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Do you like it ??
How you have made it? i too want...
it is pleasant to me
it is awesome .. how did u do it?
well i had to dismantle the phone :S I passed a very thin sandpaper (600k) on the covers to remove the original ink !! then with a black mate spray i painted it ,let it dry very well and then applied varnish in spray also and voila !! black s100
adolfotregosa said:
well i had to dismantle the phone :S I passed a very thin sandpaper (600k) on the covers to remove the original ink !! then with a black mate spray i painted it ,let it dry very well and then applied varnish in spray also and voila !! black s100
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Very nice.. I was planning to do a metallic whitish colour.
Also, I think the button needs to be painted too.. do you have plans for those.. and how are you planning to do it?
Thanks
no, i like the bottons has they are
Let the buttons as they are, the contrast is very nice. I wonder how long will the paint least until scratches will appear :lol:
i think that they will not appear has they didn't appear on my laptop paintjob
adolfotregosa said:
i think that they will not appear has they didn't appear on my laptop paintjob
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And what is the name of the paint spray and varnish you've used?
great job adolfotregosa! how did you remove the lcd from the front casing. i have already dismantled my unit following the pdf posted by someone, which was more intented to fix the speaker problem.
GreenGremlin. any model toy paint spray usually works. it is important to sand off the surface with a very fine sand paper like what adolfotregosa used to remove any clear coat lacquer, and then sand it off again with wet, fine sand paper.
Love the color and I live the job done. Hmmm... Can anyone PM me the link on removing the case, I will try this out and I plan to make a design, ofcourse a yellow looking Imate won't look that good...
The PDF is quite big in size to send via email. i couldn't upload it to the ftp also thus here's the link.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=18384&highlight=disassemble
btw, the pdf was originally made by someone to try to fix the speaker problem. i didn't dare to remove the LCD since i didn't want to break anything, most especially the LCD.
if someone would be kind enough to post instructions on how to remove the LCD would greatly be appreciated by the group.
I saw some pretty cool jams on some site a while back that had been skinned,looks a pretty good alternative and you can change them all the time,don't know where to buy them from though!
I saw some pretty cool jams on some site a while back that had been skinned,looks a pretty good alternative and you can change them all the time,don't know where to buy them from though!
good job mate....ur magicien looks elegant....waiting for other designs from everyone....r u up for the challenge guys?it will be nice to turn this thread into housing cover design expo... :wink:
btw:i don't own a magicien but am considering repainting my mda2,something red with a ferrari sign maybe.. :lol:
what do u think???? :?
hey adolfotregosa....how did you get the perfect circles for the camera lens and the mirror? can you take them out or did you tape them?...of you taped them...how did you sand it?...i have everything i need to paint it WHITE (i wanted ferrari RED but they didnt have it in KRYLON brand paint)....so it'll look like ice cream sandwich but opposite....lol...i will post pictures when i am done.
can you take them out ! it's a single piece. white should be nice !! but i'm no mac fan :S lol
Very nice! I would love to add a slightly opaque white iPod effect on mine
jaythemagician said:
I saw some pretty cool jams on some site a while back that had been skinned,looks a pretty good alternative and you can change them all the time,don't know where to buy them from though!
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Think you're talking about a site called skinit.com They sell vinyl skins that peel off when you want to change the look. The skins cost around $10 USD, but I don't recall seeing anything on their site for a Jam.
Hi folks, in the past few weeks I slowly tried to pimp my Wizard and this is the outcome
First I took the whole think apart, then I sanded the paint and metall on the front cover off, and painted the whole thinkg as you can see black with car-paint . Yes, there are still a few things that didnt went that well, like on the back the breaking line between the part left free around the camera and the black surface around is not that clear,and I am affraid i took a little bit too much paint (in total around 6-7 layers). I guess this happend during the time the paint dryied. But all in all I think I did not a bad job...
And the Wizard only looks that great cause of zoki's fantastic ROM!
sure looks sweet!
Thanks for the tip, I Think I might do that to mine.
Thanks, if you have any questions, i would be happy to help .
niiiceeeee.. did you sand the thing before paint? there is a similar paint job.. i think it is called the 'white wizard'. very nice too
I think I'll paint mine a litle less bright, I mean your shade of black is like piano black. Maybe I'll paint it Black Dim.
Do I really need to sand it all?
How did you do it, cause mine's got some scratches and stuff...
Hyyy
WOW dude ur wizard is rocking
i wanna do that to mine but i have a couple of questions
can u explain step by step which screws and how to open up the wizard coz im a complete noob
also wat knda paint was it water based or oil based was it spray paint or brush painting and also everything else thanx man
again great foneeeee
one more hting i looked at the pictures and u have the power amera button etc silver but originally on mone they are black how did u get them to be like that
thanx again
for the manual... try here:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/
yeah, i think it also looks great, althougth... nope, i like it
@xusso, and mony114
I thinks depends which parts you want to paint, i wanted to paint the whole Wizard black, exept the buttons, and the circle around the camera as you can see. execpt for those parts, i sanded all other parts.
The sanding was quite easy (althought took some time and patience) exept for the front cover of the cellphone, it is not paint but kind of a metal surface around 0.2 mm think but beneath it is also plastic. Yes, i also sanded this one, but this was a lot of trouble, cause some places of this part are thin and it is dangerous to break them. But i think this is defenitly worth to sand as well.
Around the screen, there is a real mettal grid, this one i didnt and i think you also shouldnt sand. (in my first attempt to paint the Wizard, i left this part out, but afterwards I look in my opinion not so good, so i also painted it).
For the sanding of the plastic parts, i took 220-sand paper, and for the metallic surface on the front cover, i first went with a 100-sand paper over it and finished it off with the 220.
When I finished sanding all the parts i wanted to paint, I put stich over all the places and buttons i didnt wanted to paint black. (altought they also got some paint, it was not so grave, cause with a hard plastic card or screwdriver you can screch (in genearl) the coulor off again).
For painting (spay paint!) I took 'Black Glossy Rallye-Lack'. When you paint it, do it out in the open and for christ sake, take some protecion to cover your mouth!!! I didnt and I can tell you, it is totally not worth no to do. Hours afterwards I still had the bitter taste of lack in my mouth. (not mentioning the healh-danger).
I painted around 5-6 (kind of thin) layers. After every layer wait long enough untill the paint is dry. (I waited around 1 hour). After the last layer I let the parts dry over night for the paint to fully get dry. (it is worth it, otherwise you end up with fingerprints or other nasty stuff sticking on the paint).
et voila when you put i back togheter again dont forget to connect the soundboxes on the side or the keyboard like I did otherwise you have to disassamble the Wizard again .
I hope my small instruction help you further, if u still have any questions i am glad to help...
ps.: can u also post some images when u are finished, I would like to see how others paint their Wizard...
That was a great tutorial, thanks again!
I'll post my pics when I'm done with mine...
Maybe I paint it ...Pink!
So i read at ppcgeeks.com that this was possible so i tried it and i added my own flavor to it and BAM!
Sweet!
Wouldn't that be in accessories though?
nuke1 said:
Sweet!
Wouldn't that be in accessories though?
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i guess but i have a red theme goin on in my fone so idk?! but
if u have a CDMA diamond u can do this juss send me a PM
Why PM? Just tell people how you did it...
I hope I can post the url without ruffling any feathers. Here is the original thread over at PPCGeeks...
http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/showthread.php?t=46487
I did mine with RIT Black liquid dye. Turned out great.
The steps I took were...
1. Place a pot with 2 cups of water in stainless steel or Teflon coated sauce pan on the stove.
2. Make sure burner is on medium low. You want the water to get hot enough so that you see steam lightly rolling off the top. NO HOTTER BECAUSE YOU WILL WARP THE COVER.
3. I used half a bottle of the black dye. Pour the dye into the water and let steep for about 2 min.
4. Place cover into water/dye mixture. Stir about every min. Use something soft to stir...like a rubber spatula or something.
5. Keep the cover in the mixture for 5 - 15 minutes, depending on how dark you want the cover to turn out. The longer you leave it in, the darker it will turn out.
6. When you are ready to take the cover out, make sure you have cold tap water running. Place the cover under the tap water and rub with your ringers for about a minute. I used rubber gloves so as to not dye my fingers (although I didnt notice any dye on the gloves when I was done).
7. Once it is rinsed, dry with a paper towel.
8. Once it is dry, "buff" the cover with a cloth of some type. I used a wash cloth. Some recommend using denim or microfiber. I dont think it really matters, just people showing how ingenious they are. lol
You only have to buff it for a minute when using the liquid dye. And you really only have to buff it to even everything out. I highly recommend the liquid dye as you dont have to worry about splotching from the powder dye. I did my girlfriend's cover as well and she went with purple. I am going to post a link someone posted for mixing the colors and what you can expect. All respect to xweaponx over at ppcgeeks for the idea and initial steps. I recommend doing this. Even if you just go with black, it looks much better and doesnt show wear or dirt like the original cover.
Here is the link for the color matching/mixing.
http://www.ritdye.com/Create+Custom+Color.9.lasso
All in all, this took about 15 min to do. Nothing to it and it turns out looking very professional, as if it came like that. It does not effect the clear plastic cover for the camera. It does not effect the text under that clear piece either. I would recommend using a q-tip to dry the cover on the under side. Some people noticed that their clear piece was cloudy afterward. I suppose this is for one of 2 reasons. 1. they got the water too hot. 2. they didnt clear the bottom side of the clear piece afterward. If anyone has any questions post them here and I will try to help.
Also, you may wanna take a look at the cover about every min at the 5 min mark to make sure you are getting the color you want. It is gonna look darker while in the pot with the liquid pooled on it. Just monitor it to make sure you are getting the right color.
You can get the RIT dye at Walmart, Walgreens, Riteaid, CVS, fabric stores, and craft stores. Just depends on whats available.
clampi said:
So i read at ppcgeeks.com that this was possible so i tried it and i added my own flavor to it and BAM!
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Please do not double post. Your other thread has been deleted.
NotATreoFan said:
Please do not double post. Your other thread has been deleted.
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i did it in the Rapheal section too because i have a Sprint touch Pro i was trying to help them over ther too
DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible if you break your phone doing this. I am not telling anyone to do this, I am just sharing how I did it. If anyone tries it, post up your results!
Read through all of the steps, and if anything seems too difficult for you, do not try this. There is a good chance you will break something if you aren't completely confident.
Hey guys, I just wanted to share how I dyed my phone black (and people wanted to know lol). This is very dangerous, and this is no task AT ALL for the faint hearted. It is very easy to BREAK your phone doing this. In fact, to do one part you have to technically break the phone (hence why only experts should try this) but it will still work fine. Anyways, check out the pics attached!
MAD Props to xweaponx over at PPCGeeks for being the first (I believe) to try using RIT dye on their phones (the Touch Pro battery door).
Steps:
Pre-Step: Go to the nearest convienience store and pick up some RIT dye. It can be the powder or concentrate stuff, doesn't matter.
1. Take your phone completely apart. Follow this great tutorial here: http://androidforums.com/sprint-htc-hero/22036-sprint-htc-hero-disassembly-diy.html When you get to the trackball, remember which way to put it in, cause if you don't put it in the right way, you will start freaking out cause none of the panel buttons will reach the mainboard and they won't work!
2. Once you get to the end, this is the part where you have to be careful! You need to pull the screen off. This is very VERY dangerous too. You have to use an iPod pry tool or maybe a guitar pick or something plastic and thin. This screen is very tightly glued to the body, so this is going to be hard. GO SLOW. No need to risk breaking your glass screen
3. Once the screen is out, there are two more things you have to do. Use a tiny flathead screwdriver to pop out the earpiece. MAKE SURE: you know which way the earpiece is in, because when you re assemble it, you have to put it in the right way or you will have no sound out of the earpiece which can be very scary haha. Once that is out, take that same screwdriver to actually break off the End and Send buttons (right where they are connected to the body). If you don't feel comfortable doing this, don't try this at all, because if you don't do this step, the buttons will curl and not fit in the holes at all.
4. Now, you're phone should be completely apart. Make sure there is still nothing electronic on the housing of the phone.
5. Nows the fun part! Boil a pot of water. Once it is boiling, turn the heat slightly down to just under a boil, and pour some RIT dye of the color of your choice into the water. Use more dye for a more intense color, less for a more subtle change. Make sure you stir it up well.
6. Now, put the two housing pieces (the facial housing, and the battery cover) into the hot but not boiling water. Stir gently for about 10-20 minutes, checking on the color like an Easter egg.
7. Once your desired color is achieved, take out the pieces, and quickly run them under luke warm water, and gradually make the water colder. Keep rinsing until the rinse off water is completely clear. If you stop too early you might have a color bleeding problem (onto your hands) later. Use something like a paper towel or tissue to sop up the last bit of the dye so you do not have that color bleeding problem later. Let the pieces dry for a while.
8. Once the pieces are completely dry, put the phone back together using the guide I liked in step one (follow in reverse obviously ). Make sure you put the earpiece in the correct way like mentioned above.
9. If you followed everything, you should have a sweet looking original phone!
With all of this said, only do this if you feel like you can. And remember that disclaimer up at the top. Not my fault if you break it! If you do try this, post up your results! I wanna see all the colors anyone tries, or even if you did it black.
great tutorial, thanks! Looks nice
never thought of using dye, Great idea!
morbidpete said:
never thought of using dye, Great idea!
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Got the original idea from xweaponx over at PPCGeeks when he did it to his touch pro battery door. Mad props to him for coming up with this great idea!
a darker, Hunter Green would look really nice as well
coldsweat said:
a darker, Hunter Green would look really nice as well
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I agree! I was also thinking a nice darker blue would look pretty good too. If anyone else wants to try this, I really wanna see what kinda colors they pick
One thing to add: When you're done and they're dry, rub them for a few minutes with a tissue, to get the excess color off so it doesn't stain your hands/face/clothes as you use the phone. learned that the hard way with my TP.
entropism said:
One thing to add: When you're done and they're dry, rub them for a few minutes with a tissue, to get the excess color off so it doesn't stain your hands/face/clothes as you use the phone. learned that the hard way with my TP.
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Thanks, I'll add that into the end of the tutorial!
Thats a great idea! I might try to die mine a dark blue
But how much would the dye cost, and where can I get a 'T-6 Torx' screwdriver
You can get the screwdrivers at any hardware store. A T4, 5 and 6 will have you set for damn near any cell phone out.
The dye is $2/per pack at Walmart, make sure you get the powdered and not the liquid. 1 pack will easily fill a 3 quart pot and dye as many backs as you need.
One thing about dark colors: Do NOT buy them, because your backs will come out nearly black. If you buy the royal blue and let it sit in the dye longer, you'll get navy-ish, kind of dark purple. Same with red to maroon, emerald to forest, etc.
Be VERY careful as the housing WILL curl up on you if you don't pay attention. Use rubber coated tongs and stir the pot lightly and constantly.
entropism said:
You can get the screwdrivers at any hardware store. A T4, 5 and 6 will have you set for damn near any cell phone out.
The dye is $2/per pack at Walmart, make sure you get the powdered and not the liquid. 1 pack will easily fill a 3 quart pot and dye as many backs as you need.
One thing about dark colors: Do NOT buy them, because your backs will come out nearly black. If you buy the royal blue and let it sit in the dye longer, you'll get navy-ish, kind of dark purple. Same with red to maroon, emerald to forest, etc.
Be VERY careful as the housing WILL curl up on you if you don't pay attention. Use rubber coated tongs and stir the pot lightly and constantly.
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How do you prevent this? and i'm assuming this breaks your warranty, because it is pretty clear that the phone was dyed.
lol, yeah, say goodbye to your warranty. As to how you prevent it: keep the heat low, for one. Bring it to a low boil, then put the heat on the very lowest setting you can. You don't want this bubbling at all. Heck, you can do this easily with the water just barely steaming hot. Stir constantly, and pull it out of the water to check the color and to see if it's starting to warp.
mine is black too, all i had to do was buy a $5 gel cover off ebay. looks great and protects my phone. somedays i'm feeling grey so i remove the gel cover and trust gadget guard's full skin and invisible shield's front protection.
yeah i'm picky like that.
lol i did this back in the day to my tp and i had a purple battery cover for a while till i got my hero, tehehe
Hmm, just brainstorming here, but do you with there might be a way to leave part of the phone undyed? Like with a wax crayon or something like that. Wax crayon is probably not realistic but you get my point.
Vrekk, it's possible. I remember in the TP thread, someone was using vinyl adhesive stickers to keep the dye off their phones, leaving it the stock color when they removed it. Looked tacky, IMHO, but it's certainly possible.
entropism said:
You can get the screwdrivers at any hardware store. A T4, 5 and 6 will have you set for damn near any cell phone out.
The dye is $2/per pack at Walmart, make sure you get the powdered and not the liquid. 1 pack will easily fill a 3 quart pot and dye as many backs as you need.
One thing about dark colors: Do NOT buy them, because your backs will come out nearly black. If you buy the royal blue and let it sit in the dye longer, you'll get navy-ish, kind of dark purple. Same with red to maroon, emerald to forest, etc.
Be VERY careful as the housing WILL curl up on you if you don't pay attention. Use rubber coated tongs and stir the pot lightly and constantly.
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You can use the dark colors just fine, you just need to use less dye. The pack is meant for gallons of water, not a 3 quart pot. For example, if you buy the navy blue back, if you put 1/4th of the package in a 3 quart pot, you will get a nice navy (maybe a little lighter) blue.
I literally made dozens of touch pro backs with this method, with pretty much any color you could think of. You can mix and match dyes to get different colors as well. Obviously you only get one shot at it with your phone, so find some old touch pro backs or something and do it with that first.
For best results on removing the "glass" part of the housing, use a hair dryer (on low or medium, high will probably melt your case) to warm up the glue. I just removed one and it took about 15 seconds with no damage, becauase the glue was nice and warm and just came apart.
fyi...it will eventually wear off. it did on my tpro battery door.
zikronix said:
fyi...it will eventually wear off. it did on my tpro battery door.
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My diamond wore off as well, but if i remember correctly it was months later.
You don't even need to remove the "glass". Unless you have scratches on it, it just won't dye, can't adhere to that plastic.
anyone want to try to polish the nexus one ?.. make a video guide please
welcome to XDA...you try it first!
Polish what? It's plastic, not metal.
Except for the metal frame, you mean..?
he doesn't even know he has a Aluminium frame phone And is probably one of those who defend Al against plastic.. hehe kidding yeah I troll
I will seriously think about doing this. I just paid for one that looks really beat up.
I think it will involve stripping everything out of the metal frame, wetsanding until it's smooth, then polishing.
GnatGoSplat said:
I will seriously think about doing this. I just paid for one that looks really beat up.
I think it will involve stripping everything out of the metal frame, wetsanding until it's smooth, then polishing.
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wetsanding cast aluminum??... no way, don't even try that unless you want to really mess it up... you're gonna need a buffer (Harbor Freight, bench-mount model about $60) a couple of very soft cotton/flannel buffing disks and some red/green/brown jeweler's rouge... it will come out perfect...
wetsanding with up to 3000 grit paper is good for clear plastic and painted surfaces (like clearcoat) to remove imperfections like 'orange peel' or to remove yellowing and scratches from headlight lenses... wetsanding will destroy aluminum unless you know exactly what you're doing, and you'll end up polishing out your sand scratches with compound anyway, and it still won't come out right... you need something with a higher grit than 3000 (which is usually the highest grit paper they sell at a store) and that is jeweler's rouge... trust me on this one...
What's your experience with polishing aluminum?
I just wonder, because lots of people on the car forum I'm on have wet-sanded aluminum to polish what were previously painted wheels.
I don't think you can go straight to polish on the N1 because the finish is textured. Also, the photos of the phone I bought look like the thing has deep scratches and concrete rash which will need to be smoothed significantly and sanding is the only way I can think of to fix that.
The phone is really beat looking, so if I mess it up or it doesn't look good, I'll just replace the housing. I had already factored the cost of a new housing into the price I offered and paid anyway.
I have 2 n-1's... one of them in pieces, and I too, was seriously thinking ofdoing this for the luls. basically, sand off paint, then clearcoat it, since aluminum does oxidize.
I would remove everything first...
Sinister Footwear said:
wetsanding cast aluminum??... no way, don't even try that unless you want to really mess it up... you're gonna need a buffer (Harbor Freight, bench-mount model about $60) a couple of very soft cotton/flannel buffing disks and some red/green/brown jeweler's rouge... it will come out perfect...
wetsanding with up to 3000 grit paper is good for clear plastic and painted surfaces (like clearcoat) to remove imperfections like 'orange peel' or to remove yellowing and scratches from headlight lenses... wetsanding will destroy aluminum unless you know exactly what you're doing, and you'll end up polishing out your sand scratches with compound anyway, and it still won't come out right... you need something with a higher grit than 3000 (which is usually the highest grit paper they sell at a store) and that is jeweler's rouge... trust me on this one...
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Cast aluminum sands then polishes just fine. I'd use 1000 ish to remove the paint , then 2000-3000 until it hazes. After that some rubbing compound , glaze, swirl mark remover and she'll look like a mirror. Zoop seal it and you're done.
Zmydust said:
Cast aluminum sands then polishes just fine. I'd use 1000 ish to remove the paint , then 2000-3000 until it hazes. After that some rubbing compound , glaze, swirl mark remover and she'll look like a mirror. Zoop seal it and you're done.
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please post your project zmydust
I'm actually doing this right now. No video but it is easy. Just take your time.
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA Premium App
Same as a gun slide.
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA Premium App
GnatGoSplat said:
What's your experience with polishing aluminum?
I just wonder, because lots of people on the car forum I'm on have wet-sanded aluminum to polish what were previously painted wheels.
I don't think you can go straight to polish on the N1 because the finish is textured. Also, the photos of the phone I bought look like the thing has deep scratches and concrete rash which will need to be smoothed significantly and sanding is the only way I can think of to fix that.
The phone is really beat looking, so if I mess it up or it doesn't look good, I'll just replace the housing. I had already factored the cost of a new housing into the price I offered and paid anyway.
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I have lots of experience polishing different types of metals, plastics, you name it... while the methods you and others are describing, 'could' work out for you (or someone who hasn't actually done this before, as I'm assuming you haven't), the method I told you will get you the best results in the shortest amount of time, with the least amount of effort... I've been through this a lot... restored cars, jewelry, internal lock pieces from old church doors, weapons, etc, etc... $60 for a decent buffer, $10 for some buffing discs, and $10 for some jeweler's rouge, about 20 minutes, and you're set... once you get the hang of it, you can polish that glass up too... jeweler's rouge works wonders... if you take your time and are careful to buff with the texture of the grain and at the right speed and pressure, you'll maintain the textured surface on the N1 as well... good luck to you, however you end up deciding to tackle it...
Seriously, why sand when you can just use a strong paint remover?
Because it's anodized and not painted?
Most paint removers won't strip anodizing, are expensive, won't reduce scratches and scuffs, won't smooth the texture, and most importantly, I already have 3000-grit sandpaper.
I just got my beat up N1 on Saturday. It's really rough and should be a good candidate for experimentation. I'm currently using it, so experimentation will wait until the parts I ordered to repair my other N1 arrive.
This thread is a fail.
Sanding the phone down gently will not cause any damage to it. As long as you don't sand it down past the metal there will be no problem. The hard part isn't sanding, it's putting on a new surface.
I have sanded down an Xperia X1 before (black and silver model) and re-finished it. I did this because there were scratches on the body that were annoying me. It was very simple and held up very nicely.
For those who want the rubberized texture, use plasti-dip paint. Works like a charm.
parm104 said:
For those who want the rubberized texture, use plasti-dip paint. Works like a charm.
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How thick is the PlastiDip paint? Did you use the spray? Is the spray a lot thinner than the dip for tool handles?
GnatGoSplat said:
How thick is the PlastiDip paint? Did you use the spray? Is the spray a lot thinner than the dip for tool handles?
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Hey,
There are a few different applications made by Plasti Dip. The spray that you are talking about would indeed be too thick for the styling of our phones. They have a paint on version and another spray version that can be controller more when applying so that you get the perfect amount.
There are also 3rd-party companies that sell the same style of products with different application types at your local hardware store.
post some pics if someone will try )