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I have a couple of small cracks on the plastic casing of my new Pure.
I was wondering if the casing from the TD2 would fit right on this phone, or if they are not compatible? I like the look of TD2 casing and that it doesnt have the little "door" over the charging connector, I hate that thing.
Otherwise, any suggestions where to get new casing?
Thanks in advance,
-rezilient
They are compatable, but you would need the antenna for the regular TD2 case because they are different. No housing I have seen includes this, so if you find one let us know. Oh, and you would also need a different digitizer to fit the new housing
A little expensive, but a good shop:
http://cnn.cn/shop/t5353-touch-diamond2-topaz-c-277_829.html
Or you could try ebay
Hello, can somebody help me ?, One day my hd2 fall on the floor and my digitizer crash, after that phone works well i had only few cracks on the sreen, 2 months later my phone fall second time but only from low-altitude on the floor. and my lcd stop work phone only vibrate and boot sound works but the lcd is black.do you think is somethink wrong with lcd or with motherboard ??? thanks a lot
It is the LCD, it has stopped working. Your digitizer may have stopped working too but you have no way of knowing this though as the LCD is not working. You can get a replacemeant digitizer and LCD that are already connected to repaiar it with. Do a search or have a good look through the threads in the back pages here and you will find a good bit of threads on people that have done this and go to Youtube and have a search there as it is some great DIY videos on doing this on there.
my digitizer gone away in first crash i dissamble it and best place for buy is ebay ? everything here is CE china export D
Macoko said:
my digitizer gone away in first crash i dissamble it and best place for buy is ebay ? everything here is CE china export D
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah ebay will probably be the best place to get replacement components. And just a tip the Euroupean HD2 and T-Mobile HD2 replacement digitzer and LCD combos will fitt in either version of the HD2. But the T-Mobile ones do not have to me soldered to the main board and the Euroupean ones do have to be soldered. Now I do not know if the connector on the ribbon of the T-Mobile ones will be able to plug in to the Eroupean ones as i do not know if they have the resiprocating connector on the main board of the Eroupean models.
i have european version(non-us) P/N 60H00295-00P with ribbon wich need soldering digitizer so i look on ebay.but still i have care about motherboard:/
T-Macgnolia said:
Yeah ebay will probably be the best place to get replacement components. And just a tip the Euroupean HD2 and T-Mobile HD2 replacement digitzer and LCD combos will fitt in either version of the HD2. But the T-Mobile ones do not have to me soldered to the main board and the Euroupean ones do have to be soldered. Now I do not know if the connector on the ribbon of the T-Mobile ones will be able to plug in to the Eroupean ones as i do not know if they have the resiprocating connector on the main board of the Eroupean models.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not true!
T-mobile touch is connected to LCD through small connector and European version HD2 touch have to be soldered to LCD, but BOTH versions of 'LCD+touch combo' are connected to M/B through connector, no soldering is needed at all!
pvii said:
Not true!
T-mobile touch is connected to LCD through small connector and European version HD2 touch have to be soldered to LCD, but BOTH versions of 'LCD+touch combo' are connected to M/B through connector, no soldering is needed at all!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may just be right my friend, it does look as if they both have the connector for the Main board. The combos come with the LCD and the digitizer already together, so yes there is no need for soldering. I was under the impression it was not his way. I will do further checking into this later as I just pulled up like 10 different sites but none show a picture that is conclusive enough for me to say for sure but good catch there pvii.
T-Macgnolia said:
You may just be right my friend, it does look as if they both have the connector for the Main board. The combos come with the LCD and the digitizer already together, so yes there is no need for soldering. I was under the impression it was not his way. I will do further checking into this later as I just pulled up like 10 different sites but none show a picture that is conclusive enough for me to say for sure but good catch there pvii.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More of that, cable and connectors have the same size and pin nimber, seems that they are interchangeable (LCM+digitizer assembly of course). Motherboards have the same size and shape too, NAND is the only difference I could observe.
Hello , my volume buttons have stopped working , i have opened it and seen that i need a new flex cable , my hd2 version is tmous 1024mb , on ebay i only have seen T8585 flex cable.
It will be good for my model? because i havent seen different flex for my model anywhere and i think it will be good. Just need to be sure. Sorry for my bad english
i think they use same cables but i'm not sure.just google it
Found nothing on google. Anyone can help with this. i think i will order it , because i cannot found flex for tmous.
Wait! They don't use the same flex cables, the Euro and Tmous versions have different motherboards, cases and flex cables! I work on them ALL THE TIME.
connexion2005 said:
Wait! They don't use the same flex cables, the Euro and Tmous versions have different motherboards, cases and flex cables! I work on them ALL THE TIME.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They USE THE SAME flexes!!! I have both Tmo and EU versions, all cables are compatible (bottom buttons, main flex cable, LCM), I've tested all of them. Yes, MoBo of TMo is a little bigger and wont fit in an EU housing, but all connectors are absolutely the same in both phones.
Anyone else please comment, because I need new flex for t-mobile version.
so flex is the same between 2 versions?
Second, anyone have any good tips on how to separate lcd and digitizer without breaking lcd?
because everytime I try to separate lcd from digitizer from touch pro2 they break!!
is the hd2 the same? glue together?
DJ_MiX said:
Second, anyone have any good tips on how to separate lcd and digitizer without breaking lcd?
because everytime I try to separate lcd from digitizer from touch pro2 they break!!
is the hd2 the same? glue together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try nearly welded together
DJ_MiX said:
Anyone else please comment, because I need new flex for t-mobile version.
so flex is the same between 2 versions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG! He doesn't believe me!
These cables have the same contacts and more of that, the same P/N: 50H10116-01M.
I changed one broken in T-mobile model with one from EU HD2 version and it works as needed, camera, BT, WIFI, all as with the original cable.
Other alternative is to solder broken connections if you have eagle eyes
DJ_MiX said:
Second, anyone have any good tips on how to separate lcd and digitizer without breaking lcd?
because everytime I try to separate lcd from digitizer from touch pro2 they break!!
is the hd2 the same? glue together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you heated LCM to 60*C before separating them? And YES, in EU version digitizer and LCD also are sticked together with double-sided scotch-like adhesive which looses most of it's stickiness at 60-63*C and digitizer may be separated with thin plastic sheet, I use a half of credit card (they can be very easily separated in two thin sheets).
pvii said:
They USE THE SAME flexes!!! I have both Tmo and EU versions, all cables are compatible (bottom buttons, main flex cable, LCM), I've tested all of them. Yes, MoBo of TMo is a little bigger and wont fit in an EU housing, but all connectors are absolutely the same in both phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The connectors are the same but there are two different part numbers. I always replace with the correct one so I suppose maybe they are the same size. However many times there can be small changes involved the people are not aware of. A manufacturer I deal with on these has 2 different numbers and has strict writing of which one to use with which phone. So for me, it wasn't worth using a Euro flex on a Tmous HD2 when they are similar in price.
Can you give me a link where to buy usa hd2 flex cable?
connexion2005 said:
The connectors are the same but there are two different part numbers. I always replace with the correct one so I suppose maybe they are the same size. However many times there can be small changes involved the people are not aware of. A manufacturer I deal with on these has 2 different numbers and has strict writing of which one to use with which phone. So for me, it wasn't worth using a Euro flex on a Tmous HD2 when they are similar in price.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did not understand, I did not checked only connectors, I've installed in a TMo HD2 main flex from European version, works perfect, just as the original one. If You want, you can replace only "correct one" but I wrote in my post for those who can buy main flex only for EU version because of shipping limitations or for about 20$ less in price (I didn't found main flex for TMo less than 64$ and for EU version price is 42-43$).
Just for knowledge, It can be repaired if you are able to handle an soldering iron with micro-tip and have a 20x magnifying glass. It will loose it's shining look, of course, but who will see it without opening the phone
How fragile is the Flex cable for the bottom buttons? I've got a HD2 with a broken digitizer that I replaced but the bottom buttons don't work anymore and neither do the lights on it, it was working before I took it apart and I have been careful with it. Same thing happened on another HD2 I tried to fix.
Also the ribbon cable for the LCD screen is very hard to connect again because of the tight angle it bends and goes in and the tab on the connector that locks the cable doesnt seem to lock it properly and the colur looks slightly faded unless I put pressure on it which makes it work normally.
Any ideas?
the connector is pretty fragile and there is a high wire density on that small flex cable tip. I were in your situation yesterday, managed to get the buttons working after some 8 tries at reconnecting that flex cable to the motherboard. Try to insert it as deep as you can get it and try to secure it tightly.
The display connector is fairly easy to connect, i make my connections while keeping the display tilted at about 90 degrees from the mainboard.
Don't worry about that, it isn't the baddest situation you can get (try doing the same thing on a htc herald or some older querty keyboard eten's .. that's a real hell)
ontopic.. ah yes, the flex cables are 100% compatible, one of my tmous hd2's has an eu flex cable. It's working just fine. Electronically speaking.. they contain 100% same components.
pvii said:
They USE THE SAME flexes!!! I have both Tmo and EU versions, all cables are compatible (bottom buttons, main flex cable, LCM), I've tested all of them. Yes, MoBo of TMo is a little bigger and wont fit in an EU housing, but all connectors are absolutely the same in both phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right.
LCD screens are different bu you can change them only if you change as an assembly of digitizer-lcd.
housing, chasis and mother boards are different, the rest can be exchanged.
I've successfully taken my HD2 apart now I'm not sure about the digitizer I need. My phone doesn't have a T-Mobile logo and it came with the leather pouch which I read means it's not the T-M version.
I'm looking for a new digitizer and the one that looks like the connector would fit says it's for the T-M version. Rather than go on about it here is a pic of my digitizer. I'm in the UK so if anybody has shopping suggestions I'd be grateful.
Ty
hypertyper said:
I've successfully taken my HD2 apart now I'm not sure about the digitizer I need. My phone doesn't have a T-Mobile logo and it came with the leather pouch which I read means it's not the T-M version.
I'm looking for a new digitizer and the one that looks like the connector would fit says it's for the T-M version. Rather than go on about it here is a pic of my digitizer. I'm in the UK so if anybody has shopping suggestions I'd be grateful.
Ty
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't say too much based from picture posted above ...
It could have already replaced unbranded digitizer or it's Telstra, European, Taiwanese version... Are the call and end buttons colored on your phone (green and red respectively)?
If You have enough money, about 89-120$, better choice will be to buy a LCD+digitizer assembly also named LCM, they will work at all versions of HD2, not only T-mobile or European, I tested the LCM from European HD2 with in a T-mobile version of HD2 ant it works perfect. So go on eBay.com and buy one
Call buttons are all grey. I've though about getting the whole combo but it's more than twice the price and I'm not exactly rich so it would have been nice to just get a digitizer. I was hoping there would a way to identify properly which digitizer I need. I've sent a message to one of the suppliers on ebay. I'll see what comes out of it.
According to this article the different versions of the HD2 aren't physically the same size in terms of casing. Do the LCM units fit all the same?
pocketnow"dot"com/thought/t-mobile-hd2-vs-htc-hd2-comparison
Clarification
hypertyper said:
Call buttons are all grey. I've though about getting the whole combo but it's more than twice the price and I'm not exactly rich so it would have been nice to just get a digitizer. I was hoping there would a way to identify properly which digitizer I need. I've sent a message to one of the suppliers on ebay. I'll see what comes out of it.
According to this article the different versions of the HD2 aren't physically the same size in terms of casing. Do the LCM units fit all the same?
pocketnow"dot"com/thought/t-mobile-hd2-vs-htc-hd2-comparison
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me help you:
#1.your picture is defining an uncommon/unbranded TMO(bile)US touchscreen(No doubt about, at least for me!), but grey hardware keys are for international HD2 model, probably you have a (let say) hybrid (home made)version between american(TMOUS) and international model;
#2.nevertheless, in your financial position, I'll look on ebay for an appropriate touchscreen model(there are plenty, most of them with very clear pictures like your's) for about US$30-40;
#3. if you want a combo, as far as I know(and pvii already said it) the 2 LCMs are geometrically identical, but the frame/chasis on which lay on the LCM is different(the american model is longer on 2,0-2,5mm);
#4. international model is cheaper & easier to find.
For more informations/help feel free to contact me!
Cheers!
hypertyper said:
Call buttons are all grey. I've though about getting the whole combo but it's more than twice the price and I'm not exactly rich so it would have been nice to just get a digitizer. I was hoping there would a way to identify properly which digitizer I need. I've sent a message to one of the suppliers on ebay. I'll see what comes out of it.
According to this article the different versions of the HD2 aren't physically the same size in terms of casing. Do the LCM units fit all the same?
pocketnow"dot"com/thought/t-mobile-hd2-vs-htc-hd2-comparison
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May be it will be better if You post a photo of rear side of your display or at least say it's product number (from sticker on square copper pad, rear side), i.e. P/N:60H00300-00P is for T-Mobile and P/N:60H00295-00P is for international version.
If You don't have enough money for a european LCM combo, you can buy a LCD apart and digitizer apart, even from different sellers but you have to buy matching parts, both for European or both for T-Mobile version.
Thanks for the info guys. The serial number is the kind of solid identification that I was looking for. The serial on my screen ending in 300-00P indicates that it's the TMobile version.
My theory is that since this phone was bought when it wasn't exactly new on the market HTC had switched to the solderless screens which seem more modern?!?
I'm assuming that in terms of connection the digitisers that look like they will fit in terms of connection should work. I'm only worried about the dimensions of it since the casing of mine is smaller than the real TMobile version from what I can tell.
Since I can't find anything else on ebay I guess I'll order one of the TMobile ones and see if it fits. I'll look for a shop with return policy just in case.
Thanks for the help. If anybody has further suggestions I'd love to hear them.
[/QUOTE]I'm only worried about the dimensions of it since the casing of mine is smaller than the real TMobile version from what I can tell.
Thanks for the help. If anybody has further suggestions I'd love to hear them.[/QUOTE]
Read carefully my previous post:
you don't have to be worry, the touchscreen, lcd and lcm are geometrically (length x width) identical!
I'm only worried about the dimensions of it since the casing of mine is smaller than the real TMobile version from what I can tell.
Thanks for the help. If anybody has further suggestions I'd love to hear them.[/QUOTE]
Read carefully my previous post:
you don't have to be worry, the touchscreen, lcd and lcm are geometrically (length x width) identical![/QUOTE]
Yupp, any LCM will fit on any model of HD2.
I wasn't sure which part was identical but if the digitizers are then what I ordered should do the trick. Digitizer should arrive this week so hopefully I'll have something to report about
edit: Digitizer arrived and fits perfectly. I guess my phone was some weird mutation. Solution is to just buy a digitizer with the correct connection, job done.
Oh and getting the right tape is a total *****. I had to take everything apart again because my tape wasn't strong enough!
I thought I'd post my findings and produce some cliffnotes on how I fixed my HD2.
Firstly, if you search youtube for "leo as" and "leo dis" you will find the official HTC videos on how to assemble and dis-assemble the HD2. They make it look easier than it is. Also, they don't separate the digitizer from the screen.
I ordered the tools to "dis" off ebay. Especially the T5 screwdriver was worth getting since it allowed me to find out which digitizer I need. I have a non TMobile version but needed the TM digitizer.
I found that using an old credit card type of card works very well for taking the phone apart. It can reach further into the phone and bends rather than breaking like some of the cheap tools from ebay.
Especially for separating the digitizer and screen it's great. I heated up the digitizer & lcd combo in the oven for a couple of minutes like the video advertised for taking the middle part of the phone apart (you'll see in the vid). Here comes the interesting part: Instead of sliding the card / tool all the way across the screen (between screen and digi), it's enough to just separate it around the edges. There is no glue or adhesive in the middle. It seems obvious now but I got lots of glue all over the LCD which was a bit** to clean.
Another tip that is worth repeating is getting the cheap double sided tape from ebay which is meant for Iphone digitizers (3M branded). I got three of them for £1 incl delivery. I used it to put the "middle" of the phone together. Screen and digi I did with cheap double sided tape which is working but I regret somewhat.
Another tip would be the whit cable (flash?) which goes on the bottom of the mainboard. I put it on top to start with. It's easy to mix up. Also it makes sense to put one end on before you put down the mainboard because that way you still have proper access.
Make sure you have good tape and be patient. I had crap tape and just slammed things together because I was so keen to see if the phone still works. I had to take it all apart again which almost broke the phone because it was coming apart in all sorts of places.
Overall it's like a big, fragile puzzle. I got the phone from a family member who had dropped it so all I had to get was the digitizer and tape. Now I have the best phone that ever lived
If anybody has questions, I feel like I know the hardware of the HD2 inside out.
I also took mine apart to replace the digitizer. I haven't got the new one yet though. I also watched the take apart vid on youtube. Unlike you I didn't disconnect the white wire from under the board. As a matter of fact, I left the other wires attached to the mainboard and just disconnected them from the GPS, camera and Bluetooth boards. At the end of the little channel that the wires are in, there was a little metal tab that held the wires in place. I just bent the tab up to remove the wires. Like you I used a piece of credit card to loosen the glued pieces.
Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....
My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.
Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks
Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
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Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
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Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
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Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
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Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
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Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
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You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
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Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!