Database Users

[Q] Android Universal remote

OK, well i have searched for about a week now and feel either it doesnt exist or im just not looking in the right place. I'm interested in programming a universal remote for my EVO but the problem i am having is finding the hardware to make it work.
What is needed:
Wifi to RF converter OR
Bluetooth to RF converter
Does anyone have any clue where to find one? You would think that with Iphones popularity with their phone attached junk someone would have gotten smart and made one that you could just sit next to your entertainment system so that you dont have to plug in a device to your phone....
Anyways, i didnt find anything on here, not online, nor in the underground layer of electronic geeks... jk. I dont have the skills to build my own device or i would. I'm taking computer engineering so maybe someday i will.
Any help from you gods at Xda would be appreciated.

You can buy a Bluetooth to Serial port converter, like this one:
http://www.totalpda.co.uk/+/Bluetooth-Serial-RS232-Adapter.7562.html
Maybe you could then find a serial or legacy IR transmitter device to send the IR signals to your devices. I'm assuming they are IR and not RF.
You could use something like this for the IR unit:
http://www.expansys.com/actisys-ird...=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=base
So you connect both units near your equipment, Power them somehow, point the IR device towards the Equipment, Connect via Bluetooth to the Serial Port Profile and assuming you are sending the right signal for the device you should have control.
Of course because it works both ways, you could 'Read back' the signal from your remote control into your android application and store it against the event you want to fire via your GUI controls. Simples.
hmmmm yes...I think that'll work
Logicalstep

I think the easiest solution would be to write an android app to use the ir dongles that plug into the headphone Jack. There are a couple out there... most of the iPhone adapters plug into the headphone jacks, I believe. Also there was one out for winmo years ago.
Anyways, I think they just convert audio signals into ir remote signals, so the app would just need the collection of audio signals for the various ir signals needed. I bet you could get one of the iPhone ir dongle companies to help out in writing an app, cause that would mean another market to buy their hardware.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App

I'm liking the first one. But not the single idea. Not. Many people I know would want to buy a single and risk losing it when you could have a stationary device sitting right there. Plus if it could be wifi connected then you could control it from anywhere.

Maybe I did not look hard enough, but I could not find a "similar" Android Universal Remote systems like the ones below for the iPhone. I'm looking for an Android UR application that allows an Android Smartphone, that has no IR, to interface to an existing IR blaster via WiFi or Blutooth to control AV components. It is possible that I miss it, so if someone can point me to one I'd appreciate it. If none is available, maybe someone can write an Android UR app that can interface with one the "existing" IR blasters that work with the iPhone. These IR blasters, as you can see below, are not that expensive.
I was impressed by how the UI is easily customizable in the iPhone app in the video for the UnityRemote... Who knows... maybe gear4 is already writing an Android app for it.
http://us.gear4.com/product/_/93/unityremote/?cid=31
http://www.slashgear.com/griffin-beacon-makes-your-iphone-4-a-universal-remote-07124546/
http://www.slashgear.com/peel-fruit-turns-iphone-into-show-suggesting-universal-remote-08118392/

A101it mainboard hacking and chipset information

Hi,
as i wrote in another thread, i purchased a bricked A101.
There's no response from the system so i decided to start investigation on the hardware .
A101it chipset information:
Processor
• Ti OMAP3630 (515-pin CBB/P BGA package) ARM Cortex A8 at 1 GHz with DSP
• POWERVR SGX530 Graphic accelerator: 3D OpenGL ES 2.0
Memory
• 256MB LPDDR SDRAM (168-pin PoP BGA package) soldered on top of OMAP3630
• 8/16GB eMMC (169-pin BGA package) connected to OMAP3630 internal mmc2 interface
Interfaces
• USB slave 2.0 (OMAP3630 internal interface, MicroUSB connector)
• USB host interface (TPS65921 host interface, TYP A connector)
• Micro SD slot (OMAP3630 internal mmc1 interface, SDHC compatible)
Display subsystem
• ChiMei 10.1" TFT-Display N101L6-L02 (18Bit-LVDS interface)
• Ti SN75LVDS83B LVDS transmitter (56-pin BGA package)
Touchscreen subsystem
• Pixcir capacitiv touchscreen unit (TR16C0 controller, USB interface)
• Ti TUSB2551A USB transceiver (16-pin QFN package)
HDMI subsystem
• NXP TDA19989AET 24-Bit HDMI transmitter
• HDMI output (19-pin Mini HDMI connector)
Communication
• Ti WL1270/1 WiFi (802.11 b/g/n)
• Ti WL1270/1 Bluetooth 2.1 EDR
Miscellaneous
• Built-in speaker
• Built-in Microphone
• Freescale MMA7660FC G-sensor
• Omnivison OV7675 VGA camera (0.3M)
Power source
• Ti TPS65921 power management chip
• Intersil ISL9220 LiPo charger
• Internal: Lithium Polymer battery
• External: 5V/1A Power adapter/charger
To get some detailed informations about these chips, i made a sweet datasheet collection.
Grab the zip-file here.
TBC...
EDIT: The brick issue is solved.
The platform did not boot up due to a broken connection to onboard RAM.
This thread will present various hacks and other stuff a geek might have fun with
Read on for some more information.
So here's my first result:
I successfully located the sys_boot signals of the OMAP3630.
I made a first test by changing the default boot mode.
With sys_boot5 pulled high the boot order changes to peripheral boot first.
In other words you may use this tool to directly access the OMAP memory (e.g. RAM).
In theory it should alos be possible to boot the device form external microSD as well, but at factory default the microSD slot is covered by power management. In other words, power is switched off at boot time.
This could be hacked as well
My attempt will be to un-brick my device by using external boot mechanism.
Maybe i'll need some help at a later point!
EDIT: Peripheral boot modes had successfully been verifed.
It definitely works on the Archos 101. Perhaps this may be useful for some open bootloader project.
Aynway, i already discovered some other things, that might be helpful for hardware hackers. So if you are kind leave a comment or ask some questions.
Stay tuned!
scholbert

Oh, that's interesting ... I don't know anything about hardware hacking but I'd like to learn hope you will show us ... keep on the good effort ... and I'll keep an eye on this tread .... might come handy ... jejeje

sounds great, keep on rolling

peripheral boot
Hi,
thanks for your replies.
So as expected using peripheral boot over USB/UART is working (sys_boot5 pulled high).
At least the ASIC ID is send correctly and the initial communication starts.
See the screenshot attached.
Flash V1.6 also got a eMMC driver included.
So this could be the way .
Right now there's an error message:
Code:
Unknown status message 'dKAYd 2nd stdrted?' during peripheral boot (waiting for 2nd)
I guess the response should be: OKAY! 2nd started?
EDIT:
MMMh strange... i'll have to find out who is generating this message.
If it is comming from OMAP the SDRAM setup should be verified.
Seems that the LSB byte stuck @ 0x64.
Code:
dKAYd 2nd stdrted?
ascii = dKAY -> hex = 0x59414b64 (msb..lsb)
ascii = d 2n -> hex = 0x6e322064
ascii = d st -> hex = 0x74732064
ascii = drte -> hex = 0x65747264
ascii = d? -> hex = 0x00003F64
See the session log file for more details!
Anyway i justed started to play around... maybe some tweaks in the configuration are needed
Have fun!
scholbert

Pretty Cool

Thanks for attesting coolness
Made some further tests... though my time is really limited right now.
I found out that the message is send from 2nd loader which is used for Ti's Flash tool.
So this might indicate that there's something wrong with my memory or memory bus.
I re-checked the RAM setup sripts for the Ti tool again but could not find any error. Reduced the timing as well. Still got that message...
It's very strange that the pattern really seems to stick, which is unusual for damaged memory... i will report further findings.
Anyway this is open discussion, feel free to post
Cheers,
scholbert

Nice try. Can you tell us about the RAM, it's built in the mainboard or changable?

We already know that, it's built-in ^^
(some have opened their Archos before ^^)

trungvn1988 said:
Nice try. Can you tell us about the RAM, it's built in the mainboard or changable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.archosfans.com/viewtopic.php?f=74&t=42806
Soldered on, not changable by anyone with home soldering tools. Very small ball soldering. I gave it an attempt, even got a replacement 1GB RAM module as a test piece... Didn't work out well for me.
I'll definitely be keeping an eye on this topic, seems like some good information might come of it.

.............yippie yeah it's working out!!!!
Thanks for the feedback
First i'll have to quote myself:
It's very strange that the pattern really seems to stick, which is unusual for damaged memory... i will report further findings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guess what...... it's fixed!!!!!
I really go crazy. See attached log file.
External boot over USB and 2nd loader started up successfully, using the Ti tool.
So RAM is working now!
This definitely saved my day...
What happened exactly?
As i pointed out, the data on memory bus stucked at 0x64, so i assumed there was an issue with DQM/DQS signals on PoP memory.
See some related documents about the function of these signals on RAM chips.
The DQM/DQS where not toggled in the right way because of bad soldering at the PoP memory chip.
See the attached pic for the excact position of these signals (marked in red).
The chip itself is soldered on top of the OMAP3630.
In the end i used a hot-air solder gun and soem soldering flux and fixed the broken connection. In fact i used this "technique" some time ago to fix a "No GSM" issue on HTC Hermes.
Though i'm very excited right know, i'll have to make a break for today, because i have a date
Harfainx said:
I'll definitely be keeping an eye on this topic, seems like some good information might come of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes i'll try my very best
Kind regards,
scholbert

Guy, it's so nice! Keep up the good work!

datasheet collection
Hey,
i was lucky last week. My device is up and running.
Fortunately the eMMC data structure was O.K. In the end my device refused to boot, because of that broken connection to the RAM.
So there'd been no need to fiddle around with eMMC for now.
Maybe i'll do some investigation at a later point.
Feel free to set up your device for peripheral boot and try the Ti Flash tool debugging possibilities.
Right now i decided to re-assemble the device and use it for a while.
I must assume that i know nothing about the internal structure of the firmware. So it would be essential to get some insights
I got some additional information about the eMMC/microSD data lines.
If there's some interest i might post further pics.
To get some background about the chips on the A101 mainboard, i collected some datasheets of the main components.
Grab the zip-file here.
Most of them are easy to find other's are not
Anyway, saves your time i guess.
BTW, is there any tool to unpack gen8 AOS files?
Regards,
scholbert

yes it would be great if we could find one, maybe we could find a way to get inside and change some things

scholbert said:
...
Most of them are easy to find other's are not
Anyway, saves your time i guess.
BTW, is there any tool to unpack gen8 AOS files?
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as i know we can't extract aos files since they are encrrypted and we don't have they proper KEY - its saved inside the device somewhere
But good luck with going on! Rly sounds interesting who knows what it's good for in future

good news - check out:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1214674
seems we got a way to extract soon

..... uuuh great!!!
FrEcP said:
good news - check out:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1214674
seems we got a way to extract soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yupp, that's awesome. I just joined that thread.
In the meantime i disassembled my device again, because i want to spent some more time on research.
I found out some more details about the chips and the design in general.
The A101 seems a pretty neat device for extensive hacking, because archos did a good job and made a very clear design.
I started to prepare a pin map by looking at the kernel sources again.
Maybe i'll be able to find some other useful testpoints on the mainboard (e.g. UART2)
As you might know, the touchscreen is connected to USB using OHCI mode.
To attach it to the OMAP ports they also used a chip from Ti.
See this datasheet for more information:
http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tusb2551a.html
If i'll find some time i'll try to make kind of a floor plan from the mainboard and post some pics as well.
P.S.: If someone knows the manufaturer of the speaker drivers, please tell me! The parts are marked as 8JAM892 and are located near the soldering points for the speaker.
Keep on hackin'
scholbert

What I would like to find out is what component it is that dies when the USB port fails (and it stops sleeping as well). Maybe it's replaceable (if you can do SMD soldering).

pbarrett said:
What I would like to find out is what component it is that dies when the USB port fails (and it stops sleeping as well). Maybe it's replaceable (if you can do SMD soldering).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mmmh... without being affected by this issue it's hard to tell.
If the port dies, there could be many reasons of course.
Maybe the 5V power supply for Vbus is dying on these devices, due to "over-current" issue. I have not identified that part right now.
The signal lines itself usually won't be harmed... apart from injecting ESD pulses right to the connector.
The USB host port is directly connected to data lines of the USB PHY inside TPS65921 (Power Management chip).
OMAP3630 itself uses ULPI mode to connect to this part.
That's all i could say for now.
Regards,
scholbert

FrEcP said:
good news - check out:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1214674
seems we got a way to extract soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If we can't extract those AOS files - how are custom ROM builders such as $auron getting their hands on the upper layer of the firmware? I know I am not expressing myself technically correct, but what I understand is that for instance $auron's UrukDroid is a custom Linux kernel etc. with on top of it the modules, GUI etc of the official Archos packages...

you don't need to extract the aos file to get the filesystem of the archos android. you simply have to root your device or just install angstrom (which comes with SDE) and then you can copy the squashfs file to your computer so you can extract whatever you need. it's not encrypted but signed, you only have to skip the first 256 bytes (if I remember correctly) of the file to get a valid squashfs image.

I think I went insane

After seeing a video where you can control a parrot AR.Drone 2.0 with the shield I started thinking up ways to control a real car with it.
Probably wont attempt this but I like the idea.

chevyowner said:
After seeing a video where you can control a parrot AR.Drone 2.0 with the shield I started thinking up ways to control a real car with it.
Probably wont attempt this but I like the idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
main problem i see is when shield's battery runs out.
and i wouldn't want to try it until its out beta, otherwise it might lose wifi connection lol

glitchhawk said:
main problem i see is when shield's battery runs out.
and i wouldn't want to try it until its out beta, otherwise it might lose wifi connection lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
most cars have a 12V socket in the cabin somewhere.....
Otherwise, this is doable.
Dependant on the age of the car and its level of security (engine electronics wise) you could either tap into the engine management units, braking and power steering (power steering alone can actually steer the car with no user input, IF the system allows it or can be modified to be controlled externally in that way, same goes for many other areas of the car) or take a direct hardware approach. Some actuators bolted to the pedals and steering wheel could easily be controlled with an arduino which can then pair via bluetooth, wifi or USB to the shield (USB would be cheapest but would prevent charging from the car lighter socket and of course mean you would have to sit in the car and might aswell drive anyway).
Cars controlled via other means have been done frequently anyway. Your only changing where the input comes from. Your idea isn't really that insane, but I wouldnt want to try it.
As for loss of power/signal. You would require some sort of "computer" aboard the car anyway. Even if its just a simple 8 bit arduino, in fact let us assume that it is an arduino UNO R3 for some reason, even that measly little 8bit CPU can be setup easily enough to detect the loss of communications with the Shield and cut the engine, engage brake etc etc.

I have a either a pandaboard es or a rasperry pi model b I can use. I am not planning on being in the car I am planning on mounting a camera about where the drivers head would be and streaming the video form that to the shield.
As for the car I am think about using a gutted 97 camaro for that, and adding a carburated 350 and some automatic trans. the most advanced computer on the car will the one to radio control it.
As far as usb power is needed there are 5 volt dc-dc regulators for cars that supply 1+ amps.
edit
Yes I know I would need to avoid running myself over.

Either one would be adequate.
I'm not a car wizard so couldnt say whether or not that camaro could have its systems directly tapped into by the pi/panda but either one could control actuators mechanically connected to the steering wheel and pedals.
As for the auto transmission, I despise the very idea of an automatic transmission and have never set in the drivers seat of an automatic vehicle let alone driven one (unless you count a 50cc scooter with a CVT). But in the case of a small computer controlling the car, probably a good idea to reduce the amount of things it has to do.
I have a twin USB adaptor in my car, max 2A shared between both sockets although that does appear to mean (with my non scientific tests as I dont own a multimeter, really need to get one actually) that with only 1 port active it can supply 2A to that port. I think it may just be a straight 12v>5v @2A converter with 2 USB's in parallel.
There are plenty of linear actuators available, for the steering a windscreen wiper motor from a truck, a pulley and some sort of feedback mechanism would be possible.
Would be a cool project, if somewhat dangerous if you don't know what your doing But get online, its been done.

SixSixSevenSeven said:
I'm not a car wizard so couldnt say whether or not that camaro could have its systems directly tapped into by the pi/panda but either one could control actuators mechanically connected to the steering wheel and pedals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the car currently has no interior at all
no engine
no transmission
no hood
no side windows
no steering colum
no pedals
it maybe missing some brake parts.
it is gutted.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
As for the auto transmission, I despise the very idea of an automatic transmission and have never set in the drivers seat of an automatic vehicle let alone driven one (unless you count a 50cc scooter with a CVT). But in the case of a small computer controlling the car, probably a good idea to reduce the amount of things it has to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car had a manual trans but it is gone now.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
I have a twin USB adaptor in my car, max 2A shared between both sockets although that does appear to mean (with my non scientific tests as I dont own a multimeter, really need to get one actually) that with only 1 port active it can supply 2A to that port. I think it may just be a straight 12v>5v @2A converter with 2 USB's in parallel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
5v 10a this is more of what i am thinking.
http://www.miniinthebox.com/dc-24v-...own-regulator-car-led-power-buck_p394573.html

Guys who might be able to help you best are probably over at letsmakerobots.com
I am a regular on there although only with 1 submission, 2nd on its way.
I'm no guru and with a project with a potential for some danger I think its probably best to not take anything I say as gospel, other than that it is possible and that the raspberry pi can probably do it (I have already used the pi for running 2 motors with speed control, a servo and ultrasound module with no issues, python plus RPIO).

should i make this
or this
then?

Home Automation [Ard vs Rasp vs IOIO]

Hello,
I would like to hear some opinions about my personal want-sth-to-do project. I want to use NFC to open my house doors, including the front door, garage and bedrooms door. In addition, I want to be able to control my air-conditioning system, TV and audio system. I want to integrate some sort of IP/CCTV cameras into my personal system. Just to improve the system, I will develop a Android App to control it via an API.
So, to make this project possible, come to my mind three ways:
1. [Arduino]
- Using the Arduino and its shields to develop the entire system. It will take a while and be hard in some points such as IPCAM recording.
2. [RaspberryPi + Arduino]
- Using the RaspberryPi connected to some Arduino shields using the GertDuino (GPIO expansion boards that make RaspberryPi compatible with Arduino Shields).
- This options seems to be the best option for now, but I dont know if RaspberryPi is able to handle the entire system.
3. [IOIO-OTG]
- IOIO-OTG is a board that make any android device as the heart of the system, making you just program in Java and control the GPIO and UART.
- The benefit is that I can develop it using some Android Stick, however, I need to search about available shields for it.
In addition, I need to think how to separate the core of the system from the sensors such as nfc readers. I do not think that wiring over the entire house is the best way... but I didn't found any wireless sensors...
Someone want to give some opinion? I will update the thread with the sensors I'm looking around and so...

I'd go the arduino (maybe more than one) + raspberry-pi (maybe more than one) way.
the ioio seems to be some µc that runs a firmware that connects to android and provides all i/o pins to android... so nothing you couldn't do yourself with an arduino or something similar.
I'd start with the devices you want to connect. Air conditioning might be controlled using Infrared emitters - would that work?
NFC Readers can be built from an arduino AFAIK, but you'll need some sort of field bus or wireless connection between all the parts...

SkzBR said:
Hello,
I would like to hear some opinions about my personal want-sth-to-do project. I want to use NFC to open my house doors, including the front door, garage and bedrooms door. In addition, I want to be able to control my air-conditioning system, TV and audio system. I want to integrate some sort of IP/CCTV cameras into my personal system. Just to improve the system, I will develop a Android App to control it via an API.
So, to make this project possible, come to my mind three ways:
1. [Arduino]
- Using the Arduino and its shields to develop the entire system. It will take a while and be hard in some points such as IPCAM recording.
2. [RaspberryPi + Arduino]
- Using the RaspberryPi connected to some Arduino shields using the GertDuino (GPIO expansion boards that make RaspberryPi compatible with Arduino Shields).
- This options seems to be the best option for now, but I dont know if RaspberryPi is able to handle the entire system.
3. [IOIO-OTG]
- IOIO-OTG is a board that make any android device as the heart of the system, making you just program in Java and control the GPIO and UART.
- The benefit is that I can develop it using some Android Stick, however, I need to search about available shields for it.
In addition, I need to think how to separate the core of the system from the sensors such as nfc readers. I do not think that wiring over the entire house is the best way... but I didn't found any wireless sensors...
Someone want to give some opinion? I will update the thread with the sensors I'm looking around and so...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find your ambition high. But as someone running an Insteon Smart Home with an ISY994i, I can't help but feel you are trying to make a fairly cost effective and secure option more expensive and less secure. Mobilinc integrates with tasker, so you could set it up to unlock doors and stuff pretty easy with NFC.
Best of luck with your search.

me likes

DThought said:
I'd go the arduino (maybe more than one) + raspberry-pi (maybe more than one) way.
the ioio seems to be some µc that runs a firmware that connects to android and provides all i/o pins to android... so nothing you couldn't do yourself with an arduino or something similar.
I'd start with the devices you want to connect. Air conditioning might be controlled using Infrared emitters - would that work?
NFC Readers can be built from an arduino AFAIK, but you'll need some sort of field bus or wireless connection between all the parts...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with DThought. Including a Raspberry Pi would allow some pretty intense processing power.
If you want to limit the amount of wiring you do, you could actually use a USB wifi dongle on the Raspberry Pi. You could then make some simple protoboards/PCBs with an Arduino with a wireless shield for each thing you want to control. This would likely be a more expensive solution than plain wiring but it would allow a lot of flexibility. Especially if you had each of the Arduino clients very similar so that they are interchangeable.
You could also try using Xbee Arduino wireless shields in case you don't want to use regular wifi.
This sounds like a very good project. I hope it works out for you. :laugh:

Spare GPIO Pins?

I am looking for a tablet that I can hack for some home control applications. In particular this device looks like a good candidate as it is about the same cost as a WiFi thermostat and far more capable.
So 2 basic questions... 1: Are there any underutilized GPIO pins that were broken out of the CPU BGA that I can access with a fine tipped solering iron? This is commonly done so that in circuit board tests can validate that there are no solder bridges.
2. Does anyone have a I2C map to know which addresses are utilized, and as an extension to this, know how to make requests on that I2C buss.
I am sorry I know these are very broad questions. I am looking to turn this into a total home control panel including thermostat. So basically for this task I am trying to get GPIO (Preferably 3.3 or 5V) that I can use for some fets to control HVAC, and some I2C lines that I can use to dead-bug in humidity, temp, pressure, ambient light sensors, and IR motion sensor.
I will post a writeup complete with wiring and code if this works out.

P,
neat question, how do i go about getting i2c map? are you working with t53x t33x or t23x ?
hardware hacking would probably be a better section for this, or stack exchange though.
can that be found in kernel source? drivers/i2c/busses/i2c-qup.c or the like?
m