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Is it possible to make a small program that allows to toggle charge on and off ?
as far as i know...charging our Diamond isnt nothing positive toward battery life .
I know you can enable or disable charging in system/power
but it would be awesome if someone would write small program/script to do that so we can place shortcut in programs menu to toggle
There is a setting that allows you to chose to charge or not to charge when synced.
Kueh said:
There is a setting that allows you to chose to charge or not to charge when synced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He already mentioned that.
He's looking for some softkey or software/shortcut that can toggle that setting.
WhiteCell said:
as far as i know...charging our Diamond isnt nothing positive toward battery life .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I know... it doesn't matter with actual batteries.
If I look at my notebook (which is over 2 years old) where I charge and uncharge all the time - the battery works still fine.
I'm not sure if it's worth the work - if the battery life sucks after a few month (years..?) - you just buy a new one for a few Euro/Dollar. (Man! You don't have an iPhone...lol)
I've never had a mobile phone for more than a year - so I wouldn't care!
(But I'm pretty sure the actual batterys don't care either!)
Li-Ion batteries don't suffer from the memory effect in the same way as Ni-MH batteries do, so theoretically it won't harm to charge the battery whenever you want to, regardless of it's charge level at the time. They do have a limited amount of cycles though, a cycle is when it goes from full charge to full discharge. It's eventually going to wear out no matter how you treat it.
salada2k said:
Li-Ion batteries don't suffer from the memory effect in the same way as Ni-MH batteries do, so theoretically it won't harm to charge the battery whenever you want to, regardless of it's charge level at the time. They do have a limited amount of cycles though, a cycle is when it goes from full charge to full discharge. It's eventually going to wear out no matter how you treat it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so basically what your saying is Li-Ion batteries cannot over charge and then eventually start to decrease in total battery life?
If so, does that mean my T-mobile Wing's battery just crazy?
It would have exploded if it could "overcharge".
li-ion has a limited battery life by itself, which doesn't depend on usage/charging.
but charging can shorten the battery life if done wrong. charging cycles vary depending on how empty the battery was. it looks something like this: (see wikipedia/google for specific numbers)
95% 1000000 cycles
90% 100000 cycles
70% 10000 cycles
50% 1000 cycles
30% 100 cycles
10% 10 cycles
0% 0 cycles
actually you can never reach below 30% because the battery or phone will protect itself whenever that point is reached and turn itself off.
conclusion: charge whenever you can!
ps: li-ion for cars only discharge to 70%, so the battery can actually be used for longer than 2 years unlike a cell phone battery, where it can be discharged to 30%.
Guys, this is silly. The battery will work with no problems for 2-3 years. Then you can buy another one or, more probably, another phone. There is no point whatsoever to not charging it when connected to the computer. As a matter of fact, this will only reduce its lifetime.
I tend to leave it on charge over night, then use it during the day (Browsing, comms etc..).
But then I charge it again halfway thru the day in case I run out of battery if I'm out late at night (more comms). Even if half left.
Then the cycle gets repeated..
Buy a spare battery or is this even more detrimental?
You have nothing to worry about as Li-Ion batteries (what the HD uses) do not suffer from the memory effect (which is what you're worried about). Top charging will have no negative affect on the battery. Whatever max battery loss that you might loose overtime is equivalent to if the battery was never used or used 100%-0% every time. Probably after a year or two you may want to get a new battery as the old will no longer hold quite as much charge as it did originally.
Interesting! i do the same thing Panos was worried about that.
not anymore
Paul.
I got my HD just before Christmas. Initially my battery life was very good lasting 2-3 days on one change.
For the past 3 months I put the phone on charge every night.
I've just had to buy a new battery; it now only holds charge for a few hours of continuous use and after an overnight charge only reaches about 80% capacity.
I know the boffins say Lithium Ion has no memory but my battery is trying to evolve and develop a memory
2-3days! u couldnt have been on the wap wap then?
or was u? mine lasts a day, thats going on wap for like 3 hours, calls, text.
Paul.
"but my battery is trying to evolve and develop a memory"
hehe
well maybe your batt was just ½ defect to begin with and then got worse and worse
So to confirm again, even if the HD reaches 50% battery life, i can recharge back to 100% with no problem?
Damn i've always heard it to be the other way round. I always hear about people complaining when they leave their nokia phones on charge overnight only to last less and less.
no matter what you do batteries get worse and worse
½defect poor ones sooner then good ones
thanks guys for response.
I've heard different methods but get confused with lith/li-onetc..
I've heard even with this type its best to run down completely once a while in order for it to "calibrate".
as long as its not too damaging I don't mind charging.
after all what's the point of such a kick-ass screen if I don't take advantage of it.. the whole day!
battery
ofcourse that ture HD battery is not that good as before previously it use to give 1.5 days. every day charge worries me aswell in first few months it use to give battery life equally even if its first 90-100% or 0-10% but now 20% battery is not realiable aswell.
panos123 said:
thanks guys for response.
I've heard different methods but get confused with lith/li-onetc..
I've heard even with this type its best to run down completely once a while in order for it to "calibrate".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's Ni/Cd batteries you're thinking of.
Any lithium battery will hate you for running it down completely; you'll harm it and it won't "calibrate" because of it.
ive done the charging overnight method on pretty much all of my phones and have never noticed any dramatic change?i have been told you need to discharge the battery completely once in a while??
bonesy said:
i have been told you need to discharge the battery completely once in a while??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't I answer this in the post before yours?
Don't completely drain a lithium battery.
A unique drawback of the Li-ion battery is that its service life is dependent upon aging (shelf life). From time of manufacturing, regardless of whether it was charged or the number of charge/discharge cycles, the battery will decline slowly and predictably in "capacity". This means an older battery will not last as long as a new battery due solely to its age, unlike other batteries. This is due to an increase in internal resistance, which affects its ability to deliver current, thus the problem is more pronounced in high-current applications than low. This drawback is not widely published. However, as this capacity decreases over time, the time required to charge it also decreases proportionally. Also, high charge levels and elevated temperatures hasten permanent capacity loss for Lithium ion batteries. This heat is caused by the traditional carbon anode, which has been replaced with good results by Lithium titanate. Lithium titanate has been experimentally shown to drastically reduce the degenerative effects associated with charging including expansion and other factors.
At a 100% charge level, a typical Li-ion battery that is full most of the time at 25 °C or 77 °F will irreversibly lose approximately 20% capacity per year. However, a battery in for example a poorly ventilated laptop may be subject to a prolonged exposure to much higher temperatures, which will significantly shorten its life. Different storage temperatures produce different loss results: 6% loss at 0 °C (32 °F), 20% at 25 °C (77 °F), and 35% at 40 °C (104 °F). When stored at 40%–60% charge level, the capacity loss is reduced to 2%, 4%, 15% at 0, 25 and 40 degrees Celsius respectively.
In essence, a battery stored at half capacity will last longer, but ofcourse you want to use it at full capacity. It's an inherent drawback.
Also, Li-ion batteries are not as durable as nickel metal hydride or nickel-cadmium designs, and can be extremely dangerous if mistreated. They may explode if overheated or if charged to an excessively high voltage. Furthermore, they may be irreversibly damaged if discharged below a certain voltage. To reduce these risks, li-ion batteries generally contain a small circuit that shuts down the battery when discharged below a certain threshold (typically 3 V) or charged above a certain limit (typically 4.2 V).
wow dude you are Gordon Freeman
Whoah! Thanks for that.
can you just clarify one more thing though?
I know the battery tells itself to stop charging once full but how about operating the device whilst charging?
It gets very hot so how bad is this in short term? Dangerously bad?
Holy Bear said:
Didn't I answer this in the post before yours?
Don't completely drain a lithium battery.
A unique drawback of the Li-ion battery is that its service life is dependent upon aging (shelf life). From time of manufacturing, regardless of whether it was charged or the number of charge/discharge cycles, the battery will decline slowly and predictably in "capacity". This means an older battery will not last as long as a new battery due solely to its age, unlike other batteries. This is due to an increase in internal resistance, which affects its ability to deliver current, thus the problem is more pronounced in high-current applications than low. This drawback is not widely published. However, as this capacity decreases over time, the time required to charge it also decreases proportionally. Also, high charge levels and elevated temperatures hasten permanent capacity loss for Lithium ion batteries. This heat is caused by the traditional carbon anode, which has been replaced with good results by Lithium titanate. Lithium titanate has been experimentally shown to drastically reduce the degenerative effects associated with charging including expansion and other factors.
At a 100% charge level, a typical Li-ion battery that is full most of the time at 25 °C or 77 °F will irreversibly lose approximately 20% capacity per year. However, a battery in for example a poorly ventilated laptop may be subject to a prolonged exposure to much higher temperatures, which will significantly shorten its life. Different storage temperatures produce different loss results: 6% loss at 0 °C (32 °F), 20% at 25 °C (77 °F), and 35% at 40 °C (104 °F). When stored at 40%–60% charge level, the capacity loss is reduced to 2%, 4%, 15% at 0, 25 and 40 degrees Celsius respectively.
In essence, a battery stored at half capacity will last longer, but ofcourse you want to use it at full capacity. It's an inherent drawback.
Also, Li-ion batteries are not as durable as nickel metal hydride or nickel-cadmium designs, and can be extremely dangerous if mistreated. They may explode if overheated or if charged to an excessively high voltage. Furthermore, they may be irreversibly damaged if discharged below a certain voltage. To reduce these risks, li-ion batteries generally contain a small circuit that shuts down the battery when discharged below a certain threshold (typically 3 V) or charged above a certain limit (typically 4.2 V).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really nice info, thank you for that.
panos123 said:
Whoah! Thanks for that.
can you just clarify one more thing though?
I know the battery tells itself to stop charging once full but how about operating the device whilst charging?
It gets very hot so how bad is this in short term? Dangerously bad?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not really, i used to have Xperia, and you have to see how that one gets hot!
really HOT, specially Charging + WiFi or GPS!
but nothing happens.
plus high temps (if i remember correctly) something more than 60c so it's so far from there.
good cos I kinda like it.
Like one of hand warmer things you get from a camping store..
Id like to have another question?
Is it OK if I do this?
Sometimes I put my blackstone on charger. It charges up to eg. 80% but I need to go to lunch (I forgot to mentioon that I am at work). So I pull out the charger take the phone and after hour I return and put the phone back on charger...is this bad?
Thanks.
No, that should do no harm to your battery.
But think about the USB jack. Don't plug it in and out 100 times a day.
My old phone's USB jack lost its stability after the 2 years due to that excessive use.
I have another issue. Don't know if it has been discussed on another thread. The battery indicator on the Touch HD is not lineal at all. Once you're below 50% if drops quickly. 20% and 10% are almost inexistent, I get the alert of low battery a few minutes after seeing the battery at 30%.
I had a HTC TyTN II before and at least the battery indicator was more lineal. In the Touch HD I try to charge before it goes below 50%.
Is it just me or everyone else that is experiencing a super long time in charging their phone to full battery? I am running the froyostone latest build and I have already followed all the guides in this forum to save battery life. The issue I am having is that it takes many hours to recharge the battery to full when connected to a wall charger.
It took 5 hours to go from 30% battery to 90%.
*no i wasn't charging the phone with the phone turn off*
Zythyr said:
Is it just me or everyone else that is experiencing a super long time in charging their phone to full battery? I am running the froyostone latest build and I have already followed all the guides in this forum to save battery life. The issue I am having is that it takes many hours to recharge the battery to full when connected to a wall charger.
It took 5 hours to go from 30% battery to 90%.
*no i wasn't charging the phone with the phone turn off*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a stock battery, which I can charge from 25% or less to 100% in about 30 minutes to an hour. I think there is something wrong with your charger.
its actually not taking that long, it probably got to 90% VERY quickly, you just checked on it later... they're false numbers... what you need to do is this; run your battery all the way down.. then charge it for about 1-2hrs, until it gets somewhere in the 90's then, while plugged in, shut the phone down, remove the battery, put the battery back in, boot up the phone (the phone should remain plugged in) then load up WM, load up android with the hard buttons backlight on, then once it boots you should show higher than what you had before (if not 100%) from this point android will remember your charge and you will be able to go to 100% all the time now. (until you load a new rom)
10507 said:
I have a stock battery, which I can charge from 25% or less to 100% in about 30 minutes to an hour. I think there is something wrong with your charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got stock battery also. No idea why it taking so long.
javolin13 said:
its actually not taking that long, it probably got to 90% VERY quickly, you just checked on it later... they're false numbers... what you need to do is this; run your battery all the way down.. then charge it for about 1-2hrs, until it gets somewhere in the 90's then, while plugged in, shut the phone down, remove the battery, put the battery back in, boot up the phone (the phone should remain plugged in) then load up WM, load up android with the hard buttons backlight on, then once it boots you should show higher than what you had before (if not 100%) from this point android will remember your charge and you will be able to go to 100% all the time now. (until you load a new rom)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already tried this but still no luck.
10507 said:
I have a stock battery, which I can charge from 25% or less to 100% in about 30 minutes to an hour. I think there is something wrong with your charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kernel are you using?
Sichroteph said:
What kernel are you using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am using hastarin r8 kernel, but I was experiencing the same issue with previous versions and the default kernel.
I just tested the charging rate by connecting my HD2 to a stock charger from HTC which I borrowed from a friend. Charging was a lot faster.
Since I bought my HD2 used, the charger that came with it, is not the stock charger from HTC.
But I still don't understand what is causing the charging to be very slow.
How to calculate charging time
Charging time = capacity of battery x 1,4 / charging current
HD2 stock battery= 1230mAh x 1,4 / 1000mA = 1,7 hours
Best
leehobin
Two things on charging batteries:
1) First, make sure none of the pins in the battery compartment is bent. This dramatically slowed charging for me once.
2) Android keeps battery stats in a file that gets loaded with your build. THese stats are often wrong. Be sure to fully charge under WinMo, then with power still attached, boot into Android. This will adjust some of the stats and charging in Android should be fine then. There's a thread somewhere on more details here if you want to tweak your stats. The battery slows down its charging when it gets close to the full state. If for some reason your charger thinks the temperature is getting too high or the state is getting near full it dramatically slows the charging rate. Both of these could be erroneous interpretations of the battery data. Also, if you have an extended battery, make sure to use a Kernel that is compatible with extended batteries, like Hastarin 7.x.
Zythyr said:
I just tested the charging rate by connecting my HD2 to a stock charger from HTC which I borrowed from a friend. Charging was a lot faster.
Since I bought my HD2 used, the charger that came with it, is not the stock charger from HTC.
But I still don't understand what is causing the charging to be very slow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all chargers are built the same. Some usb charger provide more juice while others provide less. Maybe your non stock charger came from a non smart phone...
Zythyr said:
Is it just me or everyone else that is experiencing a super long time in charging their phone to full battery? I am running the froyostone latest build and I have already followed all the guides in this forum to save battery life. The issue I am having is that it takes many hours to recharge the battery to full when connected to a wall charger.
It took 5 hours to go from 30% battery to 90%.
*no i wasn't charging the phone with the phone turn off*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Current Widget from the Market can tell you how many mA your phone is getting when it's charging.
this is just an approximation formula. a lithium ion battery charger is more sophisticated than this. it first brings battery voltage up to 20% safely (because any voltage below this is the harmful zone of operation), then it stuffs the battery at full capacity upto 80%. then in the 3rd stage, the current drops linearly with time.
over the past year, my stock battery gives me the following profile:
20-80% -> 1 hour (800-820ma constant, unless phone is awake)
80-100% -> 1 hour (800 -> 0ma)
by 100% i mean 0ma charge current. not 100% on the battery icon. you should be aware that the battery is still charging even after the indicator reaches 100%. but the current is insignificant (10-20ma)
even though the charger is rated at 5v 1A, it supplies only 820ma current at the maximum. this is normal. also for a lion battery the safe operating regions are around 20-90%. by safe i mean prolonging battery life. this roughly corresponds to 3.6v - 4.0v. avoid overcharging your battery frequently.
also someone mentioned current widget as a good approximate tool to study battery performance. you might also want to delete batterystats.bin and condition your battery once (i.e. fully discharge and fully recharge). this will force android to re-determine the new 0% and 100% levels. search the android forums for this.
hope this helps.
leehobin said:
Charging time = capacity of battery x 1,4 / charging current
HD2 stock battery= 1230mAh x 1,4 / 1000mA = 1,7 hours
Best
leehobin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
silenced3 said:
this is just an approximation formula. a lithium ion battery charger is more sophisticated than this. it first brings battery voltage up to 20% safely (because any voltage below this is the harmful zone of operation), then it stuffs the battery at full capacity upto 80%. then in the 3rd stage, the current drops linearly with time.
over the past year, my stock battery gives me the following profile:
20-80% -> 1 hour (800-820ma constant, unless phone is awake)
80-100% -> 1 hour (800 -> 0ma)
by 100% i mean 0ma charge current. not 100% on the battery icon. you should be aware that the battery is still charging even after the indicator reaches 100%. but the current is insignificant (10-20ma)
even though the charger is rated at 5v 1A, it supplies only 820ma current at the maximum. this is normal. also for a lion battery the safe operating regions are around 20-90%. by safe i mean prolonging battery life. this roughly corresponds to 3.6v - 4.0v. avoid overcharging your battery frequently.
also someone mentioned current widget as a good approximate tool to study battery performance. you might also want to delete batterystats.bin and condition your battery once (i.e. fully discharge and fully recharge). this will force android to re-determine the new 0% and 100% levels. search the android forums for this.
hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow ! thanks alot !
Is it bad to let my charge over night overnight? I thought it would stop charging when it got full to avoid overhanging.
Sent from my HTC Inspire 4G
Since I have access to a a battery simulator and charger... the best way to recondition a battery is:
1. Create a low battery scenario by lowering the input voltage to just a hair above 2.7 volts (I had to create a shim to get to the battery receiver leads).
2. Boot with full 4.2 and in ClockWork remove battery stats
3. Drain and Charge battery to 4.2
I get enterprise email and I get a lot of mail daily that I have to read and respond to (150 or more -- no I don't respond to all of them), plus the phone calls, RSS reading and some texting plus a pic here and there and maybe a couple of you tube videos. I get more than 24 hours until the 15 % comes up. 50 hours would be nice but that did not even happen in my black berry with Edge only.
Mine improve 3 fold from sub 7 hours to 24 plus (yes I sleep late so probably the phone gets a 6 hour rest but the enterprise email and text is pushed down even then as I work with folks from Asia and Europe as well.
logdrum1 said:
Since I have access to a a battery simulator and charger... the best way to recondition a battery is:
1. Create a low battery scenario by lowering the input voltage to just a hair above 2.7 volts (I had to create a shim to get to the battery receiver leads).
2. Boot with full 4.2 and in ClockWork remove battery stats
3. Drain and Charge battery to 4.2
I get enterprise email and I get a lot of mail daily that I have to read and respond to (150 or more -- no I don't respond to all of them), plus the phone calls, RSS reading and some texting plus a pic here and there and maybe a couple of you tube videos. I get more than 24 hours until the 15 % comes up. 50 hours would be nice but that did not even happen in my black berry with Edge only.
Mine improve 3 fold from sub 7 hours to 24 plus (yes I sleep late so probably the phone gets a 6 hour rest but the enterprise email and text is pushed down even then as I work with folks from Asia and Europe as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do I create a low battery scenario by lowering the input voltage to just a hair above 2.7 volts?
hiltun said:
Is it bad to let my charge over night overnight? I thought it would stop charging when it got full to avoid overhanging.
Sent from my HTC Inspire 4G
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the "charger" that you plug into the wall is just a power supply, the actual "charger" is in the phone, and when it detects the battery is full it stops charging.
Is this the definitive way to do it?
http://hemorrdroids.net/battery-calibration/
Those steps came from here, xda devs.
1. Run the device down until it turns itself off.
2. Turn it back on and wait for it to turn itself off again.
3. Remove the battery for 10 seconds.
4. Replace the battery, but leave the device off.
5. Charge the device until full and then for another hour.
6 **Root users only** Using a Terminal Emulator, type “su” enter, followed by “rm /data/system/batterystats.bin”
7. Run the device’s battery down until it turns itself off.
8 .Turn the device on and charge for at least 8 hours.
9. Unplug the device, turn off, then charge for another hour.
10. Unplug the device, turn on, wait 2 minutes.
11.Turn off again and charge for another hour.
12. Restart and use as normal.
Quite a performance! Does it preserve battery lifespan, or is it more to do with slowing down battery drain and does it really work?
He mentions 2 interesting things:
"Generally charge them before they get lower than 50%". I didn't know that, so it's actually better to charge more often and not let it drain down?
"USB charging is actually better for the battery and you may get up to 1 hours more standby time." So you gain an hour standby but it takes twice as long to charge the phone.
Nice manual
Will try it
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Some will say that its complete nonsense .
Overcharge for 8 hours ??? how does the battery not turn charging off at 100%
Recharge 50% the accepted figure is not to go below 20% to often .
They may be right or wrong their are so many contrasting views on battery charging .
jje
Discharging battery and then reloading it fully, it's the normal procedure for battery calibration for almost all the devices in the world (including computers, etc.).
Step 8 to 11 seems quite a bit strange however.
hm, just seen a different way to calibrate the battery. basically, you drain the battery, take it out for a couple of minutes, put back in, then try to turn it on to make sure it's completely flat.
then you charge it fully, then boot to recovery and wipe battery stats then drain and fully charge. so... which one is more likely to be the better?
that guy also advises to repeat that 12 step, 1-2 day long tedious procedure "every month or so".
it is lunacy honestly speaking
does it work? did he died ?
LOL I dont understand .... I just read in another day that NEVER LET BATTERY GO LOWER THAN 15% and know I read "drain drain drain" Oh welll ...
I also thought that at 100% the charging process stops.
Although this thread is about battery calibration, these questions about battery charging always pop up.
Battery calibration is the process by which you set your device with your battery data.
Every single battery is slightly different. Although there are minimum stantards to every spec of the battery, each battery is different.
Calibrating your battery is nothing more than setting your phone to the real specs of your own battery (since the phone comes configured with the battery factory standards). For example, your phone may be set to use a battery which maximum charge is 1650 mAh, but your battery has a maximum charge of 1625 mAh. That may be within the acceptable factory standard, meaning you have a normal battery, but that also means that your phone will never indicate a 100% charge after you unplug the charger.
If you calibrate that hypothetical battery, you will "tell" your phone that its maximum charge capacity is actually 1625 mAh, meaning from that on your phone's battery indicator will be more accurate.
For that reason, it is necessary to fully discharge and fully recharge your battery for the calibration process, since your device must read the actual specs (minimum charge, maximum charge, charging current, etc) of the installed battery.
I don't know about how many times this full cicle (discharging and recharging) must be performed, but that is the reason why it must be performed for the calibration to succed.
A DIFFERENT THING is the normal discharging and charging process during normal use of the phone.
In this case, you should NEVER let your battery go under 20% and, what few people know, it also should never go over 95%. This stresses the battery and diminish its life time.
Also, and there's a lot of doubts about this, the lower the charging voltage, the slower the charging process, but the longer the battery life.
High charging voltages (like the one used by the charger sold with the phone, which is around 5V) stress the battery, diminishing considerably its life time.
That is true for all lithium-ion batteries!
Therefore it is better to charge your phone through USB (which uses around 4,3V) than to do it using the charger provided with the phone.
You may be asking "If the charging voltage of the charger provided by the manufacturer stresses the battery, why does the manufacturer provide such charger?"
For purely commercial reasons! Higher voltages mean shorter charging cycles, which please the consummer. Moreover, the battery capacity loss with the factory provided charger is around 15-20% a year (considering "normal" to "heavy" use). That is to say that after a year your battery will only reach 80-85% of the maximum charge it used to reach when it was new. And by that time your manufacturer expects you to consider buying a new phone, with more features.
Summing it up:
- calibration is just the process by which you "tell" your phone what the real specs of your battery;
- in normal use, charging your phone through USB is better than doing it with the manufacturer provided charger;
- try not to let your battery charge go under 20% nor above 95%;
- if you're interested, read more about it at batteryuniversity.com
Spin three times in clockwise direction with left middle finger on your nose while blinking your eyes with the phone plugged in.
Jump in the air 3 times.
Unplug phone.
Thats some messed up instructions.
Do you have any idea what kind of strain you're putting on the battery while doing all that?
All you're gonna get is some extra minutes, maybe an hour but is it really worth it because you're just reducing overall battery lifespan by doing that procedure over and over.
Specially when you constantly keep the battery at 4200mV (full charge) for a long time. You're practically killing it by overcharging.
Transmitted from a Galaxy far far away via XDA telepathy.
m2smoe said:
Spin three times in clockwise direction with left middle finger on your nose while blinking your eyes with the phone plugged in.
Jump in the air 3 times.
Unplug phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that made me chuckle
Never done a calibration on a battery and most of the time i even didn't let battery to discarge very much and then load it again. Never had a problem with battery life it last how long it should last every time and i've used that battery for years. So the battery "calibration" are kinda useless.
Matriak31 said:
that made me chuckle
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well then, my job here is done
m2smoe said:
Well then, my job here is done
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is indeed...i should follow you just to have more laughs like that cheers
RenatoN said:
Although this thread is about battery calibration, these questions about battery charging always pop up.
Battery calibration is the process by which you set your device with your battery data.
Every single battery is slightly different. Although there are minimum stantards to every spec of the battery, each battery is different.
Calibrating your battery is nothing more than setting your phone to the real specs of your own battery (since the phone comes configured with the battery factory standards). For example, your phone may be set to use a battery which maximum charge is 1650 mAh, but your battery has a maximum charge of 1625 mAh. That may be within the acceptable factory standard, meaning you have a normal battery, but that also means that your phone will never indicate a 100% charge after you unplug the charger.
If you calibrate that hypothetical battery, you will "tell" your phone that its maximum charge capacity is actually 1625 mAh, meaning from that on your phone's battery indicator will be more accurate.
For that reason, it is necessary to fully discharge and fully recharge your battery for the calibration process, since your device must read the actual specs (minimum charge, maximum charge, charging current, etc) of the installed battery.
I don't know about how many times this full cicle (discharging and recharging) must be performed, but that is the reason why it must be performed for the calibration to succed.
A DIFFERENT THING is the normal discharging and charging process during normal use of the phone.
In this case, you should NEVER let your battery go under 20% and, what few people know, it also should never go over 95%. This stresses the battery and diminish its life time.
Also, and there's a lot of doubts about this, the lower the charging voltage, the slower the charging process, but the longer the battery life.
High charging voltages (like the one used by the charger sold with the phone, which is around 5V) stress the battery, diminishing considerably its life time.
That is true for all lithium-ion batteries!
Therefore it is better to charge your phone through USB (which uses around 4,3V) than to do it using the charger provided with the phone.
You may be asking "If the charging voltage of the charger provided by the manufacturer stresses the battery, why does the manufacturer provide such charger?"
For purely commercial reasons! Higher voltages mean shorter charging cycles, which please the consummer. Moreover, the battery capacity loss with the factory provided charger is around 15-20% a year (considering "normal" to "heavy" use). That is to say that after a year your battery will only reach 80-85% of the maximum charge it used to reach when it was new. And by that time your manufacturer expects you to consider buying a new phone, with more features.
Summing it up:
- calibration is just the process by which you "tell" your phone what the real specs of your battery;
- in normal use, charging your phone through USB is better than doing it with the manufacturer provided charger;
- try not to let your battery charge go under 20% nor above 95%;
- if you're interested, read more about it at batteryuniversity.com
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You should post the source for your info, cause I am seeing a lot of incorrect information in here.
If you guys want to learn about your battery, visit the site Battery University
The OEM replacement battery is worth about $10.
Save yourself the stress....use it...charge it when you need to...if the battery ever fails cough up $10.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
The way I would calibrate my batteries is a bit different. Lithium ion batteries don't need to be drained then charged to full AFAIK, and I even remember reading somewhere that draining it is actually only for NiCad batteries. It used to be relevant when phones were using NiCad but not anymore.
Read: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
As such I have read that the universal way to 'calibrate' batteries is by charging to full, using for a couple of mins and charging again.
What I have been doing is:
1. Charge to full when phone is switched off (doesn't matter if it's from 0% or 99%).
2. Switch on the phone, use for 5 mins.
3. Switch off then charge until full.
4. Repeat step 2 once more
That's it! It seems pretty simple but it seems to have worked for me.
The way i do it is different. Firstly i have the battery calibration app from the market by Nema..then i fully charge my phone and when it says its fully charge i go into the app. There it gives me the instructions on how to calibrate...First i wait till i charge the phone without any interruptions. then click on the app and wait til the battery goes to 4200MV and then i press the calibrate button and then the app does it for me. Then i drain the battery again without any interuptions or breaks during that time and then charge it again once battery dies down and thats it.
there are so many ways being touted on the forums you really dont know which one to go for...but whatever works for each person then who are we to tell someone different just thought i share that
If my battery dies, or gets significally lower capacity after 1 or 2 years of usage, I'll just buy a new one if I plan to keep the phone longer.. Going through these rituals and painstakenly monitor my battery % so that it never goes below 20 % or above 95 % is just not worth it.. Doesn't increase the life THAT much anyway.. I use the phone until I hear the beep for low batt, and from there until I have a charger available.. Most of the time it's before it reaches 10 %, thats good enough for me.. Once in a while it might even go so far that it dies.. Then I charge it till it says 100 %.. Most of the times I plug it when going to bed, and let it charge over night.. This is normal usage and what the battery should be designed to handle, and so far it does..
Dear readers,
I am going to buy a new battery for my HD2 but there is a problem.
I would need to train the new battery and charge it full the first time without turning on the HD2 right?
How can i do this when my HD2 keeps turning on by itself? I even think my phone charges when it is off?
My phone runs ics 4 with magldr.
Can anyone help me out?
Just drain the battery normally and charge it when you sleep?
Draining a new battery will make it unusable???
No it will be fine, Li-ion are quite durable & do not have charge state preferences.
Just buy a new battery & put it in your HD2 & use it normally, if charge very low when first turn it on > plug it in & charge to full.
Then why do people and retailers keep advising me to fully charge batteries before first use?
Cause batteries don't come fully charged?!
But if you charge it first how do you know the battery is fully charged without draining it first since battery stats are incorrect?
Hmmm, i have been told that fully charging it at the first time before first use gives u better battery performance and better battery stats. U are telling me the opposite thing lol? You could see it is full by the constant green led? But if it is like you are telling me then that indication would be false?? Do i get it right?
A new batteries capacity should increase after first few cycles as will devices calibration of the new cell.
The Battery itself is dumb & you can use what method you like really with li-ion cells to charge them.
Only issue sometimes seen is devices recognition of cell power level is not shown correctly.
Have recently issued 20 new cells for our HD2 fleet, staff use them as they needed & without stringent charge routines & all is fine.
A little common sense is all that is needed & maybe calibration reset if a problem appears.
4rjan said:
Hmmm, i have been told that fully charging it at the first time before first use gives u better battery performance and better battery stats. U are telling me the opposite thing lol? You could see it is full by the constant green led? But if it is like you are telling me then that indication would be false?? Do i get it right?
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What if you get a fake/defective battery that only holds 40% capacity and reports that as 80% and you charge the battery to report 100% (which activates the green led). How would you find out that this battery is holding a real 100% charge without draining it first?
With an app that shows u the amount of mAh?
Or is that impossible?
Any app calculating mAh will need a few cycles of the battery to give an accurate estimate. Reading any data direct from a cell is pointless as the cheap cells use chips to display false capacities.
In your circumstances just install new battery & charge while device is on then charge as required & only worry if run time seems very bad.
4rjan said:
With an app that shows u the amount of mAh?
Or is that impossible?
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Now thats major bull. No app can give 100% correct info about battery capacity.
The only one method of correctly defining battery capacity is by using computerized battery analyzer.
If you want to get most of your new battery(Li-ion/poly):
-first make several charge/discharge cycles(after 5-10 you will get desired OEM capacity)
-charge it with wall charger, do not charge through USB
-charge it whenever you can, even if few % are only used
-avoid complete battery discharge(Lithium cells hate complete discharge!)
-keep it at reasonable temperatures, dry
-and don't buy cheap/promising alternatives. Only OEMs are worth buying. Forget about Mugen Magic(proof: www.batteryboss.org)
Battery apps are not always acurrate. They only measure in certain intervals (and then estimate the other stats), which only tells you the current in that instantance of time and the rest is ignored. Also if you undervolt, sometimes the drain measured higher than usual and the battery percentage becomes erractic (ie increasing after a reboot) that will easily change the estimated capacity.