menu and back not working ande range signal - Galaxy S I9000 General

Hi. My touch keys menu and back is not working, home key works. Menu and back sometimes work,mostly dont. I tried all ROM and kernels version but not improvement. I think keypad ribbon flex cable is broken GENUINE-SAMSUNG-KEYPAD-FLEX-RIBBON-CABLE??
Yesterday i opened phone and now i have low signal range.
I wonder is why my buttons dont work can it be related to flex ribbon cable malfunction?

sorry, dont know if it is related to flex ribbon cable malfunction?
But my advice is you should send the phone to Samsung for repair and not attempt repairs on it yourself.
Of course if you have the skill then you should try yourself but if you are covered under warranty then you should get it repaired.
Best of luck!

Thank you for your time.
I am from Montenegro, there is no one here who could do it.
I ordered keypad flex cable, i will try with it. If anyone has any suggestions let say

That glue used for bonding parts of the phone? Display a little air...

I have to paste his display and menu and back keys.
That glue I use?

I replaced the flex ribbon cable but menu and back is not working! Maybe touch is not working?

Related

physical problem ... audio cuttoff with slider...

I dont know if anyone opend their wizard up.... mine is the tmobile mda..
the earpeice does not work when the slider is closed... or halfway...
the keyboard has to be slid completly open for any sound to be heard...
i know its a loose connection somewhere in the slide.... anyone know how to fix it?...
just started happening a few hours ago.
and now neither works... only works in speakerphone... wth is going on
It sounds as if your rigid flex cable is kicking it,
However your phone speaker could just be loose. It is affixed to the front plate and not the Rigid flex board.
I would try to troubleshoot with a dissassembly.
if the main ribbon cable is torn you should replace the rigid flex board. If your speaker is loose or broken You can look on XDA to see if someone is selling one.
ok.. i just read the service manual on how to dissassemble the wizard...
i just want to get a few things straight...
the rigid flex board is the board for the keyboard right?...
ribbon cable is that big thick silver ribbon right?...
if said cable is torn... i have to replace the entire rigid flex board? or can i just replace the ribbon cable instead?
if the speaker is loose... all i would have to do is tighten it... if it is broken .. all i have to do is replace it right?...
------
im sure the speaker isnt broken.... because it was working when the slider was slid open... and not working when it was closed.
bigjoe87865 said:
ok.. i just read the service manual on how to dissassemble the wizard...
i just want to get a few things straight...
the rigid flex board is the board for the keyboard right?...
ribbon cable is that big thick silver ribbon right?...
if said cable is torn... i have to replace the entire rigid flex board? or can i just replace the ribbon cable instead?
if the speaker is loose... all i would have to do is tighten it... if it is broken .. all i have to do is replace it right?...
------
im sure the speaker isnt broken.... because it was working when the slider was slid open... and not working when it was closed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there bigjoe,
where did you find the service manual for the Wizard? I have audio problems myself (the mic and speaker just died, i can´t hear anything and the caller can´t hear anything, but the damn thing rings nonetheless!) and my warranty is up. So I would like to take a peek inside!
bigjoe87865 said:
ok.. i just read the service manual on how to dissassemble the wizard...
i just want to get a few things straight...
the rigid flex board is the board for the keyboard right?...
ribbon cable is that big thick silver ribbon right?...
if said cable is torn... i have to replace the entire rigid flex board? or can i just replace the ribbon cable instead?
if the speaker is loose... all i would have to do is tighten it... if it is broken .. all i have to do is replace it right?...
------
im sure the speaker isnt broken.... because it was working when the slider was slid open... and not working when it was closed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, Here are the answers in order.
The rigid flex board is the board you see in the top portion of the wizard (where the screen and buttons are housed.)
The master ribbon cable is the big thick silver one yes.
I would replace the board it could just as well cause problems.(it's not too expensive)
If it is loose re-seat it in it's place. If broken replace it.
---to epatnor
Have your first tried hard reset?
It sound as if your master cable is or rigid flex board going, but it could simply be your speaker and mic.
The service manual is here:http://www.megaupload.com/?d=BEG0XKM8
Hope this helps you.
-M

Damaged HD2 before even using :(

So i bought a used HD2 so i could get rid of my Aria and do a dual boot
The digitizer was bad so i bought that as well as a new screen, replacing it the main flex ribbon that connects to volume port broke which is unrepairable and the pcb where the flex connects to the socket lid broke half way when removing the tape so dang fragile.
But the ribbon still goes in and it still closes, so the main issue is the flex ribbon with the broken volume button.
So my tech is an idiot. But i really want to use the HD2. Is there somebody that has those parts and can fix it?
I already spent $65 on the digi and screen so i feel
Yes go onto ebay and look for hd2 side volume key pcb.
It's a lengthy repair but nothing too difficult if you like electronics.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-HTC...ultDomain_0&hash=item1c21fcc331#ht_1766wt_964
found it, should have some fun now

Digitizer suddenly broken?

Yesterday I was working on my HTC HD2, flashed WP7 Mango on it, and opened it again to align the plastic keys with the hardware keys undeneath. It didn’t really work out, so I carefully seperated the digitizer from the display to realign theglass abovethe keys. Now The keys work perfectly, but the screen doesn’t react anymore. I have no clue what could’ve went wrong, the digitzer flex cable is still perfect, aswell are the others which connect the screen to the motherboard. Anyone have a clue what could’ve went wrong? I hope it can get fixed easily
I’ll try to hold the ‘end call key’ while using the display. Seems like that will help to entight the connection.
Fix: So I took the Display out again and checked the connection of the digitizer at the back of the screen. It was loose. So i've put it in place and fixed the connection with some extra tape.

HTC HD2 assembly problem

Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.

HD2 screen and input jack problems.

Hello,
Where can I find a good replacement for HD2 digitizer?
I have Windows Phone 7.8 on it (I had the same problem on Android) and sometimes when I am using it, the digitizer registers my touches wrong.
Seems to be the left side is most affected by this - Like when I press e, it presses q also, or w then q too. Also happens with s (a) and symbols. Cannot even pinch to zoom.
This has rendered my HD2 a unpractical phone. It started randomly last summer.
Should I change the digitizer in this case or is there something I can try?
Also, my input jack is messed up - when I have a headphone connected to it and the plug shakes in the slightest - The phone things I want to pause the song or play it. Also activates the voice search which is a freaking PAIN.
Can anyone please help me and tell me what I should do about these issues?
Digitizer & other parts such as assembly tape can be found on eBay.
Dosome homework on digitizers & stripdown guide to save yourself from common problems/mistakes.
Audio plug maybe harder issue to rectify, it can be replaced but requires a good solderer to do good job. You may improve things by cleaning socket & cable plug & trying to improve contact spring arms tension position in socket with a pin or similar.
Mister B said:
Digitizer & other parts such as assembly tape can be found on eBay.
Dosome homework on digitizers & stripdown guide to save yourself from common problems/mistakes.
Audio plug maybe harder issue to rectify, it can be replaced but requires a good solderer to do good job. You may improve things by cleaning socket & cable plug & trying to improve contact spring arms tension position in socket with a pin or similar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But does this issue seem related to digitizer being faulty or just a cable a bit damaged? Sometimes the issue appears and sometimes it doesn't.
Ribbon on digitizer is all one piece & any permanent repair usually is only really achieved by replacement of digitizer.
I have had similar issues of screen presses activating other area on screen & dead zones on digitizer error & also the more common no touch issue, all required digitizer to fix .
Anyone know where to find a replacement jack in the USA??
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app

Categories

Resources