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I dropped my phone and need to replace the housing. It looks like the digitiser cannot be easily removed from the housing, so I bought one of these as well. Now all I have to do is move the phone from the old housing to the new and install the digitiser in the new housing.
Now it looks like the digitiser may have been glued in place. What type of glue should I use ?
::Pixel.Freak:: said:
I dropped my phone and need to replace the housing. It looks like the digitiser cannot be easily removed from the housing, so I bought one of these as well. Now all I have to do is move the phone from the old housing to the new and install the digitiser in the new housing.
Now it looks like the digitiser may have been glued in place. What type of glue should I use ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More liked taped in...... I'm sure that lots of people will respond with.. Double sided 3M tape.... but if there's anything better/stronger than that on the market use it. Make sure it''s really thin tape to. I'm gonna be replacing my housing in the next month or so aswell. Goodluck.
As I also will replace mine digitizer, the newton rings are bugging me, it will be appreciable if you can share your experiences of the replacement process.
thanks in advance and god luck
Hey on more thing. I took apart my phone last night and put it back just so I know my way around when parts come in.
If your Digitizer does not work try loosening the top srews 1/4 turn. You have them on too tight.
I wasn't replacing mine so I didn't have to remove the existing one. All I had to do was attach a new digitiser to a new housing.
I was told that double sided tape was the best, so I tried that.
I used the instruction from http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2 which was easy enough.
You need to ensure you remove the micro SD card first.
Also I forgot to move the LED diffuser from the top, so I need to repeat the process at some stage.
The housing I bought had a number of issues
* The two screw point near the bottom of the housing didn't have the metal inserts with the screw threads
* There was no seal between the metal housing and the LCD screen. This could let dust in.
That's about it for a brain dump.
Hi there,
I was also tired from that oil stai and ordered a new digitizer from these guys:
http://xxx.sw-box.com/htc-touch-diamond-2-t5353-digitizer-touch-panel-screen.html
Surely it arrived in 6 days, to my horror it was a generic display,
Had some trouble removing the old one, ended up breaking it
The generic did not fit snugly, I had to sand down the edges to make them round, also had some trouble with the four buttons below getting stuck when pressing down, (shaved of some extra plastic). anyway used double sided scotch film to get the digitizer back in place.
apart from a few difficulties, it works like a charm.
Should have ordered an OEM but what's done is done
Next time I'll do the cover and get a new digitizer
Regards
I would of thought double sided tape too thick to use to stick the digitizer on.
I was thinking of using a very thin sliver of clear silicone.
Anybody tried this or have any other suggestions?
Thanks
I used a very thin layer of supergleu and it worked great!!
My digitizer came pre-glued. I didn't need any sort of glue.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=715724
Silicone is OK
I used a very thin layer of black silicone and placed a book on top of the digitizer to keep it pressed flat into the case as it dried overnight. No problems since then...
The missing metal screw inserts can simply be pulled out of the old housing ; insert screw halfway and gently pull with plyers. Carefully hammer into the new casing; insert screw 3/4, put something thin and metal on top to prevent the screwhead from getting damaged and carefully hammer into the void. Make sure it goes in straight.
I've got exactly the same issue with my new housing, no bottom screw threads and no foam for the lcd to rest on. Am trying to pull the threads out with pliers but I think the old case is going to break first or strip the threads.
This is isn't an easy job
have finally finished this epic!!!!
had to break the bottom screw threads out of the old front housing and took a good while hammering them into the new housing so I didn't break it.
used a small sliver of clear silicone to glue the digitizer in which seems to work well so far.
Have not put any foam or anything for the LCD to rest on, time will tell what effect this has.
I need to change mine as well. Where can i buy a good quality digitizer and case preferably pre-glued?
I found a few on ebay but i am not sure of the quality.
Thanks
Today i searched also for shops which have digitizers and housings. I have found 2 shops, but one of them is a german shop (http://www.mobileok.de) which does not deliver outside of germany and austria. But the other one does: http://www.sw-box.com/
what kind of glue? it's the third time that i'm re-gluing it, but dust keeps coming inside....
I guess, it is not possible to hermetical seal the housing. I had dust in my original housing too. There are a lot of small gaps everywhere not only between digitizer and frame. But it would be easy to disassemble the device from time to time, remove the dust and reassemble it again. Save your energy in the effort to make your device dust proof.
Hello
Today my loved Touch HD fell down and the front glass of the touchscreen is broken now :/ Because the reparation is so expensive, I think about repairing it by myself. Now I just want to ask you: Is this the right part?
(Picture 1.PNG in the attachment)
Or do I have to take sth like on the 2.PNG?
Picture0017.jpg is a photo of the broken touchscreen.
And another question: Is it hard to do this by myself?
Thanks
Greetings,
IceFire32
PS: Sorry for my bad english :/
Hi i did this myself. It is a little fiddley. At the last stage removing the glass from carriage was worst bit. Had to apply a substantial amount of pressure. (see the metal distorted off the back of the sensor)
I only wanted to change the casing. Ended up breaking the glass and tearing the connecting ribbon on the sensor.
Since your replacing this part anyway the whole pocess is much easier.
I got the parts off ebay. Cost me £56 in feb.
there is a good tutorial linked in this forum somewhere. Do a search. Guy with a strong italian accent.
PS get some double sided tape. as thin as you can find it.
and be very careful how you place the glass back in or use a weak adhesive tape.
Watch the tutorial. (search the forum) to see where he pushed to dislodge glass.
Hope this helps.
EDIT
"meyourchum" has provded a link to get offical disassembly instruction with lot more information.
Check it for yourself
Hello folks,
I had a chance to work on my friends arc who bought a Rogers version and dropped it. He had it totally mess on the case and needed the full housing replacement.
I hope that doesn't happen to anyone. I didn't take any photos but I am trying to explain everything as it was to help anyone with this.
General Note:
- Anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
- Be very gentle to your phone in this process
- Besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue(Sticky Back) and snap(plastic for main board)
- Using this information on your own risk as I don't take any responsibility if anything happens to your phone.
Instruction
1) Remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
2) Need star shaped screw driver[Trox](I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny) This is what I bought
All the above we all have seen them
3) After removing the 6 screws remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
4) Main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened.
5) Little board on the bottom is glued(sticky back @ top) which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
6) Majority of the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
7) Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
8) if you are doing a full housing replacement, then there are stuff here and there that you need to remove and re-use it on the new housing(Like 3.5 mm jack, HDMI lid, etc.)
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.
1st time... ehm.. taking the Arc apart, that is!
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz
Hope u have the courage to make a video next time
Sent from my Arc using XDA premium App
xelion said:
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem. I would be more than happy to answer. Lets see just some general stuff...
Note: anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
Note: be very gentle to your phone in this process
- you remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
- you need that star shaped screw driver(I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny)
All the above we all have seen them
after removing the 6 screws
note: besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue and snap(plastic for main board)
- remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
- main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened. I change full housing and not sure if you have to remove the hard key button from the bottom end of the phone too or not but that little board on the bottom is glue which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
- All the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
- There is a big one which goes to the screen you have to dis-attach that before removing the screen
- Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.
Can you answer this??? It get's hot here (and also in the same spot on the front.. so what's inside at this point??
CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.
Nimche said:
CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .
Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?
hellocng said:
Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glue part, they are more sticky than glued. You just simply stick it back where it was.
Where is the silver face you found?
This is retarded from them...
Digitizer and screen(one part) are sticked to the front face. In order to for your to change the faceplate only(front) you may have to go through the whole process because the wires from digitizer are going through a big hole to the main board. You don't want to mess around with $700 or $800.
Inside, everything is small. really small. I thought I totally screwed up the whole thing. Technology has gone forward alot since I was a kid putting radio together.
Good Luck
prathaban said:
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there are two board one above battery and one below batter @ bottom of the phone
On top is the main board
on bottom is the board for hard keys.
Nicely put together but they could have done a better job there....
Are there three parts to the housing? I assume there is the front plate, middle housing with the chrome, and the battery cover. The mainboard should be in the middle with the chrome. So I can't just detach the screen front the front plate? What is holding the three pieces of housing together? The six screws?
There are silver housings on eBay from time to time. Though, blue is a lot more common.
Three pieces. Back battery cover which is nothing.
Then there are two main pieces.
Chrome which is more like a holder of the fascia.
If I remember correctly, the front Fascia is the one holding all the board on it including that metal look piece(aluminum probably)
I will take photos and upload here...
Uploaded photos to the first post...
Hey, I'm looking to replace the chrome piece which has a few nasty chips in it, after removing the second back cover, how easy is it to take off that chrome piece?
Great post
How can I replace digitizer? I dropped my phone and the glass cracked
anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.
how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?
soldiers33 said:
anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you could have sent a private message.
I bought the screw driver here at local tool shop. Home Depot sells them.
Its called Trox Screw Driver and I bought exactly this one http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100087664&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100087664&ci_kw={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100087664&ci_gpa=pla&locStoreNum=618
I don't have the packaging but they should be standard.
Good Luck
mps83 said:
how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can find the whole housing between $30 to $40 but the front cover is that actual main piece that holds all the internal components + the screen.
If the crack doesn't bug you much, I would not do it since you have to replace the sticker behind you battery as well, which is not easy to peel off + you have to take the screen off the old front fascia which is glued and kind of hard to take off.
Downside of the whole thing for me was the sticker. I have to find an alternative for this problem.
I recently tried repairing a friends HD2, because he had a smashed screen.
I bought the new screen and some 2mm double sided tape. Took the phone apart, and managed to see the lcd was damaged also. Bought one of those then taped the new screen and lcd together using the tape.
The inner chassis had all the old tape on it still, so I bought a new inner chassis. Waited for it, then stuck the new lcd / digitizer to it. The button end didnt seem to stick down that well - even with the new chassis, with the buttons wanting to drop out, and them not sitting out of the screen like they should.
I thought it must be due to the phone only partially assembled, so went ahead and installed the rest of the phone.
Now its together the button end of the phone wont sit in the shell properly and the buttons seem to be lower than they should...
How am i supposed to get this inner chassis to stick properly, and are there any tips or vids to show how its supposed to sit?
thanks.
maybe this video can help you with assembling your phone.
Search on youtube for t8Q7mXdcJ54.
Ive watched that video numerous times, and its a little misleading as to how much is required. Extra tape in places that had to be cut and removed, labels not sticking back down like they do in the video etc.
Im after information as to how people stuck the lcd/digitizer to the inner chassis. I used a new inner chassis with tape pre applied, and it still didnt seem to stick the two things together enough. When you stick the chassis (with lcd/digitizer) into the outer case, it doesnt sit into the case enough, and the buttons are not sitting right.
If u have purchased lcd with digitizer,u could look for flat cable that connects from lcd to mbo,maybe u need to form it.buttons have points to allign,but u need to center both sides in micrometer to function normal.lcd/digitizer frame must have black tape on edges.
Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk
kew1701 said:
If u have purchased lcd with digitizer,u could look for flat cable that connects from lcd to mbo,maybe u need to form it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please explain? Not sure what u mean by "form it"
buttons have points to allign,but u need to center both sides in micrometer to function normal.lcd/digitizer frame must have black tape on edges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
done this and still no luck
I have the same problem like foney!
See this:
argh, i can't post my photos! how to do it now, i don't have 8 posts yet!
I've used "3M 300LSE" as a profesional doublesided tape i thought and also put a 2mm stripe below the keyboard, but the display is not really fixed onto the chassi around the keyboard and the keys also can't be used really, because they are maybe not correct centered onto the keyboard circuit board. i've been using the assembly video from htc, but there it's not mentionend very well, how to do it right.
foney said:
Please explain? Not sure what u mean by "form it"
Maybe it need curved angle to 100% fit
done this and still no luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm,last thing i can think is that lcd/digitizer is not properly glued/taped.Did u put pressure for few hours on lcd/digitizer and middle frame?
it is taped on around the lcd using 2mm 3M double sided tape. The chassis i bought new, with tape included. When you stick the lcd/digi to the chassis, it appears that the button end, as l0rdius mentioned, isnt stuck down enough.
The video has the guy "magically" sticking it all together and all going together as it should, but doesnt show any real detail, like showing how things go together to fit properly.
edit/ pulled the phone apart again, and its definitely a case of the tape on the chassis near the buttons not sticking correctly. Ive wrapped it in rubber bands, and used some wooden clothes pegs to try to secure the two better. If it doesnt stick, then I may have to use something stronger than tape, like Tarzans Grip
I've found another thread, in which "profahmad" posted some hints:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328&page=8
Today i've ordered some more 3M 300LSE and want to take a new try on weekend with these hints. Hope i get the display better glued to the chassis and the buttons correctly justified.
Whats about the sticker under the battery. do you guys have problems reassembling it again and again? Or how do you handle it?
l0rdius said:
I've found another thread, in which "profahmad" posted some hints:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328&page=8
Whats about the sticker under the battery. do you guys have problems reassembling it again and again? Or how do you handle it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im using glue like in the link if applying pressure for a day or two doesnt work.
I applied a little double sided tape under it, then when i left the phone for a few days with the battery in it seemed to stick down fairly well. Not like factory new, but good enough.
Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....
My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.
Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks
Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
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Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
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Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
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Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
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Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
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Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
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You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
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Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!