Related
Well it went and happened last night...
While getting out of a car, the belt clip release button got pressed in by my stab-proof vest that I wear for work (this is a design flaw in it's own right, in that any other belt clips like this I have seen, slot the handset 'down' into a channel, and not hang on a hook like the default XDA2 one does - this means that at least then, if the button release becomes pressed, it still needs the device to defy gravity before coming detached - with the XDA2 belt clip, as soon as the button is pressed, as it's just a hook, it falls off).
So my XDA fell just a couple of feet, if that, onto the ground. And even then, it had its standard leather cover on. But of course, the standard cover is less than cr*p, in that it leaves nearly all of the sides exposed!
And now I find I have a slight dent on the side of my previously impeccable XDA2. But worse, slight scuffing or scratching too.
And this is where my issue comes from. With any other device, a rough scratch could be polished out. But with the bl**DY stupid XDA2 material, this is the opposite, in that the normal finish is a brushed, fairly matt aluminium.
But if it gets even slightly scuffed, what actually happens is that it reveals the under layer, and produces in effect, a shiny polished scar. So polishing it is no use at all.
I have owned 28 mobile phones, blackberries, and various other devices in my time. And this is the first device I have ever owned, that has been scuffed beyond apparent easy repair. And worse, I have only owned it a month at most.
I am foaming about this - especially given the series of shortcomings with the device and cover/clip etc, that lead up to this.
But what I need to know now, given that my XDA2 works fine, is this:
Has anyone yet discovered a good way to 'get rid' off minor scratches or scuffs on the material of the XDA2, to cover the shiny material that gets exposed, and leave it with the same sort of brushed matt finish the it normally has, or any paints/primers/touch up cans, that match it?
Please help anyone!
I've attached a photo below, but it doesn't capture it too well, especially as what I HAVE done, is cover it all in lead pencil, then rub it in.
This has reduced a lot of the shine, but of course, this will soon polish off again, so I need a proper solution.
Not sure how to get the dent out, but just get another leather case, a better one than the free one in the box. That should cover the unsightly mark and you won't have to look at it any more. Either that or claim off the insurance if you have it, but then again they may not pay out for cosmetic damage
Some fair advice there mate - cheers.
Only thing is though, you can see it all to well when its on the cradle, and I don't like it cased up too much (both issues of perception I know).
Additionally, I do have insurance, but it's an extension to Home Contents, so my premiums would jump up next year, they would not pay for cosmetic damage, and if I were to even consider a failed ROM upgrade death by pulling power half way through (and I wouldn't dream of that now would I?), then the problem is, the scratches would make it look like the (THEN) failed unit was caused by dropping it.
So I couldn't do a warranty claim, and would be back to the insurance one.
So, given that I can live with the minor dent, has anyone found any cure or solution for scratches, to cover it up back to the original finish of the XDA2?
There must be some solution, paint, primer, filler, or something out there?
Sob sob...
This is funny... I have some scratches too (my XDAII I mean ) but underneath these scratches ale looming some dark material, nothing shiney at least.
I couldn't get rid of the scratches, but polite polishing removed the jagged edges so I won't cut my ear anymore while on the phone.
You could try going for a radical approach and give it a paint job.....either a can of spray silver/aluminium effect, or metallic or matt black - WOW. There are some great effect paints (although less is more in my view).
Use insulation tape (or masking tape) to cover off the screen, buttons, holes etc. You can use the covering as you see fit - you might want to leave some areas (top) silver.....
Hows about getting a dummy XDA II and swapping the cases over?
There is one on ebay at the mo
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4183588276&category=32242
Is it the same real aluminium, and is it difficult to swap over?
Has anyone done this, can give me an idea what is involved?
Although i haven't done it before, i would have thought it was a few torx screws on the back of the case to undo?
Dummy phones are usually proper phones without the internals, usually display models in shops. From my experience the ones in shops are the full casing, just without the inside.
Best thing to do is ask the seller what his is before you bid any money for it. Also ask the conditoin, as if its been mauled in a shop, it could be scratched as well
Ex-display shop ones also usually have some sort of anti-theft bolt through them, which might be less visually appealing than a little scratch on the side. :wink:
sublimatica said:
Ex-display shop ones also usually have some sort of anti-theft bolt through them, which might be less visually appealing than a little scratch on the side. :wink:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah - that's the bit that worried me too...
I'll ask about.
Also, to remove the torx screws, means puncturing a Warranty Void label, which is a bit steep for a scratch.
Oh well...
wats the trouble ... ?
why dun you just get the casing REPLACED?! you had already paied 800usd for your machine ... another 100 bucks will get u a new casing. :idea:
Er no - I paid a mere £120 british pounds (around 150-170 USD?) for it on contract.
And more importantly, as I just put in one of my last posts, that would invalidate the warranty.
So if I HAD paid that much for it, there's no way I would invalidate the warranty for a few scratches.
They bother me a lot, for sure. But spray, or paint, is a bit different to invalidating the warranty on a one month old XDA2.
Cheers for the input though.
your damaged xda2
you can buy a new O2 XDA II Aluminium case athttp://www.mobiledatadirect.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=136_129&products_id=975
ok try that
Er thanks, but that's, well, er, a CARRY CASE, not the phone shell itself mate.
Cheers though.
And the correct link is:
http://www.mobiledatadirect.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=136_129&products_id=975
Help
I've only owned my exec a couple weeks and already I notice the pivot hinge loosening.
Has anyone tightened theirs? If so, any tips?
Get in touch with HTC and see if its warrantied.
Likely just needs something tightening.
Altho I work in a customer service department for a laptop repair workshop and they would likely accuse you of having bent it the wrong way and class it as "Accidental Damage".
In which case you'd be getting a bill for a hinge (£12) and labour (£130).
You may find HTC are a little nicer than my lot tho. Hehe.
Thanks for the reply. I was hoping to be able to unscrew the hinge myself, but I wanted to know if anyone's tried it themselves yet.
My other stupid question is; How do I get in touch with HTC? Anyone have a link? Can't google it.
I bought my unlocked O2 Exec new, but not from O2. I'm in the U.S. and I'm afraid they might not help me because I'm not a customer.
Nowhere I can just drive to for repairs either, because this unit isn't sold here.
Thanks again.
I don't have a loose hinge yet, but I'm sure we will all be at that point eventually. I noticed two small screws on the inside of the hinge (underneath the screen part) when you twist the screen half way around. I wonder if they do anything useful
I've noticed those screws as well. There's also a single screw on the base side. The base metal piece is the wiggly part on the non-screw side (right).
I'll wait another day or so to see if anyone has tried this yet. If I don't get a response, I'll hold my breath and give it a go.
If it works and I end up tightening my unit - great.
If not, then I've just made a very expensive mistake.
Either way, I'll update my post here with the results..
I can't be the only person with an exec/universal that has a loose lid. Pls excuse the pun.
hazer said:
Thanks for the reply. I was hoping to be able to unscrew the hinge myself, but I wanted to know if anyone's tried it themselves yet.
My other stupid question is; How do I get in touch with HTC? Anyone have a link? Can't google it.
I bought my unlocked O2 Exec new, but not from O2. I'm in the U.S. and I'm afraid they might not help me because I'm not a customer.
Nowhere I can just drive to for repairs either, because this unit isn't sold here.
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HTC warranty the product unless a third party warranty provider is nominated - which is very unusual in the first year tbh.
Normally you return to the point of sale and they will either repair it or replace it themselves and bill HTC or send it back to the manufacturer.
In this case the product is less than 28 days old? So in the UK you would be covered by the Sales of Goods Act 1979 and entitled to a repair or if you so choose an exchange. This would probably also be the case in some form or other in the USA, but I suspect since this was a product originally intended for the UK market (and if the seller was British) you would be bound by this law.
Since you're in the US you will likely have no warranty with the retailer ie. o2 since large companies often operate warranty services within the borders of the nation it was originally purchased in and never beyond.
So you're best bet is to contact HTC - whom are an international company - and they will assess the claim and arrange shipping to and from either a) an authorized local repair agent or b) back to the main repair and warranty facility in whichever country that is.
As far as I am aware you should definately either contact the point of sale if a large company and enquire as to the repair service route or just skip them compeletely and go for the manuafcturer.
For the European Union the warranty provider is: http://www.htceurope.com/
There doesn't appear to be one for the USA.
I'm sure there is but its likely going to be a case of shipping it back to Dubai or wherever anwyay so ping them some mail and see what they say.
Either way you must act quickly and keep a record of all correspondence.
In the UK we call consumer rights 'statutary rights' and the electronics world often goes far far beyond these in terms of warranty repair/s.
The only caveats are often companies assume that since you arent asking for or invoking your rights on a certain issue that they don't need to inform you of them.
YES, I have opened mine up & can give some insight. firstly it's all very robust and safe to open the hinge on the base side (have not opened screen side). it'a ALL metal - screw, plate u can see, & chassis screw goes into - so little/no danger of loosening things by unscrewing.
u will 1st find that the single screw on the base side may be half a turn loose. tightening it with a jewelers screwdriver will make a hug defferenc4e. possibly same benefit screen side but there r more screws there so I doubt it.
if u undo screw, base pops out as it hooked at one end, and thus only held by this 1 screw. u will find a nice, strong, ropey cable linking 2 halves - NOT a ribbon that breaks the moment u open this up - so safe again.
next, u can bend the plate slightly so that it sits lower in the middle. this makes a huge difference to screen looseness or play when in position. it's like tensioning a bow.
so, all very easy and safe FOR BASE SIDE. screen side looks way more delicate & hopefully someone will update this thread with similar info.
I found that when I dropped mine a few times, the screw came loose. a bit worrying cos it means a thread miust have skipped. but now I know that if the screw ever strips I can get it re-tapped by a jeweler and a new screw put in. there's enough chassis 4 this I think. please let us know how it goes.
Shame no pics ...!
:lol:
yeah, exec battled 2 take pics of its own arse when dissembled
First let me say THANKS to Gubbs and Craigie!
Unfortunately it's now past closing time at HTCEUROPE, so I'll have to try and call them tomorrow.
I tried to take the pda apart and concur with Craigie regarding its simplicity. The wiggle in my Exec comes from the pivot and not the base plate with the single screw. I tried to remove the lid side plate by unscrewing the 4 screws that hold it, but it cannot be removed w/o spreading the plastic housing which holds the LCD. Scary.
There are 2 additional screws which bind the plastic housing (can be seen w/o taking anything apart). There are also 2 rubber inserts at the tip (tried, but can't pull out). So, my theory is that by removing the 6 lid screws and these rubber inserts, I'll be able to separate the plastic halves and remove the metal plate. Again...SCARY.
I'm hoping there's a screw which tightens the pivot. From what's visible it is made up from a press fit washer and a bent spring washer around a metal shaft. If there is a screw, it's on the side I can't get to. If there isn't a screw, then it's got to be another press fit washer used to hold the assembly together. I can use pliers to squeeze the opposite washers toghether if I can get to them.
If I have to, I'll send it to HTC. But I'd rather try and fix it myself to save the time lost and expense. Granted I should stay away from coffee or any other caffinated products before I do.
Just seen this posting by "stot" selling a replacement screen for the Universal, he gives a link showing instructions for stripping down the Universal, any help with tightening the hinge?
Thanks Stot!
http://www.artworkfiles.com/XDA/
Regards
When I did open up the screen there is no inherant way of adjusting the tension of the spring. It is basically a rivet with a curved washer that gets squashed and provides the tension.
Only thing I could suggest would be to squash the rivet section on 2 sides with a pair of pliars, or vice grips may be better so that you can set the pressure, i.e. close the vice crips and adjust them so that they are snug on the edge of the rivet, open them, adjust them closed evvver so slightly and then close them on the rivet. This will basically put more tension on the washers.
Its from the school of smack it til it works but its all I can think of.
Ill put some more pictures up of what I mean on that link shortly.
BTW. wanna buy a screen?! :wink:
Thanks
Stot
I think it was the swivel action some were interested in any suggestions to tightening that mechanism? Photo's would be good too, or is that one a case of squash it with pliers too?
I dont need a screen myself sorry my friend
Hope you find a buyer!
Hi,
Yeah Its the swivel I mean, not the opening mechanism. Pics are up you'll see what I mean.
Just noticed this is the idea Hazer had and ill agree thats the only way to do it.
Cheers
Stot.
Brilliant Stot! Great work my friend, the pictures are perfect. Thanks
Regards
These pics are fantastic gooroo.
All of you who have contributed to this tread - THANK YOU.
As soon as the kids are asleep tonite and the wife is watching tv - I'll get started. I'll need the peace and quiet required when handling such a delicate operation.
Think I'll wear a mask and gloves, just to make it official. I guess I won't be needing my tablesaw or reciprocating saw. Too bad.
I've gotten as far as spliting the lid from the main section, but I was afraid to split the lid in half in order to get at the metal plate. No more.
I'll report soon.
Thanks guys.
Pictures unavailable?
It seems http://www.artworkfiles.com/XDA/ is no more available!
Has anybody downloaded the pictures and instructions?
Can you please sent them to me?
I have the same loose hinge problem...
Thanks in advance
Anton
anton.ruzicATijs.si
Hey,
It's easy tightening the hinge! Mine was lose, and when I say lose I mean basically spinning 360 degrees! So what did I have to lose... nothing. I took my Exec apart.
When you rotate your screen.. to the right of the light sensor and 'Xda Exec' text there is a grey metal panel, with a small standard 'phillips' screw in there. Undo this one screw, and the metal plate will lift of. In there you will find a thick cable that connects the screen and the hardware keyboard. Simply twist the wire up a bit (you'll understand what I mean) and then put the panel back on, screw it up, and the screen will be tight as it was new..
I have started to notice that the hinge is starting to get lose again - wait there and I shall do the above proceedure again (undo the metal plate, unwrap the cable, wrap it back up and screw up) - oh look it's tight as brand new.
Don't worry about loosing anything whilst un-screwing you exec, NOTHING pops out!
Good luck - you won't need it!
I'll keep an eye on the thread incase there is any questions.
Pete
That's a brilliant post Pete. When my hinge comes loose I will not have any fear about following your instructions. Luckily, the missus is an optometrist, so she has plenty of tiny screwdrivers, etc. Maybe I can get her to do it, that way if she breaks it, it's not my fault... :wink:
replacement Screen Help
I read the post and I thought someone said they have a link on where to buy a replacement screen for the HTC Universal. Can someone help me... I drop the device and the screen cracked Lcd.
In my quest for finding a home button replacement for my i9000m i have been hitting nothing but dead ends. I have talked to the provider, samsung canada and many third party parts distributors to no avail.
So after a little bit of thinking i think i may have found a solution but i need help from someone with a dummy phone. I think that the home button housed in the dummy phone is an actual production button.
Can someone with a dummy phone take it a part to verify? Perhaps even a picture of the button? If that is the case cnn.cn offers dummy phones for the SGS for $9.99 which is cheap for a solution to the button replacement.
Im grasping at straws here guys, please help!
that's an excellent idea for 9.99 might as well just buy it and find out
worse case scenario you can do what i mentioned on your other topic
just cut out the button from the dummy phone (in case it's not an actual button)
then stick it over the old melted button
just flush the old button polish it, then super glue them together
you got nothing to lose for $10 bucks + shipping
AllGamer said:
that's an excellent idea for 9.99 might as well just buy it and find out
worse case scenario you can do what i mentioned on your other topic
just cut out the button from the dummy phone (in case it's not an actual button)
then stick it over the old melted button
just flush the old button polish it, then super glue them together
you got nothing to lose for $10 bucks + shipping
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got off the phone with a friend at a bell retail store and she might be hooking me up with an extra dummy she has for free. If it goes through i will smash the thing apart and document it here. God it would be nice if thats the case haha. Remember kids, heat guns melt plastic haha. What a dumb mistake haha.
yeah lets see what are salvageable from the dummy phones
probably the entire shell, chrome borders, and back cover, the buttons as well fingers crossed
I would imagine everything is the same except for no innards and a plastic front instead of the glass. I have a small mark on the chrome trim that i would love to swap too.
usually the dummy phones comes with a nice big chunck of Lead inside
(funny thing, before i typed Lead i wrote Plutonium )
Price of metal these days the lead is probably worth more than the phone!
Here's an idea, why don't you get a small piece of aluminium and craft it to fit?
It would only take some files and Wet and Dry, I replaced a part on my old Motorola Mx220 with a piece of self made aluminium strip .
Logicalstep
There is no way that it can be hand made. Its a plastic button with a rubber backing that wraps through the circut board and back behind the button.
The dummy phone was a no go unfortunatly. Samsung canada wouldnt help either. Neither will bell. They wont even give me a number to and sevice depots.
There is no way that it can be hand made.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you an engineer? I bet it can be. It might not have the small lip on it, but you can probably to the rest.
Logicalstep
Logicalstep said:
Are you an engineer? I bet it can be. It might not have the small lip on it, but you can probably to the rest.
Logicalstep
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No i am not an engineer are you? Have you seen the button it self? Is it wrong for wanting to have OEM parts in my phone instead of a backyard mikey mouse hack job?
Ulimatley i could fabricate something myself. I have access to various cnc mills and water jet machines that i could use. But i dont want to...
Introduction:
When a button mechanically clicks, that is the signal to you that you've done your part and you should expect the button to do its part. While I've seen this on several other devices, the Nexus7 2013 apparently has a widespread problem which manifests itself in "having to press the power button a certain way". This is caused by the glue used to assemble the buttons having seeped under the contacts.
Here's the fix.
You will need:
A gituar pick
Rubbing alcohol
A Q-Tip
Superglue
Instructions:
1. Remove the back cover from the device with a gitaur pick.
2. Peel up the tape/laminate covering the power button.
click for larger picture
3. Clean off both contact surfaces using rubbing alcohol.
click for larger picture
4. Reassemble the switch by replacing the tape
5. Using just a dab of glue on the edge of the button assembly, secure the button tape/lamination back into place.
6. Reassemble the device.
Conclusion:
And that's all there is to it. You may decide to skip the superglue during reassembly, but its a good idea to use it generally as removing the tape weakens the hold of the manufacturer's adhesive.
Make no mistakes, this is a manufacturing defect and you should have the ability to return the device to get a new one if you experience this problem. But, after this procedure, the power button should work easily, every time.
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
silentheero said:
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Xdatv is coming up on Wednesday and I will add that into here..
Glad to see the fix is easy. Not surprised to see the issue since Asus has just been making crap in terms of quality for a while now. Nexus 7 was better then I thought not having the crap asus quality but the new one has Asus all over it. Used Asus stuff for years and after the crap G75 laptop I had I will never get anything made by Asus. Sucks I wanted a new nexus 7 guess I'll wait till Samsung or lg or Motorola makes the third version.
Asus has just dropped off a cliff the past few years. They dident even go downhill they went from great to utter budget crap even the ROG line. Waiting to see the last great Asus products go down the same way. The Rog mobos. I was really hoping Google would push some weight saying they have to do some QC on the nexus 7.
Anyways great guide. But I'll add that on electronics you want 90%+ alch. Get the colorless with no scents added. Those leave traces behind. Should not matter on buttons like this but if anyone was wondering if they could use the red or green alch. I advise you to get the highest % with no colors or sents added. At my work for cleaning pcb's we use 98% but anything over 85% is great.
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
mjoa68 said:
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
AdamOutler said:
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
mjoa68 said:
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
AdamOutler said:
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is definitely much easier to get into the case starting near the buttons as there's more flex to it there. I suppose a better way to say it might be that if you can get started on the opposite side you will avoid possibly cracking it near the camera like I did. But you'd probably be fine starting near the buttons as long as you're very careful (and not as clumsy or impatient as I was ) working around that first corner.
I aint never had to open up anything like this and will have to to replace my screen. So glad I found this thread first and will be sure to check out the unboxing video before I do. and Yes isopropyl is a much better cleaner than other alcohol based solutions. Gonna do them buttons while Im in there.
I would not be nearly as daring to attempt any of this without the guidance from seasoned members. Thank you so much!!
Thank you so much! the power and volume buttons worked again flawlessly!
But I damaged my N7 13's thin black metal like bezels around the screen when I'm trying to open it, that stuff is really fragile :/
i did this, but i also placed on the power button contact a small piece of 'thickener'... in my case it came from a double sided tape. the sticky part contact on the power button contact, and the other side which has the cover (of the double sided tape), i didn't remove that cover. effectively, a small 'thickener'. then close back the device. fixed!
Adam, a quick question on this power/volume button thread. I got my Nexus 7 2013 version very briefly wet - I mean for a micro second. It does charge, but it won't power up. I can get it into bootloader and the volume buttons work, however, the power button does not. Is there a good way to test the power button using a multimeter or, should I just go ahead and replace the power button/volume button strip completely and hope that does the trick?
Thanks!
Chris
Chris: wet Nexus 7 bootloader only with volume buttons
Hi Chris,
My nan also got her tablet wet and can only access the bottloader with the volume buttons. Did you find a solution to make the power button work in the end? I've got a very useless paper weight sat around :/
Mike
I lost the rubber mic grommet replacing a cracked screen even knowing it was there. After 20 plus years coding with shot eyes, I paid my 2 nephews to come over and crawl around to find it (wife's phone - nuff said). Still took over an hour to find. So I put a small amount of rubber adhesive around the edges to make it fit snug. I've had it apart 4 times since and it stays put.
Sent from Ponius using XDA-Developers Legacy app
My wife's Essential PH-1 screen filled with lines while she was using it (listening to music). Phone continued working until she tried to reboot it.
After reboot screen now looks like this. I tried powering off, then power+vol-up and power+vol-down but just see the same.
I think the cpu is still working as pushing buttons elicits the tactile vibration response but screen seems gone.
Obviously Essential is out of business. In addition I've read a few posts that even when they were in business they were not repairing dead/cracked screens rather just replacing the phone.
So here is the question. Is it repairable? If so, by whom? At what cost?
dorkshoei said:
So here is the question. Is it repairable? If so, by whom? At what cost?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the issue is really just a failed screen and not the mainboard, it's most definitely repairable, and the replacement can be done relatively easily at home (been there, done that). Good quality aftermarket replacement screens are available and not expensive (I bought mine on Amazon more than a year ago for US$70, and now I can see them for less than $50). The process itself is of average difficulty (not too bad compared to some other phones), but could be a bit too much for someone with no experience whatsoever. Fixez.com has a great and useful video (don't use the guide from ifixit.com, they screwed up this one).
I am sure any repair shop would be able to do this job, if you are not a DIY kind of person, but I have no idea what they would charge. Or think of any friend you may have who is good with electronics (hobby or pro)...
kt-Froggy said:
If the issue is really just a failed screen and not the mainboard, it's most definitely repairable, and the replacement can be done relatively easily at home (been there, done that).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought I'd read that the PH-1 was very hard to access, that iFixit basically trashed one trying to get it open. It has a 1/10 repairability rating on the site.
I've done LCD screen replacements before on other phones but always the ones with a plastic case where it's just a simple task of opening the back using a spudger.
Yeah, no clue if this is the screen or a mainboard issue. $50 isn't bad if it's the screen but it's wasted cash if it turns out to be a deeper problem.
Okay, that's funny. I just put my fingernail under the bezel and saw it was loose. Lifted slightly and the entire screen popped off as it there was zero adhesive.
Okay, screen replacement looks fairly simple at this point, IF IT IS THE LCD. I have a tube of B-7000.
dorkshoei said:
I thought I'd read that the PH-1 was very hard to access, that iFixit basically trashed one.
I've done LCD screen replacements before on other phones but always the ones with a plastic case where it's just a simple task of opening the back using a spudger.
Yeah, no clue if this is the screen or a mainboard issue. $70 isn't bad if it's the screen but it's wasted cash if it turns out to be a deeper problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's why I said don't do it the way Ifixit did, LOL... Watch the video from fixez.com. You need to be careful, and know how to use a heat gun properly. Otherwise, it's not that hard. And you need to get either a narrow (1mm) adhesive tape or a liquid glue to mount the new screen. Also, a couple of things to watch out for around the earpiece opening and silicone gasket for the front camera. If you consider a DYI job, feel free to PM me, I'll be happy to help. My PH-1 has been working perfectly since the repair in Feb 2019, and I've done screen replacements quite a few times on similar phone designs like Sony Xperia Z series.
kt-Froggy said:
You need to be careful, and know how to use a heat gun properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an SMD rework preheater that works great for softening the glue on screens, far more precise than a heat gun .... but as I said above I don't think I'll need it
Now, the issue is whether it's a mainboard issue or LCD.
Fixez seems to have a screen for $24
https://www.fixez.com/essential-phone-ph-1-screen-replacement
dorkshoei said:
Okay, that's funny. I just put my fingernail under the bezel and saw it was loose. Lifted slightly and the entire screen popped off as it there was zero adhesive.
Okay, screen replacement looks fairly simple at this point, IF IT IS THE LCD. I have a tube of B-7000.
https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Digitizer-Replacement-Assembly-Complete/dp/B07CLNDBZS/
@kt-Froggy Is the above what you were referring to. I guess I can always order, see if it fixes, else return it.
Fixez has one for $24
https://www.fixez.com/essential-phone-ph-1-screen-replacement
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Click to collapse
Yep, that's exactly the screen I got, and left a detailed review on Jan 29, 2019 (from a user KT). $24 from Fixez is even better, and sounds like a no-brainer. And if your screen is already removed, then you don't have to do the most difficult part. Just plug in the new screen and confirm if it works Like I said, be careful around the earpiece opening and the gasket. Good luck!
Ok, ordered from Fixez. We shall see if it corrects the issue.
dorkshoei said:
I thought I'd read that the PH-1 was very hard to access, that iFixit basically trashed one trying to get it open. It has a 1/10 repairability rating on the site.
I've done LCD screen replacements before on other phones but always the ones with a plastic case where it's just a simple task of opening the back using a spudger.
Yeah, no clue if this is the screen or a mainboard issue. $50 isn't bad if it's the screen but it's wasted cash if it turns out to be a deeper problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search the Reddit AMA posts on the Essential sub-reddit from the fall of 2017. Essential was asked about iFixit's teardown and rating. Essential's response was that they gave iFixit instructions to opening the phone but they ignored them completely. They said you apply heat to the sides, even gave a specific temperature, to loosen the adhesive and use a suction cup to lift the screen off. Most people use some thin tools to get under the screen though. But it's much easier to do than iFixit makes you think. I'm not sure why they ****ed that up so badly. Ignore their guide and find a better one.
My concern is how fragile the screen is. I want to replace the battery but haven't opened this phone yet. I have seen lots of people replace the battery and damage the screen.
gk1984 said:
Search the Reddit AMA posts on the Essential sub-reddit from the fall of 2017. Essential was asked about iFixit's teardown and rating. Essential's response was that they gave iFixit instructions to opening the phone but they ignored them completely. They said you apply heat to the sides, even gave a specific temperature, to loosen the adhesive and use a suction cup to lift the screen off. Most people use some thin tools to get under the screen though. But it's much easier to do than iFixit makes you think. I'm not sure why they ****ed that up so badly. Ignore their guide and find a better one.
My concern is how fragile the screen is. I want to replace the battery but haven't opened this phone yet. I have seen lots of people replace the battery and damage the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, big surprise with the guide from iFixit... This one left me scratching my head. Probably the only one I know where they so royally screwed up.
A few comments from my experience replacing the screen on PH-1... The screen on my phone was shatterred badly enough to make a suction cup useless, so I had to pry it out (still, with a heat gun). There was no concern about saving it, anyway. But if I had to open up the phone again, e.g. for replacing the battery, I am pretty confident I could do that safely. From the repairability standpoint, there are two problems with the screen on this phone. One is a very narrow shoulder to mount the screen assembly to the frame (but this is also a good thing, as there's not that much adhesive to struggle with). And the other is a very fragile "sandwich" behind the glass that contains the LCD and the backlight components. It's too easy to damage that sandwich from the sides with a tool, even made of plastic. It will be pretty obvious once you have a replacement screen in your hands and take a close look at it.
A general issue with disassembling the phones of this design at home is that most people will not be able to heat the perimeter evenly to lift the screen off by a suction cup only (I know I can't). So, you would most probably have to use some tool around the edges. The trick is to NOT pry the screen out (or you will crack the edge), but only use a tool to carefully undercut the adhesive as you pull with a suction cup, so the screen can separate from the frame. This way, you can gradually work your way around the perimeter, while heating it up and lifting the screen with a suction cup. A thin plastic spudger would work. If you really feel adventurous, maybe a hobby knife, but I don't recommend it. I would suggest starting from the top, as the adhesive strip under the earpiece is extremely thin, and it would be easier lifting off that part of the screen as you heat it.
Another thing is to NOT reach deeper than about 1mm under the edge of the screen with any tool, otherwise you are risking damaging the LCD assembly.
Update. Screen from Fixez.com ($28 shipped) fixed the issue. Happy wife. Happy me.
Easy install, just used some B7000 glue I already had. Clamped screen down for 24 hours.
@kt-Froggy thanks for your help and encouragement.