&n charger with a simple micro USB cable that cakes with my xperia x10

afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
hello thanx friend for replay.
I am using originally b&n charger with a simple micro USB cable that cakes with my xperia x10
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is your problem... to utilize the fast charge mode (4 hour charge) you MUST use B&N charger AND cable.

Stop whining by doing the following
1. use B&N charger
2. use B&N cable
3. charging from outlet.

votinh said:
Stop whining by doing the following
1. use B&N charger
2. use B&N cable
3. charging from outlet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
place can u pot ur charger cable picture thanx

afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
place can u pot ur charger cable picture thanx
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afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
[...] and just keep charge only 5 hours with 0% brightness
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure the unit is going into deep sleep mode when the screen goes off? Check with CPU Spy (from the Market) to make sure. If it isn't, your battery will be constantly draining and you need to figure out what is keeping the unit awake.

so it semes that I don't have originally cable
another question can I use charger that gives this voltage
output =DC 5.0/2.0A
with sample micro. USB?

im running 7.1 and the only problem i have even on ics nightly is that when i charge the nook while its off it turns on its self, now that its on and charging i tun it off, 10 min later it turns back on....this is the only thing that bugs me

yes... but it will still take a very long time to charge.

afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
so it semes that I don't have originally cable
another question can I use charger that gives this voltage
output =DC 5.0/2.0A
with sample micro. USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Nook Color has 3 power states:
Discharging - no external power source and running on internal battery
USB charging - drawing up to 0.5A via the USB connector. This will only charge the Nook very slowly particularly if screen is on and the Nook is actively being used.
AC charging - drawing up to 1.9A via the USB connector. This will charge the Nook rapidly (typically < 4 hours from 0 - 100%)
You will be in AC charging only if the Nook USB is connected by the special original Barnes and Noble cable to a suitable USB power source that can supply up to 1.9A and also has the USB data lines shorted together to indicate that it is a charger rather than a data USB port. The B & N charger is like that but other similar adapters can also be used.
The B & N cable has extra deep pins in its special micro USB connector that carry the higher than normal current and the Nook will not go into AC charging without these. I am not aware of any alternative source for this type of cable other than B & N. Be especially wary of items say on eBay that claim to be Nook Color charging cables. All the ones I have looked at are just conventional micro USB that will only give USB charge rates.
You will be in USB charging if the USB is connected to an computer USB port no matter what cable you use. You will also be in USB charging if you use a non B & N cable to a charger.

thanx from all who helped me
the only question i have now i cant buy b&n cable becuse i am in afghanistan im working mobile software and hardware can i make this cable my self if possible if any one can gives me schematics of cablen thanx

afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
thanx from all who helped me
the only question i have now i cant buy b&n cable becuse i am in afghanistan im working mobile software and hardware can i make this cable my self if possible if any one can gives me schematics of cablen thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd say it was pretty much impossible to make it yourself as it needs the special micro-USB connector with extra pins and a deeper reach than normal and I'm not aware of a source of this part.
Did you not get one with your Nook originally? B & N would replace broken ones under warranty. It is also available as a spare part from B & N for about $15 but you would probably need someone in US to purchase it for you and ship it on as I doubt whether they would ship it international.

Android311 said:
im running 7.1 and the only problem i have even on ics nightly is that when i charge the nook while its off it turns on its self, now that its on and charging i tun it off, 10 min later it turns back on....this is the only thing that bugs me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is normal for the Nook to turn its self on when charging as long as you leave it alone it will have very little impact on the charging time.

bobtidey said:
I'd say it was pretty much impossible to make it yourself as it needs the special micro-USB connector with extra pins and a deeper reach than normal and I'm not aware of a source of this part.
Did you not get one with your Nook originally? B & N would replace broken ones under warranty. It is also available as a spare part from B & N for about $15 but you would probably need someone in US to purchase it for you and ship it on as I doubt whether they would ship it international.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hello
no.I did not get a.spocial charging usb becusee I bought second hand. one more question when.I am charging with my nokia n97 orignall charger 1200mAh in setting it shows Ac and it can charge in 6hours
now I don't know what to do

afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
hello
no.I did not get a.spocial charging usb becusee I bought second hand. one more question when.I am charging with my nokia n97 orignall charger 1200mAh in setting it shows Ac and it can charge in 6hours
now I don't know what to do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm. That's interesting. I had thought the Nook used both the extra pins in the special connector and the shorted data lines before it went into AC charging mode, but I've just done a quick test and it does go into AC mode with a conventional cable connected to a charger with the data lines shorted.
Now the reason for the extra pins was really to spread the current across more connections as the specification of a normal micro USB supply pin does not really allow for the full 1.9A maximum charge rate. So I guess that there is a risk that one may be overloading the pin a little bit by using a normal cable. On the other hand there are other devices that charge at similar currents through normal micro USB so the risk is probably pretty low.
If you are getting a 6 hour recharge with a somewhat under-powered charger then that sounds pretty good and you may lower it down to more like 4 hours if you got a charger capable of supporting 1.9A.

joeb690 said:
It is normal for the Nook to turn its self on when charging as long as you leave it alone it will have very little impact on the charging time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was it designed that way? or is that just how the beast it

My NC, A855 Moto phone, an Archos7, and my Flytouch5 all do the same thing. Must be designed in.
Sent from my CM9 NookColor using Tapatalk

Need some help from someone who knows legit electronics(diodes, resistors, etc.)

So, i'm trying to add in a usb microsd adapter to my Kindle Fire.
Threads before I started, just discussing ideas:
KF forum: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1615055
Hardware hacking forum: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1615059
Now, I just about completed the project, but I dropped the motherboard and broke it while soldering a wire onto it. I've just bought another KF off of ebay and will continue at that point, but while i'm waiting I need some advice/help.
I've made a diagram of what i'm going to do. It's pretty horrible, but I think it's understandable.
Few questions that go with the diagram:
*DC only flows one way, do I need the diodes?
*If I should use the diodes will these work? (max output they would need to withstand would be 7v and 1A cause of the wall charger)
*The wall charger puts out 1000mA(1A) when charging. USB puts out 100mA, would that 1A ruin the adapter since it's designed for USB? If so, should I use some resistors?(Unsure cause they would change the regular, lower output to the adapter)(Or the resistors could be put into the charger)
*More questions/concerns on the diagram
Diagram:
Taken off because it was incorrect.

I'm still a bit fuzzy on what's going on here.
I'm not sure what the (2) 3.7V batteries and the 4.4V boards are.
Is that the stock Kindle Fire power supply that you are showing?
Th first question: Have you gotten the USB SD card to work normally plugged in externally?
If not, have you gotten the USB SD card to work through a powered hub?
All the diodes on the black lines are drawn backwards.
You don't need any diodes there or even a reed switch on the black line.
You might have a problem activating the 4 (remaining) reed switches simultaneously and reliably.
If you've never seen voltage out of the KF USB connector, that means that you've not gotten it into USB host mode.
Oh, of course the KF has a single 3.7V battery so I don't know what that whole right side is doing.

Renate NST said:
I'm still a bit fuzzy on what's going on here.
I'm not sure what the (2) 3.7V batteries and the 4.4V boards are.
Is that the stock Kindle Fire power supply that you are showing?
Th first question: Have you gotten the USB SD card to work normally plugged in externally?
If not, have you gotten the USB SD card to work through a powered hub?
All the diodes on the black lines are drawn backwards.
You don't need any diodes there or even a reed switch on the black line.
You might have a problem activating the 4 (remaining) reed switches simultaneously and reliably.
If you've never seen voltage out of the KF USB connector, that means that you've not gotten it into USB host mode.
Oh, of course the KF has a single 3.7V battery so I don't know what that whole right side is doing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery is made up of two 3.7v batteries, they just stuck them together and put a board there to control the power flow or whatever. I said it's lowered to 4.4v cause normally when two batteries are put together their voltage gets added together, but that 4.4v is coming from the very end pins, there are 10 total. I get 4.4v when trying the other pins too, so since i'm only connecting it to one set of pins i'm just going with 4.4v.
No, I haven't. I have not been able to successfully get USB host working at all, even with a USB host cable. I don't have a powered hub, but I tried taking the power from a USB port on my computer and that didn't work either. Other people have it working though, some with powered hubs, and a few without.
It might have just been my Kindle, so i'll see when I get the other Kindle I ordered.
I thought I was doing them backwards, I know how they go on physically, but I wasn't sure about on paper.
I'm not sure that i'll need all the reed switches, I may just need two; one to disconnect the ID(blue wire) from the back, and one to disconnect one of the data lines. I wasn't able to experiment though since I never got USB host working.
I tried measuring the voltage directly on the board and from the USB host cable and didn't a reading from either.(When I measured on the board I shorted out the ID an GND wires like they are on a USB host cable)
What I was trying to do with the battery there was prevent power from the charger going directly to the battery, that would be bad. So I do need at least one diode on each line there, but the other two I added cause I didn't want any extra power to be wasted. Of course, it doesn't make much sense to me(not sure what I was thinking), that's why I asked if it was necessary.
Picture of the battery and the board connected to it. I took it apart and removed the second one to move it over and resolder it so there was space down the middle for the wires. The adapter will be at the top where the speakers are.
{
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This whole idea has lots of problems.
Taking power directly off the battery is not a good idea for many reasons,
the least of which is that many (most?) USB devices won't work on 4.4 volt.
Throw in a silicon diode and you're down a further 0.7 volts.
Ok, you could make it a Schottky diode if you want.
You're still going to have to disconnect both data lines to get this to work,
unless you are planning to only use the external USB connector for charging.
Using host mode, the power should be coming out of the USB interface.
As mentioned, if you don't have it there, it's not working.
Here's a sequence of a Kindle Fire teardown: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Kindle-Fire-Teardown/7099/1

Renate NST said:
This whole idea has lots of problems.
Taking power directly off the battery is not a good idea for many reasons,
the least of which is that many (most?) USB devices won't work on 4.4 volt.
Throw in a silicon diode and you're down a further 0.7 volts.
Ok, you could make it a Schottky diode if you want.
You're still going to have to disconnect both data lines to get this to work,
unless you are planning to only use the external USB connector for charging.
Using host mode, the power should be coming out of the USB interface.
As mentioned, if you don't have it there, it's not working.
Here's a sequence of a Kindle Fire teardown: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Kindle-Fire-Teardown/7099/1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Taking power straight from the battery is only a temporary solution, the devs working on the 3.0 kernel is working on fixing the OTG issues and trying to remove the kernel limit of 3v. Also, from what I understand there are other issues that the KF is having regulating the voltage out, people report that below 50% battery USB host stops working.
So, if the issues get fixed i'll just disconnect the battery, or, as I said before, it may have just been my Kindle. I got it used & broken and fixed it myself, so it may have been damaged more than I was aware. I would be able to provide more definitive answers if I had something to experiment with, but I won't have the other Kindle for a few days.
Also, since i'll have a second battery now, i'm not as worried about the battery being damaged.
I do realize that the diodes drop the voltage by .7v, but people who have USB host working report that the KF is putting out 3.3v, and some people have gotten certain flash drives and other devices to work off of that. I believe the microsd adapter I have will work off of that lower voltage.
I only charge using a wall adapter, and charging did work for me as long as the ID and GND cables were separated. My main concern is that adb and fastboot work since i'll just be transferring files to the Kindle and the sdcard with FTP. Which, if adb works so will mass storage, so...
Without using the battery it's just and internal OTG USB host set up with a switch/es, so in theory it should work.
I also don't need and diodes if it's not connected to the battery. I was just hooking it up to the battery cause I wasn't getting any power from the Kindle.
As for the reed switches not working reliably, I did read something before that said that they might screw each other up if they were all right next to each other. What if they were lined up end to end, would they interfere with each other like that? If they do work properly end to end all I need is a custom, long, slender, and rectangular neodymium magnet.
Again, I didn't really have much time to experiment since gravity and I screwed up my motherboard. I had just done some physical modding to the housing and framing to make space for everything, and done some testing on the voltages that it was putting out.
Also, thanks for the help and advice

Ok, here's what I was planning on doing without the battery, any problems now, besides the potential issues with the reed switches?

Ok, the TWL6030 used in the KF uses an LDO regulator for VBUS on USB for OTG
and is speced for 3.3V at 35 mA
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/twl6030.pdf
The Nook Touch that I have uses a TPS65921 (a/k/a TWL4030) which uses a charge pump
and is speced for 5.0V and guaranteed for 50 to 100 mA depending on battery voltage.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/swcs048f/swcs048f.pdf page 16
I've seen some devices that won't even work at 4.5V
Keyboards generally draw about 5mA.
I've seen audio adapters at 25 mA.
Some thumb drives take a lot of current.
Keeping the red connected all the time may or may not be a problem.
An inactive USB device should not be drawing much (any?) current, but you can never tell.
Bottom line, I don't think that the KF is a very good candidate for stand-alone OTG.
I'd use a powered (and back-powering) hub if I owned a KF.

I don't know what's going on here.. but I corrected your power supply in the schematic above.

Renate NST said:
Ok, the TWL6030 used in the KF uses an LDO regulator for VBUS on USB for OTG
and is speced for 3.3V at 35 mA
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/twl6030.pdf
The Nook Touch that I have uses a TPS65921 (a/k/a TWL4030) which uses a charge pump
and is speced for 5.0V and guaranteed for 50 to 100 mA depending on battery voltage.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/swcs048f/swcs048f.pdf page 16
I've seen some devices that won't even work at 4.5V
Keyboards generally draw about 5mA.
I've seen audio adapters at 25 mA.
Some thumb drives take a lot of current.
Keeping the red connected all the time may or may not be a problem.
An inactive USB device should not be drawing much (any?) current, but you can never tell.
Bottom line, I don't think that the KF is a very good candidate for stand-alone OTG.
I'd use a powered (and back-powering) hub if I owned a KF.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, I cut open a cable and plugged it into my computer with a resistor hooked up to it and got the voltage down to about 3.4v and the adapter that i'm using still ran and was recognized. I'm unsure about the current though.
It's not really OTG if it has to be hooked up to a separate power supply :/
AdamOutler said:
I don't know what's going on here.. but I corrected your power supply in the schematic above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't understand why i'd need a 5v regulator on the battery when it's only putting out 4.4v? (Again, current-wise i'm unsure)
Also, the ID wire(blue) needs to be connected to the GND to activate USB host mode, it tells the device that it's a master and not a slave.
And I don't know if you read my previous posts, but I may not even be using the battery if I can get USB host working like everyone else. And the diodes were there cause I didn't want power going directly to the battery since it could mess it up.

Well, your circuit is wrong in a bunch of different ways so I redesigned it.
0. USB requires 5V regulated power.
1. the ground diodes are pointing the wrong way so the power would not flow.
2. When charging the battery you'd kill your device
3. zener diodes breakover at a certain voltage, not regulate. Those zener would just prevent any voltage from flowing. You'd want a Silicone Controlled Rectifier.
4. The 2 extra diodes do nothing at all in your circuit.
5. Each diode drops .7V. Your circuit effectively uses 4 of them between power and ground from the battery. so, by the end of your circuit, the microSD adapter gets 1.6 volts.... no where near what's required to run the device.
So, I corrected the circuit.
Didn't read that you were using any other method, still havn't.. Just wanted to correct the circuit in case someone else tries to do it.

I built my own car charger using a similar circuit. It's the same thing you'll find in a powered usb hub, although they may use diodes to prevent a backflow of power into the computer.

AdamOutler said:
Well, your circuit is wrong in a bunch of different ways so I redesigned it.
0. USB requires 5V regulated power.
1. the ground diodes are pointing the wrong way so the power would not flow.
2. When charging the battery you'd kill your device
3. zener diodes breakover at a certain voltage, not regulate. Those zener would just prevent any voltage from flowing. You'd want a Silicone Controlled Rectifier.
4. The 2 extra diodes do nothing at all in your circuit.
5. Each diode drops .7V. Your circuit effectively uses 4 of them between power and ground from the battery. so, by the end of your circuit, the microSD adapter gets 1.6 volts.... no where near what's required to run the device.
So, I corrected the circuit.
Didn't read that you were using any other method, still havn't.. Just wanted to correct the circuit in case someone else tries to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AdamOutler said:
I built my own car charger using a similar circuit. It's the same thing you'll find in a powered usb hub, although they may use diodes to prevent a backflow of power into the computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*If it requires 5v then how do devices run with less with USB host on other people's KFs?
*I'm aware that the ground diodes are the wrong way, I asked in my og diagram, and mentioned in a previous post that I know how they go on physically, just not in a diagram.
*That's why I had the diodes, to prevent messing up the battery and device
*I still don't understand how/why it needs to be regulated when it's only 4.4v, it's not over 5v.
I know what zener diodes are, all I would need is to prevent power going straight into the battery, and that's what the diodes would do.
*I wasn't going to use those extra two diodes on each battery line unless someone said that it did something, it was suggested to me by someone who has less electronical knowledge than me and I figured it doesn't hurt to ask.
*And with the 3.3v from the Kindle and 4.4v from the battery minus the 2.8v required for four diodes it equals 4.9v, which should work, but hopefully I don't have to use the battery.
Also, if you look at the picture in my post here it shows exactly what a OTG USB host cable does minus the switches. All I did was add the battery and diodes to prevent power from the charger going into the battery and power from the battery going into the charge port. In theory that should work out. And like I said before, hopefully I don't need to use the battery at all.
I removed the picture in the first post since it was incorrect; while I doubt anyone is going to try it at this point, I understand your sentiment.

Look, im not saying my way is totally up to standards, but it comes much closer than yours with fewer parts, less work and i gaurantee it will work. The proper way is to buy a powered hub and connect to that. If you dont want feedback, dont post in a discussion forum.
Im done wasting my time on this thread. Youre doing it wrong.

AdamOutler said:
Look, im not saying my way is totally up to standards, but it comes much closer than yours with fewer parts, less work and i gaurantee it will work. The proper way is to buy a powered hub and connect to that. If you dont want feedback, dont post in a discussion forum.
Im done wasting my time on this thread. Youre doing it wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to get all upset bro, i'm just replying to what you've said(Like you said, discussion forum). You said you didn't read any previous posts, and it was obvious, you kept saying things that had already been brought up. And you say things like "Those zener would just prevent any voltage from flowing" when I was saying that was what I was trying to do anyways. Your comment implies that you think that I shouldn't use them, but with no explanation as to why not.
It's not that I don't want feedback, but you keep saying i'm doing it wrong, but you're not answering the questions that I ask. You're just saying "My way is right, your way is wrong," basically.
I repeatedly asked why it needs to be regulated when it's already less than 5v.
I also asked "If it requires 5v then how do devices run with less with USB host on other people's KFs?"
And I realize I didn't post this, but my next question was going to be, with the regulator there I would still need to put the diodes in to prevent power from the battery from going into the charge port and power from the charger going directly into the battery, correct?
Tl;dr:
You're right, you're wasting your and my time because you're not answering my questions, you're not explaining why your way is correct, and you keep bringing up things that were already discussed that I know about.

aaricchavez said:
If it requires 5v then how do devices run with less with USB host on other people's KFs?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Um, luck? Sure, a lot of devices are not picky about power.
The specification for USB is 5.0 V
Some devices may not have enough voltage to run at 3.3 V
Some devices may not have enough current to run at 35 mA
Some may simply not detect the presence until it rises over a threshold of 4.5 V
An SD card all by itself uses a nominal 3.3 V
The USB interface circuit is a separate issue.
aaricchavez said:
And with the 3.3v from the Kindle and 4.4v from the battery minus the 2.8v required for four diodes it equals 4.9v
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The math may be correct, but unfortunately the circuit is not in series.
The voltages just don't add up that way.
You'd need a "floating" battery (not the built-in one) to make the voltages add.
Getting a higher voltage from somewhere and using a 5 V voltage regulator would work.
However, you might need up to 7 V input because your garden-variety regulator has a "dropout voltage" of about 2.0 at full current.
That's why there are special "low dropout" (LDO) regulators designed for such cases.
Still, they can't make more voltage than what they take in.
For that we use charge pumps or boost regulators.
Both of those are active switching devices.

aaricchavez said:
I repeatedly asked why it needs to be regulated when it's already less than 5v.
I also asked "If it requires 5v then how do devices run with less with USB host on other people's KFs?"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry didnt read all of the posts, butfor this you can use simple step-up converter.
I have solar charger also with li-ion battery which can provide max 4,22 V and I need 5 Volts.
I bought this module on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conve...175?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4165891a1f
Works great, provides nice clean 5V output, max is about 2 Amps, even they are telling more... Could also post my complete solution photo if you want

Renate NST said:
The math may be correct, but unfortunately the circuit is not in series.
The voltages just don't add up that way.
You'd need a "floating" battery (not the built-in one) to make the voltages add.
Getting a higher voltage from somewhere and using a 5 V voltage regulator would work.
However, you might need up to 7 V input because your garden-variety regulator has a "dropout voltage" of about 2.0 at full current.
That's why there are special "low dropout" (LDO) regulators designed for such cases.
Still, they can't make more voltage than what they take in.
For that we use charge pumps or boost regulators.
Both of those are active switching devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's the difference between the built in battery vs an outside battery that would make it add up?
Adding another power source would basically end up being the same as getting a powered hub.
So what Helium, the poster below you, said should work with the 3.3v that the KF already puts out?
HeliumX10 said:
Sorry didnt read all of the posts, butfor this you can use simple step-up converter.
I have solar charger also with li-ion battery which can provide max 4,22 V and I need 5 Volts.
I bought this module on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conve...175?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4165891a1f
Works great, provides nice clean 5V output, max is about 2 Amps, even they are telling more... Could also post my complete solution photo if you want
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to see the photo, if you don't mind.
This one should work as well, correct? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-3V-to...932?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a722f7ccc

aaricchavez said:
What's the difference between the built in battery vs an outside battery that would make it add up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many many ..
Power outputs form every mobile devices are not designed to provide big current. It is many times about 50-100 mA, which is sufficient for flash sticks,keyboards or mouses but not for e .g. hard drives.
If you connect step-up converter to for example 3,3V and 100mA, on output you will get 5V 50mA - this is really not sufficien for even mouse...
But if you use battery insted, it can provide huge current - normally 2000mA max. So if you connect battery to converter you will get 3,7V 2000mA and on output 5V 1400mA. Which could be usable even for low power 2,5" hard driver. Also battery has bigger voltage, so it means, that efficiency will rise up a little.
aaricchavez said:
So what Helium, the poster below you, said should work with the 3.3v that the KF already puts out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, look up in this post
aaricchavez said:
I would like to see the photo, if you don't mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here there are - as you can see. I am charging my phone from standart li-ion battery from GPS with standart 5V USB
aaricchavez said:
This one should work as well, correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, could. But I recommend that I posted before - it has bigger mosfet package, which allows about 0,5W thermal dissipation. On your module are SMD transistors, which can dissipate only 0,1W and are very sensitive to aḿbient temperature. I dont trust SMD components in power solutions.

I'd actually recommend keeping the boost regulator on the smaller side.
Besides the space consideration, it would be nice if there were some current limiting.
I just measured the current draw on a 4GB microSD in a IOGear USB adapter and it was 45 mA.
The wireless mouse dongle that I measured was 15 mA.
I don't have any wired mice to measure, but I'd guess that they would all be around that.

Renate NST said:
I'd actually recommend keeping the boost regulator on the smaller side.
Besides the space consideration, it would be nice if there were some current limiting.
I just measured the current draw on a 4GB microSD in a IOGear USB adapter and it was 45 mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, but you wrote, that his device provides 35 mA max, so it wont be enought for most flash drives. Besides that - you measured in low power (3,3V) or high power (5V) USB mode? Because I expect 5V mode so it means than in 3,3V will be much more miliamps...
Anyway, with boost module it will enable him to use almost everything which has drivers. Not only tiny consumption devices, it will be full equipped active host hub also could be connected with switch as emergency charger...

[GUIDE] DIY Fast Charging mode for N5X (an idea and implementation)

Intro
I do not take any responsibility for any damaged, bricked, burned devices or electric shock caused by your doing. You need basic knowledge of electicity before doing something.
I got my N5X a few weeks ago, and unfortunately found out that all my powerbanks are useless - N5X takes about 400-500 mAh from the battery pack ( via a normal USB -> TypeC cable) and it is not even enough to keep the battery charging - if the screen is on, the phonejust slooooowly discharges
Ideas
So I had a few Ideas of how to fix the problem:
1) Buy a compatible USB Type-C powerpack on Amazon/Aliexpress, wait for it for like 2 month ( I live neither in USA nor in China ) and hope that Fast Charging, oh wait, at least, normal charging will work.
2) Try out all powerpacks I can find in hope that some will have a compatible DATA+/- chip/resistor/shortcircuit combination.
3) Read USB Type-C charging specs and find out what ICs support the so called "Fast charging" like the Qualcomm QuickCharge ( remember, you need a special IC doing voltage negotiation between charger and phone )
Thoughts
Number 1 was not a solution for me because I have LOTS of 18650 lithium batteries ( and also some LiPos my friend gave me) and paying $50 for a compatible battery pack is OMGTOOMUCH :laugh:
Nubmer 2 was a partial solution for me ( and I did find A LOT of powerpacks and tried them out, no result )
Number 3 made me really sad, after reading the specs I found out that you really do need an IC, because Type-C has a special data pin for power negotiations, and it has a special protocol.
Solution
Turned out to be simpler than I thought.
Logic behind my solution: We got a phone that has a special pin in Type-C usb port, that waits for the charger to tell " heeey I am strong,I am legit made by LG, you can take up to 3A from me".
But it is difficult to buy 2-3 additional original chargers ( 1 for work, 1 for home, 1 to be in your backpack), not because they are expensive, but because they just dont sell them in Russia ( the phone is legitimately sold here though). So there should be some other way for the phone to charge rapidly.
So I started experimenting, I thought, that the biggest problem is not the missing IC and negotiation data on USBA-USBTypeC, but the low quality of the cable itself, in other words, its resistanse measured by Ohms is too high. There is one way to compensate the voltage drop on the cable - make the charger voltage cover it, make the charger voltage higher. I took an oscilloscope, a multimeter and a alternate current transformator to measure sudden current drops and spikes.
Experiment
At first I tried 5,2V. Did not help
Then I tried 5,4V. Wow, here it comes better, already charging @ 1,2A ( it was like 400 mA before)
Then I tried 5,6V. The current stayed about 1,2-1,4A ( measured by Ampere App and a physical real current meter)
In all of the experiments I left the DATA pins soldered together - a standart simple way for most phones to think they are connected to a charger.
Then I remembered, that some phones by Sony, some by Nokia and other brands sometimes had a resistor between the DATA pins in the charger, so that, for example you could fast charge a sony from a sony charger, but not from a nokia's one, because sony's had 56kOhm resistor, and nokia had 5kOhm ( values are for example, I dont really remember how it was back then).
So I took the first resistor I found in the box, turned to be 3,2kOhm and soldered it between DATA pins.
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And it worked!
At first I saw a fast current spike on the oscilloscope ( could not take a picture, but it was for about 0,3 seconds ), I think the phone was checking capabilities of the charger by giving a load and watching if the voltage drops. The voltage did not drop below normal value ( 5V ). Output voltage of my charger is stabilised and not depending on the load given, so the phone figured that it fits for fast charging, as the voltage did not drop below 5V ( 5,6V on the charger minus about 0,5V at 2A on the cable leaves 5-5,1V at the phone)
Proof:
Charging current as reported by Ampere app ( real current meter said 1,8A, but it is not a precise one )
What you need to do this:
1) A multimeter ( a good one )
2) An output with voltage above 5,5V but below 5,7V. to compensate voltage drop on a cable ( depends on the cable, measure your cable's resistanse, then you can count voltage drop using Ohm's law)
I got mine first on a laboratory power supply, later on a LM2596 board, ( you can buy it here . You just have to adjust the output voltage to 5,6V. Be careful, you must know what you are doing, for this IC to work, input voltage has to be higher than output voltage for like if you need an output of 5,6V, you need about 7V input ( for better effecancy you need about 12V input )
2) A resistor about 3kOhm between DATA pins of the USB cable on the side of the charger
Conclusion
So by these simple manipulations you can charge a N5X ( and possibly N6P) rapidly with a cheap DIY powerbank/charger.
In a few days I will try to reach 3A charging current cap, I will post results
I would be glad to answer your questions and post the detailed schematics if nesessary.
Cheers!

nikozzzzzz said:
Intro
I do not take any responsibility for any damaged, bricked, burned devices or electric shock caused by your doing. You need basic knowledge of electicity before doing something.
I got my N5X a few weeks ago, and unfortunately found out that all my powerbanks are useless - N5X takes about 400-500 mAh from the battery pack ( via a normal USB -> TypeC cable) and it is not even enough to keep the battery charging - if the screen is on, the phonejust slooooowly discharges
Ideas
So I had a few Ideas of how to fix the problem:
1) Buy a compatible USB Type-C powerpack on Amazon/Aliexpress, wait for it for like 2 month ( I live neither in USA nor in China ) and hope that Fast Charging, oh wait, at least, normal charging will work.
2) Try out all powerpacks I can find in hope that some will have a compatible DATA+/- chip/resistor/shortcircuit combination.
3) Read USB Type-C charging specs and find out what ICs support the so called "Fast charging" like the Qualcomm QuickCharge ( remember, you need a special IC doing voltage negotiation between charger and phone )
Thoughts
Number 1 was not a solution for me because I have LOTS of 18650 lithium batteries ( and also some LiPos my friend gave me) and paying $50 for a compatible battery pack is OMGTOOMUCH :laugh:
Nubmer 2 was a partial solution for me ( and I did find A LOT of powerpacks and tried them out, no result )
Number 3 made me really sad, after reading the specs I found out that you really do need an IC, because Type-C has a special data pin for power negotiations, and it has a special protocol.
Solution
Turned out to be simpler than I thought.
Logic behind my solution: We got a phone that has a special pin in Type-C usb port, that waits for the charger to tell " heeey I am strong,I am legit made by LG, you can take up to 3A from me".
But it is difficult to buy 2-3 additional original chargers ( 1 for work, 1 for home, 1 to be in your backpack), not because they are expensive, but because they just dont sell them in Russia ( the phone is legitimately sold here though). So there should be some other way for the phone to charge rapidly.
So I started experimenting, I thought, that the biggest problem is not the missing IC and negotiation data on USBA-USBTypeC, but the low quality of the cable itself, in other words, its resistanse measured by Ohms is too high. There is one way to compensate the voltage drop on the cable - make the charger voltage cover it, make the charger voltage higher. I took an oscilloscope, a multimeter and a alternate current transformator to measure sudden current drops and spikes.
Experiment
At first I tried 5,2V. Did not help
Then I tried 5,4V. Wow, here it comes better, already charging @ 1,2A ( it was like 400 mA before)
Then I tried 5,6V. The current stayed about 1,2-1,4A ( measured by Ampere App and a physical real current meter)
In all of the experiments I left the DATA pins soldered together - a standart simple way for most phones to think they are connected to a charger.
Then I remembered, that some phones by Sony, some by Nokia and other brands sometimes had a resistor between the DATA pins in the charger, so that, for example you could fast charge a sony from a sony charger, but not from a nokia's one, because sony's had 56kOhm resistor, and nokia had 5kOhm ( values are for example, I dont really remember how it was back then).
So I took the first resistor I found in the box, turned to be 3,2kOhm and soldered it between DATA pins.
And it worked!
At first I saw a fast current spike on the oscilloscope ( could not take a picture, but it was for about 0,3 seconds ), I think the phone was checking capabilities of the charger by giving a load and watching if the voltage drops. The voltage did not drop below normal value ( 5V ). Output voltage of my charger is stabilised and not depending on the load given, so the phone figured that it fits for fast charging, as the voltage did not drop below 5V ( 5,6V on the charger minus about 0,5V at 2A on the cable leaves 5-5,1V at the phone)
Proof:
Charging current as reported by Ampere app ( real current meter said 1,8A, but it is not a precise one )
What you need to do this:
1) A multimeter ( a good one )
2) An output with voltage above 5,5V but below 5,7V. to compensate voltage drop on a cable ( depends on the cable, measure your cable's resistanse, then you can count voltage drop using Ohm's law)
I got mine first on a laboratory power supply, later on a LM2596 board, ( you can buy it here . You just have to adjust the output voltage to 5,6V. Be careful, you must know what you are doing, for this IC to work, input voltage has to be higher than output voltage for like if you need an output of 5,6V, you need about 7V input ( for better effecancy you need about 12V input )
2) A resistor about 3kOhm between DATA pins of the USB cable on the side of the charger
Conclusion
So by these simple manipulations you can charge a N5X ( and possibly N6P) rapidly with a cheap DIY powerbank/charger.
In a few days I will try to reach 3A charging current cap, I will post results
I would be glad to answer your questions and post the detailed schematics if nesessary.
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you're doing this to circumvent the limitation that prevents it from charging full speed from a non factory charger? Because I find that the phone refuses to use the full power available to it if it's connected with a USB type A to C cable or if the screen is on it will not charge fast.

Yes, exactly, check voltage output of your charger, if it's more than 5,5V under load, then you have a good chance

Sounds so interesting!!! Glad you're able to achieve it.. Great write up! Any updates on your work?

What If i Buy a 5V/3A Charger? Is it perfect for Fast Charging?