Database Users

8125 Battery Alternative

I recently left my Cingular 8125 in Bootloader mode over night, connected to my PC not knowing that it couldn't charge while in that mode. I woke up, and couldn't turn it on; I eventually found out that the battery couldn't charge while in Bootloader mode.
The only solutions that I've seen posted are to: (A) Get another charged battery, (B) Charge your battery in a working Wizard
Both solutions aren't possible for me at the moment... what I needed to know is if there is a way to charge using some funky wiring rig using standard AA batteries to power it for about 7-10min. or so.

Cut one end off an old usb cable. Then plug the usb cable into your computers usb port and touch the black wire to the (-) on the batt and the red wire to the (+) on the battery. It takes a few minutes, but the battery will charge. Then put the battery back in the phone and boot into the os. Then charge the phone as usual.
Jeff

You can jump some wires to your battery from a battery charger to get some power to your battery --- need 5.7 volts -- positive to positve, negative to negative but I would not recommend doing this. Your battery is a lithium Ion which takes a special charge. Take it to a Cingular Store and ask the clerk if they could just charge it up in another phone for a couple of hours. I'm sure they won't mind.
Lithium Ion batteries are fussy about how they are charged, so its best to do it in another phone or a charger made for your battery.
Cheers!

Thank you guys sooooooooooo much for the info.
You have no idea how important this is.
EDIT: I stripped the USB cable, the outer wire is silver and there is quite a bit of it... there are four wires encased in the middle: one black, one brown, one red, one orange... I do not know which wires to connect to the pads on the battery.

touch HD battery questions

the first battery charge on the HD is supposed to be a 8 or 10 or 12 hour charge? or on its not necesary
also the time used to charge it to the pc via usb cable is same as if ud plug it in the electric socket?
how long dose it take for u to charge ur phone.....
mine had 4 lines out of 10 and after 3 hours of it beeing conected to my pc and not in use its still got 4 lines....

opinions seem to vary on how long for 1st charge - personally I left mine on (mains) overnight, but that's just because I've had mobiles since year dot, and you used to have to!
But charging via PC doesn't seem to work as well as from the mains charger - depends a lot on the PC and how much juice it kicks out, some are a lot better than others.

Modern phones/batteries do not need "overnight" charging. My Touch HD even came with a little note saying you don't need to charge for 16hrs/overnight. Just charge until it's full...
Better to charge with wall socket because not all USB ports provide enough current. Some can't charge through the USB port while some can.
I can charge through my notebook but it takes a lot longer than the wall socket.

thanks bouth of u for the fast anwsers....

When I set WiFi settings to max performance, my HTC HD will not charge at all, actually it will loose charge during night, display is off, just WiFi, GSM and GPS is active, connected to provided wall charger. Back side of phone is really hot, I measured over 54°C

Problems charging.
guys(and lady's) Just got my HD. been running it for some time to drain the battery, while on my laptop the battery starts charging. I wanted to drain the battery to give it a good charge afterwords so I turnd off the option of charging while unit is active( in batt. menu) but When I got to 5% batt.cap. an tried to charge the unit (batt. option enabled again) it doesn't charge. now my batt. is empty and can't get in the phone. while on power my battery charging led gives a couple of seconds of charge indication then it turns off.
Any suggestions or is my battery dead. (charging unit is oke, and when on power the HD does give sufficient power to the battery (measured with mulitmeter) thx guys edit - Als when on power green and amber lights blink.

Could that be that your battery is too hot ? There is some safety protection that prevent the batyery to charge when it is over a temperature level.

battery not charging properly
My touch hd not charge the battery more then 50% i change the battery but same as before.
any suggestion
Regards

funstuffalex said:
also the time used to charge it to the pc via usb cable is same as if id plug it in the electric socket?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Power socket gives about 1amp - USB 500mA (.5 amp)

Touch HD Battery Charging Problem
The rom i am using is Energy 3 Rom
and try to use both sources wall socket and pc usb both are same.
if i charge the battery on usb cradle and put the phone it shoes 100% but after some use of the phone the charging start again and never show's full even left it over night.
Best regards

Not sure what's going on there,but try draining the battery to almost empty each time and then turn your phone off before charging it. Do this a few times and see if it helps. Mine took about a month beforeit came good.

Dear samlives
Thanks for helping
I will try it
Best Regards

HTC Touch Battery Charging Problem
I got a solution its not 100% but for time being its working for me.
Long press the power button and put the device in sleep mode.
All Done now charging 80 to 90% quite better then before.
Thanks a lot

My shift cant recharge

so, here's the problem -
i got HTC sfift, as a gift, and it was used sometime. second time I recharged it - it fails.
as soon as i take out power cable - it goes dead. ok, maybe a second, but it shuts down.
when i load vista, and go in battery info - it says - 1% and charging. and it stays on 1% all the time.
i'm asuming it is faulty battery, but could it be something else ? maybe a power socket ? or maybe those small metal pins beneath the battery, that touch battery and the backside of the shift .. ?
anyone ?

it's the battery. Mine charges up to 50-60% and stays there and the max is slowly decreasing downward ...

My shift can't charge or power up off AC
Hi, I have 2 shifts, and one of them is being funny (and not the funny "ha ha" kind)
The Shift X9500 will not charge off of AC power.
I have done these tests & got these results:
- Battery in & AC plugged in = no charge light comes on & W7 says nothing about charging
- Battery out & AC in = no charge light & W7 says no battery (expected)
- Battery in & AC out = no charge light & W7 says not charging (expected)
I tested AC adapter on a Tekkeon external battery and it charges that external battery so the AC cord works.
A new test was done.
With battery out, and AC cord in, the unit will not turn on
With battery in (and some voltage on battery), and the AC cord in, the unit can turn on, and I can remove the battery (while still on) and the unit remains on, and the battery area says (No battery-AC Power)
So what would make the Shift not turn on with the AC cord in only?
And, what would make the AC cord not charge the battery?
I'm thinking it is related to a fuse/circut protector or something from the AC to the unit, but mostly, why can the Shift "Run on AC, but not turn on with AC only (i.e. requires a battery to turn on)
UPDATE:
I called HTC and the Shift is under warranty so they said to mail it in.
It seems that the issue is mostly eluding to the AC not charging the Battery is causing all the other issues...we will see!

Photon Q got hot now won't power on

Hi everyone,
My Photon Q was probably about 30% charge when I last checked with it on. An hour or 2 later it was a little warm and was off. So I went to charge it using the car charger with 500mah charge rate. I came back about an hour later and the phone was really hot and no charging screen so I unplugged it. The green led light is lit when the phone is plugged in.
I tried holding the power button and volume down button, but it won't boot. If I have the usb charging cable plugged in from a PC or charger adapter when pressing those buttons, the green light will flicker off for a fraction of a second.
I then proceeded to dismantling the phone as I suspect a battery issue and the one in this phone is stupidly non-removable. After taking the back cover off, I tested the battery posts and received 0 volts. I still don't know if the battery caused the drain or if there's a short in the phone. I then took off the inside cover that holds the battery in. A few T5 screws later and the battery was removed. I connected the battery to some AA batteries in series to see if I could get a charge. A few hours later I got it up to 3 volts which held for several hours. So I connected it to a few more AA batteries in series to try and raise the voltage. I got it up to 3.67 volts and the battery is listed at 3.7 volts.
A day later and the voltage is still at 3.67 volts so I put the battery in the phone. I went to try and power it on, but nothing. I then connected it to a usb cord and received the slow flashing red led light a couple times before switching to green. The battery started getting warm again connected to the usb charger. After 20 minutes it was approaching hot so I unplugged the USB. The battery read 3.54 volts. 30 minutes later, 0 volts again.
Does anyone know what the actual voltage range is for this phone, as my old Samsung M320 is also 3.7 volts, but when testing the battery I get 4.10 volts? I heard it's pretty specific on minimum voltage. Any ideas for a temporary battery or way to boot the phone before spending $50 on a replacement battery and then find out there's a short in the phone. Is there another key combination to boot the phone, I'm trying to boot it to at least get my pictures and other data off it.
Thanks a lot in advance
Matt

Not the battery, seems to be an electrical short but where
I bought a new battery for the phone which had a 0 volt charge when I received it. I tried putting it in the phone as is to use the phone charger to charge it, but got nothing. So I charged it using 2, then 3 and then 4 AA batteries in series to get it up to 3.7 volts. I then put the battery in the phone and noticed the 2 large chips and the chip centered above them located by the camera get a little hot. I tried with the charger connected and not connected, but same thing. Power button doesn't turn the phone on. Just the green led lit when the USB power cable is attached. So now it seems there must be a short in the phone. Anyone know where I can look to check for a short, blown resistor or something in this phone? Or at least where the rom chip is located so maybe I can turn it into a usb drive to get my data at the least.
And sorry about the double post. I didn't receive any replies in the other section and I really need to get some data off the phone. Seemed the hardware section would be the place to check. Tree fell on the house and pictures before the tree was removed were taken with the phone which of course ironically stopped working right after.

Black screen with white streaks when powering up then black

I have been reading all the posts regarding the dreaded "black screen" issue. However mine doesn't seem to fit the bill
It has been left to discharge and wouldn't boot up. i plugged it in (wall charger) and left it for 24hrs. I tried to boot it up but all that comes on is the Google logo then i see some white video streaks then it turns black again
It is rooted and i tried to boot into TWRP but it shows the same streaks then it turns black again. I did press on the back where the connector was supposed to be and thinking would fix it but no success
I do not know what else to do.
Do i need a new screen? I wouldn't mind to replace it if i knew that was the problem but i am not sure if that is the case
Is there anyone that had a similar experience and can maybe share some ideas?
I would really appreciate it!!
Thank you

rainfactor said:
...regarding the dreaded "black screen" issue. However mine doesn't seem to fit the bill
It has been left to discharge and wouldn't boot up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was under the impression that that scenario is exactly the bill - the battery drains off to such a low voltage that the internal charge controller circuit doesn't work correctly at that low voltage, even when you put the device back on the charger, so you are stuck with a not-dead unit that won't turn on, and also won't take a charge. (But that hardware isn't dead - you just need a partial charge on the battery to get the charge circuit to start working again.)
The only recourse really is to get a *small* amount of charge on the battery by some means other than the built in charger, and then reconnect the battery to the tablet and put it on the charger to complete the charging.
There are disassembly instructions on here that take you through the steps necessary to get to the battery connector (it detaches and has a short run of wire between that connector & the battery so that should be convenient for attaching the battery to something else without removing the battery from the tablet). Use the search functions.
If you can borrow a voltmeter, the symptom will be obvious: a very discharged battery will have a terminal voltage around 3.0v (maybe less). Under normal conditions the battery voltage will rise to about 4.05v when fully charged (measured when disconnected from the charger) and be somewhere around 3v when completely discharged.
Don't do anything stupid (there are examples of that on here too). The charger that you use needs to limit the amount of current to a reasonable value, say less than 500 mA. The battery can tolerate up to about 1.8 Amps of charging current but you should use something far more conservative than that for safety reasons. And you are only trying to put a small charge on the battery (not completely charge it) so you don't need to use the fastest possible charging rate anyway.
Something incredibly cheap would be a USB cable (with the micro-B connector cut off) and a 1/4 watt, 100 ohm resistor connected to the positive supply line coming from a 5 volt USB wall wart charger. Even if the battery was a dead short, only 50 mA of current would flow and the resistor wouldn't burn up. If the battery was good but heavily discharged, you'd only be charging at a 20 mA rate - that would put a 10% charge on the battery in ~30 hours.
If you initially measured the battery and found it had a voltage of 2.5v or higher, you could use a 22 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor safely and charge the battery 10% in only 8 hours or so.
You can charge faster by using a resistor of a higher wattage rating, but 1/4 watt size are readily available and cheap.
The equation for power dissipated in the resistor is
P > V^2/R or
R > V^2/P = (Vs- Vb)^2/P
So for example in our case with Vs = 5, Vb = 3 and a 1/4 Watt (P) resistor, we would get
R > V^2/P = (Vs- Vb)^2/P = (5-3)^2/0.25 = 16 ohms.
The "dead shorted battery" worst case would be Vb=0 or
R > (5-0)^2/0.25 = 100 ohms
(so you can see where the numbers came from)
Anyway, that's my recommendation
- disassemble to the point of exposing the battery connector
-disconnect battery from tablet
- put battery on simple & safe charging circuit (+ terminal to resistor to + terminal, and - terminal to - terminal)
- let it sit for a while*
- reconnect to tablet and finish charging
- profit
* if you leave a live circuit unattended, even if it is only a 5v circuit, please please no exposed wiring or loose connections. Use tape and plastic straws for temporary insulation... or shrink wrap if you prefer a neater look.

bftb0 said:
I was under the impression that that scenario is exactly the bill - the battery drains off to such a low voltage that the internal charge controller circuit doesn't work correctly at that low voltage, even when you put the device back on the charger, so you are stuck with a not-dead unit that won't turn on, and also won't take a charge. (But that hardware isn't dead - you just need a partial charge on the battery to get the charge circuit to start working again.)
The only recourse really is to get a *small* amount of charge on the battery by some means other than the built in charger, and then reconnect the battery to the tablet and put it on the charger to complete the charging.
There are disassembly instructions on here that take you through the steps necessary to get to the battery connector (it detaches and has a short run of wire between that connector & the battery so that should be convenient for attaching the battery to something else without removing the battery from the tablet). Use the search functions.
If you can borrow a voltmeter, the symptom will be obvious: a very discharged battery will have a terminal voltage around 3.0v (maybe less). Under normal conditions the battery voltage will rise to about 4.05v when fully charged (measured when disconnected from the charger) and be somewhere around 3v when completely discharged.
Don't do anything stupid (there are examples of that on here too). The charger that you use needs to limit the amount of current to a reasonable value, say less than 500 mA. The battery can tolerate up to about 1.8 Amps of charging current but you should use something far more conservative than that for safety reasons. And you are only trying to put a small charge on the battery (not completely charge it) so you don't need to use the fastest possible charging rate anyway.
Something incredibly cheap would be a USB cable (with the micro-B connector cut off) and a 1/4 watt, 100 ohm resistor connected to the positive supply line coming from a 5 volt USB wall wart charger. Even if the battery was a dead short, only 50 mA of current would flow and the resistor wouldn't burn up. If the battery was good but heavily discharged, you'd only be charging at a 20 mA rate - that would put a 10% charge on the battery in ~30 hours.
If you initially measured the battery and found it had a voltage of 2.5v or higher, you could use a 22 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor safely and charge the battery 10% in only 8 hours or so.
You can charge faster by using a resistor of a higher wattage rating, but 1/4 watt size are readily available and cheap.
The equation for power dissipated in the resistor is
P > V^2/R or
R > V^2/P = (Vs- Vb)^2/P
So for example in our case with Vs = 5, Vb = 3 and a 1/4 Watt (P) resistor, we would get
R > V^2/P = (Vs- Vb)^2/P = (5-3)^2/0.25 = 16 ohms.
The "dead shorted battery" worst case would be Vb=0 or
R > (5-0)^2/0.25 = 100 ohms
(so you can see where the numbers came from)
Anyway, that's my recommendation
- disassemble to the point of exposing the battery connector
-disconnect battery from tablet
- put battery on simple & safe charging circuit (+ terminal to resistor to + terminal, and - terminal to - terminal)
- let it sit for a while*
- reconnect to tablet and finish charging
- profit
* if you leave a live circuit unattended, even if it is only a 5v circuit, please please no exposed wiring or loose connections. Use tape and plastic straws for temporary insulation... or shrink wrap if you prefer a neater look.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow! THANK YOU VERY MUCH !! I did not expect such a detailed answer.
I REALLY appreciate for taking the time to answer me!
I will try the things you recommended:good::good::good:

rainfactor said:
Wow! THANK YOU VERY MUCH !! I did not expect such a detailed answer.
I REALLY appreciate for taking the time to answer me!
I will try the things you recommended:good::good::good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The more information you can collect before you begin the more confidence you will have. Hopefully you have a voltmeter or can borrow one to insure you are getting the wiring polarity correct and you are not going to damage anything or cause a fire.
If the battery voltage is closer to 4v when you first crack open the device, then this hypothesis about an overly-discharged battery is not correct, and you should assume that some other mechanism is involved.
The resistor values I used as examples are just barely big enough to meet their own thermal rating (1/4 watt in the examples), so that means that they can get hot. I'm pretty sure their thermal rating is for "natural convection", meaning that you don't need to put a fan on them to keep them cool, but you shouldn't cover their bodies up with any insulation or shrink-wrap. Nor should you leave them in that state next to a pile of papers or a jug of gasoline
A more sophisticated approach would involve using an adjustable battery charger that operates near 5v (the normal wall-wart USB voltage) and will let you set the current level, but almost nobody owns one of those. (But I have plenty of dodgy USB cables that the cats have chewed on that can be sacrificed for a quick-n-dirty trickle charge exercise.)
good luck.