Database Users

Mic Problems

Hi Everybody,
My Magician recently developed an annoying problem and I wonder if anyone had this already:
The internal Mic occasionally goes to a very low sensitivity, i.e., when talking on the phone I have to scream so that the other person can hear me. This is also valid when recording a voicememo - on the playback I hear mostly static with a faint voice in the background.
Next, when using the headset, the voicememo records Ok but when talking on the phone, the other guy ears mostly the electromagnetic noise of the GSM (a loud "RRRRRRRRRRR").
I have noticed that this effect of the headset is started when the battery voltage goes below 3.4V and, as i connect the charger, the effect disapears.
I cannot relate the effects on the internal mic with the battery charge though; it seems to be more random....
It definitely is Hardware...but could it be solved maybe with a new battery?!
Any hunches?
Thanxs!

that is actually aproblem faced by all magician users. mine too worked just fine for firts 6 months then this annoying problem arose.
others could barely hear me.
i tried every sort of registry tweak, cleaned the mic and other thing but still nothing fruitful happened.
one fine day in an attempt to fx the internal mic myself i broke it (there is hardly any service backup for o2 devices here in New Delhi)
since then either i don't use it or use it with a bluetooth handsfree. no problems with bluetooth handsfree.

Yep, That´s right: No problem with the Bluetooth, but is just annoying to have to worry about carrying the BT device all the time and being always worried about its battery state - not to mention that I already lost one...
My guess is that the Analog-to-Digital Mic Chip is failing, or some part of the Mic circuit before that, or even the power suply to the said Chip....
That's just a lot of guessed troubleshooting to do without the knowledge of the elecronic circuit itself.
BTW, I just read your post about the mic problem - Did you have the problem as well with the wired headphones?
Thanks.

phantom201 said:
Yep, That´s right: No problem with the Bluetooth, but is just annoying to have to worry about carrying the BT device all the time and being always worried about its battery state - not to mention that I already lost one...
My guess is that the Analog-to-Digital Mic Chip is failing, or some part of the Mic circuit before that, or even the power suply to the said Chip....
That's just a lot of guessed troubleshooting to do without the knowledge of the elecronic circuit itself.
BTW, I just read your post about the mic problem - Did you have the problem as well with the wired headphones?
Thanks.
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Click to collapse
no! i don't face any problem with bundled earphones or even nokia stereo earphones or a bt handsfree even if i talk from a distance.
problem is only with internal mic.
i would suggest not to try anything yourself on the board. u may ruin ur device like me.
and yes, its annoying to carry tha bt set all the time. thats why i seldom use this devica anymore...i use it only as a mp3 player paired with sony mdr-e808 earphones and equalizer app. the sound is very crisp and punchy.

phantom201 said:
Yep, That´s right: No problem with the Bluetooth, but is just annoying to have to worry about carrying the BT device all the time and being always worried about its battery state - not to mention that I already lost one...
My guess is that the Analog-to-Digital Mic Chip is failing, or some part of the Mic circuit before that, or even the power suply to the said Chip....
That's just a lot of guessed troubleshooting to do without the knowledge of the elecronic circuit itself.
BTW, I just read your post about the mic problem - Did you have the problem as well with the wired headphones?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok whose ready for a big surprise?
you're very right! its a hardware fault
i have 100% jumper solution
call +92-300-3812680 if you know a bit of soldering

fsl13 said:
ok whose ready for a big surprise?
you're very right! its a hardware fault
i have 100% jumper solution
call +92-300-3812680 if you know a bit of soldering
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
come on buddy! if you explain it here using images, u'll help so many users having the same problem.
pls consider.
we all need your help at he moment.

Mic Prob
mariner_heart said:
come on buddy! if you explain it here using images, u'll help so many users having the same problem.
pls consider.
we all need your help at he moment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Faisal is very right buddy......it is purely jumper problem. I attached a snap of my Cell for you.......See the arrow... It is mic and we have to put the black color jumper on it.... Actually what happen with us.... we don't pay much importance to that jumper... there is a tiny whole on that jumper, put that whole on the head of mic so that our voice waves travel inside the jumper and go into mic.
It is my own experience that I put wrong side of jumper on mic and got panic three times . Thanks Faisal.....

ali786 said:
Faisal is very right buddy......it is purely jumper problem. I attached a snap of my Cell for you.......See the arrow... It is mic and we have to put the black color jumper on it.... Actually what happen with us.... we don't pay much importance to that jumper... there is a tiny whole on that jumper, put that whole on the head of mic so that our voice waves travel inside the jumper and go into mic.
It is my own experience that I put wrong side of jumper on mic and got panic three times . Thanks Faisal.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DUH!
nooooooooooo!
i meant a pure jumper solution silly!...
the jumper solution is a quoted wire or in combination solded n jumped from the main sources or the parts in between to make a proper current flow in case of any resistance in between, loose or broken connection.
unfortunately the solution i was supposed to provide was scheduled that night is delayed due to some very sudden technical reasons. And for this i really apologize.
ill try to be as prompt as i can but the time cannot be defined so please forgive me for bringing hope and than delaying it. i know exactly how it feels but hey... patience can be more fruitful
Be Good! Be Well!

Mic Problem
fsl13 said:
DUH!
nooooooooooo!
i meant a pure jumper solution silly!...
the jumper solution is a quoted wire or in combination solded n jumped from the main sources or the parts in between to make a proper current flow in case of any resistance in between, loose or broken connection.
unfortunately the solution i was supposed to provide was scheduled that night is delayed due to some very sudden technical reasons. And for this i really apologize.
ill try to be as prompt as i can but the time cannot be defined so please forgive me for bringing hope and than delaying it. i know exactly how it feels but hey... patience can be more fruitful
Be Good! Be Well!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are right Faisal......... but I told everything which I demonstrated...... And I solved the problem.... It can be possible that other people also did the same mistake which I did.... They can check their mic cover, as long as you can’t provide them any solution. Right??

For the main problem of the buzz noise when calling: I had it too. And it became gradually louder, more louder. And then (it became REALLY insopportable: when in call even the main speaker emitted that noise, and considerably loud) my phone resetted. It decided to not woken up unless I took the Sim out, and that was the end of my phone (the "phone" part: I used it as an expensive mp3 for quite a while). The noise was so loud that also attempting to connect to the carrier caused soft reset. Searching around I discovered that noise to be related to RF leakage.. you have been warned folks

Shift Audio, how is yours?

I don't know if it's just my Shift but the speakers are wired out of phase!
What I mean is, one side is wired +ve to negative giving an infuriating spatial effect and effectively cancelling out all the bass to mid audio (one is suckin while T'other is a pushin).
You can test this by ensuring all effects are turned off in Realtek Audio Manager and then adjust the volume balance to on side or the other and you will notice it sounds clearer with only one speaker running.
Display came off as per the disassembly sticky, changed connection on one and it sounds twice as good now, true stereo!
Its a difficult job so not advised for the faint hearted!

FYI
If you look at the two loudspeaker daughterboards, they lay in opposition, one facing up and one facing down.
The cables appear to be wired correctly but I'm wondering if some clever pcb designer thought to reverse the connections on one because of this layout.
Or maybe I just have one speaker miswired internally?
Who knows?
Carefully scrape away the potting compound over the connections of one of the speakers and using a small soldering iron, swap them over. It is too difficult to attempt to swap the connector side.
I will tell you one thing, when I select Loudness Equalisation under Sound Effects in Realtek Audio Manager, I can really use this for online radio and Slingplayer now!!

yes, i've known of this problem since i've first opened up my shift. It appears that all shift's sound like this and that the speakers are out of phase. It's a hardware designer fault. One soldering tool and some little practice should do the trick here. Simply reverse the polarity to one speaker.

facdemol said:
yes, i've known of this problem since i've first opened up my shift.
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Click to collapse
OH?
facdemol said:
It appears that all shift's sound like this and that the speakers are out of phase. It's a hardware designer fault.
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Click to collapse
Not had others to test it on myself..
facdemol said:
One soldering tool and some little practice should do the trick here. Simply reverse the polarity to one speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there an echo in here??
BTW, thanks for the disassembly images.
Oh well, a problem shared is a... 'nother screw up by HTC!
or maybe this is a 'design feature' ?

Convert headphones to single earpiece and mic

I have seen people who have rewired standard headphones at the plug (using the existing plug and not replacing it), so that one ear is a speaker and the other a mic for use on their cell phones. 2 plus hours of google-fooing have only left me scratching my head!

[email protected] said:
I have seen people who have rewired standard headphones at the plug (using the existing plug and not replacing it), so that one ear is a speaker and the other a mic for use on their cell phones. 2 plus hours of google-fooing have only left me scratching my head!
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Click to collapse
I don't think that's possible dude, they might have added additional hardware to that setup (like a mic itself).
Nice try! LOL.

Well, you probably could do that with a 4 pole plug.
The only problem is that an earpiece makes a lousy microphone.

Andvoider said:
I don't think that's possible dude, they might have added additional hardware to that setup (like a mic itself).
Nice try! LOL.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are right! An inline mic is added but it used a 3 pole plug.. Still looking to see how to wire it up

joying phone bluetooth only on one speaker

Called joying and they told me the audio for the phone bluetooth connection only will come out of the front left speaker on all their units, can anyone confirm this? In my vw the sound while on a phone call comes out of all the speakers. Any car i have ever been in the sound comes out all speakers while on a call, not sure why on these it only comes out one channel if its true.
Thanks to anyone to confirm this.

On mine it comes out the passenger side. I know my Kenwood would allow me to select. I've gotten used to it so it's really no big deal
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

madcowintucson said:
Called joying and they told me the audio for the phone bluetooth connection only will come out of the front left speaker on all their units, can anyone confirm this? In my vw the sound while on a phone call comes out of all the speakers. Any car i have ever been in the sound comes out all speakers while on a call, not sure why on these it only comes out one channel if its true.
Thanks to anyone to confirm this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup mine does the same thing and it really sounds bad. It comes out of the passenger side and middle dash speaker, but mostly just the tweeters....At highway speed I cant hear half the call.....I am hoping to find a way around this.

Oh wow OK. I had an idea u had a spare Bluetooth speaker laying around and I can use that in the car but it basically defeats controlling the audio from the dash. This blows my mind how bad the audio is in these. Now is that speaker out or rca out on yours?

madcowintucson said:
Oh wow OK. I had an idea u had a spare Bluetooth speaker laying around and I can use that in the car but it basically defeats controlling the audio from the dash. This blows my mind how bad the audio is in these. Now is that speaker out or rca out on yours?
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Click to collapse
No, my current set up is still using the factory wiring harness. I havent had a chance to get my amps and trunk all set up for the RCA outs yet. I am hoping someone smarter than me can figure out a way to change the phone audio output settings.....

I am pretty sure it could be done with alsa mixer but I have no clue how to use it to route audio in Android it's very complicated and zero instructions.

madcowintucson said:
I am pretty sure it could be done with alsa mixer but I have no clue how to use it to route audio in Android it's very complicated and zero instructions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It really is a shame. The phone app is just sad all the way around on this unit. Not having a Favorites list is a another big downer.....and I dont know if yours does it at all, but when I am on a phone call I cannot access anything until the call is ended. Everything gets grayed out even when I minimize the call option on the bottom of the screen....I am pretty sure that is just a bug in the software that will get fixed in an update

I don't have a unit yet myself but at this rate it may be only good for controlling the phone but for that matter I can get a separate controller for that.

On my Joying it does this as well, all of the audio comes out of the front passenger speaker. However it doesn't sound bad. It gets very loud, and I can make and receive phone calls fine. The sound is mono as opposed to stereo, and that does sound weird, but I have no issue hearing calls.
Can people with a non-Joying unit chime in? does it do the same one speaker thing? or is that Joying specific?

In the old days this was common practice so as the speakers didn't cause feedback with the microphone which was most commonly mounted atop the drivers pillar. So the opposite speaker was used for audio

I have a Funrover head unit since almost a week and I have the same issue, sound is coming only from front speakers which make the call over bluetooth just a hell for me.
I barely can hear the caller specially while driving
this is a nightmare !!!

Sofia units use both front speakers.
All PX5, no matter Joying or other units, only use one front speaker

surfer63 said:
Sofia units use both front speakers.
All PX5, no matter Joying or other units, only use one front speaker
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Ok thanks, but that being said, is there a way to remediate to this ?

namek09 said:
Ok thanks, but that being said, is there a way to remediate to this ?
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Click to collapse
I don't know. It is already going back to the PX3 models. Loads of topics written about it in the mtcb/d forums. It is best to search there.
phone audio is mono anyway, so I guess they just route it to one of the boxes.

Mekede Headunit Microphone Quality

Folks, I'm at my wits end and hope someone here can help. I purchased a Mekede M300 Android head unit (I believe this is a rebranded Joying unit) over a month ago for my wife's Honda HR-V 2017. Installation was fairly straightforward and any minor issues that came up were able to be resolved messaging the seller on Aliexpress.
There is one major issue that remains which is a dealbreaker - call quality is absolutely horrendous while driving and/or with the air conditioner on.
I've tried:
Testing on multiple devices
Testing with and without an external 3.5mm microphone installed (unit has a crappy internal one)
Factory resetting
Adjusting "sound mix scale" and "power conditioning" values in unit settings with no noticeable improvement
What I believe is happening is some processing/filtering is being done on the mixed audio input from internal mic (and the external mic, if plugged in). AC or road noise drowns out my voice and I cannot be heard well on the other end. No idea how to avoid this...
Does anyone have any suggestions or solutions? Attaching system info if it helps identify the device.

This is a major issue with all of these Chinese head units. They do not use noise-cancelling microphones.
As soon as "ambient noise" like airco, ventilation, tyre noise, wind noise, engine noise, etc. becomes too loud, you can forget it.
Even a 10 euros/dollars investment in a cheap noise cancelling internal mic (so two cheap mics instead of one cheap mic) would already be a great difference.
Even the cheap units are so powerfull that simply using two very cheap mics and some algorithm to separate the "general constant" noise from the "differentiating" signal (voice) would make a huge difference.
Maybe you could try with a USB headset to see if you can use a USB microphone for a phone call. If it works you might purchase a USB-cancelling microphone. I must admit I never tried that as I don't do phone calls in my car.

surfer63 said:
This is a major issue with all of these Chinese head units. They do not use noise-cancelling microphones.
As soon as "ambient noise" like airco, ventilation, tyre noise, wind noise, engine noise, etc. becomes too loud, you can forget it.
Even a 10 euros/dollars investment in a cheap noise cancelling internal mic (so two cheap mics instead of one cheap mic) would already be a great difference.
Even the cheap units are so powerfull that simply using two very cheap mics and some algorithm to separate the "general constant" noise from the "differentiating" signal (voice) would make a huge difference.
Maybe you could try with a USB headset to see if you can use a USB microphone for a phone call. If it works you might purchase a USB-cancelling microphone. I must admit I never tried that as I don't do phone calls in my car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. Any recommendations for a replacement mic? I already tried purchasing a rather cheap one on Amazon that didn't make a noticeable difference.

I tested hypercardioid microphone and results were pretty good, but it has to be mounted near your head. Problem I have is that internal microphone, the one on the display, is still on. I'm thinking of de-soldering it as it's not too difficult to access.

firstbob said:
I tested hypercardioid microphone and results were pretty good, but it has to be mounted near your head. Problem I have is that internal microphone, the one on the display, is still on. I'm thinking of de-soldering it as it's not too difficult to access.
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Click to collapse
I read about this and didn't want to have to do it if possible. Was call quality acceptable with the hypercardioid microphone? Can you provide a link?

fusionice said:
I read about this and didn't want to have to do it if possible. Was call quality acceptable with the hypercardioid microphone? Can you provide a link?
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Click to collapse
It's like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002433011687.html I specifically was looking for cardioid microphone that does not pickup lower frequencies, this one starts at 50Hz.
It could be a bit louder ( gain was set to medium ) so it's probably not perfect, but results from directional pickup were good.

firstbob said:
It's like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002433011687.html I specifically was looking for cardioid microphone that does not pickup lower frequencies, this one starts at 50Hz.
It could be a bit louder ( gain was set to medium ) so it's probably not perfect, but results from directional pickup were good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll look into that one.
When you say that you set the gain to medium, is that some setting on the headunit? If it is, I could not find a similar setting on my unit.
@surfer63 I've seen one of your posts breaking down different values in the "config.txt" file. Could mine be a culprit? It is set to "persist.btmic.gain=8"

fusionice said:
Thanks, I'll look into that one.
When you say that you set the gain to medium, is that some setting on the headunit? If it is, I could not find a similar setting on my unit.
@surfer63 I've seen one of your posts breaking down different values in the "config.txt" file. Could mine be a culprit? It is set to "persist.btmic.gain=8"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Browsing through engineering menus I saw the mic gain settings. I found it after testing so I did not play with it.

fusionice said:
@surfer63 I've seen one of your posts breaking down different values in the "config.txt" file. Could mine be a culprit? It is set to "persist.btmic.gain=8"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This one is unknown to me. Like mentioned: I don't do phonecalls in the car and never even looked at this one. I really don't know.

On my head unit, a TEyes FYT sc9853i unit, it did not have an external mic connector. I modified the harness so that my stock car microphone could be used. I soldered a connector directly to the internal mic location and removed the internal mic. It was located on the side panel where the touch controls are located. It is easily accessible from behind through a separate removable cover panel. Not sure if yours is the same. The stock microphone is located just above the drivers sun visor. I have a North American Kia Sorento 2012 SX.

mastrv said:
On my head unit, a TEyes FYT sc9853i unit, it did not have an external mic connector. I modified the harness so that my stock car microphone could be used. I soldered a connector directly to the internal mic location and removed the internal mic. It was located on the side panel where the touch controls are located. It is easily accessible from behind through a separate removable cover panel. Not sure if yours is the same. The stock microphone is located just above the drivers sun visor. I have a North American Kia Sorento 2012 SX.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it's likely that all 9" (and probably 10.1") HU displays with capacitive buttons on a side are the same. I have TS10, relatively new unit, and date on the that side board is 2019.

mastrv said:
On my head unit, a TEyes FYT sc9853i unit, it did not have an external mic connector. I modified the harness so that my stock car microphone could be used. I soldered a connector directly to the internal mic location and removed the internal mic. It was located on the side panel where the touch controls are located. It is easily accessible from behind through a separate removable cover panel. Not sure if yours is the same. The stock microphone is located just above the drivers sun visor. I have a North American Kia Sorento 2012 SX.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes mine looks like this as well. How difficult was your modification? Did you need to build a custom harness/connector to keep the OEM mic? Seems pretty involved, but I'd give it a try if I just needed to solder a readily available part.

If you have access to 4pda, the hardware forum has good write-ups on microphone changes and other hardware modifications. I use Google Translate for 4pda and it works well enough. This has info for an external mic:
Головные устройства TEYES - Аппаратная модификация, автозвук, брак и ремонт - 4PDA
Головные устройства TEYES - Аппаратная модификация, автозвук, брак и ремонт, [Головное устройство][Автомагнитола][Android]
4pda.to
I needed an external module for my head unit to work with the OEM amplifier. The module harness came with a connector for the OEM mic. It plugged directly into the microphone connector I added to the head unit.
It's a little involved, but not difficult. My soldering skills are very limited. Made a huge difference in the call quality.

For those of you who run across this thread (as I did) trying to resolve the mic / bluetooth call quality issue, I thought this might help.
I desoldered the built-in mic and tried various high quality aftermarket microphones, none of which solved the issue. Then, as a last-ditch, 'why not?' effort, i plugged in the cheap mic that shipped with the head unit. Surprisingly, this works well! So, for all of you having the call quality problem, disable your internal mic and use the mic that came in the box with your Mekede/Navifly unit; it just might solve the problem.
I don't know what's really going on, but I have a theory that higher quality, more sensitive mics actually reduce call quality on these units as they try to filter out all the extra background noise and overcompensate... but the included external mic is less sensitive and is what they test with, so that's what they tune the unit for.
Anyway, I hope this helps somebody.

Trayal said:
For those of you who run across this thread (as I did) trying to resolve the mic / bluetooth call quality issue, I thought this might help.
I desoldered the built-in mic and tried various high quality aftermarket microphones, none of which solved the issue. Then, as a last-ditch, 'why not?' effort, i plugged in the cheap mic that shipped with the head unit. Surprisingly, this works well! So, for all of you having the call quality problem, disable your internal mic and use the mic that came in the box with your Mekede/Navifly unit; it just might solve the problem.
I don't know what's really going on, but I have a theory that higher quality, more sensitive mics actually reduce call quality on these units as they try to filter out all the extra background noise and overcompensate... but the included external mic is less sensitive and is what they test with, so that's what they tune the unit for.
Anyway, I hope this helps somebody.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess you did not check the impedance of the microphones you've tried did you? A microphone can only work well if it's impedance (ac resistance) matches the input impedance of the microphone preamp. That's also the reason why the internal and external microphone never perform well in parallel installation. That's something that the Chinese manufacturer don't understand it seems...

Another head unit but I'm sure not too different to illustrate disconnecting the internal mic:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...-usage-reference-thread.4236281/post-87970225

blue_one said:
I guess you did not check the impedance of the microphones you've tried did you? A microphone can only work well if it's impedance (ac resistance) matches the input impedance of the microphone preamp. That's also the reason why the internal and external microphone never perform well in parallel installation. That's something that the Chinese manufacturer don't understand it seems...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apologies for missing this until now. I unfortunately did not measure the various mics' impedance. I will note, though, that while the one I noted (that shipped with the head unit) did work better than anything else I tried at that time, due to a rather harsh sound at freeway speed, the Mrs. wanted me to keep searching. I tried one more aftermarket mic that ended up working even better. Here it is on amazon:
FingerLakes 3.5mm Microphone
The stats on the page list the following:
Sensitivity: -30dB+/-2dB
Frequency Range: 50Hz-20KHz
Output Impedance: ≤2.2 kΩ
SNR: >58dB
I don't know how accurate the above specs are, but it's a really inexpensive mic so if anybody has the proper equipment and wants to measure impedance and post it here for posterity, this is an inexpensive unit that is working well on my Mekede UIS7862 unit.

Did you ever get this resolved? I have the exact same issue. Is there an adapter that I could purchase to connect my OEM microphone?

Kmaso1 said:
Did you ever get this resolved? I have the exact same issue. Is there an adapter that I could purchase to connect my OEM microphone?
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That depends...
You need to check how your car exposes the mic connection. If it's part of the main EOM connector you have to add additional wires and solder a 3.5 mono plug on them.
If your car provides the mic via a separate plug there may be adapters available.

I have a separate plug for external mic. Here is a photo of the rear of the unit. The mic is poor with and without the external one plugged in