Database Users

Android head unit microphone issues

These systems are well known for their mic troubles and I have taken this up with the manufacturer. There is a post that I have seen somewhere in this forum that details a hardware fix. From what I have gathered, anyone brave enough to attempt and has accomplished this fix has not reported any issues; great for the electricians out there.
I do work in the computer industry, but identifying electrical components and soldering is not something I am too confident with. The manufacturer did however, send me an updated update.img file in response to my mic issues. I've installed this and it made some improvement, but nothing so significant that I have actually started using the mic. It also has a new wallpaper and noticed that the default apps have been updated, but not sure how?
Anyway, I've just had a bright idea! I've tried improving the mic by using various bluetooth mics, various external mics that plugin into the mic jack, using the internal mic and manufacturer software update. All make very little difference, but has anyone actually tried using a USB mic?
I don't have one to hand and don't really want to buy one if this doesn't solve the issue. Would drivers/android recognising the usb device be an issue? Hoping someone has had a go at trying this out or can try it out if thay have a usb mic?

Shame no one replied on this one. Did you end up trying a USB mic solution and did it work out for you?

Yeah... Haven't tried it yet as don't want to buy one if it doesn't work. Your reply to this thread would have bumped it back to the top so may still get a response Im hoping

According to this link http://liliputing.com/2012/09/using-skype-on-an-mk802-android-4-0-mini-pc.html, a microsoft lifecam vx-700 with built-in microphone was found to be working on some android devices. The question is whether our firmware would work too. And whether there would be a way to simply disable the built-in input and only route the external usb sound in. It all feels like its probably too much to ask....

OK so I tried a cheap usb webcam with built in microphone to see if it would make a difference. The webcam seems to be working fine for video, was instantly recognized by android and showed video, but sound is still the horrible mess coming from the internal mic. I doubt that a dedicated USB mic would be any different.

Thanks for checking... you saved me some time at least.

Could it be when using an internal mic + external at the same time that can cause this kind of trouble? That is what it seems when i read around forums.

have a look at this, maybe it helps:
http://www.autopumpkin.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=171&start=90

I simply cut the internal red wire to mic and installed external mic again and the problems have disappeared. I have been told there is a slight echo but that may be fixed by changing the BT firmware from default.

I think the mic location on the HU is excellent and we don't really need to route an external mic somewhere else. How about just trying to desoldier the old one and try to locate a high quality one and soldier a new one ?
Fortunately I am lucky and my internal mic works great.

raptor18 said:
I think the mic location on the HU is excellent and we don't really need to route an external mic somewhere else. How about just trying to desoldier the old one and try to locate a high quality one and soldier a new one ?
Fortunately I am lucky and my internal mic works great.
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Lucky you, though to be fair without an external mic my internal worked, just not very well. I have read somewhere that soldering to the internal connections had issues but not sure why, it cant hurt to try can it?

roscored1000 said:
Lucky you, though to be fair without an external mic my internal worked, just not very well. I have read somewhere that soldering to the internal connections had issues but not sure why, it cant hurt to try can it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Shouldn't be a tough solder job.
Just make sure to use a solder sucker to remove old mic and you should be fine.

Guys,
I have the same problem with my android car navigation system.
I have a Note 4 and an android car navigation system in my car (with built in wifi and Bluetooth (BT)). The microphone of the car navigation system has a very low quality, it is almost not working/usable. I would like to pair my phone to the car system in BT but would like to disable the built- in microphone of the android car system and use the note 4's microphone by default and hear the sound of the person who is talking to me on the car speakers.
Is this possible? How? Do I need to use third party apps ?
Many thanks in advance

So frustrating... Anyone have a fix yet?
Android head unit mic barely picking up.
Why have they not fixed this issue?
So frustrating. Got everything all hooked up and straightened out except the daggum mic. I just bought this android head unit (9.0) and the person on the other end of the phone call can't hear me. So I plugged in the external and same. They can barely here me when I am screaming into it.
I have got to get this fixed.
Anyone found a solution yet???

Find out how to get into the engineering menu of your HU, there you can adjust the mic gain. Also have a look at this thread for other ideas.

did you fix it?
---------- Post added at 12:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:03 PM ----------
I improved the level of my mic built-in with th MTK enginerring app. hardware test and changing mic volumen in normal mode, headset mode and loudspeaker mode, but it is not enough when engine is working. I will try to solder and external mic to the pads of mic built-in. I think that it is problem of software filtering because when engine is off, sounds doesn't rattle, the volumen is not to high but the comunication is steady, but when i start the engine, conversation gets cuts. maybe engine sound is interfering with the mic built-in mic. I will update progresions.

8227L YT9216BJ Head Unit
even my above car android unit has mic problem. it does not recognize the voice commands unless spoken very close to the mic, which is not practical
Also, Bluetooth calls are intermittently heard (with Airtel). But when switched to JIO simcard, works fine.
Please can anyone support with a solution on both the issues
[email protected]

In short for helping anyone that has the same problem
I have a Bosion D6 android (android 10 version – 4 gb ram 64 storage, 8-core) head unit on my Ford Focus mk2.
Everything was perfect expect the microphone, even after I installed the external mic that came with it, the sound was poor and my listeners’ complaint that the quality of the conversation was not very good.
Read tons of stuff here and elsewhere so I decided to spend some money (around 20€) and bought a Sony microphone XA-MC10 to replace the Chinese original (since I have read some good reviews and you can find it in your local market also)
The difference was more than noticeable and everyone now listen to me perfect. i test it myslef through the sound recorder app and it seems like going from say 64kbits/s to 146kbits/s or more.

I don't want to open another thread because the problem is similar.
When I connect with iphone carplay, the interlocutor often hears me jerky, I tried both internal microphone and external also cutting the internal one to exclude it but nothing.
Using the application "microphone amplifier" and applying the filters instead it feels perfectly, but obviously every time it should start and set, so very boring.
Tried to use MTK Engineering mode to change the mic volume, but it doesn't solve completely.
Anyone have any ideas to try?
Thank you in advance

Did anyone ever find a solution to sounding really quiet to the person your calling? Cheers

joying phone bluetooth only on one speaker

Called joying and they told me the audio for the phone bluetooth connection only will come out of the front left speaker on all their units, can anyone confirm this? In my vw the sound while on a phone call comes out of all the speakers. Any car i have ever been in the sound comes out all speakers while on a call, not sure why on these it only comes out one channel if its true.
Thanks to anyone to confirm this.

On mine it comes out the passenger side. I know my Kenwood would allow me to select. I've gotten used to it so it's really no big deal
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

madcowintucson said:
Called joying and they told me the audio for the phone bluetooth connection only will come out of the front left speaker on all their units, can anyone confirm this? In my vw the sound while on a phone call comes out of all the speakers. Any car i have ever been in the sound comes out all speakers while on a call, not sure why on these it only comes out one channel if its true.
Thanks to anyone to confirm this.
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Click to collapse
Yup mine does the same thing and it really sounds bad. It comes out of the passenger side and middle dash speaker, but mostly just the tweeters....At highway speed I cant hear half the call.....I am hoping to find a way around this.

Oh wow OK. I had an idea u had a spare Bluetooth speaker laying around and I can use that in the car but it basically defeats controlling the audio from the dash. This blows my mind how bad the audio is in these. Now is that speaker out or rca out on yours?

madcowintucson said:
Oh wow OK. I had an idea u had a spare Bluetooth speaker laying around and I can use that in the car but it basically defeats controlling the audio from the dash. This blows my mind how bad the audio is in these. Now is that speaker out or rca out on yours?
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Click to collapse
No, my current set up is still using the factory wiring harness. I havent had a chance to get my amps and trunk all set up for the RCA outs yet. I am hoping someone smarter than me can figure out a way to change the phone audio output settings.....

I am pretty sure it could be done with alsa mixer but I have no clue how to use it to route audio in Android it's very complicated and zero instructions.

madcowintucson said:
I am pretty sure it could be done with alsa mixer but I have no clue how to use it to route audio in Android it's very complicated and zero instructions.
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Click to collapse
It really is a shame. The phone app is just sad all the way around on this unit. Not having a Favorites list is a another big downer.....and I dont know if yours does it at all, but when I am on a phone call I cannot access anything until the call is ended. Everything gets grayed out even when I minimize the call option on the bottom of the screen....I am pretty sure that is just a bug in the software that will get fixed in an update

I don't have a unit yet myself but at this rate it may be only good for controlling the phone but for that matter I can get a separate controller for that.

On my Joying it does this as well, all of the audio comes out of the front passenger speaker. However it doesn't sound bad. It gets very loud, and I can make and receive phone calls fine. The sound is mono as opposed to stereo, and that does sound weird, but I have no issue hearing calls.
Can people with a non-Joying unit chime in? does it do the same one speaker thing? or is that Joying specific?

In the old days this was common practice so as the speakers didn't cause feedback with the microphone which was most commonly mounted atop the drivers pillar. So the opposite speaker was used for audio

I have a Funrover head unit since almost a week and I have the same issue, sound is coming only from front speakers which make the call over bluetooth just a hell for me.
I barely can hear the caller specially while driving
this is a nightmare !!!

Sofia units use both front speakers.
All PX5, no matter Joying or other units, only use one front speaker

surfer63 said:
Sofia units use both front speakers.
All PX5, no matter Joying or other units, only use one front speaker
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Click to collapse
Ok thanks, but that being said, is there a way to remediate to this ?

namek09 said:
Ok thanks, but that being said, is there a way to remediate to this ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know. It is already going back to the PX3 models. Loads of topics written about it in the mtcb/d forums. It is best to search there.
phone audio is mono anyway, so I guess they just route it to one of the boxes.

Anyone here using the internal microphone on your head unit?

How is the sound quality through the internal mic on your after market head unit? Is it acceptable? Can the person you talk to hear you good enough?
Which unit are you using?

I'm using it without problem, anybody's can heard me.
Enviado desde mi Nexus 5 mediante Tapatalk

Cool, thanks. What unit are you using?
Because i've always thought built in microphones are crap and unusable. Obviously i'm wrong.
Anyone else give their thoughts?

Hi,
my internal mic is absolutely crap, nobody understand a word. My unit is a Naviskauto C0255. Newest andoird from booroonbook installed. I was not able to get the external to work, i posted this already, waiting for help. Is far as i know there is no chance to deactivate the internal mic and as long as it is not deactivated, the external will not work. they do not work together, 100%sure, even if other tell you they do!

That's why i started this thread.
To understand how big this problem is.
Imagine that you buy a head unit for bluetooth calls and it doesn't work nomatter if you use an external mic or not. Absolutely frustrating and the producers don't seem to understand what we want.

raptor18 said:
That's why i started this thread.
To understand how big this problem is.
Imagine that you buy a head unit for bluetooth calls and it doesn't work nomatter if you use an external mic or not. Absolutely frustrating and the producers don't seem to understand what we want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found this thread:
http://www.autopumpkin.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=171&sid=7db8f39bd1e4fbc8faedd1637802d486
The pumpkin is the same as my device. The user called "Jammy" is a stuff member from Naviskauto. As you can read, they have no idea...they sent new external mics to the people but this, of course, doesn't solve the problem. In the end (at page 10) "Jammy" gave up. One user wrote that we have to cut of the red wire of the internal mic band then the external will work. i am not sure if this is the right way...

i only used the internal mic on my Joying for one call, then I hooked up the external mic, and since I got it hooked up, i never felt like tearing open the dash again to try it.
However I was told both sound ok, just that I was louder on the external mic. I would say 75% of the time people say it is fine. However I dont make a lot of phone calls, and I drive a Jeep, which tend to be noisy

Excellent.
Anyone else that can fill in?

Per mtcb thread, the same mic issues exists as almostevery cheap chinese head unit, including the wince units. The solution is to physically and electrically disconnect the internal microphone and connect a quality external microphone. Forget the cheap Chinese external mics and source a local lapel electret microphone. The difference will be night and day! Installation is important too - suggest mounting on steering column or (best) pointing back toward driver near rear view mirror (window acts as a parabolic reflector.) Keep away from sides/side window to minimise road noise.

Mine is fine up until I'm at maybe 70+mph then it's echoey
I've just bought an external that I will fit which will hopefully improve it...I have been able to use it fine for 3/4 months though

Noise Issues - Pumpkin HU

Hello,
I got a very annoying problem with my pumpkin head unit. Theres a noise, like when you place a smartphone close to speaker, which I hear all the time coming out of my car speakers.
Sometimes it's quiet and sometimes I hear that noise.
Is there any way to fix that?
My HeadUnit is (Description from Pumpkin Website):
Pumpkin 7 Inch Quad Core Android 4.4 Car Stereo DVD Player for Opel Vauxhall 2 Din support DAB+ AV Output MirrorLink 3G WiFi OBD2 DVR Steering Wheel Control
I run Malaysk Rom, but had this issues even with the standard ROM.
Would be happy if anybody could help me.
Regards
Ben

bump
No ideas?

Any ideas
I would be happy if someone could help me with my Problem

It's likely noise from the screen. Try turning the screen off and see if it goes away. It won't be easy to fix. Make sure all your grounds are as good as possible and make sure they are as direct to the battery as you can get. Noise like this is from a bad circuit design. It's the difference between an expensive well-engineered board and some POS from China. Yeah, I got one too, the Lollipop unit (self-rooted w/Viper).
If you only get the noise when the car is running it could be noise from your alternator or plug wires. That's harder to fix. You could use one of the crazy capacitors they make for car audio, but if you aren't running a 1000W, they can be overkill. I would try 1000uF cap across the 12V battery supply to ground, as close to the head unit as you can get it. Make sure the cap is rated at least 15V or so (it will see more than 12 from a car!). It will be electrolytic, so make sure you obey polarity. I'll be doing this myself later today.

May be worth a try running a wire from the negative of the battery post to the radio ground...I would just do it quick and easy in the driveway before trying to route it through the car.

Thank you for your support on that...
Unfortunately that sounds not that easy. I thought this might be a common problem with those head units :-/

I have a sound coming thru the speakers as well kinda sounds like a hard drive reading data when its booting up but goes away once its booted & running.
Might try running a better ground see if that helps.

New Car Stereo

I was hoping someone could help.
I need a new 2 Din, Full Android Car Stereo which satisfies the following:
1) Has 4 channels and a subwoofer out
2) The subwoofer out is of normal voltage (ie 4v or above)
3) There is a built in Gain control for the sub on the head unit
4) There is a built in crossover for the speakers and sub so that not too much bass is going to the speakers and not too much mid/treble is going to the sub
5) the above 2 features will be active and work while using 3rd party apps like poweramp etc
All the other stuff like wifi and bluetooth and OBD2 support is assumed as they all seem to do this.
i would appreciate any advice because whenever i email sellers it takes a day to get back to me every time and the answers are always vague and unclear.
many thanks in advance

2-4 I think you're asking too much at this point.. I don't think any of the chinese Android units can meet these requirements at this point. They have SUB output, but no built in crossover which works out of the box. Some units, I believe MTC of sorts, had the hardware but it wasn't hooked up properly, so some people were able to make it work by soldering in some trace wires on the board and moving two resistors. Not something for anyone unless you have good skills in soldering.
For now, I just use an external 3-way active crossover. It works fine. At the moment I'm using the built in amplifier, but will install an amplifier soon as the built in one isn't very powerful, only about 4x15-18W according to the datasheet of the amp IC they used.

Hilari0 said:
2-4 I think you're asking too much at this point.. I don't think any of the chinese Android units can meet these requirements at this point. They have SUB output, but no built in crossover which works out of the box. Some units, I believe MTC of sorts, had the hardware but it wasn't hooked up properly, so some people were able to make it work by soldering in some trace wires on the board and moving two resistors. Not something for anyone unless you have good skills in soldering.
For now, I just use an external 3-way active crossover. It works fine. At the moment I'm using the built in amplifier, but will install an amplifier soon as the built in one isn't very powerful, only about 4x15-18W according to the datasheet of the amp IC they used.
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Click to collapse
Hi mate, thanks for your response.
So what i have at the moment is the head unit below:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CGA5...483542345&sr=sr-1&keywords=android+car+stereo
A fitter came and set up my sub and amp from my old car. The rca goes straight from the sub out of the unit into the amp at the back which powers the sub.
The problem i am having is that when i want to hear the sub i have to turn the bass up - when i turn the bass up too high the speakers crackle as the equaliser is universal.
Someone recommended me a PAC LD-10 low pass line which will increase the voltage to the amp for my sub and give me a knob to control the level....will fitting this be enough to do the job?
can you send me a link to your 3-way cross over?
thanks

I'm not using a special crossover by any means, just a standard crossover which are readily available. Not sure the specific one I use, but it looks pretty much identical to this one but with a different color:
http://www.lazada.com.ph/boschmann-mobile-audio-electronic-crossover-23-way-xm-3a-9196761.html
The PAC LD-10 will increase the line level yes, so you get a good signal over 4V. As far as I know, this is a pure preamplifier (or signal booster if you will), without any sort of crossover. It has separate controls for left/right, so you can adjust balance, but that's about it. You can read all about it here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=264&CategoryID=28
You get them on Amazon/ebay for $18.49 plus shipping.

Hilari0 said:
I'm not using a special crossover by any means, just a standard crossover which are readily available. Not sure the specific one I use, but it looks pretty much identical to this one but with a different color:
http://www.lazada.com.ph/boschmann-mobile-audio-electronic-crossover-23-way-xm-3a-9196761.html
The PAC LD-10 will increase the line level yes, so you get a good signal over 4V. As far as I know, this is a pure preamplifier (or signal booster if you will), without any sort of crossover. It has separate controls for left/right, so you can adjust balance, but that's about it. You can read all about it here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=264&CategoryID=28
You get them on Amazon/ebay for $18.49 plus shipping.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mate.
Does the sub-out on my unit not limit the frequency to say 120 or 150 and below? So hopefully i will just need a crossover for the speakers...?
So if i need a PAC LD-10 for the sub and a crossover for the speakers will my battery be able to cope with powering both of those as well as the Head Unit?

When I hooked up the subwoofer in my car to the SUB output on my head unit, it sounded awful. It seemed to play full range sound without any crossover, and the sound was greatly improved when I installed the crossover. I didn't have an issue with it being too low though, so depending on the way your amplifier and head unit is designed, your results may vary. If you plan on using aftermarket amplifiers for all the speakers, I recommend using an external crossover, either one like I use or the one that is built in on the amplifiers themselves, as many come with that already.

Hilari0 said:
When I hooked up the subwoofer in my car to the SUB output on my head unit, it sounded awful. It seemed to play full range sound without any crossover, and the sound was greatly improved when I installed the crossover. I didn't have an issue with it being too low though, so depending on the way your amplifier and head unit is designed, your results may vary. If you plan on using aftermarket amplifiers for all the speakers, I recommend using an external crossover, either one like I use or the one that is built in on the amplifiers themselves, as many come with that already.
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the amp connected to my sub has a built in filter and gain. The gain is on max but i can only hear the sub properly when i turn the bass up on my equaliser, but it still doesnt thump like it did in my old car. The other issue is that the speakers crackles as soon as you start turning the volume up after that. I dont think i need an amp for the speakers as they can even take the Head Units power as they crackle when i turn it up....unless this is becasue the audio quality is so bad.....jesus i never realised this would be so complicated when i had it fitted.

i forgot to remind you as well - will the normal car battery power these devices and headunit...and i also have my amp in the boot...

Speakers will always perform better with a strong amp vs a weak amp. And a weak amp can make good speakers crackle even if they're far from their max power output, due to the amplifier not being able to handle the load. If you have a car with a proprietary amplifier system which uses weird inputs, it may be a challenge to make it work properly and you might be better served replacing that amplifier with an aftermarket one. Don't throw the stock factory amp away, if you ever want to reinstall the OEM system when you sell it or similar. If not, selling it may give a nice income as some of these go for a premium.
---------- Post added at 01:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------
Oh, and yeah. A standard car battery and alternator should be able to handle a normal sized sound system, even if it's aftermarket. I wouldn't be worried about installing a head unit, a 4x50W amp and a monoblock amp for the subwoofer. Perhaps I'd go to the step of installing a capacitor if the subwoofer was more than 200W and the dash lights started dimming, but this is usually only an issue if you install a huge sound system. Normal listening levels never reaches high power demands..

Hilari0 said:
Speakers will always perform better with a strong amp vs a weak amp. And a weak amp can make good speakers crackle even if they're far from their max power output, due to the amplifier not being able to handle the load. If you have a car with a proprietary amplifier system which uses weird inputs, it may be a challenge to make it work properly and you might be better served replacing that amplifier with an aftermarket one. Don't throw the stock factory amp away, if you ever want to reinstall the OEM system when you sell it or similar. If not, selling it may give a nice income as some of these go for a premium.
---------- Post added at 01:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------
Oh, and yeah. A standard car battery and alternator should be able to handle a normal sized sound system, even if it's aftermarket. I wouldn't be worried about installing a head unit, a 4x50W amp and a monoblock amp for the subwoofer. Perhaps I'd go to the step of installing a capacitor if the subwoofer was more than 200W and the dash lights started dimming, but this is usually only an issue if you install a huge sound system. Normal listening levels never reaches high power demands..
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spot on mate - the major issue with my oem kit is that it was fibre optic from the main head unit to the back amp. However the guy that fitted the stereo for me asured me that the power from the HU would be more than enough to power the speakers in the car...looks like he was wrong!
So in summary i can buy one of these as the amp for the 4 speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JbbC3Sa3qOK/p_500MRVF300/Alpine-MRV-F300.html
And then get the PAC LD-10 for the sub and that should be me done right? In theory...LOL

I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work, but I don't know anything about the headunit you have so I have no idea if it has good or bad preamp outputs. It does look like a pretty standard Rockchip based unit, so I suppose it would work fine.
Powering speakers with the built in amplifier works, but only to a certain point. It's mostly good for your bog standard OEM speakers from a mid to low class vehicle. Anything premium or larger setup in a luxury vehicle typically requires a bit more power than the internal one can give. I know they write 4x50W on the box for the head unit, but that number is a peak output power at 10% THD or something, horribly overrated. hehe. Not sure if your head unit uses the same amp IC as the Joying ones, but I checked the datasheet on that and it was at 4x15W at 4 ohms when it crossed the 0.1% THD mark, and you typically don't want to go beyond that.

Hilari0 said:
I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work, but I don't know anything about the headunit you have so I have no idea if it has good or bad preamp outputs. It does look like a pretty standard Rockchip based unit, so I suppose it would work fine.
Powering speakers with the built in amplifier works, but only to a certain point. It's mostly good for your bog standard OEM speakers from a mid to low class vehicle. Anything premium or larger setup in a luxury vehicle typically requires a bit more power than the internal one can give. I know they write 4x50W on the box for the head unit, but that number is a peak output power at 10% THD or something, horribly overrated. hehe. Not sure if your head unit uses the same amp IC as the Joying ones, but I checked the datasheet on that and it was at 4x15W at 4 ohms when it crossed the 0.1% THD mark, and you typically don't want to go beyond that.
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ok - i have booked in the fitting;
- a 4 x 50w rms amp with variable crossover for the speakers
- Line driver for the sub with variable gain
One more question. I have an RMA set up on the Head Unit. Is there a "best full android head unit" that i can buy and send this one back?
I want the unit with the best balance of being fast cpu (the one i have does lag a bit when trying to go in and out of apps and i am not used to that as i have always had decent android devices - it can be very frustrating), enough ram and 16gb storage minimum and also better sound quality than the one i have.
From what i gather they are all pretty similar in regard to the above but is there one out at the moment which stands out from the rest in terms of sound quality but keeps the full android and decent cpu?

Well, at the moment the best units around is the Intel Sofia based units with 2GB ram, they come with 32GB internal storage as well. I have the Joying JY-UL135N2 and I'm happy with it. As with all of the chinese Android head units, it has a few quirks, but it doesn't have any dealbreaking stuff. Plus it has fully working Bluetooth, just that they removed it from the Settings menu.. hehe. There's a thread here on the forum on how to make the full stock Bluetooth settings open, so that's really great!
Here's my head unit: https://www.carjoying.com/joying-ne...-wifi-mirror-link-entertainment-multimed.html
And here's the thread for full bluetooth: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...elopment/bluetooth-settings-launcher-t3504526
The biggest problem with it is that it doesn't have a good heatsink on it, so the CPU gets pretty hot. It still performs smoothly, so not a big issue but I don't like that it runs so hot so personally I'm gonna attach an Intel stock CPU cooler from a desktop with thermal epoxy, and that should take care of it.

Hilari0 said:
Well, at the moment the best units around is the Intel Sofia based units with 2GB ram, they come with 32GB internal storage as well. I have the Joying JY-UL135N2 and I'm happy with it. As with all of the chinese Android head units, it has a few quirks, but it doesn't have any dealbreaking stuff. Plus it has fully working Bluetooth, just that they removed it from the Settings menu.. hehe. There's a thread here on the forum on how to make the full stock Bluetooth settings open, so that's really great!
Here's my head unit: https://www.carjoying.com/joying-ne...-wifi-mirror-link-entertainment-multimed.html
And here's the thread for full bluetooth: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...elopment/bluetooth-settings-launcher-t3504526
The biggest problem with it is that it doesn't have a good heatsink on it, so the CPU gets pretty hot. It still performs smoothly, so not a big issue but I don't like that it runs so hot so personally I'm gonna attach an Intel stock CPU cooler from a desktop with thermal epoxy, and that should take care of it.
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ok great. I appreciate this
so just to clarify, with your stereo, there is no Bluetooth in the settings? So is there no way to pair your phone to make/receive calls unless i use this workaround? Why in the hell would they do that??
Also does this unit have usb flash ports so i can plug my 128gb flash drive in?
Also does it have sub-out?

nk33 said:
ok great. I appreciate this
so just to clarify, with your stereo, there is no Bluetooth in the settings? So is there no way to pair your phone to make/receive calls unless i use this workaround? Why in the hell would they do that??
Also does this unit have usb flash ports so i can plug my 128gb flash drive in?
Also does it have sub-out?
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Click to collapse
EDIT
Actually i can see the sub -out.
It says bluetooth 4 on the site....if i only want to use the Bluetooth for making calls etc i am assuming i wont need to do the mod?
i use wifi tethering from my phone anyway - not Bluetooth - i am assuming this stereo will be ok with this.
damn this stereo looks good.
should i be worried about the heat? i am seriously thinking of buying this and getting them to fit it along with the other equipment...and send the other one back for a refund

The bluetooth works out of the box, but it's somewhat limited with their not so good bluetooth dialer app. It works to call and such, and limited pairing, but you only get full use of it if you do the mod mentioned in that thread. It's pretty easy to do that mod though. And yes, it has sub out but there's no built in crossover or anything.

Most likely it will work well despite the heat. In the worst case, would you be comfortable in opening it and installing a heatsink on it? Thermal epoxy seems to be the way to go there, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive is the one I'm gonna use, just waiting for it to show up in the mail.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm

Hilari0 said:
Most likely it will work well despite the heat. In the worst case, would you be comfortable in opening it and installing a heatsink on it? Thermal epoxy seems to be the way to go there, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive is the one I'm gonna use, just waiting for it to show up in the mail.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm
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Click to collapse
Ok, I have ordered the head unit you have.
I will ask the fitter if he is willing to add a heatsink for me.
If it has an intel sofia processor… surely the processor has a heatsync gel and hearsink already?? It surely will overheat without one…?
Tell me are the audio specs better than my current unit? What is the rms on the speakers and the sub out voltage?
Sent from my SM-G925F using XDA Free mobile app

I have no idea what the output voltage is on the sub or preamp outputs, but the built in amp is 4x15-18W rms at 0,1 %thd. I can post a datasheet to the amplifier IC they use if you want. The sub output seems loud enough, I just use an active crossover on it with the gain set at 0 db.

@Hilari0 I disagree that the sofia units are the best. Mainly because the whole chipset was a failure and development stopped and you will never get updates and never see android 6 even. So after 2 years it is garbage. Also MTK based quad core units are slightly faster and support Android 6, 4G/LTE etc. natively.
http://www.pcworld.com/article/3063...-tablet-markets-after-cutting-atom-chips.html
I myself bought an Ownice C500 after considering all the options. It was also cheaper and so far there does not seem to be any problems reported. The only downside is that it has 16GB storage, but well I am thinking I will stick in an SD card if it ever becomes a problem.
Also C500 units have a subwoofer out but I don't know if it completely satisfies the requirements of the OP. I just ordered a C500 unit myself and waiting for it although I won't use the subwoofer out.